AUTOMATED FOOTWEAR MANUFACTURING LINE AND METHOD OF OPERATING SUCH MANUFACTURING LINE
20230092254 · 2023-03-23
Inventors
Cpc classification
B32B2309/72
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
B32B37/12
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
B32B7/12
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
B32B9/04
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
B32B37/08
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
C09J177/00
CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
B32B38/10
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
International classification
B32B37/12
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
B32B41/00
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
B32B7/12
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
Abstract
A method of manufacturing at least a part of a footwear in an automatic manufacturing line includes providing a footwear part in the form of a leather base layer, providing a footwear part in the form of a leather attachment layer, automatically stacking the leather base layer and the leather attachment layer against each other with an intermediate application of adhesive between them, automatically activating the adhesive, automatically forcing the leather base layer and the leather attachment layer against each other under a pressure with the adhesive between them, curing the adhesive and thereby bonding the leather base layer and the leather attachment layer to each other thereby providing at least a part of a footwear upper.
Claims
1. A method of manufacturing at least a part of a footwear in an automatic footwear manufacturing line, the method comprising steps of: providing a first footwear part in a form of a leather base layer, providing a second footwear part in a form of a leather attachment layer, automatically stacking the leather base layer and the leather attachment layer against each other with an intermediate application of adhesive between them, automatically activating the adhesive, automatically forcing the leather base layer and the leather attachment layer against each other under a pressure with the adhesive between them, and curing the adhesive and thereby bonding the leather base layer and the leather attachment layer to each other thereby providing at least a part of a footwear upper.
2.-5. (canceled)
6. The method of manufacturing at least the part of the footwear according to claim 1, wherein the step of automatically activating the adhesive is performed by heating the adhesive.
7. The method of manufacturing at least the part of the footwear according to claim 1, wherein the step of automatically activating the adhesive is activated by subjecting the adhesive to UV-radiation (UV: Ultra violet radiation), IR (IR: Infrared radiation), Ultrasound or any combination thereof.
8. A method according to claim 6, wherein at least one of the leather base layer or the leather attachment layer shrinks when heating the adhesive.
9. A method according to claim 6, wherein the heating the adhesive is continued over a period of time and/or heated to a temperature by which at least one of the leather base layer or the leather attachment layer will shrink within a predetermined dimension range.
10.-12. (canceled)
13. A method according to claim 6, wherein the adhesive is a foil and/or a web prior to bonding.
14.-19. (canceled)
20. A method according to claim 1, wherein the adhesive is a non-reactive glue which is a hot-melt adhesive having a Tg (Tg: glass transition temperature) between 100 degrees Celsius and 200 degrees Celsius.
21.-22. (canceled)
23. A method according to claim 1, wherein the leather base layer is formed of top grain leather, and wherein the top-grain side is facing towards the leather attachment layer.
24.-25. (canceled)
26. A method according to claim 1, wherein the top-grain side of the leather attachment layer and/or the leather base layer is buffed.
27. A method according to claim 1, wherein the leather attachment layer is formed of top-grain leather, having the top-grain side facing towards the exterior of the footwear.
28.-29. (canceled)
30. A method according to claim 1, wherein the thickness of the leather attachment layer is between 0.3 mm to 2.0 mm.
31.-34. (canceled)
35. A method according to claim 1, wherein the leather base layer is forming at least part of a leather vamp of the footwear.
36. A method according to claim 1, wherein the leather attachment layer is forming at least part of a leather counter of a footwear, and/or wherein the leather attachment layer is forming part of a leather toe cap of a footwear.
37.-44. (canceled)
45. A method according to claim 1, wherein the method is performed by in an automatic footwear processing arrangement (AFPA) having an input and an output, wherein the steps of providing the leather base layer and providing the leather attachment layer are performed in an automatic process transporting the leather base layer and the leather attachment layer from the input and automatically stacking these, one layer at least partially overlapping the other layer, wherein the step of automatically activating the adhesive is performed automatically by means of an automatic adhesive activation arrangement, and wherein the step of automatically forcing the leather base layer and the leather attachment layer against each other under the pressure with the adhesive between them is performed by an automatic pressure activation arrangement.
46. (canceled)
47. The method according to claim 45, wherein the method further comprises a step of curing the adhesive, performed subsequent to activation, via an automatic cooling arrangement.
48.-49. (canceled)
50. The method according to claim 1, wherein the leather base layer and the leather attachment layer are automatically cleaned of dust prior to a reactivation of adhesive already present thereon, and/or, prior to the the step of automatically activating the adhesive via a pre-adhesion processing arrangement.
51.-55. (canceled)
56. An automatic footwear processing arrangement (AFPA) defining an automatic footwear manufacturing line having an input and an output, the footwear manufacturing line including one or more stations configured for performing process steps, wherein the arrangement includes a station in the form of at least one automatically stacking arrangement stacking a leather base layer and a leather attachment layer obtained from the input (I), one layer at least partially overlapping the other layer and wherein the automatic stacking arrangement is cooperating with an associated automatic adhesive activation arrangement, the adhesive activation arrangement being arranged to automatically activate an adhesive between a mutually stacked leather base layer and leather attachment layer, the adhesive activation arrangement including or cooperating with an automatic pressure activation arrangement configured to force the leather base layer and the leather attachment layer against each other subject to at a pressure with the adhesive between them at the same time or subsequent to the activation of adhesive performed by the adhesive activation arrangement.
57. The automatic footwear processing arrangement according to claim 56, wherein the one or more stations of the manufacturing line are interconnected with a transporting arrangement automatically configured for transporting footwear parts from one station to another station, and wherein the transportation of the footwear parts from the one station another station is controlled at least partly by a control arrangement so as to establish a manufacturing sequence for respective footwear items.
58. The automatic footwear processing arrangement according to claim 57, wherein the control arrangement is monitoring movement of partially gathered footwear upper parts throughout a manufacturing sequence of a footwear upper.
59.-60. (canceled)
61. The automatic footwear processing arrangement according to claim 56, wherein a process of curing the adhesive is performed subsequent to activation of the adhesive via an automatic cooling arrangement.
62.-68. (canceled)
69. The automatic footwear processing arrangement according to claim 56, wherein the manufacturing line includes a subsequent automatic sole attachment arrangement for cementing a sole to a footwear upper.
70. The automatic footwear processing arrangement according to claim 56, wherein the manufacturing line includes a subsequent automatic arrangement configured for direct injection of a sole to a footwear upper.
71. (canceled)
Description
THE FIGURES
[0167] The invention will be described in the following with reference to the drawings, where
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DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0189] In terms of terminology, top grain surface is the upper portion or outer covering of the animal whereas split is the under layer which is removed by splitting operation in the leather making/tanning process.
[0190] Full grain refers to top grain leather where no sanding of the surface takes place. This leaves the original surface texture visible in the final leather, including hair follicles and any natural scar tissue or other skin defects. Additionally, any natural defects in the hide remain in the final piece, which can create natural lines of weakness that render the leather difficult to use in certain applications. For instance, in applications such as shoes, the natural weaknesses may cause the leather to preferentially bend in the wrong place, making the shoe uncomfortable during use.
[0191] Nubuck leathers have the surface layer removed or modified typically by a buffing process. Although the leather still has the pronounced network of natural fibres and corium structure giving the leather strength, the very top grain surface is effectively removed.
[0192] The buffing process used to form nubuck leathers leaves protein fibres that produce a velvet-like feel. Artificially embossing nubuck leather can create a surface texture, but often the embossing step damages the protein fibres and undermines the velvet-like feel.
