COSMETIC PRODUCT AND CONCENTRATE FOR PRODUCING THE COSMETIC PRODUCT

Abstract

A cosmetic product is described which in addition to water, contains at least one hydrogenated phospholipid in a concentration of at least 0.7% by weight, at least one divalent and/or trivalent alcohol, and at least one wax. In the cosmetic product, the weight ratio of hydrogenated phospholipid to the wax varies between 1:0.3 and 1:1.5, more preferably between 1:0.7 and 1:1, wherein the hydrogenated phospholipid is at least partially present in an ortho-rhombic lamellar crystalline structure and the wax is incorporated in the ortho-rhombic lamellar crystalline structure and/or is attached to the ortho-rhombic lamellar crystalline structure.

Claims

1. A cosmetic product which contains, in addition to water, at least one hydrogenated phospholipid in a concentration of at least 0.7% by weight, at least one divalent and/or trivalent alcohol and at least one wax, wherein a) in the cosmetic product, a weight ratio of hydrogenated phospholipid to the wax varies between 1:0.3 and 1:1.5, b) in the cosmetic product, the hydrogenated phospholipid is at least partially present in an ortho-rhombic lamellar crystalline structure, and c) the wax is incorporated in the ortho-rhombic lamellar crystalline structure and/or is attached to the ortho-rhombic lamellar crystalline structure.

2. The cosmetic product according to claim 1, wherein the at least one hydrogenated phospholipid is selected from the group comprising hydrogenated phosphatidylethanolamine, hydrogenated phosphatidylinositol, hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, hydrogenated lyso-phosphatidylcholine, hydrogenated phosphatidylserine, and hydrogenated phosphatidic acid.

3. The cosmetic product according to claim 1, wherein the hydrogenated phospholipid is a hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine and has a concentration of hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine of at least 60% by weight.

4. The cosmetic product according to claim 1, wherein the wax is a vegetable wax and is isolated from leaves, needles, stalks, roots, rinds, bran, peels, seeds, flowers and/or fruits.

5. The cosmetic product according to claim 4, wherein the vegetable wax is selected from the group comprising carnaubal wax, candelilla wax, ouricuri wax, sugar cane wax, retamow wax, caranday wax, raffia wax, columbine wax, esparto wax, alfalfa wax, bamboo wax, hemp wax, Douglas Fir wax, cork wax, sisal wax, flax wax, cotton wax, dammar wax, cereal wax, tea wax, coffee wax, ocatilla wax, citrus aurantium dulcis peel wax, ficus cerifer wax, orange wax, sunflower seed wax, sunflower seed shell wax, Brussels sprout wax, tobacco plant wax, pumpkin seed wax, corn wax, prickly cactus wax and oleander wax.

6. The cosmetic product according to claim 1, wherein the wax is carnauba wax, sunflower seed wax, rice bran wax, rice wax or a mixture of these waxes.

7. The cosmetic product according to claim 6, wherein the carnauba wax, sunflower seed wax, rice wax and/or the rice bran wax contain saturated C.sub.22-C.sub.26 fatty acids as main fatty acid components.

8. The cosmetic product according to claim 7, wherein the cosmetic product comprises the carnauba wax, sunflower seed wax, rice wax and/or rice bran wax, in which the main fatty acid component of the respective wax is present in a concentration between 15% by weight and 33% by weight, based on the weight of the respective wax.

9. The cosmetic product according to claim 8, wherein the cosmetic product comprises the carnauba wax, sunflower seed wax, rice wax and/or rice bran wax, in which the main fatty acid component of the respective wax is present in a concentration between 23% by weight and 28% by weight, based on the weight of the respective wax.

10. The cosmetic product according to claim 7, wherein the carnauba wax, sunflower seed wax, rice wax and/or the rice bran wax, contains free C.sub.16-C.sub.24 fatty acids.

11. The cosmetic product according to claim 10, wherein the carnauba wax, sunflower seed wax, rice wax and/or rice bran wax, contains the free C.sub.16-C.sub.24 fatty acids in a concentration of between 1% by weight and 1.8% by weight, based on the weight of the respective wax.

12. The cosmetic product according to claim 11, wherein the concentration of the unsaturated fatty acids in the free fatty acids varies between 0.05% by weight and 0.4% by weight, based on the weight of the respective wax.

13. The cosmetic product according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic product contains a diol and/or glycerin as the at least one dihydric or trivalent alcohol.

14. The cosmetic product according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic product contains, as an alcohol, glycerin, pentylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, octanediol and/or butylcyclohexanol.

15. The cosmetic product according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic product contains isostearyl isostearate as a further ingredient in a concentration between 0.5% by weight and 35% by weight.

16. The cosmetic product according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic product contains a concentration of hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine between 0.7% by weight and 8% by weight.

17. The cosmetic product according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic product further has a UV filter, a skin-protecting active ingredient, a skin-care active ingredient, a smoothing active ingredient, a skin-softening active ingredient, a skin-whitening active ingredient, a tanning active ingredient, a deodorizing active ingredient, a depilatory active ingredient, a moisturizing active ingredient, an active ingredient for the care and treatment of hypersensitive skin, an active ingredient for the treatment and care of infected, irritated or diseased skin, an active ingredient for prophylaxis against insect bites, a greasing active ingredient, an anti-inflammatory active ingredient and/or a moisturizing active ingredient.

18. The cosmetic product according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic product has such an active substance selected from the group comprising butylcyclohexanol, resolvin, farnesyl pyrophosphates, capsazepines, cinnamides, carboxamides and palmitoyl tripeptides-8.

19. The cosmetic product according to claim 18, wherein the cosmetic product contains butylcyclohexanol, which is at least one tertiary butylcyclohexanol.

20. The cosmetic product according to claim 18, wherein the cosmetic product has a mixture of the butylcyclohexanol and pentylene glycol.

21. The cosmetic product according to claim 18, wherein a concentration of the above-mentioned active ingredients in the cosmetic product varies between 0.01% by weight and 2.5% by weight.

22. A concentrate for the manufacture of the cosmetic product according to claim 1, wherein a) the concentrate is prepared by dilution with an aqueous system, b) wherein the concentrate contains at least one hydrogenated phospholipid, water, at least one dihydric and/or trihydric alcohol and at least one vegetable wax, c) wherein the concentrate can be diluted with the aqueous system with the formation of the cosmetic product in a volume ratio between 1:0.3 and 1:15, d) the concentrate has such a concentration of hydrogenated phospholipid that, depending on the desired dilution, the cosmetic product produced therefrom by dilution contains at least 0.7% by weight of the hydrogenated phospholipid, e) wherein in the concentrate, the weight ratio of hydrogenated phospholipid to the vegetable wax varies between 1:0.3 and 1:1.5, f) wherein in the concentrate, the hydrogenated phospholipid is at least partially present in an ortho-rhombic lamellar structure, and g) wherein in the concentrate, the wax is incorporated in the ortho-rhombic lamellar crystalline structure and/or is attached to the ortho-rhombic lamellar crystalline structure.

23. A concentrate according to claim 22, wherein the aqueous system has at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

24. (canceled)

Description

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0052] The cosmetic product according to the invention is explained in more detail in conjunction with the schematic drawings according to FIGS. 1 to 3, 4, 5, 5A and 6 of the two efficacy studies, and the exemplary embodiments 1 to 12. They show:

[0053] FIG. 1 is a schematic illustration of an ortho-rhombic lamellar crystalline structure;

[0054] FIG. 2 is a schematic illustration of a single plane of the ortho-rhombic lamellar crystalline structure depicted in FIG. 1;

[0055] FIG. 3 is a schematic illustration of a single plane of a hexagonal lamellar crystalline structure;

[0056] FIGS. 4, 5 and 5A are the X-ray structure analysis results; and

[0057] FIG. 6 is the result of a first efficacy study.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0058] FIG. 1 schematically depicts an ortho-rhombic lamellar crystalline structure which forms the hydrogenated phospholipid and in particular the hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine under the manufacturing conditions as described in detail in the embodiments 1 to 12. The hydrogenated phospholipid molecules (exemplarily designated 1) are characterized by a white circle. On or in this structure are shown black wax molecules (exemplarily designated 2) attached and/or incorporated.

[0059] The structure shown in FIG. 1 has, for example, a first planar double membrane layer 3 and a planar second double membrane layer 4, which is shown only partially, wherein these two double membrane layers 3 and 4 are sandwiched one above the other.

[0060] The completely illustrated double membrane layer 3 consists of two layers, wherein the individual molecules of the hydrogenated phospholipid 1 and the wax 2 are aligned within the layers as shown in FIG. 1.

[0061] In FIG. 2, the ortho-rhombic lamellar crystalline structure is schematically depicted at a section in a single plane, which corresponds to the plane of the plane identified by 5 in FIG. 1 and thus represents a plan view of the lamellar structure shown in FIG. 1.

[0062] Viewed in the direction of this plane 5, for the ortho-rhombic lamellar crystalline structure shown in FIG. 2, the molecular distance designated by 6 is 3.71 , while the lateral distance of the molecules designated by 7 is 4.16 .

