METHOD OF STONE SETTINGS

Abstract

The invention offers a solution in jewelry manufacturing and production industry. In details, the invention implies mounting stones on a metal base, including pieces of jewelry or bijouterie with stones or gems. According to the described method, each stone pavilion is placed in an appropriate seat, in which the inserted stones are held at least by protruding projections or beads made on the edge of the seats. The invention solves the issue of the densest placement of stones, which are mainly round in view from above or have a round gem-cutting on the surface of the base of a jewelry piece.

Claims

1. A method of stone settings for a piece of a jewelry or a bijouterie made of a metal or a metal alloy, for stones that are used for decoration of the jewelry or the bijouterie and are mounted on a surface of a base in seats, in which a set of stones of a larger diameter and a smaller diameter having a round shape in view from above or round gem-cutting, crown, girdle and pavilion, placed on the surface of the jewelry or bijouterie base; according to this method, the pavilion of each stone is placed in an appropriate seat, in which inserted stones are held at least by protruding projections or beads formed on edges of the seats, wherein a base area, its thickness and shape are previously determined based on a type, size, weight of the stones or purpose and/or a type of the jewelry or bijouterie piece where the base has at least one outer edge, points which correspond to centers of through holes are marked, wherein these marked points form a direct, or a radial, or an arcuate rows of seats, the seats for stones of a smaller and a larger diameter are made, where the larger diameter seats for stones are made by drilling through boles with a smaller diameter drill and then the hole entrance is expanded from the side of the base by a larger diameter drill to make a funneled-shape seat for the stone, and so formed smaller diameter holes of seats for the smaller diameter stones are smaller in size than so formed holes of smaller diameter seats for the larger diameter stones, grooves on the surface of the base are carved by a burin, moreover, the grooves pass across the center of the seats, moreover grooves are cm lengthwise, crosswise and diagonally under a preset angle as to the formed rows of seats, the preset angle is determined based on the shape and/or curvature of the base surface; moreover, the excessive metal is removed by carving out the grooves on the surface of the base, in addition, the grooves that pass along the rows of seats for the smaller diameter stones are deeper to ensure a multilevel arrangement of stones of different diameters, protruding projections or beads on the surface of the base are made, where these protruding projections or beads are formed on the edge of the seats, by expanding the funneled-shape seat entrances with a larger diameter drill both for the smaller diameter stones or the larger diameter stones, and the grooves are made, where so formed protruding projection or bead in cross section makes a rectangle, at least one side of which is made by a burin when cutting grooves and at least two sides are made when expanding the funneled-shape seat entrances with a larger diameter drill both for the smaller diameter stones or the larger diameter stones, and the protruding projections or beads used for fixing the larger diameter stones are larger in size then the protruding projections or beads used for fixing the smaller diameter stones, the protruding projections or beads intended for mounting the larger diameter stones are sharpened by making the angular cuts at least on two sides formed when expanding the funneled-shape seat entrances with a larger diameter drill for the larger diameter stones towards the middle of the bead, where so formed the angular cut on protruding projection or bead is intended to cover the girdle of the larger diameter stone, the smaller diameter stones are one by one mounted in seats of the respective rows and clamped by the protruding projections or beads, and then the larger diameter stones are placed in the respective rows and clamped by the protruding projections or beads, and the stones are placed into seats located by straight, or radial, or arcuate rows, where the rows of seats for the larger diameter stones intersect with the rows of seats for the smaller diameter stones and both the larger and smaller diameter stones make a multilevel structure of stones arrangement, and the smaller diameter stones are placed at the lower level, while the larger diameter stones are placed at the top level, so that the girdle of a smaller diameter stone is located below the girdle of a larger diameter stone as to the surface of the base, and the larger diameter stones are placed in such a way that the girdles of the neighboring larger diameter stones have a point of contact, and the larger diameter stones are placed with at least partial overlapping of the smaller diameter stones; the stones are mounted by means of processing the protruding projections or beads until the required shape is achieved, where the processing involves the simultaneous pressing and rotation of a ball burr on the protruding projections or beads, and each stone of the larger diameter is fixed either by two processed protruding projections or beads located on the opposite sides of the same groove at least in two points on the edge of the seat if the larger diameter stone in located in the last row or in the row adjacent to the last row of the smaller diameter stones, or by two pairs of the processed protruding projections or beads located on the opposite sides of the same groove in case the larger diameter stone separates at least one row of the larger diameter stones, and each smaller diameter stone is fixed either by one processed protruding projection or bead from one side at least in one point on the other side in case the smaller diameter stone is located in the last row or by two processed protruding projections or beads placed at the edges of two adjacent non-overlapping grooves, where the predetermined form of each protruding projections or beads processed by the ball bun has the spherical end, and at least one size of the spherical end of the protruding projection or bead used for fixing the larger diameter stone is bigger than the same size of the spherical end of the protruding projection or bead used for fixing the smaller diameter stone.

