ASSEMBLY AND PROCESS FOR MAKING UP A KERATIN MATERIAL

Abstract

The present invention relates to an assembly for making up a keratin material, in particular the nails, the lips, the eyelids, the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the contour of the eyes, comprising at least: a first composition intended to be applied to the keratin material, the first composition being a composition that is capable of forming a reflective coat, a second composition intended to be applied onto the first composition, said second composition being a translucent and coloured composition. The present invention also relates to a makeup process.

Claims

1. An assembly for making up a keratin material, the assembly comprising: a first composition capable of forming a reflective coat; and a second composition being a translucent and colored composition.

2. The assembly of claim 1, wherein the first composition comprises at least one reflective metal particle.

3. The assembly of claim 2, wherein the at least one reflective metal particle is selected from the group consisting of a pure metal particle, a composite metal particle, a multilayer interference pigment, and a mixture thereof.

4. The assembly of claim 2, wherein the a least one reflective metal particle is present in a total content ranging from 2% to 40% by weight, relative to a total weight of the first composition.

5. The assembly of claim 1, wherein the first composition is capable of forming a color selected from the group consisting of white, pink, metallic, and pastel.

6. The assembly of claim 1, wherein the first composition has a contrast ratio CR of greater than or equal to 75%, a chromaticity C* of less than or equal to 40, and optionally a luminance L* of greater than or equal to 60.

7. The assembly of claim 1, wherein one of the first composition comprises at least one volatile solvent.

8. The assembly of claim 1, wherein the first composition comprises at least one film-forming polymer present in a total content ranging from 1% to 50% by weight relative to a total weight of the first composition.

9. The assembly of claim 1, wherein the first composition comprises at least one plasticizer.

10. The assembly of claim 1, wherein the second composition comprises at least one dyestuff selected from the group consisting of a colored organic pigment, a colored lake, a colored mineral pigment, a colored hybrid pigment, a colored florescent agent and a mixture thereof.

11. The assembly of claim 1, wherein the second composition comprises at least one dyestuff, present in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight relative to a total weight of the second composition.

12. The assembly of claim 1, wherein the second composition has a contrast ratio CR ranging from 15% to 70%, a chromaticity C* ranging from 30 to 90, and optionally a luminance L* of greater than or equal to 40.

13. The assembly of claim 1, wherein the second composition comprises at least one volatile solvent.

14. The assembly of claim 1, wherein the second composition comprises at least one film-forming polymer present in a total content ranging from 1% to 50% by weight relative to a total weight of the second composition.

15. The assembly of claim 1, wherein the second composition comprises at least one plasticizer, present in a total content ranging from 1% to 15% relative to a total weight of the second composition.

16. A process for making up a keratin material, the process comprising applying the assembly of claim 1 to the keratin material.

17. The assembly of claim 1, which is adapted to function as an assembly for making up keratin materials selected from the group consisting of nails, lips, eyelids, eyelashes, eyebrows and a contour of the eyes.

18. The process of claim 16, comprising: applying the first composition to the keratin material to form a reflective coat; and then applying the second composition onto the first composition.

Description

EXAMPLES

[0277] Several examples of first composition (base coat) and of second composition (coat covering the base coat) in accordance with the invention were prepared and compared with compositions outside the invention, especially with regard to: [0278] contrast ratio, [0279] luminance, [0280] chromaticity,
the measuring protocols of which have been given previously in this description, and evaluated with the naked eye.

[0281] Examples and Results

[0282] Several examples of preparation of first composition (known as the base coat) and of second composition (known as the top coat or covering coat) in accordance with the invention, for obtaining a depth effect of the base coat after application of one or two covering coats onto the base coat, were performed.

[0283] Examples of Nail Varnishes

[0284] Examples of first composition and counter-example

TABLE-US-00001 Composition Composition 2 Composition Comparative 1 according according 3 according composition Ingredients with to the to the to the outside the percentage content invention invention invention invention Ethyl acetate qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Nitrocellulose 15 15 15 15 Disteardimonium 1 1 1 1 hectorite (and) propylene carbonate (Bentone Gel ISD V from Elementis) Tributyl citrate 6 6 6 6 Alumina-titanium oxide 4.3 Bismuth oxychloride 7 5.2 Aluminium powder 0 10.5 TiO2 2 Yellow 6 lake 4 Red 28 Lake 4

[0285] Preparation Process

[0286] A coloured nail varnish is prepared by mixing, at 25 C. with suitable stirring, a film-forming fluid base (nitrocellulose) and the plasticizer (tributyl citrate) in the solvent medium (ethyl acetate); where appropriate concerning the pigments, they are optimally preground, unlike the other dyestuffs such as the nacres directly added to the base in the presence of the thixotropic agent (Bentone).

