Hydrous hair care compositions and methods
11633347 · 2023-04-25
Assignee
Inventors
Cpc classification
A61Q5/06
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/898
HUMAN NECESSITIES
C08L83/08
CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
International classification
A61K8/898
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
Methods and compositions for preventing or reducing hair frizz. The compositions are preferably oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions comprise at least one polysiloxane fluid component selected from an amodimethicone and a polysiloxane component comprising a plurality of hindered amine side chains. The compositions also comprise a silicone-compatible, volatile or non-volatile liquid carrier component, preferably comprising a component selected from a low molecular weight, volatile siloxy component; a hydrocarbon; and an alcohol. The compositions are preferably combing cremes, sprays or mousses, and are suitable for use a “leave-in” hair care product, or as a touch-up hair care product suitable for use during the day.
Claims
1. A method of reducing hair fizz, comprising the steps: I) applying to hair an emulsion lacking a detersive component comprising a) about 2.5% to 5% by weight of propoxytetramethyl piperidinyl dimethicone component, b) selected from the group consisting of dimethicone, dimethiconol, phenyl methicone, phenyl methiconol, a phenyl trimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, hexamethylsiloxane, disiloxane, trisiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane volatile or non-volatile liquid carrier component; and c) water, and II) distributing said composition along a plurality of hair shafts; in which, when said emulsion is applied to frizzy hair and permitted to dry according to said method, said hair displays a reduction in hair frizz after incubation at 80° F. and 80% humidity for 6 hours relative to as compared to the amount of hair frizz observed in identical frizzy hair treated with an otherwise identical emulsion in which the propoxytetramethyl piperidinyl dimethicone component is substituted with dimethicone and incubated under identical conditions for an equal time period.
2. A method according to claim 1 wherein said emulsion is selected from a cationic oil-in-water emulsion; a non-ionic oil-in-water emulsion; and a non-ionic water-in-oil emulsion.
3. A method according to claim 1 wherein said emulsion comprises one or more fatty quaternary ammonium salt, fatty amine, fatty alcohol or fatty alcohol derivative thereof.
4. A method according to claim 3 wherein said fatty alcohol or non-ionic derivative is esterification product of a fatty alcohol and a polyethylene glycol.
5. A method according to claim 1 wherein said emulsion comprises one or more water-soluble thickener.
6. A method according to claim 5 wherein said one or more water-soluble thickener is selected from the group consisting of cellulose-based thickeners, guar gums, cassia gums, locust bean gums, xanthan gums, acacia senegal gums, caesalpina spinosa gums, a clay, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylates copolymers, derivatized and underivatized carbomers, an organically modified clay, and mixtures thereof.
7. A method according to claim 2 wherein said emulsion is a cationic oil-in-water emulsion and comprises one or more fatty quaternary ammonium salts.
8. A method according to claim 2 wherein said emulsion is selected from a non-ionic oil-in-water emulsion; and a non-ionic water-in-oil emulsion and comprises one or more nonionic emulsifiers.
9. A method according to claim 1 wherein the emulsion further comprises one or more components selected from the group consisting of a colorant component, a detangling aid, a hair shine ingredient, a humectant, a sunscreen ingredient, an aesthetic modifier component, a thickener component, a preservative component, a fragrance component, a pH adjustment component, a plasticizer component, an appearance modifier, an antioxidant component, an essential oil component, a botanical component, a scent component, a nucleic acid component, a protein, an amino acid and a vitamin.
Description
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
(1)
(2)
(3)
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
(4) The present invention is drawn to water-containing methods, compositions and uses for the reduction of hair frizz.
(5) Preferred features of the invention will now be described.
(6) In a preferred embodiment of the present invention there is provided a water-containing anti-frizz composition comprising: a) at least about 3.0%, by weight, of a polysiloxane fluid component selected from one or more of: i) an amodimethicone component, and ii) a polysiloxane component comprising a plurality of hindered amine side chains; b) an optional silicone-compatible, volatile or non-volatile liquid carrier component, and c) water.
(7) In another preferred embodiment of the present invention there is provided a water-containing anti-frizz composition comprising: a) at least about 3.0%, by weight, of a polysiloxane fluid component selected from one or more of: i) an amodimethicone component, and ii) a polysiloxane component comprising a plurality of hindered amine side chains; b) water.
(8) Often the polysiloxane fluid component is dispersed as fine droplets in the carrier fluid; this will aid in distributing the polysiloxane fluid component evenly onto the hair.
(9) Component a) may suitably be an amodimethicone (short for “amino-functionalized dimethicone”—a family of amino functionalized dimethicones and dimethiconols); which genus may include trimethyl silylamodimethicone, or an aminopropyl dimethicone. See the structure below:
(10) ##STR00003##
(11) wherein X+Y is between about 50 to about 500 and R is a C.sub.3 to C.sub.6 alkylene group. Such compounds are sold by the Dow Corning Corp. under names such as DOW CORNING X2-8200, DOW CORNING X2-8107, Q2-8220, X2-8123, X2-8124, X2-8120, Softener CSF and X2-8130. In trimethyl silylamodimethicone, R═—(CH.sub.2).sub.3— in the structure immediately above. An aminopropyl dimethicone has the same dimethylsiloxane backbone structure with the pendant group being —(CH.sub.2).sub.3—NH.sub.2, and is also available from Dow Corning, Corp. In preferred embodiments, trimethylsilylamodimethicone and/or aminopropyl dimethicone may be used in conjunction, or in place of a polysiloxane component comprising a plurality of hindered amine side chains, as described below, in non-fizz compositions of the invention.
(12) Component a) may therefore suitably comprise a polysiloxane component comprising a plurality of hindered amine side chains.
(13) Such hindered amine side chains have the general formula (Formula 1), pendant from at least one Si atom in the polysiloxane side chain:
(14) ##STR00004##
(15) wherein R.sub.1 is an H, OH, or a C.sub.1-C.sub.5 hydrocarbon; X is a C.sub.1-C.sub.10 hydrocarbon, a heteroatom, or
(16) ##STR00005##
(17) wherein Z is a heteroatom and d is 0 to about 6. Preferably Z is selected from N, O, S and P. In a preferred embodiment, Z is oxygen and d is about 3.
(18) Preferably the cyclic moiety is a 5-membered ring or a 6-membered ring (e.g. a pyrrolidinyl ring or a piperidinyl ring), particularly preferably the cyclic moiety is a 6 membered ring.
(19) The cyclic moiety of the side chain may be saturated, partly saturated, or unsaturated.
(20) Preferably, the cyclic moiety is saturated. In preferred examples the side chain has the structure of Formula 2:
(21) ##STR00006##
(22) wherein R.sub.1, R.sub.2, R.sub.3, R.sub.4, R.sub.5, R.sub.6, R.sub.7, R.sub.8 and R.sub.9 are independently an H, a C.sub.1-C.sub.10 hydrocarbon, an ester, a carboxyl or a halogen, and X is a C.sub.1-C.sub.10 hydrocarbon, a heteroatom, or
(23) ##STR00007##
(24) wherein Z is a heteroatom and d is 0 to about 6.
