PROCESS FOR BLEACHING OR DYEING KERATIN FIBRES USING AN OXIDIZING COMPOSITION AND UV-VISIBLE RADIATION

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for bleaching or dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising a step of application, to said fibres, of a composition (A) containing one or more chemical oxidizing agents and a step of irradiation of said fibres by means of UV-visible radiation having a wavelength ranging from 200 to 800 nm and a fluence ranging from 1 to 5000 J/cm.sup.2, after application of said composition (A); when the process is a process for dyeing keratin fibres, then one or more oxidation dyes is or are also used.

Claims

1.-14. (canceled)

15. A process for bleaching or dyeing keratin fibers, the process comprising: (i) a step of application, to said fibers, of a composition containing one or more chemical oxidizing agents, (ii) a step of irradiation of said fibers by UV-visible radiation having a wavelength ranging from about 200 nm to about 800 nm and a fluence ranging from about 1 J/cm.sup.2 to about 5000 J/cm.sup.2, after application of said composition; (iii) when the process is a process for dyeing keratin fibers, then said process also uses one or more oxidation dyes.

16. The process according to claim 15, wherein the irradiation step is carried out by one or more light sources.

17. The process according to claim 15, wherein the irradiation step is carried out by one or more light-emitting sources chosen from light-emitting diodes (LEDs) or organic light-emitting diodes (OLEDs).

18. The process according to claim 15, wherein the keratin fibers, once treated with the oxidizing composition, are irradiated for a period of less than about 60 minutes.

19. The process according to claim 15, wherein the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide and/or persalts.

20. The process according to claim 15, wherein the oxidation dyes are chosen from oxidation bases and optionally couplers.

21. The process according to claim 20, wherein the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2--hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, la N,N-bis-(-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 1-methyl-2,5-diaminobenzene, para-aminophenol, 1-hydroxyethyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole, 2,3-diaminodihydroxypyrazolone dimethosulfonate, 2-(2-hydroxyethoxy)-3-amino pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, the addition salts thereof, or mixtures thereof.

22. The process according to claim 20, wherein the couplers are chosen from meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based couplers and heterocyclic couplers, resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-4-(-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 5-N-(p-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 1-p-hydroxyethyloxy-2,4-diaminobenzene hydrochloride and 3-aminophenol, the addition salts thereof, or mixtures thereof.

23. The process according to claim 15, wherein the composition also contains one or more basifying agents.

24. The process according to claim 23, wherein the basifying agent is chosen from aqueous ammonia, organic amines, inorganic bases, or mixtures thereof.

25. The process according to claim 15, wherein the composition does not exhibit an absorption peak in the range of wavelengths used for the irradiation step.

26. The process according to claim 15, wherein the UV-visible radiation has a wavelength ranging from about 350 nm to about 450 nm.

27. The process according to claim 15, wherein the UV-visible radiation has a fluence ranging from about 50 J/cm.sup.2 to about 2000 J/cm.sup.2.

28. The process according to claim 15, wherein the composition is rinsed out after the keratin fiber irradiation step.

29. A process for bleaching or dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising: (i) a step of application, to said fibers, of a composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, (ii) a step of irradiation of the keratin fibers by one or more diodes after application of said composition, when the process is a process for dyeing keratin fibers, then said process also uses one or more oxidation dyes.

Description

EXAMPLES

I. Example 1

Bleaching

[0143] In this example, the concentrations of active agents and the treatment time are compared between a bleaching process according to the invention and standard bleaching processes.

[0144] A. Compositions Tested

[0145] The following oxidizing compositions are prepared, the amounts of which are expressed as percentage by weight of active materials.

TABLE-US-00001 Composition A1 Hydrogen peroxide 7.2 A.M Ammonium hydroxide 0.7 A.M Water qs 100

TABLE-US-00002 Composition A2 Hydrogen peroxide 7.2 A.M Potassium persulfate .sup.6 A.M Ammonium persulfate 5.9 A.M Water qs 100

[0146] B. Light-Emitting Source

[0147] The light-emitting source used is a UVA LED bank, Lightnincure LC-L5 365 nm model, sold by Hamamatsu, which is an instrument composed of several light-emitting diodes (LEDs), the wavelength of the light of which is centred on 365 nm.

[0148] The instrument is composed of sufficient light-emitting diodes appropriately installed to illuminate a surface area of 60 cm.sup.2 with a fluence of between 1 and 5000 J/cm.sup.2.

[0149] C. Procedure

[0150] Each composition (A1) and (A2) is applied to locks of hair which are then irradiated for a period of 15 minutes at a fluence of 676 J/cm.sup.2, i.e. under an irradiance of 751 m Watts/cm.sup.2. The locks of hair are then rinsed.

