Lip composition in the form of a liquid inverse emulsion

11471383 · 2022-10-18

Assignee

Inventors

Cpc classification

International classification

Abstract

This invention relates to a composition, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, containing: —at least 6% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, of at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil H1 chosen from plant oils or non-volatile triglycerides with a molecular weight greater than 400 Da, non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils with a molecular weight greater than 350 Da, non-volatile ester oils with a molecular weight greater than 350 Da, and mixtures thereof; —optionally less than 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of said composition of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) H2 chosen from C.sub.10-C.sub.26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols; non-volatile triglycerides with a molecular weight less than or equal to 400 Da; non-volatile ester in oils with a molecular weight less than or equal to 350 Da; non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils with a molecular weight less than or equal to 350 Da; dialkyl carbonates; and mixtures thereof; —at least 15% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of said composition; —at least one nonionic hydrocarbon-based or silicone surfactant; and —at least one polar hydrocarbon-based wax chosen from beeswaxes; synthetic beeswaxes; (poly)oxyalkylenated hydrocarbon waxes, the oxyalkykenated residue(s) being C.sub.2-C.sub.4 or (poly)glycerolated; alcohol waxes, and mixtures thereof.

Claims

1. A composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, containing: from 6% to 40% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, of at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil H1 chosen from plant oils with a molecular weight greater than 400 Da and non-volatile triglycerides with a molecular weight greater than 400 Da, non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils with a molecular weight greater than 350 Da, non-volatile ester oils with a molecular weight greater than 350 Da, and mixtures thereof; optionally less than 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of said composition of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) H2 chosen from non-volatile triglycerides with a molecular weight less than or equal to 400 Da; non-volatile ester oils with a molecular weight less than or equal to 350 Da; non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils with a molecular weight less than or equal to 350 Da; dialkyl carbonates; and mixtures thereof; less than 1% of C.sub.10-C.sub.26 alcohols; if the composition contains any of the C.sub.10-C.sub.26 alcohols; from 15% to 70% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of said composition; ethylcellulose; at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, a volatile silicon oil or mixtures thereof, with a content between 1% and 8%, by weight, in relation to the weight of the composition; at least one nonionic hydrocarbon-based or silicone surfactant; and from 0.5% to 15% by weight of at least one polar hydrocarbon-based wax chosen from beeswaxes; synthetic beeswaxes; (poly)oxyalkylenated hydrocarbon waxes, the oxyalkykenated pattern(s) being C2-C4 and (poly)glycerolated; alcohol waxes, and mixtures thereof, in relation to the weight of the composition.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polar hydrocarbon-based wax content ranges from 0.5% to 15% 2% to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.

3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polar hydrocarbon-based wax is chosen from beeswax, synthetic beeswaxes, (poly)oxyalkylenated and (poly)glycerolated hydrocarbon waxes and mixtures thereof; waxes corresponding to partial or total esters of a saturated C16-C30 carboxylic acid, optionally hydroxylated, with glycerol; and mixtures thereof.

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) H1 content ranges from 8% to 30% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.

5. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises, as non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) H1, at least one hydrocarbon-based plant oil and optionally at least one non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from linear and branched hydrocarbons.

6. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises one or several non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) H2 chosen from C10-C26 monoalcohols, non-volatile triglycerides with a molecular weight less than or equal to 400 Da; non-volatile ester oils with a molecular weight less than or equal to 350 Da; non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils with a molecular weight less than or equal to 350 Da, and mixtures thereof.

7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) H2 content is less than 3% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.

8. The composition according to claim 1, comprising from 20% to 60% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one non-volatile silicone oil, chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes and non-volatile phenylated silicone oils that do not have any dimethicone fragment, and mixtures thereof.

10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content in the at least one non-volatile silicone oil is between 2% and 10% by weight with respect to the weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to claim 1 further comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, a volatile silicone oil or mixtures thereof.

12. The composition according to claim 1 further comprising at least one pasty fat.

13. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises at least one additional wax.

14. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of the at least one additional wax is such that the at least one polar hydrocarbon-based wax/at least one additional wax weight ratio is greater than 1.

15. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of the at least one additional wax is less than or equal to 5% by weight by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.

16. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising alkylcellulose, of which the alkyl portion is C2-C6.

17. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising a humectant or moisturizing agent.

18. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one non-ionic hydrocarbon-based or silicone surfactant, with an HLB less than or equal to 8.

19. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one non-ionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant.

20. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one surfactant content ranges from 2% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of said composition.

