Oil-in-water emulsion comprising a specific surfactant system

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: (i) at least one lipophilic surfactant with HLB less than or equal to 9, and (ii) at least one specific anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate and/or sulfonate function; said composition comprising from 0% to 8% by weight of additional surfactant(s) relative to the total weight of the composition. It also relates to the associated cosmetic process.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition having the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: i) at least one lipophilic surfactant with HLB less than or equal to 9, (ii) at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one group selected from the group consisting of (C6-C30)alkylsulfonates, (C6-C30)alkylamidesulfonates, (C6-C30)alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, (C6-C30)alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyl(C6-C30)-N—(C1-C6)alkyltaurates, (C6-C30)acylisethionates, (C6-C30)alkylsulfolaurates, and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; said composition comprising from 0% to 8% by weight of additional surfactant(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein the cosmetic composition is phase inverted upon application, and wherein the additional surfactant(s), if present, do not comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein said lipophilic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of (poly)glycerol esters comprising from 1 to 10 glycerol units and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C24, fatty acid(s), polyglycerol esters comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and hydroxylated linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C24, fatty polyacids, polyglycerol ethers comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and C6-C24, esters of sorbitol and/or sorbitan and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C24 fatty acid(s), esters of sucrose and C12-C18 fatty acid(s), esters of methylglucose and linear or branched C12-C18 fatty acid, ethers of glucose and C12-C22 fatty alcohol, esters of glycol or polyethylene glycol and a C12-C22 fatty acid, and mixtures thereof.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein said lipophilic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of polyglycerol diesters comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units and hydroxylated fatty polyacids.

4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein said anionic surfactant is present from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein said lipophilic surfactant is present from 2% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 wherein said anionic surfactant and said lipophilic surfactant are present according to an anionic surfactant/lipophilic surfactant mass ratio R of between 1/10 and 1/5.

7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises at least one polysaccharide.

8. The cosmetic composition according to claim 7, wherein the polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of scleroglucan gum, xanthan gum and derivatives thereof, guar gum, Lara gum, ghatti gum, sclerotium gum, starches, agar, agarose, carrageenans, lambda carrageenan and kappa carrageenan, carob flour, alginates, celluloses and derivatives thereof, hydroxypropylguar, pectins and gellan gum.

9. The cosmetic composition according to claim 7, wherein the polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of a combination: scleroglucan gum and alginate, xanthan gum and alginate, and xanthan gum and guar gum.

10. The cosmetic composition according to claim 7, wherein the polysaccharide content is between 0.2% and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising one or more oils, selected from the group consisting of plant oils, alkane oils and ester oils.

12. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising one or more pigments having an average size by volume greater than 100 nm.

13. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising one or more tillers, and/or one or more pearlizers.

14. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one colorant.

15. A cosmetic composition having the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: i) at least one lipophilic surfactant with HLB less than or equal to 9, (ii) at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one group selected from the group consisting of (C6-C30)alkylsulfonates, (C6-C30)alkylamidesulfonates, (C6-C30)alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, (C6-C30)alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyl(C6-C30)-N—(C1-C6)alkyltaurates, (C6-C30)acylisethionates, (C6-C30)alkylsulfolaurates, and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; said composition comprising from 0% to 8% by weight of additional surfactant(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein the cosmetic composition is stable after storage at 25° C. for one month and/or at 55° C. for 15 days, and wherein the additional surfactant(s), if present, do not comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.

16. The cosmetic composition according to claim 15, wherein the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one colorant.

17. A cosmetic treatment process for keratin materials, comprising applying the cosmetic composition as defined according to claim 1 to said keratin materials.

Description

EXAMPLES

(1) 1. Compositions Without Pigments

(2) Compositions 1 to 6 as described below were made.

(3) Compositions 1 to 4 correspond to compositions according to the invention whereas compositions 5 and 6 correspond to compositions outside the invention. Compositions 5 and 6 outside the invention are distinguished from the compositions according to the invention in that they do not comprise the anionic surfactants as previously cited. For each of compositions 1 to 6 the duration of application or “playtime” was evaluated on the skin. For each of compositions 1 to 5 the stability was evaluated at 55° C. for 15 days.

