ANHYDROUS SOFT SOLID COMPOSITION BASED ON PARTICLES ENCAPSULATING A BENEFICIAL AGENT

Abstract

The present invention relates to an anhydrous composition comprising: 1) at least particles comprising a core containing at least one beneficial agent and an envelope surrounding the core; said envelope comprising at least one hydrophobically modified polysaccharide and at least one water-soluble carbohydrate and/or water-soluble polyol; said particles simultaneously having a poured powder density ranging from 300.0 g/l to 600.0 g/l and an absolute density of greater than 1.0; and 2) at least one fatty phase comprising at least one solid fatty substance and at least one oil; said composition having a hardness measured at 32 C. at a humidity of 40% ranging from 15 kPa to 150 kPa and preferably ranging from 20 kPa to 100 kPa.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or for the hygiene of and/or for conditioning and/or for fragrancing and/or for making up a keratin material, which consists in applying to said keratin material a composition as defined previously.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating body odor and optionally human perspiration, which consists in applying to a keratin material a composition as defined previously comprising at least one deodorant active agent and/or antiperspirant active agent in free form and/or in encapsulated form.

Claims

1. An anhydrous composition comprising: 1) at least particles comprising a core containing at least one beneficial agent and an envelope surrounding the core; said envelope comprising at least one hydrophobically modified polysaccharide and at least one water-soluble carbohydrate and/or water-soluble polyol; said particles simultaneously having a poured powder density ranging from 300.0 g/l to 600.0 g/l and an absolute density of greater than 1.0; and 2) at least one fatty phase comprising at least one solid fatty substance and at least one oil; said composition having a hardness measured at 32 C. at a humidity of 40% ranging from 15 kPa to 150 kPa.

2. The composition as claimed in claim 1, comprising a physiologically acceptable medium.

3. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the particles are spherical and in particular have a number-mean diameter ranging from 1 to 30 m and a volume-mean diameter ranging from 5 to 150 m.

4. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the hydrophobically modified polysaccharide is chosen from celluloses and hydrophobically modified derivatives thereof; starches and hydrophobically modified derivatives thereof, guars and hydrophobically modified hydroxyethyl-, carboxymethyl- and hydroxypropyl-guar derivatives; hydrophobically modified dextrans; hydrophobically modified pullulans, hydrophobically modified inulins and.

5. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the hydrophobically modified polysaccharide represents from 20% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the envelope of the particle.

6. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the water-soluble polyol is chosen from triols, tetraols, pentols, hexols, heptols, octaols and nonanols, and mixtures thereof.

7. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the water-soluble carbohydrate is chosen from water-soluble monosaccharides, water-soluble oligosaccharides and water-soluble polysaccharides.

8. The composition as claimed in claim 7, in which the monosaccharides are chosen from tetroses, pentoses, hexoses and heptoses; the oligosaccharides are chosen from diholosides, triholosides, glucose syrups and glucose-fructose syrups, and more particularly glucose syrups with a D.E. ranging from 21 to 60; the polysaccharides are chosen from dextrans, pullulans and maltodextrins.

9. The composition as claimed in claim 7, in which the water-soluble carbohydrate is chosen from water-soluble oligo- and polysaccharides.

10. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the water-soluble carbohydrate(s) and/or the water-soluble polyols represent from 10% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the envelope of the particle.

11. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the envelope of the particles with release of beneficial agent is formed from at least one starch (C.sub.5-C.sub.20)alkenyl succinate and from at least one maltodextrin with a D.E. ranging from 4 to 20.

12. The composition as claimed in claim 11, in which the envelope of the particles with release of beneficial agent is formed from a) at least one starch (C.sub.5-C.sub.20)alkenyl succinate in an amount ranging from 20% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the envelope of the particle and b) at least one maltodextrin with a D.E. ranging from 4 to 20 in an amount ranging from 10% to 80% by weight by weight relative to the total weight of the envelope of the particle.

13. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the particles with release of beneficial agent may be obtained according to a process comprising at least the following steps: an aqueous solution formed from a mixture of the water-soluble carbohydrate and/or the water-soluble polyol and of the hydrophobically modified polysaccharide is prepared, the beneficial agent is then added and the whole is stirred so as to form an emulsion; and said emulsion thus formed is homogenized at high pressure at a pressure ranging from 10 to 200 bar; said emulsion is sprayed in a drying chamber; and the water is extracted for a time preferably not exceeding 3 hours, with a fluid under pressure so as to obtain particles with release of beneficial agent.

14. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the beneficial agents are chosen from: (i) fatty substances; (ii) fragrancing substances; (iii) pharmaceutical active principles; (iv) cosmetic active agents.

15. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the beneficial agents are chosen from fragrancing substances.

16. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the particles comprise at least one or more fragrancing substances with a saturating vapor pressure at 25 C. of greater than or equal to 10.0 Pa and said fragrancing substance(s) represent from 500 to 1000 by weight relative to the total weight of the fragrancing substances present in the particles.

17. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein a) the particles comprise at least one fragrancing substance and b) the composition also comprises at least one fragrancing substance in free form, which may be identical to or different from the fragrancing substance present in said particles.

18. The composition as claimed in claim 1 it exclusively contains one or more fragrancing substances encapsulated in the particles.

19. The composition as claimed in claim 1, comprising at least one deodorant active agent and/or at least one antiperspirant active agent in free form and/or in encapsulated form.

20. A process for caring for and/or for the hygiene of and/or for conditioning and/or for fragrancing and/or for making up a human keratin material, which comprises applying to said human keratin material a composition as claimed in claim 1.

21. A cosmetic process for treating body odor and optionally human perspiration, which comprises applying to a keratin material a composition as claimed in claim 19.

22. A consumer product, wherein it is formed from a composition as defined as claimed in claim 1.

Description

EXAMPLES OF PREPARING PARTICLES WITH RELEASE OF PERFUME

Example A

[0544] Capsules were prepared using the following composition:

TABLE-US-00001 Composition Hydrophobically Water-soluble modified starch polysaccharide Fragrance* Water Example A Amidon Potato 55 g 225 g Capsul maltodextrin from National MD 20 P from Starch Avebe 110 g 110 g *The perfume used has the following composition:

TABLE-US-00002 Ingredients Amount in g Isopropyl myristate 20.5 Methyl dihydrojasmonate 15 2-Phenylethanol 8 1-(1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-Octahydro-2,3,8,8- 8 tetramethyl-2-naphthyl)ethan-1-one Hexylcinnamal 6 Tetrahydro-2-isobutyl-4-methylpyran-4-ol 6 Hexyl salicylate 6 Benzyl acetate 5 1,4-Dioxacycloheptadecane-5,17-dione 5 3-Methyl-5-phenyl-1-pentanol 5 Dihydromyrcenol 4 Orange terpenes 0.05% B H T 4 (limonene >95%) 2-Acetonaphthone 2 3a,6,6,9a- 1 Tetramethyldodecahydronaphtho[2,1- b]furan ,-Dimethyl-p-ethylphenylpropanal 1 1,3-Benzodioxole-5-carboxaldehyde 1 2-Isopropyl-5-methylcyclohexanone 1 1-Phenylethyl acetate 0.8 2,6-Dimethylhept-5-enal (Melonal) 0.5 2,4-Dimethylcyclohex-3-ene-1- 0.2 carbaldehyde (Triplal)

[0545] Process for Preparing the Emulsion

[0546] Potato maltodextrin MD20P and Amidon Capsul (sodium salt of starch octenyl succinate) were mixed in water until dissolved, the perfume was then added and the whole was emulsified with a Heidolph Diax 900 Ultra-Turrax disperser (motor power 900 W with an electronically controlled speed of 8000 to 26 000 rpm) at the maximum power for 4 minutes.