[0193] Split leather is created from the fibrous part of the hide left once the top-grain has been separated from the hide, e.g. to be used as full grain or top grain leather. Split grain leather may have reduced strength as compared to comparable thicknesses of top grain leather, as the fibres tend to be more aligned. To compensate for this, split leather may need to be reinforced prior to use. Any grain texture is furthermore embossed on to the final leather.
[0194] Only full grain leathers maintain the natural grain and inherent strength of the original hide. When the sample thickness of full grain leather is reduced, the strength drops dramatically rendering them unsuitable for certain uses. Corrected grain and split leathers lack a natural grain. In order to attain a high quality appearance of natural full grain leather, they typically have an artificial grain embossed onto their surface.
[0195] Whereas automated assembly lines and robot featuring assembly lines are well-known within numerous different types of industries, this is rarely seen within the footwear industry and when it is applied, it is used for very specific, insignificant and isolated stations of a complete manufacturing process.
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[0197] The footwear manufacturing line ML may also be referred to as an automatic footwear processing arrangement AFPA for bonding of footwear parts FP. The manufacturing line has an input I and an output O, the footwear manufacturing line including one or more stations configured for performing manufacturing sequence process steps.
[0198] The stations are operatively connected by means of a transporting arrangement TA, here in the form of a conveyor. Other types of transporting arrangements may be applied within the scope of the invention.
[0199] The manufacturing line includes a station STA in the form of at least one automatically stacking arrangement ASA, e.g. implemented as an automatic pick-and-place device stacking a leather base layer and a leather attachment layer obtained from the input I, one layer at least partially overlapping the other layer and wherein the pick-and place device is cooperating with an associated automatic adhesive activation arrangement AAA. The illustrated footwear parts is intended to show e.g. the footwear parts as explained in relation
[0200] The adhesive activation arrangement is arranged to automatically receive a mutually stacked leather base layer and a leather attachment layer from the automatic stacking arrangement and activate an adhesive between the stacked leather base and the leather attachment layer. In the illustrated embodiment, the footwear parts have been pre-adhered prior to being fed to the input. Application of adhesive or cementing may of course be performed in the manufacturing line if so desired, but this would require that a station is configured for applying adhesive to the footwear parts in the desired pattern, preferably prior to or at least at latest during stacking of the relevant footwear parts.
[0201] The adhesive activation arrangement including or cooperating with an automatic pressure activation arrangement APA configured to force the leather base layer LBL and the leather attachment layer LAL against each other under a predefined pressure with the adhesive between them at the same time as activating the adhesive. This means that the illustrated adhesive activation arrangement is configured for both putting pressure to the stacked footwear parts and activating the adhesive at the same time. In principle, the pressurizing may be performed at a subsequent station as long as the duration of time until such re-pressure is performed is relatively low so as to ensure a proper bonding and it is also necessary to ensure that the stacked footwear parts are not mutually displaced during this critical time.
[0202] The illustrated footwear parts are stacked on a production tray PT. In the present embodiment the production tray serves to transport the footwear parts between the stations but also to facilitate a transport between stations where the proper stacking is maintained even before the final desired bonding is obtained by curing.
[0203] Further down the line, the manufacturing line includes a station in the form of an automatic curing arrangement ACA. In the present embodiment, the curing arrangement is applied for cooling the stacked footwear parts after the adhesive between them has been activated so as to ensure a proper bonding. This part of the process is crucial but extremely attractive for automatic implementation as the duration of curing time, and the cooling may be complete adapted and optimized to even the individual footwear parts and stacks.
[0204] Finally, the manufacturing line includes an optional visual detection system VDS applied for the purpose of checking whether the processing has been performed according to expectation. Further stations may be applied in a manufacturing line according to the invention and the manufacturing line may be configured differently. Different configurations are illustrated and explained below.
[0205] The transportation of the footwear parts from station to station is controlled at least partly by a control arrangement CA so as to establish a manufacturing sequence for respective footwear items.
[0206] It should be noted that the control arrangement may be directly communicating with the individual stations of the manufacturing line both for ensuring that the footwear parts or bonded footwear parts are transported correctly between the stations but also optionally also supervising the progression of the manufacturing sequences of a plurality of individual footwear parts, footwear items or footwear uppers gradually and/or partly gathered uppers.
[0207] The process of receiving footwear parts at the input of the manufacturing line, moving these along, optionally with further added footwear parts along the line, attaching these to another and finally obtaining at least a part of a footwear upper, e.g. at least a complete 2D upper, may be referred to as a manufacturing sequence. The output of the manufacturing sequence may thus be partially completed footwear uppers, complete footwear uppers or even footwear including cemented or DIP′ed soles (DIP: Direct injection process)
[0208] It should also be noted that each station may comprise an individual control unit (not shown) and may include both software suitable for obtaining the desired functionality of the individual station but also to ensure a proper communication with the control arrangement CA.
[0209] To understand and appreciate the automated manufacturing line in the present context it is necessary to understand some fundamental physics and mechanical realities. These are to be explained below in order to facilitate understanding of the present automated footwear manufacturing line.
[0210] Thus, in order to explain the central features and understanding of the adhering of footwear leather parts of the invention,
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[0213] The exemplified footwear is a shoe 100. The illustrated shoe 100 comprises an upper part UP comprising a front part (FP) and back part (BP). The front part comprises footwear defining parts such as a vamp 101 and tongue 102, two quarters 103 and a toe cap 104.
[0214] The illustrated shoe 100 comprises a backpiece BP. The backpiece comprises footwear defining parts such as an outer counter 106, eyelets 107, and facing 108.
[0215] The illustrated shoe 100 may preferably comprise a lining on the inner side of the quarter. For illustrative purposes the lining is not shown.
[0216] The illustrated backpiece BP may comprise stitches to facilitate a curvature of the backpiece. The stitches are not illustrated on the figure.
[0217] The front part FP and backpiece BP are attached to each other where the backpiece BP is overlapping the front part FP. The attachment of the two parts FP to the BP may be facilitated e.g. by adhesion facilitated with conventional glue or other adhesives suitable for adhering the two pieces. The attachment of the two parts FP to the BP may also, either alone or in combination with adhesives, be facilitated with stitching.
[0218] The upper part UP is attached to a sole S e.g. by adhesion, gluing, stitching, injection molding or any relevant methods of attaching a sole. The attachment of the upper part UP to the sole may be done before or after the two pieces of front part FP and backpieces BP are attached to each other.
[0219] The sole may comprise several parts and layers (not shown).
[0220] The shoe may of course comprise other not-shown features and parts and the shapes and configuration of the parts may be different. Most shoes comprise more than 15 or 20 shoe defining parts.
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[0226] The outer counter 202 is bonded to the two quarter pieces 201A and 201B by an adhesive (A) layer 203 and the two facing pieces 202A and 202Bs are connected to the two quarter pieces 201A and 201B by layers of adhesives 203A and 203B respectively.
[0227] In the illustrated back-piece provided according to an embodiment of the invention, the two quarter pieces 201A and 201B forms a leather base layer(s) LBL upon which two facing pieces 202A, 202B and the outer counter 202 are bonded by means of glue. The two facing pieces 202A, 202B and the outer counter 202 may elsewhere be referred to as leather attachment layers LAL.
[0228] In the presently illustrated embodiment, the leather forming the base layer(s) are top grain leather, buffed or non-buffed, with the top-grain side facing towards the leather attachment layers LAL, the two facing pieces 202A, 202B and the outer counter 202.
[0229] The present illustrated leather attachment layers LAL are preferably from top grain leather also, having the flesh-side facing the leather base layer(s) LBL, here the two quarter pieces 201A and 201B and the top grain side facing to the exterior of the final shoe.