[0151] The results obtained are compared with those obtained with processes using Nutrisse ultra claircissante and Infini Platinium bleaching compositions according to the modes of use in the instructions therefor.

[0152] D. Results

[0153] 1) Comparison of Active Agent Concentrations

[0154] It is noted that the basifying agent content is lower in the compositions according to the invention (A1) and (A2) compared with the Nutrisse ultra claircissante composition.

[0155] In particular, the basifying agent content is 0.7% by weight of active materials in the composition (A1) and is zero in the composition (A2), compared with 3% by weight of active materials in the Nutrisse ultra claircissante composition.

[0156] It is also noted that the persulfate content is lower in the composition (A2) than in the Infini Platinium composition, namely 11.9% by weight compared with 35% by weight.

[0157] 2) Comparison of the Treatment Time

[0158] It is noted that a bleaching of 6 tone levels is obtained on TL4 chestnut brown hair with the process according to the invention after 15 minutes of irradiation, whereas an equivalent bleaching is obtained after the composition called Infini Platinium has been left in for 50 minutes.

II. Example 2

Bleaching

[0159] In this example, the shades obtained are compared between bleaching processes according to the invention and standard bleaching processes.

[0160] A. Composition Tested

[0161] The composition A1 described in the previous example is used.

[0162] B. Light-Emitting Source

[0163] The light-emitting source used is a UVA LED bank, Lightnincure LC-L5 365 nm model, sold by Hamamatsu, which is an instrument composed of several UV light-emitting diodes (LEDs), the wavelength of the UV light of which is centred on 365 nm.

[0164] The instrument is composed of sufficient light-emitting diodes appropriately installed to illuminate a surface area of 60 cm.sup.2 with a fluence of between 1 and 5000 J/cm.sup.2.

[0165] C. Procedure

[0166] 1) Process 1

[0167] The composition (A1) is applied to locks of chestnut brown hair (TL4) which are then irradiated for a period of 15 minutes at a fluence of 341 J/cm.sup.2. The locks of hair are then rinsed.

[0168] 2) Process 2

[0169] The composition (A1) is applied to locks of chestnut brown hair (TL4) which are then irradiated for a period of 15 minutes at a fluence of 460 J/cm.sup.2. The locks of hair are then rinsed.

[0170] 3) Process 3

[0171] The composition called Infini Platinium is applied to locks of chestnut brown hair (TL4) for a period of 40 minutes. The locks of hair are then rinsed.

[0172] 4) Process 4

[0173] The composition called Infini Platinium is applied to locks of chestnut brown hair (TL4) for a period of 50 minutes. The locks of hair are then rinsed.

[0174] D. ResultsComparison of the Shades

[0175] It is noted that the bleaching processes according to the invention (Processes 1 and 2) result in lightening that adheres more to the natural tone level of the hair without producing a yellow/orangey lightening background.

[0176] The table hereinafter gives the lightenings obtained with processes 1 to 4:

[0177] The colour of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L* a* b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM2600D colorimeter. In this L* a* b* system, the three parameters denote, respectively, the colour intensity (L*), the green/red colour axis (a*) and the blue/yellow colour axis (b*).

[0178] In this table, the colorimetric parameters L*, a* and b* are given for untreated locks of hair (TL4) and locks of hair treated with the processes according to the prior art (Processes 3 and 4) and the processes according to the invention (Processes 1 and 2). Furthermore, the values a* and b* are respectively calculated between a*, once the locks have been bleached, and a.sub.0* for the untreated locks, and between b*, once the locks have been bleached, and b.sub.0* for the untreated locks.

[0179] The table shows that the lightenings obtained with the processes according to the invention are closer to the natural tone level since the components a* and b* vary less significantly than with the processes according to the prior art (Processes 3 and 4) compared with the values of the components a* and b* of chestnut brown hair.

TABLE-US-00003 L* a* b* a* b* TL4 chestnut brown 21.1 3.08 3.14 lock (untreated) Process 3 50.34 10.56 31.4 7.48 28.26 Process 1 (invention) 51.42 8.4 21.19 5.32 18.05 Process 4 54.72 11.19 30.28 8.11 27.14 Process 2 (invention) 54.76 7.46 19.57 4.38 16.43 Thus, it is noted that the values of a* et b* obtained with the processes according to the invention (Processes 1 and 2) are less removed from the initial values a.sub.0* et b.sub.0* for the TL4 untreated locks than with the processes according to the prior art. Consequently, the locks bleached with processes 3 and 4 are more red (a*) and more yellow (b*) than with the processes according to the invention.

III. Example 3

Bleaching

[0180] In this example, a bleaching process according to the invention is used which comprises a step of irradiation by means of UV-visible radiation at a wavelength equal to 385 nm and a wavelength at 405 nm at two different fluence ranges.

