PROCESS FOR THE COSMETIC TREATMENT OF KERATIN FIBRES USING A RARE-EARTH METAL AND A PARTICULAR POLYMER

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, using at least one particular metal compound belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals and at least one fixing polymer.

Claims

1. Cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising: application to said keratin fibres of a composition (A) comprising one or more salts and/or complexes of a metal belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals in oxidation state +III; and application to said keratin fibres of a composition (B) comprising one or more fixing polymers, it being understood that composition (A) and composition (B) are applied to said keratin fibres together or sequentially.

2. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the metal belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals is chosen from cerium, yttrium, ytterbium, lanthanum and europium.

3. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the salts and/or complexes of a metal belonging to the group of the rare-earth metals in oxidation state +III are chosen from cerium chloride, yttrium chloride, lanthanum chloride, ytterbium chloride, europium chloride, and mixtures thereof.

4. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the metal compound(s) are present in a content ranging from 0.05% to 25% by weight and preferably from 0.2% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A).

5. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the fixing polymer(s) are chosen from anionic fixing polymers, nonionic fixing polymers, cationic fixing polymers and amphoteric fixing polymers, and mixtures thereof.

6. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the fixing polymer(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (B).

7. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the fixing polymer(s) are chosen from anionic fixing polymers, more preferentially from fixing polymers bearing carboxylic groups and more particularly based on acrylic monomer and fixing polymers bearing sulfonic groups, and mixtures thereof.

8. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that composition (A) and composition (B) are applied sequentially to the keratin fibres.

9. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that composition (A) is applied before composition (B).

10. Process for treating keratin fibres according to claim 1, characterized in that composition (B) is applied before composition (A).

11. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the fixing polymer(s) are chosen from nonionic fixing polymers, cationic fixing polymers and amphoteric fixing polymers, and mixtures thereof.

12. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that composition (A) and composition (B) are applied together to the keratin fibres.

13. Multi-compartment kit or device comprising a first compartment containing a composition (A) and a second compartment containing a composition (B).

Description

EXAMPLES

[0436] In the examples that follow, all the amounts are given, unless otherwise indicated, as mass percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 1 (Sequential Process)

[0437] a) Compositions

[0438] Compositions A1, A0 and B1, B2, B3 and B0 were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below:

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Composition A1 Composition A0 Hydrated cerium chloride.sup.(1) 2.5 — NaCl — 2.5 Water qs 100 qs 100 pH (citric acid qs) 4.5 4.5 .sup.(1)sold under the name CeCl.sub.3•7H.sub.2O by Sigma-Aldrich

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Composition Composition Composition Composition B1 B2 B3 B0 copolymer of 5 — 5 — vinyl acetate, vinyl para-tert- butylbenzoate and crotonic acid.sup.(2) 100% neutralized with AMP non-neutralized — 5 — — copolymer of vinyl acetate, vinyl para-tert- butylbenzoate and crotonic acid.sup.(2) Pure ethanol — qs 100 qs 100 — Water qs 100 — — qs 100 .sup.(2)sold under the name Mexomer PW by Chimex

[0439] b) Procedure and Results

[0440] Malleable heads are prepared by cutting the hair in a mid-length cut, i.e. with the hair arriving to the base of the neck.

[0441] The following process is performed on the right side of a first head T1:

[0442] 1 g of composition A1 is applied with a pipette to the roots and the hair is then combed from the root to the ends to make the composition penetrate and spread. This is repeated nine times in a row, taking care to treat the majority of the hair of this side of the malleable head.

[0443] Composition B1 is then applied in an amount of 2 g of composition B1. This application is repeated 10 times in total. Next, after a leave-on time of 15 minutes, the head of hair is rinsed thoroughly with 4 litres of water.

[0444] The same process as previously is performed on the left side of the same head T1, replacing composition A1 with composition A0.

[0445] Before the hair has dried, it is combed, taking care to place the hair horizontally. To do this, each lock is taken in the teeth of the comb at the root and the comb is then slid towards the ends, forcing the hair backwards. The hair is then left to dry naturally.

[0446] It is observed that, in the two sides of the malleable head T1, the hair strands are then set in shape (hair back-combed).

[0447] The hair is then washed. Just after, the hair that is back-combed is put back in place with the comb, and is then left to dry.

[0448] It is observed that the hair remains in the horizontal shape on the right side (treated with the composition containing a rare-earth metal salt), whereas it regains a vertical position on the left side (treated with the composition without the rare-earth metal salt).