[0547] Drying Procedure for Obtaining Spherical Particles

[0548] The emulsion obtained was then homogenized at a pressure of 30 bar using a high-pressure pump and then sprayed in an atomization chamber using a nozzle simultaneously with a stream of CO.sub.2 (30 bar, 45 C.) which was circulated continuously at a flow rate of about 500 g/min to remove the water. The dried powder was retained on a filter located at the base of the atomization chamber, and then collected after depressurization. 270 g of spherical microcapsules are thus obtained in the form of a fine white powder of particle size

TABLE-US-00003 Measured characteristics of the capsules Amount of Amount Poured encapsulated of free powder Absolute perfume (%) perfume (%) density density Example 19.8 >0.1 484 1.12 A

Examples B to H

[0549] According to the process described in Example A, the following capsules were prepared:

TABLE-US-00004 Composition Polymer Hydrophobically Water-soluble of Ex- modified starch polysaccharide ample A Water Example B Amidon Capsul Maltodextrin 55 g 225 g from National MD 120 from Starch Tereos 110 g 110 g Example C Amidon Capsul Maltodextrin 55 g 225 g from National MD 170 from Starch Tereos 110 g 110 g Example D Amidon Capsul Maltodextrin 55 g 225 g from National MD 190 from Starch Tereos 110 g 110 g Example E Amidon Capsul Potato 105 g 225 g from National maltodextrin Starch MD 20 P from 110 g Avebe 110 g Example F Amidon Capsul Potato 55 g 225 g from National maltodextrin Starch MD 20 P from 154 g (70%) Avebe 66 g Example G Amidon Capsul Potato 55 g 225 g from National maltodextrin Starch MD 20 P from 66 g (30%) Avebe 154 g Example H Amidon Capsul Glucose syrup 55 g 225 g from National Glucodry G290 Starch from Tereos 110 g 110 g

TABLE-US-00005 Measured characteristics of the capsules Amount of Amount Poured encapsulated of free powder Absolute Examples perfume (%) perfume (%) density (g/l) density Example B 19.3 <0.1 568 1.14 Example C 19.4 <0.1 490 1.16 Example D 19.9 <0.1 537 1.11 Example E 38 0.8 482 1.08 Example F 21.0 0.2 595 1.11 Example G 20.7 0.2 521 1.15 Example H 19.2 0.1 568 1.12

Comparative Example I

[0550] Capsules having the same composition as Example A as described above were prepared according to the process of Example 1 of patent U.S. Pat. No. 6,200,949 comprising drying by spray-drying (atomization) of the emulsion.

[0551] The emulsion is dried by spray-drying using a Bowen Lab Model Dryer machine using air with a flow rate of 420 m.sup.3/h at a temperature of 204 C. and an external temperature of 93 C. and a turbine speed of 50 000 rpm.

[0552] Morphological aspect of the particles obtained: polymorphous and formation of aggregates

Comparative Example J

[0553] Capsules having the same composition as Example A as described above were prepared according to the process of Example 1 of patent U.S. Pat. No. 5,508,259 comprising drying by spray-drying (atomization) of the emulsion.

[0554] The mixture was dried by spray-drying with a CCM Sulzer machine at an emulsion flow rate of 50 kg/h, air at a flow rate of 320 m.sup.3/h at 350 C. and 0.45 bar.

[0555] Morphological aspect of the particles obtained: polymorphous and formation of aggregates

TABLE-US-00006 Measured characteristics of the capsules Amount of Amount Poured encapsulated of free powder Absolute Composition perfume (%) perfume (%) density density Example I (outside the 18.3 2.7 259 g/l 1.16 invention) Example J (outside the 11.2 1.7 269 g/l 1.12 invention)

Example 1: Deodorant and Antiperspirant Product

[0556] An antiperspirant anhydrous soft solid composition having the following composition was prepared:

TABLE-US-00007 Phase Ingredients (% by weight) A Tribehenin 5.6 (Syncrowax HRC-PA) C18-36 Acid Triglycerides 1.4 (Syncrowax HGLC-PA) Aluminum zirconium 18.7 tetrachlorohydrex glycine (Reach AZP-908) B Hydrogenated polydecene 24.6 (Silkflo 366 Polydecene) PPG-14 butyl ether 1.9 Dimethicone (viscosity: 10 cSt) 37.2 (Belsil DM 10) C Dimethicone (and) 1.9 dimethicone crosspolymer (Dow Corning 9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend) D Silica silylate 1.9 (Dow Corning VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles) E Calcium hydroxide 0.5 F Capsules of perfume of 6.3 Example A Total 100.00

[0557] Preparation Method

[0558] The two waxes (phase A) were weighed out and melted in a tank at 95 C.

[0559] The oils and the aluminum salts (phase B) were then mixed separately using a spatula at room temperature and this phase B was divided into three.