[0063] In contrast to FIG. 2, FIG. 3 shows a hexagonal lamellar crystalline structure. Here, the molecular distances 8 and 9 which correspond to the distances 6 and 7 of the structure shown in FIG. 2 with regard to their position are respectively 4.16 .

[0064] The above-noted differences in the molecular distances, on the one hand of 3.71 and 4.16 for the ortho-rhombic lamellar crystalline structure according to FIG. 2 and on the other hand of 4.16 (in both directions) on the hexagonal lamellar crystalline structure according to FIG. 3, can be clearly demonstrated by the X-ray structure analysis described in the following.

[0065] This proof is demonstrated by FIG. 4, which reflects the corresponding X-ray structure analysis result for the two formulations used in the first comparative efficacy study described in the following, designated there with formulation A (according to the invention) and comparison formulation B.

[0066] FIGS. 5 and 5A also show that all the compositions described in embodiments 1 to 12 form an ortho-rhombic lamellar crystalline structure, wherein the exemplary embodiments 1 to 6 and 7 to 12 are identified on the right-hand side of these two illustration by the reference numerals 1 to 6 and 7 to 12. All the X-ray structure analysis results shown there have two peaks, one at 3.71 and a second peak at 4.16 .

[0067] It should be noted for FIGS. 4, 5 and 5A that the intensity is not calibrated, since FIG. 4 is the reproduction of the two X-ray structure analysis results of the two formulations A and B compared with one another in the first efficacy study, and FIG. 5 is reproduction of the six X-ray structure analysis results for embodiments 1 to 6, each of which is summarized in a diagram. FIG. 5A graphically reproduces the results of the X-ray structure analysis of the exemplary embodiments 7 to 12.

[0068] Proof of the Ortho-Rhombic Structure

[0069] The ortho-rhombic lamellar crystalline structures listed in the present application and the hexagonal lamellar crystalline structure are detected as follows by X-ray structure analysis:

[0070] Apparatus: MARCCD-345X X-ray diffraction apparatus [0071] rotating Cu anode X-ray generator, =1.5418 [0072] Ray: Diameter: 11mm.sup.2 [0073] Transmission geometry: Beam perpendicular to the sample surface [0074] Detection: Image area camera, 23002300 pixels, pixel size: 150150 m.sup.2 [0075] Sample detector distance: 250 mm [0076] range of reticular distances: 50 to 2.7 , forward scattering vector S (=1/d): 0.020 to 0.37 .sup.1 [0077] Exposure time: 900 s. [0078] T=21 C., 40% relative room humidity Data analysis: [0079] Subtraction of the background signal (air) measured outside the sample [0080] Software: FIT2D

[0081] The samples examined, with a single peak at 4.16 in the X-ray diagram (FIG. 4), is characteristic of hexagonal crystalline lamellar structures, while those samples in which the X-ray diagram shows a first peak at 4.16 and a second peak at 3.71 (FIGS. 4, 5 and 5A) are characteristic of ortho-rhombic lamellar crystalline structures. Accordingly, formulation A (according to the invention) has an ortho-rhombic lamellar crystalline structure and the comparative formulation B has a hexagonal crystalline structure.

[0082] First Comparative Efficacy Study

[0083] A first comparative efficacy study was performed between an embodiment of the cosmetic product of the invention having an ortho-rhombic lamellar crystalline structure and a formulation having a hexagonal lamellar structure (comparative formulation).

[0084] The hydrogenated phospholipid used in this comparison contains a concentration of hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine of 93% by weight, as in the case of the embodiment examples 1 to 12 described below, 3% by weight, based on the weight of the hydrogenated phospholipid.

[0085] The composition of the formulation A according to the invention and the comparative formulation B was as follows:

TABLE-US-00001 according to the invention comparative formulation A formulation B in % Phase Ingredients in % by weight by weight 1 Hydrogenated 1.50 1.50 phospholipid 1 Isostearyl isostearates 15.00 15.00 1 Rice bran wax 1.20 0.10 1 Glycerin 99.5% 3.00 3.00 1 Pentylene glycol 5.00 5.00 2 Water 74.30 75.40 100.00 100.00

[0086] The two formulations required for the first comparative efficacy study were manufactured according to the same manufacturing process.

[0087] Phase 1 was heated to 90 C. with uniform stirring. Phase 2 was then also heated to 90 C. At 90 C., phase 2 was added to phase 1 and then homogenized at 15,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax for 3 minutes. Subsequently, the mixture was cooled to 77 C. with homogenization (12,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax) at a cooling rate of 1.5 C./min.

[0088] The resulting predispersion was finely dispersed by means of a high-pressure homogenizer. Three cycles were required at 800 bar. The mixture was then cooled to 25 C. (cooling rate 1 C./min) with stirring.

[0089] The two formulations thus prepared were subjected to the in-process control described below. Both formulations were a homogeneous dispersion having evenly sized particles.

[0090] The comparative efficacy study was performed with 10 subjects. The subjects were women between 37 and 52 years of age. The average age was 45 years. There were no test-relevant diseases or skin changes in the subjects. The transepidermal water loss served as an efficacy criterion, which was measured and evaluated with the help of the Aquaflux AF 200 measuring device (manufacturer: Biox). The evaluation and documentation was performed using the 64 bit software system provided by BIOX.

[0091] On the first day of the study, four skin areas were identified in each subject at a distance of 5 cm from the elbow flexion of the right and left forearm on an area of 22 cm. On three of the four marked skin areas, deliberate barrier disorders were generated by irritation of the respective skin area with 0.0125 ml of a 15% sodium hydroxide solution. The skin showed no irritation or injury before the application of the sodium hydroxide solution. The sodium hydroxide solution was spread with a plastic spatula onto the respective skin area. After five minutes of exposure time, the sodium hydroxide solution was removed by rinsing with isotonic sodium chloride solution, after which the irritated skin area was dabbed and allowed to air dry for 20 minutes. This skin barrier disorder thus produced was then repeated identically once again for 20 minutes, but only for an exposure time of the sodium hydroxide solution of 3 minutes. The thus treated skin was rinsed, blotted and dried as described above.

[0092] After this irritation, the skin showed a slight swelling and redness in the sense of an erythema. Deeper skin damage, which go beyond the range of the epidermis, could not be ascertained. The transepidermal water loss was determined from all four skin areas (3 damaged and comparative area) and is shown as Initial value in the following table. The transepidermal water loss after injury had an average value of 45.07 g H.sub.2O/m.sup.2. The standard deviation was 4.2 g H.sub.2O/m.sup.2.

[0093] 20 minutes after the second damage described above, the formulation A (0.01 ml, right forearm) according to the invention and the comparison formulation B (0.01 ml, left forearm) were applied to the irritated skin area by means of a microliter syringe on a damaged skin area on each arm and distributed with a spatula.

[0094] The other marked skin surfaces remained without treatment.

[0095] On the first day of the injury, 9 measurements of transepidermal water loss were performed at a time interval of 20 minutes.

[0096] On the morning of the second and the morning of the third day, the formulations to be compared were again applied to the corresponding skin areas in the manner described above.

[0097] On the second and third day after approximately five hours after further application of the formulations to be compared, transepidermal water losses were again measured. All results of the measurements are given in the table below.

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 1 Average value of transepidermal Average value of H.sub.2O loss transepidermal formulation Average value of H.sub.2O loss Transepidermal according to the transepidermal comparison H.sub.2O loss no invention H.sub.2O loss without formulation Time damage Right forearm treatment Left forearm First day Initial value 8.94 43.61 48.95 46.53 after damage 20 min after 9.31 25.99 39.93 26.77 application 40 min after 8.78 27.46 39.83 28.25 application 60 min after 9.21 27.4 41.94 25.6 application 80 min after 8.85 25.57 40.18 24.27 application 100 min 8.91 23.34 41.9 24.75 after application 120 min 9.12 21.32 39.27 23.89 after application 140 min 9.18 19.41 38.89 25.27 after application 160 min 8.87 19.09 40.79 25.25 after application second day (second application of the formulations to be compared) 24 hours 9.01 16.91 36.89 24.92 after injury third day (third application of the formulations to be compared) 48 hours 9.12 14.53 34.38 24.35 after injury

[0098] Table 1 above shows the measurement of transepidermal water loss in the first comparative efficacy study. On the first day, 20 minutes after the first application of the two formulations A and B to be compared, a clearly measurable decline in transepidermal water loss was observed. After 120 minutes after the first application on the first day, the transepidermal water loss in the formulation A according to the invention was lower than in the comparison formulation B, wherein the differences in the transepidermal water loss between the skin areas which were treated with the formulation A according to the invention and the skin areas which were treated with the conventional comparative formulation B, can be clearly seen from the measured values. This evidence intensified on the second day and on the third day so that formulation A according to the invention healed the barrier damage produced by the treatment with the sodium hydroxide solution substantially faster than the conventional comparison formulation B.