[0181] A. Compositions Tested

[0182] The composition A1 described in the previous examples is used.

[0183] B. Light Source

[0184] B1. Light Source at 385 nm

[0185] A UVA LED bank, Lightnincure LC-L5 385 nm model, sold by Hamamatsu, which is an instrument composed of several UV light-emitting diodes (LEDs), the wavelength of the UV light of which is centred on 385 nm, is used.

[0186] The instrument is composed of sufficient light-emitting diodes appropriately installed to illuminate a surface area of 60 cm.sup.2 with a fluence of between 1 and 5000 J/cm.sup.2.

[0187] B2. Light Source at 405 nm

[0188] A blue LED bank constructed so as to be composed of several UV light-emitting diodes (LEDs), the wavelength of the UV light of which is centred on 405 nm, is used.

[0189] The instrument is composed of sufficient light-emitting diodes appropriately installed to illuminate a surface area of 60 cm.sup.2 with a fluence of between 1 and 5000 J/cm.sup.2.

[0190] C. Procedure

[0191] C1. ProcedureLight Source at 385 nm

[0192] A lock of chestnut brown hair having a TL4 tone level is placed in a drip tray which is intended to then be placed under the UVA LED bank and care is taken to ensure that the lock is correctly located in the irradiation zone.

[0193] The UVA LED bank is preheated for a period of one minute.

[0194] The composition (A1) is applied to locks of chestnut brown hair having a TL4 tone level, at a rate of 20 grams per 0.5 gram of lock.

[0195] The drip tray is placed under the bank, taking care to correctly centre it, and the height of the drip tray relative to the light source is adjusted to a distance of one centimetre (Z=1 cm).

[0196] The lock of hair is irradiated at a fluence of 360 J/cm.sup.2 and a wavelength of 385 nanometres for five minutes, then the lock is turned over in order to irradiate the second side for five minutes. The lock is rinsed and then washed with shampoo.

[0197] C2. ProcedureLight Source at 405 nm

[0198] A lock of chestnut brown hair having a TL4 tone level is placed in a drip tray which is intended to then be placed under the blue LED bank and care is taken to ensure that the lock is correctly located in the irradiation zone.

[0199] The blue LED bank is preheated for a period of one minute.

[0200] The composition (A1) is applied to locks of chestnut brown hair having a TL4 tone level, at a rate of 20 grams per 0.5 gram of lock.

[0201] The drip tray is placed under the bank, taking care to correctly centre it, and the height of the drip tray relative to the light source is adjusted to a distance of one centimetre (Z=1 cm).

[0202] The lock of hair is irradiated at a fluence of 480 J/cm.sup.2 and a wavelength of 405 nanometres for 20 minutes, then the lock is turned over in order to irradiate the second side for 20 minutes. The lock is rinsed and then washed with shampoo.

[0203] C3. ProcedureLight Source at 405 nm

[0204] A lock of chestnut brown hair having a TL4 tone level is placed in a drip tray which is intended to then be placed under the blue LED bank and care is taken to ensure that the lock is correctly located in the irradiation zone.

[0205] The blue LED bank is preheated for a period of one minute.

[0206] The composition (A1) is applied to locks of chestnut brown hair having a TL4 tone level, at a rate of 20 grams per 0.5 gram of lock.

[0207] The drip tray is placed under the bank, taking care to correctly centre it, and the height of the drip tray relative to the light source is adjusted to a distance of one centimetre (Z=1 cm).

[0208] The lock of hair is irradiated at a fluence of 1440 J/cm.sup.2 and a wavelength greater than 405 nanometres for 60 minutes, then the lock is turned over in order to irradiate the second side for 60 minutes. The lock is rinsed and then washed with shampoo.

[0209] The data from the irradiation steps are indicated hereinafter:

TABLE-US-00004 Apparatus Irradiance Fluence Irradiation Time 385 nm UVA LED 1200 mW/cm.sup.2 720 J/cm.sup.2 2 5 minutes bank (Z = 1 cm) 405 nm UVA LED 400 W/cm.sup.2 960 J/cm.sup.2 2 20 minutes bank (Z = 1 cm) UVA LED bank 400 W/cm.sup.2 2880 J/cm.sup.2 2 60 minutes greater than 405 nm (Z = 1 cm)

[0210] D. ResultsComparison of the Shades

[0211] The colour of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L* a* b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM2600D colorimeter. In this L* a* b* system, the three parameters denote, respectively, the colour intensity (L*), the green/red colour axis (a*) and the blue/yellow colour axis (b*).

[0212] In this table, the colorimetric parameters L*, a* et b* are given for locks of untreated hair (TL4) and locks of hair treated with the processes according to the invention.