[0287] Optical Result

TABLE-US-00002 Com- position 1 Composition Composition Comparative according 2 according 3 according composition to the to the to the outside the Parameters invention invention invention invention Contrast ratio 89.4 89.9 98.7 82.6 (CR) Luminance (L*) 94.95 95.7 90.3 51.6 Chromaticity 2.1 1.7 0.9 62.5 (C*) Characterization Opaque Opaque Opaque Covering of the base coat lacquered nacreous aluminium light red deposit white white

[0288] The first compositions 1, 2 and 3 according to the invention constitute a reflective base, unlike the comparative composition outside the invention, which is insufficiently luminous and is too coloured.

[0289] Examples of Second Composition and Counter-Example

TABLE-US-00003 Comparative Composition 1 Composition 2 composition Ingredients with according to the according to the outside the percentage content invention invention invention Ethyl acetate qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Nitrocellulose 15 15 15 Tributyl citrate 6 6 6 D&C Red 7 Lake 0.18 0.05 1.3- D&C Red 6 Lake 0 0.5 2 Red 34 Lake 0.02 TiO2 0.3

[0290] The process for preparing the second compositions is the same as that described with reference to the first compositions.

[0291] Optical Result

TABLE-US-00004 Composition 2 Comparative Composition 1 according composition according to the to the outside the Parameters invention invention invention Contrast ratio (CR) 28.6 32.2 76.8 Luminance (L*) 56.1 53.6 39.2 Chromaticity (C*) 62 69 53.8 Characterization of the Translucent Translucent red Opaque red base coat deposit fuchsia (covering coat)

[0292] The second compositions 1 and 2 according to the invention constitute a translucent and coloured covering, unlike the comparative composition outside the invention, which is opaque.

[0293] Other examples of second compositions in accordance with the invention were prepared and allowed the Applicant to place the optimum optical result limits:

TABLE-US-00005 Ingredients with Composition Composition Composition percentage 3 according to 4 according to 5 according to content the invention the invention the invention Ethyl acetate qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Nitrocellulose 15 15 15 Tributyl citrate 6 6 6 D&C Red 6 lake 0.18 Ferric 0.002 0.02 ammonium ferrocyanide D&C Yellow 5 0.22 Lake Red 34 Lake 0.11

[0294] Optical Result

TABLE-US-00006 Composition 4 Composition according to 3 according Composition 4 the invention Composition 5 to the according to the (spreading 2 according to the Parameters invention invention 300 m) invention Contrast ratio (CR) 23 37 67.9 25.4 Luminance (L*) 87.7 47.3 36.3 63.4 Chromaticity (C*) 48.1 51.8 43.2 60.9 Characterization of Translucent Translucent Translucent Translucent the covering coat green-yellow violet violet orange (spreading (spreading to a according to the thickness of protocol of the 600 m) description at 300 m)

[0295] Result of the Successive Application of the Base Coat to the Nail Followed by the Covering Coat onto the Base Coat

[0296] When a coat of first composition according to the invention, or base coat, such as the first composition 1, is applied to a nail, and a coat of second composition, or covering coat, such as the second composition 2, is then applied onto the base coat, the translucent and coloured nature of the covering coat applied onto this reflective base coat makes it possible to observe a surprising and unexpected depth effect of said base coat. Generally, only one base coat is applied, but one or two covering coats may be applied onto said base coat so as to vary this depth effect.

[0297] In contrast, by applying a first comparative composition outside the invention and then a second composition according to the invention, such a depth effect is not obtained. Similarly, by applying a first composition 1 according to the invention and then a second comparative composition outside the invention, such a depth effect is not obtained.

[0298] To illustrate now a modification of the lightness of the colour of the assembly obtained while at the same time allowing an intense colour to be obtained, a base coat according to the invention of first composition 2 according to the invention was applied, followed, respectively, by one and two covering coats of second composition 1 according to the invention, and a reduction in luminance may then be observed while at the same time maintaining high chromaticity.

[0299] Optical Result

TABLE-US-00007 First composition 2 according to the invention First composition 2 covered with a second according to the composition 1 according invention covered to the invention with a second (spreading 300 m composition 1 according to the protocol according to the defined in the patent invention (spreading Parameters application) 600 m) Contrast ratio (CR) 94.9 93.5 Luminance (L*) 56.2 47.6 Chromaticity (C*) 64.9 64.3 Characterization of Intense fuchsia Deep intense fuchsia: the covering coat the shade is less light, deposit but still maintains strong chromaticity

[0300] Nail varnishes are not the only fields of application of the present invention: this invention is thus transposable to other technical fields, such as lip products, such as lipsticks, or eye products, such as liners.

