Process for permanent shaping of human hair

Abstract

The present invention concerns a process for permanent shaping of human hair used both for the permanent waving of human hair with an excellent waving effect as well as for the straightening of curled hair. Accordingly, the first object of the present invention is a process for permanent shaping hair wherein an aqueous composition comprising at least one inorganic salt is applied onto hair and optionally processed up to 20 min and optionally rinsed off and subsequently a composition comprising at least one reducing agent is applied and rinsed off from hair after a processing time of 1 to 30 min and at a temperature of 20 to 45 C. and a composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent is applied and processed for 1 to 20 min at a temperature range of 20 to 45 C. and rinsed off from hair.

Claims

1. A process for permanent shaping of hair, comprising the steps of, in order: (a) washing and/or shampooing the hair, (b) applying to the hair a first composition, which is an aqueous composition comprising at least one inorganic salt, (c) applying to the hair a second composition, which is a composition comprising at least one reducing agent, (d) allowing the first composition and second composition to remain on the hair for a processing time of 1 to 30 minutes at a temperature of 20 to 45 C., (e) rinsing the first composition and second composition from the hair, (f) applying a third composition, which is a composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, (g) allowing the third composition to remain on the hair for a processing time of 1 to 30 minutes at a temperature of 20 to 45 C., and (h) rinsing the third composition from the hair, wherein the at least one inorganic salt is selected from the group consisting of sodium chloride, sodium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, potassium chloride, potassium sulfate, magnesium chloride, calcium chloride, an ammonium salts, a salt of iodide ions, copper chloride, cupper sulphate, cobalt chloride, cerium sulphate, cerium chloride, vanadium sulphate, lithium chloride, potassium dichromate, magnesium acetate, calcium nitrate, barium nitrate, magnesium oxide, and ammonium nitrate, and wherein the hair is put on curlers prior to step (c).

2. The process according to claim 1, wherein the curlers are removed from the hair after step (f) or at the end of step (g).

3. The process according to claim 1, wherein the first composition comprises at least one inorganic salt at a concentration of 0.01 to 20% by weight calculated to the total of the composition.

4. The process according to claim 1, further comprising the step of, between steps (e) and (f), applying to the hair a fourth composition which is an aqueous intermediate composition comprising at least one inorganic salt.

5. The process according to claim 1, wherein the at least one inorganic salt is selected from the group consisting of magnesium sulfate, sodium chloride and potassium iodide.

6. The process according to claim 1, wherein the first composition comprises at least one thickening agent.

7. The process according to claim 1, wherein the first composition comprises at least one surfactant.

8. The process according to claim 1, wherein the first composition comprises at least one conditioning agent.

9. The process according to claim 1, wherein the first composition comprises at least one organic solvent.

10. The process according to claim 1, wherein the second composition comprises at least one reducing agent at a concentration of 0.5 to 15% by weight calculated to total of the composition.

11. The process according to claim 1, wherein any one of the first, second and third compositions comprises one or more of the compounds selected from the group consisting of: a. ubichinones of the formula ##STR00011## where n is a number between 1 and 10, b. amino acid at a concentration of 0.01 to 10%, c. ceramide compound with the general formula ##STR00012## where R7 and R.sub.8 are independent from each other alkyl- or alkenyl group with 10 to 22 carbon atoms, R.sub.9 is alkyl or hydroxyl alkyl with 1 to 4 carbon atoms group and n is a number between 1 to 6, d. a sterol, e. fatty acid, f. diamide compounds are according to the general structure ##STR00013## wherein R.sub.9 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain with 1 to 12 C atoms, R.sub.10 is linear or branched alkyl chain with 1 to 5 C atoms, and R11 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain with 1 to 22 C atom, g. silicone compound, and h. natural oil.

12. The process of claim 1, wherein the first composition comprising at least one inorganic salt was applied onto hair in the first step and processed up to 20 minutes.

13. The process of claim 1, wherein the first composition comprising at least one inorganic salt was applied onto hair in the first step and rinsed off.

14. The process of claim 12, wherein the aqueous composition comprising at least one inorganic salt was applied onto hair in the first step and rinsed off.