[0099] The results shown in Table 1 above are graphically shown in FIG. 6. Herein, the lower curve (denoted by 1) shows the transepidermal water loss of the non-damaged and untreated skin areas. The dotted curve (denoted by 2) represents the transepidermal water loss of the damaged skin areas subsequently treated with the formulation A according to the invention, while the illustrated curve represented by solid squares (denoted by 3) represents the transepidermal water loss of the damaged skin areas then treated with the conventional comparison formulation B. The uppermost curve (denoted by 4) represents the transepidermal water loss of the damaged but untreated skin areas.

[0100] An X-ray structure analysis was made of the formulations to be compared with regard to their composition quantified and with respect to their efficacy. The result of this X-ray structure analysis is shown in FIG. 4.

[0101] This clearly demonstrates that the formulation according to the invention has both a peak at 4.16 and at 3.71 (upper curve) and thus has ortho-rhombic lamellar crystalline structures while the conventional comparative formulation B has only a single peak at 4.16 (lower curve) and accordingly has a hexagonal lamellar crystalline structure.

[0102] Furthermore, the examples 1 to 12 described below were manufactured.

EXAMPLES

[0103] In general, it should be noted with respect to the examples 1 to 12 that all the cooling processes described therein were performed with a cooling rate of 1.5 C./min 0.5 C./min for all production processes.

[0104] In examples 1, 2, 4, 7, 8, 9 and 11, a solvent or active compound mixture of 4-t-butylcyclohexanol with pentylene glycol was used. This was the commercial product Symsitive, marketed by Symrise AG.

[0105] The in-process control described in all the examples was performed under 100-fold magnification using a light microscope (system microscope Olympus CH2, model CHT, Nikon Coolpix). The homogeneity of the respective dispersion and its uniformity were assessed visually.

[0106] The cosmetic products described in the following exemplary examples 1 to 12 were performed on a laboratory high-pressure homogenizer APV Gaulin Micron Lab 40.

Example 1

[0107] Cream for the Sensitive, Allergy-Prone Skin

TABLE-US-00003 Phase Raw material [%] 1 Hydrogenated phospholipid 1.500 1 Rice bran wax 1.000 1 Isostearly isostearates 3.000 1 Pentylene glycol 1.250 1 Glycerin 0.750 2 Water 17.500 3 Moringa butter 2.500 3 Acrylate/vinyl isodecanoate cross-polymer 0.270 3 Isostearly isostearates 8.000 3 Olus oil 5.000 4 Xanthan gum 0.100 4 Water 54.030 4 Pentylene glycol 0.750 4 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.150 4 L-serine 0.700 4 Sodium polyaspertates 0.200 4 L-glycine 0.300 4 1,2 hexanediol 1.500 5 Sodium hydroxide solution 30% 0.30 6 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, pentylene glycol (symsitive) 1.200 100.000

[0108] Phase 1 was heated to 90 C. with uniform stirring. Phase 2 was then also heated to 90 C. At 90 C., phase 2 was added to phase 1 and then homogenized at 15,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax for 3 minutes. Subsequently, the mixture was cooled to 77 C. under homogenization (12,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax) and subjected to the in-process control described at the beginning.

[0109] The mixture thus prepared had a homogeneous dispersion with uniformly large particles.

[0110] The resulting predispersion was finely dispersed by means of a high-pressure homogenizer. Three cycles were required at 800 bar. The mixture was then cooled to 35 C. with stirring. The pre-phase mixture was now forced high pressure homogenized at 300 bar (1 cycle) and temporarily stored in a separate vessel at 35 C. In the batch vessel, phase 3 was then heated with stirring to 50 C. and stirred until the lipid had completely melted. In a further container, the phase 4 was stirred at 50 C. while dispersing until a clear gel dispersion was obtained. Phase 4 was then added to phase 3 and then homogenized for 7 minutes at 20,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax at 50 C.

[0111] Subsequently, the phase 5 was added to the mixture of phase 3+4 and homogenized at 12,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax for 2 minutes. Subsequently, phase 6 was added to the mixture of phase 3+4+5 and homogenized down to the target temperature of 35 C. during a continuous homogenization process at 12,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax. This process took 12 minutes. Subsequently, the predispersion from phases 1+2 was added to the mixture from phases 3+4+5+6 and homogenized at 20,000 rpm with continuous stirring for 10 minutes. Finally, the mixture was cooled down to 25 C. under continuous homogenization at 12,000 rpm. This process took 19 minutes.

Example 2

[0112] Body Cream Lotion for Over-Sensitive, Allergy-Prone Skin

TABLE-US-00004 Phase Raw material [%] 1 Hydrogenated phospholipid 1.200 1 Rice bran wax 1.200 1 Isostearly isostearates 1.600 1 Pentylene glycol 1.000 1 Glycerin 1.600 2 Water 13.400 3 Moringa oil 4.000 3 Acrylate/vinyl isodecanoate cross-polymer 0.150 3 Isostearly isostearates 8.000 3 Caprylic/capric triglycerides 15.000 4 Xanthan gum 0.100 4 Water 47.280 4 Pentylene glycol 1.250 4 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.150 4 L-serine 0.700 4 Sodium polyaspertates 0.200 4 L-glycine 0.300 4 1,2 hexanediol 1.500 5 Sodium hydroxide solution 30% 0.17 6 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, pentylene glycol (Symsitive) 1.200 100.0

[0113] Phase 1 was heated to 90 C. with uniform stirring. Phase 2 was then also heated to 90 C. At 90 C., phase 2 was added to phase 1 and then homogenized at 15,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax for 6 minutes. Subsequently, the mixture was cooled to 77 C. under homogenization (12,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax) and subjected to the in-process control described at the beginning.

[0114] The mixture thus prepared had a homogeneous dispersion with uniformly large particles.

[0115] The resulting predispersion was finely dispersed by means of a high-pressure homogenizer. Five cycles were required at 800 bar. The mixture was then cooled to 35 C. with stirring. The pre-phase mixture was now forced high pressure homogenized at 500 bar (1 cycle) and temporarily stored in a separate vessel at 35 C. The phase 3 was then heated to 40 C. while stirring in the batch vessel. In a further container, the phase 4 was stirred at 40 C. while dispersing until a clear gel dispersion was obtained. Phase 4 was then added to phase 3 and then homogenized for 4 minutes at 12,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax at 40 C.

[0116] Subsequently, the phase 5 was added to the mixture of phase 3+4 and homogenized at 10,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax for 2 minutes. Subsequently, the phase 6 was added to the mixture of phase 3+4+5 and homogenized at 12,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax for 2 minutes. The mixture was then homogenized down to the target temperature of 35 C. during a continuous homogenization process at 12,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax. This process took 6 minutes. Subsequently, the predispersion from phases 1+2 was added to the mixture from phases 3+4+5+6 and homogenized at 15,000 rpm with continuous stirring for 5 minutes. Finally, the mixture was cooled down to 25 C. under continuous homogenization at 12,000 rpm. This process took 15 minutes.

Example 3

[0117] Protective Cream when Exposed to Extreme Environmental Influences

TABLE-US-00005 Phase Raw material [%] 1 Hydrogenated phospholipid 1.500 1 Rice bran wax 1.000 1 Isostearly isostearates 3.000 1 Pentylene glycol 1.250 1 Glycerin 0.750 2 Water 17.500 3 Moringa butter 2.000 3 Acrylate/vinyl isodecanoate cross-polymer 0.350 3 Isostearly isostearates 4.000 3 Tinosorb S (Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl 1.500 triazines) 3 Uvinul A Plus (diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl 1.500 benzoate) 3 Ronacare AP (bis-ethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxy 1.000 benzylmalonate) 4 Water 52.850 4 Pentylene glycol 0.750 4 Hyaluronic acid 400 kDa 0.400 4 Glycerin 8.000 4 L-glycine 0.500 4 1,2 hexanediol 1.500 5 Troxerutin 0.250 6 Sodium hydroxide solution 30% 0.400 100.000

[0118] Phase 1 was heated to 90 C. with uniform stirring. Phase 2 was then also heated to 90 C. At 90 C., phase 2 was added to phase 1 and then homogenized at 15,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax for 3 minutes. Subsequently, the mixture was cooled to 77 C. under homogenization (12,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax) and subjected to the in-process control described at the beginning.

[0119] The mixture thus prepared had a homogeneous dispersion with uniformly large particles.

[0120] The resulting predispersion was finely dispersed by means of a high-pressure homogenizer. Three cycles were required at 800 bar. The mixture was then cooled to 35 C. with stirring. The pre-phase mixture was now forced high pressure homogenized at 300 bar (1 cycle) and temporarily stored in a separate vessel at 35 C. The phase 3 is then heated in the batch vessel to 80 C. with stirring and stirring is continued until the UV filters are completely melted. In a further container, the phase 4 was stirred at 80 C. while dispersing until a clear gel dispersion was obtained. Phase 4 was then added to phase 3 and then homogenized for 8 minutes at 24,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax at 80 C.