[0230] Possible adhesives are described elsewhere in the application, but in the present embodiment a co-polyamide has been applied.
[0231] The adhesive may be present in a continuous layer or be present as a “perforated” or non-continues adhesive layer facilitating both sufficient bonding but also breathing or some kind of moisture transport through the layers.
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[0237] With reference to
[0238] The application of adhesive to the leather parts may be processed with one leather part at the time but for industrial applications it may be preferably to pre-laminate several pieces of leather in the same process.
[0239] The two compression parts 501 and 501 may be parts on a machine e.g. a machine such as a transfer flatbed pressing machine such as a Galaxy Air Double but could also be any other machine or apparatus capable of applying the relevant temperature and pressure.
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[0241] The Teflon sheet is only slightly attached to the adhesive side of the leather. Immediately after detachment of the Teflon sheet from the adhesive side of the leather, the adhesive is functioning for further procedures such as adhering two pieces of leather together. For industrial applications it may be advantageous to cover the prelaminated leather with a sheet of paper e.g. a heat resistant paper PA that removably adhere and cover the prelaminated leather for optimal transportation of the pieces and for avoidance of contamination.
[0242] The detachment of the Teflon sheet may be done manually or could also be an automatized non-manually process.
[0243] Subsequently to the prelamination, the leather pieces may be re-cut depending on the subsequent processes and applications.
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[0245] The adherence of the leather parts may be processed with adhering one leather piece to another leather piece at the time but for industrial applications it may be preferably to adhere several pieces of leather in the same process.
[0246] In the process it might be advantageous to use of sheet of paper PA e.g. a heat resistant paper between the leather and compression parts. This is not shown.
[0247] The two compression parts 501 and 501 may be parts on a machine e.g. a machine such as a transfer flatbed pressing machine such as a Galaxy Air Double but could also be any other machine or apparatus capable of applying the relevant temperature and pressure.
[0248] The leather piece 505, adhesive 506 and leather piece 508 are pressed by a compression part 501 from one side and a compression part 502 from the opposite side and during application of heat T and pressure P from at least one side of the compression parts 501 or 502.
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[0251] An advantage of not using pre-laminated leather could be that it is only necessary to heat the leather once which may be industrial beneficial, but it may also be an advantage in order to avoid shrinkage of the leather and for keeping the softness of the leather.
[0252] A following process should preferably include a cooling process e.g. as illustrated in
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[0254] The fixation may be done by using a e.g. welding iron W by dot point welding uniformly around the piece of adhesive 702 to secure adhesive to leather for pre-pressing operation.
[0255] The fixation may be done by use of other devises or methods suitable to fix the adhesive 702 to the leather pieces 701 and/or 703.
[0256] Other types of pre-fixation, e.g. mechanical or chemical, may be applied within the scope of the invention.
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[0258] Applying pressure to a stack of a leather where the adhesive is in between two leather pieces may result in removal of pockets of air that might be present in the leather. Removal of the air pockets may lead to a greater heat transportation of the leather and therefore less heat may be required to heat up the adhesive through the leather.
[0259] The exemplified footwear is a shoe. Other types of footwear may be relevant within the scope of the invention, such as a boot. It should also be noted that shoes may be configured or manufactured in many different ways and be formed of different types of shoe-defining parts but still considered included in the invention as long as principle parts of the shoe, are made according to the provisions of the invention. Further, it should be noted that there may be different nomenclature of the different parts of the shoe e.g. toe cap may also be termed as mud gourd etc. and the exemplary footwear parts, made within the scope of the invention, also includes synonyms of the shoe parts.
[0260] The adhesive illustrated in the above description e.g. as 203, 302, 506, 602, 702, and 802 may preferably be applied as an adhesive foil, film, slit film, web, dots, or net with various degrees of openness to ensure optimal bonding and high breathability of the footwear. The pattern of the adhesive is preferably an open, permeable or flexible application
[0261] The term prelamination refers to the process of applying an adhesive to a piece of leather and the term lamination refers to applying a piece of leather to the prelaminated leather facing the side with the adhesive.
[0262] Overall, prelamination, lamination, adhering and gluing may all relate to applying an adhesive to at least one leather piece ending up with the adherence of two leather pieces.
[0263] The adhesive may most preferably be a thermoplastic co-polyamide web.
[0264] The thermoplastic co-polyamide web may e.g. have a DSC melting range between 98 to 145 and DSC onset at between 96 and 115 Celsius degrees according to ISO 11357.
[0265] A possible DSC melting range for an applied co-polyamide hot-melt glue could e.g. be 98 to 110 degrees Celsius. This would ensure a robustness to steam treatment during manufacture but also ensure that the leather attachment layers are securely fastened to the footwear when the footwear is subjected to stress, temperature and humidity under ambient conditions
[0266] A further possible DSC melting range for an applied hot-melt glue could e.g. be 132 to 148 degrees Celsius. This would ensure a robustness to steam treatment during manufacture but also ensure that the leather attachment layers are securely fastened to the footwear when the footwear is subjected to stress, temperature and humidity under ambient conditions. The melting point of these adhesive may thus be different and the applied heat (temperature) and duration of heating (time) must be chosen to melt the chosen adhesive without damaging or drying the leather layer(s) too much. Other parameters to be considered when heating includes e.g. thickness of the leather and the pressure during the process.
[0267] Advantages of using a non-woven thermoplastic co-polyamide web are that it maintains a high softness, flexibility and breathability of the material. Further, the application of the thermoplastic co-polyamide web is industrial applicable, easy to unroll and process with no air entrapment during lamination.
[0268] The adhesive foil may be cut into relevant pieces depending on application by suitable cutting tools prior to lamination or adherence to leather. The adhesive foil may also be applied to leather prior to cutting the adhesive foil into suitable pieces.
[0269] The heating of the adhesive thermoplastic co-polyamide web during prelamination may preferably be made by heating the web through a heat resistant paper from at least one heating element. The temperature from the heating element may be at least 100 Celsius degrees, more preferably at least 140 Celsius and most preferably at least 160 Celsius degrees. Preferably, the temperature during manufacture should not exceed 200 degrees Celsius.
[0270] The heating of the thermoplastic co-polyamide web during lamination of two leather pieces may preferably by made by heating the web through a leather piece directly linked to the web and another leather piece. The temperature from the heating element may be at least 100 Celsius degrees, more preferably at least 140 Celsius or at least 170 Celsius degrees.
[0271] The temperature applied to the leather may be different from temperature at the site of the thermoplastic co-polyamide web and several parameters can influence the differences between these temperatures. Such parameters could be the type of leather or pre-treatment of the leather, thickness of the leather, pressure during lamination and the time where the temperature and pressure are applied to the leather.
[0272] The temperature of both the leather side and the thermoplastic co-polyamide web are preferably controlled by e.g. a strip that indicate temperature to make sure that the correct temperature reaches the leather and thermoplastic co-polyamide web to ensure an optimal and strong binding.
[0273] The heating may be applied from only one side through one leather piece but may also be applied through both sides of the two leather pieces.
[0274] During pre-lamination, a heat resistant element, such as Teflon, e.g. a Teflon sheet 507 as illustrated in
[0275] The duration or time of heating may greatly affect the adherence og the thermoplastic co-polyamide web to the leather and the time may be different during the steps of prelamination and lamination. During prelamination the time may preferably be less than the time during lamination. The time of heating may preferably be at least 3 sec. during prelamination and preferably at least 30 sec. during lamination. The time of heating may be changed according to different parameters such as the type of leather or pre-treatment of the leather, thickness of the leather and pressure applied during the process.
