Composition comprising at least two fatty acid esters of (poly)glycerol, and use thereof in cosmetics

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition in the form of a nanoemulsion or microemulsion, comprising: —a first fatty acid ester of polyglycerol which is chosen from a fatty acid ester of polyglycerol formed from at least one acid comprising an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing from 12 to 20 carbon atoms and from 3 to 6 glycerol units; —a second fatty acid ester of (poly)glycerol (c) which is chosen from a fatty acid ester of (poly)glycerol formed from at least one acid comprising an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and from 1 to 3 glycerol units; —at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer; —at least two acrylic acid-based polymers that are different from one another; —at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) unit; —at least one oil; —water. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratin materials such as the skin, by application of such a composition.

Claims

1. A composition in the form of a nanoemulsion or microemulsion, comprising: a first fatty acid ester of polyglycerol (a) which is chosen from a fatty acid ester of polyglycerol formed from at least one acid comprising an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing from 12 to 20 carbon atoms and from 3 to 6 glycerol units; a second fatty acid ester of (poly)glycerol (b) which is chosen from a fatty acid ester of (poly)glycerol formed from at least one acid comprising an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and from 1 to 3 glycerol units; wherein the total amount of fatty acid ester(s) of polyglycerol (a)] and fatty acid ester(s) of (poly)glycerol (b) is 0.5% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer; from 0.2% to 5% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition of at least two acrylic acid-based polymers that are different from one another; from 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) unit; from 1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one oil; and 30% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of water.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the first fatty acid ester of polyglycerol (a) is chosen from polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising from 4 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monooleate comprising from 4 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono(iso)stearate comprising from 4 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising from 4 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl dioleate comprising from 4 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monomyristate comprising from 4 to 6 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof.

3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the second fatty acid ester of (poly)glycerol (b) is chosen from (poly)glyceryl monolaurate comprising from 1 to 3 glycerol units, (poly)glyceryl monocaprate comprising from 1 to 3 glycerol units, (poly)glyceryl monocaprylate comprising from 1 to 3 glycerol units, (poly)glyceryl monostearate comprising from 1 to 3 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof.

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the first fatty acid ester of polyglycerol (a) has an HLB value of 10 to 13, and/or in that the second fatty acid ester of (poly)glycerol (b) has an HLB value of 8 to 10.

5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the first fatty acid ester of polyglycerol (a) is a polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 4 to 6 glycerol units, and the second fatty acid ester of (poly)glycerol (b) is chosen from (poly)glyceryl monolaurate comprising from 1 to 3 glycerol units and (poly)glyceryl monocaprate comprising from 1 to 3 glycerol units.

6. The composition according to claim 1, which also comprises at least one anionic surfactant of formula (II): ##STR00006## in which: R.sub.1 is a, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl chain containing from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, R.sub.2 is H or a methyl, R.sub.3 is H, COO.sup.−M.sup.+, CH.sub.2COO.sup.−M.sup.+or COOH, n is from 0 to 2, X is COO.sup.− or SO.sub.3.sup.− and M independently represents H, sodium, potassium or sorbitan.

7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the total amount of fatty acid ester(s) of polyglycerol (a) to the total amount of fatty acid ester(s) of (poly)glycerol (b) weight ratio ranges from 0.2 to 10.

8. The composition according to claim 1, which also comprises at least one polyol (c) at a total content of greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to claim 8, wherein said polyol(s) is (are) present in a content ranging from 15% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein said oil(s) is (are) chosen from the group constituted of oils of plant origin, mineral oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon-based oils.

11. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises one or more silicone oils chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes containing oxyethylene groups, cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes.

12. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the total amount of fatty acid esters of polyglycerol (a) and (b)/total amount of oil(s) weight ratio ranges from 0.2 to 10.

13. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer which is chosen from a gel of silicone elastomer dispersed in a silicone oil.

14. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the acrylic acid-based polymers are at least two crosslinked copolymers of C1-C30 alkyl acrylate and of (meth)acrylic acid, and a crosslinked copolymer of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and of (meth)acrylic acid.

15. The composition according to claim 1, wherein said amphiphilic polymer(s) comprising at least one 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid unit is (are) the copolymer of AMPS and of ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate.

16. The composition according to claim 1, which is a cosmetic and/or in the form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, and the oil(s) is (are) in the form of droplets with a number-average particle size of 300 nm or less.

17. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the total amount of organopolysiloxane elastomer(s)/the total amount of acrylic acid-based polymers and of amphiphilic polymer(s) weight ratio ranges from 0.01 to 20.

18. The composition according to claim 1, which is a cosmetic in the form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, and the oil(s) is (are) in the form of droplets with a number-average particle size of 300 nm or less; wherein the first fatty acid ester of polyglycerol (a) is a polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 4 to 6 glycerol units, and the second fatty acid ester of (poly)glycerol (b) is chosen from (poly)glyceryl monolaurate comprising from 1 to 3 glycerol units and (poly)glycerol monocaprate comprising from 1 to 3 glycerol units; the total amount of fatty acid ester(s) of polyglycerol (a) to the total amount of fatty acid ester(s) of (poly)glycerol (b) weight ratio ranges from 0.2 to 10; which comprises one or more silicone oils chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes containing oxyethylene groups, cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) and polydialkylsiloxanes; at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer which is chosen from a gel of silicone elastomer dispersed in a silicone oil; wherein the acrylic acid-based polymers are at least two crosslinked copolymers of C1-C30 alkyl acrylate and of (meth)acrylic acid; wherein said amphiphilic polymer(s) comprising at least one 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid unit is (are) the copolymer of AMPS and of ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate.

