LONG-WEARING, TRANSFER-RESISTANT COSMETIC COMPOSITION HAVING IMPROVED TACKINESS

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one silicone elastomer and at least one non-volatile oil at ratio from about 1:0.2 to about 1:10, at least one silicone resin, at least one volatile solvent and at least one polyorganosiloxane copolymer. The composition of the present invention may optionally contain wax, fillers and/or pigments. The invention also relates to a method for making up and enhancing the appearance of a keratinous substrate, in particular lips, by applying the incentive composition to the keratinous substrate.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising: (a) from about 1% to about 30% by weight of at least one silicone elastomer; (b) from about 2% to about 30% by weight of at least one non-volatile oil; (c) from about 2% to about 35% by weight of at least one polyorganosiloxane copolymer; (d) from about 5% to about 30% by weight of at least one silicone resin; (e) from about 5% or about 50% of at least one volatile solvent; (f) optionally at least one wax; (g) optionally at least one colorant; and (h) optionally at least one filler; wherein the ratio of the silicone elastomer (a) to the at least one non-volatile oil (b) is from about 1:0.02 to about 1:10; the weights being relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. The composition of claim 1 wherein the at least one silicone elastomer is non-emulsifying silicone elastomer.

3. The composition of claim 1 wherein the at least one silicone elastomer is at least one dimethicone crosspolymer.

4. The composition of claim 4 wherein the at least one dimethicone crosspolymer is present from about 2% to about 10% by weight being relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition of claim 1 wherein the at least one non-volatile oil is dimethicone fluid having a viscosity greater than about 300 cSt and lower than about 1200 cSt at 25 C.

6. The composition of claim 5 wherein the at least one dimethicone fluid is present in an amount from about 6% to about 20% by weight being relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition of claim 1 wherein the at least one polyorganosiloxane copolymer is Nylon-611/Dimethicone copolymer, present in an amount from about 7% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition of claim 1 wherein the at least one silicone resin is selected from siloxysilicate resin, silsesquioxane resin and mixture thereof.

9. The composition of claim 8 wherein the at least one silicone resin is present from about 10% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition of claim 1 wherein the at least one volatile solvent is present from about 15% to about 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition of claim 10 wherein the volatile solvent is selected from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

12. The composition of claim 1 further contains at least one colorant in amount from about 0.5% to about 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition of claim 1 further contains at least one wax in amount from about 0.01% to about 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. The composition of claim 1 further contains at least one filler in amount from about 0.1% to about 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. The composition of claim 1 wherein the composition is substantially free of non-volatile phenylated solvents.

16. A lipstick liquid composition comprising: a) from about 1% to about 30% by weight of at least one dimethicone crosspolymer; b) from about 2% to about 30% by weight of at least one non-volatile silicone oil having viscosity greater than or equal to 350 cSt; c) from about 2% to about 35% by weight of Nylon-611/Dimethicone copolymer; d) from about 5% to about 30% by weight of at least one siloxysilicate resin; e) from about 5% or about 50% of at least one volatile hydrocarbon solvent; f) optionally at least one wax; g) optionally at least one colorant; and h) optionally at least one filler; wherein the ratio of the silicone elastomer (a) to the at least one non-volatile oil (b) is from about 1:0.02 to about 1:10; the weights being relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. A method of making up lips comprising applying to the lips a lipstick composition comprising: a) from about 1% to about 30% by weight of at least one silicone elastomer; b) from about 2% to about 30% by weight of at least one non-volatile oil; c) from about 2% to about 35% by weight of at least one polyorganosiloxane copolymer; d) from about 5% to about 30% by weight of at least one silicone resin; e) from about 5% or about 50% of at least one volatile solvent; f) optionally at least one wax; g) optionally at least one colorant; and h) optionally at least one filler; wherein the ratio of the silicone elastomer (a) to the at least one non-volatile oil (b) is from about 1:0.2 to about 1:10; the weights being relative to the total weight of the composition.

Description

EXAMPLES

[0120] The present invention will be better understood from the examples which follow. The examples are intended to be nonrestrictive and explanatory only, with the scope of the invention defined by the claims.

[0121] Method of Preparation of Inventive Composition(s)

[0122] The mixture of pigment, isododecane and MQ resin was grinded to create a pigment paste. The blend was processed using Disconti Mill until the paste passed the Hegman Gauge test (ASTM D1210-05). Then, the paste grind was added to the remaining ingredients. The mixture was heated to 80 C. and stirred, until a homogeneous liquid composition was obtained. After that, the inventive composition was cooled down to the room temperature and transferred to desired containers and/or applicators.

