Cosmetic compositions containing silicones
09913795 ยท 2018-03-13
Assignee
Inventors
- Claire-Sophie Bernet (Brussels, BE)
- Pinar CETIN (Istanbul, TR)
- Olivia DE PAEPE (Dour, BE)
- Laurence Gallez (Jurbise, BE)
- Sinem SEVINC (Istanbul, TR)
Cpc classification
A61Q90/00
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61Q11/00
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61Q5/065
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/891
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61Q1/02
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/895
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
A61Q90/00
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61Q11/00
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61Q1/02
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/895
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/891
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61Q5/06
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
A cosmetic composition comprising a cosmetically active ingredient in a cosmetically acceptable medium, wherein the cosmetic composition contains a silicone composition comprising (A) a hydrophobic organopolysiloxane fluid having a surface tension of from 15 to 40 mN/m and (B) a finely divided solid hydrophobic filler dispersed in the organopolysiloxane fluid (A).
Claims
1. A cosmetic composition for application to a keratinous substrate of a human, said cosmetic composition comprising: a cosmetically active ingredient in a cosmetically acceptable medium; and a silicone composition comprising; (A) a hydrophobic organopolysiloxane fluid having a surface tension of from 15 to 40 mN/m, and (B) a finely divided solid hydrophobic filler dispersed in the organopolysiloxane fluid (A); wherein the cosmetic composition is a foamable composition such that a foam or lather forms during application to and/or use on a keratinous substrate.
2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the organopolysiloxane fluid (A) has a surface tension 27 mN/m and <40 mN/m.
3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the organopolysiloxane fluid (A) contains aryl or aralkyl groups bonded to Si atoms of the organopolysiloxane.
4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 3, wherein the organopolysiloxane fluid (A) contains phenyl groups bonded to Si atoms of the organopolysiloxane.
5. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the organopolysiloxane fluid (A) contains alkyl substituents having 4 to 36 carbon atoms bonded to Si atoms of the organopolysiloxane.
6. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the organopolysiloxane fluid (A) contains carboxyalkyl groups esterified by an alkyl group having 4 to 36 carbon atoms.
7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the finely divided solid hydrophobic filler (B) is present at 1 to 15% by weight based on the organopolysiloxane fluid (A).
8. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the silicone composition is present at 0.001% to 2% by weight of the cosmetic composition.
9. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the silicone composition is present as an oil-in-water emulsion.
10. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition is selected from a shampoo, shower gel, shaving product, personal washing product, mouth wash, face wash, foam color, foam make up or exfoliating product and the cosmetically active ingredient comprises a surfactant.
11. The cosmetic composition according to claim 10, wherein the cosmetic composition is a shampoo for application to human hair.
12. The cosmetic composition according to claim 10, wherein the cosmetic composition is selected from a face wash, a foam color, or a foam make up for application to human skin or hair.
13. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetically active ingredient comprises an emollient, humectant, pH adjusting agent, chelating agent, conditioning agent or exfoliating agent.
14. A method of facilitating rinsing of a cosmetic composition from human hair or skin, said method comprising: incorporating a silicone composition in a composition to form the cosmetic composition; applying the cosmetic composition to human hair or skin; and rinsing the cosmetic composition from the human hair or skin; wherein the silicone and cosmetic compositions are according to claim 1.
15. A method of facilitating combing of human hair, said method comprising: incorporating a silicone composition in a shampoo, conditioning composition, or colouring product to form a cosmetic composition; applying the cosmetic composition to human hair; and rinsing the cosmetic composition from the human hair or skin; wherein the silicone and cosmetic compositions are according to claim 1.
16. A method of increasing the smoothness, silkiness and/or shine of human hair, said method comprising: incorporating a silicone composition in a shampoo, conditioning composition, or colouring product to form a cosmetic composition; applying the cosmetic composition to human hair; and rinsing the cosmetic composition from the human hair or skin; wherein the silicone and cosmetic compositions are according to claim 1.
17. The method according to claim 14, further comprising the step(s) of lathering and/or rubbing the cosmetic composition into the human hair or skin by hand, and wherein the step of rinsing is further defined as rinsing the cosmetic composition from the human hair or skin by hand.
18. The method according to claim 15, further comprising the step(s) of lathering and/or rubbing the cosmetic composition into the human hair or skin by hand, and wherein the step of rinsing is further defined as rinsing the cosmetic composition from the human hair or skin by hand.