21. A method for treating lips, comprising a step for applying on lips a composition according to claim 1.

Description

EXAMPLES

Example 1

(1) The composition is prepared of which the ingredients are listed in the table hereinbelow (the percentages are expressed by weight of raw material unless mentioned otherwise).

(2) TABLE-US-00001 Content Ingredients (INCI name) (% weight) Oily DIMETHICONE (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 7 phase DIMETHICONE X-22-6711D from Shin Etsu Phenyl trimethicone (Dow Corning 556 10 cosmetic Grad Fluid, Dow Corning) Prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil 7 (Refined Apricot Kernel oil, Olvea) petrolatum (ULTIMA WHITE PET USP; 5 calumet Specialty) Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 3 (Polysynlane V, NOF corporation) Tocopheryl acetate 0.5 Disteardimonium hectorite 0.5 (Bentone VCG, Elementis) propylene carbonate 0.07 POLYGLYCERYL-3 BEESWAX 7 (CERA BELLINA E00022; Koster Keunen) Aqueous glycerin 6 phase propylene glycol 2 water qs 100% preservative 0.5

(3) Procedure:

(4) The disteardimonium hectorite is mixed in the apricot oil and the propylene carbonate in the Rayneri deffloculator.

(5) The oily phase is prepared by mixing all of the ingredients in a double-shell skillet and once the mixture is homogenized, the previously-obtained bentone gel is added therein.

(6) This is homogenized and the wax is added at 80° C. and the whole is homogenized in the Rayneri deffloculator.

(7) Separately, the aqueous phase is prepared by mixing the ingredients under stirring in the Rayneri deffloculator and the temperature is stabilized to 60° C.

(8) The emulsion is then prepared by slowly pouring the aqueous phase obtained as such, over the preceding fatty phase (stirring in the Morritz; 3,000 to 4,000 rpm).

(9) The mixture obtained is cooled to ambient temperature under stirring (butterfly blades).

(10) The composition is cooled to ambient temperature and conditioned in a suitable container.

(11) Results:

(12) A homogeneous and stable composition is obtained.

(13) The composition is easy to apply, in a homogeneous deposit that does not flow and that does not chase.

(14) The deposit is fresh, thin, is not tacky and procures a persistent moisturizing effect.

Example 2

(15) The composition is prepared of which the ingredients are listed in the table hereinbelow (the percentages are expressed by weight of raw material unless mentioned otherwise).

(16) TABLE-US-00002 Content Ingredients (INCI name) (% weight) Oily DIMETHICONE (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 7 phase DIMETHICONE X-22-6711D from Shin Etsu Phenyl trimethicone (Dow Corning 556 6 cosmetic Grad Fluid, Dow Corning) Prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil 7 (Refined Apricot Kernel oil, Olvea) petrolatum (ULTIMA WHITE PET USP; 4 calumet Specialty) BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 5 (Softisan 649, Cremer Oleo) Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 5 (Polysynlane V, NOF corporation) tocopheryl acetate 0.5 Disteardimonium hectorite 0.5 (Bentone VCG, Elementis) propylene carbonate 0.07 POLYGLYCERYL-3 BEESWAX 3 (CERA BELLINA E00022; Koster Keunen) Aqueous glycerin 8 phase water qs 100% ETHYLCELLULOSE Aquacoat ECD 30; 7 FMC Corporation; 30% dispersion in water, cetyl alcohol, sodium lauryl sulfate) preservative 0.5

(17) Procedure:

(18) The disteardimonium hectorite is mixed in the apricot oil and the propylene carbonate in the Rayneri deffloculator.

(19) The remaining ingredients of the oily phase is then added to the previous mixture, under mixing, in a double-shell skillet at 80° C.

(20) The whole is homogenized in the Rayneri deffloculator.

(21) Separately, the aqueous phase is prepared by mixing the ingredients (except for the Aquacoat ECD) under stirring in the Rayneri deffloculator and the temperature is stabilized to 60° C.

(22) The emulsion is then prepared by slowly pouring the aqueous phase obtained as such, over the preceding fatty phase (stirring in the Morritz; 3,000 to 4,000 rpm).

(23) The mixture obtained is cooled to ambient temperature under stirring (butterfly blades).

(24) Finally at 50° C., the Aquacoat ECD is added under stirring.

(25) The composition is cooled to ambient temperature and conditioned in an adapted container.

(26) Results:

(27) A homogeneous and stable composition is obtained.

(28) The composition is easy to apply, in a homogeneous deposit that does not flow and that does not chase.