[0449] The same tests are performed on the heads T2 and T3 for which composition B1 was replaced with compositions B2 and B3, respectively.

[0450] Next, four new cycles of application of the respective compositions A and B and of washing are performed on the heads T1, T2 and T3.

[0451] It is observed that the styling effect observed after washing on the right side of each head (treated with the composition containing a rare-earth metal salt) becomes accentuated in the course of the cycles.

[0452] The following process is performed on the right side of a head T4:

[0453] 1 g of composition A1 is applied with a pipette to the roots and the hair is then combed from the root to the ends to make the composition penetrate and spread. This is repeated nine times in a row, taking care to treat the majority of the hair of this side of the malleable head.

[0454] Composition B1 is then applied in an amount of 2 g of composition B1. This application is repeated 10 times in total. Next, after a leave-on time of 15 minutes, the head of hair is rinsed thoroughly with 4 litres of water.

[0455] The same process as previously is performed on the left side of the same head T4, replacing composition B1 with composition B0.

[0456] It is observed after drying that the hair maintains its horizontal shape on the right side and that the hair regains a vertical position on the left side.

[0457] Heads T1 to T4 are taken again and five washing cycles are performed. It is observed on the four heads, on the right side, that the hair is cleared and is much easier to style than on the left side (in the sense that, once the horizontal style has been given, the shape is particularly resistant).

Example 2 (All-In-One Process)

[0458] a) Compositions

[0459] Compositions C1, C2, C3, C4 and C5 were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below:

TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 C1 C2 C3 C4 C5 Hydrated cerium chloride.sup.(1) 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 1.5 Hydroxypropylcellulose.sup.(3) 2.5 — — — 1.5 Polyvinyl alcohol.sup.(4) — 2.5 — — — Polyvinylpyrrolidone.sup.(5) — — 2.5 — — 50% neutralized P4VP — — — 2.5 — Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 PH 4.5 4.8 5.1 5.1 4.6 .sup.(1)sold under the name CeCl.sub.3•7H.sub.2O by Sigma-Aldrich .sup.(3)sold under the name Klucel EF Pharm Hydroxypropylcellulose by Ashland .sup.(4)sold under the name Selvol Ultalux FF by Sekisui Speciality .sup.(5)sold under the name PVPK by Ashland

[0460] Compositions C1′, C2′, C3′, C4′ and C5′ corresponding to C1, C2, C3, C4 and C5 are prepared, in which no rare-earth metal salt is used, and are adjusted to the same pH using citric acid.

[0461] Five malleable heads of bleached (Blondys bleach) mid-length Caucasian hair are prepared.

[0462] On the first malleable head:

[0463] Day 1: the left side is treated with composition C1 and the right side is treated with composition C1′, in a proportion of 8 g per half-head. The hair is shaped by back-combing as in Example 1 and is then left to dry. At this stage, the styling effect is graded as in Example 1 and the natural appearance of the style is graded. The hair is then washed (with a single shampooing time) and dried, and the quality of the hair is graded: body, cleanliness of the hair and possibility of putting the back-combed hair back in place.

[0464] Days 2 to 10: the same procedure is repeated and evaluations are made on Day 5 (D5) and Day 10 (D10).

[0465] The grades range from 0 to 5 in increments of 0.5, 0 being the worst grade and 5 the best.

[0466] The results of these evaluations are presented in the table below:

TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 Natural appearance Cleanliness of Possibility of Hold of the given of the hairstyle the hair (after Body (after restyling (with shape (before (before washing and washing, drying washing, drying shampooing) shampooing) drying) and combing) and combing) D1-left side 4.1 2.1 4.6 2.2 2.1 D1-right side 4 2.1 4.5 1.9 1.5 D5-left side 4.4 2.1 4.6 3.4 3.9 D5-right side 4 2.0 4.6 1.9 1.5 D10-left side 4.5 2.4 4.3 3.9 4.2 D10-right side 4 2.0 4.3 1.9 1.5

[0467] Better body of the hair and better possibility of restyling is observed on the left side (invention) relative to the right side (comparative) on days 1, 5 and 10. A more substantial styling effect is observed on the left side (invention) on days 5 and 10.

[0468] On the other four malleable heads, the same protocol as above is performed, comparing the following compositions, respectively: C2 versus C2′, C3 versus C3′, C4 versus C4′ and C5 versus C5′.