15. The process according to claim 11, wherein the sterol is phytosterol.

Description

EXAMPLE 1

(1) First Aqueous Composition

(2) TABLE-US-00001 % by weight Potassium iodide 0.5 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.5 Monoethanolamine 4.8 Hydrochloric acid 4.0 Water q.s. to 100

(3) Alkaline Permanent Wave for Normal Hair

(4) TABLE-US-00002 % by weight Ammonium thioglycolate (60%) 21.3 Ammonium hydrogen carbonate 5.0 1,3-butylene gylcol 3.0 Amodimethicone 0.2 PEG-40-Hydrogenated castor oil 0.7 Polyquaternium-7 0.5 Perfume 0.4 Ammonia, 25% ad pH 8.3 Water ad 100.0

(5) Oxidizing Composition

(6) TABLE-US-00003 % by weight Hydrogen peroxide 2 Phosphoric acid q.s. to pH 3.5 Water to 100

(7) With these compositions the hair was permanently waved according to the process of Claim 1. Therefore, hair was shampooed and towel dried and the first aqueous composition was applied onto hair and processed for 10 min at ambient temperature and without rinsing off the composition, hair was put on curlers and reducing composition given above was applied onto hair and processed for about 15 minutes, rinsed off from hair and oxidizing composition was applied and processed for about 10 minutes and rinsed off from hair and curlers were taken off from hair. Homogeneous wave appearance and natural feeling hair was obtained. Exclusion of the first step resulted in less homogeneous perm appearance and especially natural hair feeling was lost.

EXAMPLE 2

(8) Intermediate Composition

(9) TABLE-US-00004 % by weight Coenzyme Q10 0.2 Polysorbate-80 0.2 Magnesium sulfate 10 Hydrogen peroxide 2.5 Cetrimonium chloride 0.5 Citric acid q.s. to pH 4.2 Water q.s. to 100

(10) The three compositions used in Example 1 were used in this example. The permanent shaping was carried out as follows:

(11) Hair was shampooed and towel dried and the first aqueous composition was applied onto hair and processed for 5 min at ambient temperature and without rinsing off, hair was put on curlers and reducing composition given above was applied onto hair and processed for about 15 minutes, rinsed off from hair and the intermediate composition of above was applied onto hair and after processing of 10 min and without rinsing off oxidizing composition was applied and immediately afterwards the curlers were taken off from hair and oxidizing composition was processed further for about 10 minutes and rinsed off from hair. Homogeneous wave appearance and natural feeling hair was obtained. Exclusion of the first step resulted in less homogeneous perm appearance and especially natural hair feeling was lost. It was furthermore observed that hair appear and feel less damaged.

EXAMPLE 3

(12) The 3 compositions of Example 1 were used in this example. The permanent shaping was carried out as described in example wherein additionally after rinsing off the reducing agent and before application of the oxidizing agent the first aqueous composition was applied as an intermediate treatment and processed for 5 min and without rinsing off oxidizing composition was applied. The rest of the process was exactly the same as in Example 1. It was observed that pretreatment and intermediate treatment was affected the perming efficiency positively. Perming either without both first step and intermediate treatment or only with intermediate treatment were resulted in much weaker and less preferred results.

EXAMPLE 4

(13) First Aqueous Composition

(14) TABLE-US-00005 % by weight Coenzyme Q10 0.2 Polysorbate-80 0.2 Magnesium sulfate 5 Di amide compound* 0.2 Cetrimonium chloride 1.0 Arginine 0.5 Citric acid q.s. to pH 4.2 Water q.s. to 100 *Bis (methoxypropylamido) isodocosane which corresponds to compound F among the structures disclosed above.