[0301] Examples of Lip Products

[0302] Examples of First Composition

[0303] Example of preparation of a white base for the preparation of a first composition in accordance with the invention:

TABLE-US-00008 White Phases Ingredients base A Isododecane 19.41 TRIMETHYL SILOXYSILICATE (SR 18.86 1000 from MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS) DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE (and) 27.73 PROPYLENE CARBONATE (BENTONE GEL ISD V from ELEMENTIS) B Isododecane 19.22 NYLON-611/DIMETHICONE 12.57 COPOLYMER (DOW CORNING 2-8179 GELLANT) C30-45 ALKYLDIMETHYLSILYL 0.55 POLYPROPYLSILSESQUIOXANE (and) PARAFFIN (DOW CORNING SW-8005 C30 RESIN WAX)

Preparation Process

[0304] mix the starting materials of phase A at room temperature [0305] in a separate mixer, mix the starting materials of phase B and heat to 75 C., then cool to room temperature [0306] mix the starting materials of phase B with phase A.

[0307] To accentuate the contrast ratio of this white base, several examples of reflective metal particles, optionally in combination with pigments, were added to make a first covering composition according to the invention:

TABLE-US-00009 Ingredients with Composition Composition Composition Composition Composition percentage according to according to according to according to according to content invention 1 invention 2 invention 3 invention 4 invention 5 D&C Yellow 6 0.09 0.1 0.072 Lake Red 28 0.08 0.16 0.88 D&C Red 22 0.18 0.13 Lake Titanium dioxide 2.4 2.6 Alumina (and) 9.14 11.93 28.32 15.82 15.87 titanium dioxide Prepared white qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 base

[0308] Preparation Process:

The nacres are first added to the white base beforehand. Next, the pigments are ground in a three-roll mill and added to this nacreous white base.

Optical Results:

[0309]

TABLE-US-00010 Composition Composition Composition Composition Composition according to according to according to according to according to Parameters invention 1 invention 2 invention 3 invention 4 invention 5 Contrast ratio 95.1 96.5 96.9 95.4 95.5 (CR) Luminance 88.9 84.8 82.8 89.9 88.6 (L*) Chromaticity 13 23.8 31.8 16.2 15.5 (C*) Characterization Opaque Opaque Opaque Opaque Opaque of the nacreous nacreous nacreous pink nacreous nacreous base coat pink pastel pink pastel pastel peach pastel peach pastel deposit

[0310] Second Composition

[0311] A second composition in accordance with the invention was prepared as follows:

TABLE-US-00011 Ingredients with percentage Composition according content to the invention Red 28 Lake 2.46 Ozokerite 6.27 Beeswax 2.64 Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 24.47 (Softisan 649 from Cremer Oleo) Trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane qs 100 (Dow Corning PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid)

[0312] The pigments were preground and the ingredients were mixed at 80 C., and the mixture then cast in stick form.

[0313] Optical Results

TABLE-US-00012 Composition according to the Parameters invention Contrast ratio 49.5 (CR) Luminance (L*) 48.4 Chromaticity (C*) 59.9 Characterization of Intense fuchsia the covering coat deposit

[0314] When a first composition according to the invention was applied to the lips, and then, once the first composition was dry, a second composition was applied onto said first composition, a depth effect was observed.

[0315] Needless to say, these examples are not limiting: other examples using other starting materials may be used for these examples of varnishes and lipsticks. Similarly, other applications may be imagined, such as a mascara application.

[0316] Examples of Eye Products (Liners, Mascara)

[0317] A first composition for forming a base coat and a second composition for forming a coat covering the base coat may be formulated as follows, for illustrative purposes.

[0318] First Composition

TABLE-US-00013 FIRST COMPOSITION ACCORDING TO THE INGREDIENT WITH PERCENTAGE CONTENT INVENTION Bismuth oxychloride 13 STYRENE/ACRYLATES/AMMONIUM 40 METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER (and) SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE (and) CAPRYLYL GLYCOL (SYNTRAN 5760 CG from INTERPOLYMER) Hydroxypropylcellulose 1 Preserving agent qs Water qs 100

[0319] This first composition may be prepared via a conventional preparation process, but it will preferably be advisable not to grind the bismuth oxychloride.

[0320] Second Composition

TABLE-US-00014 SECOND COMPOSITION ACCORDING TO INGREDIENT WITH THE PERCENTAGE CONTENT INVENTION Blue 1 Lake 2.5 Acrylic acid/isobutyl 40 acrylate/isobornyl acrylate copolymer (Mexomer PAS from Chimex) Preserving agent qs Isododecane qs 100

[0321] This second composition may be prepared via a conventional preparation process, but it will preferably be advisable to grind the organic pigment used with a three-roll mill.

[0322] It is understood that, in the context of the present invention, the weight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds are always expressed as weight of solids of the compound in question.

[0323] Throughout the application, the term comprises one or includes one should be understood as meaning comprising at least one or including at least one, unless otherwise specified.