[0276] The temperature applied during heating during pressure may depend on the type of hot-melt glue applied. If hot-melt glue with lower melting temperature than e.g. 130 degrees Celsius, the heating temperature may be lowered correspondingly,
[0277] The pressure applied to the leather and adhesive during the process may increase the thermal conductivity through the leather and thereby improve the heat transfer. Improving the heat transfer thorough the leather may influence how high temperature that needs to be applied to the leather in order to reach the melting temperature of the thermoplastic co-polyamide web.
[0278] The pressure applied during heating may vary depending on application, but the pressure should at least be 2 bar or above, such as at least 3 bar or above, such as at least 4 bar and above.
[0279] The step of cooling the hot-melted glue actively or passively should preferably be done under elevated pressure, enough to both fixate the bonded/gradually bonding leather layers and also ensure that the glue is kept within the non-woven fiber structures of the leather layers to the widest degree possible. Elevated temperature may be e.g. 1 bar, but it also makes sense to apply a pressure comparable to the pressure applied through heating.
[0280] It should be noted that the pressure applied during cooling may advantageously be applied in another machine than the machine applied during pressure and heating.
[0281] Leather pieces illustrated in the above description e.g. as exemplified in
[0282] Leather types that may be useful within the scope of the invention are types such as
[0283] Examples of leather types that may be used within the scope of invention may be types such as full grain or top grain leather, embossed grain leather, suede and nubuck.
[0284] Leather pieces may be cut out to relevant pieces depending on application by suitable cutting tools prior to lamination or adherence to adhesive. The leather may also be laminated or applied an adhesive prior to cutting the leather into suitable pieces.
[0285] The invention has been exemplified above with reference to specific examples of the parts of the shoe and methods of adhering parts of the shoe. However, it should be understood that the invention is not limited to the particular examples described above but may be designed and altered in a multitude of varies within the scope of the invention as specified in the claims.
[0286] In principle, the method may be carried out with any type of leather. However, typically the leather will have already been tanned and post tanned. Tanning and post tanning of leather is well known in the art and need not be described in detail here.
[0287] Any type of tanned leather may be used, including metal tanned (e.g. using chromium, aluminum, zirconium, titanium, iron or combinations thereof), vegetable tanned (e.g. using tannins from bark or other sources), or natural tanning. Typically, the leather is tanned with chrome or vegetable tanned, with chrome tanned leather being most often used.
[0288] In principle, there is no upper limit to the thickness of the leather used in the method. However, the reinforcing fabric provides strength to the laminate formed by the method, so the leather need not be overly thick. Moreover, if the leather is too thin, the adhesive can penetrate the entire thickness of the leather, fixing it and thus preventing the surface texture from developing during milling. Consequently, the leather is typically from 0.1 to 4 mm thick, more typically from 0.2 to 3.2 mm thick, or even 0.3 to 2 mm thick.
[0289] An advantage of the laminate is very thin leathers can be used which retain the unique surface texture obtainable by the method of the disclosure, are lightweight and flexible yet strong due to the reinforcing fabric. The laminates formed from thinner leathers are therefore particularly desirable.
[0290] Thinner leathers that are typically used include from 0.3 to 1.6 mm, or 0.3 to 1.2 mm, or even 0.3 to 0.9 mm, with 0.4 to 0.8 mm being the most preferred.
[0291] The method disclosed herein is most advantageous with thinner leathers, as the unique surface texture may be formed to provide very soft and supple leather. However, the leather is still very high strength due to the reinforcing layer, meaning that it can be used in a wide range of products.
[0292] Leather is a natural product that inevitably varies in thickness to some degree. Typically, the tolerated substance for a leather type is 0.2 mm, meaning that the sample thickness may vary by 0.2 mm over its area, such as 0.4-0.6 mm or 1.2-1.4 mm.
[0293] The thickness of leather can be calculated using Satra TM 1: 2004.
[0294] The thickness of a leather layer may e.g. be measured by a SATRA STD 483 “Thickness gauge for leather”
[0295] In principle, the leather can derive from any source, including cow hide, horse hide, goat skin, sheep skin, kangaroo hide and the like.
[0296] Leathers deriving from reptiles or fish have different surface properties on the skin side, and therefore develop a different surface texture during the method of the disclosure. Nevertheless, these types of leathers tend to have lower strengths (particularly fish leathers), and so can greatly benefit from being laminated to the reinforcing layer in accordance with the disclosure, to provide high strength laminates having unique surface textures.
[0297] Even so, preferably the leather is a mammal or marsupial leather (i.e. derives from a hide from a mammal such as a cow or horse, or a marsupial such as a kangaroo). Mammal leathers are most often used.
[0298] The method of the disclosure provides a characteristic and aesthetically pleasing surface texture to the second side of the leather. Typically, therefore the first side of the piece of leather is the flesh side, and the second side of the piece of leather is the skin side.
[0299] Desirably, the leather base layer and the leather attachment layers are top grain leather.
[0300] Tanning is used as the conventional ways of treating leather and may be applied to the invention. Depending on the compounds, the color and texture of the fabric may change. The technical definition of tanning is well known in the art, but briefly, according to Anthony D. Covington “Tanning Chemistry” chapter 10, the only strict definition of tanning is the conversion of a putrescible organic material into a stable material capable of resisting biochemical attack. Tanning involves a number of steps and reactions depending on the initial material and the final product. In the case of collagen, it is the sidechains that largely define its reactivity and its ability to be modified by the stabilizing reactions of tanning when leather is made. In addition, the chemistry of the backbone, defined by the peptide links, offers different reaction sites that can be exploited in some tanning processes. During the tanning process, modification of collagen by the chemistry of the tanning agent(s) affects the different features of the properties of the material; The hydrophilic—hydrophobic balance of the leather may be markedly affected by the chemistry of the tanning agent by changing the relationship between the leather and the solvent, which in turn could affect the equilibrium of any reagent between the solvent and the substrate. Also, the site of reaction between the reagent and the collagen may affect the isoelectric point of the collagen and consequently there could be a different relationship between pH and charge on the leather. The lower the isoelectric point, the more anionic or less cationic the charge on the pelt may be at any pH value: the higher the isoelectric point, the more cationic or less anionic the charge on the pelt will be at any pH value. Further, the relative reactions at the sidechains and the backbone of the protein could possible determine the type of reaction and hence the degree of stability of the tannage: the fastness of the reagent may be influenced by the interaction between reagents and the substrate.
[0301] Hydrothermal stability as used herein could possibly be measured through the shrinkage temperature (Ts) of a hide. This is the temperature at which the energy input (heat) exceeds the energy bound in existing hydrogen bonding of the collagen structure resulting in the decomposition of the helical structure. The shrinkage temperature for untanned hides is generally around 65 degrees Celsius. The Ts may be increased through the process of tanning.
[0302] Chromium(III) sulfate ([Cr(H2O)6]2(SO4)3) has long been regarded as the most efficient and effective tanning agent. Chromium(III) compounds of the sort used in tanning are significantly less toxic than hexavalent chromium. Chromium(III) sulfate dissolves to give the hexaaquachromium(III) cation, [Cr(H2O)6]3+, which at higher pH undergoes processes called olation to give polychromium(III) compounds that are active in tanning being the cross-linking of the collagen subunits. The chemistry of [Cr(H2O)6]3+ is more complex in the tanning bath rather than in water due to the presence of a variety of ligands. Some ligands include the sulfate anion, the collagen's carboxyl groups, amine groups from the side chains of the amino acids, and masking agents. Masking agents are carboxylic acids, such as acetic acid, used to suppress formation of polychromium(III) chains. Masking agents allow the tanner to further increase the pH to increase collagen's reactivity without inhibiting the penetration of the chromium(III) complexes.