(25) In some examples X is a C.sub.1-C.sub.5 hydrocarbon or a heteroatom such as a heteroatom selected from N, O, Si, P and S, preferably 0. In other preferred examples, X is —(CH.sub.2).sub.d—Z—, wherein Z is a heteroatom and d is 0 to about 6.
(26) Preferably, d is from 1 to 4, most preferably 3.
(27) Preferably Z is selected from N, O, S and P most preferably 0.
(28) In some preferred examples R.sub.1 is H.
(29) In some preferred examples R.sub.2, R.sub.3, R.sub.8 and R.sub.9 are each methyl.
(30) In some preferred examples R.sub.4, R.sub.5, R.sub.6 and R.sub.7 are each H.
(31) In some preferred examples R.sub.1 is H and R.sub.2, R.sub.3, R.sub.8 and R.sub.9 are each methyl.
(32) In some preferred examples R.sub.1 is H and R.sub.2, R.sub.3, R.sub.8 and R.sub.9 are each methyl and X is —(CH.sup.2).sub.d—Z—, wherein Z is a heteroatom preferably oxygen and d is 0 to about 6, preferably 1 to 4 preferably 3.
(33) In a preferred example, R.sub.1, R.sub.4, R.sub.5, R.sub.6 and R.sub.7 are H and R.sub.2, R.sub.3, R.sub.8 and R.sub.9 are methyl.
(34) In a preferred example, R.sub.1, R.sub.4, R.sub.5, R.sub.6 and R.sub.7 are H and R.sub.2, R.sub.3, R.sub.8 and R.sub.9 are methyl and X is —(CH.sub.2).sub.d—Z—, wherein Z is a heteroatom preferably oxygen and d is 0 to about 6, preferably 1to 4 preferably 3.
(35) A preferred polysiloxane component comprising a plurality of hindered amine side chains is an alkoxytetramethyl piperidinyl dimethicone; particularly preferably, propoxytetramethyl piperidinyl dimethicone (also called “HNH”). The structure of HNH is shown below, where m and n each is equal to or greater than 1; and in preferred preparations m+n is greater than 2, or greater than about 5, or greater than about 10, or greater than about 20, or greater than about 30, or greater than about 40, or greater than about 50, or greater than about 40, or greater than about 50. Preferably, m+n is less than about 700 or less than about 600, or less than about 500, or between about 50 and about 500.
(36) ##STR00008##
(37) Such polysiloxane hindered amine compounds, including the preferred alkoxytetramethyl piperidinyl dimethicone component, may be prepared or obtained in a range of molecular weights having a range of viscosities such as from 10 cP to 1 million cP, preferably 100 cP to 100,000 cP; for example, one preparation may have a viscosity of about 200 cP, while another preparation may have a viscosity of about 10,000 cP, while yet another preparation may have a viscosity of about 30,000 cP or 90,000 cP. Blends of HNH preparations having different viscosities may be made to aid in rendering a composition having a desired final viscosity.
(38) Component a) may suitably be a polysiloxane component comprising a plurality of hindered amine side chains comprising one or more of a piperidinyl moiety and/or a pyrrolidinyl moiety. In some examples, component a) comprises a polysiloxane component comprising at least two, or a plurality of, side chains, in which at least one side chain comprises a piperidinyl moiety, and another side chain comprises at least one pyrrolidinyl moiety.
(39) Suitably, in some examples component a) may comprise a combination of one or more polysiloxane hindered amine compounds and one or more amodimethicones.
(40) In some examples component a) may contain a polysiloxane component that comprises both an amodimethicone-type side chain and a plurality of hindered amine side chains as part of a single molecule.
(41) The preferred compositions of the present invention comprises at least 3%, or at least about 3.1%, or at least about 3.2% by weight, or at least about 3.3% by weight, or at least about 3.4% by weight; preferably at least about 3.5%, or at least about 3.6%, or at least about 3.7% or at least about 3.8% or at least about 3.9% or at least about 4.0%, or at least about 4.1%, or at least about 4.2% by weight, or at least about 4.3% by weight, or at least about 4.4% by weight; preferably at least about 4.5%, or at least about 4.6%, or at least about 4.7% or at least about 4.8% or at least about 4.9% or at least about 5.0% by weight of polysiloxane fluid component a). Preferably the composition comprises up to about 25%, or up to about 20%, or up to about 18% or up to about 15% by weight of polysiloxane fluid component a).
(42) Component b) is a silicone-compatible, volatile liquid carrier component. Component b) is optional, but may be preferred to aid spreadability of the polysiloxane fluid component a) on the hair. Component b) may comprise one or more components independently selected from a low molecular weight, volatile siloxy component, a volatile hydrocarbon, and a volatile alcohol.
(43) Component b) provides a volatile or non-volatile liquid carrier for the nonvolatile components of the anti-fizz compositions herein, including component a) and other components described herein.
(44) In some embodiments, component b) may comprise a silicone-compatible, volatile liquid carrier component comprising a volatile siloxy component selected from a dimethicone, a dimethiconol, a phenyl methicone, a phenyl methiconol, a phenyl trimethicone, a diphenyl dimethicone, a phenyl dimethicone, and a diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, a hexamethylsiloxane, a disiloxane, a trisiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, and a mixture of two or more of these components. Typically, the volatile siloxy component will have a viscosity of less than 6 cSt; for example between 0.65 cSt to 3 cSt; such as 1 cSt to 3 cSt. Generally, commercially available preparations of siloxy components within these viscosity ranges contain a distribution of lower and higher viscosity components centered around the stated viscosity of the siloxy component. Siloxy components of 0.65 cSt to 2 cSt are volatile; siloxy component preparations of 3 cSt may be partially volatile.
(45) In some embodiments component b) may comprise a silicone-compatible, volatile liquid carrier component comprising a volatile hydrocarbon, such as isododecane.
(46) In some embodiments component b) may comprise a silicone-compatible, volatile liquid carrier component comprising a volatile alcohol, such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or mixtures thereof.
(47) In some examples the silicone-compatible, volatile liquid carrier component b) may comprise a siloxy component and a hydrocarbon component; a siloxy component and an alcohol component; an alcohol component and a hydrocarbon component; or a siloxy component, an alcohol component and a hydrocarbon component.
(48) Thus, in one preferred embodiment, of the present invention there is provided a hydrous anti-fizz composition comprising: a) at least about 3.0%, by weight, of a polysiloxane fluid component selected from one or more of: i) an amodimethicone component, and ii) a polysiloxane component comprising a plurality of hindered amine side chains; b) optionally, a silicone-compatible, volatile or non-volatile liquid carrier component selected from: a low molecular weight, volatile siloxy component; a hydrocarbon; and an alcohol, and c) water.
(49) Preferably the polysiloxane fluid component is present in an amount from at least 3%, or at least about 3.1%, or at least about 3.2% by weight, or at least about 3.3% by weight, or at least about 3.4% by weight; preferably at least about 3.5%, or at least about 3.6%, or at least about 3.7% or at least about 3.8% or at least about 3.9% or at least about 4.0%, or at least about 4.1%, or at least about 4.2% by weight, or at least about 4.3% by weight, or at least about 4.4% by weight; preferably at least about 4.5%, or at least about 4.6%, or at least about 4.7% or at least about 4.8% or at least about 4.9% or at least about 5.0%, or at least about 10%, by weight. In some embodiments the polysiloxane fluid component is present in an amount up to about 15% by weight, or to about 18% by weight, or about 20% by weight.
