PROCESS FOR BLEACHING KERATIN FIBERS USING AN OXIDIZING COMPOSITION AND UV-VISIBLE RADIATION

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for bleaching keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising a step of applying, to said fibers, an oxidizing composition comprising hydrogen peroxide and a non-peroxygenated ammonium salt with a molar mass of greater than 40 g/mol and a step of irradiating said fibers with UV-visible radiation having a wavelength ranging from 200 to 800 nm and a fluence ranging from 1 to 5000 J/cm2, after application of said oxidizing composition.

Claims

1-21. (canceled)

22. A process for bleaching keratin fibers, comprising: (i) first, applying to said fibers an oxidizing composition comprising: (a) at least one non-peroxygenated ammonium salt with a molar mass greater than 40 g/mol; (b) hydrogen peroxide; and (c) optionally at least one alkaline agent different from the at least one non-peroxygenated ammonium salt with a molar mass greater than 40 g/mol; the oxidizing composition having a pH greater than or equal to 7.5; and (ii) second, irradiating said fibers with UV-visible radiation having a wavelength ranging from 200 nm to 800 nm and a fluence ranging from 1 J/cm.sup.2 to 5000 J/cm.sup.2.

23. The process of claim 22, wherein the irradiation step is carried out by means of one or more light sources chosen from light-emitting diodes or organic light-emitting diodes.

24. The process of claim 22, wherein after the oxidizing composition is applied to the keratin fibers, the fibers are irradiated for a period of time ranging from 1 minute to 60 minutes.

25. The process of claim 22, wherein the UV-visible radiation has a wavelength ranging from 280 nm to 700 nm.

26. The process of claim 22, wherein the UV-visible radiation has a fluence ranging from 1 J/cm.sup.2 to 2000 J/cm.sup.2.

27. The process of claim 22, wherein the at least one non-peroxygenated ammonium salt (a) is chosen from organic ammonium salts.

28. The process of claim 22, wherein the at least one non-peroxygenated ammonium salt (a) is chosen from ammonium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbamate, ammonium chloride, ammonium sulfate, ammonium hydrogen sulfate, ammonium nitrate, ammonium phosphate, ammonium monohydrogen phosphate, ammonium dihydrogen phosphate, ammonium lactate, ammonium acetate, or mixtures thereof.

29. The process of claim 22, wherein the at least one non-peroxygenated ammonium salt (a) is chosen from mineral ammonium salts.

30. The process of claim 22, wherein the at least one non-peroxygenated ammonium salt (a) is chosen from acid non-peroxygenated mineral ammonium salts.

31. The process of claim 22, wherein the at least one non-peroxygenated ammonium salt (a) is chosen from alkaline non-peroxygenated mineral ammonium salts.

32. The process of claim 22, wherein the total amount of non-peroxygenated ammonium salts (a) in the oxidizing ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.

33. The process of claim 22, wherein the oxidizing composition comprises at least one alkaline agent (c) chosen from aqueous ammonia, organic amines, or mixtures thereof.

34. The process of claim 22, wherein the total amount of alkaline agents (c) in the oxidizing composition ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.

35. The process of claim 22, wherein the total amount of hydrogen peroxide (b) in the oxidizing composition ranges from 0.5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.

36. The process of claim 22, wherein the oxidizing composition comprises less than 5% by weight of persalts, relative to the total weight of the composition.

37. The process of claim 22, wherein the oxidizing composition further comprises one or more hair dyes.

38. The process of claim 22, wherein the oxidizing composition has a pH ranging from 7.5 to 12.

39. An oxidizing composition for bleaching keratin fibers, comprising: (a) at least one non-peroxygenated ammonium salt with a molar mass greater than 40 g/mol; (b) hydrogen peroxide; and (c) optionally at least one alkaline agent different from the at least one non-peroxygenated ammonium salt with a molar mass greater than 40 g/mol, wherein the oxidizing composition has a pH greater than or equal to 7.5.

40. A process for bleaching keratin fibers, comprising: mixing: a first composition (A) comprising at least one non-peroxygenated ammonium salt with a molar mass greater than 40 g/mol and optionally at least one alkaline agent different from the at least one non-peroxygenated ammonium salt with a molar mass greater than 40 g/mol, a second composition (B) comprising hydrogen peroxide, and optionally, a third composition comprising at least one alkaline agent different from the at least one non-peroxygenated ammonium salt with a molar mass greater than 40 g/mol; applying the mixture to the keratin fibers; and subsequently irradiating said keratin fibers with UV-visible radiation having a wavelength ranging from 200 nm to 800 nm and a fluence ranging from 1 J/cm.sup.2 to 5000 J/cm.sup.2.

