Three-phase cosmetic compositions comprising nacres

Abstract

This invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium containing aqueous phase, an oily phase and nacre particles, constituted of a substrate partially or totally coated with one or more layers.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium containing: (1) an aqueous phase; (2) an oily phase with a density less than that of the aqueous phase; and (3) nacre particles, dispersed in the aqueous phase, constituted of a substrate partially or totally coated with one or more layers, with at least one of the layers being a layer of metal oxide, said nacre particles being chosen from the following particles: either nacre particles of which the average size is between 2 m and 1,000 m, wherein the substrate is mica or alumina, said particles do not comprise a silica layer on the surface, and with the proviso that, when the layer of metal oxide comprises more than 30% by weight of titanium oxide with respect to the total weight of the particles, the average size of said particles is between 2 m and 20 m; or nacre particles wherein the substrate is chosen from the comprising silica, borosilicate, mica and alumina, and when the substrate is mica or alumina, the nacre particles comprise a layer of silica on the surface, and when the metal oxide is an iron oxide, the iron oxide content is less than 50% by weight with respect to the total weight of the particles, said cosmetic composition comprising from 5% to 85% by weight of oily phase with respect to the total weight of said composition, and wherein said composition comprises at rest three visually separate phases.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the nacre particles have an average size between 2 m and 1,000 m, the substrate being mica or alumina, at least one of the layers being a layer of metal oxide, said particles do not comprise a silica layer on the surface, and with the proviso that, when the layer of metal oxide comprises more than 30% by weight of titanium oxide with respect to the total weight of the particles, the average size of said particles is between 2 m and 20 m, said cosmetic composition comprising from 5% to 70% by weight of oily phase with respect to the total weight of said composition.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein the substrate of the particles is natural or synthetic mica.

4. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the nacre particles are particles wherein at least one of the layers is a layer of metal oxide, and the substrate is chosen from the group comprising silica, borosilicate, mica and alumina, and wherein, when the substrate is mica or alumina, the nacre particles comprise a layer of silica on the surface, and when the metal oxide is an iron oxide, the iron oxide content is less than 50% by weight with respect to the total weight of the particles, said cosmetic composition comprising from 5% to 85% by weight of oily phase with respect to the total weight of said composition.

5. Cosmetic composition according to claim 4, wherein the substrate is borosilicate.

6. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising 0.1% to 30% by weight of nacre particles in relation to the total weight of said composition.

7. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the metal oxides are chosen from the group comprising titanium oxide, iron oxides, chromium oxides, tin oxides, alumina oxides and mixtures thereof.

8. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the substrate of the particles is coated with a single layer of metal oxide or several separate layers of metal oxide.

9. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the nacre particles further comprise at least one layer constituted of bismuth oxychloride, ultramarine blue, Prussian blue, manganese violet, cochineal carmine and mixtures thereof.

10. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous composition comprises 5% to 80% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of said composition.

11. Cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein the aqueous composition comprises 5% to 80% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of said composition.

12. Cosmetic composition according to claim 4, wherein the aqueous composition comprises 10% to 80% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of said composition.

13. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase comprises at least one organic solvent miscible in water.

14. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the oily phase comprises at least one oil chosen from the group comprised of hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils and mixtures thereof.

15. Non-therapeutic makeup and/or skincare method comprising a step for applying at least one layer of a composition according to claim 1 onto the skin.

16. Method for coating keratin fibers comprising a step for applying a cosmetic composition according to claim 1 onto said keratin fibers.

17. Cosmetic composition according to claim 2, comprising 0.1% to 30% by weight of nacre particles in relation to the total weight of said composition.

18. Cosmetic composition according to claim 3, comprising 0.1% to 30% by weight of nacre particles in relation to the total weight of said composition.

19. Cosmetic composition according to claim 4, comprising 0.1% to 30% by weight of nacre particles in relation to the total weight of said composition.

20. Cosmetic composition according to claim 5, comprising 0.1% to 30% by weight of nacre particles in relation to the total weight of said composition.

Description

EXAMPLES

(1) Evaluation test of the Agglomeration of Nacres at Rest

(2) In order to evaluate the agglomeration of nacres at rest, the following test is carried out in the framework of this invention:

(3) A sample of 20 g of the composition is introduced into a bottle of about 30 mL (diameter 2.5 cm, height 8 cm).

