ANHYDROUS OIL BASED ON PARTICLES ENCAPSULATING A BENEFICIAL AGENT

20170209361 · 2017-07-27

    Inventors

    Cpc classification

    International classification

    Abstract

    The present invention relates to an anhydrous composition comprising:

    1) at least particles comprising a core containing at least one beneficial agent and an envelope surrounding the core; said envelope comprising at least one hydrophobically modified polysaccharide and at least one water-soluble carbohydrate and/or water-soluble polyol;
    said particles simultaneously having a poured powder density ranging from 300.0 g/l to 600.0 g/l and an absolute density of greater than 1.0; and
    2) an oily phase.

    The invention additionally relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or for making up a keratin material, which consists in applying to the surface of said human keratin material a consumer product comprising a composition as defined previously.

    The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating body odor and optionally human perspiration, which consists in applying to the surface of the keratin material a composition as defined previously comprising at least one deodorant active agent and/or antiperspirant active agent.

    Claims

    1. An anhydrous composition in oil form comprising: 1) at least particles comprising a core containing at least one beneficial agent and an envelope surrounding the core; said envelope comprising at least one hydrophobically modified polysaccharide and at least one water-soluble carbohydrate and/or water-soluble polyol; said particles simultaneously having a poured powder density ranging from 300.0 g/l to 600.0 g/l and an absolute density of greater than 1.0; and 2) an oily phase.

    2. The composition as claimed in claim 1, comprising a physiologically acceptable medium.

    3. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the particles are spherical and in particular have a number-mean diameter ranging from 1 to 30 m and a volume-mean diameter ranging from 5 to 150 m.

    4. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the hydrophobically modified polysaccharide is chosen from celluloses and hydrophobically modified derivatives thereof; starches and hydrophobically modified derivatives thereof, guars and hydrophobically modified hydroxyethyl-, carboxymethyl- and hydroxypropyl-guar derivatives; hydrophobically modified dextrans; hydrophobically modified pullulans, hydrophobically modified inulins.

    5. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the hydrophobically modified polysaccharide represents from 20% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the envelope of the particle.

    6. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the water-soluble polyol is chosen from triols, tetraols, pentols, hexols, heptols, octaols and nonanols, and mixtures thereof.

    7. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the water-soluble carbohydrate is chosen from water-soluble monosaccharides, water-soluble oligosaccharides and water-soluble polysaccharides.

    8. The composition as claimed in claim 7, in which the monosaccharides are chosen from tetroses, pentoses, hexoses and heptoses the oligosaccharides are chosen from diholosides, triholosides, glucose syrups and glucose-fructose; the polysaccharides are chosen from dextrans, pullulans and maltodextrins.

    9. The composition as claimed in claim 7, in which the water-soluble carbohydrate is chosen from water-soluble oligo- and polysaccharides.

    10. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the water-soluble carbohydrate(s) and/or the water-soluble polyols represent from 10% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the envelope of the particle.

    11. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the envelope of the particles with release of beneficial agent is formed from at least one starch (C.sub.5-C.sub.20)alkenyl succinate and from at least one maltodextrin with a D.E. ranging from 4 to 20.

    12. The composition as claimed in claim 11, in which the envelope of the particles with release of beneficial agent is formed from a) at least one starch (C.sub.5-C.sub.20)alkenyl succinate in an amount ranging from 20% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the envelope of the particle and b) least one maltodextrin with a D.E. ranging from 4 to 20 and/or a glucose syrup with a D.E. ranging from 21 to 60 in an amount ranging from 10% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the envelope of the particle.

    13. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the particles with release of beneficial agent may be obtained according to a process comprising at least the following steps: an aqueous solution formed from a mixture of the water-soluble carbohydrate and/or the water-soluble polyol and of the hydrophobically modified polysaccharide is prepared, the beneficial agent is then added and the whole is stirred so as to form an emulsion; and said emulsion thus formed is homogenized at high pressure at a pressure ranging from 10 to 200 bar; said emulsion is sprayed in a drying chamber; and the water is extracted for a time preferably not exceeding 3 hours, and more preferentially not exceeding 30 minutes, with a fluid under pressure so as to obtain particles with release of beneficial agent.

    14. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the beneficial agents are chosen from: (i) fatty substances; (ii) fragrancing substances; (iii) pharmaceutical active principles; (iv) cosmetic active agents.

    15. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the beneficial agents are chosen from fragrancing substances.

    16. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the particles comprise at least one or more fragrancing substances with a saturating vapor pressure at 25 C. of greater than or equal to 10.0 Pa and said fragrancing substance(s) represent from 50% to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the fragrancing substances present in the particles.