(4) TABLE-US-00001 Composition Composition Composition Composition No. 1 No. 2 No. 3 No. 4 according to according to according to according to INCI name the invention the invention the invention the invention SODIUM HYDROXIDE qs pH = 5 qs pH = 5 qs pH = 5 qs pH = 5 BENZYL ALCOHOL 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 JOJOBA OIL 5 5 5 5 DICAPRYLYL ETHER 9 9 9 9 FRAGRANCE 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 XANTHAN GUM 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 SCLEROGLUCAN GUM 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 SODIUM ALGINATE 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 ETHYL ALCOHOL 3 3 3 3 WATER 65.03 qs 64 qs 64.84 qs 64.97 qs GLYCERINE 7 7 7 7 UNDECANE AND 5 5 5 5 TRIDECANE SODIUM METHYL — 1.5 — — COCOYL TAURATE (=0.45 AI) IN AQUEOUS DISPERSION AT 30% (1) SODIUM LAURETH — — 0.66 — SULFATE IN (=0.46 AI) AQUEOUS SOLUTION AT 70% (2) SODIUM LAURYL 0.47 — — — SULFATE( 3) POLYGLYCERYL-2 4 4 4 4 DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE (4) SODIUM COCOYL — — — 0.53 ISETHIONATE (5) (=0.47 AI) Anionic 1/9 1/9 1/9 1/9 surfactant/lipophilic surfactant mass ratio *AI: active ingredient (1) SODIUM COCOYL METHYL TAURATE IN AQUEOUS DISPERSION AT 30% BY WEIGHT OF ACTIVE INGREDIENT SOLD UNDER THE NAME HOSTAPON CT PATE ® BY CLARIANT; (2) SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE IN AQUEOUS SOLUTION AT 70% BY WEIGHT OF ACTIVE INGREDIENT SOLD UNDER THE NAME TEXAPON N702 ® BY BASF; (3) SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE SOLD UNDER THE NAME TEXAPON Z 95 P ® BY BASF; (4) POLYGLYCERYL-2 DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE SOLD UNDER THE NAME DEHYMULS PGPH ® BY COGNIS; (5) SODIUM COCOYL ISETHIONATE AT 88% BY WEIGHT OF ACTIVE INGREDIENT SOLD UNDER THE NAME HOSTAPON SCI 85 P ® BY CLARIANT.

(5) TABLE-US-00002 Composition Composition No. 5 No. 6 outside the outside the INCI name invention invention SODIUM HYDROXIDE qs pH = 5 qs pH = 5 BENZYL ALCOHOL 0.5 0.5 JOJOBA OIL 5 5 DICAPRYLYL ETHER 9 9 FRAGRANCE 0.1 0.1 XANTHAN GUM 0.4 0.4 SCLEROGLUCAN GUM 0.4 0.4 SODIUM ALGINATE 0.1 0.1 ETHYL ALCOHOL 3 3 WATER 64 qs 65.03 qs GLYCERINE 7 7 UNDECANE AND TRIDECANE 5 5 POLYGLYCERYL-2 4 4 DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE (4) SODIUM LAURYL GLUCOSE 1.5 — CARBOXYLATE (AND) LAURYL (=0.45 AI) GLUCOSIDE (6) DISODIUM CETEARYL — 0.47 AI SULFOSUCCINATE (7) Anionic surfactant/lipophilic 1/9 1/9 surfactant mass ratio *AI: active ingredient (6) SODIUM LAURYL GLUCOSE CARBOXYLATE (and) LAURYL GLUCOSIDE AT 30% BY WEIGHT OF ACTIVE INGREDIENT SOLD UNDER THE NAME PLANTAPON LGC SORB ® BY COGNIS (7) DISODIUM CETEARYL SULFOSUCCINATE SOLD UNDER THE NAME EUMULGIN PRISMA ® BY BASF
Manufacturing Process for Compositions 1 to 6 a. Using a saw-tooth blade, form the gel (xanthan gum+sodium alginate) at 80° C. in water containing glycerine and the preservative. Then add the hydrophilic surfactant just before emulsification at 55° C. b. During this period, heat the oil phase (containing jojoba oil, dicaprylyl ether and the mixture of undecane and tridecane) in the water bath at 55° C. c. At 55° C., with a rotor-stator, emulsify the oil phase on the aqueous phase. Stir vigorously for 5 minutes, then add the scleroglucan gum in a fine rain. d. Cool the emulsion formed to ambient temperature with gentle stirring. e. Add the ethanol and fragrance at ambient temperature then adjust the pH to 4.8.