(4) In order to guarantee that the sample taken is true to the composition, it is conditioned after having homogenized the composition under shaking. The sample can as such be taken just after manufacture.

(5) The bottle is allowed to rest for 24 hours in a vertical position, then it is agitated 10 times by energetic and vertical movements.

(6) The agglomeration of the nacres is then judged: If there is a complete re-homogenization of the nacres in the entire composition, the latter is in accordance with the invention, If the nacres remain agglomerated at the bottom of the bottle, or if the homogenization is only partial then the composition is not in accordance with the invention.

Examples 1 to 3

Influence of the Nature of the Substrate of the Nacre

(7) Examples 1 to 3 make it possible to show the influence of the nature of the substrate of the nacre (particles (P1)) on the phenomenon of agglomeration at rest.

(8) TABLE-US-00001 mass % A Water 10.50 Absolute ethanol 16.8998 Propylene glycol 25.20 Glycerol 16.90 D&C Red No. 4 0.0001 B Isononyl isononanoate 20.00 D&C Violet No. 2 0.0001 C Nacre* 10.50 TOTAL 100% *The nature of the nacre is mentioned in the table hereinbelow

(9) Procedure

(10) The compositions of the examples 1 to 3 are prepared according to the protocol described hereinafter.

(11) The aqueous phase A is prepared separately by weighing the constituents in a beaker then by stirring using a bar magnet until homogenization.

(12) The oily phase B is prepared separately in the same way.

(13) The aqueous phase A is then introduced into the main beaker that is stirred using a dispersing turbine-Raynerie at a speed of 500 rpm.

(14) The nacre (phase C) is then introduced in the aqueous phase under stirring so as to correctly homogenize.

(15) Then the oily phase B is introduced into the beaker by maintaining under stirring.

(16) The composition is stirred again for 15 min before conditioning.

(17) TABLE-US-00002 Examples Nacres Structure Example 1 Mica-titanium oxide-brown Mica/TiO.sub.2/Iron ox. (Invention) iron oxide sold under the (82/14/4) (particles reference Pearlescent Pigment (P1)) Flonac MX 30 C by Sudarshan Chemical Example 2 Silica-titanium oxide-tin SiO.sub.2/TiO.sub.2/SnO.sub.2 (invention) oxide sold under the reference (88/10/2) (particles Xirona Magic Mauve by Merck (P2)) Example 3 Calcium aluminum borosilicate- Borosilicate/TiO.sub.2/SnO.sub.2 (invention) titanium oxide-tin oxide sold (78/21.5/0.5) (particles under the reference Metashine (P2)) MC1080RR by Nippon Sheet Glass

(18) It was therefore observed that nacre particles (P1) as described hereinabove in the description make it possible to obtain a composition in accordance with the invention, i.e. a three-phase composition at rest. In addition, in these compositions, the nacres are easily re-homogenized after stirring.

(19) When the substrate is different from that of particles (P1) of the invention, this homogenization of nacres is not obtained in a manner that is as satisfactory.

(20) The particles (P2) make it possible to obtain three-phase compositions but the compositions obtained are less advantageous in terms of properties of re-homogenization of nacres. These particles however make it possible to obtain advantageous compositions in terms of adhesion to the walls (cf. examples 15 and 16).

Examples 4 to 9

Variation in the Size

(21) Examples 4 to 9 show the invention for nacres (P1) which contain a percentage of titanium dioxide less than or equal to 30%.

(22) TABLE-US-00003 mass % A Water 10.50 Absolute ethanol 16.8998 Propylene glycol 25.20 Glycerol 16.90 D&C Red No. 4 0.0001 B Isononyl isononanoate 20.00 D&C Violet No. 2 0.0001 C Nacre 10.50 TOTAL 100%

