AQUEOUS COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CATIONIC CELLULOSIC POLYMER, AN ANIONIC SURFACTANT COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE CATIONIC COUNTERION, A FATTY PHASE AND A PIGMENT

Abstract

The present application relates to a composition comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium: a. water; and b. at least one cellulosic cationic polymer (CP); and c. at least one anionic polymer (AP) chosen from methacrylic acid homopolymer salts; and d. at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one cationic counterion; and e. a fatty phase; and f. at least one pigment; the weight ratio of the total amount of cellulosic cationic polymer(s)/the sum of the total amount of cellulosic cationic polymer(s) and of the total amount of anionic polymer(s) ranging from 40% to 80%, preferably from 60% to 70%; the weight ratio of the sum of the total amount of cellulosic cationic polymer(s) and of the total amount of anionic polymer(s)/the amount of water ranging from 5% to 20%. The invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials, in particular the skin, notably the contour of the eyes, eyelashes or eyebrows, and keratin fibers, such as the eyelashes and/or the eyebrows, comprising a step of applying to said keratin materials at least one composition as defined above.

Claims

1. A composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a. water; b. at least one cellulosic cationic polymer (CP); c. at least one anionic polymer (AP) chosen from methacrylic acid homopolymer salts; d. at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one cationic counterion; e. a fatty phase; and f. at least one pigment; wherein a weight ratio of the total amount of cellulosic cationic polymer(s)/the sum of the total amount of cellulosic cationic polymer(s) and of the total amount of anionic polymer(s) is from 40% to 80%; and a weight ratio of the sum of the total amount of cellulosic cationic polymer(s) and of the total amount of anionic polymer(s)/the amount of water is from 5% to 20%.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the water is present in a concentration ranging from 30% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the cellulosic cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of: quaternary ammoniums of hydroxy(C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl cellulose that has reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group; hydroxy(C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl celluloses grafted by a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt; and mixtures thereof.

4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the cellulosic cationic polymer is a quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethylcellulose and of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimonium having the INCI name: POLYQUATERNIUM-10.

5. The composition of claim 1, wherein the concentration of active material of cellulosic cationic polymer(s) is from 1.0% to 5.0% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

6. The composition of claim 1, wherein the anionic polymer is a sodium salt of methacrylic acid homopolymer, having the INCI name: Sodium polymethacrylate.

7. The composition of claim 1, wherein the concentration of active material of anionic polymer(s) is from 1.0% to 5.0% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

8. The composition of claim 1, wherein the pigment is a metal oxide.

9. The composition of claim 1, wherein the amount of pigment(s) is from 2% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition of claim 1, wherein the anionic surfactant(s) is selected from the group consisting of i. alkyl phosphates; ii. alkyl sulfates; iii. alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; iv. alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates; alkyl sulfosuccinamates; v. alkyl sulfoacetates; vi. acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, acyl isethionates, N-acyl taurates and acyl lactylates; vii. alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters; viii. fatty acids; ix. alkyl-D-galactosiduronic acids; x. polyoxyalkylenated (C.sub.6-C.sub.24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C.sub.6-C.sub.24)alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C.sub.6-C.sub.24)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and xi. mixtures thereof.

11. The composition of claim 1, wherein the anionic surfactant(s) is (are) present in a total content of greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition of claim 1, wherein the cationic counterion(s) is (are) a cation of mineral origin the ammonium ion (NH4+) or organic cations.

13. The composition of claim 12, wherein the cationic counterion is an organic cation and said organic cationic counterion(s) is (are) selected from amines and amino alcohols.

14. The composition of claim 1, wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of: C.sub.12-C.sub.22 fatty acids; alkyl phosphates in a form neutralized by a cationic counterion of an alkali metal; acyl glutamates in a form neutralized by a cationic counterion of an alkali metal; and mixtures thereof.