(6) 1.1 Evaluation of the Stability of Compositions 1 to 5.

(7) Each of compositions 1 to 5 was stored at a temperature of 55° C. for a duration of 15 days. The macroscopic appearance was evaluated. The results obtained are presented in the table below after a duration of 15 days.

(8) TABLE-US-00003 Composition Composition Composition Composition No. 1 No. 2 No. 3 No. 4 according to according to according to according to Evaluated criterion the invention the invention the invention the invention Macroscopic appearance homogeneous, homogeneous, homogeneous, homogeneous, (to the naked eye) smooth, smooth, smooth, smooth, pliant, non- pliant, non- pliant, non- pliant, non- fluid cream fluid cream fluid cream fluid cream Composition No. 5 outside the Criteria evaluated invention Macroscopic appearance The colour changes (to the naked eye) from white to off- white and a transparent border at the surface
The results obtained show that compositions 1 to 4 according to the invention exhibit a macroscopic appearance that does not change over time (15 days) at a temperature of 55° C. by contrast with compositions 5 and 6 outside the invention. Accordingly, compositions 1 to 4 remain stable over time.

(9) 1.2 Evaluation of the Duration of Application or Playtime of Compositions 1 to 6 on Skin

(10) The playtime is measured by applying 50 μL of each of compositions 1 to 6 to a porous hydrophobic Durapore membrane filter GVHP® 0.22 μm by the company EMDMillipore exhibiting a diameter of 4.7 cm.

(11) The specific choice of this filter, which is hydrophobic and porous provides a support similar to that of skin and relevant to evaluate the criterion of playtime.

(12) The composition is spread on the filter with two fingers in a circular manner at a frequency of 1 circle per second. The result obtained corresponds to the duration (in seconds) necessary to produce total product penetration in the filter, also corresponding to the number of circles to produce total penetration of the product in the filter.

(13) The results obtained are shown in the table below.

(14) TABLE-US-00004 Composition Composition Composition Composition No. 1 No. 2 No. 3 No. 4 Evaluated according to according to according to according to criterion the invention the invention the invention the invention Duration of 68.8 55.4 69.6 61.2 application or “playtime” in seconds Composition Composition No. 5 outside No. 6 outside Evaluated criterion the invention the invention Duration of application or 44.2 41.2 “playtime” in seconds
The results above show that compositions 1 to 4 according to the invention have a longer duration of application on skin than those of compositions 5 and 6 outside the invention. Accordingly, the specific combination of surfactants according to the invention produces a satisfactory “playtime”.

(15) 2. Compositions Comprising Pigments

(16) Compositions 7 to 11 as described below were made.

(17) Compositions 7 to 10 correspond to compositions according to the invention whereas composition 11 corresponds to compositions outside the invention. For each of compositions 7 to 11 the stability was evaluated at ambient temperature (25° C.) for 2 months.