[0303] Collagen is characterized by a high content of glycine, proline, and hydroxyproline, usually in the repeat -gly-pro-hypro-gly-. These residues give rise to collagen's helical structure. Collagen's high content of hydroxyproline allows for significant cross-linking by hydrogen bonding within the helical structure. Ionized carboxyl groups (RCO2-) are formed by hydrolysis of the collagen by the action of hydroxide. This conversion occurs during the liming process, before introduction of the tanning agent (chromium salts). The ionized carboxyl groups coordinate as ligands to the chromium(III) centers of the oxo-hydroxide clusters.
[0304] Tanning increases the spacing between protein chains in collagen from 10 to 17 Å. The difference is consistent with cross-linking by polychromium species, of the sort arising from olation and oxolation.
[0305] One way of performing a tanning is explained in the following. Prior to the introduction of the basic chromium species in tanning, several steps are required to produce a tannable hide. The pH must be very acidic when the chromium is introduced to ensure that the chromium complexes are small enough to fit in between the fibers and residues of the collagen. Once the desired level of penetration of chrome into the substance is achieved, the pH of the material is raised again to facilitate the process. This step is known as basification. In the raw state, chrome-tanned skins are greyish-blue, so are referred to as wet blue. Chrome tanning is faster than vegetable tanning (less than a day for this part of the process) and produces a stretchable leather which is excellent for use in handbags and garments.
[0306] Subsequent to application of the chromium agent, the bath is treated with sodium bicarbonate to increase the pH to 4.0-4.3, which induces cross-linking between the chromium and the collagen. The pH increase is normally accompanied by a gradual temperature increase up to 40° C. Chromium's ability to form such stable bridged bonds explains why it is considered one of the most efficient tanning compounds. This efficiency is characterized by its increased hydrothermal stability of the skin, and its resistance to shrinkage in heated water.
[0307] The leather of a leather layer may typically comprise tanning agents in the amount of 3 to 12% by weight of the leather layer when the tanning agents includes chrome tanning agents.
[0308] The chrome tanning agents includes chromium, chromium salts and/or derivatives thereof.
[0309] The leather may as a further restriction in relation to the total content of tanning agent in the leather comprise chrome tanning agent(s) in the amount of 1 to 7% by weight of the leather, such as 2 to 6% by weight of the leather such as 2 to 5% by weight of the leather.
[0310] The specific content of chrome tanning in the amount of 1 to 7% by weight of the leather, such as 2 to 5% by weight of the leather is in particular attractive in relation to the inventive leather bonding as this content of chrome in the leather of the leather layers bonded makes is possible to use heat-activated adhesive to attach the leather to the reinforcing fabric. It is moreover, and even more advantageous in applications where the leather as to be steamed e.g. for purposes of shaping etc.
[0311] The chrome tanning agents includes chromium, chromium salts and/or derivatives thereof.
[0312] Fatliquoring refers to the process where fats/oils and waxes are fixed to the leather fibers. The primary function of fatliquoring is to prevent the fiber structure resticking during drying by providing an oil surface to the fiber structure. Any fatliquoring agents may be used, including anionic fatliquors such as sulfonated fatliquors and sulfited oils, soap fatliquors and cationic fatliquors. Nonionic fatliquors may also be used, including alkyl ethylene oxide condensates and protein emulsifiers. Multicharged fatliquors that are formulations of non-ionic, anionic and cationic fatliquors, may also be used for the fatliquoring process.
[0313] Raw material for the fatliquoring agents may be sea animal oils such as fish oil; land animal oils and fats such as claw oil, beef tallow, pig fat and bone fat; Vegetable oils and fats such as palm oil, sunflower oil, rapeseed oil, soybean oil, coconut fat, palm kernel fat and turkey red oil; waxes such as carnauba wax, montan wax and wool grease; synthetic fats such as paraffin oil, mineral oil, fatty alcohol and fatty acid ester.
[0314] It should generally be noted that further parts of a footwear may be made according to other methods or with further different means than the claimed leather assembly as long as least one part of the footwear is made with these inventive provisions or at least where leather layers have been bonded according to the inventive method.
[0315] The focus of the present application has generally been to improve parts of an upper of a footwear and no detailed information has been given regarding the fitting of an upper according to the provision of the invention to a sole, but it is within the ability of the skilled person to e.g. attach the upper to the sole by means of conventional cementing or injection molding.
[0316] In an embodiment of the invention, the only bonding of the two leather pieces, i.e. a leather base layer and a leather attachment layer is obtained through gluing.
[0317] In an embodiment of the invention, the only bonding of the two leather pieces, i.e. a leather base layer and a leather attachment layer is obtained through gluing.
[0318] In an embodiment of the invention, the footwear is stitch free.
[0319] The method described within the scope of the invention, wherein at least two leather pieces are bonded without stitches is advantageous. However, besides this method, other methods of adhering other leather pieces together in the resulting footwear may be applied either as replacing or by supplementing the gluing by other methods. Other methods that may be applied for other than the inventive bonding could e.g. be processes such as sewing including stitching or other relevant methods where stiches are applied in any kind.
[0320] Generally, when referring to cow as a source of hide for the leather, the reference refers to both calf or cow hides.
[0321]
[0322] The automatic footwear processing arrangement AFPA includes a number of units which may be applied in a footwear manufacturing line within the scope of the invention. Units may in the present context include separate units which may be gathered in other units or sub arrangements or a unit may be constructed as an arrangement including several co-operating units.
[0323] The automatic footwear processing arrangement AFPA include individual or co-working units as mentioned and described below.
[0324] The overall automatic footwear processing arrangement is designed to produce footwear or parts of footwear and the co-working units are configured to process leather footwear parts to be included in the manufacturing line. Footwear parts may typically refer to parts of a footwear which may be understood as a leather base layer LBL and a leather attachment layer LAL in relation to the inventive bonding within the scope of the invention.
[0325] The automatic footwear processing arrangement AFPA includes an input I and an output O.
[0326] Different further units may include a leather cutting arrangement LCA. The leather cutting arrangement may be configured for cutting out leather footwear parts, such as leather vamps, leather quarters, leather heels, etc. from larger leather layers. The footwear parts may also elsewhere in this application be more broadly referred to as a leather base layer LBL or a leather attachment layer LAL.
[0327] The arrangement may be configured for switching between different types, styles or designs of footwear parts and the output of the arrangement may not necessarily only be exactly one type of footwear part due to the fact that the subsequent adhesion between two footwear parts within the scope of the invention may be performed on different footwear parts and switch between footwear parts during the stacking process to follow. This is a completely different approach from stitching based lines, where such switch is basically impossible or pretty complex with today's stitching technologies.
[0328] A further unit may include a pre-adhesion processing arrangement PAPA. This unit is applied for automatically preparing the leather footwear parts for the subsequent bonding to other parts. This process may typically include removal of dust by suction, brushes or other applicable processes to ensure that the leather parts to be adhered are extremely clean as it has been experienced that contamination, e.g. from dust, fat, etc., may result in inferior final bonding of the footwear parts to be adhered. The automatic performing of this particular step is a great improvement in any footwear manufacturing line where leather parts of the footwear is to be bonded by adhering.
[0329] The pre-adhesion processing arrangement PAPA may include a number of preparation steps, including the above-mentioned, and the steps may be run according to pre-determined routines, i.e. a fixed number of pre-determined steps and the steps may each perform the pre-programmed task, e.g. at given time durations. This predetermined configuration may of course be changed and fit to the specific leather footwear parts to be processed. An alternative to such a pre-determined configuration is dynamically to adapt the process to the leather footwear parts in question e.g. by measuring data indicative of the state of the leather parts and thereby insert different steps, modify how steps are executed e.g. with respect to time.