2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the outer edge of the base with fixed stones on it is cut of at the level of the girdle of the same diameter stones, while on the outer edge of the base an uncovered metal triangular shape area is formed.

3. The method according to claim 1, wherein the outer edge of the base with fixed stones on it is cut off around the circumference that repeats the circle of the girdles of the same diameter stones of the outer edge, at a predetermined distance from the girdles of the same diameter stones of the outer edge, with an uncovered metal V-shaped form area formed on the edge of the base.

4. The method according to claim 1, wherein the outer edge of the base with fixed stones on it is cut off around the circumference of the girdles of the same diameter stones of the outer edge.

Description

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0029] Summary of the invention and confirmation of the possibility of its implementation will be clear to a skilled specialist in this area from the following description, which is supported by the pictures, in which:

[0030] FIG. 1A shows the top view of the surface of a jewelry or a bijouterie base, marked with dots that correspond to the centers of through holes.

[0031] FIG. 1B shows the axonometric view of the surface of the jewelry or bijouterie base, marked with dots that correspond to the centers of through holes.

[0032] FIG. 2A shows the top view of the surface of the jewelry or bijouterie base with holes for seats of the smaller and larger diameter stones.

[0033] FIG. 2B shows the axonometric view of the surface of the base with holes for seats of the smaller and larger diameter stones.

[0034] FIG. 3A shows the top view of the surface of the base with funnel-shape seats for stones.

[0035] FIG. 3B shows the axonometric view of the surface of the base with funnel-shape seats for stones.

[0036] FIG. 4A shows the top view of the surface of the base with the grooves passing along the rows of seats for the smaller diameter stones.

[0037] FIG. 4B shows the axonometric view of the surface of the base with grooves passing along the rows of seats for the smaller diameter stones.

[0038] FIG. 5A shows the top view of the surface of the base formed with grooves cut lengthwise, crosswise and diagonally under a preset angle as to the formed rows of seats.

[0039] FIG. 5B shows the axonometric view of the surface of the base formed with grooves cut lengthwise, crosswise and diagonally under a preset angle as to the formed rows of seats.

[0040] FIG. 6A shows the top view of the surface of the base with protruding projections or beads formed on the surface of the base.

[0041] FIG. 6B shows the cross section of the base through protruding projections or beads.

[0042] FIG. 6C shows the axonometric view of the surface of the base with protruding projections or beads formed on the surface of the base.

[0043] FIG. 7A shows the top view of the surface of the base with the smaller diameter stones fixed.

[0044] FIG. 7B shows the axonometric view of the surface of the base with the smaller diameter stones fixed.

[0045] FIG. 8A shows the top view of the surface of the base with the smaller and larger diameter stones fixed.

[0046] FIG. 8B shows the axonometric view of the surface of the base with the smaller and larger diameter stones fixed.

[0047] FIG. 9A shows the axonometric view of the base for a ring design.

[0048] FIG. 9B shows the axonometric view of the final ring design.

[0049] FIG. 9C shows one more view of the final ring design.

[0050] FIG. 10A shows the axonometric view of the base of an alternative ring design.

[0051] FIG. 10B shows the axonometric view of the alternative final ring design.

[0052] FIG. 10C shows one more view of the alternative final ring design.