[0123] Evaluation of Inventive Compositions: Methods and Test Results

[0124] The inventive compositions were tested for tackiness and flaking versus control and comparative compositions, Each of the tested products was tested five (5) times. Testing methods are described below.

[0125] Tack Testing

[0126] The films of each formula were deposited onto contrast cards using a 3 MIL drawdown bar and an Automatic Drawdown Machine. The films were dried at room temperature (25 C.) overnight and analyzed using a Texture Analyzer equipped with a ball probe. Tack force was measured after applying 350 g-force for 10 seconds. Then, the values of the tackiness were correlated to the comfort of wear of the tested products. The samples having the tackiness having values higher than 100 gr/force, were considered to be very uncomfortable to wear. The tack values between 50-100 gr/force, indicated medium comfort, and those with values of less than 50 gr/force were considered to be comfortable.

[0127] Flake Testing

[0128] Additionally, the samples were tested for flake resistant properties. The samples of all tested compositions were deposited onto the surface of Thera-Band intermediate resistance exercise band (75 cm), using a 3 MIL drawdown bar. The samples were allowed to dry for 4 hours at room temperature (25 C.) and then they were stretched to the length of 30 cm. The stretching was repeated ten (10) times for each of the samples. During the stretching process, hacking of the dry samples was observed and correlated with durability of wear of the tested products. To define the degree of samples' Hacking, the following four (4) point grading scale was used: 0no flaking (very good wear), 1low flaking (good wear), 2medium flaking (mediwn/acceptable wear) and 3high flaking (no wear).

TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 1 Lip Compositions containing DC 8040 silicone elastomer (18% active) Test results Control Compositions Inventive Compositions (% weight) (% weight) Ingredients 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 1 2 MQ 17.55 17.55 17.55 17.55 17.55 17.55 17.55 17.55 17.55 PSPA 9.78 9.78 9.78 9.78 9.78 9.78 9.78 9.78 9.78 1000 cst 12.21 12.21 12.21 6.65 6.65 9.98 9.98 0 0 Dimethicone fluid Pigment blend 6.41 6.41 6.41 6.41 6.41 6.41 6.41 6.41 6.41 Silicone resin 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 wax 8040 Silicone 25 13.89 36.11 25 13.89 25 36.11 25 13.89 elastomer *(18% (4.5%) (2.5%) (6.5%) (4.5%) (6.5%) (4.5%) (6.5%) (4.5%) (6.5%) active) Fillers and 4.83 4.83 4.83 4.83 4.83 4.83 4.83 4.83 4.83 Lauryl lysine Fragrance 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Isododecane QS QS QS QS QS QS QS QS QS Ratio of silicone 1:2.7 1:4.9 1:1.9 1:1.5 1:1.02 1:2.2 1:1.5 elastomer (% active):di- methicone Tack 1 8.5 5.3 9.8 14 12.1 7.5 34.8 77.7 81.3 Tack 2 6.1 6.4 10.1 18.1 13.2 6.7 7.1 76 69.4 Tack 3 7 5.5 7.4 15.9 13.3 8.6 29.5 63.7 82.9 Tack 4 7 5.5 7.1 18 11.1 7 11.5 59.4 75 Tack 5 5.8 7 8.6 19.7 16.7 9.5 37 58.8 88 Average Tack 6.9 5.9 8.6 17.1 13.3 7.9 24 67.1 79.3 Stdev 1.1 0.7 1.4 2.2 2.1 1.2 13.8 9.1 7.2 Flaking 1 2 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 All numerical values in the above table are weight percent active. *Dow Corning EL-8040 ID; INCI Name: Isododecane (and) Dimethicone

[0129] Inventive compositions of the liquid lip products containing DC 8040 Silicone elastomer and 1000cSt Dimethicone are represented but not limited by examples in Table 1, as shown below.

[0130] It was observed that the inventive compositions having the highest ratio of the silicone elastomer containing 18% of actives to the dimethicone oil was the least tacky indicating a very good comfort and had medium flaking, meaning that that the wear was considered to be good. The inventive formulations having lower ratios of the same silicone elastomer to the dimethicone fluid, were characterized by increased tackiness (decreased comfort) and improved flaking (better wear). The tackiness for the control samples without dimethicone oil, was very high meaning that the comfort of wear was very low, and shown no flakiness.

TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 2 Lip Compositions containing DC 9140 DM silicone elastomer (14% active) Test Results Control Composition Inventive Compositions (% weight) (% weight) Ingredients 8 9 10 11 12 13 3 MQ 17.55 17.55 17.55 17.55 17.55 17.55 17.55 PSPA 9.78 9.78 9.78 9.78 9.78 9.78 9.78 1000 cst 12.21 12.21 11 10 9 10 0 Dimethicone fluid Lauryl lysine 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Pigment blend 6.41 6.41 6.41 6.41 6.41 6.41 6.41 Silicone resin 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 wax 9140 DM 32.14 17.86 35.71 35.71 35.71 32.14 17.86 Silicone (4.5%) (2.5%) (5%) (5%) (5%) (4.5%) (2.5%) elastomer *(14% active) Fillers 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 Fragrance 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Isododecane QS QS QS QS QS QS QS Ratio of silicone 1:2.7 1:4.9 1:2.2 1:2 1:1.8 1:2.2 elastomer (% active):di- methicone Tack 1 6.3 6 8.9 6.3 14.7 5.6 103.6 Tack 2 6.8 5.5 6.8 7.4 8 9.1 108.2 Tack 3 5.7 5.6 7.2 7 10 6.9 104 Tack 4 6 6.1 7.9 7.8 11.7 7.2 89.1 Tack 5 8.8 5.8 8.2 8.7 9.4 10.2 74.2 Ave Tack 6.7 5.8 7.8 7.4 10.8 7.8 95.8 Stdev 1.2 0.3 0.8 0.9 2.6 1.8 14.1 Flaking 1 0 2 2 2 1 0 All numerical values in the above table are weight percent active. *Dow Corning EL-9140 DM; INCI Name: Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer

[0131] Inventive compositions of the liquid lip compositions containing DC 9140 DM Silicone elastomer and 1000cSt Dimethicone are represented but not limited by examples in Table 2, as shown below.

[0132] As per results presented in Table 2, the inventive samples having the highest ratio of the silicone elastomer (containing 14% of actives) to the dimethicone oil was characterized by the lowest tackiness and providing a very good comfort. The samples did not flake, meaning that they demonstrate a very good wear. The inventive formulations having lower ratios of the same silicone elastomer to dimethicone, had increased both, tackiness and flaking. The tackiness for the control sample was very high and had no flaking. That indicates that the absence of dimethicone significantly increased discomfort of wear, although the wear appeared to be improved.

[0133] Based on the result presented in the tables above, the absence of dimethicone oil significantly increased the tack. In addition, the decrease of the concentration of actives in silicone elastomer blends and the increase of dimethicone oil having high viscosity, caused the reduction of tackiness. As per the provided examples, the inventive lip liquid compositions having ratios of the silicone elastomer actives to dimethicone oil from about 1:0.05 to about 1:5 were considered to be very comfortable to wear with minimal or no hacking (good wear).

TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 3 Relation between viscosities of dimethicone oils and tackiness and flacking of lip liquid compositions Composition Composition Composition Composition Ingredients/ w/1000 cst w/350 cst w/100 cst without Test dimethicone dimethicone dimethicone dimethicone Results oil oil oil oil MQ 17.55 17.55 17.55 17.55 PSPA 9.78 9.78 9.78 9.78 1000 cst 12.21 0 0 0 Dimethicone fluid 350 cst 0 12.21 0 0 Dimethicone fluid 100 cst 0 0 12.21 0 Dimethicone fluid Caprylyl 0 0 0 12.21 methicone Lauryl lysine 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Pigment blend 6.41 6.41 6.41 6.41 Silicone resin 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 wax 9140 DM 17.86 17.86 17.86 17.86 Silicone elastomer* (14% active) Fillers 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 Fragrance 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Isododecane QS QS QS QS Tack 1 6.0 5.1 64.0 35.3 Tack 2 5.5 4.6 56.4 34.7 Tack 3 5.6 4.8 61.8 34.9 Tack 4 6.1 5.2 49.5 36.2 Tack 5 5.8 4.6 41.2 36.8 Ave tack 5.8 4.9 54.6 35.6 Stdev 0.3 0.3 9.3 0.9 Flaking 1 0 0 0 All numerical values in the above table are weight percent active. *Dow Corning EL-9140 DM; INCI Name: Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer

[0134] In order to determine the most suitable dimethicone fluid for this invention, three (3) dimethicone oils having different viscosity (at 25 C.) were tested for tackiness and flacking: 1000 cSt at, 350 cSt and 100 cSt.

