Cosmetic or dermatological preparation containing an aqueous and a lipophilic fish egg extract

Abstract

A cosmetic or dermatological preparation that contains an aqueous and a lipophilic fish egg extract for replumping skin; for increasing the incorporation of triglycerides in adipocytes; for increasing the expression of laminin, preferably of laminin-5 and most preferably of laminin-5 β sub-unit; and/or for maintaining the skin elasticity and/or resilience of human skin.

Claims

1. A cosmetic or dermatological preparation, wherein the preparation is formulated to be suitable for topical application for skin and comprises (I) an aqueous fish egg extract obtained by a method comprising: (a1) suspending fish eggs in an extraction mixture comprising an oil phase and an aqueous phase, the oil phase comprising capric/caprylic acid triglycerides, (b1) homogenizing the suspension mixture obtained in (a1), and (c1) isolating the aqueous phase of the homogenized mixture obtained in (b1) to obtain the aqueous fish egg extract; and (II) a lipophilic fish egg extract obtained by a method comprising: (a2) suspending fish eggs in an extraction mixture comprising an oil phase and an aqueous phase, the oil phase comprising capric/caprylic acid triglycerides, (b2) homogenizing the suspension mixture obtained in (a2), and (c2) isolating the oil phase of the homogenized mixture obtained in (b2) to obtain the lipophilic fish egg extract.

2. The preparation of claim 1, wherein for producing the hydrophilic fish egg extract (I) and/or for producing the lipophilic egg extract (II), the oil phase comprises caprylic/capric triglycerides in a concentration of at least 90 wt %, based on a total weight of the oil phase.

3. The preparation of claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase for producing the aqueous fish egg extract (I) and for producing the lipophilic fish egg extract (II) comprises from 50 mM to 200 mM phosphate and from 0.1 wt % to 0.3 wt % EDTA, based on a total weight of the aqueous phase.

4. The preparation of claim 1, wherein for producing the aqueous fish egg extract (I) and for producing the lipophilic fish egg extract (II) a ratio by weight of the fish eggs in relation to the aqueous phase of the respective suspension mixture is from 1:2 to 2:1 and for producing the aqueous fish egg extract (I) and for producing the lipophilic fish egg extract (II) a ratio by weight of the fish eggs in relation to the oil phase of the respective suspension mixture is from 1:0.2 to 1:0.4.

5. The preparation of claim 1, wherein the fish eggs for producing the aqueous fish egg extract (I) and the fish eggs for producing the lipophilic fish egg extract (II) comprise one or more of eggs of salmon, eggs of trout or eggs of sturgeon.

6. The preparation of claim 1, wherein the fish eggs for producing the aqueous fish egg extract (I) and the eggs for producing the lipophilic fish egg extract (II) comprise eggs of white sturgeon and/or eggs of Siberian sturgeon.

7. The preparation of claim 1, wherein the aqueous fish egg extract (I) comprises DNA constituents in a concentration of from 0.02 wt. % to 0.1 wt %, proteins in a concentration of from 5 wt % to 15 wt %, and carbohydrates in a concentration of from 0.5 wt % to 1 wt %, based on a total weight of the aqueous fish egg extract (I).

8. The preparation of claim 1, wherein the aqueous fish egg extract (I) is present in a concentration of from 0.0001 wt % to 10 wt %, and the lipophilic fish egg extract (II) is present in a concentration of from 0.001 wt % to 10 wt %, each based on a total weight of the preparation.

9. The preparation of claim 1, wherein the aqueous fish egg extract (I), prior to incorporation into the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in a weight ratio of from 1:0.5 to 1:1.5, is diluted with an aqueous glycine solution comprising from 1 wt % to 2 wt % of glycine, based on a total weight of the aqueous glycine solution.

10. The preparation of claim 1, wherein a concentration of monounsaturated fatty acids in the lipophilic fish egg extract (II) is from 12 wt % to 25 wt %, based on a total weight of all fatty acids contained in the lipophilic fish egg extract (II).

11. The preparation of claim 1, wherein the preparation further comprises at least one alkylamidothiazole.

12. The preparation of claim 1, wherein the preparation further comprises at least one of ethylhexylglycerin, phenoxyethanol and phenethyl alcohol.

13. The preparation of claim 1, wherein a weight ratio of the aqueous fish egg extract (I) and the lipophilic fish egg extract (II) is from 20:1 to 1:1.

14. The preparation of claim 1, wherein the preparation further comprises at least one O/W emulsifier having an HLB value of from greater than 8 to 18.