(50) The optional silicone-compatible, volatile liquid carrier component is preferably present in an amount from about 22% by weight, to about 97.5% by weight.
(51) Optionally, an alkylsiloxysilicate component is present at a concentration between 0% and about 15% by weight.
(52) Optionally, particularly (although not exclusively) for serums, a non-volatile dimethicone and/or dimethiconol component having a viscosity of greater than 60,000 cP is present in an amount of from about 3% by weight to about 15% by weight. In certain cases the dimethicone or dimethiconol component may be comprised in a co-polymer or cross-polymer.
(53) Optionally, particularly (although not exclusively) for low viscosity anti-frizz serum spritz or spray blends a non-volatile dimethicone and/or dimethiconol component having a viscosity of between about 5 cSt and about 1000 cP is present in an amount of from about 0.1% by weight to about 20% by weight. In certain cases, the dimethicone or dimethiconol component may be comprised in a co-polymer or cross-polymer.
(54) In another preferred embodiment of the present invention there is provided a hydrous anti-fizz composition comprising: a) at least about 3.0%, by weight, of a polysiloxane fluid component selected from one or more of: i) an amodimethicone component, and ii) a polysiloxane component comprising propoxytetramethyl piperidinyl dimethicone component; and b) optionally, a silicone-compatible, volatile or non-volatile liquid carrier component selected from: a dimethicone, a dimethiconol, a phenyl methicone, a phenyl methiconol, a phenyl trimethicone, a diphenyl dimethicone, a phenyl dimethicone, and a diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, a hexamethylsiloxane, a disiloxane, a trisiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, isododecane, methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or mixtures of two or more of these components, and c) water.
(55) Preferably the polysiloxane fluid component is present in an amount from at least 3%, or at least about 3.1%, or at least about 3.2% by weight, or at least about 3.3% by weight, or at least about 3.4% by weight; preferably at least about 3.5%, or at least about 3.6%, or at least about 3.7% or at least about 3.8% or at least about 3.9% or at least about 4.0%, or at least about 4.1%, or at least about 4.2% by weight, or at least about 4.3% by weight, or at least about 4.4% by weight; preferably at least about 4.5%, or at least about 4.6%, or at least about 4.7% or at least about 4.8% or at least about 4.9% or at least about 5.0%, or at least about 10%, by weight. In some embodiments the polysiloxane fluid component is present in an amount up to about 15% by weight, or to about 18% by weight, or about 20% by weight.
(56) The silicone-compatible, volatile liquid carrier component is preferably present in an amount from about 0.5% by weight, to about 97.5% by weight.
(57) Optionally, an alkylsiloxysilicate component is present at a concentration from greater than 0% to about 15% by weight.
(58) Optionally, particularly (although not exclusively) for serums, a non-volatile dimethicone and/or dimethiconol component having a viscosity of greater than 60,000 cP is present in an amount of from about 3% by weight to about 15% by weight. In certain cases the dimethicone or dimethiconol component may be comprised in a co-polymer or cross-polymer.
(59) Optionally, particularly (although not exclusively) for low viscosity anti-frizz serum spritz or spray blends a non-volatile dimethicone and/or dimethiconol component having a viscosity of between about 5 cSt and about 1000 cP is present in an amount of from about 0.1% by weight to about 20% by weight. In certain cases, the dimethicone or dimethiconol component may be comprised in a co-polymer or cross-polymer.
(60) If present, the optional alkylsiloxysilicate component may preferably comprise a trimethylsiloxysilicate component, a phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate component or mixtures thereof. Most preferably, the alkylsiloxysilicate component comprises a trimethylsiloxysilicate component.
(61) In preferred examples, the alkylsiloxysilicate component comprises a trimethylsiloxysilicate-based Q resin silicone polymer, known also as MQ resin. Trimethylsiloxysilicate has the basic structure (CH.sub.3).sub.3—Si—O—Si—(OH).sub.3; the (CH.sub.3).sub.3—Si—O unit is known as an “M” unit, while SiO.sub.4 is known as a “Q” unit. An MQ resin is built from M and Q units to form a branched, cage-like oligosiloxane structure that is insoluble in water. Such resins are known to those skilled in the art and are available from Dow Corning Corp. and sold under trade names including DOW CORNING MQ-1600 and DOW CORNING MQ-1640.
(62) Thus in one preferred embodiment, of the present invention there is provided a hydrous anti-fizz composition comprising: a) at least about 3.0%, by weight, of a polysiloxane fluid component selected from one or more of: i) an amodimethicone component, and ii) a polysiloxane component comprising a plurality of hindered amine side chains; and b) optionally, a silicone-compatible, volatile liquid carrier component, c) a trimethylsiloxysilicate-based resin silicone polymer, and d) water.
(63) Preferably the polysiloxane fluid component is present in an amount from at least 3%, or at least about 3.1%, or at least about 3.2% by weight, or at least about 3.3% by weight, or at least about 3.4% by weight; preferably at least about 3.5%, or at least about 3.6%, or at least about 3.7% or at least about 3.8% or at least about 3.9% or at least about 4.0%, or at least about 4.1%, or at least about 4.2% by weight, or at least about 4.3% by weight, or at least about 4.4% by weight; preferably at least about 4.5%, or at least about 4.6%, or at least about 4.7% or at least about 4.8% or at least about 4.9% or at least about 5.0%, or at least about 10%, by weight. In some embodiments the polysiloxane fluid component is present in an amount up to about 15% by weight, or to about 18% by weight, or about 20% by weight.
(64) The silicone-compatible, volatile liquid carrier component is preferably present in an amount from about 0.5% by weight, to about 97.5% by weight.
(65) The alkylsiloxysilicate component is preferably present at a concentration from greater than 0% to about 15% by weight.
(66) Particularly (although not exclusively) for , a non-volatile dimethicone and/or dimethiconol component having a viscosity of greater than 60,000 cP may be present in an amount of from about 3% by weight to about 15% by weight. In certain cases the dimethicone or dimethiconol component may be comprised in a co-polymer or cross-polymer.
(67) Particularly (although not exclusively) for low viscosity [anti-frizz spritzer spray blends a non-volatile dimethicone and/or dimethiconol component having a viscosity of between about 5 cSt and about 1000 cP may be present in an amount of from about 0.1% by weight to about 20% by weight. In certain cases, the dimethicone or dimethiconol component may be comprised in a co-polymer or cross-polymer.
(68) Thus, in some preferred embodiments the invention provides a hydrous anti-frizz composition comprising: a) at least 3.0%, by weight, of a polysiloxane fluid component selected from one or more of: i) an amodimethicone component, and ii) a polysiloxane component comprising a plurality of hindered amine side chains; and b) a silicone-compatible liquid carrier component, c) a trimethylsiloxysilicate-based resin silicone polymer, d) a nonvolatile component selected from one or more of dimethicone, dimethiconol and phenyl silicone, and e) water.