(23) TABLE-US-00004 Average Examples Nacres Structure size % TiO.sub.2 Aspect Example 4 Mica-brown iron oxide sold under the Mica/Iron. ox. 8 0 Easy (Invention) reference Pearlescent Pigment (43/57) homogenization Prestige soft bronze by of the nacres after Sudarshan Chemical stirring Example 5 Mica-titanium oxide-brown iron oxide Mica/TiO.sub.2/Iron. ox./SnO.sub.2 8 20.2 Easy (Invention) sold under the reference Pearlescent (41.8/20.2/37.8/0.20) homogenization Pigment Prestige soft beige by of the nacres after Sudarshan Chemical stirring Example 6 Synthetic mica (fluorphlogopite)-brown Synthetic mica/Iron. ox. 45 0 Easy (Invention) iron oxide sold under the reference (54.5/45.5) homogenization Sunshine Glitter Russet by of the nacres after Sun Chemical stirring Example 7 Mica-brown iron oxide sold under the Mica/Iron. ox. 80 0 Easy (Invention) reference Pearlescent Pigment Flonac (83/17) homogenization MX 30 C by of the nacres after Sudarshan Chemical stirring Example 8 Mica-titanium oxide-brown iron oxide Mica/TiO.sub.2/Iron. ox. 97 14.0 Easy (Invention) sold under the reference Pearlescent (82/14/4) homogenization Pigment Flonac MX 30 C by of the nacres after Sudarshan Chemical stirring Example 9 Synthetic mica (fluorphlogopite)- Synthetic mica/TiO.sub.2/Iron. ox. 230 14.5 Easy (Invention) titanium oxide-oxide-iron oxide sold (82/14.5/3.5) homogenization under the reference Sunshine Ultra of the nacres after Glitter Golden by stirring Sun Chemical

(24) Procedure

(25) The compositions of the examples 4 to 9 are prepared according to the protocol described hereinabove for the examples 1 to 3.

(26) Sensory Evaluation

(27) A panel of 4 women, aged 25 to 50, was asked to apply the example 4 as makeup on the face and the bust.

(28) The results of this evaluation show that the product procures a pleasing makeup result as it is hardly pearly, it does not feel greasy or sticky.

Examples 10 to 12

Influence of the Percentage of Titanium

(29) Examples 10 to 12 make it possible to show the influence of the size of the nacre (particles (P1)) when the percentage of titanium oxide of greater than 30%.

(30) TABLE-US-00005 mass % A Water 10.50 Absolute ethanol 16.8998 Propylene glycol 25.20 Glycerol 16.90 D&C Red No. 4 0.0001 B Isononyl isononanoate 20.00 D&C Violet No. 2 0.0001 C Nacre 10.50 TOTAL 100%

(31) TABLE-US-00006 Average Examples Nacres Structure size % TiO.sub.2 Aspect Example 10 Mica-titanium oxide sold under the reference Mica/TiO.sub.2/SnO.sub.2 12 68.0 Easy (Invention) Timiron silk green by Merck (31/68/1) homogenization of the nacres after stirring Example 11 Mica-titanium oxide-tin oxide sold under the Mica/TiO.sub.2/SnO.sub.2 22 43.6 Strong (Comparison) reference Flamenco Summit Red R30D by (55.9/43.6/0.50) agglomeration of BASF the nacres, homogenization is impossible Example 12 Mica-titanium oxide sold under the reference Mica/TiO.sub.2 45 36.0 Strong (Comparison) Flamenco Sparkle Green 820 J by BASF (64/36) agglomeration of the nacres, homogenization is impossible

(32) Procedure

(33) The compositions of the examples 10 to 12 are prepared according to the protocol described hereinabove for the examples 1 to 3.

(34) It was therefore observed that the nacre particles as described hereinabove in the description (containing more than 30% by weight of titanium dioxide but with a size less than 20 m) make it possible to obtain a composition in accordance with the invention, i.e. a three-phase composition at rest wherein the nacres are easily re-homogenized after stirring.

(35) When the content of titanium dioxide is greater than 30% by weight and the size of the particles is greater than 20 m, this homogenization of the nacres is not obtained in a satisfactory manner.

Examples 13 and 14

Variation in the Nature of the Oil

(36) Examples 13 and 14 show the invention for different oils.

