GEL-TYPE COSMETIC COMPOSITION
20170189278 · 2017-07-06
Assignee
Inventors
Cpc classification
A61K8/891
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/8141
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/8152
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/895
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
A61K8/81
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/891
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
The present Invention is directed towards a cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising:at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent; andat least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; said phases forming therein a macroscopically homogeneous mixture; said composition also comprising at least one soft-focus filler.
Claims
1. Cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, comprising: at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent; and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; said phases forming therein a macroscopically homogeneous mixture; said composition also comprising at least one soft-focus filler.
2. Composition according to claim 1, comprising from 0.2% to 40% by weight of soft-focus filler(s) relative to the total weight of said composition.
3. Composition according to claim 1, in which said soft-focus filler(s) are totally or partly present in the gelled aqueous phase or are totally or partly present in the gelled oily phase.
4. Composition according to claim 1, in which said soft-focus filler(s) are chosen from polytetrafluoroethylene powders, polyurethane powders, carnauba microwaxes, synthetic wax microwaxes, silicone resin powders, hollow hemispherical silicone particles, acrylic copolymer powders, expanded vinylidene/acrylonitrile/methylene methacrylate microspheres, polyethylene powders, polymethyl methacrylate powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, starch powders, polyamide powders, powders of silica and silicates, hydrophobic aerogel particles, talc having a number-average size of less than or equal to 3 microns, silica/TiO.sub.2 composites, barium sulfate particles, boron nitride particles, silica particles surface-treated with a mineral wax at 1% to 2%, amorphous silica microspheres, silica microbeads, talc/TiO.sub.2/alumina/silica composite powders, silicone elastomers, spherical cellulose beads, and mixtures thereof.
5. Composition according to claim 1, in which said soft-focus filler(s) are chosen from acrylic copolymer powders, polymethyl methacrylate powders, talc/TiO.sub.2/alumina/silica composite powders, silica/TiO.sub.2 composite powders, hollow hemispherical silicone particles, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, starch powders, polyamide powders, spherical cellulose beads, and mixtures thereof.
6. Composition according to claim 1, comprising as synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent at least one gelling agent chosen from crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid copolymers.
7. Composition according to claim 1, comprising as synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent at least one copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate.
8. Composition according to claim 1, in which said lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, dextrin esters and polymers containing hydrogen bonding, and mixtures thereof.
9. Composition according to claim 1, comprising as lipophilic gelling agent at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer.
10. Composition according to claim 1, comprising as lipophilic gelling agent at least one gel of silicone elastomer dispersed in a silicone oil and/or a powder of organopolysiloxane elastomer coated with silsesquioxane resin.
11. Composition according to claim 1, containing, as hydrophilic gelling agent/lipophilic gelling agent system, a 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid copolymer/organopolysiloxane elastomer system.
12. Composition according to claim 1, containing the aqueous and oily phases in an aqueous phase/oily phase weight ratio of from 95/5 to 5/95.
13. Composition according to claim 1, in the form of a composition for caring for the skin of the body or the face.
14. Composition according to claim 1, also comprising at least solid particles.
15. Composition according to claim 1, also comprising volatile and/or non-volatile silicone oils.
16. Composition according to claim 1, also comprising at least one moisturizer.
17. Process for preparing a cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, comprising at least one step of mixing: an aqueous phase gelled with at least one synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent; and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; under conditions suitable for obtaining a macroscopically homogeneous mixture; said composition also comprising at least one soft-focus filler.
18. Process according to claim 17, comprising a step of mixing at least three or even more gelled phases.
19. Process according to claim 17, in which the mixing is performed at room temperature.
20. Cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, comprising at least one step which consists in applying to said keratin material a composition as defined according to claim 1.
21. Cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for a keratin material, comprising at least the application to said material of a macroscopically homogeneous composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, before application or at the time of application to said keratin material, of at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent, and of at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; and said composition also comprising at least one soft-focus filler.
Description
EXAMPLES
Example 1
Smoothing Care Composition According to the Invention
[0535] A smoothing care formulation in accordance with the invention is prepared as described below.
[0536] The components of phase A are weighed out in a beaker and stirred with a Rayneri blender, at room temperature.
[0537] The components of phase A1 are weighed out and then added to phase A at room temperature, and the mixture is then left to homogenize, by stirring with a Rayneri blender for 5 minutes, during which the walls of the beaker are scraped with a spatula.