15. The preparation of claim 1, wherein the preparation is present as an emulsion.

16. The preparation of claim 1, wherein the preparation is present as at least one of an ointment, a foundation, a toner, a cream, a gel, a mask, a foam preparation or an aerosol preparation.

17. The preparation of claim 1, wherein the preparation comprises from 60 wt % to 80 wt. % of water, based on a total weight of the preparation.

18. The preparation of claim 1, wherein the preparation further comprises one or more rheology modifiers.

19. The preparation of claim 1, wherein the preparation increases the expression of a gene for laminin-5 in keratinocytes compared to the aqueous fish egg extract (I) and the lipophilic fish egg extract (II) individually.

20. A method of plumping skin and/or increasing storage of triglycerides in adipocytes and/or increasing expression of laminin and/or preserving elasticity and/or expansibility of human skin, wherein the method comprises applying to skin an effective amount of the preparation of claim 1.

Description

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING

(1) In the accompanying drawing,

(2) FIG. 1 graphically represents the results of the comparative testing described below in terms of the release of laminin-5 as measure of the expression of the gene for laminin-5 in keratinocytes

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EMBODIMENTS OF THE INVENTION

EXAMPLES

(3) The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. Unless indicated otherwise, all amounts, proportions and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations. (a) Production of an aqueous fish egg extract (I) from white sturgeon (Acipenser transmontanus) To produce a fish egg extract according to the invention, fish eggs were removed from white sturgeon (exclusively fish eggs from breeding stocks were used) and borax was added. The production of the aqueous fish egg extract took place within 24 hours after removal. In addition, an oil phase was prepared consisting of 99.98 wt % caprylic/capric triglycerides, 0.01 wt % tocopherol and 0.01 wt % BHT. The additionally provided aqueous phase consisted of: 100 mM phosphates (from sodium hydrogenphosphate); 1 wt % phenoxyethanol; 1 wt % of the commercial product Sensivia Pa 20 from Schülke & Mayr, containing phenethyl alcohol and ethylhexylglycerin; 0.2 wt % EDTA; and Water. The provided oil phase and the provided aqueous phase were combined and then the fish eggs were suspended in this mixture. The weight ratio of the oil phase to the fish eggs was 0.3:1 and the weight ratio of the aqueous phase to the fish eggs was 1:1. The mixture obtained from the oil phase, the aqueous phase and the fish eggs was then homogenized using a Manton-Gaulin homogenizer. The homogenate obtained was then centrifuged at 2000 G for one hour. This was followed by manual phase separation, the water phase representing the inventive aqueous fish egg extract (I). To improve the shelf life of the aqueous fish egg extract (I) obtained, this was mixed in a ratio of 1:1 with an aqueous glycine solution consisting of 1.5 wt % glycine, 1.5 wt % sodium chloride, 1.5 wt % phenoxyethanol, 1.0 wt % polysorbate 80 and water. Subsequently, filtration was carried out to improve the purity. The mixture obtained of aqueous fish egg extract (II) and glycine solution is referred to in the following example formulations as aqueous fish egg extract solution from (a). (b) Production of a lipophilic fish egg extract from white sturgeon (Acipenser transmontanus) To produce a fish egg extract according to the invention, fish eggs were removed from white sturgeon (exclusively fish eggs from breeding stocks were used) and borax was added. The production of the lipophilic fish egg extract took place within 24 hours after removal. In addition, an oil phase was prepared consisting of 99.98 wt % caprylic/capric triglycerides, 0.01 wt % tocopherol and 0.01 wt % BHT. The additionally provided aqueous phase consisted of: 100 mM phosphates (from sodium hydrogenphosphate); 1 wt % phenoxyethanol; 1 wt % of the commercial product Sensivia Pa 20 from Schülke & Mayr, containing phenethyl alcohol and ethylhexylglycerin; 0.2 wt % EDTA; and Water. The provided oil phase and the provided aqueous phase were combined and then the fish eggs were suspended in this mixture. The weight ratio of the oil phase to the fish eggs was 0.3:1 and the weight ratio of the aqueous phase to the fish eggs was 1:1. The mixture obtained from the oil phase, the aqueous phase and the fish eggs was then homogenized using a Manton-Gaulin homogenizer. The homogenate obtained was then centrifuged at 2000 G for one hour. This was followed by manual phase separation, the oil phase representing the lipophilic fish egg extract (II) according to the invention. To improve the shelf life of the lipophilic fish egg extract (II) obtained, it was dried with sodium sulfate and then filtered to improve the purity, in order to remove the sodium sulfate and other insoluble constituents. (c) Analysis of the aqueous fish egg extract (I) of white sturgeon (Acipenser transmontanus) from (a) The analysis of the water phase of the homogenate from (a), i.e. the aqueous fish egg extract (I) according to the invention before addition of the glycine solution, was able to determine the following constituents of the extract: Proteins=9 wt % DNA=0.6 wt % Carbohydrates=0.84 wt % Vitamin B2 (riboflavin)=376 μg/100 g Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid)=2.40 