[0560] The silicone elastomer (phase C) was added to one third of phase B and the whole was homogenized with a spatula at room temperature until a homogeneous mixture was obtained.

[0561] The silica aerogel (phase D) was then weighed out in a large capsule and added cautiously to a second third of phase B with mixing until a smooth gel was obtained.

[0562] The calcium hydroxide (phase E) was also weighed out and introduced into the final third of the remaining phase B with Ultra-Turrax stirring at 1300 rpm for 15 minutes.

[0563] With the tank open, the three preceding preparations were added to the molten waxes and the resulting mixture was homogenized using paddles and a turbine (low speed) for 15 minutes at 90 C.

[0564] The perfume capsules of Example A were finally incorporated, with the tank open, and the whole was then homogenized with stirring for 5 minutes and left to cool. A white soft solid gel was thus obtained.

[0565] Evaluation Protocol

[0566] About 0.2 g of the composition of Example 1 was deposited uniformly onto a perfume blotter (reference from Granger Veyron: 40140BCSI of size 4 cm14 cm). After 1 minute, it was checked to ensure that it had no perfume odor. Perspiration was then simulated by adding about 0.1 g of water (three sprays) onto the deposited composition. After waiting for 60 seconds, the blotter was smelled again. A strong odor of perfume correctly corresponding to the encapsulated perfume was noted. 4 hours later, the same amount of water was sprayed on again and intense release of perfume was noted. 20 hours later, a re-evaluation was performed in the same manner, and the release of perfume was again noted.

Examples C1 and C2

[0567] In a manner similar to that of Example 1, antiperspirant anhydrous soft solids having the following compositions were prepared:

TABLE-US-00008 Example C1 Phase Ingredients (% by weight) A Tribehenin 5.6 C18-36 Acid Triglycerides 1.4 B Aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine 18.7 Hydrogenated polydecene 24.6 PPG-14 butyl ether 1.9 Dimethicone 37.2 C Dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer 1.9 D Silica silylate 1.9 E Calcium hydroxide 0.5 F Capsules of perfume of Example I 6.3 Total 100.00

TABLE-US-00009 Example C2 Phase Ingredients (% by weight) A Tribehenin 5.6 C18-36 Acid Triglycerides 1.4 B Aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine 18.7 Hydrogenated polydecene 24.6 PPG-14 butyl ether 1.9 Dimethicone 37.2 C Dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer 1.9 D Silica silylate 1.9 E Calcium hydroxide 0.5 F Capsules of perfume of Example J 6.3 Total 100.00

[0568] Evaluation Protocol:

[0569] About 0.2 g of composition was deposited onto a perfume blotter (reference from Granger Veyron: 40140BCSI of size 4 cm14 cm) and spread out homogeneously using a dry finger. The feel of the product was noted. After 1 minute, the perfume odor intensity was evaluated. Perspiration was then simulated by adding about 0.1 g of water (three sprays) onto the deposited composition. After waiting for 60 seconds, the blotter was smelled again.

TABLE-US-00010 Odor intensity Odor intensity Soft Solid Feel BEF AFT Example 1 Sparingly Odorless Very strong granular perfume odor Example C1 Granular Strong perfume Very strong odor perfume odor Example C2 Granular Strong perfume Strong perfume odor odor BEF = before addition of water; AFT = after addition of water

[0570] It was thus observed at T.sub.0 that the soft solid of Example 1 comprising the perfume capsules according to the invention has no odor before the addition of water, in contrast with Examples C1 and C2 (outside the invention), which shows that the perfume capsules in Examples C1 and C2 are not leaktight even before the addition of water. It was also observed that the feel of the soft solid of Example 1 was significantly less granular than that of Example C1 or C2.

[0571] It was also observed that the soft solid of Example, 1 after stimulation with water, led to a very intense odor, which demonstrates substantial release of perfume in response to the water stimulus.

[0572] The composition applied to the armpits leaves a deposit on the skin which gives off a perfume odor. The perfume is released in the course of the day when the capsules are in contact with perspiration.