    17. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein a) the particles comprise at least one fragrancing substance and b) the composition also comprises at least one fragrancing substance in free form, which may be identical to or different from the fragrancing substance present in said particles.

    18. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein it exclusively contains one or more fragrancing substances encapsulated in the particles.

    19. The composition as claimed in claim 1, comprising at least one deodorant active agent and/or at least one antiperspirant active agent.

    20. A process for caring for and/or for making up a human keratin material, which comprises applying to the surface of said human keratin material a composition as claimed in claim 1.

    21. A cosmetic process for treating body odor and optionally human perspiration, which comprises applying to the surface of the keratin material a composition as claimed in claim 19.

    22. A consumer product, wherein it is formed from a composition as defined as claimed in claim 1.

    Description

    EXAMPLES OF PREPARING PARTICLES WITH RELEASE OF PERFUME

    Example A

    [0332] Capsules were prepared using the following composition:

    TABLE-US-00001 Composition Hydrophobically modified Water-soluble starch polysaccharide Perfume * Water Example A Amidon Capsul Potato 55 g 225 g from National maltodextrin Starch MD 20 P from 110 g Avebe 110 g
    * The perfume used has the following composition:

    TABLE-US-00002 Ingredients Amount in g Isopropyl myristate 20.5 Methyl dihydrojasmonate 15 2-Phenylethanol 8 1-(1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-Octahydro-2,3,8,8- 8 tetramethyl-2-naphthyl)ethan-1-one Hexylcinnamal 6 Tetrahydro-2-isobutyl-4-methylpyran-4- 6 ol Hexyl salicylate 6 Benzyl acetate 5 1,4-Dioxacycloheptadecane-5,17-dione 5 3-Methyl-5-phenyl-1-pentanol 5 Dihydromyrcenol 4 Orange terpenes 0.05% B H T 4 (limonene >95%) 2-Acetonaphthone 2 3a,6,6,9a- 1 Tetramethyldodecahydronaphtho[2,1- b]furan ,-Dimethyl-p-ethylphenylpropanal 1 1,3-Benzodioxole-5-carboxaldehyde 1 2-Isopropyl-5-methylcyclohexanone 1 1-Phenylethyl acetate 0.8 2,6-Dimethylhept-5-enal (Melonal) 0.5 2,4-Dimethylcyclohex-3-ene-1- 0.2 carbaldehyde (Triplal)

    Process for Preparing the Emulsion

    [0333] Potato maltodextrin MD20 P and Amidon Capsul (sodium salt of starch octenyl succinate) were mixed in water until dissolved, the perfume was then added and the whole was emulsified with a Heidolph Diax 900 Ultra-Turrax disperser (motor power 900 W with an electronically controlled speed of 8000 to 26 000 rpm) at the maximum power for 4 minutes.

    Drying Procedure for Obtaining Spherical Particles

    [0334] The emulsion obtained was then homogenized at a pressure of 30 bar using a high-pressure pump and then sprayed in an atomization chamber using a nozzle simultaneously with a stream of CO.sub.2 (30 bar, 45 C.) which was circulated continuously at a flow rate of about 500 g/min to remove the water. The dried powder was retained on a filter located at the base of the atomization chamber, and then collected after depressurization. 270 g of spherical microcapsules are thus obtained in the form of a fine white powder with a number-mean diameter of 7.8 m and a volume-mean diameter of 47 m.

    [0335] The size of the particles was measured via a dry route by laser scattering using a Microtrac S3500 particle size analyzer, the particle sizes being expressed by volume and by number.

    TABLE-US-00003 Measured characteristics of the capsules Amount Amount of of free Poured encapsulated perfume powder Absolute perfume (%) (%) density density Example A 19.8 <0.1 484 1.12

    Examples B to H

    [0336] According to the process described in Example A, the following capsules were prepared:

    TABLE-US-00004 Perfume Hydrophobically of modified Water-soluble Example Composition starch polysaccharide A Water Example B Amidon Capsul Maltodextrin 55 g 225 g from National MD 120 from Starch Tereos 110 g 110 g Example C Amidon Capsul Maltodextrin 55 g 225 g from National MD 170 from Starch Tereos 110 g 110 g Example D Amidon Capsul Maltodextrin 55 g 225 g from National MD 190 from Starch Tereos 110 g 110 g Example E Amidon Capsul Potato 105 g 225 g from National maltodextrin Starch MD 20 P from 110 g Avebe 110 g Example F Amidon Capsul Potato 55 g 225 g from National maltodextrin Starch MD 20 P from 154 g Avebe 66 g Example G Amidon Capsul Potato 55 g 225 g from National maltodextrin Starch MD 20 P from 66 g Avebe 154 g Example H Amidon Capsul Glucose syrup 55 g 225 g from National Glucodry G290 Starch from Tereos 110 g 110 g