(69) The nonvolatile component d) may comprise a single component, or a mixture of components, and may have a viscosity ranging from about 6 cSt to several million cSt.
(70) The nonvolatile component d) may comprise one or more of dimethicone, dimethiconol and phenyl silicone components typically referred to as low viscosity (low molecular weight) for example having a viscosity of between 6 to 5000 cSt, intermediate viscosity (intermediate molecular weight) for example having a viscosity between 5000 to 60,000 cSt, high viscosity (high molecular weight) for example having a viscosity >60,000 cSt. The non-volatile component may be present as part of a cross-polymer or co-polymer.
(71) In embodiments in which component d) comprises one or more of a high viscosity dimethicone, dimethiconol and phenyl silicone components, the viscosity may be between 60,000 cSt and several million cSt. In some embodiments the viscosity may be between 60,000 cSt and 4 million cSt. In some embodiments, the viscosity may be between 60,000 cSt and 35 million cSt for example when using high molecular weight gums, such as dimethicone gum, or dimethiconol gum.
(72) In embodiments wherein component d) comprises one or more phenyl silicones, the phenyl silicone may include phenyl methicones, phenyl methiconols, phenyl trimethicones, diphenyl dimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, and diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicones.
(73) In some embodiments, component b) provides a liquid carrier for the non-volatile anti-frizz components comprising component a), optional component c), and/or optional component d).
(74) Thus, in some embodiments of the invention low molecular weight, volatile dimethicone components such as hexamethylsiloxane, disiloxane and/or trisiloxane may be comprised in the volatile carrier for the non-volatile anti-frizz components (non-volatile polysiloxanes and/or trimethylsiloxysilicate and hindered amine siloxanes such as propoxytetramethyl piperidinyl dimethicone.
(75) The high viscosity polysiloxane component thickens the anti-frizz serum for application control, application aesthetics, and additionally so that it may form a film or coating on the hair fiber. When formulated with a silicone-compatible, non-aqueous volatile carrier the polysiloxane component applies smoothly and provides an excellent hair feel after the carrier evaporates.
(76) When formulated in a composition at higher concentrations, the high viscosity polysiloxane component, particularly when combined with trimethylsiloxysilicate, unexpectedly also aids in increased curl definition and curl memory is also retained under high humidity conditions when 1.5 gram tresses are treated with the composition and evaluated at 80° F. and 80% humidity for 6 hours.
(77) While not wishing to be limited by theory, greater curl definition and curl memory is thought to be achieved by removing water from the cortex of the hair shaft during application and/or preventing water from being taken up by the hair and also by reducing the hair fiber-to-hair fiber friction, thus permitting the hair shafts to align against each other and causing an increase in curl definition.
(78) Dimethicones of low and intermediate viscosity, such as a viscosity between about 6 cSt to 60,000 cSt can be used as instead of, or in combination with the high molecular weight siloxanes (e.g. dimethicone or dimethiconol) to keep the viscosity of the anti-frizz serum, spritz or spray within the desired viscosity for their intended use; serums are commonly used after shampooing and/or conditioning as a leave-in agent, while sprays and “spritzes” are generally used as a touchup during the day.
(79) Phenyl silicones such as phenyl methicones, phenyl methiconols, phenyl trimethicones, diphenyl dimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, and diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicones and the like can used in place of, or in combination with, either high, intermediate, or low viscosity dimethicone, dimethiconols, volatile hydrocarbons and/or alcohols in, for example, low viscosity applications. Like the siloxanes described above, these materials can improve the ease of application (“spreadability”) of the composition on the hair and improve hair shine.
(80) In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention may optionally contain one or more additional ingredients. For example, the additional ingredient may comprise one or more components selected from the group consisting of:
(81) a colorant component (such as a cosmetically approved silicone-soluble dye),
(82) a hair shine ingredient (such as one or more ingredient selected from phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone, caprylic/capric triglycerides, mineral or natural oils, and alkyl benzoates),
(83) a sunscreen ingredient (such as titanium oxide and zinc oxide),
(84) an aesthetic modifier component (e.g., thickener components, preservative components, fragrance components, pH adjustment components, plasticizer components, appearance modifiers and/or anti-oxidant components). Such agents may include one or more of the following medium to high molecular weight silicone components: dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, vinyl dimethicone/lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer, lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone/bis-vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, alkyl silicones, stearoxytrimethylsilane, ethylene-dimethicone copolymer, polyethylsiloxanes, alkyl silicones including caprylyl methicone, lauryl methicone and stearoxymethicone,
(85) an essential oil component,
(86) a botanical component,
(87) a scent component,
(88) a nucleic acid component,
(89) a specialty extract component, and
(90) a vitamin.
(91) In some embodiments, the methods and compositions disclosed herein may be used on hair that has not been artificially dyed or pigmented.
(92) In other embodiments, the methods and compositions disclosed may be used on hair that has been artificially dyed or pigmented, for example to retain hair color.
(93) In some presently less preferred examples the compositions of the present invention may comprise a polysiloxane component in combination with a detersive component (for example, as a component of a “conditioning shampoo” formulation); while in other, more preferred, examples the compositions of the present invention are not formulated in a shampoo formulation or used to clean hair or skin, and even more preferably, lack a detersive component. By a “detersive component” is meant a composition comprising a surfactant concentration is effective to clean dirt or oil from skin or hair when used as an ordinary soap or shampoo.
(94) In some examples, the compositions of the present invention may cause a reduction in hair frizz at 80° F. and 80% humidity relative to untreated otherwise identical frizzy hair under the same temperature and humidity conditions.
(95) A preferred method for measuring the reduction in hair fizz is the High Humidity Frizz Control Test Method defined in the examples. In this application a reduction in hair frizz is suitably measured using this test, relative to untreated frizzy hair under the same temperature and humidity conditions, preferably at a temperature of 80° F. and 80% humidity.
(96) In some embodiments, the compositions of the present invention may cause at least a 70% reduction in hair frizz at 80° F. and 80% humidity relative to untreated otherwise identical frizzy hair under the same temperature and humidity conditions.
(97) In some embodiments, the compositions of the present invention may cause at least a 75% reduction in hair frizz at 80° F. and 80% humidity relative to untreated otherwise identical frizzy hair under the same temperature and humidity conditions.
(98) In some embodiments, the compositions of the present invention may cause at least an 80% reduction in hair frizz at 80° F. and 80% humidity relative to untreated otherwise identical frizzy hair under the same temperature and humidity conditions.
(99) In some embodiments, the compositions of the present invention may cause at least an 85% reduction in hair frizz at 80° F. and 80% humidity relative to untreated otherwise identical frizzy hair under the same temperature and humidity conditions.
(100) In some embodiments, the compositions of the present invention may cause at least a 90% reduction in hair frizz at 80° F. and 80% humidity relative to untreated otherwise identical frizzy hair under the same temperature and humidity conditions.
(101) In some embodiments, the compositions of the present invention may cause at least a 95% reduction in hair frizz at 80° F. and 80% humidity relative to untreated otherwise identical frizzy hair under the same temperature and humidity conditions.