Example 2: Deodorant and Antiperspirant Product

[0573] An antiperspirant anhydrous soft solid composition having the following composition was similarly prepared:

TABLE-US-00011 Phase Ingredients (% by weight) A Tribehenin 5.7 (Syncrowax HRC-PA) C18-36 Acid Triglycerides 1.4 (Syncrowax HGLC-PA) B Aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine 19.0 (Reach AZP-908) Hydrogenated polydecene (Silkflo 366 24.9 Polydecene) PPG-14 butyl ether 1.9 Dimethicone (viscosity: 10 cSt) 37.6 (Belsil DM 10) C Dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer 1.9 (Dow Corning 9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend) D Silica silylate 1.9 (Dow Corning VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles) E Calcium hydroxide 0.5 F Capsules of perfume of Example A 5.0 Free perfume A 0.2 Total 100.00

[0574] The capsules of perfume of Example A may be replaced with the capsules of Examples B to H described previously.

[0575] The composition obtained has a hardness of 21 kPa measured according to the protocol described previously.

[0576] The composition applied to the armpits leaves a deposit on the skin which gives off a perfume odor. The perfume is released in the course of the day when the capsules are in contact with perspiration.

[0577] The intensity of the perfume odor on the skin was evaluated at T0, T2h, T4h and T6h after application of the composition.

[0578] 0.2 g of the composition of Example 2 was applied homogeneously to the skin. After 1 minute, the intensity of the perfume odor was evaluated (APPLICATION), and was graded from 0 to 10. 2, 4 and 6 hours later, the intensity of the odor was re-evaluated (BEF) before adding about 0.1 g of water (three sprays) to the composition applied to the skin. After waiting for 30 seconds, the intensity of the odor was evaluated (AFT).

TABLE-US-00012 Odor Odor Odor Odor intensity T0 intensity T2 h intensity T4 h intensity T6 h Product APPLICATION BEF AFT BEF AFT BEF AFT Example 2 5.0 2.5 5.5 3 3.5 5.5 2.0 2.5 5.0 2.5 BEF = before addition of water; AFT = after addition of water = amplitude of difference in olfactory intensity (BEF AFT) Scale of perfume odor intensity: 0 to 10 (0 = odorless; 10 = very intense/saturated odor).

[0579] It was thus observed at T0 that the composition of Example 2 has a moderate odor which decreases greatly, being weak at 2 hours after application. It was also observed that the spraying of water onto the deposit at T2h, T4h and T6h leads to an increase in the odor intensity (especially of the fresh notes), which demonstrates substantial release of perfume.

Example 3: Deodorant and Antiperspirant Product

[0580] An antiperspirant anhydrous soft solid composition having the following composition was similarly prepared:

TABLE-US-00013 Phase Ingredients (% by weight) A Tribehenin 5.8 (Syncrowax HRC-PA) C18-36 Acid Triglycerides 1.5 (Syncrowax HGLC-PA) B Aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine 19.4 (Reach AZP-908) Hydrogenated polydecene (Silkflo 366 25.5 Polydecene) PPG-14 butyl ether 1.9 Dimethicone (viscosity: 10 cSt) 38.4 (Belsil DM 10) C Dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer 1.9 (Dow Corning 9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend) D Silica silylate 1.9 (Dow Corning VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles) E Calcium hydroxide 0.5 F Capsules of perfume of Example A 2.4 Free perfume A 0.8 Total 100.00

[0581] The capsules of perfume of Example A may be replaced with the capsules of Examples B to H described previously.

[0582] The composition obtained has a hardness of 16 kPa measured according to the protocol described previously.

[0583] The intensity of the perfume odor on the skin was evaluated at T0, T2h, T4h and T6h after application of the composition according to the protocol described in Example 2.

TABLE-US-00014 Odor Odor Odor Odor intensity T0 intensity T2 h intensity T4 h intensity T6 h Product APPLICATION BEF AFT BEF AFT BEF AFT Example 3 7.0 5.0 7.0 2 3.5 6.25 2.75 3.25 4.75 1.5

[0584] It was thus observed at T0 that the composition of Example 3 has a strong odor which decreases, being moderate at 2 hours after application. It was also observed at each check time (T2h, T4h and T6h) that the spraying of water onto the product leads to an increase in the odor intensity (especially of the fresh notes), which demonstrates substantial release of perfume.