(15) Alkaline Permanent Wave for Damaged Hair

(16) TABLE-US-00006 % by weight Ammonium thioglycolate (60%) 0.9 Cystein hydrochloride 5.7 Ammonium hydrogen carbonate 1.5 Acetylcystein 0.7 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 1,3-butylene gylcol 0.5 Polyquaternium-39 1.5 Amodimethicone 0.2 Oleic acid 0.05 Perfume 0.4 Ammonia, 25% ad pH 9.8 Water q.s. 100.0

(17) Intermediate Composition

(18) TABLE-US-00007 % by weight Coenzyme Q10 0.2 Polysorbate-80 0.2 Magnesium sulfate 10 Hydrogen peroxide 2.5 Di amide compound* 0.2 Cetrimonium chloride 1.0 Arginine 0.5 Citric acid q.s. to pH 4.2 Water q.s. to 100 *Bis (methoxypropylamido) isodocosane which corresponds to compound F among the structures disclosed above.

(19) The permanent wave achieved with the above compositions was similar to the one obtained with the composition according to Example 3. Exclusion of first aqueous composition and/or intermediate treatment led to substantially weaker waves.

EXAMPLE 5

(20) First Aqueous Composition

(21) TABLE-US-00008 % by weight Coenzyme Q10 0.1 Polysorbate-80 0.2 Sodium chloride 10 Hydrogen peroxide 2.5 Behentrimonium chloride 0.8 Arginine 0.5 Citric acid q.s. to pH 4.2 Water q.s. to 100

(22) Neutral Permanent Wave for Normal Hair

(23) A permanent waving product consisting of two Compositions A and B, filled into a two-chamber packaging the chambers of which were kept separate until application, was prepared by destruction of the separating wall prior to application onto hair.

(24) Composition A:

(25) TABLE-US-00009 Ammonium hydrogen carbonate 4.5 (g) Polyquaternium-6 1.0 PEG-65-Hydrogenated castor oil 0.8 Isopropyl alcohol 1.5 Ethoxydiglycol 2.0 Cocoamidopropyl betaine 1.0 Coenzyme Q10 0.2 Perfume 0.3 Turbidifying agent 0.5 Ammonia, 25% ad pH 8.4 Water q.s. 72.0

(26) Composition B:

(27) TABLE-US-00010 Ammonium thioglycolate, 70% 18.0 (g) Thiolactic acid 2.0 2-Methyl-1.3-propanediol 0.5 Ammonia, 25% ad pH 5.5 Water q.s. 28.0

(28) After admixture of both Compositions a ready-to-use product with a pH-value of 7.4 was obtained.

(29) Intermediate Composition

(30) TABLE-US-00011 % by weight Coenzyme Q10 0.1 Polysorbate-80 0.2 Sodium chloride 10 Hydrogen peroxide 2.5 Behentrimonium chloride 0.8 Arginine 0.5 Citric acid q.s. to pH 4.2 Water q.s. to 100

(31) With these compositions the hair was permanently waved according to the process of Example 3. Therefore, hair was shampooed and towel dried and first aqueous composition was applied and processed for 5 min and hair was put on curlers and reducing composition given above after mixing the two parts, was applied onto hair and processed for about 20 minutes, rinsed off from hair and intermediate composition of above was applied onto hair and processed for 5 min and without rinsing off oxidizing composition comprising 2.5% by weight hydrogen peroxide and 0.2% Coenzyme Q10 was applied and processed for about 8 minutes and rinsed off from hair. Homogeneous wave appearance and natural feeling hair was obtained. Exclusion of first aqueous composition and intermediate treatment resulted in less homogeneous perm appearance.

EXAMPLE 6

(32) First Aqueous Composition

(33) TABLE-US-00012 % by weight Coenzyme Q10 0.1 PEG-60 Hydrogenated castor oil 0.2 Sodium chloride 10 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.2 Cetrimonium chloride 0.5 Arginine 0.5 Citric acid/sodium hydroxide q.s. to pH 6.5 Water q.s. to 100

(34) Neutral Permanent Wave for Dyed Hair

(35) A permanent waving product filled into a two-chamber package was prepared in analogy to Example 4:

(36) Composition A:

(37) TABLE-US-00013 Ammonium hydrogen carbonate 3.5 (g) Polyquaternium-11 0.5 Ethanol 0.5 1-Methoxypropanol 1.0 Cocoamidopropyl betaine 1.0 PEG-25-glyceryl cocoate 0.8 Coenzyme Q10 0.1 Oleic acid 0.05 Perfume 0.3 Turbidifying agent 0.5 Ammonia, 25% ad pH 8.3 Water q.s. 72.0

(38) Composition B:

(39) TABLE-US-00014 Ammonium thioglycolate, 70% 13.0 (g) Thiolactic acid 0.5 2-Methyl-1.3-propanediol 1.5 Ammonia, 25% ad pH 5.5 Water q.s. 28.0

(40) A product with a pH-value of 7.4 was obtained by admixture of the Compositions immediately prior to application.

