Use of cosmetics against infrared radiation

Abstract

The disclosure relates to a cosmetic composition for use in protecting the human skin against infrared (IR) radiation. The cosmetic composition includes a first plant extract mixture of Green Coffee Seed Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Pongamia Pinnata Seed Extract, Angelica Archangelica Root Extract and Citrus Aurantium (Bitter Orange) Peel extract; a second mixture of vitamins E and C and derivatives thereof; a third mixture of particular materials of ruby powder, mica and titanium dioxide, the ruby powder having a particle size of d.sub.90<10 m; and cosmetic auxiliaries. The composition shows a synergistic effect because of a significantly higher degree of protection than the single groups of substances.

Claims

1. A method for preparation of a cosmetic composition for protecting the skin against IR radiation, the cosmetic composition consisting of: 0.05-1.0 by weight of a mixture of plant extracts of Green Coffee Seed Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Pongamia Pinnata Seed Extract, Angelica Archangelica Root Extract and Citrus Aurantium (Bitter Orange) Peel extract and vitamins E and C and derivatives of the vitamins; a mixture of particulate materials of 0.05-1% by weight ruby powder, 0.05-0.4% by weight mica and 0.05-10.0% by weight titanium dioxide, wherein ruby powder has a particle size of d9o<10 pm; and cosmetic auxiliaries up to a total amount of 100% of the composition, wherein the cosmetic auxiliaries do not comprise IR protecting ingredients; wherein the method comprises the steps of: a) preparing the mixture of plant extracts, b) adding the mixture of particulate materials; and c) adding the cosmetic auxiliaries.

2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the amount of all plant extracts in the cosmetic composition together is 0.008 to 0.9% by weight.

3. The method according to claim 1, wherein the amount of all plant extracts in the cosmetic composition together is 0.008 to 0.05% by weight.

4. The method according to claim 1, wherein the amount of all plant extracts in the cosmetic composition is no more than 0.009% by weight.

5. The method according to claim 1, wherein the amount of each of the plant extracts in the plant extract mixture is in the range 0.001 to 0.005% by weight of dry mass of plant extract and related to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

6. The method according to claim 1, wherein the amount of each of the plant extracts in the plant extract mixture is in the range of 0.0001 to 0.05% by weight of dry mass of plant extract and related to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

7. The method according to claim 1, wherein the vitamin derivatives are ascorbyl acetate, ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or mixtures thereof.

8. The method according to claim 1, wherein the vitamin derivative is ascorbyl palmitate.

9. The method according to claim 1, wherein the total amount of all vitamins and vitamin derivatives within the composition is 0.0003 to 0.02% by weight, related to the total weight of the composition.

10. The method according to claim 1, wherein the total amount of all vitamins and vitamin derivatives within the composition is 0.0003 to 0.005% by weight, related to the total weight of the composition.

11. A method for protecting the skin against IR radiation which comprises the application onto the human skin of a cosmetic composition prepared according to claim 1.

Description

(1) The invention shall now be described in detail for the cosmetic composition of the invention by examples. All figures given as percentages are % by weight, if not specified otherwise. In the following examples basically INCI-names of the ingredients are used.

EXAMPLE 1-3 EMULSIONS SPF 25-30

(2) TABLE-US-00001 Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Phase A Ethylhexyl Palmitate 3.7 3.7 3.7 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 7.9 7.9 7.9 Isopropyl Palmitate 3.0 3.0 3.0 TiO.sub.2 & Al(OH).sub.3 & Stearic Acid 0.5 1.5 2.7 Butyl Methoxydibenzoyl Methane 3.0 3.0 3.0 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol 2.0 2.0 2.0 Methoxyphenyl Triazine Octocrylene 1.5 1.5 1.5 Diethylhexyl Butamide Triazone 1.0 1.0 1.0 Stearic Acid 2.1 2.1 2.1 Tribehenin PEG-20 Esters 2.9 2.9 2.9 Phase B Water q.s. q.s. q.s. ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Disodium EDTA 0.05 0.05 0.05 Glycerine 7.5 7.5 7.5 Propylene Glycol 1.5 1.5 1.5 Potassium Cetyl Phosphate 0.5 0.5 0.5 Chlorphenesin 0.2 0.2 0.2 Ruby Powder (Trade name: Rubisa) 0.05 0.15 0.25 Mica & TiO.sub.2 (Trade name: Timiron 0.15 0.35 0.4 Starluster MP-115) Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose 0.35 0.35 0.35 Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate 0.21 0.21 0.21 Crosspolymer Phase C Cyclopentasiloxane 8.0 8.0 8.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.7 0.7 0.7 Phase D RPF Complex * 0.05 0.19 0.3 Mixture of vitamins E & C incl. 0.025 0.04 0.2 derivatives thereof (Trade name: Oxynex K) Triethanolamine 0.25 0.25 0.25 Perfume 0.4 0.4 0.4 Alcohol & Water 2.0 2.0 2.0 * RPF Complex: Green Coffee Seed Extract (2%), Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (2%), Pongamia Pinnata Seed Extract (2%), Angelica Archangelica Root Extract (2%), Citrus Aurantium Peel Extract (1%), all in wt-% related to the weight of the RPF complex mixture and encapsulated in lecithin liposomes and also comprising 5 to 10% by weight of an alcohol, and water and auxiliaries.