(102) In the some embodiments of the present invention there is provided a method of reducing or preventing hair frizz, comprising the steps:
(103) I) applying to hair a composition as described herein; and
(104) II) distributing said composition along a plurality of hair shafts.
(105) In another embodiment of the present invention there is provided the use of a composition as described herein to reduce hair frizz.
(106) In a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a method of reducing or preventing hair frizz, comprising the steps:
(107) I) applying to hair a composition as described herein; and
(108) II) distributing said composition along a plurality of hair shafts;
(109) wherein the reduction in hair frizz is measured relative to untreated frizzy hair under the same temperature and humidity conditions.
(110) In a preferred embodiment the present invention provides the use of a composition as described herein to reduce hair frizz; wherein the reduction in hair frizz is measured relative to untreated frizzy hair under the same temperature and humidity conditions.
(111) The further examples provided below are intended to illustrate various embodiments of the invention, and are not intended to limit the scope of any claim. Hence it is the claims alone that define the scope of the invention, including any equivalents thereof.
(112) In one example the invention is directed to a leave-in anti-frizz cationic oil-in-water emulsion comprising a) a first component comprising at least 3.0%, by weight, of a polysiloxane fluid component selected from one or more of: i) an amodimethicone component, and ii) a polysiloxane component comprising a plurality of hindered amine side chains; b) a second component comprising one or more of: i) a fatty alcohol, ii) a fatty quaternium salt, and iii) a fatty amine.
(113) Suitable fatty quaternary ammonium salts, include but are not limited to: cetrimonium chloride, stearalkonim chloride, behentrimonium chloride (also known as docosyltrimethylammonium chloride), behentrimonium methosulfate, dicetyldimonium chloride (also known as diceyl dimethyl ammonium chloride), hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, ricinoleamidopropyltrimonim chloride ricinoleamidopropyltrimonim ethosulfate, ricinoleamidopropyltrimonim methosulfate, saffloweramidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate, quaternized stearamidopropyl amine, and the like and mixture thereof.
(114) Fatty alcohols are commonly used in the oil phase of cationic oil-in-water emulsions. They, along with the fatty quaternium salt(s), provide enhanced combing and silky hair feel, and also contribute to the viscosity of the emulsion. Suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
(115) Fatty alcohol derivatives, such as esterification products of a fatty alcohol and a polyethylene glycol (e.g., the Laureth, Trideceth and Pareth “PEGylated” products), may often be used in water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion as an emulsifier, solubilizing agent and a non-ionic surfactant.
(116) In some cases, a water-soluble thickener may be used to control the viscosity of the emulsion to provide both an acceptable viscosity and enhance the stability of the emulsion. Suitable water soluble thickeners include, cellulose-based thickeners, guar gum, cassia gum, locust bean gum, xanthan gum, acacia senegal gum, caesalpina spinosa gum, clays such as silica, bentonite, and magnesium aluminum silicate), acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylates copolymers, derivatized and underivatized Carbomers, organically modified clays, such as quaternized clays, and the like, and mixtures thereof. In one example the invention is directed to a water-containing cationic emulsion comprising: water, a fatty quaternized salt, a fatty alcohol, a ethoxalated fatty alcohol, a phenyl-modified silicone, a carrier containing an alcohol, volatile silicone and/or a volatile hydrocarbon; a dimethicone having a viscosity of between about 1 cSt (centistokes) and about 5000 cSt; an alkylsiloxysilicate such as trimethylsiloxysilicate; and a propoxytetramethyl piperidinyl dimethicone component, preferably having a viscosity of from about 200 cSt to about 100,000 cSt. Such an emulsion is suitable for use as a leave-in anti-frizz conditioner or a combing creme.
(117) In this example, the invention is directed to a water-containing cationic emulsion that provides greater than 70%, or 75%, or 80% reduction of hair frizz caused by high humidity, said composition comprising an emulsion containing an anti-fizz component selected from the group consisting of: greater than 3%, or greater than about 3.1%, or greater than about 3.2%, or greater than about 3.3%, or greater than about 3.4%, or greater than about 3.5%, or greater than about 4%, or greater than about 5%, or greater than about 10%, or greater than about 15%, by weight, of a propoxytetramethyl piperidinyl dimethicone component. Generally, but not invariably, the upper concentration range limit of the anti-fizz component (e.g., an amodimethicone or a polysiloxane component comprising a plurality of hindered amine side chains) is about 20%, or about 18%, or abut 15%, or about 12%, or about 10%, or about 8%, by weight.
(118) Additional examples are disclosed below; a person of ordinary skill in the art will, in light of such disclosure, be immediately aware of numerous additional examples within the scope of the claims.
EXAMPLES
(119) In all examples given below, amounts of the various formulation components are given in weight percent, unless specifically indicated otherwise.
(120) High Humidity Frizz Control Test Method
(121) Approximately 1.5 grams (weight of the hair) curly hair (Brazilian) [International Hair Importers; 8729 Myrtle Ave; Glendale, N.Y. 11385] is pre-washed 2× with a 10% by weight SLES-2 (sodium lauryl ethoxy sulfate having an average of 2 moles of ethylene oxide) solution in water. The wet hair tresses are hung overnight in a temperature/humidity chamber set at 80° F./80% relative humidity (RH).
(122) Tresses are then removed from the chamber, coded and photos are taken with a high-resolution camera. Pictures are used as a baseline for initial frizz value analysis using image analysis software permitting numerical analysis of the optical properties of curly, frizzy, and African hair types, and measurement of hair fiber alignment with 2-D Fourier transform. [Image-Pro Plus® version 7.0; Media Cybernetics, Inc., 4340 East-West Highway, Suite 400, Bethesda, Md. 20814].
(123) After the pictures are taken, tresses are pre-wet under running water for 10 seconds and towel dried. 50 μl of each test formulation is hand-applied to the tress from the root end down. The test formulation is distributed as evenly as possible along the hair.
(124) After the application of a test formulation, the tresses are hung in the humidity chamber set at 80° F. (27° C.)/80% RH for 6 hours.
(125) Post-treatment photos of the hair are taken. Pre- and post-treatment photos are used in conjunction with the Image Pro Plus® software. Photos are used to compare these images and analyze the reduction in frizz values in the treated tresses (frizz protection) vs. the frizz values of the untreated, humidified tresses to obtain numerical values for percent frizz reduction.
Example A
(126) Formulations of some commercially available anti-frizz products were purchased and evaluated for frizz control and are represented in Table A, below.