[0330] A further unit must include an automatic stacking arrangement ASA. In this arrangement, two or more input footwear parts, i.e. at least a leather base layer LBL and a leather attachment layer LAL are automatically stacked to be at least partly overlapping. The stacking arrangement may be used simply to stack as the last preparation for activation of adhesive if the footwear parts have been pre-adhered with adhesive which may be activated after stacking. Alternatively, the unit may include a pre-adhering arrangement applying adhesive to the footwear parts previous to stacking or during stacking. The adhesive may be any of the types elsewhere referred to in this application, e.g. thermo adhesive, adhesive to be activated by radiation (e.g. UV), adhesive to be activated by chemistry etc. The pattern in which the adhesive is applied to the footwear parts may by performed automatically to ensure that the adhesive is only applied to where subsequent bonding is required. Alternative ways of applying adhesive may be to automatically position adhesive in the form of solid webs between the footwear parts.
[0331] The stacked footwear parts are then supplied to an automatic adhesive activation arrangement AAA. The arrangement is designed to activate the adhesive between the stacked parts. The activation may e.g. be by heating, radiation, ultrasonic, chemistry or any suitable way by means of which the desired activation and subsequent bonding may be obtained.
[0332] The stacked footwear parts, now with activated adhesive, may subsequently or simultaneously be subjected to pressure by an automatic pressure activation arrangement APA. This unit may be included in the above adhesive activation arrangement so as to subject the footwear leather parts to pressure and activation at the same time.
[0333] Subsequently the stacked and activated footwear parts are subjected to curing in an automatic curing arrangement ACA. This arrangement may be included in the above two arrangements or the stacked and activated footwear parts may be handed from the above units/arrangements to the automatic curing arrangement ACA as long as the footwear parts are still forced together under pressure until a sufficient bonding is obtained. The curing process, including control of temperature (actively), use of ambient temperature both at a predetermined time duration or e.g. dynamically determined by measuring of relevant process parameters or leather part parameters during the process. An efficient automatic control of curing time ensures the desired reliable bonding.
[0334] The curing may e.g. also, more specifically in relation to thermo activated adhesive, be performed by means of an optional automatic cooling arrangement ACOA.
[0335] Subsequent the bonded two or more footwear parts may be reintroduced into the system for automatic bonding to further leather footwear parts or it may be transferred automatically or manually into a finalization step where the footwear is finalized, e.g. with other footwear parts. The finalization may include manual process step in particular in relation to the process of converting the bonded 2D footwear parts into a 3D upper. Such process may include some manual but very limited stitching or even adhesion and then the footwear may be gathered with a sole, e.g. by cementing of the upper to a premade sole or by direct-injection of the sole to the upper and thereby outputting a final 3D footwear.
[0336] Subsequent process steps or supplementary process steps may be applied within the scope of the invention.
[0337]
[0338] As illustrated in
[0339] It should be noted that footwear comprising leather up until now during ages has been restricted or focused on applying stitching during the main process steps of the manufacturing of footwear. This is due to the fact that leather is extremely difficult to handle and adhesion may mainly have been applied for the purpose of attaching gadgets or used in other minor process steps where strength is not really an issue.
[0340] This is particular true in relation to stitching along the circumference or parts of circumferences of footwear parts, such as vamp, quarters, heel and/or tongue.
[0341] The illustrated configurations 10a-c are all within the scope of the invention with one or more of the illustrated units/arrangements as described in
[0342]
[0343]
[0344]
[0345]
[0346]
[0347]
[0348]
[0349]
[0350] This embodiment is arranged to active the adhesive A by heating, e.g. be heating either one or both automatic adhesive activation arrangement parts AAAP1, AAAP2, such that a thermoplastic adhesive A becomes pliable or moldable. In some embodiments of the invention, the bottom automatic adhesive activation arrangement part AAAP2 is a conveyer belt of a footwear production line. In this exemplary embodiment, the adhesive is activated using contact heating, but in other embodiments, the adhesive can also, for example, be activated using radiation, IR radiation, UV radiation, ultrasonics, chemistry, or any other suitable way by means of which the desired activation and subsequent bonding may be obtained. In any embodiment, the geometry of the automatic adhesive activation arrangement AAA is arranged to allow the adhesive to be activated, e.g. if the adhesive is activated by using radiation, the shape of the automatic adhesive activation arrangement parts AAAP1, AAAP2 allow the radiation to be applied to activate the adhesive.
[0351]
[0352]
[0353] In the exemplary embodiment illustrated in
[0354] In some embodiments of the invention, any of an automatic pressure activation arrangement APA, an automatic adhesive activation arrangement AAA, an automatic curing arrangement ACA, and an automatic cooling arrangement ACOA may be combined into a single device/arrangement. For example, a combined arrangement may apply pressure to an assembly of leather base layers LBL, adhesive A, and leather attachment layers LAL which are layered between the two parts of the arrangement. These two parts are in thermal contact with the assembly and are heated to activate the adhesive. Next, the two parts are cooled, e.g. actively cooled, to cure the adhesive.
[0355]
[0356] The conveyer belt CB is arranged to transport footwear parts or assemblies such as an assembly of at least one leather base part, at least one leather attachment part, and/or adhesive along a footwear production line. The parts or the assembly may for example be transported directly on the conveyer belt CB, may be attached to a fixture which is transported on the conveyer belt CB, or may located on a production tray which is transported on a conveyer belt CB. In some embodiments of the invention, footwear parts are moved along a production line using other types of conveyer systems. In some embodiments, the footwear is at least partly produced at a production station without using any of conveyer.
[0357] In the illustrated embodiment, the conveyer belt CB is associated with a visual detection system VDS. The visual detection system is arranged to survey footwear parts or assemblies on the production line. It may for example be based on cameras and/or sensors, and it may for example be arranged to detect anomalies, flaw, or inaccuracies in the footwear parts or assemblies. A visual detection system may thus for example be used to detect inaccurate cutting of a leather footwear piece, inaccurate application of adhesive, inaccurate placement or stacking of footwear parts etc. Based on the visual detection system, the production line may be manually and/or automatically arranged to handle such inaccuracies, for example using a three-way transfer 3WT.
[0358] In the illustrated embodiment, the conveyer belt CB and the visual detection system VDS is associated with a three-way transfer 3WT, which is arranged to act upon output of the visual detection system VDS. The three-way transfer 3WT may for example be a part of a production line and may be arranged to receive one or more items from the left side (of the illustration), and may either transfer these to the right side (of the illustration) or upwards (relative to the illustration), for example upwards to a quality inspection system QIS. The three-way transfer system is further arranged to receive items from the upwards direction and transfer these to the right side. As an example, the three-way transfer may be arranged to receive footwear parts and/or a footwear assembly and then either transfer any of these forward on the production line, and/or transfer any of these off the production line to a quality inspection system QIS based on input from the visual detection system. Further, the embodiment is arranged to receive footwear parts and/or a footwear assembly from the quality inspection system QIS and pass any of these forward on the production line. In other embodiments, the three-way transfer 3WT is associated with other modules than a quality inspection system QIS, for example any of a leather cutting arrangement LCA, a pick-and-place device PAPD, an adhesive application device AAPA, an automatic staking arrangement ASA, an automatic adhesive activation arrangement AAA, an automatic pressure activation arrangement APA, an automatic curing arrangement ACA, an automatic cooling arrangement ACOA, an automatic cutting arrangement ACUA, an automatic stitching arrangement ASTA, a fixture preparation module FPM, a sole attachment process SAP, a stacking device STA, etc.