[0053] FIG, 11A shows the axonometric view of the base of an alternative ring design.

[0054] FIG. 11B shows the axonometric view of the alternative final ring design.

[0055] In FIG. 11C shows one more view of the alternative final ring design.

[0056] As the invention can be modified and may have some alternative designs, the following drawings are given as the examples to describe the invention and clarify the possibility of its implementation and will be described in details. It should be obvious that the enclosed pictures and the detailed description are not intended to limit the invention by the given design samples, but the invention shall include all possible modifications, equivalents and alternatives secured by the summary and the scope of the patent protection, which is set forth in the claims of the invention.

SPECIFIC DESCRIPTION OF PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0057] Below is the description of some possible embodiments and a special terminology will be used herein for their description. However, it is clear that there are no restrictions as to the scope of this invention. Changes and some additional modifications of some specific features of the invention described herein, as well as some additional applications of the principles of this invention described herein, which will be performed by a skilled specialist in the relevant technical field to which the described method belongs to, should be considered as those included in the scope of this invention. In addition, it should be understood that this invention is not restricted by a specific embodiment and materials described herein, because they may vary to some extent. It should also be understood that the document terminology is used only to describe some certain embodiments and is not intended to limit the scope of the legal protection. Usage of equivalent terms that will later be used by the third parties to describe this invention must be considered as the use of features of this method.

[0058] This invention refers to the method of stone mounting preferably in a piece of jewelry or bijouterie. However, application of this method for decorating weapons, stationery, decorative items and the like with stones will be clear for a skilled specialist. Precious, semiprecious and decorative stones, glass and its derived forms, artificial materials of transparent or semi-transparent structure can be used as the atones. The claimed method has the biggest advantages when the precious or semi-precious stones are used, due to the tricks of light in such materials. The stones have a round form in top view or have a round gem-cutting, crown, girdle and pavilion. Of course, the stones may have another form defined in an imaginary section of the girdle: square, rhomb-shaped, square-shaped, oval, triangular or polygonal. In this case the order of the seats for the stones changes, but the key point of the claimed method remains unchanged.

[0059] Preferably, the claimed method deals with the stones of two diameters. The diameter stands for the numeric value of the diameter size of the stone on its girdle if the stone has a circular shape in its top view or a round gem-cutting. For stones of other shapes a different definition of diameter can be applied, which implies the stone size between two points on its girdle.

[0060] According to the method, based on the type, size, weight of stones or purpose and/or type of a piece of jewelry or bijouterie, a base of the required size, thickness and shape is chosen, where the base has at least one outer edge. The base can be made of a precious or non-precious metal or a metal alloy, or the other material, which is suitable for machine processing. Preferably, the size of the stones is determined based on the fact that the diameter of a smaller diameter stone is bigger than or equal to the half of the diameter of a larger diameter stone.

[0061] The base can have different shapes: rectangular, curved, closed, spheroidal or other shapes. Keep in mind that the shape is taken according to the purpose or the type of the final design. Based on those, material and the shape of the base is chosen. The criteria for selecting the material for the base are the weight, cost, malleability, strength and accessibility of the material. Shape of base is selected based on the properties of the material or the artistic solution, purpose and characteristics of the final product. The edge of base stands for the place of base adjacent to the first or the last row of stones. The term at least one edge of the base implies availability of different forms of base embodiment: depending on its type and shape, a base can have one, two or more edges. For example, for a pendant can be chosen with a base of a spheroidal form having one edge with the attached needle or a fastening mechanism or a clasp etc. For the base that has more edges, a shape in the form of a triangle or a polygon or a shape with at least one direct line and/or one curve line combined (for example, a semicircle shape) is taken. A skilled specialist may choose a product shape based on the product type and its final purpose, whereas the essence of the claimed method of stone settings will remain the same.

[0062] FIG. 1a and FIG. 1b show the surface of the base of a jewelry or a bijouterie, marked with dots that correspond to the centers of the through holes. The markup points are plotted by making labels on the surface of the base. The markup points match with the centers of the through holes making direct, or radial, or arcuate rows of seats. The radius of curvature of the radial or curved rows is chosen based on the size of the base and technical characteristics of tools that will be used in further base processing.