mg/100 g Vitamin PP (niacin/amide)=6.12 mg/100 g Wherein the wt % information is based on the total weight of the water phase of the homogenate from (a), i.e. the aqueous fish egg extract (I). (d) Analysis of the lipophilic fish egg extract (II) of white sturgeon (Acipenser transmontanus) from (b) The analysis of the oil phase of the homogenate from (b), i.e. the lipophilic fish egg extract (II) according to the invention, showed that the proportion of saturated fatty acids in the lipophilic fish egg extract is 23.1 wt % based on the total weight of all the fatty acids present. In addition, it was found that the proportion of monounsaturated fatty acids in the lipophilic fish egg extract (II) is 41.7 wt % based on the total weight of all the fatty acids present. In addition, it was found that the proportion of polyunsaturated fatty acids in the lipophilic fish egg extract (II) is 35.2 wt % based on the total weight of all the fatty acids present. In addition, it was found that the proportion of omega-3 fatty acids in the lipophilic fish egg extract (II) is 20.3 wt % based on the total weight of all the fatty acids present. In addition, it was found that the proportion of omega-6 fatty acids in the lipophilic fish egg extract (II) is 14.8 wt % based on the total weight of all the fatty acids present. The proportion of phenoxyethanol is in the range of 0.1 to 1.5 wt % based on the total weight of the lipophilic fish egg extract (II). (e) Production of an aqueous and a lipophilic fish egg extract according to the invention in a process from eggs of the Siberian sturgeon (Acipenser baerii) To produce an aqueous fish egg extract (I) and a lipophilic fish egg extract (II), fish eggs were removed in a process from Siberian sturgeon (exclusively fish eggs from breeding stocks were used) and borax was added. The production of the aqueous fish egg extract (I) and the lipophilic fish egg extract (II) took place within 24 hours after removal. In addition, an oil phase was prepared consisting of 99.98 wt % caprylic/capric triglycerides, 0.01 wt % tocopherol and 0.01 wt % BHT. The additionally provided aqueous phase consisted of: 100 mM phosphates (from sodium hydrogenphosphate); 1 wt % phenoxyethanol; 1 wt % of the commercial product Sensivia Pa 20 from Schülke & Mayr, containing phenethyl alcohol and ethylhexylglycerin; 0.2 wt % EDTA; and Water. The provided oil phase and the provided aqueous phase were combined and then the fish eggs were suspended in this mixture. The weight ratio of the oil phase to the fish eggs was 0.3:1 and the weight ratio of the aqueous phase to the fish eggs was 1:1. The mixture obtained from the oil phase, the aqueous phase and the fish eggs was then homogenized using a Manton-Gaulin homogenizer. The homogenate obtained was then centrifuged at 2000 G for one hour. This was followed by manual phase separation, the water phase representing the inventive aqueous fish egg extract (I) and the oil phase representing the inventive lipophilic fish egg extract (II). To improve the shelf life of the aqueous fish egg extract (I) obtained, this was mixed in a ratio of 1:1 with an aqueous glycine solution consisting of 1.5 wt % glycine, 1.5 wt % sodium chloride, 1.5 wt % phenoxyethanol, 1.0 wt % polysorbate 80 and water. Subsequently, filtration was carried out to improve the purity. The mixture obtained of aqueous fish egg extract and glycine solution is referred to in the following example formulations as aqueous fish egg extract solution from (e). To improve the shelf life of the lipophilic fish egg extract (II) obtained, it was dried with sodium sulfate and then filtered to improve the purity, in order to remove the sodium sulfate and other insoluble constituents. (f) Efficacy study relating to the expression of laminin In order to verify the advantageous efficacy of the invention, an investigation was carried out regarding the extent to which the extracts increase the expression of the gene for laminin-5 in keratinocytes (HaCaT). For this purpose the cells were incubated for 6 h with the extracts to be tested. The entire RNA was subsequently extracted with a GenElute Mammalian Total RNA Purification Kit (SIGMA) and worked up according to instructions. The quantitative determination of the gene for laminin-5 was carried out by RT-PCR (Real Time Quantitative PCR) with the respective specific primer: LAM5-β F: 5′AGACCTATGATGCGGACCT3′ and LAM5-β R: 5′GAAGACATCTCCAGCCTCA3′. Three comparative measurements were conducted, with the first containing 0.01 wt % of the aqueous fish egg extract (I) from (a), the second containing 0.1 wt % of the lipophilic fish egg extract (II) from (b) and the thirs containing in total 0.001 wt % of the mixture of the aqueous fish egg extract (I) from (a) and the lipophilic fish egg extract (II) from (b) in the mixing ratio of 10:1. The measurement results obtained are given in FIG. 1. The stated measurement values are factors and always relate to the measurement with the lipophilic fish egg extract (II). That is to say that the determined absolute amount of laminin-5 of each measurement is divided by the absolute amount of laminin-5 from the measurement with the lipophilic fish egg extract (II) from (b). As can be seen, despite the low concentration, the use of the inventive mixture of the aqueous fish egg extract (I) from (a) and the lipophilic fish egg extract (II) from (b) leads to a synergistic increase in the expression of the gene for laminin-5 (β subunit).
Example Formulations:

(4) TABLE-US-00003 Example number 1 2 3 4 5 PEG-100 stearate 2.0 0.9 PEG-20 glyceryl stearate 1.1 PEG-40 stearates 1.0 Ceteareth-25 0.5 Steareth-100 0.5 2.0 Ceteth-20 1.0 Myristyl Myristate 1.0 1.0 Glyceryl Stearate 1.1 2.0 Stearyl Alcohol 2.0 1.0 Cetearyl Alcohol 4.0 2.5 Cetyl alcohol 1.0 3.0 Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides 2.0 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) 2.0 2.0 Butter C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 3.0 2.0 3.5 Butylene glycol dicaprylate/ 1.0 1.5 dicaprate Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 1.0 1.0 2.0 2.0 Ethylhexyl Cocoate 3.0 1.5 Octyldodecanol 1.0 Paraffinum Liquidum 1.0 Cera Microcristallina 2.0 1.0 1.5 Cyclomethicone 4.1 1.0 4.0 3.5 5.0 Dimethicone 2.3 1.0 1.2 Dicaprylyl Ether 1.0 4.0 2.0 Dicarprylyl Carbonate 2.8 N-(4-(2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) 0.2 0.1 0.05 0.3 0.4 thiazol-2-yl)-isobutyramide Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 4.0 3.0 5.0 2.0 2.5 Disodium Phenyl 1.0 1.0 1.5 0.5 2.0 Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic 2.0 3.0 1.0 1.5 1.5 Acid Ethylhexyl Triazone 2.0 Octocrylene 2.5 Ethylhexyl Salicylate 1.0 Ubiquinone (Q10) 0.05 aqueous fish egg extract solution 0.4 0.2 0.16 0.4 0.1 from (a). (50% aqueous fish egg extract (I) + 50% glycine solution) Lipophilic fish egg extract after 0.2 0.1 0.1 0.3 0.05 work-up from (b) Biotin 0.04 Retinyl Palmitate 0.1 Thioctic Acid 0.1 Tocopheryl Acetate 1.0 Sodium Citrate 0.1 Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 0.1 0.1 Trisodium EDTA 0.1 Phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Butylparaben 0.6 0.3 0.2 0.3 0.3 Alcohol Denat. 2.0 Xanthan Gum 0.1 Carbomer 0.05 0.1 0.1 Polyacrylamide 0.2 Glycerol 10 6.0 6.5 7.5 8.0 Butylene Glycol 2.0 1.0 Fillers/additives (distarch 0.1 1.0 0.2 0.5 0.05 phosphate, SiO.sub.2, BHT, talc, aluminum stearate) Fragrance qs qs qs qs qs Aqua to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 Example number 6 7 8 9 10 PEG-50 stearate 2.5 1.0 PEG-40 stearate 1.0 1.0 0.5 PEG-8 stearate 1.0 PEG-8 Distearate 1.0 Glyceryl Stearate 3.0 Sorbitan Stearate 1.0 Steareth-21 2.0 1.0 Steareth-2 1.0 Cetearyl Glucoside 2.0 Myristyl Myristate 1.0 Behenyl Alcohol 1.0 2.0 Stearyl Alcohol 5.0 Cetearyl Alcohol 3.0 2.0 1.0 Cetyl Alcohol 1.0 Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides 1.0 1 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) 2.5 Butter C12-15 Alkylbenzoate 2.0 5.0 2.5 Butylene glycol dicaprylate/ 1.5 2.0 dicaprate Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 1.0 1.5 3.5 Ethylhexyl Cocoate 2.0 Octyldodecanol 1.0 1.5 Paraffinum Liquidum 1.0 Cera Microcristallina 1.8 Cyclomethicone 4.0 3.5 2.0 5.0 2.0 Dimethicone 2.0 1.5 Dicaprylyl Ether 2.0 Dicarprylyl Carbonate 2.0 3.0 3.5 N-(4-(2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) 