41. The process of claim 40, wherein the first composition (A) is anhydrous, and the second composition (B) is aqueous.

Description

EXAMPLES

Example 1

[0126] A. Compositions Tested

[0127] The following compositions were prepared from the ingredients in the tables below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages of active material:

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 A1 A2 A3 A4 A5 A6 A7 A8 A9 Ammonium 10.8 — — 10.8 10.8 — 10.8 14.6 — chloride Ammonium —  9.76 — — — — — — — carbonate Ammonium — — 15.97 — — — — — — bicarbonate Ammonium — — — — — 15.6 — — — acetate Ammonium — — — — — — — 21.6 lactate Sodium 37   37   37   37   37   37   37   37   37   silicate Purified 15.2 15.2  15.2  — — 15.2 — 15.2 smectite Kaolin — — — — 15.2 — 15.2 — — Ammonium — — 15.2 — — — — sulfate Sodium — — — — — — 11.4 — metasilicate Mineral oil 3  3   3   3  3  3  3  3  3  Sodium 34   35.04 28.83 34   34    29.20 — 34   23.2 chloride Potassium — — — — — — 34   — — chloride

[0128] These compositions in powder form are mixed with the aqueous composition below, comprising hydrogen peroxide, in the ratio 1+3 (A+B).

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Composition B Hydrogen peroxide 9.0 Sclerotium gum 2.5 Tetrasodium etidronate 0.06 Tetrasodium pyrophosphate 0.04 Sodium salicylate 0.035 Phosphoric acid qs pH 2.2 Water qs 100

[0129] B. Light-Emitting Source

[0130] A blue LED bank constructed so as to be composed of several blue light-emitting diodes (LEDs), the wavelength of the blue light of which is centered on 405 nm, is used.

[0131] The instrument is composed of sufficient light-emitting diodes appropriately installed to illuminate a surface area of 18 cm.sup.2. The source delivers a total fluence between 1 and 5000 J/cm.sup.2. The irradiation is carried out on one part of a lock of hair, with periodic movement of the light source so as to give the same fluence over the entire lock of hair.

[0132] C. Procedure

[0133] The various mixtures obtained are applied to locks of hair having a TL4 tone level, in a proportion of 10 grams of mixture per 1 gram of lock of hair, and they are enclosed in a wrapper that is transparent to the irradiation wavelength.

[0134] Each lock of hair is irradiated at a fluence of 80 J/cm.sup.2 and at a wavelength of 405 nanometers for a duration of 160 seconds. The light source is moved periodically along the lock so as to never illuminate the entire lock in one go.

[0135] The lock is rinsed and then washed with shampoo.

[0136] D. Results

[0137] The intensity L* of the color of the locks is measured with a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM2600D colorimeter.

[0138] The variation in the color intensity ΔL of the locks before and after treatment with the process according to the invention is calculated according to the following equation: ΔL=L*−L.sub.0*, L* representing the values measured after treatment and L.sub.0* representing the values measured before treatment.

[0139] The larger the value of ΔL, the greater the difference in color of the lock before and after treatment, and in the present case, the more bleached the lock is.

[0140] The results are reported in table 1 below.

TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 A1 + B A2 + B A3 + B A4 + B A5 + B A6 + B A7 + B A8 + B A9 + B pH of the 9.2 9.8 9.3 9.1 9.5 9.8 9.5 9.7 9.6 mixture ΔL 25.9 18.15 17.45 22.45 25.72 25.27 26.48 30.53 22.03

[0141] It is observed that the process according to the invention enables effective bleaching of the locks of hair.

Example 2

[0142] A. Compositions Tested

[0143] The following oxidizing compositions are prepared, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages of active material.

TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 Oxidizing Oxidizing composition C composition C1 (invention) (comparative) Hydrogen peroxide 7.2 7.2 Ammonium chloride 1.07 — Sodium silicate 0.45 — Ammonium hydroxide — 0.7 Water qs 100 qs 100 pH 9.5 9.5

[0144] The source of ammonium is in an equimolar amount in the two compositions.

[0145] B. Light-Emitting Source

[0146] The same light-emitting source is used as in example 1.

[0147] C. Procedure

[0148] The compositions (C) and (C1) are applied respectively to locks of hair having a TL4 tone level, in a proportion of 10 grams per 1 gram of lock of hair, and they are enclosed in a wrapper that is transparent to the irradiation wavelength.

[0149] Each lock of hair is irradiated at a fluence of 80 J/cm.sup.2 and at a wavelength of 405 nanometers for a duration of 160 seconds. The light source is moved periodically along the lock so as to never illuminate the entire lock in one go.

[0150] The lock is rinsed and then washed with shampoo.

[0151] D. Results—Comparison of the Shades

[0152] The color of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L* a* b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM2600D colorimeter. In this L* a* b* system, the three parameters respectively denote the intensity of the color (L*), the green/red color axis (a*) and the blue/yellow color axis (b*).

[0153] In this table, the colorimetric parameters L*, a* and b* are given for a lock of untreated hair (TL4), a lock of hair (TL4) treated with the process according to the invention and a lock of hair (TL4) treated with the comparative process using composition (C1).

TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 5 L* a* b* TL4 chestnut brown lock (untreated) 21.2 3.11 4.26 TL4 chestnut brown lock treated with 33.22 8.1 15.11 composition C + 405 nm irradiation (invention) TL4 chestnut brown lock treated with 29.17 7.13 11.72 composition C1 + 405 nm irradiation (comparative)

[0154] It is observed that for the same amount of active agent used, better bleaching is obtained with the process according to the invention than with the comparative process.

