COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR COATING KERATIN FIBRES

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, in particular for coating keratin fibres such as the eyelashes, comprising: an aqueous phase, a lamellar phase L formed by an aqueous phase-structuring surfactant system, said surfactant system comprising a content of surfactant(s) of greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one (poly)oxyalkylenated hydrophilic polymer present in a content of greater than or equal to 3% by weight of solids relative to the total weight of the composition, the hydrophilic polymer(s) having a weight-average molecular mass Mw ranging from 1500 to 500 000 g/mol. The present invention also relates to a process for coating keratin fibres.

Claims

1. A composition, comprising: an aqueous phase, a lamellar phase L formed by an aqueous phase-structuring surfactant system, said surfactant system comprising a content of surfactant(s) of greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and at least one (poly)oxyalkylenated hydrophilic polymer present in a content of greater than or equal to 1% by weight of solids relative to the total weight of the composition, the hydrophilic polymer(s) having a weight-average molecular mass Mw ranging from 1500 to 500 000 g/mol.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the surfactant system comprises at least one nonionic surfactant.

3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the surfactant system comprises: at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB value at 25 C. of less than 8, and at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB value at 25 C. of greater than or equal to 8, at least one from among the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25 C. of less than 8 and at least one from among the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25 C. of greater than or equal to 8 corresponding to formula (I) below:
(ALK-[C(O)].sub.a[O].sub.b).sub.cX(I) in which formula (I): ALK is a C.sub.7-C.sub.23, a and b are integers between 0 and 100, c is an integer between 1 and 100, X is a (poly)oxyalkylene group optionally substituted and/or terminated with a hydroxyl group.

4. The composition of claim 3, wherein the group X is:
HO-(ALK-O).sub.zCH2-CH[(OALK).sub.y-OH]CH2-(O-ALK).sub.x-(*)i) in which: ALK, which may be identical or different, representing a C1-C6, x, y and z being an integer between 0 and 200, it being understood that x+y+z is other than 0; or
H-(ALK-O).sub.x-(*) and H(O-ALK).sub.x-(*)ii) in which: ALK, which may be identical or different, representing a C1-C6, x is an integer other than 0.

5. The composition of claim 3, wherein at least one from among the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25 C. of less than 8 and the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25 C. of greater than or equal to 8, from: represented by formula (I):
ALK-(OCH.sub.2CH.sub.2).sub.nOH(I) in which formula (I): ALK is a C.sub.8-C.sub.24, n being an integer other than 0, between 1 and 200; represented by formula (I):
ALK-[C(O)].sub.a[O].sub.b).sub.c-(Gly).sub.d(I) in which formula (I): ALK is a C.sub.7-C.sub.23, a and b are integers between 0 and 100, c is an integer between 1 and 100, Gly is a glycerol group, optionally substituted and/or terminated with a hydroxyl group, d is an integer between 1 and 20; or mixtures thereof.

6. The composition of claim 3, wherein the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25 C. of less than 8 are: (poly)oxyalkylenated monosaccharide esters and ethers; esters of fatty acids and of (poly)oxyalkylenated polyol; esters of fatty acids and of (poly)glycerol; (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols; or mixture(s) thereof.

7. The composition of claim 3, wherein the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25 C. of less than 8 comprises a (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohol comprising an ether of a C.sub.8-C.sub.24 fatty alcohol and of polyethylene glycol, said ether comprising from 1 to 10 ethylene glycol units.

8. The composition of claim 3, wherein the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25 C. of greater than or equal to 8 are: (poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol ethers, (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols, esters of a fatty acid and of (poly)oxyalkylenated polyethylene glycol, esters of a fatty acid and of (poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol ethers, esters of a fatty acid and of (poly)oxyalkylenated sorbitol ethers, esters of fatty acids and of polyglycerol or mixture(s) thereof.

9. The composition of claim 3, wherein the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25 C. of greater than or equal to 8 comprises a (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohol comprising at least one ether of a C.sub.8-C.sub.24 fatty alcohol and of polyethylene glycol, said ether comprising at least 20 ethylene glycol units.

10. The composition of claim 3, wherein the nonionic surfactant(s) of formula (I) with an HLB value at 25 C. of greater than or equal to 8 are present in a content of greater than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition of claim 3, wherein the nonionic surfactant(s) of formula (I) with an HLB value at 25 C. of less than 8 are present in a content of greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition of claim 3, wherein the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25 C. of less than 8 and the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25 C. of greater than or equal to 8 are present in a total content ranging from 15% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition of claim 3, wherein the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25 C. of less than 8 of formula (I) and the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25 C. of greater than or equal to 8 of formula (I) are present in a respective total content such that the weight ratio of the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25 C. of less than 8 of formula (I) to the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25 C. of greater than or equal to 8 of formula (I) ranges from 1/5 to 5.

14. The composition of claim 1, wherein the (poly)oxyalkylenated hydrophilic polymer(s) are linear.

15. The composition of claim 1, wherein the (poly)oxyalkylenated hydrophilic polymer(s) are statistical polymers, block copolymers, or mixtures thereof.

16. The composition of claim 1, wherein the (poly)oxyalkylenated hydrophilic polymer(s) are: (poly)oxyalkylenated homopolymers, (poly)oxyalkylenated copolymers, (poly)oxyalkylenated block copolymers, or mixtures thereof.

17. The composition of claim 1, further comprising from 0 to 25% by weight of wax(es) relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. The composition of claim 1, comprising less than 5% by weight of wax(es) and at least 3% by weight of the (poly)oxyalkylenated hydrophilic polymer(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. The composition of claim 1, further comprising at least 10% by weight of wax(es).