[0135] Based on the results in Table 3, the composition which contained dimethcione oil having viscosity of 100 cSt, was the most tacky. It was followed by the composition which did not contain the dimethicone oil at all (including Comparative 3 from table 2), and formulation containing 1000 cSt dimethicone, and 350 cSt dimethicone respectively. All tested formulations were characterized by no flaking or minimal flaking.

TABLE-US-00006 TABLE 4 Evaluation of tackiness and flacking of commercial lip compositions Test Results Comparator A Comparator B Comparator C Tack1 80.9 11.1 119.1 Tack2 84.4 8.2 135.0 Tack 3 118.6 4.2 150.1 Tack 4 123.1 7.4 129.3 Tack 5 104.5 8.5 146.5 Average Tack 102.3 7.9 136.0 Standard deviation 19.2 2.5 12.7 Flaking 0 1 1

[0136] In order to define improvement of the inventive lip liquid compositions, three (3) commercially available long wear and transfer resistant lip products were studied for the flacking and tackiness. The compositions of the tested comparators are shown below, as well as the results of the tests.

[0137] Comparator A: (1 step color coat liquid lipstick): isododecane, trimethylsiloxysilicate, nylon-611/dimethicone copolymer, disteardimonium hectorite, lauroyl lysine, c30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane, alumina, propylene carbonate, synthetic fluorphlogopite, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, polyethylene terephthalate, parfum/fragrance, aluminum hydroxide, acrylates copolymer, benzyl alcohol, dimethicone, paraffin, tin oxide. [+/ may contain/peut contenir mica, ci 77891/titanium dioxide, ci 77491, ci 77492, ci 77499/iron oxides, ci 15850/red 7, ci 15985/yellow 6 lake, ci 45410/red 28 lake, ci 45380/red 22 lake, ci 19140/yellow 5 lake, ci 42090/blue 1 lake, ci 75470/carmine] f.i.l. d41008/5

[0138] Comparator B:

[0139] Base coat (2 step lip liquid products: color coat and liquid top coat): isododecane, trimethylsiloxysilicate, nylon-611/dimethicone copolymer, disteardimonium hectorite, lauroyl lysine, c30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane, alumina, propylene carbonate, synthetic fluorphlogopite, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, polyethylene terephthalate, parfum/fragrance, aluminum hydroxide, acrylates copolymer, benzyl alcohol, dimethicone, paraffin, tin oxide. [+/ may contain/peut contenir mica, ci 77891/titanium dioxide, ci 77491, ci 77492, ci 77499/iron oxides, ci 15850/red 7, ci 15985/yellow 6 lake, ci 45410/red 28 lake, ci 45380/red 22 lake, ci 19140/yellow 5 lake, ci 42090/blue 1 lake, ci 75470/carmine] f.i.l. d41008/5

[0140] Top coat (liquid): trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, is-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, ozokerite, cera alba/beeswax/cire dabeille, calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, tocopheryl acetate, parfum/fragrance. [+/ may contain/peut contenir mica, ci 77891/titanium dioxide, ci 77491/iron oxides]

[0141] Comparator C: (1 step liquid color coat lipstick): isododecane, Dimethicone, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Polyethylene, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Disteardimonium Hectorite, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Propylene Carbonate, Silica, Calcium Sodium Borosilicate, Methicone, Sorbic Acid. May Contain: Mica, Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891), Iron Oxides (Ci 77491, 77492, 77499), Red 7 Lake (Ci 15850), Red 6 Lake (Ci 15850), Yellow 5 Lake (Ci 19140), Red 33 Lake (Ci 17200), Yellow 6 (Ci 15985), Carmine (Ci 75470).

[0142] As per results presented above, commercially available long-wear, transfer resistant products did not provide a good comfort as indicated by very high tack values (over 100 gr/force). According to the data, Product C (1 step liquid lipstick) had the tackiness values above 100 gram/force, it was followed by product A (also 1 step liquid lipstick). However, the tackiness of Product B (2 step product involving color coat and top coat) was very low and comparable with tackiness of the inventive compositions (Table 1, examples 1-7).