    TABLE-US-00005 Measured characteristics of the capsules Amount Poured Amount of of free powder encapsulated perfume density Absolute Examples perfume (%) (%) (g/l) density Example B 19.3 <0.1 568 1.14 Example C 19.4 <0.1 490 1.16 Example D 19.9 <0.1 537 1.11 Example E 38 0.8 482 1.08 Example F 21.0 0.2 595 1.11 Example G 20.7 0.2 521 1.15 Example H 19.2 0.1 568 1.12

    Comparative Example I

    [0337] Capsules having the same composition as Example A as described above were prepared according to the process of Example 1 of patent U.S. Pat. No. 6,200,949 comprising drying by spray-drying (atomization) of the emulsion.

    [0338] The emulsion is dried by spray-drying using a Bowen Lab Model Dryer machine using air with a flow rate of 420 m.sup.3/h at a temperature of 204 C. and an external temperature of 93 C. and a turbine speed of 50 000 rpm.

    [0339] Morphological aspect of the particles obtained: polymorphous with aggregates

    Comparative Example J

    [0340] Capsules having the same composition as Example A as described above were prepared according to the process of Example 1 of patent U.S. Pat. No. 5,508,259 comprising drying by spray-drying (atomization) of the emulsion etc.

    [0341] The mixture was dried by spray-drying with a CCM Sulzer machine at an emulsion flow rate of 50 kg/h, air at a flow rate of 320 m.sup.3/h at 350 C. and 0.45 bar.

    [0342] Morphological aspect of the particles obtained: polymorphous with aggregates

    TABLE-US-00006 Measured characteristics of the capsules Amount Poured Amount of of free powder encapsulated perfume density Absolute Composition perfume (%) (%) (g/l) density Example I 18.3 2.7 259 1.16 (outside the invention) Example J 11.2 1.7 269 1.12 (outside the invention)

    Example 1: Antisun Oil

    [0343] An antisun oil having the following composition was prepared:

    TABLE-US-00007 Ingredients (weight %) Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 20 Castor oil 1.8 2-Ethylhexyl 4-hydroxycinnamate 0.1 Perfume capsules of Example A 0.6 Isopropyl palmitate qs Total 100.00

    [0344] 10.0 g of cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, 0.9 g of castor oil, 0.05 g of ethylhexyl hydroxycinnamate and 38.75 g of isopropyl palmitate are placed in a tank equipped with a stirrer.

    [0345] The mixture is homogenized with vigorous stirring (1000 rpm). 0.3 g of capsules of Example A is then added. The mixture is homogenized again with vigorous stirring (1000 rpm). A yellowish-white liquid was thus obtained.

    Comparative Examples C1 and C2: Antisun Oils

    [0346] In a manner similar to that of Example 1, anhydrous antisun oils having the following compositions were prepared:

    Example C1

    [0347]

    TABLE-US-00008 Ingredients (weight %) Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 20 Castor oil 1.8 2-Ethylhexyl 4-hydroxycinnamate 0.1 Perfume capsules of Example I 0.6 Isopropyl palmitate qs Total 100.00

    Example C2

    [0348]

    TABLE-US-00009 Ingredients (weight %) Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 20 Castor oil 1.8 2-Ethylhexyl 4-hydroxycinnamate 0.1 Perfume capsules of Example J 0.6 Isopropyl palmitate qs Total 100.00

    Evaluation Protocol

    [0349] About 0.2 g of composition was deposited homogeneously onto a perfume blotter. After 1 minute, the perfume odor intensity was evaluated. Perspiration was then simulated by adding about 0.1 g of water (three sprays) onto the deposited composition. After waiting for one minute, the blotter was smelled again.

    TABLE-US-00010 Odor intensity Odor intensity Oil BEF AFT Example 1 Odorless Strong perfume odor Example C1 Strong perfume Strong perfume odor odor Example C2 Strong perfume Strong perfume odor odor BEF = before addition of water; AFT = after addition of water

    [0350] It was thus observed at T.sub.0 that the oil of Example 1 comprising the perfume capsules according to the invention has no odor before the addition of water, in contrast with oils C1 and C2 (outside the invention), which shows that the perfume capsules in oils C1 and C2 are not leaktight even before the addition of water.

    [0351] It was also observed that the oil of Example, 1 after stimulation with water, led to a very intense odor, which demonstrates substantial release of perfume in response to the water stimulus.