Example 3

[0155] A. Compositions Tested:

[0156] Compositions (A8) and (B) from example 1 are used.

[0157] B. Light-Emitting Source

[0158] The same light-emitting source is used as in example 1.

[0159] C. Procedure

[0160] 1) Process 1

[0161] Compositions (A8) and (B) are mixed in a 1:3 ratio in order to obtain an oxidizing composition. The oxidizing composition is then applied to locks of chestnut brown hair (TL4) in a proportion of 10 grams of oxidizing composition per 1 gram of lock. The locks are then enclosed in wrappers that are transparent to the irradiation wavelength and are immediately irradiated for a period of 160 seconds at a fluence of 80 J/cm.sup.2. The locks of hair are then rinsed.

[0162] 2) Process 2 (Conventional Bleaching Process with Persalts)

[0163] The composition entitled “Infinie Platine Low odor” from L'Oréal Professionnel is mixed with a 30-volumes oxidizing agent (Développeur Oxydant Crème 30 volumes from L'Oréal Professionnel) in a 1:1.5 ratio. The composition obtained from the mixture is applied to locks of chestnut brown hair (TL4) in a proportion of 10 grams of composition per 1 gram of lock. The composition is left on the lock for a period of 40 minutes at 33° C. The locks of hair are then rinsed.

[0164] D. Results—Comparison of the Shades

[0165] The color of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L* a* b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM2600D colorimeter. In this L* a* b* system, the three parameters respectively denote the intensity of the color (L*), the green/red color axis (a*) and the blue/yellow color axis (b*).

[0166] In the table below, the colorimetric parameters L*, a* and b* are given for untreated locks of hair (TL4), locks of hair treated with the process according to the prior art (Process 2) and locks of hair treated with the process according to the invention (Process 1). Furthermore, the values Δa* and Δb* are respectively calculated between a*, once the locks have been bleached, and a.sub.0* for the untreated locks, and between b*, once the locks have been bleached, and b.sub.0* for the untreated locks.

TABLE-US-00006 TABLE 6 L* a* b* Δa* Δb* TL4 chestnut brown 21.2 3.11 4.26 — — lock (untreated) Process 1 (invention) 54.08 5.83 19.25 2.72 14.99 Process 2 (prior art) 53.5 9.5 30.06 6.39 25.8

[0167] It is observed that for the same degree of bleaching (L), the bleaching processes according to the invention (Process 1) results in lightening that adheres more to the natural tone level of the hair without producing a yellow/orangey lightening background than the process of the prior art.

[0168] The values of a* and b* obtained with the process according to the invention are in fact less removed from the initial values a.sub.0* and b.sub.0* for the TL4 untreated locks than the values of a* and b* obtained with the process according to the prior art. Consequently, the locks bleached with process 2 are more red (a*) and more yellow (b*) than those bleached with the process according to the invention.

Example 4

[0169] A. Compositions Tested

[0170] The following oxidizing compositions are prepared, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages of active material.

TABLE-US-00007 TABLE 7 Oxidizing Oxidizing composition D composition D1 (invention) (comparative) Hydrogen peroxide 7.2 7.2 Ammonium carbonate 1.12 — Ammonium hydroxide — 0.7 Phosphoric acid — qs pH 8.9 Water qs 100 qs 100 pH 8.9 8.9

[0171] The source of ammonium is in an equimolar amount in the two compositions.

[0172] B. Light-Emitting Source

[0173] The same light-emitting source is used as in example 1.

[0174] C. Procedure

[0175] The compositions (D) and (D1) are applied respectively to locks of hair having a TL4 tone level, in a proportion of 10 grams per 1 gram of lock of hair, and they are enclosed in a wrapper that is transparent to the irradiation wavelength.

[0176] Each lock of hair is irradiated at a fluence of 80 J/cm.sup.2 and at a wavelength of 405 nanometers for a duration of 160 seconds. The light source is moved periodically along the lock so as to never illuminate the entire lock in one go.

[0177] The lock is rinsed and then washed with shampoo.

[0178] D. Results—Comparison of the Shades

[0179] The color of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L* a* b* system, using a

[0180] Minolta Spectrophotometer CM2600D colorimeter. In this L* a* b* system, the three parameters respectively denote the intensity of the color (L*), the green/red color axis (a*) and the blue/yellow color axis (b*).

[0181] In this table, the colorimetric parameters L*, a* and b* are given for a lock of untreated hair (TL4), a lock of hair (TL4) treated with the process according to the invention using composition (D) and a lock of hair (TL4) treated with the comparative process using composition (D1).

TABLE-US-00008 TABLE 8 L* a* b* TL4 chestnut brown lock (untreated) 23.52 3.34 5.22 TL4 chestnut brown lock treated with 38.09 8.13 16.86 composition D + 405 nm irradiation (invention) TL4 chestnut brown lock treated with 33.56 8.45 15.90 composition D1 + 405 nm irradiation (comparative)

[0182] It is observed that for the same amount of active agent used, better bleaching is obtained with the process according to the invention than with the comparative process.