[0359] A quality inspection system QIS may for example be arranged to detect inaccurate cutting of a leather footwear piece, inaccurate application of adhesive, inaccurate placement or stacking of footwear parts etc., for example using sensors, a camera, and/or manual inspection. For example, a visual detection system VDS may move items off the production line which are under suspicion of being incorrectly or inaccurately produced, and the quality inspection system may confirm or reject this suspicion, for example based on further measurements of the visual detection system VDS, based on measurements from an auxiliary visual detection system, and/or based on manual inspection. Any item, e.g. footwear part or assembly, which passes inspection is reintroduced onto the production line via the three-way transfer, for example via an automatic transfer after an automatic inspection, or at least partly manually after an at least partly manual inspection. A visual detection system VDS and/or a quality inspection system QIS may for example be based on comparison of one or more footwear parts with one or more reference images of those one or more footwear parts, to check whether those one or more footwear parts lies within a threshold tolerance of the one or more reference images.
[0360]
[0361] In embodiments of the invention, a robot may for example be an integrated as part of a three-way transfer 3WT, a quality inspection system QIS, a leather cutting arrangement LCA, a pick-and-place device PAPD, an adhesive application device AAPA, an automatic staking arrangement ASA, an automatic adhesive activation arrangement AAA, an automatic pressure activation arrangement APA, an automatic curing arrangement ACA, an automatic cooling arrangement ACOA, an automatic cutting arrangement ACUA, an automatic stitching arrangement ASTA, a fixture preparation module FPM, a sole attachment process SAP, a stacking device STA, etc.
[0362] In embodiments of the invention, a robot may for example be a robot arm, an articulated robot, a SCARA robot, a delta robot and a cartesian coordinate robot, but note that robots are not restricted to a particular type, and a skilled person may select any type of robot for a given part of a production line that skilled person finds suitable. A robot may for example be programmed to repetitively carry out specific actions over and over with a high degree of accuracy, for example relying on exact placement of footwear parts. A robot may also rely on e.g. a visual detection system VDS to locate footwear parts and perform a required operation. The robot illustrated in
[0363] The robot arm RARM in
[0364]
[0365]
[0366]
[0367]
[0368] Footwear parts LBL, LAL may be attached to a fixture FIX as exemplified in
[0369]
[0370]
[0371]
[0372]
[0373]
[0374]
[0375]
[0376]
[0377] Other embodiments of the invention employ an adhesive activation arrangement AAA which is essentially similar to the adhesive activation arrangement AAA shown in
[0378] In some embodiments, an infrared radiation emitter is used to bond adhesive to one leather part, e.g. a leather base layer LBL or a leather attachment layer, in contrast to bonding to two leather parts simultaneously. When only bonding an adhesive to a single leather footwear part, it is possible to more efficiently heat up the adhesive, since another footwear part does not necessarily block the line of sight from the infrared radiation emitter IRE to the adhesive A. After bonding the adhesive A to a first leather part, another second layer part may then be stacked with the first leather part prior to a second adhesive activation step.
[0379]
[0380] In the illustrated embodiment, one ultrasonic transducer UT is attached to each of the two adhesive activation arrangement parts AAAP1, AAAP2. In some embodiments, no ultrasonic transducers are attached to one of the two parts AAAP1, AAAP2. In some embodiments, more than one, for example two, three, four, five, six, or more than six, ultrasonic transducer UT is attached to one or both of the two parts AAAP1, AAAP2.
[0381] In some embodiments, adhesive activation is based on acoustic vibrations in the range from 20 kHz to 100 kHz, for example ultrasonic frequencies from 20 kHz to 100 kHz, such as from 20 kHz to 70 kHz, e.g. 20 kHz, 30 kHz, 35 kHz, 40 kHz or 70 kHz. In some embodiments, adhesive activation is based on acoustic vibrations in the range from 10 kHz to 20 kHz, for example 15 kHz.
[0382] Any ultrasonic transducer UT may receive a driving signal from at least one driver DRI, which is controlled by a controller CTR. The controller CTR may for example be arranged to automatically activate the driver DRI as part of a fully or partly automated footwear production line. In some embodiments, the driver DRI is activated based on manual input, for example a switch.
[0383]
[0384]
[0385]
[0386]
[0387]
[0388]
[0389] To summarize,
[0390] In other embodiments of the invention, an adhesive activation arrangement AAA may be configured to activate adhesive A to bond the adhesive A to a single footwear piece, e.g. a leather base layer LBL. Such a step may for example be performed prior to stacking an additional footwear piece, e.g. a leather attachment layer LAL, onto the adhesive A and bonding this additional footwear piece to the adhesive A by activating the adhesive A again. The step may for example be performed with the adhesive A surrounded by a leather base layer LBL on one side and a non-stick material such as Teflon on the other side. The non-stick material may then be removed from the adhesive prior to stacking an additional footwear piece.
[0391]
[0392] The illustrated automated footwear processing arrangement AFPA is composed of several steps, which may for example be carried out at a number of modules or workstations along a production line. In some embodiments of automated footwear processing arrangements AFPA, some modules are configured to carry out several of the illustrated steps. In some embodiments of automated footwear processing arrangements AFPA, some of the illustrated steps are excluded whereas in some embodiments of the invention, other steps not illustrated in the figure have been added. Some of the steps may for example be performed as exemplified in various embodiments throughout the description of the present invention, but the steps and arrangement/devices configured for performing the steps are not restricted to the presented examples. In the illustrated embodiment, a fixture FIX is used to facilitate part of the transportation of footwear parts between different steps. Generally, in embodiments of the invention, the transfer of footwear parts between the steps may for example also be performed as exemplified in any of the description of the present invention. In some embodiments, some of the individual steps may each be performed partly of fully automatically. And in some embodiments, some of the individual steps may each be performed partly of fully manually, within the scope of the claims.
[0393] In this embodiment, at least part of the automated footwear processing arrangement AFPA is aided by a visual detection system VDS. This system VDS may for example monitor at least some of the processes/steps of the automated footwear processing arrangement. In some embodiments, the visual detection system VDS is passive, in the sense that it does not supply an output upon which the automated footwear processing arrangement AFPA is operated. In some embodiments, the visual detection system is active, in the sense that it supplies an output which at least part of the automated footwear processing arrangement is operated upon, for example output based on data obtained by one or more cameras and/or one or more sensors. Cameras and sensors of the visual detection system may for example be distributed along key points of the automated footwear processing arrangement AFPA.
[0394] The processing arrangement AFPA receives leather L which is supplied to a leather cutting arrangement LCA which cuts the leather into footwear parts usable for producing footwear, for example one or more leather base layers LBL, one or more leather attachment layers LAL, and one or more other leather footwear parts LFP. These footwear parts LBL, LAL, LFP may then serve as input I for the automated footwear processing arrangement AFPA. In other embodiments, footwear parts LBL, LAL, LFP are provided to an automated footwear processing arrangement AFPA in a precut state, such that no leather cutting arrangement LCA is required as part of the automated footwear processing arrangement.
[0395] Any footwear parts LBL, LAL, LFP provided as input to the automated footwear processing arrangement AFPA are supplied to a pre-adhesion processing arrangement (PAPA). Here, any of the leather footwear parts LBL, LAL, LFP are prepared for further processing in the automated footwear processing arrangement AFPA. Particularly, any of the leather footwear parts may be cleaned to prepare for adding the adhesive, for example by removal of dust, fat, and other contamination. This may ensure improved bonding of leather parts LBL, LAL by the adhesive.