(3) Phases A and B are separately heated up while stirring till 75-80 C. Phase A is dispersed in phase B till homogeneity of the emulsion. The mixture is cooled down to 50-55 C. while stirring. Phase C is added to the mixture till homogeneity and the total mass is cooled to <30 C. Finally the ingredients of Phase D are added while stirring. The emulsion is homogenised.

EXAMPLE 4 COMPARATIVE TEST 1

(4) The protection from IR induced free radicals is stated by tests on skin biopsies.

(5) Human skin samples were obtained from surgery from healthy subjects. Skin flaps (about 11 cm) were washed with an isotonic NaCl solution. Adhered subcutis and fascia were removed. The epidermal/dermal skin sheet was kept on filters and on ice. Scavenging and accumulating of free radicals generated by IR radiation were realized by the spin trap PBN (Phenyl-tert-butylnitrone). The skin biopsies incubated for 10 min in the spin trap solution before irradiation.

(6) Different substance mixtures were applied to the skin surface of the skin flaps with an amount of 2 mg/cm.sup.2 followed by a storage of 15 min in the dark at room temperature before IR radiation. A punch biopsy (diameter 6 mm, thickness about 1 mm) was extracted from the skin flap and positioned in the sample holder. The sample holder was used for IR radiation and Electron Spin Resonance (ESR) measurement. The measurement was performed immediately after IR radiation.

(7) The used ESR X-band spectrometer was an ERS 300 (ZWG, Germany) with the following spectrometer settings: microwave frequency 9.52 GHz, microwave power 20 mW, modulation frequency 100 kHz, modulation amplitude 0.2 mT, magnetic field scan 20 mT. The IR exposure of the skin biopsies was carried out with an IR lamp SOLLUX 500, Germany, emitting a continuous spectrum in the IR range (700 nm to 1600 nm, with a very homogeneous beam over the surface. The skin biopsies were irradiated for 800 sec.

(8) Substance Groups Measured:

(9) TABLE-US-00002 A: Base formula *.sup.1 B: Base formula + particular materials (2.07% TiO.sub.2 + 0.18% Mica + 0.1% Ruby Powder) C: Base formula + plant extracts*.sup.2 + vitamins (First mixture plant extracts 0.1% + second mixture vitamins*.sup.3 0.05 %) D: Base formula of Group A + Particular materials of Group B (same concentrations) + Plant extracts and vitamins of Group C (same concentrations) *.sup.1 The base formula refers to the following composition % Emollients Ethylhexyl Palmitate & C12-15 Alkyl 13.0 Benzoate & Isopropyl Palmitate UV Filters Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane & 10.0 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate & Bis-Ethyl- hexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine & Octocrylene & Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone Emulsifying agents Stearic Acid & Tribehenin PEG-20 5.6 Esters & Potassium Cetyl Phosphate Water q.s. ad 100 Disodium EDTA 0.05 Humectants Glycerine & Propylene Glycol 7.0 Viscosity-increasing agents Hydroxypropyl 0.5 Methylcellulose & Acrylates/Cl 0-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Emollients Cyclopentasiloxane & Dimethiconol 7.8 Triethanolamine 0.3 Preservatives Chlorphenesin & Phenoxyethanol 0.9 *.sup.2Plant extracts: Green Coffee Seed Extract, Camellia Sinensis leaf Extract, Pongamia Pinnata Seed Extract, Angelica Archangelica Root Extract, Citrus Aurantium Peel Extract *.sup.3Vitamins: vitamin C, vitamin E, ascorbyl palmitate

(10) The protection (in %) of the substance groups measured is calculated by comparing the quantity of free radicals in protected and non protected skin. The results are: Group A: 0.0% protection Group B: 2.6% protection Group C: 9.1% protection Group D: 22.7% protection.

(11) The result shows nearly twice enhanced percents for Group D in comparison with the sum of Groups A+B+C (11.7%). This is a clear synergistic effect.

EXAMPLE 5 COMPARATIVE TEST 2

(12) A further comparison was made between a sun lotion of the invention with SPF 30 and a product of the market with a special IR-A protection complex (Ladival SPF 30 for kids).

(13) The measuring protocol was the same as in Example 4. The results are Product of the market 33% protection Product of the invention: 62% protection.

(14) This result underlines the synergistic effect presented in Example 4.