19. A cosmetic process for treating keratin materials, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition according to claim 1.

Description

EXAMPLE 1: COSMETIC COMPOSITION ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION

(1) A facial care lotion having the following composition was prepared:

(2) TABLE-US-00001 Composition according Ingredients to the invention PHASES CAPRYLOYL SALICYLIC ACID 0.3 A TRIETHANOLAMINE 0.24 C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane 9 (MEXORYL SBB ® from Chimex) SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.52 (RENOVHYAL LO ® from Soliance) SILICA MICROSPHERES 4 (SUNSPHERE H 51 ® from-AGC SI- TECH) PHENOXYETHANOL 0.5 ISOSTEARYL NEOPENTANOATE 4 (CERAPHYL 375 ® from-ISP) WATER 31.78 GLYCEROL 7 OCTANE-1,2-DIOL (MINACARE 0.5 OCTIOL ® from MINASOLVE) Polyglyceryl-2 laurate or PG-2 laurate 2 (SUNSOFT Q-12D-C ® from Taiyo Kagaku) Sodium N-methylstearoyltaurate or 0.2 SODIUM METHYL STEAROYL TAURATE (Nikkol SMT ® from Nikko) Polyglyceryl-5 laurate or PG-5 laurate 4 (SUNSOFT A-121E ® from Taiyo Kagaku) BIS-PEG-18 METHYL ETHER 1 DIMETHYL SILANE (DOW CORNING 2501 COSMETIC WAX ® by the company Dow Corning) BUTYLENE GLYCOL 17 Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/ 0.6 B Steareth-25 Methacrylate Cross- polymer) sold under the name Aristoflex HMS ® by the company Clariant. crosslinked copolymer of C.sub.10-C.sub.30 alkyl 0.2 C acrylate and of (meth)acrylic acid (TEGO CARBOMER 841 SER from EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT comprising 100% of active material) Crosslinked methacrylic acid/ethyl 0.95 D acrylate copolymer (CARBOPOL AQUA SF-1 POLYMER ® from Lubrizol comprising 30% of copolymer and 70% of water) SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.02 ALCOHOL 5 E Polysilicone-11 and Cyclohexasiloxane 10 (Gransil RPS-D6 ® from the company Grant Industries comprising 87% of Cyclohexasiloxane and 13% of Polysilicone- 11) DIMETHICONE and DIMETHICONOL 1 (Xiameter PMX-1503 FLUID ® by the company Dow Corning) Fragrance 0.2
Preparation Method:
Preparation Method Phase A is heated to 60° C. with stirring. At 60° C., phase B is added with stirring, followed by phase C at around 40° C. and finally phase D around 30° C. At ambient temperature, predispersed phase E is added.

(3) The stability was evaluated by observing the various compositions.

(4) It was in particular considered that the composition was:

(5) Stable: at 24 h, when a homogeneous product was observed.

(6) Unstable: at 24 h, when 2 phases were observed, often a clear pellet and a considerable white supernatant.

(7) The composition of Example 1, in accordance with the invention, is single-phase and clear, and remains stable and homogeneous at 24 H and after storage for 3 months at 40° C.

EXAMPLE 2: EVALUATION OF THE COSMETIC PROPERTIES SUCH AS THE SENSORALITY OF A COMPOSITION, SUCH AS THE TACKINESS AND/OR THE SLIP DURING APPLICATION

(8) The sensory aspect, such as the tackiness, during application of the compositions, such as the composition according to Example 1, to the skin was evaluated by a panel of about twenty trained experts (according to a procedure comprising standardized body movement for the application).

(9) The evaluation criteria are standardized and graded on a scale of 1 to 15 (from having no tackiness and/or slip to having high tackiness and/or slip).

(10) An amount of 0.05 ml of composition is deposited on one cheek in 10 rounds of application. The hands are washed with water and soap then dried before evaluating various parameters, including the tackiness and the slip evaluated 2 minutes after application.

(11) The tackiness effect of the composition is evaluated tactilely. This criterion is evaluated by placing the back of the hand against the face and then removing it from the face. The slip is the sensation of non-rubbing to the touch, evaluated by slight movement of the back of the fingers on the area of the face where the product was applied.

(12) TABLE-US-00002 Composition of Example 1 Evaluation of the slip and of the in accordance tackiness after application with the invention Tackiness - 2 minutes after application 5** Slip - 2 minutes after application 7** **Significant difference at 5%

(13) It was observed that, surprisingly, the composition of Example 1 according to the invention exhibits, after application to the skin, good sensory properties, in particular it is not very tacky and has a correct slip.