(127) TABLE-US-00001 TABLE A Formulation Formulation Formulation A Serum B Serum C Serum Cyclopenta- Cyclopenta- Cyclopenta- siloxane siloxane siloxane Dimethicone Dimethiconol Dimethiconol Capric and Mineral oil Mineral oil Caprylic Triglycerides Dimethiconol Fragrance and Fragrance and Fragrance and other inactive other inactive other inactive ingredients* ingredients* ingredients* % Frizz 75% 70% 68% Reduction % Solids 35.47% 14.46% 15.54% Formulation E Formulation D Water Based Anhydrous Spray Emulsion Spray Alcohol Water Cyclopenta- Cetearyl Alcohol siloxane Bis-phenylpropyl Behentrimonium Dimethicone Chloride Dimethicone Propylene Glycol C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Cyclomethicone Fragrance and Fragrance and other inactive other inactive ingredients ingredients % Frizz .sup. 30% .sup. 17% Reduction % Solids 6.27% 5.30%
(128) Formulation A contains capric/caprylic triglycerides, a purified, fractionated derivative of coconut oil. Formulations B and C include mineral oil. As discussed previously, oils have both practical and aesthetic disadvantages. They tend to stain fabrics (such as clothing, sheets, pillowcases), have a heavy feel and may leave hair with an undesired slicked, “wet” appearance. Only Formulation E is water-based, and this formulation, which is marketed as an anti-frizz formulation, is actually unable to show frizz reduction greater than 17% activity.
Example 1
(129) Two emulsion formulations were made as follows:
(130) TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 1 Ingredient A wt % B wt % dimethicone (60,000 cSt) 50.0 — propoxytetramethyl — 50.0 piperidinyl dimethicone Laureth-4* 3.0 3.0 Laureth-23* 3.0 3.0 water 44.0 44.0 *Laureth-4 and Laureth-23 are synthetic polymers composed of lauryl alcohol and PEG (polyethylene glycol); they differ by the number of ethylene oxide residues per mole.
(131) From each of these formulations test anti-frizz formulations were made as follows:
(132) TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 2 Ingredient Test 1 wt % Test 2 wt % Deionized Water 90.0 90.0 Emulsion A from Table 1 10.0 — Emulsion B from Table 1 — 10.0
(133) Three substantially identical frizzy hair tresses of Brazilian origin were washed as set forth above in the description of the High Humidity Frizz Control Test Method and Formulations Test 1 (containing 5 wt % dimethicone) and Test 2 (containing 5 wt % propoxytetramethyl piperidinyl dimethicone) were then applied and distributed to each of two of these tresses while the hair was wet; the third tress was untreated. The three tresses were hung overnight in a temperature/humidity chamber set at 80° F./80% relative humidity (RH), and the tresses were assessed then assessed as set forth in the description of the High Humidity Frizz Control Test Method for percent frizz reduction as compared to the untreated control tress (
Example 2
(134) Two test formulations (Test Formulation A and Test Formulation B) containing propoxytetramethyl piperidinyl dimethicone were made as follows:
(135) TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 3 Ingredient A wt % B wt % Water 90 75 HNH-HV 50% active emulsion* 10 0 Microsil ® HAF** 0 25 *HNH-HV emulsion consists of 50% propoxytetramethyl piperidinyl dimethicone in water emulsified with Laureth-4 and Laureth-23. **Microsil HAF consists of a microemulsion of 20% propoxytetramethyl piperidinyl dimethicone in water, with Trideceth-6 and C11-15 Pareth-7.
(136) These test formulations were applied to frizzy hair and the resulting tresses were subjected to High Humidity Frizz Control Test Method, then the frizz reduction was determined as described in Example 1.
(137) TABLE-US-00005 Test Form. A Test Form. B Frizz reduction 85% 81% Viscosity ~75 cP ~50 cP
Example 3
(138) Cationic oil-in-water formulations are made as shown in Table 4, below. Ingredients are given in weight percent; unless otherwise indicated, all concentration percentages given in this patent application are weight percentages. Generally speaking, cationic oil-in-water emulsions contain water, a cationic fatty quaternium emulsifier and an oil phase. The cationic oil-in-water emulsions are formed by the following processes: 1) Water is added to a container suitable to allow the subsequent addition of the oil phase. Add and mix together the hydrophilic ingredients of the formula in the water until uniform. If necessary to solubilize all the hydrophilic components, the water phase is heated to a temperature slightly higher than the melting temperature of the cationic emulsifier or the highest melting point material of the composition. 2) The cationic emulsifier, the hydrophobic ingredients and the amine functional silicone frizz control ingredient is added to the water, while maintaining a temperature of slightly higher than the melting point of highest melting point ingredient. The amine functional silicone frizz control ingredient may have a viscosity based on its intended use; thus, for example, if the end product is a lotion, the viscosity may be about 3000 cP; if the end product is a cream the viscosity may be about 10,000 cP; if the end product is a paste, the viscosity may be about 20,000 cP or more. 3) The mixture is cooled to a suitable temperature room temperature based on the temperature tolerance of the additional ingredients; some ingredients like volatile components, including fragrances; preservatives, or any material that breaks down at elevated temperature can be or should added after cool down. 4) The pH of the final product is then adjusted to a suitable or desired pH (usually between 3.5-5.5).
(139) TABLE-US-00006 TABLE 4 Formulation Ingredient 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Water 83.2 70.7 80.7 88.2 86.5 72.5 77.5 Behentrimonium 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 1.00 1.00 1.00 Metosulfate Ceteareth-20 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Cetearyl Alcohol 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Propoxytetramethyl 2.50 5.00 5.00 7.5 6 3 3 Piperidinyl Dimethicone Cyclopentasiloxane 10.00 Cyclopentasiloxane 20.00 (and) Dimethicone blend Trimethylsiloxysilicate 10.00 10 Dimethicone 100 cSt 6 Dimethicone (and) 15 Dimethiconol Phenyltrimethicone 10
(140) Each of the formulations 1-7 are found to have frizz reduction activity, when applied to tresses assessed using the High Humidity Frizz Control Test Method, have a frizz reduction activity greater than 70% as compared to an untreated control.
(141) In separate tests, hair treated by combing each of Formulations 1 through 6 through the hair are found to show at least 70% frizz reduction relative to untreated tresses.
Example 4
(142) Table 5 shows an set of anti-frizz compositions formulated as leave-in cationic emulsion sprays, having a reduced viscosity suitable for spraying relative to the combing creams of Formulations 1-7. This reduced viscosity is accomplished by reducing the use of fatty ingredients. Such compositions are not only suitable for use in a pump-style, non-aerosol spray applicator, but also as an aerosol by use of a propellant. Generally, the method of making such sprays is otherwise similar to the method of making the compositions of Formulations 1-7.
(143) TABLE-US-00007 TABLE 5 Formulation Ingredient 8 9 10 11 12 Water 73.2 68.2 88.2 68.95 77.7 Behentrimonium 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Metosulfate Ceteareth-20 1 1 1 1.25 1.5 Propoxytetramethyl Piperidinyl 25 30 10 25 10 Dimethicone (and) Trideth-6 (and) C11-15 Pareth-7 20% active amine Dimethicone (and) Laureth-3 (and) 5 10 Laureth-23 50% active dimethicone
(144) Hair lightly sprayed, then combed with one of Formulations 8 through 12 shows at least 70% frizz reduction relative to untreated tresses.