0.1 0.15 0.25 0.1 0.5 thiazol-2-yl)-isobutyramide Polydecene 4 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 2.0 3.0 4.5 5.0 4.2 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic 0.5 2.0 2.0 3.3 1.0 Acid Disodium Phenyl 1.0 1.0 1.5 2.3 0.5 Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate Ubiquinone (Q10) 0.03 aqueous fish egg extract solution 0.06 0.4 0.12 0.35 0.25 from (e). (50% aqueous fish egg extract + 50% glycine solution) Lipophilic fish egg extract after 0.03 0.35 0.06 0.3 0.25 work-up from (e) Biotin 0.02 Retinyl Palmitate 0.2 Tocopheryl Acetate 1.0 0.5 Ascorbic Acid 0.05 Trisodium EDTA 0.2 0.1 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.4 0.5 0.3 Butylparaben 0.1 0.4 0.6 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.2 0.2 0.1 0.4 Alcohol denat. 8.0 3.0 Xanthan Gum 0.1 Carbomer 0.2 0.1 0.1 Polyacrylamide 0.2 Glycerol 10 5.0 6.0 4.0 7.0 Butylene Glycol 2.0 Additives (distarch phosphate, 0.03 0.05 3.0 SiO.sub.2, talc, BHT aluminum stearate) Fragrance qs qs qs qs qs Aqua to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 Example number 11 12 13 14 15 PEG-100 stearate 1.4 0.1 1.2 Glyceryl Stearate 1.4 0.5 0.2 1.0 0.9 Ceteareth-100 2 3.1 2.1 Sorbitan Stearate 2.3 2.5 Polysorbate 60 0.1 0.3 0.8 0.7 Polysorbate 80 0.8 0.5 0.1 Sorbitan Isostearate 0.1 0.25 0.05 Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed 3.0 1.2 2.7 Butter Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) 2.5 3.5 1.9 Butter Jojoba Esters 2.0 2.5 1.3 0.5 1.0 Beeswax 1.0 0.2 0.8 1.6 2.0 Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil 0.5 0.1 Persea Gratissima Oil 0.7 0.3 0.5 Olea Europaea Fruit Oil 0.1 0.6 0.1 Cyclomethicone 3.6 0.1 0.1 1.2 Dimethicone 5.4 4.5 5.0 3.6 Squalane 3.0 1.9 Carbomer 0.2 0.4 0.15 Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium 1.7 0.1 1.0 2.0 0.1 Acryloydimethyl Taurate Copolymer Polymethyl Methacrylate 0.5 0.6 0.1 Dimethicone Crosspolymer 0.6 0.3 0.25 Pullulan 0.5 0.4 Carrageenan 0.2 0.3 0.7 0.3 Caprylyl Glycol 0.3 0.1 0.25 Methylpropanediol 1.3 Glycerol 3.1 1.7 4.0 2.8 3.5 Sorbitol 0.1 Propanediol 2.0 1.9 Propylene Glycol 0.1 0.1 0.2 0.3 Pentylene Glycol 0.1 0.5 Butylene Glycol 0.2 0.3 0.2 Tocopherol Acetate 0.5 0.2 0.45 0.35 Ubiquinones 0.1 0.2 0.15 Retinyl Palmitate 0.15 0.15 Biotin 0.05 aqueous fish egg extract solution 0.2 0.1 0.3 0.09 0.4 from (a). (50% aqueous fish egg extract + 50% glycine solution) Lipophilic fish egg extract after 0.2 0.1 0.3 0.5 0.4 work-up from (b). Disodium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Triethanolamine 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.3 0.5 0.3 0.45 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.2 0.1 0.05 Titanium Dioxide 0.3 0.1 0.2 Tapioca Starch 0.05 Talc 0.05 Fragrance qs qs qs qs qs Aqua to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100