(29) The deposit is fresh, thin, is not tacky and procures a persistent moisturizing effect.

Example 3

(30) The composition is prepared of which the ingredients are listed in the table hereinbelow (the percentages are expressed by weight of raw material unless mentioned otherwise).

(31) TABLE-US-00003 Content Ingredients (INCI name) (% weight) A1 Propylene carbonate 0.2 Pigments 1.5 Plant oils with a molecular weight greater than 13.7 400 Da Disteardimonium hectorite 0.7 (Bentone VCG, Elementis) A2 BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 5.9 (Softisan 649, Cremer Oleo) Petrolatum (SNOW WHITE PET USP, 3.9 from Calumet Specialty) DIMETHICONE (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 1.3 DIMETHICONE X-22-6711D from Shin Etsu CETYL PEG/PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE 3.9 (Abil EM 90, from Evonik Goldschmidt) Cyclohexasiloxane 3.9 Phenyltrimethicone (DOW CORNING 556 5.9 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID, from Dow Corning) POLYGLYCERYL-4 ISOSTEARATE (Isolan 1.3 GI34, from Evonik Goldschmidt) A3 POLYGLYCERYL-3 BEESWAX 5.7 (CERA BELLINA E00022; Koster Keunen) A4 Magnesium sulfate 0.7 Preservatives 0.9 Glycerin 3 Water qs 100% A5 ETHYLCELLULOSE Aquacoat ECD 30; FMC 5 Corporation; 30% dispersion in water, cetyl alcohol, sodium lauryl sulfate)

(32) Procedure:

(33) The disteardimonium hectorite is mixed in the plant oils and the propylene carbonate in the Rayneri deffloculator.

(34) The remaining ingredients of the oily phase are then added to the pprevious mixture under mixing in a double-shell skillet at 80° C.

(35) The whole is homogenized in the Rayneri deffloculator.

(36) Separately, the aqueous phase is prepared by mixing the ingredients (except for the Aquacoat ECD) under stirring in the Rayneri deffloculator and the temperature is stabilized to 60° C.

(37) The emulsion is then prepared by slowly pouring the aqueous phase obtained as such, over the preceding fatty phase (stirring in the Morritz; 3,000 to 4,000 rpm).

(38) The mixture obtained is cooled to ambient temperature under stirring (butterfly blades).

(39) Finally at 50° C., the Aquacoat ECD is added under stirring.

(40) The composition is cooled to ambient temperature and conditioned in an adapted container.

(41) Results:

(42) A homogeneous and stable composition is obtained.

(43) The composition is easy to apply, in a homogeneous deposit that does not flow and that does not chase.

(44) The deposit is fresh, thin, is not tacky and procures a persistent moisturizing effect.

Example 4

(45) The composition is prepared of which the ingredients are listed in the table hereinbelow (the percentages are expressed by weight of raw material unless mentioned otherwise).

(46) TABLE-US-00004 Content Ingredients (INCI name) (% weight) A1 Propylene carbonate 0.2 Pigments 1.5 Refined apricot kernel oil (OLVEA) 13.7 Disteardimonium hectorite 0.7 (Bentone VCG, Elementis) A2 BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 5.9 (Softisan 649, Cremer Oleo) Petrolatum (SNOW WHITE PET USP, 3.9 from Calumet Specialty) DIMETHICONE (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 1.3 DIMETHICONE X-22-6711D from Shin Etsu CETYL PEG/PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE 3.9 (Abil EM 90, from Evonik Goldschmidt) Cyclohexasiloxane 3.9 Phenyltrimethicone (DOW CORNING 556 5.9 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID, from Dow Corning) POLYGLYCERYL-4 ISOSTEARATE 1.3 (Isolan GI34, from Evonik Goldschmidt) A3 POLYGLYCERYL-3 BEESWAX 5.7 (CERA BELLINA E00022; Koster Keunen) A4 Magnesium sulfate 0.7 Preservatives 0.9 Glycerin 3 Water qsp 100% A5 ETHYLCELLULOSE Aquacoat ECD 30; FMC 5 Corporation; 30% dispersion in water, cetyl alcohol, sodium lauryl sulfate)

(47) Procedure:

(48) Phase A1:

(49) The disteardimonium hectorite is mixed in the apricot oil and the propylene carbonate in the Rayneri deffloculator.

(50) The pigments are ground in this mixture in the 3-drum passage cylinder.

(51) Phase A2:

(52) The oily phase is prepared by mixing all of the ingredients of phase A2 in a double-shell skillet and once the mixture is homogenized, the previously obtained phase A1 is added therein.

