PROCESS FOR PERMANENT WAVING KERATIN FIBERS

Abstract

Compositions and processes disclosed herein permanent wave keratin fibers and/or human hair for achieving durable waves. The keratin fibers and/or human hair are treated with a reducing composition, a non-reducing and non-oxidizing composition comprising tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, optionally a non-reducing and non-oxidizing acidic composition. Subsequently, the keratin fibers and/or human hair are treated with an oxidizing composition wherein after processing the reducing composition is rinsed off the keratin fibers and/or human hair.

Claims

1. A process for permanently waving keratin fibers, the process comprising: a—optionally washing and/or shampooing and towel drying keratin fibers; b—applying an aqueous composition onto the keratin fibers, wherein the aqueous compositions comprises one or more reducing agents and is left on the keratin fibers for a period of 1 to 60 min; c—rinsing off the keratin fibers; d—putting the keratin fibers onto one or more curlers; e—applying a first non-reducing and non-oxidizing aqueous composition onto the keratin fibers, wherein the first non-reducing and non-oxidizing aqueous composition comprises tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane (TRIS), has a pH in the range of 7.5 to 12, and is left on the keratin fibers for a period of 1 to 60 min; f—optionally rinsing off the keratin fibers; g—optionally applying a second non-reducing and non-oxidizing aqueous composition onto the keratin fibers, wherein the second non-reducing and non-oxidizing aqueous composition comprises one or more organic and/or one or more inorganic acids, has a pH in the range of 2 to 6.5, and is optionally left on the keratin fibers for a period of 1 to 60 min; h—optionally rinsing off the keratin fibers; i—applying an aqueous composition onto the keratin fibers, wherein the aqueous composition comprises one or more oxidizing agents and is left on the keratin fibers for a period of 1 to 30 min; j—optionally rinsing off the keratin fibers; and k—drying the keratin fibers, wherein the one or more curlers are taken off from keratin fibers before or during processing in i—or after i—prior to rinsing of and/or drying or after rinsing off the keratin fibers after j—, and the process as a whole is carried out at ambient temperature without using any heat and/or heating device.

2. The process of claim 1, wherein the keratin fibers are covered with a foil or towel during the period that the aqueous compositions comprising reducing agents, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane (TRIS), and acids are left on the keratin fibers.

3. The process of claim 1, wherein the one or more reducing agents are selected from sulfite and/or hydrogen sulfite salts, thiogylcolic acid and/or its salts, cysteamine and/or its salts, thioglycerin and/or its salts, glycerin esters of thioglycolic acid and/or its salts, thiolactic acid and/or its salts, cysteine or its derivatives and/or its salts, and at least one mixture thereof.

4. The process of claim 1, wherein a total concentration of the reducing agents in the aqueous composition of b—is in the range of 0.5 to 20%, by weight, calculated to a total weight of the aqueous composition.

5. The process of claim 1, wherein the aqueous composition of b- has a pH in the range of 3 to 12.

6. The process of claim 1, wherein the first non-reducing and non-oxidizing aqueous composition of e—comprises tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane (TRIS) at a total concentration of 1 to 35% by weight, calculated to a total weight of the first non-reducing and non-oxidizing aqueous composition.

7. The process of claim 1, wherein the first non-reducing and non-oxidizing aqueous composition of e—does not comprise more than 5% by weight of the tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane (TRIS) other alkalizing agents.

8. The process of claim 1, wherein the one or more organic acids are selected from citric acid, succinic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, formic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid and their salts and one or more inorganic acids are selected from phosphoric acid, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, carbonic acid, one or more their respective salts, and at least one combination thereof.

9. The process of claim 1, wherein the one or more organic and/or the one or more inorganic acids are comprised at a total concentration of in the range of 0.1 to 20% by weight, calculated to a total weight of the second non-reducing and non-oxidizing aqueous composition.

10. The process of claim 1, wherein the pH of the 1:1, by weight, mixture of the first and second non-reducing and non-oxidizing aqueous compositions used in e—and g—is in the range of 4.5 to 8.

11. The process of claim 1, wherein the pH of the aqueous composition in i—is in the range of 2 to 8, when hydrogen peroxide is comprised as the oxidizing agent, or is in the range of 5 to 8 when bromate salt is comprised as the oxidizing agent.

12. The process of claim 1, wherein hydrogen peroxide or bromate salt as the oxidizing agent in the aqueous composition of i—is present at a total concentration in the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight, calculated to a total weight of the aqueous composition.

13. The process of claim 1, wherein the one or more curlers are being taken off from the keratin fibers after rinsing off the aqueous composition of i—and prior to drying the keratin fibers.

14. The process of claim 1, wherein one or more of the aqueous compositions of the process comprise a thickening agent, a thickening polymer and/or one or more surfactants selected from at least one anionic surfactant, at least one nonionic surfactant, at least one amphoteric surfactant, and at least one cationic surfactant.

15. A kit for keratin fibers comprising: aqueous compositions, wherein at least one first aqueous of the aqueous compositions is or comprises an aqueous composition comprising the one or more reducing agents of claim 1, the non-reducing and non-oxidizing aqueous composition comprising TRIS of claim 1, optionally a non-reducing and non-oxidizing aqueous composition comprising the one or more organic and/or the one or more inorganic acids of claim 1, and/or the aqueous composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents of claim 1.

Description

EXAMPLE 1

[0084] The following compositions were used in carrying out the disclosure and comparing it with compositions not comprising the alkalizing agent claimed in the process of the present disclosure.