15. The composition of claim 1, wherein the fatty phase is dispersed and comprises at least one wax, at least one pasty fatty substance and/or at least one oil.

16. The composition of claim 1, wherein the fatty phase is dispersed and comprises at least one wax selected from the group consisting of beeswax, carnauba wax, cetyl alcohol, behenyl behenate and mixtures thereof.

17. The composition of claim 1, in the form of an eyelash product, an eyebrow product or a product for the contour of the eyes.

18. An assembly, or kit, for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers, comprising: a device for packaging said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers of claim 1, and an applicator for said composition.

19. A process for coating keratin materials, comprising applying to said keratin materials at least one composition of claim 1.

Description

EXAMPLES 1 TO 3 AND C-EX1 TO C-EX3

[0209] Examples 1 to 3 according to the invention comprising a pigment, the cationic polymer (CP) polyquaternium-10, the anionic polymer (AP) sodium polymethacrylate, and an anionic surfactant in a form neutralized by its cationic counterion, and counterexamples C-Ex1 to C-Ex3 (outside the invention), in which the cationic polymer and anionic polymer have been removed, were prepared. The concentrations of polyquaternium-10 and of sodium polymethacrylate are expressed in % by weight of polymer active material.

[0210] In the absence of the CP and of the AP, the concentrations of the waxes and those of the anionic surfactants were modified in each counterpart composition so as to obtain a stable formulation (no phase separation) having a solids content of the same order as that of the corresponding example of the invention and guaranteeing an equivalent level of final volume (solids content: 47.5-48.7%)

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Phase Ingredient (INCI) C-Ex1 Ex1 C-Ex2 Ex2 C-Ex3 Ex3 (1) Behenyl behenate 13.9 12.4 13.8 12.4 13.9 12.4 (Kester Wax K-72 ®) Beeswax (GR B 13.7 12.2 13.6 12.2 13.7 12.2 889 ®) Carnauba wax 3.5 3.1 3.5 3.1 3.5 3.1 (Cerauba T1 ®) Cetyl alcohol (Kalcol 1.9 1.7 1.9 1.7 1.9 1.7 6098 ®) Potassium cetyl 5.6 5.0 — — phosphate (Amphisol K ®) Stearic acid — — 5.6 5.0 — Sodium stearoyl 5.6 5.0 glutamate (Amisoft HS 11 PF ®) Iron oxide 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 Cl 77499 (2) Polyquaternium-10 — 2.8 — 2.8 — 2.8 (Celquat SC240C ®) Sodium — 1.2 — 1.2 — 1.2 polymethacrylate (Darvan 7-N ®) Aminomethyl 0.2 0.2 1.33 1.2 — — propanediol (AMPD Ultra PC ®) Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (Sepicide LD ®) Phenylethyl alcohol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (Phenylethyl alcohol 00360220 ®) Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 CP/(CP + AP) ratio 0 70 0 70 0 70 in % by weight (CP + AP)/(CP + AP + Water) 0 7.1 0 7.2 0 7.1 ratio in % by weight Solids in % by weight 47.7 47.7 48.7 48.7 47.5 47.5 Appearance of the compositions B A A A B B Loss of polymer in % by weight 59.3 15.1 45.6 13.9 89.3 17.6 after immersion of the dry deposit in water Appearance of the deposits C A C A C A after immersion in water

Protocol for Preparing the Examples and Counterexamples

[0211] Mascara compositions in accordance with the invention are prepared as described below.

Preparation of Phase (1)

[0212] The starting materials were carefully weighed out beforehand using a balance (precision=0.01 g). The ingredients of phase (1) were melted in a jacketed heating pan in which an oil circulates, the temperature of which is controlled by means of a thermostatically-controlled oil bath. The nominal temperature was set at 90° C. After total melting, the pigment was introduced with stirring using a Rayneri blender. Stirring was maintained until a homogeneous preparation was obtained.