[0121] Subsequently, the phase 5 was added to the mixture of phase 3+4 and homogenized at 20,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax for 4 minutes. Subsequently, the phase 6 was added to the mixture of phase 3+4+5 and homogenized at 20,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax for 5 minutes. The mixture was then homogenized down to the target temperature of 35 C. during a continuous homogenization process at 12,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax. This process took 30 minutes. Subsequently, the predispersion from phases 1+2 was added to the mixture from phases 3+4+5+6 and homogenized at 20,000 rpm with continuous stirring for 5 minutes. Finally, the mixture was cooled down to 25 C. under continuous homogenization at 18,000 rpm. This process took 17 minutes.

Example 4

[0122] Care Cream for Accompanying Adjuvant Treatment for Neurodermatitis of Diseased Skin

TABLE-US-00006 Phase Raw material [%] 1 Hydrogenated phospholipid 1.800 1 Rice bran wax 1.800 1 Isostearly isostearates 2.400 1 Pentylene glycol 1.500 1 Glycerin 1.800 2 Water 20.700 3 Moringa butter 6.000 3 Sodium carbomer 0.180 3 Boswellic acid 20% 2.500 3 Caprylic/capric triglycerides 6.000 4 Xanthan gum 0.100 4 Water 45.170 4 Pentylene glycol 1.000 4 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.150 4 L-serine 0.700 4 Niacinamide 4.000 4 Sodium polyaspertates 0.200 4 L-glycine 0.300 4 1,2 hexanediol 1.500 4 Butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hydroxyphenyl 1.000 propamidobenzoic acid (Symcalmine) 5 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, pentylene glycol (symsitive) 1.200 100.000

[0123] Phase 1 was heated to 90 C. with uniform stirring. Phase 2 was then also heated to 90 C. At 90 C., phase 2 was added to phase 1 and then homogenized at 15,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax for 8 minutes. Subsequently, the mixture was cooled to 77 C. under homogenization (12,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax) and subjected to the in-process control described at the beginning.

[0124] The mixture thus prepared had an inhomogeneous dispersion with unequally large particles.

[0125] For this reason, the mixture was again heated to 90 C. with stirring and then homogenized at 18,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax for 5 minutes and the mixture was cooled to 77 C. with homogenization (18,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax).

[0126] The new in-process control gave a homogeneous dispersion with uniformly large particles.

[0127] The resulting predispersion was finely dispersed by means of a high-pressure homogenizer. Five cycles were required at 800 bar. The mixture was then cooled to 35 C. with stirring. The pre-phase mixture was now forced high pressure homogenized at 600 bar (1 cycle) and temporarily stored in a separate vessel at 35 C. The phase 3 was then heated to 50 C. while stirring in the batch vessel. In a further container, the phase 4 was stirred at 50 C. while dispersing until a clear gel dispersion was obtained. Phase 4 was then added to phase 3 and then homogenized for 3 minutes at 18,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax at 50 C.

[0128] Subsequently, the phase 5 was added to the mixture of phase 3+4 and homogenized at 20,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax for 5 minutes. The mixture was then homogenized down to the target temperature of 35 C. during a continuous homogenization process at 15,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax. This process took 14 minutes. Subsequently, the predispersion from phases 1+2 was added to the mixture from phases 3+4+5 and homogenized at 20,000 rpm with continuous stirring for 7 minutes. Finally, the mixture was cooled down to 25 C. under continuous homogenization at 20,000 rpm. This process took 18 minutes.

Example 5

[0129] Sunscreen for Skin Tending to PLD (Polymorphic Light Dermatosis)

TABLE-US-00007 Phase Raw material [%] 1 Hydrogenated phospholipid 1.500 1 Ilex Paraguariensis leaf wax 1.000 1 Caprylic/capric triglycerides 2.000 1 Pentylene glycol 1.500 1 Glycerin 1.000 2 Water 20.700 3 Octocrylene 7.000 3 PVP/Eicosene Copolymer 0.100 3 Acrylate/vinyl isodecanoate cross-polymer 0.350 3 Tinosorb S (Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol 3.800 methoxyphenyl triazines) 3 Uvinul A Plus (diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl 3.800 hexyl benzoate) 3 Ronacare AP (bis-ethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxy 1.000 benzylmalonate) 3 C12-15 alkyl benzoates 2.000 3 Dicaprylyl carbonates 4.000 4 Xanthan gum 0.100 4 Water 47.100 4 Pentylene glycol 1.000 4 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.150 4 1,2 hexanediol 1.500 5 Sodium hydroxide solution 30% 0.400 100.000

[0130] Phase 1 was heated to 86 C. with uniform stirring. Phase 2 was then also heated to 86 C. At 86 C., phase 2 was added to phase 1 and then homogenized at 15,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax for 4 minutes. Subsequently, the mixture was cooled to 75 C. under homogenization (10,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax) and subjected to the in-process control described at the beginning.

[0131] The mixture thus prepared had a homogeneous dispersion with uniformly large particles.

[0132] The resulting predispersion was finely dispersed by means of a high-pressure homogenizer. Three cycles were required at 800 bar. The mixture was then cooled to 35 C. with stirring. The pre-phase mixture was now forced high pressure homogenized at 300 bar (1 cycle) and temporarily stored in a separate vessel at 35 C. The phase 3 is then heated in the batch vessel to 80 C. with stirring and stirring continued until the UV filters are completely melted. In a further container, the phase 4 was stirred at 80 C. while dispersing until a clear gel dispersion was obtained. Phase 4 was then added to phase 3 and then homogenized for 10 minutes at 24,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax at 80 C.

[0133] Subsequently, the phase 5 was added to the mixture of phase 3+4 and homogenized at 18,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax for 5 minutes. The mixture was then homogenized down to the target temperature of 35 C. during a continuous homogenization process at 24,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax. This process took 34 minutes. Subsequently, the predispersion from phases 1+2 was added to the mixture from phases 3+4+5 and homogenized at 24,000 rpm with continuous stirring for 7 minutes. Finally, the mixture was cooled down to 25 C. under continuous homogenization at 15,000 rpm. This process took 16 minutes.

Example 6

[0134] Lip Care Cream for Herpes Inclination

TABLE-US-00008 Phase Raw material [%] 1 Hydrogenated phospholipid 2.000 1 Carnauba wax 2.000 1 Isostearly isostearates 2.500 1 Pentylene glycol 1.800 1 Glycerin 3.000 2 Water 23.200 3 Moringa butter 2.000 3 Acrylate/vinyl isodecanoate cross-polymer 0.150 3 Isostearly isostearates 4.000 3 Tinosorb S (Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl 2.800 triazines) 3 Uvinul A Plus (diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl 2.800 benzoate) 3 Ronacare AP (bis-ethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxy 1.000 benzylmalonate) 4 Water 42.530 4 Xanthan gum 0.100 4 Pentylene glycol 0.200 4 Glycerin 8.000 4 1,2 hexanediol 1.500 5 Troxerutin 0.250 6 Sodium hydroxide solution 30% 0.17 100.000

[0135] Phase 1 was heated to 92 C. with uniform stirring. Phase 2 was then also heated to 92 C. At 92 C., phase 2 was added to phase 1 and then homogenized at 15,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax for 12 minutes. Subsequently, the mixture was cooled to 77 C. under homogenization (13,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax) and subjected to the in-process control described at the beginning.

[0136] The mixture thus prepared had an inhomogeneous dispersion with unequally large particles.

[0137] For this reason, the mixture was again heated to 92 C. with stirring and then homogenized at 18,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax for 9 minutes and the mixture was cooled to 77 C. with homogenization (18,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax). The new in-process control gave a homogeneous dispersion with uniformly large particles.

[0138] The resulting predispersion was finely dispersed by means of a high-pressure homogenizer. Three cycles were required at 800 bar. The mixture was then cooled to 35 C. with stirring. The pre-phase mixture was now forced high pressure homogenized at 700 bar (1 cycle) and temporarily stored in a separate vessel at 35 C.

[0139] The phase 3 is then heated in the batch vessel to 80 C. with stirring and stirring continued until the UV filters are completely melted. In a further container, the phase 4 was stirred at 80 C. while dispersing until a clear gel dispersion was obtained. Phase 5 was then added to phase 4 with continuous stirring and stirring was continued until a clear dispersion had formed. Phase 4 was then added to phase 3 and then homogenized for 5 minutes at 18,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax at 80 C.

[0140] Subsequently, the phase 6 was added to the mixture of phase 3+4+5 and homogenized at 24,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax for 5 minutes. The mixture was then homogenized down to the target temperature of 35 C. during a continuous homogenization process at 24,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax. This process took 19 minutes. Subsequently, the predispersion from phases 1+2 was added to the mixture from phases 3+4+5+6 and homogenized at 24,000 rpm with continuous stirring for 11 minutes. Finally, the mixture was cooled down to 25 C. under continuous homogenization at 18,000 rpm. This process took 19 minutes.

[0141] Also, from these embodiments 1 to 6, X-ray structure analyses were performed under the conditions described above. The result of this X-ray structure analysis is summarized in FIG. 5.