[0085] Aqueous Reducing Composition

TABLE-US-00001 % by weight Ammonium thioglycolate 10 Ammonium hydroxide 2 Phosphoric acid q.s. to pH 8.5 Water to 100

[0086] Aqueous Alkaline Compositions

TABLE-US-00002 % by weight A B C D E F Ammonium chloride 2 — — — — — Ammonium hydroxide 4 — — — — — TRIS — 33 15  5 5 5 Sodium hydroxide q.s. to pH 10  10 10 10 9 8 Water q.s. to 100

[0087] Aqueous Acidic Composition

TABLE-US-00003 % by weight Lactic acid 8 Sodium hydroxide q.s. to pH 3.5 Water to 100

[0088] Aqueous Oxidising Composition

TABLE-US-00004 % by weight Hydrogen peroxide 10 Sodium hydroxide q.s. to pH 3.0 Water to 100

[0089] A hair streak weighing approximately 5 g and having a length of 20 cm is permanently waved using the above compositions. Firstly, the streak was washed with a commercially available shampoo composition and towel dried. Afterwards, the streak was dipped into the aqueous reducing composition and left in the solution for 15 min and taken out and rinsed off with water. Afterwards, the streak was put on curlers with a diameter of 1.5 cm and dipped into the alkaline composition. After 10 min, the streak was taken out and without rinsing off, it was dipped into the aqueous acidic composition, in case the acidic treatment was carried out. After 10 min, the streak was taken out and rinsed off and dipped into the oxidizing composition for 15 min and the curlers were taken off. The streaks were rinsed off and dried. The curl ratio and observed properties of hair streaks are provided in the Table below.

[0090] The curl ratio (L) was calculated with the following equation:

L=((L.sub.0−L.sub.t)/L.sub.0)×100

[0091] wherein L.sub.0 is the length of the hair streak in cm prior to permanent waving, L.sub.t is the length of the hair streak in cm at the end of the permanent waving process.

TABLE-US-00005 A B C D E F Without Curl ratio 4   10.6 17.6 20.3 23.3 21.9 acid Description Weak wave, Strong bouncy Strong bouncy Intense bouncy Intense bouncy Intense bouncy treatment rough feeling, wave, rough curl, rough curl, soft hand curl, soft hand curl, soft hand damaged feeling, slightly feeling, slightly feeling, low feeling, low feeling, low appearance damaged damaged damage damage damage appearance appearance appearance appearance appearance With Curl ratio 7.8 12.8 22.3 28.4 26.6 24.2 acid Description Weak wave, Strong bouncy Strong bouncy Intense bouncy Intense bouncy Intense bouncy treatment rough feeling, wave, rough curl, soft curl, very soft curl, very soft curl, very soft damaged feeling, slightly feeling, slightly hand feeling, hand feeling, hand feeling, appearance damaged damaged low damage low damage low damage appearance appearance appearance appearance appearance

[0092] From the above results the following conclusions are drawn. [0093] The alkaline treatment with TRIS comprising composition produces stronger curls and the hair treated feels soft and appears to be less damaged. [0094] The acidic treatment after treating hair with alkaline TRIS comprising composition provides even more stronger curls and the hair treated with this process feels soft and appears to be less damaged. [0095] The curl efficiency is not very much dependent on alkalinity of the alkaline composition comprising TRIS, similar curl ratio was observed in the pH range of 8 to 10. [0096] More effective curling was observed in the concentration range of 5 to 15% by weight TRIS content in the alkaline composition.

EXAMPLE 2—COMPARATIVE TEST

[0097] Aqueous Reducing Composition with Tris

TABLE-US-00006 % by weight Ammonium thioglycolate 10 Ammonium hydroxide 2 TRIS 5 Phosphoric acid q.s. to pH 8.5 Water to 100

[0098] Two hair streaks weighing approximately 5 g and having a length of 20 cm is permanently waved using the above compositions of Example 1. Composition E or the comparative example as above are used as the reducing compositions. One of the streaks was treated exactly in the same way as disclosed in Example 1—Streak Treated according to disclosure. The other streak—Comparative streak—washed with a commercially available shampoo composition and towel dried. Afterwards, the streak was dipped into the above aqueous reducing composition comprising TRIS and left in the solution for 15 min and taken out and rinsed off with water. Afterwards, the streak was put on curlers with a diameter of 1.5 cm and it was dipped into the aqueous acidic composition. After 10 min, the streak was taken out and rinsed off and dipped into the oxidizing composition for 15 min and the curlers were taken off. The streaks were washed and dried.

[0099] The streak treated according to the disclosure had a curl ratio of 27.4 whereas the curl ratio of the comparative streak was only 14.9. The streak treated with the inventive process had Intense bouncy curl, very soft hand feeling, low damage appearance whereas the comparative streak was weak wavy (lower curl ratio), rough feeling, and had clearly damaged appearance.

[0100] In a parallel comparative test, the test as above was repeated with exclusion of the acidic treatment step. Here again two parallel hair streaks were permanently shaped, the one using the same process as in Example 1 and Composition E and the other using the reducing composition as of above. The streaks were rinsed off after processing of the reducing composition, put on curlers and dipped directly into the oxidizing composition (no acidic treatment step) and after 15 min of processing, curlers were taken off and streaks were rinsed off and dried.

[0101] The streak treated according to the disclosure had a curl ratio of 27.1 whereas the curl ratio of the comparative streak was only 8.3. The streak treated with the inventive process had Intense bouncy curl, very soft hand feeling, low damage appearance whereas the comparative streak was very weak wavy (lower curl ratio), rough feeling, and had clearly damaged appearance.

[0102] These results provide clear evidence that the waving hair with the inventive process has unexpected advantageous performance over the known process from the prior art, especially WO 02/38114 A1.