[0538] After homogenization of the gel, the components of phases B and B1, which have been weighed out, are gradually added at room temperature until fully incorporated over 5 to 10 minutes, with vigorous stirring.
[0539] The walls are scraped with a spatula and the mixture is left to homogenize for 5 minutes with vigorous stirring using a Rayneri blender, at room temperature.
[0540] The formulation is prepared using the weight proportions described below.
TABLE-US-00001 Formulation (weight % relative to the total weight of Phase Compounds the composition) Phase A Water qs 100 Glycerol 10.00 Preserving agents 0.70 Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium 0.33 acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (Sepinov EMT 10 sold by the company SEPPIC) Phase Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer 12.00 A1 (and) butylene glycol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name EP-9801 Hydrocosmetic Powder Phase B Dimethicone 8.00 Phase Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane 16.00 B1 crosspolymer sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the name KSP-100
[0541] The composition according to the invention, when applied, shows very good soft-focus qualities. In particular, a marked decrease in pores is observed.
Example 2
Gel-Gel Compositions According to the Invention
[0542] In order to demonstrate the soft-focus properties of the gel-gel compositions according to the invention, measurements were taken.
[0543] 1) Preparation of the Gel-Gel Compositions
[0544] Formulations in accordance with the invention are prepared as described below.
[0545] The components of phase A are weighed out in a beaker and stirred with a Rayneri blender, at room temperature.
[0546] After homogenization of the gel, the components of phase B, which have been weighed out, are gradually added at room temperature, with vigorous stirring.
[0547] The gel-gel composition forms.
[0548] The mixture is left to homogenize with stirring using a Rayneri blender for about 5 minutes at room temperature, while scraping the walls of the beaker with a spatula.
[0549] The mixture is stirred vigorously with a Rayneri blender for about 5 minutes, at room temperature.
[0550] The formulation is prepared using the weight proportions described below.
TABLE-US-00002 Formulation (weight % relative to the total weight of Phase Compounds the composition) Phase A Water qs 100 Glycerol 6.60 Phenoxyethanol 0.98 Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium 3 acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (Sepinov EMT 10 sold by the company SEPPIC) Phase B Dimethicone 10.00 Dimethicone 84.5%/dimethicone crosspolymer 17.50 15.5% (2.71*) (DC9041 sold by the company Dow Corning) (*% of dimethicone crosspolymer solids)
[0551] 2) Addition of the Soft-Focus Fillers
[0552] Five gel-gel compositions as described above are prepared and in each of them a soft-focus filler is added in an amount equal to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the test composition.
[0553] Each of the following soft-focus fillers is tested:
dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) butylene glycol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name EP-9801 Hydrocosmetic Powder;
methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, sold by the company Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name Maquibeads SP-10;
talc (and) silica (and) alumina (and) titanium dioxide sold by the company Catalysts & Chemicals under the name Coverleaf AR-80;
vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer treated with PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, Polyquaternium-7 and methylsilanol tri-PEG-8 glyceryl cocoate sold by the company Miyoshi Kasei under the name MW-SRP-100; and
methysilanol/silicate crosspolymer sold by the company Takemoto Oil & Fat under the name NLK 506.
[0554] 3) Evaluation of the Soft-Focus Effect
[0555] The various formulations were spread to a thickness of 25 microns on a 50 m polyethylene film and the soft-focus effect of each composition was evaluated with various methods for measuring the total Transmittance and the Haze.
[0556] The Haze corresponds to the percentage of light scattered relative to the total transmittance according to standard ASTM D 1003 (Standard Test Method for Haze and Luminous Transmittance of Transparent Plastics).
[0557] The results are given in the table below:
TABLE-US-00003 Gel-gel composition Fillers Transmittance Haze EP-9801 Hydrocosmetic Powder 93.5 78.2 Maquibeads SP-10 93.2 68.8 Coverleaf AR-80 92.6 68.2 MW-SRP-100 93.3 68.1 NLK 506 91.4 57.8
[0558] A high Haze reflects a substantial soft-focus effect.
[0559] The gel-gel compositions incorporating the soft-focus fillers have high Haze values. Thus, it is proven that the gel-gel compositions according to the invention make it possible to obtain a substantial soft-focus effect.