(18) TABLE-US-00005 Composition Composition Composition Composition No. 7 No. 8 No. 9 No. 10 according to according to according to according to INCI name the invention the invention the invention the invention SODIUM HYDROXIDE qs pH = 5 qs pH = 5 qs pH = 5 qs pH = 5 TITANIUM DIOXIDE 10.998 10.998 10.998 10.998 AND DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE AND ALUMINIUM HYDROXIDE (8) RED IRON OXIDE AND 0.477 0.477 0.477 0.477 ALUMINIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE AND ALUMINIUM HYDROXIDE (9) BLACK IRON OXIDE 0.198 0.198 0.198 0.198 AND DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE AND ALUMINIUM HYDROXIDE (10) YELLOW IRON OXIDE 2.322 2.322 2.322 2.322 AND DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE AND ALUMINIUM HYDROXIDE (11) MICA (SYNTHETIC 1.555 1.555 1.555 1.555 FLUOROPHLOGOPITE) (10-50 μM) (12) BENZYL ALCOHOL 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 JOJOBA OIL 5 5 5 5 DICAPRYLYL ETHER 9 9 9 9 FRAGRANCE 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 XANTHAN GUM 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 SCLEROGLUCAN GUM 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 SODIUM ALGINATE 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 ETHYL ALCOHOL 3 3 3 3 WATER 49.48 qs 48.45 qs 49.29 qs 49.42 qs GLYCERINE 7 7 7 7 UNDECANE AND 5 5 5 5 TRIDECANE SODIUM METHYL — 1.5 — — COCOYL TAURATE (=0.45 AI) IN AQUEOUS DISPERSION AT 30% (1) SODIUM LAURETH — — 0.66 — SULFATE IN (=0.46 AI) AQUEOUS SOLUTION AT 70% (2) SODIUM LAURYL 0.47 — — — SULFATE (3) POLYGLYCERYL-2 4 4 4 4 DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE (4) SODIUM COCOYL — — — 0.53 ISETHIONATE (5) (=0.47 AI) Anionic 1/9 1/9 1/9 1/9 surfactant/lipophilic surfactant mass ratio (1) SODIUM COCOYL METHYL TAURATE IN AQUEOUS DISPERSION AT 30% BY WEIGHT OF ACTIVE INGREDIENT SOLD UNDER THE NAME HOSTAPON CT PATE ® BY CLARIANT; (2) SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE IN AQUEOUS SOLUTION AT 70% BY WEIGHT OF ACTIVE INGREDIENT SOLD UNDER THE NAME TEXAPON N702 ® BY BASF; (3) SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE SOLD UNDER THE NAME TEXAPON Z 95 P ® BY BASF; (4) POLYGLYCERYL-2 DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE SOLD UNDER THE NAME DEHYMULS PGPH ® BY COGNIS; (5) SODIUM COCOYL ISETHIONATE AT 88% BY WEIGHT OF ACTIVE INGREDIENT SOLD UNDER THE NAME HOSTAPON SCI 85 P ® BY CLARIANT; (8) TITANIUM DIOXIDE AND DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE AND ALUMINIUM HYDROXIDE SOLD UNDER THE NAME NAI-TAO-77891 BY MIYOSHI KASEI; (9) RED IRON OXIDE AND ALUMINIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE AND ALUMINIUM HYDROXIDE SOLD UNDER THE NAME NAI-C33-8001-10 BY MIYOSHI KASEI; (10) BLACK IRON OXIDE AND DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE AND ALUMINIUM HYDROXIDE SOLD UNDER THE NAME NAI-C33-7001-10 BY MIYOSHI KASEI; (11) YELLOW IRON OXIDE AND DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE AND ALUMINIUM HYDROXIDE SOLD UNDER THE NAME NAI-C33-9001-10 BY MIYOSHI KASEI; (12) MICA (SYNTHETIC FLUOROPHLOGOPITE) (10-50 μM) SOLD UNDER THE NAME SYNAFIL S 1050 BY ECKART.

