PULVERULENT/PASTY COMPOSITION COMPRISING A SILICONE ELASTOMER GEL, SOLID PARTICLES AND A HYDROCARBON-BASED OIL, AND LIP TREATMENT PROCESS

20180036210 ยท 2018-02-08

Assignee

Inventors

Cpc classification

International classification

Abstract

An anhydrous composition in powder or paste form, containing: 30% to 55% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, of a pulverulent phase containing organic, mineral or composite solid particles, and mixtures thereof; a mixture of at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in at least a first silicone or hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil, the content of organopolysiloxane elastomer representing from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, expressed as active material; and a binder phase representing 30% to 65% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, containing: a second non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil different from the first oils, the content of the second non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil representing greater than 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition; and optionally at least one wax in a content not exceeding 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

Claims

1. An anhydrous composition in powder form or in paste form, comprising: 30% to 55% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, of a pulverulent phase comprising organic, mineral or composite solid particles, and also mixtures thereof; a mixture of at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in at least a first silicone or hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil, the content of organopolysiloxane elastomer(s) representing from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, expressed as active material; a binder phase representing 30% to 65% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, comprising: at least a second non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil different from the first oils, the content of second non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) representing greater than 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition; optionally at least one wax in a content not exceeding 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in at least a first oil is free of hydrophilic chains.

3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in at least a first oil is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, optionally in the presence of a platinum catalyst (C).

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the solid particle(s) are chosen from coloured particles selected from the group consisting of organic, mineral or composite pigments, nacres, or from organic, mineral or mixed fillers, and also mixtures thereof.

5. The composition according to claim 4, wherein the content of coloured particle(s) represents from 5% to 25% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

6. The composition according to claim 5, wherein the organic, mineral or mixed filler(s) are chosen from talc; mica; fumed or non-fumed silica, which has optionally undergone a hydrophilic or hydrophobic treatment; perlite; kaolin; bentone; starch; boron nitride; hollow polymer microspheres; silicone resin microbeads; precipitated calcium carbonate; magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrocarbonate; hydroxyapatite; hollow silica microspheres; polyorganosiloxane elastomer particles; polyurethane particles; polyamide, polyethylene or polymethyl methacrylate powders, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, acrylic acid copolymer powders, lauroyllysine, hollow polymer microspheres, synthetic or natural micronized waxes, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms; glass or ceramic microcapsules; or mixtures thereof.

7. The composition according to claim 4, wherein the content of organic, mineral or composite filler(s), or mixtures thereof, represents from 10% to 40% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are chosen from polar or apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, or mixtures thereof.

9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are chosen from liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof, squalane, isohexadecane, isoeicosane, naphthalene oil, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes and hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, and also mixtures thereof.

10. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

11. The composition according to claim 8, wherein the polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are chosen from C.sub.10-C.sub.26 alcohols; ester oils; hydrocarbon-based plant oils; vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymers; C.sub.12-C.sub.26 fatty acids; dialkyl carbonates; and mixtures thereof.

12. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the binder phase comprises as second hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil(s): at least one apolar hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil chosen from hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, and also mixtures thereof, at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen more particularly from ester oils comprising at least 18 carbon atoms in total, or a mixture of these oils.

13. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-volatile silicon oil(s) is/are chosen from: polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), PDMSs comprising aliphatic groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each comprising from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, PDMSs comprising at least one aliphatic group and/or at least one functional group selected from hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups, polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof, cyclic silicones selected from octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl-cyclohexasiloxane or cyclopentasiloxane, or chosen from: a) phenyl silicone oils optionally bearing a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (I) below: ##STR00011## wherein the groups R, which are monovalent or divalent, represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl, b) phenyl silicone oils optionally bearing a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (II) below: ##STR00012## wherein the groups R represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl, c) phenyl silicone oils bearing at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (IV) below: ##STR00013## wherein Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000 and X represents CH.sub.2CH(CH.sub.3)(Ph), d) phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (V) below, and mixtures thereof: ##STR00014## wherein: R.sub.1 to R.sub.10, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, C.sub.1-C.sub.30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, with the proviso that the sum m+n+q is other than 0, e) phenyl silicone oils optionally bearing at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula, and mixtures thereof: ##STR00015## wherein: R.sub.1, R.sub.2, R.sub.5 and R.sub.6, which may be identical or different, are an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R.sub.3 and R.sub.4, which may be identical or different, are an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical, with the proviso that at least one of R.sub.3 and R.sub.4 is a phenyl radical, X is an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical, n and p being an integer greater than or equal to 1, chosen so as to give the oil a weight-average molecular weight of less than 200 000 g/mol, f) and a mixture thereof.

14. The composition according to claim 1, wherein at least a first oil is chosen from non-phenyl non-volatile silicone oils, from phenyl silicone oils optionally bearing a dimethicone fragment, or mixtures thereof.

15. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the binder phase comprises at least one additional non-volatile silicone oil different from the first oil(s), chosen from non-volatile phenyl silicone oils optionally bearing a dimethicone fragment.

16. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the weight proportion of additional non-volatile silicone oil(s) relative to the second hydrocarbon-based oil(s) is less than 0.5.

17. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of additional non-volatile silicone oil(s) ranges from 2% to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

18. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the binder phase comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based or silicone compound that is pasty at 25 C. and atmospheric pressure (1.01310.sup.5 Pa), chosen from: lanolin and derivatives thereof, polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, polymeric or non-polymeric fluoro compounds, vinyl polymers, linear or branched homopolymer or copolymer oligomers of alkyl (meth)acrylates, homopolymer and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters comprising C.sub.8-C.sub.30 alkyl groups, homopolymer and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers comprising C.sub.8-C.sub.30 alkyl groups, liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C.sub.2-C.sub.100, esters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

19. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of compound(s) that are pasty at 25 C. and atmospheric pressure represents from 1% to 25% by weight, relative to the composition.

20. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of pasty compound(s) relative to the content of the second hydrocarbon-based oil(s) and optionally of additional non-volatile silicone oil(s) and optionally of volatile oil(s) is less than 1.

21. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based or silicone volatile oil, in a content not exceeding 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

22. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C.sub.2-C.sub.8 polyol that is liquid at room temperature, comprising from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups.

23. The composition according to claim 22, wherein the content of liquid polyol(s) represents from greater than 0 to 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

24. A process for preparing a composition according to claim 1, comprising: preparing 30% to 55% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, of a pulverulent phase comprising organic, mineral or composite solid particles, and also mixtures thereof; preparing a mixture of at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in at least a first silicone or hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil, the content of organopolysiloxane elastomer(s) representing from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, expressed as active material; preparing an organic binder phase is prepared, comprising: at least a second non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil different from the first oils, the content of second non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) representing greater than 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, said binder phase comprising, at least one pasty compound, optionally at least one wax in a content not exceeding 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, optionally an additional non-volatile silicone oil, optionally a hydrocarbon-based or silicone volatile oil, and optionally at least one liquid polyol, the content of binder phase representing from 30% to 65% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition; and adding the binder phase and the mixture comprising the conveyed organopolysiloxane elastomer(s) to the solid particles with stirring, the mixture of elastomer(s) being introduced with the binder phase or separately therefrom.

25. A process for making up and/or caring for the lips, comprising applying the composition according to claim 1 to the lips.

Description

EXAMPLE 1

[0439] The compositions whose ingredients are listed in the table below are prepared (amounts expressed as weight percentages of starting material, unless otherwise mentioned), based on the weight of the composition:

TABLE-US-00002 Composition 1 Composition 2 Composition 3 Phase Ingredients (invention) (invention) (comparative) D Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl 0.02 0.02 0.02 Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (Tinoguard TT, BASF) A Talc 3.34 3.342 3.34 B Titanium dioxide 4.55 4.55 4.55 B Yellow 6 Lake 4 4 4 B Red 28 Lake 2.5 2.5 2.5 B Iron oxides 0.14 0.14 0.14 D Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 10.53 11.37 8.41 (Softisan 649, Cremer Oleo) D Diisostearyl malate 4.79 5.17 3.82 D Isostearyl isostearate 2.03 2.19 1.62 B Mica/lauroyllysine (Mearlmica 2.67 2.67 2.67 Treated SVA from BASF) B Mica (Mearlmica Treated SVA 19.14 19.14 19.14 from BASF) D Fragrance 0.1 0.1 0.1 D Hydrogenated polyisobutene 4.47 4.83 3.57 (Parleam from NOF) D Polyethylene (Asensa SC 21, 1.1 1.65 3.85 Honeywell) D Polyethylene (Performalene 500-L 0.9 1.35 3.15 Polyethylene, New Phase Technologies) B HDI/trimethylol hexyllactone 3.67 3.67 3.67 crosspolymer (Plastic Powder D400 from Toshiki Pigment) D Phenyl trimethicone (Dow Corning 3.06 3.31 2.45 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning) B Vinyl dimethicone/methicone 2 2 2 silsesquioxane crosspolymer (KSP100 from Shin-Etsu) D Dimethicone (and) dimethicone 29 26 29 crosspolymer (Dow Corning 9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dow Corning) D Ethylhexylglycerin 0.5 0.5 0.5 D Pentylene glycol 1 1 1 D Caprylyl glycol 0.5 0.5 0.5

[0440] Phases A and B are introduced into a Baker mixer and mixed for 3 minutes 30 seconds (paddle speed of 3000 rpm/emotor speed of 2700 rpm).

[0441] A mixture C is obtained, which is transferred into a kneader.

[0442] A homogeneous mixture of the ingredients of phase D is prepared by heating until phase D is fully homogenized, and it is added portionwise to mixture C, with gentle stirring, until the composition is fully homogenized.

[0443] The composition is then packaged in a dish.