[0469] The same effects as for the first malleable head are observed, namely a substantial immediate styling effect (before shampooing) on both sides (left and right) and a substantial styling effect after washing and drying on the left side (invention) but not on the right side (comparative).

[0470] Thereafter, the first malleable head is treated according to the same protocol, using composition C6 (below) on the left side, and composition C1′ on the right side.

[0471] The cycles of application of the compositions and washing are continued up to day 15.

[0472] The same evaluations as previously are performed on days 11 (D11) and 15 (D15).

TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 5 Composition C6 Hydrated cerium chloride.sup.(1) 2.5 Hydroxypropylcellulose.sup.(3) 0.5 Water qs 100 PH 4.5 .sup.(1)sold under the name CeCl.sub.3•7H.sub.2O by Sigma-Aldrich .sup.(3)sold under the name Klucel EF Pharm Hydroxypropylcellulose by Ashland

[0473] The results of these evaluations are presented in the table below:

TABLE-US-00006 Natural appearance of the head Cleanliness of Possibility of Hold of the given of hair the hair (after Body (after restyling (with shape (before (before washing and washing, drying washing, drying shampooing) shampooing) drying) and combing) and combing) D11-left side 3.5 4 4.5 3.9 4.1 D11-right side 4 2.0 4.3 1.9 1.5 D15-left side 4 4 4.6 4.0 4.0 D15-right side 4 2.0 4.5 1.9 1.5

Example 3

[0474] a) Compositions

[0475] The preceding composition C1 and composition C7 are prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below:

TABLE-US-00007 TABLE 7 Composition C7 Hydrated cerium chloride.sup.(1) 2.5 Water qs 100 PH 4.7 .sup.(1)sold under the name CeCl.sub.3•7H.sub.2O by Sigma-Aldrich

[0476] b) Procedure and Results

[0477] Compositions C1 and C7 may be mixed in various relative proportions.

[0478] In a first stage, the hair is treated with composition C1. After a few days, the hair is treated with a mixture of 50% of composition C1 and 50% of composition C.sub.7. After a few more days, the hair is once again treated with composition C1.

[0479] It is possible to adapt the relative proportions of compositions C1 and C7 in order to obtain the mixture that is the most efficient as a function of the head of hair.

Example 4

[0480] a) Compositions

[0481] Compositions A3, A4 and A5 and B4 were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below:

TABLE-US-00008 TABLE 8 A3 A4 A5 B4 Hydrated yttrium 5 — — — chloride.sup.(6) Hydrated lanthanum — 5 — — chloride.sup.(7) Hydrated calcium — — 5 — chloride.sup.(8) Hydroxypropylcellulose.sup.(3) — — — 2 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 pH (citric acid qs) 4.5 4.5 4.4 4.5 (6)sold under the name YCl.sub.3•6H.sub.2O by Sigma-Aldrich .sup.(7)sold under the name LaCl.sub.3•7H.sub.2O by Sigma-Aldrich .sup.(8)CaCl.sub.2•2H.sub.2O .sup.(3)sold under the name Klucel EF Pharm Hydroxypropylcellulose by Ashland

[0482] Compositions M1, M2, M3 and M4 were then prepared at the time of use by mixing, respectively, 50% of the compositions A1, A3, A4 and A5 with 50% of composition B4.

[0483] b) Procedure and Results

[0484] Three malleable heads are prepared as in Example 1.

[0485] The following process is performed on the right side of a first malleable head (same preparation as in Example 1):

[0486] 1 g of composition M1 is applied with a pipette to the roots and the hair is then combed from the root to the ends to make the composition penetrate and spread.

[0487] This is repeated nine times in a row, taking care to treat the majority of the hair of this side of the malleable head.

[0488] The same is done on the left side with composition M2.

[0489] Composition M1 is applied on the right and composition M3 is applied on the left, as previously, on the second malleable head.

[0490] Composition M1 is applied on the right and composition M4 is applied on the left, as previously, on the third malleable head.

[0491] The hold of the shape once the hair is dry is noted each time.

[0492] For the first two malleable heads, the hold is better on the left, the rare-earth metals yttrium and lanthanum afford better results in terms of hold of the shape of the hair than the rare-earth metal cerium.

[0493] For the third malleable head, better hold is observed on the right, the rare-earth metal cerium thus affords a better result than calcium.