19. The method according to claim 16, further comprising the step(s) of lathering and/or rubbing the cosmetic composition into the human hair or skin by hand, and wherein the step of rinsing is further defined as rinsing the cosmetic composition from the human hair or skin by hand.
20. A method of producing a cosmetic composition for application to a keratinous substrate of a human, said method comprising: (i) dispersing a finely divided solid hydrophobic filler in a hydrophobic organopolysiloxane fluid having a surface tension of from 15 to 40 mN/m to prepare a silicone composition; and (ii) mixing the silicone composition with a cosmetically active ingredient in a cosmetically acceptable medium to produce the cosmetic composition; wherein the cosmetic composition is a foamable composition such that a foam or lather forms during application to and/or use on a keratinous substrate.
Description
EXAMPLES
(1) The invention is illustrated by the following Examples, in which parts and percentages are by weight.
Example 1
(2) 91 g dimethyl methyl(2-phenylpropyl) siloxane fluid, having a surface tension of 28.0 mN/m, was mixed with 6 g high surface area fumed silica surface modified with hexamethyldisilazane (Cab-O-Sil TS530) and 3 g partially hydrophobic silica (Aerosil R972) at 3500 rpm for 80 seconds, followed by mixing at 6000 rpm with homogeniser for 60 seconds to form a silicone composition.
(3) 10 g of the silicone composition was mixed with 0.98 g ethoxylated stearyl alcohol (Volpo S2) and 0.98 g ethoxylated stearyl alcohol (Volpo S20) and heated at 70 C. for 10 minutes, then mixed over 5 minutes at 3500 rpm with gradual addition of 15.7 g of a 4% aqueous thickener solution and 22.53 g more water to form a 20% by weight aqueous emulsion of the silicone composition.
(4) The aqueous emulsion of the silicone composition was added at 0.4% by weight to each of 3 commercial shampoosPantene Classic Care, Gamier Ultra-Doux and Syoss, providing for an amount of 0.08% by weight silicone composition based on the shampoo. Shake tests (I) were carried out to assess the effectiveness of the silicone composition as a rinse aid. Comparison tests were made using each shampoo without added silicone composition.
(5) In the shake tests (I), each shampoo was first diluted to 0.5% with deionised water to form a foamable solution simulating washing with the shampoo (above the Critical Micelle Concentration of the detersive surfactant). In parallel, each shampoo was diluted to 0.05% with deionised water to form a foamable solution simulating the rinsing step when using the shampoo (below the Critical Micelle Concentration of the detersive surfactant). 100 ml of each foamable solution simulating the wash step and that simulating the rinse step was taken into a clean 250 ml jar which had the liquid level was marked as 0 and the upper limit of the jar was marked as 100. The jar was shaken for 60 seconds. After each shaking cycle the initial foam height was recorded as a percentage of available free volume. The foamed solution was allowed to stand for 2 minutes (collapse time) and the percentage of foam was recorded. The results are shown in Tables 1, 2 and 3.
Examples 2 to 6
(6) Example 1 was repeated replacing the dimethyl methyl(2-Phenylpropyl) siloxane fluid of Example 1 by the following: Example 2: a mixture of 50% trimethylsiloxy-terminated poly(methylphenylsiloxane) having a surface tension of 27.1 mN/m with 50% liquid polyisobutylene (Dynapak poly 55) having a surface tension of 30.4 mN/m; Example 3: a mixture of 50% dimethyl methyl(2-Phenylpropyl) siloxane fluid (=28.0 mN/m), as used in Example 1 with 50% liquid polyisobutylene (Dynapak poly 55) (=30.4 mN/m); Example 4: linear fluid polydimethylsiloxane with randomly distributed C.sub.12-14 alkyl chains having a surface tension of 28.0 mN/m; Example 5: a mixture of 50% linear polydimethylsiloxane with randomly distributed C.sub.12-14 alkyl chains (=28.0 mN/m) with 50% liquid polyisobutylene (Dynapak poly 55) (=30.4 mN/m); Example 6: a mixture of 50% fluid polymethylalkylsiloxane having C.sub.12-14 alkyl groups having a surface tension of 31 mN/m with 50% liquid polyisobutylene (Dynapak poly 55) (=30.4 mN/m).