Example 5
(145) Table 6 shows examples of leave-in, non-aerosol anti-frizz hair-styling mousse formulations. Each formulation is made by combining and mixing ingredients together in the order given:
(146) TABLE-US-00008 TABLE 6 Formulation Ingredient 13 14 15 Water 62 67 72 Glycerin 2 2 2 Cocamidopropyl betaine 1 1 1 20% Propoxytetramethyl Piperidinyl 25 30 10 Dimethicone in emulsion with Trideth-6 and C11-15 Pareth-7 50% Dimethicone (and) Laureth-4 10 15 (and) Laureth-23
(147) Cocamidopropyl betaine is a quaternary ammonium fatty carboxylic acid salt, used as surfactant and a foam agent.
(148) Trideth-6 is a polyethylene glycol (PEG) ether of tridecyl alcohol, with 6 units of ethylene oxide in the molecule.
(149) C11-15 Paneth-7 is a polyethylene glycol ether of a mixture of synthetic C11-15 fatty alcohols with an average of 7 moles of ethylene oxide.
(150) Hair treated, then combed with one of Formulations 13 through 15 shows at least 70% frizz reduction relative to untreated tresses.
Example 6
(151) The following leave-in, anti-frizz hair-styling mousse formulations are for use as a concentrate for aerosol use. The ingredients are added and mixed in the order presented in Table 7.
(152) TABLE-US-00009 TABLE 7 Formulation Ingredient 16 17 18 Water 89.2 87.2 84.2 Cocamidopropyl betaine 2 2 2 *Polyquaternium-11 1 1 1 **Ammonium acrylates copolymer 2.8 2.8 2.8 Cyclopentasiloxane 2.5 Propoxytetramethyl Piperidinyl 2.5 3.5 5.0 Dimethicone Dimethicone (20 cSt) 3.5 3.5 *Polyquaternium-11 is a quaternary ammonium polymer formed by the reaction of diethylsulfate and a copolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone and dimethyl aminoethylmethacrylate. **Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer is an ammonium salt of 2-methyl-2-propenoic acid polymer conjugated with 2-propenoic acid or one or more of their simple esters. It is an antistatic agent, a film forming agent and a viscosity-controlling product.
(153) Hair treated, then combed with one of Formulations 16 through 18 shows at least 70% frizz reduction relative to untreated tresses.
(154) Non-Ionic Oil-In-Water Emulsions
(155) The oil-in-water emulsions of the present invention do not necessarily need to be cationic emulsions. Nonionic oil-in-water emulsions can also be used as a delivery vehicle or carrier for formulations of the invention. The advantage of these non-ionic emulsions is that a high viscosity amino functional silicone comes in direct contact with the hair and forms a better film on the hair to provide a higher level of frizz control.
(156) Broadly speaking, the nonionic oil-in-water emulsions of the present invention contain water, a nonionic silicone emulsifier, and a silicone phase, as well as optional addition ingredients.
(157) In a general scheme, nonionic oil-in-water emulsions may be formed by
(158) 1) Phase A: Adding the hydrophobic ingredients to a suitable container which is large enough to allow the later addition of the water phase ingredients. The hydrophobic ingredients are heated to a temperature slightly higher than the melting temperature of the ingredient having the highest melting temperature if require to melt solid ingredients, and mixed.
(159) 2) Phase B: In a separate container, mixing together the water and any other hydrophilic ingredients until uniform.
(160) 3) About 10% (wt) of Phase B is added and mixed with the hydrophobic ingredients of Phase A to form a uniform, thick water-in-oil paste.
(161) 4) The remaining aqueous hydrophilic phase is then slowly added to the water-in-oil emulsion with adequate mixing to invert the emulsion from a water-in-oil emulsion to a nonionic oil-in-water emulsion.
(162) Suitable nonionic emulsifiers include, but not limited to ethoxylated aliphatic alcohols, secondary alcohol ethoxylates, polyoxyethylene surfactants, carboxylic esters, polyethylene glycol esters, anhydrosorbitol esters and derivatives, glycol esters of fatty acids, carboxylic amides, monoalkanolamine condensates, polyoxyethylene fatty acid amides and the like.
(163) Fatty alcohols are commonly used in the oil phase of nonionic oil-in-water emulsions. They provide enhanced combing and hair feel and also contribute to the viscosity of the emulsion. Suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, biphenyl alcohol, non-ionic derivatives thereof (e.g., those in which the fatty alcohol is conjugated to a non-polar polymeric group such as polyethylene glycol) and mixtures of any two or more of these.
(164) In some cases, a water soluble thickener may be used to control the viscosity of the emulsion to provide both an acceptable viscosity and enhance the stability of the emulsion. These ingredients are typically added to the water phase, however in some formulations it may be better suitable to add them to the oil phase and hydrate upon the addition of the water phase. Suitable water soluble thickeners include, cellulosic thickeners, guar gum, cassia gum, locust bean gum, xanthan gum, acacia senegal gum, caesalpina spinosa gum, clays and organically modified clays, carbomers, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers, polyacrylamide, polyacrylamide/polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, acrylamide/ammonium acrylate copolymer, polyacrylate-13, sodium acrylate/acryloyldimethyltaurate/dimethylacrylamide crosspolymer, acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, sodium acrylate/acryloyldimethyltaurate/simethylacrylamide crosspolymer and the like.
(165) One or more additional components may be added to any of the compositions of the present invention. For example, such additives may, without limitation, include one or more of the following:
(166) Detangling aids including: Non-fatty quaternary ammonium conditioning and detangling agents including, but not limited to, polyquaterniums, cationic guar, cationic cassia, cationic starch and the like and mixtures thereof; Oils and hydrocarbons including but not limited to petroleum-derived oils (such as mineral oil), isohexadecane, isododecane, synthetic oils, natural and synthetic oils and derivatives thereof, of avocado oil, coconut oil, olive oil, safflower oil, grape seed oil, castor oil , palm kernel oil, lanolin and the like and mixtures thereof; Fatty esters, including but not limited to. isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, diisopropyl adipate, isocetyl stearate, cetyl esters, ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, and the like and mixtures thereof; Organically substituted silicone polymers including, but not limited to, alkyl functional siloxanes, glycol functional siloxanes, phenyl functional siloxanes, vinyl silicones, dimethicone crosspolymers, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers, dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers, vinyl dimethicone/lauryl dimethicone crosspolymers, lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone/bis-vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, alkyl silicones, stearoxytrimethylsilane, ethylene-dimethicone copolymer, polyethylsiloxanes, alkyl silicones including caprylyl methicone, lauryl methicone and stearoxymethicone and the like and mixtures thereof.
(167) Additional additives may be added to these formulations to provide other hair care benefits without effecting the performance of the invention. Such additives may include: Hair shine ingredients, including but not limited to, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone, caprylic/capric triglycerides, mineral or natural oils, alkyl benzoates and the like. When oils or triglycerides are used in the present composition, their concentration is very preferably maintained low enough (e.g., less than about 10% or less than about 5% or less than about 2% or less than about 1.5%) to add shine to the hair without rendering the hair greasy or wet; Humectants, including glycerin, hyaluronic acid and its salts, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and the like and mixtures thereof; Sunscreen ingredients such as, without limitation, one or more of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and organic sunscreens to protect the hair from sun bleaching, discoloration or fading; such as for color-treated hair and to preserve hair color; Formulation aesthetic modifiers may include thickener components, fragrance components, pH adjustment components, plasticizer components, appearance modifiers or anti-oxidant components. Such aesthetic modifier components may help to make delivery of the functional ingredients more acceptable by, for example, helping the active ingredients spread, diluting the active ingredients, stabilizing the active ingredients, and/or improving the look and feel of the composition when applied to the hair. Other components effective in making the composition appealing to the consumer, such as (without limitation) essential oils, botanicals, scents, nucleic acids, specialty extracts, proteins, amino acids, algae derivatives, amino acids, and vitamins and the like.