[0142] This clearly proves that the formulations according to the invention according to examples 1 to 6 all have a peak at 4.16 and at 3.71 , and thus all formulations contain ortho-rhombic lamellar crystalline structures.

Example 7

[0143] Cream for the Skin that Tends to Hyperreactivity

TABLE-US-00009 Phase Raw material [%] 1 Hydrogenated phospholipid 1.750 1 Carnauba wax 0.950 1 Ficus Cerifera wax 0.620 1 Isostearly isostearates 4.500 1 Pentylene glycol 1.250 1 Glycerol 99.5% 0.750 2 Water 16.180 3 Moringa butter 5.000 3 Acrylate/vinyl isodecanoate cross- 0.280 polymer 3 Isostearly isostearates 1.000 3 Olus oil 5.000 4 Xanthan gum 0.100 4 Water 52.220 4 Pentylene glycol 0.750 4 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.150 4 Glycerol 99.5% 6.000 4 Sodium PCA Lsg. 50% 0.200 4 L-glycine 0.300 4 1,2 hexanediol 1.500 5 Sodium hydroxide solution 30% 0.300 6 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, Pentylene glycol 1.200 (Symsitive) 100.000

[0144] Phase 1 was heated to 85 C. with uniform stirring. Phase 2 was then also heated to 90 C. At 85 C., phase 2 was added to phase 1 and then homogenized at 15,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax for 5 minutes. Subsequently, the mixture was cooled to 78 C. under homogenization (12,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax) and subjected to the in-process control described at the beginning.

[0145] The mixture thus prepared had a homogeneous dispersion with uniformly large particles.

[0146] The resulting predispersion was finely dispersed by means of a high-pressure homogenizer. Three cycles are required at 800 bar. The mixture was then cooled to 35 C. with stirring and uniform homogenization at 9,000 rpm (Ultra Turrax). The pre-phase mixture was now forced high pressure homogenized at 350 bar (1 cycle) and temporarily stored in a separate vessel at 35 C. In the batch vessel, phase 3 was then heated with stirring to 55 C. and stirred until the lipid had completely melted. In a further container, the phase 4 was stirred at 55 C. while dispersing until a clear gel dispersion was obtained. Phase 4 was then added to phase 3 and then homogenized for 6 minutes at 20,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax at 50 C.

[0147] Subsequently, the phase 5 was added to the mixture of phase 3+4 and homogenized at 12,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax for 3 minutes. Subsequently, phase 6 was added to the mixture of phase 3+4+5 and homogenized down to the target temperature of 35 C. during a continuous homogenization process at 12,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax. This process took 16 minutes. Subsequently, the predispersion from phases 1+2 was added to the mixture from phases 3+4+5+6 and homogenized at 22,000 rpm with continuous stirring for 10 minutes. Finally, the mixture was cooled down to 25 C. under continuous homogenization at 12,000 rpm. This process took 21 minutes.

Example 8

[0148] Cream for the Prevention of Hypertrophic Scarring

TABLE-US-00010 Phase Raw material [%] 1 Hydrogenated phospholipid 1.800 1 Bamboo Oideae wax 0.750 1 Carnauba wax 1.050 1 Isostearly isostearates 3.500 1 Pentylene glycol 1.500 1 Glycerol 99.5% 1.000 2 Water 20.400 3 Moringa butter 2.000 3 Eusolex 9020 5.000 3 Tinosorb S 3.800 3 Octocrylene 7.000 3 Uvinul A Plus 3.800 3 TiO2 1.500 3 Acrylate/vinyl isodecanoate cross- 0.250 polymer 3 Finsolv TN 6.000 3 Olus oil 3.000 4 Xanthan gum 0.100 4 Water 24.480 4 Pentylene glycol 0.750 4 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.150 4 Glycerol 99.5% 3.000 4 Ectoin 1.000 4 Madecassoside 0.200 4 1,2 hexanediol 1.500 5 Sodium hydroxide solution 30% 0.270 6 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, Pentylene glycol 1.200 (Symsitive) 6 Polyhexane (water, snail secretion filtrate, 5.000 propylene glycol, glycerine, glycosaminoglycans, allantoin, hydrolyzed collagen, pyridoxine hcl, poxethanol) 100.000

[0149] Phase 1 was heated to 85 C. with uniform stirring. Phase 2 was then also heated to 90 C. At 85 C., phase 2 was added to phase 1 and then homogenized at 15,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax for 5 minutes. Subsequently, the mixture was cooled to 78 C. under homogenization (12,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax) and subjected to the in-process control described at the beginning.

[0150] The mixture thus prepared had a homogeneous dispersion with uniformly large particles.

[0151] The resulting predispersion was finely dispersed by means of a high-pressure homogenizer. Three cycles were required at 800 bar. The mixture was then cooled to 35 C. with stirring and uniform homogenization at 9,000 rpm (Ultra Turrax). The pre-phase mixture was now forced high pressure homogenized at 350 bar (1 cycle) and temporarily stored in a separate vessel at 35 C. The phase 3 was then heated in the batch vessel to 85 C. with stirring and stirring continued until the lipid UV filters were completely melted. In a further container, the phase 4 was stirred at 85 C. while dispersing until a clear gel dispersion was obtained. Phase 4 was then added to phase 3 and then homogenized for 6 minutes at 20,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax at 85 C.

[0152] Subsequently, the phase 5 was added to the mixture of phase 3+4 and homogenized at 18,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax for 3 minutes. The dispersion from phases 3+4+5 was then cooled to 50 C. at 18,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax. Subsequently, phase 6 was added to the mixture of phase 3+4+5 and homogenized down to the target temperature of 35 C. during a continuous homogenization process at 18,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax. This process took 20 minutes. Subsequently, the predispersion from phases 1+2 was added to the mixture from phases 3+4+5+6 and homogenized at 24,000 rpm with continuous stirring for 14 minutes. Finally, the mixture was cooled down to 25 C. under continuous homogenization at 18,000 rpm. This process took 17 minutes.

Example 9

[0153] Cream for the Prevention of Actinic Keratoses

TABLE-US-00011 Phase Raw material [%] 1 Hydrogenated phospholipid 1.800 1 Carnauba wax 1.200 1 Isostearly isostearates 3.500 1 Pentylene glycol 1.500 1 Glycerol 99.5% 1.000 2 Water 21.000 3 Eusolex 9020 5.000 3 Tinosorb S 3.800 3 Octocrylene 7.000 3 Uvinul A Plus 3.800 3 TiO2 1.500 3 Ronacare AP 1.000 3 Acrylate/vinyl isodecanoate cross- 0.260 polymer 3 Finsolv TN 9.000 3 Olus oil 3.000 4 Xanthan gum 0.100 4 Water 28.310 4 Pentylene glycol 0.750 4 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.150 4 Glycerol 99.5% 3.000 4 Ronacare Troxerutin 0.250 4 Spectrastate PHL 1.600 5 Sodium hydroxide solution 30% 0.280 6 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, Pentylene glycol 1.200 (Symsitive) 100.000

[0154] Phase 1 was heated to 85 C. with uniform stirring. Phase 2 was then also heated to 90 C. At 85 C., phase 2 was added to phase 1 and then homogenized at 15,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax for 5 minutes. Subsequently, the mixture was cooled to 78 C. under homogenization (12,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax) and subjected to the in-process control described at the beginning.

[0155] The mixture thus prepared had a homogeneous dispersion with uniformly large particles.

[0156] The resulting predispersion was finely dispersed by means of a high-pressure homogenizer. Three cycles are required at 800 bar. The mixture was then cooled to 35 C. with stirring and uniform homogenization at 9,000 rpm (Ultra Turrax). The pre-phase mixture was now forced high pressure homogenized at 350 bar (1 cycle) and temporarily stored in a separate vessel at 35 C.

[0157] The phase 3 was then heated in the batch vessel to 85 C. with stirring and stirring continued until the lipid UV filters were completely melted. In a further container, the phase 4 was stirred at 85 C. while dispersing until a clear, yellowish gel dispersion was obtained. Phase 4 was then added to phase 3 and then homogenized for 5 minutes at 18,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax at 85 C.

[0158] Subsequently, the phase 5 was added to the mixture of phase 3+4 and homogenized at 18,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax for 5 minutes. The dispersion from phases 3+4+5 was then cooled to 50 C. at 18,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax. Subsequently, phase 6 was added to the mixture of phase 3+4+5 and homogenized down to the target temperature of 35 C. during a continuous homogenization process at 18,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax. This process took 17 minutes. Subsequently, the predispersion from phases 1+2 was added to the mixture from phases 3+4+5+6 and homogenized at 20,000 rpm with continuous stirring for 16 minutes. Finally, the mixture was cooled down to 25 C. under continuous homogenization at 18,000 rpm. This process took 14 minutes.