(7) The results of the shake tests for Examples 1 to 6 are shown in Tables 1 to 3, each Table showing the results for a particular commercial shampoo.
(8) TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 WASH RINSE Wash foam Foam height Rinse foam Foam height Shampoo height after 2 min height after 2 min Pantene no additive 100% 100% 70% 60% Pantene-Example 1 80% 70% 10% 5% Pantene-Example 2 80% 70% 20% 10% Pantene-Example 3 80% 80% 10% 10% Pantene-Example 4 50% 50% 10% 0% Pantene-Example 5 80% 70% 20% 10% Pantene-Example 6 80% 60% 20% 20%
(9) TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 WASH RINSE Wash Foam Rinse Foam foam height foam height Shampoo height after 2 min height after 2 min Ultra-Doux no additive 100% 100% 100% 100% Ultra-Doux-Example 1 70% 60% 10% 5% Ultra-Doux-Example 2 80% 70% 10% 10% Ultra-Doux-Example 3 70% 60% 5% 0% Ultra-Doux-Example 4 50% 40% 5% 0% Ultra-Doux-Example 5 60% 60% 10% 5% Ultra-Doux-Example 6 70% 60% 20% 20%
(10) TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 RINSE WASH Rinse Foam Wash foam Foam height foam height Shampoo height after 2 min height after 2 min Syoss no additive 100% 100% 60% 50% Syoss 5 g/l-Example 1 70% 60% 20% 5% Syoss 5 g/l-Example 2 80% 60% 20% 20% Syoss 5 g/l-Example 3 80% 70% 10% 5% Syoss 5 g/l-Example 4 60% 50% 10% 0% Syoss 5 g/l-Example 5 60% 50% 10% 5% Syoss 5 g/l-Example 6 80% 60% 20% 10%
(11) As can be seen from Tables 1 to 3, the commercial shampoos all formed considerable amounts of foam even at the concentration simulating the rinsing step. Addition of a silicone composition according to the invention showed only a small reduction in lather at the wash concentration, but a drastic and significant reduction in foam at the concentration simulating the rinsing step.
Example 7
(12) A 20% by weight aqueous emulsion of a silicone composition was prepared by the method described in Example 1 replacing the dimethyl methyl(2-Phenylpropyl) siloxane fluid of Example 1 by a mixture of 50% methyl(C.sub.12-14 alkyl)siloxane methyl(2-methyl-2-carboxyethyl)siloxane copolymer, in which the carboxyl groups are esterified with C.sub.12-13 alkyl groups, sold under the trade mark Dow Corning SF-8422 and having a surface tension of 27.2 mN/m, with 50% Dynapak poly 55 liquid polyisobutylene (=30.4 mN/m).
(13) Shampoo compositions were prepared by adding 500 l of the silicone emulsion to 50 g of each of Pantene and Ultra-Doux shampoos. The resulting shampoo compositions were used in foam tests on hair. Pre-washed tresses of hair (5 tresses for each test) were wetted with tap water at 37 C. for 30 seconds, then shampooed with 5 g of the shampoo composition, stroking the tresses downward for 30 seconds to form a lather. Excess lather was removed by stroking the tresses 3 times between two fingers. Each tress was then rinsed by dipping in tap water at 37 C. for 5 seconds and removing excess water by stroking the tresses between two fingers. The excess water was collected and photographed to observe the amount of foam on the rinse water. This rinsing procedure was repeated two more times. Comparison tests were made using each shampoo without added silicone composition. The amounts of foam are listed in Table 4 below which shows the percentage of the water surface covered by foam.
(14) TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 Foam after Foam after Foam after 1 rinse 2 rinses 3 rinses Pantene-no additive 100% 20% 0% Pantene-Example 7 100% 5% 0% Ultra-Doux-no additive 100% 90% 40% Ultra-Doux-Example 7 100% 50% 10%
(15) It can be seen from Table 4 that the silicone composition of Example 7 did not inhibit lathering in the wash, but aided the speed of removal of foam by rinsing for each of the commercial shampoos tested.
