COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS IN THE FORM OF COMPACT POWDERS, MANUFACTURING PROCESSES AND USES THEREOF

Abstract

A cosmetic composition in a form of compact powder may include (percentages by weight based on total weight of the composition): (a) 30-90% of at least one powder filler; (b) 3-30% of at least one fatty phase having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 C.; (c) 1-20% of at least one water-soluble polymer; and/or (d) 3-30% of at least one surfactant that is liquid at a temperature of 25 C.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition in a form of compact powder, the composition comprising (percentages by weight based on total weight of the composition): (a) 30-90% of at least one powder filler; (b) 3-30% of at least one fatty phase having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 C.; (c) 1-20% of at least one water-soluble polymer; and (d) 3-30% of at least one surfactant that is liquid at a temperature of 25 C.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one surfactant has a melting point less than or equal to 30 C.

3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one fatty phase is selected from: wax, metal soap of a C.sub.8-C.sub.22 fatty acid, or mixtures thereof.

4. The composition of claim 3, wherein the metal soap of the C.sub.8-C.sub.22 fatty acid is selected from: zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium laurate, zinc myristate, magnesium myristate or mixtures thereof.

5. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one water-soluble polymer is selected from: polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymer, polyvinyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

6. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one water-soluble polymer is selected from polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymer or mixtures thereof having an average molecular weight (weight average M.sub.W) greater than or equal to 10,000 grams/mole (g/mol) and less than or equal to 100,000 g/mol.

7. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one surfactant is a non-ionic surfactant, cationic surfactant, anionic surfactant, amphiphilic surfactant or a mixture thereof.

8. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one liquid surfactant is a non-ionic surfactant selected from: sorbitan fatty acid ethers or esters; polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ethers or esters; polyoxyethylenglycol ethers or esters; polypropoxyethylene glycol ethers or esters; sugar ethers or esters; polyglycerin ethers or esters; glycerol ethers or esters; N-acylated amino acid esters; alkylpolyglucosides; or mixtures thereof.

9. The composition of claim 1, wherein the composition comprises at least one ester of an N-acylated amino acid of formula (I):
R.sub.1(CO)N(R.sub.2)CH(R.sub.3)(CH.sub.2).sub.n(CO)OR.sub.4(I) wherein: C is carbon, H is hydrogen, N is nitrogen O is oxygen, n is 0 or an integer equal to 1 or 2, R.sub.1 represents a linear or branched C.sub.5-C.sub.21 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C.sub.5-C.sub.21 alkenyl radical, R.sub.2 represents a hydrogen atom or C.sub.1-C.sub.3 alkyl group, R.sub.3 represents a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl radical, R.sub.4 represents a C.sub.1-C.sub.10 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C.sub.2-C.sub.10 alkenyl radical, or a sterol group, and the N(R.sub.2)CH(R.sub.3)(CH.sub.2).sub.n(CO) portion is selected from the following amino acids: valine, leucine, isoleucine, serine, threonine, proline, hydroxyproline, -alanine, aminobutyric acid, amino caproic acid, sarcosine, or N-methyl--alanine.

10. The composition of claim 9, wherein at least one surfactant of formula (I) is isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate.

11. The composition of claim 1, further comprising at least one pigment.

12. The composition of claim 1, wherein the composition is in self-supporting form.

13. A method for decorating and/or cosmetically caring a keratin surface, the method comprising: (a) wetting at least one surface of the composition of claim 1 so as to form, on the at least one surface of the composition, at least one fluid phase wherein at least one fraction of the powder forming the composition is dispersed therein; and (b) applying the at least one fluid phase to the keratin surface.

14. The method of claim 1, wherein the application step (b) comprises rubbing the composition on the keratin surface so as to put the wetted surface comprising the fluid phase in contact with the keratin surface.

15. The method of claim 13, wherein the at least one fluid phase is drawn from the at least one wetted surface using an applicator and is applied to the keratin surface using the applicator.

16. A process for preparing the composition in the form of the compact powder of claim 1, the process comprising: mixing at least the following components to form a powdery mixture: (a) 30-90% of at least one powder filler, (b) 3-30% of at least one fatty phase having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 C., (c) 1-20% of at least one water-soluble polymer, and (d) 3-30% of at least one surfactant that is liquid at a temperature of 25 C.; and pressing the powdery mixture to form the cosmetic composition in the form of the compact powder.

17. A device, comprising: at least one composition of claim 1; and at least one applicator.

18. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one water-soluble polymer is selected from polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymer, or mixtures thereof having an average molecular weight (weight average M.sub.W) greater than or equal to 20,000 grams/mole (g/mol) and less than or equal to 50,000 g/mol.

19. The composition of claim 9, wherein at least one surfactant of formula (I) comprises isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate.

20. The composition of claim 1, further comprising: at least one pigment in an amount greater than or equal to 1% and less than or equal to 50% of a total weight of (a), (b), (c) and (d).

Description

EXAMPLE

[0144] A cosmetic composition was prepared according to the present invention, that can be used as eyeshadow for the face having the following weight percentage composition (base composition):

TABLE-US-00001 (a) micronized talc 72.7% (average diameter of the powders (dv50): 10 m) (b) magnesium stearate 11.4% (c) PVP K-30 (Ashland) 5.7% (d1) polysorbate-20 6.8% (non-ionic surfactant, HLB about 17, TEGO-SML-20 (Degussa)) (d2) isopropyl N-lauroylsarcosinate 3.4% (non-ionic surfactant, ELDEW SL-205 (Ajinomoto))

[0145] The composition also contained a mixture of pigments in powder form (CI77510, CI77742, CI77007) in an overall quantity of 9.5% by weight with respect to the weight of the base composition, and preservatives in a quantity equal to 4.1% by weight with respect to the weight of the base composition.

[0146] The composition was prepared by mixing the solid components in a mixing mill at about 3,300 rpm for 2 minutes. At the end of the mixing, the liquid components, i.e. the two non-ionic surfactants, were introduced into the mixing mill. The mixing was re-started and prolonged for 4 minutes.

[0147] The composition was then discharged from the mixing mill and sieved in screens having 25 mesh sieves. The sieved powder was compacted into disc-shaped tablets (1.7 g each) using a hydraulic tablet press and applying a pressure of 40 bar.

[0148] The tablets were subjected to the drop test to measure the cohesion of the composition.

[0149] The drop test was effected on 10 tablets (diameter 18 mm, height 5 mm) as follows. Each tablet was dropped from a height of 30 cm onto a steel surface. The operation was then repeated until the breakage of the tablet after being dropped.

[0150] For the purposes of the present invention, the cohesion degree of the composition is considered sufficient (drop test passed) if the tablet resists at least three consecutive drops without breaking.

[0151] In the case of the tablets according to the present invention, breakage was observed on average after the 6.sup.th-7.sup.th drop.