Example 10

[0159] Care Cream for the Prevention of Light-Induced Skin Aging Symptoms

TABLE-US-00012 Phase Raw material [%] 1 Hydrogenated phospholipid 1.200 1 Carnauba wax 0.800 1 Isostearly isostearates 2.400 1 Pentylene glycol 1.000 1 Glycerol 99.5% 0.600 2 Water 14.000 3 Moringa butter 1.000 3 Finsolv TN 2.500 3 Crodamol ISIS-LQ-(MV) 1.000 3 Myritol 312 3.000 3 Tinosorb S 1.500 3 Uvinul A Plus 1.500 3 Stabylene 30 0.250 3 Smartgel P110 0.300 3 Amaze XT 0.100 4 osmosis water 49.486 4 RonaCare (R) Troxerutin 0.250 4 Glycerol 99% Ph. Eur. anhydrous 8.000 4 Raya Hyaluron LMW (50 kDa) 0.100 4 Hydrolite-5 1.000 5 Osmosis water 5.000 5 Niacinamide PC 2.000 6 Hydrolite-6 0.300 7 Spectrastat (TM) PHL 1.600 8 Ronacare AP 1.000 9 Sodium hydroxide 32% solution 0.114 100.000

[0160] Phase 1 was heated to 85 C. with uniform stirring. Phase 2 was then also heated to 90 C. At 85 C., phase 2 was added to phase 1 and then homogenized at 15,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax for 5 minutes. Subsequently, the mixture was cooled to 78 C. under homogenization (12,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax) and subjected to the in-process control described at the beginning.

[0161] The mixture thus prepared had a homogeneous dispersion with uniformly large particles.

[0162] The resulting predispersion was finely dispersed by means of a high-pressure homogenizer. Three cycles were required at 800 bar. The mixture was then cooled to 35 C. with stirring and uniform homogenization at 9,000 rpm (Ultra Turrax). The pre-phase mixture was now forced high pressure homogenized at 350 bar (1 cycle) and temporarily stored in a separate vessel at 35 C.

[0163] The phase 3 was then heated in the batch vessel to 85 C. with stirring and stirring continued until the lipid UV filters were completely melted. In a further container, the phase 4 was stirred at 85 C. while dispersing until a clear, yellowish gel dispersion was obtained. Phase 4 was then added to phase 3 and then homogenized for 5 minutes at 18,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax at 85 C.

[0164] Subsequently, the phase 5 was added to the mixture of phase 3+4 and homogenized at 18,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax for 5 minutes. The dispersion from phases 3+4+5 was then cooled to 50 C. at 18,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax. Subsequently, phase 6 was added to the mixture of phase 3+4+5 and homogenized down to the target temperature of 35 C. during a continuous homogenization process at 18,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax. This process took 17 minutes. Subsequently, the predispersion from phases 1+2 was added to the mixture from phases 3+4+5+6 and homogenized at 20,000 rpm with continuous stirring for 16 minutes. Finally, the mixture is cooled down to 25 C. under continuous homogenization at 18,000 rpm. This process took 14 minutes.

Example 11

[0165] Light Protection Cream for the Skin Tending to Polymorphous Light Dermatosis

TABLE-US-00013 Phase Raw material [%] 1 Hydrogenated phospholipid 1.500 1 Carnauba wax 1.500 1 Isostearly isostearates 2.900 1 Pentylene glycol 1.250 1 Glycerol 99.5% 0.600 2 Water 17.200 3 Eusolex 9020 3.500 3 Tinosorb S 2.500 3 Octocrylene 10.000 3 Uvinul A Plus 2.500 3 TiO2 2.500 3 Acrylate/vinyl isodecanoate cross-polymer 0.260 3 Finsolv TN 5.000 3 Olus oil 5.000 4 Xanthan gum 0.100 4 Water 34.260 4 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.150 4 Glycerol 99.5% 5.000 4 Ronacare Troxerutin 0.250 4 Spectrastate PHL 1.600 5 Sodium hydroxide solution 30% 0.280 6 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, Pentylene glycol (Symsitive) 1.200 6 Tetrahydrocurum cuminoid (THC) 0.200 6 Pentylene glycol 0.750 100.000

[0166] Phase 1 was heated to 85 C. with uniform stirring. Phase 2 was then also heated to 90 C. At 85 C., phase 2 was added to phase 1 and then homogenized at 15,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax for 5 minutes. Subsequently, the mixture was cooled to 78 C. under homogenization (12,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax) and subjected to the in-process control described at the beginning.

[0167] The mixture thus prepared had a homogeneous dispersion with uniformly large particles.

[0168] The resulting predispersion was finely dispersed by means of a high-pressure homogenizer. Three cycles were required at 800 bar. The mixture was then cooled to 35 C. with stirring and uniform homogenization at 9,000 rpm (Ultra Turrax). The pre-phase mixture was now forced high pressure homogenized at 350 bar (1 cycle) and temporarily stored in a separate vessel at 35 C.

[0169] The phase 3 was then heated in the batch vessel to 85 C. with stirring and stirring continued until the lipid UV filters were completely melted. In a further container, the phase 4 was stirred at 85 C. while dispersing until a clear, yellowish gel dispersion was obtained. Phase 4 was then added to phase 3 and then homogenized for 5 minutes at 16,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax at 85 C.

[0170] Subsequently, the phase 5 was added to the mixture of phase 3+4 and homogenized at 18,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax for 5 minutes. The dispersion from phases 3+4+5 was then cooled to 45 C. at 16,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax. Subsequently, the phase 6 was stirred at 45 C. to give a complete solution. Subsequently, this phase was added to the mixture of phase 3+4+5 and homogenized down to the target temperature of 35 C. during a continuous homogenization process at 16,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax. This process took 17 minutes. Subsequently, the predispersion from phases 1+2 was added to the mixture from phases 3+4+5+6 and homogenized at 16,000 rpm with continuous stirring for 16 minutes. Finally, the mixture was cooled down to 25 C. under continuous homogenization at 16,000 rpm. This process took 12 minutes.

Example 12

[0171] Care Cream for the Over-Sensitive Skin, Tending to Dryness and Irritation

TABLE-US-00014 Phase Raw material [%] 1 Hydrogenated phospholipid 1.500 1 Carnauba wax 1.000 1 Isostearly isostearates 3.000 1 Pentylene glycol 1.250 1 Glycerol 99.5% 0.750 2 Water 17.500 3 Crodamol ISIS-LQ-(MV) 2.000 3 Moringa butter 1.500 3 Cetiol SB 45 4.500 4 Cegesoft PS6 7.500 4 Soothex 20 CQ U/A 2.500 5 Antaron V-220 F 0.100 5 Stabylene 30 0.270 5 Amaze XT 0.050 6 Osmosis water 39.870 6 Glycerol 99% Ph. Eur. anhydrous 8.000 6 Niacinamide PC 2.000 6 Natrosol 250GR 0.150 6 Symcalmin 1.000 7 Symsitive 1609 0.400 8 Osmosis water 2.000 8 L-serine 0.700 8 Glycine (L) 0.300 8 Sodium polyaspartate C-LC/SD-PC 0.100 9 Spectrastat (TM) PHL 1.600 9 Hydrolite-6 0.300 10 Sodium hydroxide 32% solution 0.160 100.000

[0172] Phase 1 was heated to 85 C. with uniform stirring. Phase 2 was then also heated to 90 C. At 85 C., phase 2 was added to phase 1 and then homogenized at 15,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax for 5 minutes. Subsequently, the mixture was cooled to 78 C. under homogenization (12,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax) and subjected to the in-process control described at the beginning.

[0173] The mixture thus prepared had a homogeneous dispersion with uniformly large particles.

[0174] The resulting predispersion was finely dispersed by means of a high-pressure homogenizer. Three cycles were required at 800 bar. The mixture was then cooled to 35 C. with stirring and uniform homogenization at 9,000 rpm (Ultra Turrax). The pre-phase mixture was now forced high pressure homogenized at 350 bar (1 cycle) and temporarily stored in a separate vessel at 35 C.

[0175] The phase 3 was then heated in the batch vessel to 50 C. with stirring and stirring continued until the lipid components were completely melted. In a further container, the phase 6 was also brought to 50 C. with stirring and stirred until a clear gel dispersion was obtained.

[0176] Phases 4 and 5 were then added to phase 3 with stirring and directly thereafter phase 6 was added to the phase mixture. The mixture was then homogenized at 50 C. for 18 minutes at 18,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax for 5 minutes.

[0177] Subsequently, the phases 7, 8 and 9 were added to the mixture of phase 3+4+5+6 and homogenized at 18,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax for 8 minutes. The dispersion from phases 3+4+5+6+7+8+9 was then cooled to 45 C. at 18,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax. Subsequently, phase 10 was added to the mixture of phase 3+4+5+6+7+8+9 and homogenized down to the target temperature of 35 C. during a continuous homogenization process at 18,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax. This process took 14 minutes. Subsequently, the predispersion from phases 1+2 was added to the mixture from phases 3+4+5+6+7+8+9+10 and homogenized at 18,000 rpm with continuous stirring for 18 minutes. Finally, the mixture was cooled down to 25 C. under continuous homogenization at 18,000 rpm. This process took 11 minutes.