[0063] FIGS. 2a and 2b show the surface of the base with the holes for the seats of the smaller and larger diameter stones. The seats for the stones are made by drilling through holes with a smaller diameter drill and then expanding these holes from the base side with a larger diameter drill to make a funneled-shape seat for the stone.

[0064] FIGS. 3a and 3b show the surface of the base with the formed seats of the funneled shape for the stones. The formed holes of the smaller diameter seats for the smaller diameter stones are smaller in size than the holes of the smaller diameter seats for the larger diameter stones. This is achieved by using a smaller diameter drill and a large diameter drill to obtain seats for the larger diameter stones and by using a smaller diameter drill and a larger diameter drill to obtain seats for the smaller diameter stones. FIGS. 2a and 2b, 3a and 3b clearly show the ratio between the diameters of these holes, but this ratio does not restrict embodiment of the claimed method only by this particular design.

[0065] FIG. 4a and FIG. 4b show the base surface with the formed grooves passing along the rows of seats for the smaller diameter stones. The grooves on the surface of the base are cut by a burin or by another method or tool by embedding its edge into the base. The grooves predominantly have a flat bottom and pass through the center of the seats. In addition, the grooves that pass along the rows of seats for the smaller diameter stones are deeper to provide a multilevel arrangement of stones of different diameters. This can increase a percentage of stones covering the surface of the product, as the smaller diameter stones will be partially overlapped by the larger diameter stones, as shown below.

[0066] FIGS. 5a and FIG. 5b show the base surface with the formed grooves cut lengthwise, crosswise and diagonally under a preset angle as to the formed rows of seats. The grooves predominantly have a flat bottom and pass through the center of seats. Moreover, the grooves are cut lengthwise, crosswise and diagonally under a preset angle as to the formed rows of seats. The specified angle is determined by the radius of curvature of the radial or curved rows of seats. In addition, the specified angle is determined based on the shape and/or the curvature of the base. At this step, the excessive metal is removed from the surface of the base by means of carving out grooves with a burin or by another method or tool. This allows to reduce the weight of the base, which is important for such products as earrings.

[0067] FIG. 6a and FIG. 6c show the base surface with the protruding projections or beads formed on the surface of the base. The protruding projections or beads are formed on the edge of the seats by expanding the funneled-shape seat entrances with a the larger diameter drills both for the smaller diameters stones and the larger diameter stones, and by making the grooves.

[0068] The protruding projection or bead has a four-cornered shape in its cross section with at least one side formed by a burin or by another method or tool when carving out the grooves and at least two sides formed when expanding the funneled-shape seats by the larger diameter drills both for the smaller diameters stones and the larger diameter stones. The dimensions of the protruding projections or beads depend on the selected diameter of a larger diameter drill.

[0069] And the protruding projections or beads used for fixing or clamping the larger diameter stones are larger in size than the size of the protruding projections or beads used for fixing the smaller diameter stones. The size can be adjusted by a burin to correct deviations, since these protruding projections or beads must be made of the same size mainly for the stones of the same diameter.

[0070] The protruding projections or beads made as described above, can increase the percentage of coverage of the base with the stones, since these protruding projections or beads ensure a tight allocation of the larger diameter stones on the base.

[0071] FIG. 6b shows a cross section of a base that matches the vertical axis of a protruding projection or a bead. The protruding projections or beads are sharpened for fixing the larger diameter stones by making the angular cuts at least on two sides formed while expanding the entrance of the funnel-shape seats with a larger diameter drill for the larger diameter stones towards the middle of the bead, where the angular cut on the protruding projection or bead is formed in order to cover the girdle of the larger diameter. This can increase the mounting strength, since the protruding projections or beads clench the girdle of stone by the formed groove without additional mechanical processing.