(19) TABLE-US-00006 Composition No. 11 outside the INCI name invention SODIUM HYDROXIDE qs pH = 5 TITANIUM DIOXIDE AND DISODIUM 10.998 STEAROYL GLUTAMATE AND ALUMINIUM HYDROXIDE (8) RED IRON OXIDE AND ALUMINIUM 0.477 STEAROYL GLUTAMATE AND ALUMINIUM HYDROXIDE (9) BLACK IRON OXIDE AND DISODIUM 0.198 STEAROYL GLUTAMATE AND ALUMINIUM HYDROXIDE (10) YELLOW IRON OXIDE AND DISODIUM 2.322 STEAROYL GLUTAMATE AND ALUMINIUM HYDROXIDE (11) MICA (SYNTHETIC FLUOROPHLOGOPITE) 1.555 (10-50 μM) (12) BENZYL ALCOHOL 0.5 JOJOBA OIL 5 DICAPRYLYL ETHER 9 FRAGRANCE 0.1 XANTHAN GUM 0.4 SCLEROGLUCAN GUM 0.4 SODIUM ALGINATE 0.1 ETHYL ALCOHOL 3 WATER 48.45 qs GLYCERINE 7 UNDECANE AND TRIDECANE 5 POLYGLYCERYL-2 4 DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE (4) SODIUM LAURYL GLUCOSE CARBOXYLATE 1.5 (AND) LAURYL GLUCOSIDE (6) (=0.45 AI) Anionic surfactant/lipophilic surfactant mass ratio 1/9 (6) SODIUM LAURYL GLUCOSE CARBOXYLATE AND LAURYL GLUCOSIDE AT 30% BY WEIGHT OF ACTIVE INGREDIENT SOLD UNDER THE NAME PLANTAPON LGC SORB BY COGNIS; (8) TITANIUM DIOXIDE AND DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE AND ALUMINIUM HYDROXIDE SOLD UNDER THE NAME NAI-TAO-77891 BY MIYOSHI KASEI; (9) RED IRON OXIDE AND ALUMINIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE AND ALUMINIUM HYDROXIDE SOLD UNDER THE NAME NAI-C33-8001-10 BY MIYOSHI KASEI; (10) BLACK IRON OXIDE AND DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE AND ALUMINIUM HYDROXIDE SOLD UNDER THE NAME NAI-C33-7001-10 BY MIYOSHI KASEI; (11) YELLOW IRON OXIDE AND DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE AND ALUMINIUM HYDROXIDE SOLD UNDER THE NAME NAI-C33-9001-10 BY MIYOSHI KASEI; (12) MICA (SYNTHETIC FLUOROPHLOGOPITE) (10-50 μM) SOLD UNDER THE NAME SYNAFIL S 1050 BY ECKART.
Preparation Process for Compositions 7 to 11. a. Using a saw-tooth blade, form the gel (xanthan gum+sodium alginate) at 80° C. in water containing glycerine and the preservative. Then add the hydrophilic surfactant just before emulsification at 55° C. b. During this period, heat the oil phase (containing jojoba oil, dicaprylyl ether and the mixture of undecane and tridecane) in the water bath at 55° C. When the mixture has reached 55° C., add the titanium oxide, iron oxides and mica using the saw-tooth blade. c. At 55° C., with a rotor-stator, emulsify the oil phase on the aqueous phase. Stir vigorously for 5 minutes, then add the scleroglucan gum in a fine rain. d. Cool to the emulsion formed to ambient temperature with gentle stirring. e. Add the ethanol and fragrance at ambient temperature then adjust the pH to 4.8.

(20) 2.1 Evaluation of the Stability of Compositions 7 to 11. Each of compositions 7 to 11 was stored at ambient temperature (25° C.) for a duration of 2 months. The macroscopic appearance and viscosity were evaluated. The results obtained are shown in the table below.

(21) TABLE-US-00007 Composition Composition Composition Composition No. 7 No. 8 No. 9 No. 10 according to according to according to according to Criteria evaluated the invention the invention the invention the invention Viscosity (in poises) at T 24 h 17 17.8 15.3 16.6 at ambient temperature Viscosity (in poises) at T 2 16.6 17 17 16.1 months at ambient temperature Macroscopic appearance homogeneous, homogeneous, homogeneous, homogeneous, (to the naked eye) smooth, smooth, smooth, smooth, pliant, non- pliant, non- pliant, non- pliant, non- fluid cream fluid cream fluid cream fluid cream Composition No. 11 outside the Criteria evaluated invention Viscosity (in poises) at T 19.9 24 h at ambient temperature Viscosity (in poises) at T 9 2 months at ambient temperature Macroscopic appearance brown mottling on (to the naked eye) the surface, less smooth, granular formula
The results above show that the viscosity of compositions No. 7 to 10 according to the invention remain constant whereas composition 11 outside the invention shows a viscosity drop of 10.9 poises, i.e. a viscosity drop of more than 50% relative to the initial value measured at T 24 h. Accordingly, the compositions according to the invention 7 to 10 remain stable for two months at ambient temperature by contrast with composition 11. Also, we observe that composition No. 11 outside the invention exhibits, after two months at ambient temperature, brown mottling on the surface, and a less smooth, granular appearance, by contrast with compositions No. 7 to 10 according to the invention whose macroscopic appearance does not change after 2 months at ambient temperature.