[0178] Second Efficacy Study

[0179] A second efficacy study was performed as a capsaicin sensitivity short study on five subjects, wherein a conventional product C formulated as a standard emulsion, a product D formulated according to the invention, in which the hydrogenated phospholipid was at least partially present in an ortho-rhombic lamellar crystalline structure, and a further conventional product E with hexagonal lamellar crystalline structure of the phospholipid were compared with one another. All three products C to E had an identical concentration of 4-t-butylcyclohexanol.

[0180] For this short study, five subjects (4 male, 1 female) with an average age of 39 years were used.

[0181] First, the left and right nasolabial folds of each subject were cleaned with a 2% sodium lauryl sulfate solution. For this purpose, 0.2 ml of the 2% sodium lauryl sulfate solution was applied to the left and right nasolabial folds and was massaged gently for 5 seconds per test field. Subsequently, the surfaces were carefully washed for two minutes under running warm water (temperature 35 C.2 C.). Care was taken that the wash solution was completely removed. Subsequently, the correspondingly characterized nasolabial fold regions were dried by means of a soft, commercially available paper towel by careful, uniform dabbing. After a further 10 minutes, 0.05 g each of the products C and D (left and right of the nose) were applied and gently massaged.

[0182] After 8 to 10 minutes, 0.02 g of a liquid capsaicin extract was applied by pipette to all test fields, wherein this capsaicin liquid extract to be purchased was diluted 3% in a ratio of 1:10 with sunflower oil.

[0183] After 3 minutes, each subject assessed subjectively, but without influence by fellow test subjects, the intensity of burning and stinging, with the meaning zero=no burning/stinging, 1=mild burning/stinging, 2=moderate burning/stinging and 3=painful or very unpleasant burning/stinging.

[0184] After four days, the short study was repeated with the same five subjects, wherein the only difference to the previously described first part of the short study was not the products C and D compared with each other, but rather the products D and E.

[0185] The product C had the following ingredients and was prepared as follows:

[0186] Ingredients of the Formulation C

TABLE-US-00015 Phase Raw material [%] 1 Emulgin SML 20 1.800 1 Caprylic/capric triglycerides 18.000 1 Pentylene glycol 5.000 1 Glycerol 99.5% 1.000 1 Acrylate/vinyl isodecanoate cross-polymer 0.300 1 Sodium carbomer 0.300 2 Water 72.400 3 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, Pentylene glycol (Symsitive) 1.200 100.000

[0187] Phase 1 was heated to 25 C. with uniform stirring. The gel bodies were dispersed uniformly in the phase. Phase 2 was then also heated to 25 C. Phase 2 was then added to phase 1 and then homogenized at 16,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax for 5 minutes and subjected to microscopic in-process control.

[0188] The resulting mixture had a homogeneous dispersion with uniformly smallest particles.

[0189] Subsequently, the phase 3 was added to the mixture of phase 1+2 and homogenized at 19,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax for 5 minutes. After this time, an even dispersion had developed.

[0190] The product D had the following ingredients and was prepared as follows:

TABLE-US-00016 Phase Raw material [%] 1 Hydrogenated phospholipid 1.800 1 Carnauba wax 1.500 1 Isostearly isostearates 3.500 1 Pentylene glycol 1.500 1 Glycerol 99.5% 1.000 2 Water 20.700 3 Moringa butter 5.000 3 Acrylate/vinyl isodecanoate cross-polymer 0.280 3 Isostearly isostearates 8.000 4 Xanthan gum 0.100 4 Water 46.720 4 Pentylene glycol 0.750 4 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.150 4 Glycerol 99.5% 6.000 4 1,2 hexanediol 1.500 5 Sodium hydroxide solution 30% 0.300 6 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, Pentylene glycol (Symsitive) 1.200 100.000

[0191] Phase 1 was heated to 85 C. with uniform stirring. Phase 2 was then also heated to 90 C. At 85 C., phase 2 was added to phase 1 and then homogenized at 16,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax for 5 minutes. The mixture was then cooled to 78 C. under homogenization (14,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax) and subjected to microscopic in-process control.

[0192] The mixture thus prepared had a homogeneous dispersion with uniformly large particles.

[0193] The resulting predispersion was finely dispersed by means of a high-pressure homogenizer. Three cycles were required at 800 bar. The mixture was then cooled to 35 C. with stirring and uniform homogenization at 10,000 rpm (Ultra Turrax). The pre-phase mixture was now forced high pressure homogenized at 350 bar (1 cycle) and temporarily stored in a separate vessel at 35 C.

[0194] The phase 3 is then heated in the batch vessel to 50 C. with stirring and stirring continued until the lipid components are completely melted. In a further container, the phase 4 was stirred at 50 C. while dispersing until a clear, yellowish gel dispersion was obtained. Phase 4 was then added to phase 3 and then homogenized for 5 minutes at 19,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax at 85 C.

[0195] Subsequently, the phase 5 was added to the mixture of phase 3+4 and homogenized at 19,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax for 5 minutes. The dispersion from phases 3+4+5 was then cooled to 45 C. at 18,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax. Subsequently, phase 6 was added to the mixture of phase 3+4+5 and homogenized down to the target temperature of 35 C. during a continuous homogenization process at 18,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax. This process took 16 minutes. Subsequently, the predispersion from phases 1+2 was added to the mixture from phases 3+4+5+6 and homogenized at 20,000 rpm with continuous stirring for 18 minutes. Finally, the mixture was cooled down to 25 C. under continuous homogenization at 18,000 rpm. This process took 16 minutes.

[0196] The product E had the following ingredients and was prepared as follows:

TABLE-US-00017 Phase Raw material [%] 1 Hydrogenated phospholipid 1.800 1 Caprylic/capric triglycerides 5.000 1 Pentylene glycol 1.500 1 Glycerol 99.5% 1.000 2 Water 20.700 3 Moringa butter 5.000 3 Acrylate/vinyl isodecanoate cross-polymer 0.280 3 Isostearly isostearates 8.000 4 Xanthan gum 0.100 4 Water 46.720 4 Pentylene glycol 0.750 4 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.150 4 Glycerol 99.5% 6.000 4 1,2 hexanediol 1.500 5 Sodium hydroxide solution 30% 0.300 6 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, Pentylene glycol (Symsitive) 1.200 100.000

[0197] Phase 1 was heated to 85 C. with uniform stirring. Phase 2 was then also heated to 90 C. At 85 C., phase 2 was added to phase 1 and then homogenized at 12,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax for 5 minutes. Subsequently, the mixture was cooled to 78 C. under homogenization (12,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax) and subjected to the in-process control described at the beginning.

[0198] The mixture thus prepared had a homogeneous dispersion with uniformly large particles.

[0199] The resulting predispersion was finely dispersed by means of a high-pressure homogenizer. Two cycles were required at 790 bar. The mixture was then cooled to 35 C. with stirring and uniform homogenization at 8,000 rpm (Ultra Turrax). The pre-phase mixture was now forced high pressure homogenized at 100 bar (1 cycle) and temporarily stored in a separate vessel at 35 C.

[0200] The phase 3 is then heated in the batch vessel to 50 C. with stirring and stirring continued until the lipid components are completely melted. In a further container, the phase 4 was stirred at 50 C. while dispersing until a clear, yellowish gel dispersion was obtained. Phase 4 was then added to phase 3 and then homogenized for 5 minutes at 19,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax at 85 C.

[0201] Subsequently, the phase 5 was added to the mixture of phase 3+4 and homogenized at 19,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax for 5 minutes. The dispersion from phases 3+4+5 was then cooled to 45 C. at 18,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax. Subsequently, phase 6 was added to the mixture of phase 3+4+5 and homogenized down to the target temperature of 35 C. during a continuous homogenization process at 18,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax. This process took 16 minutes. Subsequently, the predispersion from phases 1+2 was added to the mixture from phases 3+4+5+6 and homogenized at 16,000 rpm with continuous stirring for 14 minutes. Finally, the mixture is cooled down to 25 C. under continuous homogenization at 14,000 rpm. This process took 12 minutes.

[0202] The result of this second efficacy study is summarized in Tables 2 and 3 below.

TABLE-US-00018 TABLE 2 Product D Product C (ortho rhombic) Test person Burn Sting Burn Sting 1 2 3 1 1 2 2 3 1 1 3 3 3 2 2 4 2 3 1 1 5 3 3 2 1 MW 2.4 2.8 1.4 1.2

TABLE-US-00019 TABLE 3 Product D Product E (ortho rhombic) (hexagonal) Test person Burn Sting Burn Sting 1 1 1 2 1 2 1 2 2 2 3 2 2 2 2 4 1 1 2 1 5 1 1 2 2 MW 1.2 1.4 2.0 1.6

[0203] The above-described X-ray structure studies were conducted for the products D and E, with the result that the product D had two peaks at 4.16 and at 3.71 , thus containing an ortho-rhombic lamellar crystalline structure while the product E in the X-ray diagram showed only a single peak at 4.16 , and thus containing only a hexagonal lamellar crystalline structure.