Examples 8 to 11
(16) A 20% by weight aqueous emulsion of a silicone composition was prepared by the method described in Example 1 replacing the dimethyl methyl(2-Phenylpropyl) siloxane fluid of Example 1 by the following Example 8: trimethylsiloxy-terminated poly(methylphenylsiloxane) fluid having a surface tension of 32.0 mN/m; Example 9: polymethylalkylsiloxane having C.sub.12-14 alkyl groups having a surface tension of 31.0 mN/m; Example 10: a mixture of 50% trimethylsiloxy-terminated poly(methylphenylsiloxane) fluid (=32.0 mN/m) with 50% liquid polyisobutylene (Dynapak poly 55) (=30.4 mN/m); Example 11: a mixture of 50% polymethylalkylsiloxane having C.sub.12-14 alkyl groups (=31.0 mN/m) with 50% liquid polyisobutylene (Dynapak poly 55) (=30.4 mN/m).
(17) Each aqueous emulsion of the silicone composition was added at 0.5% by weight (0.1% by weight silicone composition based on shampoo) to a commercial shampoo (Pantene). The resulting shampoo compositions were used in sensory tests on hair. Pre-washed tresses of hair (2 tresses for each test) were wetted with tap water at 37 C. for 30 seconds, then shampooed with 5 g of the shampoo composition, stroking the tresses downward for 30 seconds to form a lather. Excess lather was removed by stroking the tresses 3 times between two fingers. Each tress was then rinsed by dipping in tap water at 37 C. for 30 seconds and removing excess water by stroking the tresses between two fingers. The resulting washed and rinsed tresses were each assessed by 5 qualified panelists evaluating the following parameters: smoothness, silkiness, shine, ease of combing. Comparison tests were made using the shampoo without added silicone composition.
(18) Hair tresses treated with the shampoos of Examples 8 and 9 were smoother and easier to comb than the control without added silicone composition. The panelists could feel the presence of a film on the hair but the hair tresses were not perceived to be greasy nor harsh. Hair tresses treated with the shampoos of Examples 10 and 11 were smoother and had more volume than the control without added silicone composition, but no advantage or disadvantage was perceived for the combing in these Examples. The panelists could also feel the presence of a film but the hair tresses were not perceived to be greasy nor harsh.
Example 12
(19) 90 g dimethyl methyl(2-phenylpropyl) siloxane fluid (=28.0 mN/m) was mixed with 4 g high surface area fumed silica surface modified with hexamethyldisilazane (Cab-O-Sil TS530) and 1 g partially hydrophobic silica (Aerosil R972) at 3500 rpm for 80 seconds, followed by mixing at 6000 rpm with homogeniser for 60 seconds to form a silicone composition.
(20) The silicone composition was added at 1% by weight to a commercial shampooGarnier Ultra-Doux.
(21) Shake tests (II) were carried out to assess the effectiveness of the silicone composition as a rinse aid. Comparison tests were made using the shampoo without added silicone composition.
(22) In the shake tests (II), the shampoo with or without added silicone composition was first diluted to 0.5% with deionised water to form a foamable solution simulating washing with the shampoo (above the Critical Micelle Concentration of the detersive surfactant). 100 ml of each foamable solution simulating the wash step taken into a clean 250 ml jar which had the liquid level was marked as 0 and the upper limit of the jar was marked as 100. Five hair tresses were clamped into the cap of the jar so that they soak into the shampoo solution. The jar was shaken for 60 seconds. After each shaking cycle the initial foam height was recorded as a percentage of available free volume. The hair tresses were then removed from the jar and squeezed until only 10 ml (10 gm) of the foamable solution remain on the hair. The tresses were then added to a jar containing 100 ml of fresh water and the jar was shaken for 60 seconds. The foam height was recorded and the hair tresses were again removed from the jar and transferred to a jar with fresh water. The operation was repeated until no foam appears anymore after shaking. The number of operations necessary to reach that point is recorded as the number of rinses necessary to obtain clear water.
(23) The results indicate that the addition of the silicone composition to the shampoo allowed for reducing the number of rinses from 5 to 3 with a moderate impact on the foamability of the shampoo. The sensory properties of the hair were not affected by the reduction of the rinses, as assessed by 5 panelists with regard to ease of combing, smoothness, alignment and volume.
(24) TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 5 Commercial Example 12: Commercial shampoo shampoo (Ultra Doux) + Foam height (Ultra Doux) silicone composition Wash 100 80 Rinse n1 40 20 Rinse n2 10 2.5 Rinse n3 5 0 Rinse n4 2.5 0 Rinse n5 0 0