(37) TABLE-US-00007 mass % A Water 10.50 Absolute ethanol 16.8998 Propylene glycol 25.20 Glycerol 16.90 D&C Red No. 4 0.0001 B Oil 20.00 D&C Violet No. 2 0.0001 C Mica-brown iron oxide 10.50 sold under the reference Pearlescent Pigment Flonac MX 30 C by Sudarshan Chemical TOTAL 100%

(38) TABLE-US-00008 Examples Oil Aspect Example 13 Dodecamethylpentasiloxane Easy homogenization of (Invention) the nacres Example 14 Octyldodecanol Easy homogenization of (Invention) the nacres

(39) Procedure

(40) The compositions of the examples 13 to 14 are prepared according to the protocol described hereinabove for the examples 1 to 3.

(41) It was observed that the change in the nature of the oil according to examples 13 and 14 makes it possible to obtain compositions in accordance with the invention.

(42) Evaluation Test of the Adherence of Nacres to the Walls

(43) In order to evaluate the adherence of nacres to the walls, the following test is carried out in the framework of this invention:

(44) A sample of 20 g of the composition is introduced into a glass bottle of about 30 mL (diameter 2.5 cm, height 8 cm).

(45) In order to guarantee that the sample taken is true to the composition, it is conditioned after having homogenized the composition under shaking. The sample can as such be taken just after manufacture.

(46) The bottle is allowed to rest for 24 hours in vertical position, before being evaluated.

(47) The cleanliness of the walls of the bottle is then judged: if the entire amount of the nacres is settled in the liquid medium, the latter is in accordance with the invention. if a portion of the nacres is fixed to the walls of the bottle, then the composition is not in accordance with the invention.

Examples 15 to 17

Influence of the Nature of the Substrate of the Nacre

(48) Examples 15 to 17 make it possible to show the influence of the nature of the substrate of the nacre (particles (P2)) on the phenomenon of adhesion to the walls.

(49) TABLE-US-00009 mass % A Water 10.50 Absolute ethanol 16.8998 Propylene glycol 25.20 Glycerol 16.90 D&C Red No. 4 0.0001 B Isononyl isononanoate 20.00 D&C Violet No. 2 0.0001 C Nacre 10.50 TOTAL 100%

(50) Procedure

(51) The aqueous phase A is prepared separately by weighing the constituents in a beaker then by stirring using a bar magnet until homogenization.

(52) The oily phase B is prepared separately in the same way.

(53) The aqueous phase A is then introduced into the main beaker that is stirred using a dispersing turbine-Raynerie at a speed of 500 rpm.

(54) The nacre (phase C) is then introduced in the aqueous phase under stirring so as to correctly homogenize.

(55) Then the oily phase B is introduced into the beaker by maintaining under stirring.

(56) The composition is stirred again for 15 min before conditioning.

(57) Adhesion of the Nacres to the Walls

(58) TABLE-US-00010 Examples Nacres Structure Aspect Example 15 Silica-titanium oxide-tin oxide sold under the SiO2/TiO.sub.2/SnO.sub.2 Clean walls, (invention) reference Xirona Magic Mauve by Merck (88/10/2) nacres settled in (particles the liquid (P2)) medium Example 16 Calcium aluminum borosilicate-titanium oxide-tin Borosilicate/TiO.sub.2/SnO.sub.2 Clean walls, (invention) oxide sold under the reference Metashine (78/21.5/0.5) nacres settled in (particles MC1080RR by Nippon Sheet Glass the liquid (P2)) medium Example 17 Mica-titanium oxide-brown iron oxide sold under Mica/TiO.sub.2/Iron ox. Presence of (invention - the reference Pearlescent Pigment Flonac MX 30 (82/14/4) nacres on the particles C by Sudarshan Chemical walls of the (P1)) bottle and in the liquid medium

(59) Examples 15 and 16 correspond to the particles (P2) of the examples 2 and 3 hereinabove and the example 17 corresponds to the particles (P1) of the example 1 hereinabove.

(60) It was therefore observed that nacre particles (P2) as described hereinabove in the description make it possible to obtain a composition in accordance with the invention, i.e. a three-phase composition at rest. In addition, in these compositions, the nacres are confined in the liquid medium and do not adhere to the walls of the bottle containing them.

(61) When the substrate is different from that of the particles (P2) of the invention, the compositions are not as satisfactory in that the particles of nacres adhere to the walls of the bottle.

(62) The particles (P1) make it possible to obtain three-phase compositions but the compositions obtained are less advantageous in terms of properties of adhesion of the nacres to the walls.