[0204] The clear superiority of the formulation according to the invention is also clearly demonstrated by this second efficacy study.

[0205] Further studies on the stratum corneum, isolated from human skin

[0206] In order to investigate the physiological influence of compositions which on the one hand have the known hexagonal lamellar crystalline structures and on the other hand the ortho-rhombic lamellar crystalline structures frequently described in the present text, on the damaged skin in view of its influence on structural changes, the study described in the following was performed. For this purpose, reference is made in the literature, particularly in the publication by J. C. Garson et al in J. Invest. Dermatol. 96: 43-49, 1991, which recommends the use of delipidated stratum corneum, since this is closest to the in vivo skin condition.

[0207] The study was performed with an X-ray scattering synchrotron microbeam source that allows detection of small and wide angle scattering patterns on a stratum corneum sample with a spatial resolution of 1 micrometer. Stratum corneum was isolated from skin tissue, obtained by abdominal plastic surgery, by separation from the epidermis by immersion in water at 56 C. and subsequent tryptic digestion at 40 C. Subsequently, a portion was degreased of the intercellular stratum corneum lipids by 6 h extraction in chloroform/methanol (2:1).

[0208] Two products F and G described in more detail below were applied in an amount of 3 mg/cm.sup.2 to the external side of the stratum corneum treated in the manner described above, and 0.53 mm large pieces were clamped into the holding device.

[0209] The technical parameters for this X-ray structure study, taking into account the previously mentioned publication, were as follows: [0210] Experiments were performed on ESRF Beamline ID13 [0211] Energy: 13.6 keV, i.e. =0.9117 , mode 16 bunches [0212] Beam size: cross-section 1.5(v)2(h)m.sup.2 [0213] Transmission geometry: Ray parallel to the surface of the stratum corneum [0214] Detection: Frelon camera, pixel size: 5050 m.sup.2 [0215] Distance pattern detector: 133.9 mm [0216] Range of reticular distances: 15 to 0.3 nm, e.g.: for the scatter vector S(=1/d): 0.070 to 3.3 nm.sup.1 [0217] Exposure time: 0.5 seconds [0218] For each sample, the scattering data were collected along 3D scans, over the total thickness of the stratum corneum (340 positions at a distance of 2 m), 3 scans/sample at 3 different positions were performed, T=22.5 C., relative humidity 30%.

[0219] Data analysis [0220] right-angled integration along the narrow-angle equator (parallel to the surface of the stratum corneum) [0221] angular integration (20 to +20) along the wide-angle meridian (perpendicular to the surface of the stratum corneum) [0222] Data analysis with FIT2D software

[0223] The products F and G used in this study had the following ingredients:

TABLE-US-00020 Formulation according to the invention conventional Product F product G Phase Raw material [%] [%] 1 Hydrogenated phospholipid 1.800 1.800 1 Carnauba wax 1.500 0.000 1 Caprylic/capric triglycerides 0.000 1.500 1 Isostearly isostearates 3.500 3.500 1 Pentylene glycol 1.500 1.500 1 Glycerol 99.5% 1.000 1.000 2 Water 20.700 20.700 3 Moringa butter 5.000 5.000 3 Acrylate/vinyl isodecanoate 0.280 0.280 cross-polymer 3 Isostearly isostearates 8.000 8.000 4 Xanthan gum 0.100 0.100 4 Water 46.720 46.720 4 Pentylene glycol 0.750 0.750 4 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.150 0.150 4 Glycerol 99.5% 6.000 6.000 4 1,2 hexanediol 1.500 1.500 5 Sodium hydroxide solution 30% 0.300 0.300 6 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, Pentylene 1.200 1.200 glycol (Symsitive) 100.000 100.000

[0224] The product F has ortho-rhombic lamellar crystalline structures while the conventional product G has hexagonal lamellar crystalline structures.

[0225] The product F was prepared as follows:

[0226] Phase 1 was heated to 85 C. with uniform stirring. Phase 2 was then also heated to 90 C. At 85 C., phase 2 was added to phase 1 and then homogenized at 16,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax for 5 minutes. Subsequently, the mixture was cooled to 78 C. under homogenization (14,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax) and subjected to the in-process control described at the beginning.

[0227] The mixture thus prepared had a homogeneous dispersion with uniformly large particles.

[0228] The resulting predispersion was finely dispersed by means of a high-pressure homogenizer. Three cycles were required at 800 bar. The mixture was then cooled to 35 C. with stirring and uniform homogenization at 10,000 rpm (Ultra Turrax). The pre-phase mixture was now forced high pressure homogenized at 350 bar (1 cycle) and temporarily stored in a separate vessel at 35 C.

[0229] The phase 3 is then heated in the batch vessel to 50 C. with stirring and stirring continued until the lipid components were completely melted. In a further container, the phase 4 was stirred at 50 C. while dispersing until a clear, yellowish gel dispersion was obtained. Phase 4 was then added to phase 3 and then homogenized for 5 minutes at 19,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax at 85 C.

[0230] Subsequently, the phase 5 was added to the mixture of phase 3+4 and homogenized at 19,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax for 5 minutes. The dispersion from phases 3+4+5 was then cooled to 45 C. at 18,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax. Subsequently, phase 6 was added to the mixture of phase 3+4+5 and homogenized down to the target temperature of 35 C. during a continuous homogenization process at 18,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax. This process took 16 minutes. Subsequently, the predispersion from phases 1+2 was added to the mixture from phases 3+4+5+6 and homogenized at 20,000 rpm with continuous stirring for 18 minutes. Finally, the mixture was cooled down to 25 C. under continuous homogenization at 18,000 rpm. This process took 16 minutes.

[0231] The conventional product G was prepared as follows:

[0232] Phase 1 was heated to 85 C. with uniform stirring. Phase 2 was then also heated to 90 C. At 85 C., phase 2 was added to phase 1 and then homogenized at 12,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax for 5 minutes. Subsequently, the mixture was cooled to 78 C. under homogenization (12,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax) and subjected to the in-process control described at the beginning.

[0233] The mixture thus prepared had a homogeneous dispersion with uniformly large particles.

[0234] The resulting predispersion was finely dispersed by means of a high-pressure homogenizer. Two cycles were required at 790 bar. The mixture was then cooled to 35 C. with stirring and uniform homogenization at 8,000 rpm (Ultra Turrax). The pre-phase mixture was now forced high pressure homogenized at 100 bar (1 cycle) and temporarily stored in a separate vessel at 35 C.

[0235] The phase 3 is then heated in the batch vessel to 50 C. with stirring and stirring continued until the lipid components were completely melted. In a further container, the phase 4 was stirred at 50 C. while dispersing until a clear, yellowish gel dispersion was obtained. Phase 4 was then added to phase 3 and then homogenized for 5 minutes at 19,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax at 85 C.

[0236] Subsequently, the phase 5 was added to the mixture of phase 3+4 and homogenized at 19,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax for 5 minutes. The dispersion from phases 3+4+5 was then cooled to 45 C. at 18,000 rpm using Ultra Turrax. Subsequently, phase 6 was added to the mixture of phase 3+4+5 and homogenized down to the target temperature of 35 C. during a continuous homogenization process at 18,000 rpm by means of Ultra Turrax. This process took 16 minutes. Subsequently, the predispersion from phases 1+2 was added to the mixture from phases 3+4+5+6 and homogenized at 16,000 rpm with continuous stirring for 14 minutes. Finally, the mixture was cooled down to 25 C. under continuous homogenization at 14,000 rpm. This process took 12 minutes.

[0237] As a result of this investigation, it should be noted that the structures of the two applied products F and G, which are detected by the X-ray scattering scattering measurement, the ortho-rhombic lamellar crystalline structure of the product F, and the hexagonal lamellar crystalline structure of the product G, respectively, is present on the surface of the treated stratum corneum.

[0238] On the surface of the stratum corneum treated with the product F, the X-ray angle scattering measurement has two sharp peaks at 4.16 and 3.71 , which is characteristic of the ortho-rhombic lamellar crystalline structure of the product F, while the X-ray angle scattering measurement of the surface of the stratum corneum treated with the product G showed only a single peak at 4.16 , which is characteristic of the hexagonal lamellar crystalline structure of the conventional product G.

[0239] In deeper layers of the stratum corneum, however, it can be demonstrated that this peak disappears at 4.16 of the stratum corneum treated with the product G, while in deeper layers of the stratum corneum treated with the product F according to the invention, both peaks are at 4.16 and 3.71 .

[0240] From this it can be concluded that the crystallinity of the conventional product G is completely lost in the deeper layers of the stratum corneum, which leads to a loss of the barrier-supporting function, while the product F according to the invention retains its crystallinity even in deeper layers of the stratum corneum, and thus the barrier-supporting function required and desired for skin protection and skin care acts not only on the surface but also in the depth of the stratum corneum.