20. The composition of claim 1, wherein a proportion of the aqueous phase is from 30% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

21. The composition of claim 1, further comprising at least one dyestuff comprising one or more pulverulent substance.

22. A process for coating keratin fibres, the process comprising applying the composition of claim 1 to keratin fibres.

Description

EXAMPLES

[0385] Mascara composition C1, C2, C3 and C4 in accordance with the invention were prepared and evaluated:

TABLE-US-00001 Ingredients with percentage Mw content of Commercial in Phases solids name Suppliers g/mol C1 C2 C3 C4 Phase A Steareth-2 Brij S2-SO-(TH) Croda 10 10 Glyceryl Tegin M Pellets Evonik 10 stearate Goldschmidt Steareth-20 Brij S20-PA-(SG) Croda 20 20 20 Glyceryl Arlacel 165-FL- Croda 30 stearate (CQ) (and) PEG- 100 stearate Iron Sunpuro Black Sun 8 8 8 8 oxides Iron Oxide C33- 7001 Phase B Polyethylene Lipoxol 4000 Sasol 3000-3500 3 3 3 glycol (75 Med Flakes OE) Poloxamer Pluracare/Pluronic BASF 8400 3 188 F 68 Prill (USA) Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Phase C Preserving agents qs qs qs qs

[0386] 1Protocol for Preparing Said Compositions

Preparation of Phase A

[0387] The starting materials are first weighed out carefully using a balance (precision=0.01 g). The ingredients of phase A are melted in a jacketed heating pan in which circulates an oil whose temperature is controlled by means of a thermostatic oil bath. The nominal temperature is set at 80 C. After total melting, the pigment is introduced with stirring using a Rayneri blender. Stirring is continued until a homogeneous preparation is obtained.

Preparation of Phase B

[0388] The water is preheated in an electric kettle to 95 C. The polymer is introduced into the water in a beaker at a temperature of 80 C. with stirring using a Rayneri blender.

Mixing of Phases A and B

[0389] Phase B is poured into phase A with stirring for 5 minutes at 80 C. using a Rayneri blender. Phase A+B is then cooled to room temperature.

Addition of Phase C

[0390] Phase C is introduced into phase A+B when the temperature of the mixture is less than or equal to 40 C.

End of Formulation

[0391] The mascara thus obtained is transferred into a closed container to prevent it from drying out on contact with air. After 24 hours, the satisfactory nature of the homogeneity and the dispersion of the pigment are evaluated.

[0392] Comparative mascara compositions C1, C2 and C3 outside the invention were prepared according to the same preparation protocol described above, and evaluated:

TABLE-US-00002 Ingredients with percentage content Commercial Mw in Phases of solids name Suppliers g/mol C1 C2 C3 Phase A Steareth-2 Brij S2-SO- Croda 10 10 10 (TH) Steareth-20 Brij S20-PA- Croda 20 20 20 (SG) Iron Sunpuro Sun 8 8 8 oxides Black Iron Oxide C33- 7001 Phase B PEG-32 Carbowax Dow Chemical 1300 3 Sentry PEG 1450 FLNFFCC Hydroxyethyl Cellosize QP Amerchol 730,000 3 Cellulose 4400 H (Dow Chemical) Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Phase C Preserving agent qs qs qs

[0393] 2Composition Evaluation Method

[0394] The compositions prepared are evaluated regarding: [0395] a) the black intensity, by visual observation and optionally quantification by measuring the parameter L* using a spectroradiometer such as a Minolta spectrocolorimeter, especially at 0, in the L* a* b* system: the smaller the value of L*, the darker the colour. [0396] b) the viscosity in Pa.Math.s may be measured at 25 C. with a rheometer, for example a Rheomat rheometer, [0397] c) the makeup result, and in particular: [0398] the comfort on application by assessing the application properties in terms of the glidance and the playtime (redeposition, retouching), especially regarding the ease of allowing at least 20 brushstrokes on the eyelashes, better still at least 25 brushstrokes, or even at least 30 brushstrokes, without the user sensing any dragging, [0399] the wear property of the curl via a rigidity study on a glass plate, consisting in spreading an amount of mascara and assessing the rigid feel.

[0400] 3Results of the Evaluation Measurements

TABLE-US-00003 C1 C2 C3 C4 C1 C2 C3 L* 6.4 5.2 5.1 5.8 8.1 9.2 23.2 Viscosity 7.1 7.8 7.1 8.6 1.2 1.3 30.2 (Pa .Math. s) Rigidity YES YES YES YES NO NO NO

[0401] Compositions C1 to C4 according to the invention combine the desired properties, i.e.: [0402] an intense black shade with a value L* of less than 10, [0403] while at the same time also having adequate rheology with a viscosity value at 25 C. of greater than 5 Pa.Math.s to provide a satisfactory makeup result in terms of playtime and charging, [0404] while at the same time affording good shaping and curling of the eyelashes, with a deposit that is rigid after drying.

[0405] The comparative reference compositions C1 to C3 are manifestly unsatisfactory in terms of shaping and curling of the eyelash fringe. Furthermore, compositions C1 and C2 have viscosities at 25 C. of less than 5 Pa.Math.s. Furthermore, composition C3 is manifestly less black than the compositions according to the invention.

[0406] It is understood that, in the context of the present invention, the weight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds are always expressed as weight of solids of the compound in question.

[0407] Throughout the application, the wording comprising one or including one means comprising at least one or including at least one, unless otherwise specified.