(63) Sensory Evaluation

(64) A panel of 4 women, aged 25 to 50, was asked to apply the example 2 as makeup on the face and the bust.

(65) The results of this evaluation are that the product has a texture that is fine, slides and easy to work with.

Examples 18 to 21

Influence of the Position of the Layer of Silica

(66) Examples 18 to 21 make it possible to show the influence of the position of the layer of silica of particles (P2) on the phenomenon of adhesion to the walls.

(67) TABLE-US-00011 mass % A Water 10.50 Absolute ethanol 16.8998 Propylene glycol 25.20 Glycerol 16.90 D&C Red No. 4 0.0001 B Isononyl isononanoate 20.00 D&C Violet No. 2 0.0001 C Nacre 10.50 TOTAL 100%

(68) Procedure

(69) The compositions of the examples 18 to 21 are prepared according to the protocol described hereinabove for the examples 1 to 3.

(70) Adhesion of the Nacres to the Walls

(71) TABLE-US-00012 Position of SiO2 Examples Nacres Structure layer Aspect Example 18 Mica-titanium oxide-silica sold Mica/TiO.sub.2/SiO.sub.2 External Clean walls, (Invention) under the reference Timiron (33/55/12) nacres settled splendid red by Merck in the liquid medium Example 19 Mica-titanium oxide-silica sold Mica/TiO.sub.2/SiO.sub.2 External Clean walls, (Invention) under the reference Timiron artic (46/40/14) nacres settled silver by Merck in the liquid medium Example 20 Mica-titanium oxide-Iron. ox.-silica- Mica/TiO.sub.2/Ox.fer/SiO.sub.2 External Clean walls, (Invention) sold under the reference Colorona (35/24/20/20) nacres settled precious gold by Merck in the liquid medium Example 21 Mica-titanium oxide-Silica- Mica/TiO.sub.2/SiO.sub.2/TiO.sub.2/SnO.sub.2 Internal Presence of (Comparison) titanium oxide-tin oxide sold under (62.5/19/17.5/1) nacres on the the reference Xirona Glitter red walls of the gold by Merck bottle and in the liquid medium

(72) It was therefore observed that the nacre particles (P2) as described hereinabove in the description (containing mica as a substrate and an external layer of silica) make it possible to obtain a composition in accordance with the invention, i.e. a three-phase composition at rest wherein the nacres are confined in the liquid medium.

(73) When the nacre particles (P2) contain mica as a substrate but no external layer of silica, then these nacre particles adhere to the walls of the bottle, which is not satisfactory according to the invention.

Example 22

Influence of the Percentage of Iron Oxide

(74) Example 22, which is compared with example 15 (invention), makes it possible to show the influence of the percentage of iron oxide which, according to the invention, must be less than or equal to 50%.

(75) TABLE-US-00013 mass % A Water 10.50 Absolute ethanol 16.8998 Propylene glycol 25.20 Glycerol 16.90 D&C Red No. 4 0.0001 B Isononyl isononanoate 20.00 D&C Violet No. 2 0.0001 C Nacre 10.50 TOTAL 100%

(76) Procedure

(77) The compositions of the example 22 are prepared according to the protocol described hereinabove for the examples 15 to 17.

(78) Adhesion of the Nacres to the walls

(79) TABLE-US-00014 % iron Examples Nacres Structure oxide Aspect Example 15 Silica-titanium oxide-tin oxide sold under SiO2/TiO2/SnO2 0 Clean walls, (invention) the reference Xirona Magic Mauve by Merck (88/10/2) nacres settled in the liquid medium Example 22 Silica-iron oxide sold under the reference SiO2/Iron. Ox. 55 Presence of (Comparative) Xirona Le Rouge by Merck (45/55) nacres on the walls of the bottle and in the liquid medium

(80) It was therefore observed that the nacre particles (P2) as described hereinabove in the description (containing less than 50% by weight of iron oxide) make it possible to obtain a composition in accordance with the invention, i.e. a three-phase composition at rest wherein the nacres are confined in the liquid medium.

(81) When the content in iron oxide is greater than 50% by weight, the nacres adhere to the walls of the bottle, which is not satisfactory according to the invention.