(41) Intermediate Composition

(42) TABLE-US-00015 % by weight Coenzyme Q10 0.1 PEG-60 Hydrogenated castor oil 0.2 Sodium chloride 10 Hydrogen peroxide 2.5 Cetrimonium chloride 0.5 Arginine 0.5 Citric acid q.s. to pH 4.2 Water q.s. to 100

(43) After application onto dyed hair as described in Example 5, this compositions resulted in an expressive permanent wave, which had not effect whatever on the color gloss and color intensity. Exclusion of first aqueous composition and intermediate treatment resulted in loss of effects.

EXAMPLE 7

(44) First Aqueous Composition

(45) TABLE-US-00016 Asparagic acid 0.25 % by weight Glutamic acid 0.50 Alanin DL 0.25 Behentrimonium chloride 1.00 Guar gum 0.25 Potassium iodide 5.00 Polysorbate-80 0.10 Coenzyme Q10 0.05 Citric acid/sodium hydroxide q.s to pH 6.8 Water q.s. to 100

(46) The above composition had a pH of 4.10.

(47) Alkaline Permanent Waving Gel

(48) TABLE-US-00017 Ammonium thioglycolate, 70% 15.0 (g) Ammonium hydrogen carbonate 4.5 PEG-40-Hydrogenated castor oil 0.7 C.sub.12-C.sub.18-Fatty alcohol mixture 3.5 Cetrimonium chloride 2.0 Amodimethicone 0.05 2-Methyl-1.3-propanediol 0.5 Polyquaternium-28 0.1 Perfume 0.3 Ammonia, 25% ad pH 8.0 Water q.s. 100.0

(49) Intermediate Treatment Composition

(50) TABLE-US-00018 Asparagic acid 0.25 % by weight Glutamic acid 0.50 Alanin DL 0.25 Behentrimonium chloride 1.00 Hydrogen peroxide 1.50 Magnesium sulfate 10.00 Polysorbate-80 0.10 Coenzyme Q10 0.05 Water q.s. to 100

(51) The above composition had a pH of 4.10.

(52) The above compositions was applied in the same way as in Example 3 and resulted in expressive waves and natural hair feel.

EXAMPLE 7

(53) Straightening Composition

(54) TABLE-US-00019 Thioglycolic acid 8.0 (% by wt.) C.sub.16-C.sub.22-Fatty alcohol mixture 3.5 Oleth-50 2.5 Laureth-23 1.5 Polyquaternium-2 0.8 Oleic acid 0.1 Ethanol 5.0 Perfume 0.6 Monoethanolamine ad pH 9.3 Water q.s. 100.0

(55) Intermediate Composition

(56) TABLE-US-00020 % by weight Coenzyme Q10 0.1 Poysorbate-80 0.1 Sodium chloride 10 Hydrogen peroxide 2.5 Cetrimonium chloride 0.8 Arginine 0.5 Citric acid q.s. to pH 4.2 Water q.s. to 100

(57) Kinky hair was straightened according to process wherein hair was shampooed and first aqueous composition of example 1 was applied onto hair and after processing of 10 min at ambient temperature, the above reducing composition was applied onto hair and processed from 20 min at ambient temperature and rinsed off from hair and hair was towel dried and treated with the above intermediate composition and without rinsing off hair was dried. Subsequently hair was straightened with a hot iron having flat shape and a temperature of approximately 140 C. and afterwards treated with an oxidizing composition comprising 2% by weight of hydrogen peroxide at pH 3. Finally hair was rinsed off and dried with a drier. Hair was excellently straightened and felt natural and soft upon touching. Exclusion of first aqueous composition and intermediate treatment resulted in loss of effects.