Example 3
Comparison of the Effect of the Gel-Gel Compositions Relative to Aqueous or Oily Mono-Gel Compositions
[0560] The booster effect of the gel-gel compositions on the properties of the soft-focus fillers, compared with mono-gel compositions, was demonstrated by taking soft-focus measurements.
[0561] Thus, the properties of bi-gel compositions comprising different soft-focus fillers were compared with those of mono-gel compositions, containing the same fillers at the same concentration.
[0562] 1) Preparation of the Gel-Gel Composition
[0563] The gel-gel composition to which the fillers were added is the same as that of Example 2.
[0564] 2) Preparation of the Aqueous Mono-Gel Composition
[0565] The components of phase A are weighed out in a beaker and stirred with a Rayneri blender, at room temperature.
[0566] The component of phase B is weighed out in a capsule and added with vigorous stirring using a Rayneri blender to phase A, at room temperature.
[0567] The product thickens and the aqueous gel forms.
[0568] The mixture is stirred for about 5 minutes at room temperature, while scraping the walls of the beaker with a spatula, until fully homogenized.
[0569] The formulation is prepared using the weight proportions described below.
TABLE-US-00004 Formulation (weight % relative to the total weight of the Phase Compounds composition) A Water qs 100 Glycerol 9.10 Preserving agents 1.35 B Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium 4.15 acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (Sepinov EMT 10 sold by the company SEPPIC)
[0570] 3) Preparation of the Oily Mono-Gel Composition
[0571] The components of phase A are weighed out in a beaker and stirred vigorously with a Rayneri blender, at room temperature.
[0572] The gel forms.
[0573] The mixture is stirred for about two times 5 minutes at room temperature, while scraping the walls of the beaker with a spatula, until fully homogenized.
[0574] The formulation is prepared using the weight proportions described below.
TABLE-US-00005 Formulation (weight % relative to the total weight of the Phase Compounds composition) A Dimethicone 36.36 Dimethicone 84.5%/dimethicone 64.64 crosspolymer 15.5% (DC9041 sold by the company Dow Corning) (*% of dimethicone crosspolymer solids)
[0575] 4) Addition of the Soft-Focus Fillers
[0576] A soft-focus filler is added to each of the gel-gel and mono-gel compositions described above in points 1) to 3), in an amount equal to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the test composition.
[0577] Each of the following soft-focus fillers is tested in each of the aqueous gel-gel and mono-gel compositions:
dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) butylene glycol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name EP-9801 Hydrocosmetic Powder;
talc (and) silica (and) alumina (and) titanium dioxide sold by the company Catalysts & Chemicals under the name Coverleaf AR-80; and
vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer treated with PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, Polyquaternium-7 and methylsilanol tri-PEG-8 glyceryl cocoate sold by the company Miyoshi Kasei under the name MW-SRP-100.
[0578] The filler Methylsilanol/silicate crosspolymer sold by the company Takemoto Oil & Fat under the name NLK 506 was tested in the gel-gel composition and in the oily mono-gel composition.
[0579] 5) Evaluation of the Soft-Focus Effect
[0580] The various formulations were spread to a thickness of 25 microns on a 50 m polyethylene film and the soft-focus effect of each composition was evaluated with various methods for measuring the total Transmittance and the Haze, as indicated in Example 2.
[0581] The results are given in the table below:
TABLE-US-00006 Bi-gel Aqueous mono- Oily mono-gel composition gel composition composition Trans- Trans- Trans- Fillers mittance Haze mittance Haze mittance Haze EP-9801 93.5 78.2 93.4 41.2 / / Hydrocosmetic Powder MW-SRP-100 93.3 68.1 93.0 54.0 / / NLK 506 91.4 57.8 / / 93.0 44.7 Coverleaf 92.6 68.2 93.1 55.0 / / AR-80 /: not measurable since the nature of the filler (lipophilic or hydrophilic) is incompatible with the medium into which it is introduced.
[0582] As indicated previously, a high Haze value reflects a substantial soft-focus effect.
[0583] The gel-gel compositions incorporating the soft-focus fillers have the highest Haze values in comparison with the mono-gel compositions comprising the same fillers in the same content.
[0584] The gel-gel compositions thus have a booster effect on the properties of the soft-focus fillers, when compared with the aqueous or oily mono-gel compositions.