Example 7
(168) A set of nonionic emulsions are prepared according to the general method set forth above, by inversion of a water-in-oil emulsion to an oil-in-water emulsion.
(169) TABLE-US-00010 TABLE 8 Non-Ionic Emulsion Conditioners Formulation Ingredient 19 20 21 22 PHASE A (silicone phase) Cyclopentasiloxane 10.00 Dimethicone (5 cSt) 15.00 10.00 15.00 Propoxytetramethyl Piperidinyl 5.00 5.00 7.50 5.00 Dimethicone (90,000 cSt) Cyclomethicone and 10.00 trimethylsiloxysilicate Dimethicone and 10.00 10.00 trimethylsiloxysilicate Cetearyl Alcohol 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Laureth-4 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Laureth-23 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer PHASE B DI Water 68.65 63.65 76.15 63.65
(170) Hair treated, then combed with one of Formulations 19 through 12 shows at least 70% frizz reduction relative to untreated tresses.
(171) TABLE-US-00011 TABLE 9 Leave-In Nonionic Oil-In-Water Emulsion Sprayable Conditioners Formulations Ingredient 23 24 25 26 PHASE A Cyclopentasiloxane 10.00 Dimethicone (5 cSt) 15.00 10.00 15.00 Propoxytetramethyl Piperidinyl 5.00 5.00 7.50 5.00 Dimethicone (90,000 cSt) Cyclomethicone and 10.00 trimethylsiloxysilicate (100 cps) Dimethicone and 10.00 10.00 trimethylsiloxysilicate (500 cps) Cetearyl Alcohol 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Laureth-4 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 Laureth-23 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 PHASE B DI Water 69.00 64.00 76.00 64.00
(172) Hair treated, then combed with one of Formulations 23 through 26 shows at least 70% frizz reduction relative to untreated tresses.
(173) Water-in-Oil Emulsions Anti-Frizz Leave in Conditioners/Combing Cremes
(174) Water-in-oil leave-in conditioners have an advantage over oil-in-water emulsions conditioners in that they deposit the hydrophobic combing and anti-fizz components more directly and completely onto the surface of the hair, which results in a more uniform film of these ingredients on the hair.
(175) Generally speaking, nonionic water-in-oil emulsions contain water, a nonionic silicone emulsifier, and a silicone phase. The nonionic water-in-oil emulsions are formed as follows:
(176) 1) Phase A: Add the hydrophobic ingredients to a suitable container which is large enough to allow the addition of the water phase. Heat to a temperature slightly greater than the melting point of the ingredient having the highest melting point. Mix until uniform.
(177) 2) Phase B: In a separate container, mix together the water and hydrophilic ingredients until uniform.
(178) 3) Slowly add Phase B to Phase A using homogenization to drive down the droplet size of the water to 1 μm or less and mix until uniform.
Example 7
(179) Table 10 shows exemplary formulations for a non-ionic water-in-oil leave-in conditioner.
(180) TABLE-US-00012 TABLE 10 Formulations Ingredients 35 36 37 38 39 40 Phase A Cyclopentasiloxane 10.00 10.00 10.00 (and) PEG/PPG-18/ 18 Dimethicone Dimethicone (and) 10.00 10.00 10.00 PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone Cyclopentasiloxane 10.00 10.00 6.00 10.00 5.00 10.00 Propoxytetramethyl 5.00 5.00 7.50 6.50 3.50 2.50 Piperidinyl Dimethicone (90,000 cSt) Cyclopentasiloxane 5.00 5.00 4.00 5.00 5.00 7.00 (and) Dimethiconol (~5000 cps) Trimetylsiloxysilicate 3.00 3.00 5.00 5.00 Phase B Water 65.50 65.50 71.00 67.00 70.00 64.00 Sodium Chloride 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50
(181) Hair treated, then combed with one of Formulations 35 through 40 shows at least 70% frizz reduction relative to untreated tresses.
Example 8
(182) The formulations in Table 11 are also for use as non-ionic water-in-oil leave-in conditioners. These formulations are made in a similar manner, however in these water-in-oil emulsions the final homogenization step is not required.
(183) TABLE-US-00013 TABLE 11 Formulations Ingredients 41 42 43 Phase A Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone 3.00 3.50 4.00 PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer PEG-10 Dimethicone 0.50 1.00 1.50 Cyclopentasiloxane 10.00 10.00 15.00 Propoxytetramethyl Piperidinyl 3.00 5.00 7.50 Dimethicone Dimethicone 5 cSt 5.00 Cyclopentasiloxane (and) 2.50 Dimethiconol Cyclopentasiloxane (and) 6.00 Trimetylsiloxysilicate Phase B Water 76.50 74.80 68.00 Sodium Chloride 1.00 0.50 1.50 Sodium Citrate 0.20
(184) Hair treated, then combed with one of Formulations 41 through 43 shows at least 70% frizz reduction relative to untreated tresses.
(185) In view of the present disclosure, those of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate that any of the presently disclosed embodiments of the invention can provide frizz control to hair as a water based hair styling product when such a product is formulated with at least 2.5%, by weight, of a polysiloxane fluid component selected from one or more of:
(186) i) an amodimethicone component, and
(187) ii) a polysiloxane component comprising a plurality of hindered amine side chains.
(188) Hair styling products come in multiple formulation types, including gel, creams, lotions, pastes, putties, sprays, mousses and the like. Some of these products may also contain a hair fixative. Hair fixatives are polymers which impart hair holding or style retention properties by “gluing” hair fibers together. Suitable fixative polymers contained in such products may include: polyvinyl pyrrolidone (PVP) and derivatives thereof, polyquaternium polymers and derivatives thereof, acrylate copolymers and derivatives thereof, polyacrylate polymers and derivatives thereof, polyacrylate crosspolymers and derivatives thereof, vinyl alcohol (VP) polymers and derivatives thereof, VP copolymers and derivatives thereof, mixtures containing two or more of these components, and the like.
(189) Although aspects of the present invention have been described with reference to the disclosed embodiments, one skilled in the art will readily appreciate that the specific examples disclosed are only illustrative of these aspects and in no way limit the present invention. Various modifications can be made without departing from the spirit of the present invention. Each and every feature described herein, and each and every combination of two or more of such features, is included within the scope of the present invention provided that the features included in such a combination are not mutually inconsistent. Furthermore, any composition or apparatus of the invention will be understood to comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of one or more element of a claim, and additionally, each and every element not specifically included as an element of a claim shall be considered to have basis herein to be specifically excluded from that claim, in a negative limitation thereof.
(190) Any and all patents, publications, or patent applications cited in this specification are hereby incorporated by reference as part of this specification in its entirety.