AQUEOUS COMPOSITION FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBRES, COMPRISING A PLANT OIL, A HYDROCARBON-BASED OIL, A GLYCEROLATED NONIONIC SURFACTANT, A POLYSACCHARIDE AND A SOLVENT
20230037163 · 2023-02-02
Assignee
Inventors
Cpc classification
A61K8/342
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/39
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
A61K8/39
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
The present invention relates to a composition comprising one or more plant oils, one or more hydrocarbon-based oils other than plant oils, one or more glycerolated nonionic surfactants, one or more polysaccharides, one or more C1 to C.sub.6 monoalcohols and water. The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to said keratin fibres.
Claims
1. Composition comprising: (i) one or more plant oils, (ii) one or more hydrocarbon-based oils other than the plant oils (i), (iii) one or more glycerolated nonionic surfactants, (iv) one or more polysaccharides, (v) one or more C.sub.1 to C.sub.6 monoalcohols and (vi) water; and the sum of the total content of plant oil(s) (i) and of the total content of hydrocarbon-based oil(s) (ii) being greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the plant oil(s) (i) are chosen from sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, groundnut oil, camela oil, safflower oil, beauty-leaf oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil (or coconut kernel oil), coriander oil, marrow oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vernonia oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, evening-primrose oil, palm oil, passion flower oil, grapeseed oil, rose oil, castor oil, rye oil, sesame oil, rice bran oil, camelina oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, pracaxi oil, babassu oil, mongongo oil, manila oil, arara oil, shea butter oil, Brazil nut oil, and mixtures thereof; preferably from soybean oil, jojoba oil, castor oil, coconut oil, and mixtures thereof.
3. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the hydrocarbon-based oil(s) (ii) have a surface tension, at 25° C. and at 1.013×10.sup.5 Pa, of less than or equal to 50 mN/m, preferably less than or equal to 30 mN/m.
4. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the hydrocarbon-based oil(s) (ii) are chosen from C.sub.8 to C.sub.16 hydrocarbon-based oils; preferably from branched C.sub.8 to C.sub.16 alkanes such as isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, linear C.sub.8 to C.sub.16 alkanes such as n-dodecane and n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof.
5. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the sum of the total content of plant oil(s) (i) and of the total content of hydrocarbon-based oil(s) (ii) is between 10% and 40% by weight, more preferentially between 15% and 35% by weight and even more preferentially between 15% and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the glycerolated nonionic surfactant(s) are chosen from: monoesters or polyesters of linear or branched, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C.sub.8 to C.sub.40 acids, comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 20 or even from 2 to 10 mol of glycerol; in particular monoesters or diesters of linear or branched C.sub.8 to C.sub.32, better still C.sub.10 to C.sub.28 or even C.sub.10 to C.sub.24 acids, comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 20 or even from 2 to 10 mol of glycerol, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C.sub.8 to C.sub.40, better still C.sub.10 to C.sub.28, even better still C.sub.10 to C.sub.24 or even C.sub.10 to C.sub.18 alcohols, preferably including one or two fatty chains, and comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 20 or even from 2 to 10 mol of glycerol, mixtures thereof; and more preferentially from monoesters or diesters of linear or branched, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C.sub.8 to C.sub.40, better still C.sub.8 to C.sub.32, even better still C.sub.10 to C.sub.28 or even C.sub.10 to C.sub.24 acids, comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 20 or even from 2 to 10 mol of glycerol, and mixtures thereof.
7. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the polysaccharide(s) are chosen from microbial gums, cationic associative celluloses, and mixtures thereof; preferably from microbial gums, quaternized celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, Polyquaternium-67, and mixtures thereof.
8. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the total content of C.sub.1 to C.sub.6 monoalcohol(s) is between 10% and 50% by weight, preferably between 15% and 40% by weight, and more preferentially between 20% and 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the weight ratio of the total content of plant oil(s) (i), on the one hand, to the total content of glycerolated nonionic surfactant(s) (iii), on the other hand, is greater than or equal to 1, preferably greater than or equal to 2 and more preferentially between 2 and 4.
10. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it also comprises one or more non-oxyalkylenated and non-glycerolated C.sub.8 to C.sub.30 fatty alcohols, preferentially chosen from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
11. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it also comprises one or more structuring agents, preferably chosen from dextrin palmitate, dextrin myristate, sorbitol/sebacic acid/behenate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
12. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it also comprises one or more C.sub.1 to C.sub.7 polyols, preferably chosen from polyols comprising at least three carbon atoms, ethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
13. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is silicone-free.
14. Cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, preferably for caring for and/or conditioning keratin fibres, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin fibres the composition as defined in claim 1.
15. Use of the composition as defined in claim 1, for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, preferably for caring for and/or conditioning keratin fibres.
Description
EXAMPLES
Example 1
[0238] The cosmetic compositions (A) and (B) according to the invention are prepared from the ingredients shown in the tables below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages of active material (AM).
TABLE-US-00001 Composition A Jojoba oil 8.5 (Simmondsia chinensis seed oil) Dodecane 12.5 Polyquaternium-67 0.2 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 3 Ethanol 30 Water qs 100 Composition B Jojoba oil 8.5 (Simmondsia chinensis seed oil) Dodecane 12.5 Xanthan gum 0.075 Scleroglucan gum 0.225 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 3 Oleyl alcohol 1 Propylene glycol 5 Ethanol 25 Water qs 100
[0239] Compositions (A) and (B) according to the invention were each applied to locks of sensitized hair of Caucasian type (SA20), at a rate of 0.075 g of composition per gram of hair.
[0240] A sensory evaluation of the disentangling of the hair, of the cleanliness of the hair, of the smooth feel and smooth look, and of the sheen is then performed by three experts on each of the non-rinsed locks.
[0241] At T.sub.0, it is observed that the locks of hair treated with one of the compositions (A) or (B) according to the invention have a good level of care/conditioning, notably in terms of the disentangling, sheen, cleanliness, smooth feel and smooth look of the hair.
Example 2
[0242] The cosmetic compositions (C) and (D) are prepared from the ingredients shown in the tables below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages of active material (AM).
TABLE-US-00002 Composition C Composition D (Comparative) (Invention) Jojoba oil 2.5 3.5 (Simmondsia chinensis seed oil) Dodecane 1.5 2.5 Polyquaternium-67 0.2 0.2 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 3 3 Ethanol 30 30 Water qs 100 qs 100 Sum of the total content of plant 4 6 oil(s) and of the total content of hydrocarbon-based oil(s)
[0243] Compositions (C) and (D) were each applied to locks of sensitized hair of Caucasian type (SA20), at a rate of 0.042 g of composition per lock of hair of 2.7 g.
[0244] The compositions were distributed homogeneously from the roots to the ends of the hair.
[0245] The locks of hair were then dried for 15 minutes in the open air.
[0246] A sensory evaluation of the smooth feel and of the lightness is then performed on dry hair by six experts, in a blind test, on each of the non-rinsed locks.
[0247] The experts evaluated using a rating scale ranging from 0 (very poor) to 5 (very good). The rating scale varies in steps of 0.5.
[0248] To evaluate the smooth feel, the expert grasps the lock between the thumb and forefinger, and slides his fingers along the lock from the roots to the ends. He evaluates whether the hair is soft, if it does not have any roughness, if it does not hold the fingers, if the touch is homogeneous.
[0249] To evaluate the lightness, the expert lifts the hair in large strands with the hands and looks at the way the hair falls: the light hair is individualized, flowing and does not fall out in clumps.
[0250] The results are summarized in the tables below:
TABLE-US-00003 Composition C Composition D LIGHTNESS (Comparative) (Invention) Expert 1 2 4 Expert 2 2 4 Expert 3 2 4 Expert 4 3 4 Expert 5 2 4 Expert 6 3.5 3 Average 2.4 3.8 Standard deviations 0.7 0.4
TABLE-US-00004 Composition C Composition D SMOOTH FEEL (Comparative) (Invention) Expert 1 3 3.5 Expert 2 3 3.5 Expert 3 3 4 Expert 4 3 4 Expert 5 3 4 Expert 6 3.5 4 Average 3.1 3.8 Standard deviations 0.2 0.3
[0251] It is observed that the locks of hair treated with the composition (D) according to the invention are lighter and smoother than the locks of hair treated with the comparative composition (C).