(53) This is homogenized and the wax is added at 80° C. (phase A3) and the whole is homogenized in the Rayneri deffloculator.

(54) Separately, the aqueous phase is prepared by mixing the ingredients of phase A4 under stirring in the Rayneri deffloculator and the temperature is stabilized to 60° C.

(55) The emulsion is then prepared by slowly pouring the aqueous phase obtained as such, over the preceding mixture (stirring in the Morritz; 3,000 to 4,000 rpm).

(56) The mixture obtained is cooled to ambient temperature under stirring (butterfly blades).

(57) Finally at 50° C., the Aquacoat ECD is added under stirring.

(58) The composition is cooled to ambient temperature and conditioned in an adapted container.

(59) Results:

(60) A homogeneous and stable composition is obtained.

(61) The viscosity of the composition is 6.2 Pa.Math.s (as measured according to the protocol as described in the specification).

(62) The composition is easy to apply, in a homogeneous deposit that does not flow and that does not chase. Moreover, it provides very good slippery properties and gives freshness sensation when applied on the lips.

(63) The deposit is fresh, light, comfortable, shiny, and covering, without any lips tightness. It is not tacky and procures a persistent moisturizing effect, which keeps the lips hydrated, flexible, smooth, and soft.

(64) This composition is stable for one month and two months, at several temperatures: 20° C., 4° C., and 45° C.

Example 5

(65) The composition is prepared of which the ingredients are listed in the table hereinbelow (the percentages are expressed by weight of raw material unless mentioned otherwise).

(66) TABLE-US-00005 Content Ingredients (INCI name) (% weight) A1 Propylene carbonate 0.2 Pigments 1.5 Refined apricot kernel oil (OLVEA) 13.7 Disteardimonium hectorite 0.7 (Bentone VCG, Elementis) A2 BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 5.9 (Softisan 649, Cremer Oleo) Petrolatum (SNOW WHITE PET USP, 3.9 from Calumet Specialty) DIMETHICONE (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 1.3 DIMETHICONE X-22-6711D from Shin Etsu CETYL PEG/PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE 3.9 (Abil EM 90, from Evonik Goldschmidt) Cyclohexasiloxane 3.9 Phenyltrimethicone (DOW CORNING 556 5.9 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID, from Dow Corning) POLYGLYCERYL-4 ISOSTEARATE 1.3 (Isolan GI34, from Evonik Goldschmidt) A3 BEESWAX (CERA ALBA; CERABEIL LOR 5.7 from Baerlocher) A4 Magnesium sulfate 0.7 Preservatives 0.9 Glycerin 3 Water qsp 100% A5 ETHYLCELLULOSE Aquacoat ECD 30; FMC 5 Corporation; 30% dispersion in water, cetyl alcohol, sodium lauryl sulfate)

(67) Procedure:

(68) Phase A1:

(69) The disteardimonium hectorite is mixed in the apricot oil and the propylene carbonate in the Rayneri deffloculator.

(70) The pigments are ground in this mixture in the 3-drum passage cylinder.

(71) Phase A2:

(72) The oily phase is prepared by mixing all of the ingredients of phase A2 in a double-shell skillet and once the mixture is homogenized, the previously obtained phase A1 is added therein.

(73) This is homogenized and the wax is added at 80° C. (phase A3) and the whole is homogenized in the Rayneri deffloculator.

(74) Separately, the aqueous phase is prepared by mixing the ingredients of phase A4 under stirring in the Rayneri deffloculator and the temperature is stabilized to 60° C.

(75) The emulsion is then prepared by slowly pouring the aqueous phase obtained as such, over the preceding mixture (stirring in the Morritz; 3,000 to 4,000 rpm).

(76) The mixture obtained is cooled to ambient temperature under stirring (butterfly blades).

(77) Finally at 50° C., the Aquacoat ECD is added under stirring.

(78) The composition is cooled to ambient temperature and conditioned in an adapted container.

(79) Results:

(80) A homogeneous and stable composition is obtained.

(81) The viscosity of the composition is 5.9 Pa.Math.s (as measured according to the protocol as described in the specification).

(82) The composition is easy to apply, in a homogeneous deposit that does not flow and that does not chase, with good slippery properties and a freshness sensation.

(83) The deposit is light, comfortable, shiny, and covering. It is not tacky and procures a persistent moisturizing effect.

(84) This composition is stable for one month and two months, at several temperatures: 20° C., 4° C., and 45° C.