[0444] In the case of compositions 1 and 2 according to the invention, with 2% and 3% of wax, respectively, a homogeneous, supple, cohesive paste is obtained, without exudation of oil. It is easy to take up and pleasant to apply.

[0445] A very comfortable thin, homogeneous, covering and matt deposit is obtained. It also has good colour persistence.

[0446] In the case of comparative composition 3 comprising a wax content of 7% by weight, the composition obtained is no longer in paste form, it is very hard and very difficult to take up.

EXAMPLE 2

[0447] The compositions whose ingredients are listed in the table below are prepared (amounts expressed as weight percentages of starting material, unless otherwise mentioned), based on the weight of the composition:

TABLE-US-00003 Composition 4 Composition 5 Phase Ingredients (invention) (comparative) A Talc 2.25 2.25 B Titanium dioxide 1.75 1.75 B Yellow Lake 6 4.50 4.50 B Red 28 Lake 4.40 4.40 B Red 22 Lake 7.50 7.50 B Mica (and) lauroyllysine (Mearlmica 2.67 2.67 Treated SVA from BASF) B Mica (Mearlmica Treated SVA from BASF) qs qs B Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane 2.00 2.00 crosspolymer (KSP100 from Shin-Etsu) B HDI/trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer 3.67 3.67 (Plastic Powder D400 from Toshiki Pigment) D Ethylhexylglycerin 0.50 0.50 D Pentylene glycol 1.00 1.00 D Caprylyl glycol 0.50 0.50 D Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (Softisan 12.14 12.04 649, Cremer Oleo) D Diisostearyl malate 6.94 1.00 D Isostearyl isostearate 2.94 D Hydrogenated polyisobutene (Parleam from 6.48 NOF) D Phenyl trimethicone (Dow Corning 556 15.46 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning) D Dimethicone (and) dimethicone 30.50 30.50 crosspolymer (Dow Corning 9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning)

[0448] Phases A and B are introduced into a Baker mixer and mixed for 3 minutes 30 seconds (paddle speed of 3000 rpm/emotor speed of 2700 rpm).

[0449] A mixture C is obtained, which is transferred into a kneader.

[0450] A homogeneous mixture of the ingredients of phase D is prepared by heating until phase D is fully homogenized, and it is added portionwise to mixture C, with gentle stirring, until the composition is fully homogenized.

[0451] The composition is then packaged in a dish.

[0452] A penetrometry measurement is performed by force measurement (expressed in g), using a Texture Analyzer TAXT2I machine from Texas Instruments, under the following conditions: [0453] Sample of product placed in a cylinder 12.5 mm in diameter and packed. Temperature 25 C.; punch: P0.5; punch speed before penetrating the sample: 1 mm/s; punch speed after penetrating the sample: 1 mm/s; penetration depth: 5 mm; force applied to penetrate the sample: 2 g

TABLE-US-00004 Composition 4 Comparative (invention) composition 5 Penetrometry (g) 74 112

[0454] The composition according to the invention, comprising a suitable content of hydrocarbon-based oil, is homogeneous, cohesive and supple.

[0455] The comparative composition, predominantly comprising a silicone oil, is homogeneous but more cohesive and less supple (which is corroborated by the penetrometry measurements of the two compositions).

[0456] The composition according to the invention is also slightly adhesive (tacky), which, combined with the preceding characteristics, makes it very easy to take up and to spread. The deposit obtained is not tacky, and is thin, homogeneous, covering and very comfortable. The persistence of the colour and of the matt effect are also very good.

[0457] As regards the comparative composition, it does not have this tack characteristic. Thus, combined with the other characteristics, it is less easy to take up and to spread. The deposit obtained is, however, comfortable on the lips, with good persistence of the colour and of the matt effect.

EXAMPLE 3

[0458] The composition whose ingredients are listed in the table below is prepared (amounts expressed as weight percentages of starting material, unless otherwise indicated), based on the weight of the composition:

TABLE-US-00005 Phases Ingredients Composition 6 A Talc 2.25 B Titanium dioxide 1.75 B Yellow Lake 6 4.50 B Red 28 Lake 4.40 B Red 22 Lake 7.50 B Mica (and) lauroyllysine (Mearlmica Treated SVA from 2.67 BASF) B Mica (Mearlmica Treated SVA de BASF) qs B Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer 2.00 (KSP100 from Shin-Etsu) B HDI/trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer (Plastic Powder 3.67 D400 from Toshiki Pigment) D Ethylhexylglycerin 0.50 D Pentylene glycol 1.00 D Caprylyl glycol 0.50 D Diisostearyl malate 9.58 D Isostearyl isostearate 4.01 D Hydrogenated polyisobutene (Parleam from NOF) 8.85 D Phenyl trimethicone (Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade 6.06 Fluid from Dow Corning) D Dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer (Dow Corning 30.50 9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning)

[0459] The composition obtained is homogeneous, cohesive and supple, and very easy to take up and to spread. The deposit is thin, homogeneous, covering and very comfortable, showing good persistence of the colour and of the matt effect.