    [0352] In a manner similar to that of Example 1, anhydrous antisun oils having the following compositions were prepared:

    Example 2: Antisun Oil

    [0353]

    TABLE-US-00011 Ingredients (weight %) Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 20 Castor oil 1.8 2-Ethylhexyl 4-hydroxycinnamate 0.1 Perfume capsules of Example B 0.6 Isopropyl palmitate qs Total 100.00

    [0354] The perfume capsules of Example B may be replaced with the capsules of Examples A and C to H described previously.

    [0355] 10.0 g of cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, 0.9 g of castor oil, 0.05 g of ethylhexyl hydroxycinnamate and 38.75 g of isopropyl palmitate were placed in a tank equipped with a stirrer. The mixture was homogenized with vigorous stirring (1000 rpm). 0.3 g of capsules of Example B was then added. The mixture was homogenized again with vigorous stirring (1000 rpm). A yellowish-white liquid was thus obtained.

    [0356] The composition applied to the body releases perfume in the course of the day, on contact with perspiration or moisture.

    Example 3: Antisun Oil

    [0357]

    TABLE-US-00012 Ingredients (weight %) Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 20 Mineral oil 1.8 2-Ethylhexyl 4-hydroxycinnamate 0.1 Perfume A 0.2 Perfume capsules of Example F 0.6 Isopropyl palmitate qs Total 100.00

    [0358] The perfume capsules of Example F may be replaced with the capsules of Examples A to E, G and H described previously.

    [0359] 10.0 g of cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, 0.9 g of castor oil, 0.05 g of ethylhexyl hydroxycinnamate 0.1 g of Perfume and 38.65 g of isopropyl palmitate were placed in a tank equipped with a stirrer. The mixture was homogenized with vigorous stirring (1000 rpm). 0.3 g of capsules of Example F was then added. The mixture was homogenized again with vigorous stirring (1000 rpm). A yellow-white liquid was thus obtained.

    [0360] The composition applied to the body releases perfume in the course of the day, on contact with perspiration or moisture.

    Example 4: Massage Oil

    [0361]

    TABLE-US-00013 Ingredients (weight %) Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 32 Caprylic/capric triglycerides 42.95 Isopropyl palmitate 22 Perfume capsules of Example H 1 Dimethicone/trimethyl siloxysilicate 2 Di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxytoluene 0.05 Total 100.00

    [0362] The perfume capsules of Example H may be replaced with the capsules of Examples A to G described previously.

    [0363] 11.0 g of isopropyl palmitate, 16.0 g of cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, 0.025 g of di-tert-butylhydroxytoluene, 21.475 g of caprylic/capric triglycerides and 1.0 g of dimethicone/trimethyl siloxysilicate were placed in a tank equipped with a stirrer. The mixture was homogenized with vigorous stirring (1000 rpm). 0.5 g of capsules of Example H was then added. The mixture was homogenized again with vigorous stirring (1000 rpm). A liquid was thus obtained.

    [0364] The composition applied to the body releases perfume during massaging and in the course of the day, on contact with perspiration or moisture.

    Example 5: Massage Oil

    [0365] Similarly, a massage oil having the following composition was prepared:

    TABLE-US-00014 Ingredients (weight %) Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 32 Caprylic/capric triglycerides 40.95 Isopropyl palmitate 22 Perfume capsules of Example H 1 Dimethicone/trimethyl siloxysilicate 2 Di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxytoluene 0.05 Perfume 2 Total 100.00

    [0366] The perfume capsules of Example H may be replaced with the capsules of Examples A to G described previously.

    [0367] The composition applied to the body releases perfume during massaging and in the course of the day, on contact with perspiration or moisture.

    Example 6: Massage Oil

    [0368] In a similar manner, a massage oil having the following composition was prepared:

    TABLE-US-00015 Ingredients (weight %) Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 32 Caprylic/capric triglycerides 40.95 Isopropyl palmitate 22 Perfume capsules of Example A 1 Dimethicone/trimethyl siloxysilicate 2 Di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxytoluene 0.05 Perfume 2 Total 100.00

    [0369] The perfume capsules of Example A may be replaced with the capsules of Examples B to H described previously.

    [0370] The composition applied to the body releases perfume in the course of the day, on contact with perspiration or moisture.

    Example 7: Hair Oil

    [0371] In a similar manner, a hair oil having the following composition was prepared:

    TABLE-US-00016 Ingredients (weight %) Sesame oil 15.0 Sweet almond oil 12.1 Isododecane 14.3 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 0.5 Hydrogenated polyisobutene 20.0 Perfume 3.0 Isopropyl palmitate 34.1 Perfume capsule of Example A 1.0

    [0372] The perfume capsules of Example A may be replaced with the capsules of Examples B to H described previously.

    [0373] After applying the composition to the hair, it is noted, when the individual perspires or on contact with sebum or moisture, that perfume is released in the course of the day.