[0396] As a next step any footwear parts LBL, LAL, LFP is provided to a pick-and-place device PAPD which may pick up any of the parts and place them as required for further processing of the footwear/footwear parts. In the present embodiment, the pick-and-place device places at least some of the footwear parts on a fixture base layer of a fixture FIX. The fixture is supplied from a stack STA of fixtures, for example supplied from the stack STA by the pick-and-place device PAPD, of from a dedicated device for supplying a fixture form the stack STA of fixtures. In typical embodiments, some of the footwear parts are attached to the fixture base layer, for example be auxiliary adhesive, stitching, glue, clamps, or other attachment means. The process of attachment may for example be carried out by a dedicated attachment arrangement (not shown), for example an attachment arrangement capable of gluing or sewing. Any footwear parts to be processed which or not attached to the fixture base layer may for example lie on the fixture, for example on the fixture base layer or in a dedicated region of the fixture/frame of the fixture for un-attached footwear parts.
[0397] As a next step, the footwear parts and fixture are supplied to an adhesive application arrangement AAPA. Here, adhesive is applied to one or more footwear parts, for example one or more leather base layers LBL attached to the fixture FIX. Adhesive may for example be applied in the form of a web, a foil, or a fluid.
[0398] As a next step, the footwear parts and fixture are supplied to a three-way transfer 3WT. Here, the fixture and footwear parts may either be transferred on along the production line or transferred off the production line to a quality inspection system QIS. From the quality inspection system QIS, the footwear parts and fixture may be transferred back to the three-way transfer 3WT and onward on the production line. At the quality inspection system QIS, the footwear parts, any attachment to the fixture, and the applied adhesive may be inspected manually by a human operator HO, automatically by a camera or a sensor, or both manually and automatically.
[0399] After the three-way transfer, the footwear parts and fixture are supplied to an automatic stacking arrangement ASA. Here, footwear parts are stacked, for example such that at least one leather attachment layer LAL is stacked on at least one leather base layer LBL, with adhesive placed between any of the leather base layers LBL and leather attachment layers LAL.
[0400] As a next step, the footwear parts and fixture are again supplied to a three-way transfer 3WT associated with a quality inspection system QIS. As previously, the footwear parts, here particularly the stacking of footwear parts, may be inspected manually and/or automatically before the footwear parts and fixture is forwarded in the production line.
[0401] As a next step, the footwear parts and the fixture are supplied to an adhesive activation arrangement AAA. Here, the adhesive is activated to initiate bonding of any stacked leather base layers LBL and leather attachment layers LAL which have adhesive between them. The adhesive may for example be activated by heating, for example via resistive heating or ultrasonic transducers.
[0402] As a next step, the footwear parts and the fixture are supplied to an automatic pressure activation arrangement APA, automatic curing arrangement ACA, and/or an automatic cooling arrangement ACOA. In some embodiments, these three arrangements may for example be a single device. Preferably, the adhesive cures, for example by cooling passively, while footwear parts are fixed by pressure. This operation may be carried out by one or more arrangements APA, ACA, ACOA.
[0403] As a next step, the footwear parts and fixture are again supplied to a three-way transfer 3WT associated with a quality inspection system QIS. As previously, the footwear parts, here particularly the bonding of footwear parts, may be inspected manually and/or automatically before the footwear parts and fixture is forwarded in the production line.
[0404] As a next step, the footwear parts and fixture are supplied to an automatic stitching arrangement ASTA. Here sewing/stitching of footwear parts may be performed, at least partially automatically. The stitching/sewing may be performed as a supplement to the bonding of footwear parts using adhesive, or it may be performed to attach one or more other footwear parts to the footwear parts which have been bonded using adhesive. Such other footwear parts may have been supplied initially in the production line, e.g. a leather footwear part LFP from the leather cutting arrangement LCA, or it may have been supplied later in the production line (not shown). The automatic stitching arrangement ASA may be supplemented by other arrangements/devices, for example a pick-and-place device or an automatic stacking arrangement to prepare footwear parts for stitching.
[0405] As a next step, the footwear parts and fixture are supplied to an automatic cutting arrangement ACUA. Here, the footwear parts attached to the fixture are cut loose from the fixture by cutting the fixture base layer. The fixture base layer may for example be cut near the perimeter of the attached footwear parts. The part of the fixture base layer which is cut loose and which is attached to footwear parts may then serve as lining in the further processing of the footwear. However, note that embodiments of the invention are not limited to supplying footwear lining via the fixture base layer.
[0406] The frame FRA which have now been detached from the footwear parts are conveyed to a fixture processing module FPM, for example by means of one or more automated elevators, one or more conveyer belts, and/or manual movement. At the fixture processing module FPM, the frame FRA is attached to a new fixture base layer FLB to prepare a new fixture FIX which in turn is supplied to the stack STA of fixtures. Consequently, a continues supply of fixtures for automated footwear production is supplied by recycling the fixture frames FRA.
[0407] After the automatic cutting arrangement ACUA, the footwear parts are advanced to a three-dimensional phase 3D, in which the attachment of various footwear parts is performed while the footwear parts are in a three-dimensional configuration, as opposed to being in a two-dimensional configuration as was the case while footwear parts were being attached on the fixture. The three-dimensional phase 3D may for example include additional application, activation, and curing of adhesive or additional stitching, for example automated or manual stitching. In the present embodiment, the footwear parts are supplied to an automatic stitching arrangement ASTA, in which stitching is performed.
[0408] As a next step, the footwear parts are supplied to a sole attachment process SAP, in which a sole is attached to the footwear parts. In typical embodiments, the entire footwear upper, or at least most of the footwear upper, is assembled prior to this step, but note that embodiments of the invention are not restricted in this manner. The sole attachment process SAP may for example be based on injection molding/direct injection processing.
[0409] After a sole has been attached, a finalized piece of footwear FW has been produced as an output O of the automated footwear processing arrangement AFPA. The bonded leather base layer LBL and the leather attachment layer LAL has thus been integrated as part of a footwear FW.
[0410] Generally, embodiments of the automated footwear processing arrangement AFPA may include further supply and attachment of footwear parts required in the production of a complete piece of footwear FW. Generally, such further supply and attachment of footwear parts have been omitted to not obscure the description of the important steps and parts of the automated footwear processing arrangement AFPA. A skilled person may thus add and combine elements and steps of the illustrated automated footwear processing arrangement AFPA to ensure a complete piece of footwear, depending on the exact specifications of the footwear.
[0411] As shown in the illustration, one or more human operators HO may operate the automated footwear processing arrangement AFPA, but note that the invention limited in this respect. A human operator HO may for example operate one or more arrangements/devices which is part of the automated footwear processing arrangement AFPA. Further, a human operator may for example survey an inspect parts of the automated footwear processing arrangement AFPA.
[0412]
[0413] The invention has been exemplified above with the purpose of illustration rather than limitation with reference to specific examples of methods and systems for manufacturing footwear. Details such as a specific method and system structures have been provided in order to understand embodiments of the invention. Note that detailed descriptions of well-known systems, devices, circuits, and methods have been omitted so as to not obscure the description of the invention with unnecessary details. It should be understood that the invention is not limited to the particular examples described above and a person skilled in the art can also implement the invention in other embodiments without these specific details. As such, the invention may be designed and altered in a multitude of varieties within the scope of the invention as specified in the claims. For example, the presented automated footwear processing arrangements may be altered by rearranging, inserting and/or removing various workstations/modules/automated arrangements, for example to modify the adhesive-based footwear processing to any various purpose.