Preparation of Phase (2)

[0213] The water was preheated in an electric kettle to 95° C. The cationic polymer and the anionic polymer were mixed with hot water and then the preserving agents and the base were introduced into the water in a beaker at a temperature of 80° C. with stirring using a Rayneri blender.

Emulsification of Phases (1) and (2)

[0214] Phase (2) was poured into phase (1) with stirring for 5 minutes at 90° C. using a Rayneri blender. Phase (1)+(2) was then cooled to ambient temperature with stirring.

Appearance of the Composition

[0215] The appearance of the compositions is observed. The following notations A, B and C are given:

A: Thick, black, smooth composition.
B: Thick, black, matt composition.
C: Heterogeneous composition with 2 liquid phases.

Protocol for Evaluating the Wear Property:

[0216] An amount (mi) of the compositions is applied to a glass substrate having an area of 5 cm×2.5 cm and left to dry for 1 hour. The dry sample was then immersed in a volume of 90 ml of water stirred with a magnetic stirrer at a speed of between 300 and 700 rpm. After 1 hour of immersion in water, the glass substrate was left to dry at ambient temperature (25° C.) and the amount (mf) of composition remaining on the dry deposit was measured. The wear property of each example is calculated by the loss of polymer after immersion in water expressed as a percentage by weight, with the following equation: (mi−mf)/mi.

[0217] The appearance of the deposits after immersion in water is observed. The following notations A, B and C are given:

A: Deposit is intact on the support;
B: Deposit exhibits slight makeup removal;
C: Deposit exhibits considerable makeup removal.

[0218] The results of the tests showed that examples 1 to 3 according to the invention, having a CP/CP+AP weight ratio ranging from 40% to 70% and a (CP+AP/(CP+AP+Water) ratio ranging from 5% to 20%, had an excellent wear property (loss of polymer after immersion in water <20% and deposit intact after immersion in water: A) unlike the counterexamples C-Ex1, C-Ex2 and C-Ex3 not containing the CP/AP combination.

EXAMPLES C-EX4 TO C-EX6 (OUTSIDE THE INVENTION)

[0219] Counterexamples C-Ex4 to C-Ex6 outside the invention, which are identical respectively to examples 1, 2 and 3 according to the invention, but in which the anionic surfactant neutralized by its cationic counterion at 5% by weight has been replaced with a nonionic surfactant system at 5% by weight, were produced.

TABLE-US-00002 TABLES 2 Phase Ingredient (INCI) C-Ex4 C-Ex5 C-Ex6 (1) Behenyl behenate (Kester Wax 12.4 12.4 12.4 K-72 ®) Beeswax (GR B 889 ®) 12.2 12.2 12.2 Carnauba wax (Cerauba T1 ®) 3.1 3.1 3.1 Cetyl alcohol (Kalcol 6098 ®) 1.7 1.7 1.7 Steareth-2 2.5 — 2.5 Steareth-20 2.5 — PEG-100 stearate — 5.0 — Glyceryl behenate — 2.5 Iron oxide CI 77499 8.0 8.0 8.0 (2) Polyquaternium-10 (Celquat 2.8 2.8 2.8 SC240C ®) Sodium polymethacrylate 1.2 1.2 1.2 (Darvan 7-N ®) Phenoxyethanol (Sepicide 0.5 0.5 0.5 LD ®) Phenylethyl alcohol 0.5 0.5 0.5 (Phenylethyl alcohol 00360220 ®) Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 CP/(CP + AP) ratio in % by weight 70 70 70 (CP + AP)/(CP + AP + Water) 7.1 7.2 7.1 ratio in % by weight Appearance of the compositions C C C
The use of the nonionic surfactant system in the presence of the cellulosic cationic polymer and of the anionic polymer in counterexamples C-Ex4, C-Ex5, C-Ex6 outside the invention all resulted in unstable compositions constituted of two heterogeneous phases, contrary to their respective counterparts according to the invention 1, 2 and 3.