[0072] The smaller diameter stones are placed into the seats in the respective rows one by one and are clenched by the protruding projections or beads. FIG. 7a and FIG. 7b show the surface of the base with the smaller diameter stones placed. Then the larger diameter stones are placed in the respective rows and clenched by the protruding projections or beads, as shown in FIG. 8a and FIG. 8b. At the same time the stones are placed into the seats formed by the straight, or radial, or arcuate rows, where the rows of seats for the larger diameter stones interchange with the rows of seats for the smaller diameter stones, and both the larger and smaller diameter stones form a multilevel stones arrangement structure. And the smaller diameter stones are placed at the lower level, while the larger diameter stones are placed at the top level, so that the girdle of the smaller diameter stones is below the girdle the larger diameter stones as to the surface of the base. This is done to ensure the multilevel allocation of the stones on the base, which increases the percentage of coverage of the base by the stones.

[0073] The stones are mounted by processing the protruding projections or beads until the required form is achieved, where the processing involves the simultaneous pressing and rotation of the burin onto the protruding projections or beads.

[0074] If the larger diameter stone is located in the last row or in the row adjacent to the last row of the smaller diameter stones, it is mounted by clenching with two processed protruding projections or beads located on the opposite sides of the same groove at least at two points on the edge of the seat. If the larger diameter stone is separated from the edge of the base by at least one row of the large diameter stones, it is mounted by clenching with two pairs of the processed protruding projections or beads located on the opposite sides of the same groove.

[0075] If the smaller diameter stone is located in the last row, it is mounted by clenching with a processed protruding projection or a bead from one side at least at one point. If the smaller diameter stone is located between the rows of the larger diameter stones, it is mounted by clenching with two processed protruding projections or beads located at the edges of two adjacent non-overlapping grooves.

[0076] As shown in FIG. 7a, FIG. 7b, FIG. 8a, FIG. 8b, the predetermined form of each protruding projection or bead processed by a burin is the spheroidal end. At least one size of the spheroidal end of the protruding projection or bead used for fixing the larger diameter stone, is bigger than the same size of the spheroidal end of the protruding projection or bead used for fixing the smaller diameter stone. This differentiation in sizes of the spheroidal ends of beads ensures more secure mounting of stones of various diameters, without reducing the area of the base covered by the stones. The chosen form of the protruding projection or bead end prevents its adhesion to clothing, skin or other surfaces while wearing a final product.

[0077] If the spheroidal end of the protruding projection or bead is damaged, the larger diameter stone will not fall out of the seat, which is achieved due to other beads holding the stone in its seat. If, in case of a mechanical damage of the product, the larger diameter stone falls out, the neighboring stones both of the larger and the smaller diameter, will remain in their seats, because each stone is held it its seat by a couple of protruding projections or beads. The stone that fell out can be quite easily inserted back into its seat and fixed again by the protruding projections or beads. The proposed method of stone mounting significantly improves maintainability of the final products.

[0078] The ratio of the area covered by the stones to the total area of the base gives a relative ratio of covering the product surface with the stones. At the same time it should be taken into account that only the side of the product with the stones placed on it is considered as the base area. For example, if this method is used for making a ring, only the outer area of the ring will be the base area, since the inner ring area is adjacent to the wearing site and does not elect the product attractiveness in general.

[0079] As shown in FIG. 9a, FIG. 9b, FIG. 9c, the product design ensures that the outer edge of the base with the stones fixed on it is cut off at the girdle level of the stones of the same diameter, In this case some metal parts of a triangular shape uncovered by the stones are formed on the outer edge. By this application approximately 90% of the base is covered.

[0080] Another design, as it shown in FIG. 10a, FIG. 10b, FIG. 10c, ensures that the outer edge of the base with the fixed stones on it is cut off around the circumference that repeats the circle of the stones girdles of the same diameter of the outer edge, at a predetermined distance from the stones girdles of the same diameter of the outer edge, with an uncovered metal V-shaped area formed on the edge of the base. FIG. 9a is given for more clear understanding of how the base edge is processed. By this application approximately 92% of the base is covered.

[0081] Another design, as it shown in FIG. 11a, FIG. 11b, FIG. 11c, ensures that the outer edge of the base with the fixed stones on it is cut off around the circumference of the girdles of the same diameter stones of the outer edge. FIG. 10a is given for more clear understanding of how the base edge is processed. By this application approximately 98% of the base is covered.