TABLE-US-00005 L* a* b* TL4 chestnut brown lock (untreated) 20.12 3 3.07 Process C1 (385 nm) 59.54 10.4 24.25 Process C2 (405 nm) 50.27 10.65 22.60 Process C3 (405 nm) 84.66 3.72 16.96

[0213] It is noted that the process according to the invention makes it possible to bleach efficiently at wavelengths of 385 nm and 405 nm at different fluences.

IV. Study of the Light Source

[0214] In this example, a process according to the invention is carried out which comprises a step of irradiation performed using a light-emitting source.

[0215] B. Compositions Tested

[0216] The following oxidizing composition is prepared, the amounts of which are expressed as percentage by weight as it is.

TABLE-US-00006 Composition A1 Hydrogen peroxide 7.2 A.M Ammonium hydroxide 0.7 A.M Water qs 100

[0217] B. Light Source

[0218] A UVA LED bank, Lightnincure LC-L5 365 nm model, sold by Hamamatsu, is provided as light-emitting source. The instrument is composed of several UV light-emitting diodes (LEDs) emitting UVA rays having a wavelength of 365 nm.

[0219] C. Procedure

[0220] A lock of dark blonde hair having a TL6 tone level is placed in a drip tray which is intended to then be placed under the UVA LED bank and care is taken to ensure that the lock is correctly located in the irradiation zone.

[0221] The UVA LED bank is preheated for a period of one minute.

[0222] The composition (A1) is applied to locks of dark blonde hair having a TL6 tone level, at a rate of 20 grams per 0.5 gram of lock.

[0223] The drip tray is placed under the bank, taking care to correctly centre it, and the height of the drip tray relative to the light source is adjusted to a distance of six centimetres (Z=6 cm).

[0224] The lock of hair is irradiated at a fluence of 36 J/cm.sup.2 and a wavelength centred around 365 nanometres for two minutes, then the lock is rinsed and washed with shampoo.

[0225] D. Results

[0226] The colour of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L* a* b* system, using a Data Color SF 600 colorimeter. In this L* a* b* system, the three parameters denote, respectively, the colour intensity (L*), the green/red colour axis (a*) and the blue/yellow colour axis (b*).

[0227] In this table hereinafter, the colorimetric parameters L*, a* et b* are given for locks of untreated TL6 hair and locks of hair treated according to the process according to the invention (process C1).

[0228] The table also gives the result of the buildup (or variation) of the colouring DE* which was calculated from the values of L*a*b* according to the following equation (i):

DE*={square root over ((L*L.sub.o*).sup.2+(a*a.sub.o*).sup.2+(b*b.sub.o*).sup.2)}(i)

[0229] In the equation (i), L*, a* and b* represent the values measured on locks of TL6 hair after dyeing according to process C1, and L.sub.0*, a.sub.0* and b.sub.0* represent the values measured on locks of undyed TL6 hair. The higher the DE* value, the better the colour buildup or variation.

TABLE-US-00007 L* a* b* DE* TL6 lock untreated 31.46 7.44 13.26 Process C1 38.63 9.88 19.35 9.75

[0230] It is noted that the process according to the invention makes it possible to produce lightening with a significantly short irradiation time.

[0231] Consequently, it is noted that the process according to the invention using light-emitting technology is efficient.

V. Dyeing

[0232] In this example, a dyeing process according to the invention, comprising a step of application of a composition containing an oxidation base and a coupler in the presence of an oxidizing agent and an irradiation step, is compared with a process comprising a step of application of a composition containing the oxidation base and the coupler and an irradiation step.

[0233] A. Compositions Tested

[0234] The following dye compositions are prepared, the amounts of which are expressed as percentage by weight of active materials.

TABLE-US-00008 Composition B 1-methyl-2,5-diaminobenzene 0.244 A.M 1,3-dihydroxybenzene 0.22 A.M Water qs 100

[0235] B. Light-Emitting Source

[0236] The light-emitting source used is a UVA LED bank, Lightnincure LC-L5 365 nm model, sold by Hamamatsu, which is an instrument composed of several UV light-emitting diodes (LEDs), the wavelength of the UV light of which is centred on 365 nm.

[0237] C. Procedure

[0238] 1) Dyeing Process (in the Absence of Oxidizing Agent)

[0239] The composition (B) is applied to locks of natural grey hair containing 90% white hairs, at a rate of 5 grams of composition per 1 gram of lock.

[0240] The lock is placed perpendicular to the UVA bank at a distance of 1 cm and a part of the lock is irradiated for a period of 10 minutes at a fluence of 676 J/cm.sup.2. The entire lock is rinsed and a shampoo is then applied.

[0241] 2) Dyeing Process According to the Invention

[0242] The composition (B) is mixed with an oxidizing composition comprising 20 volumes of hydrogen peroxide (6% of H.sub.2O.sub.2) in a 1/1 weight ratio.

[0243] The composition resulting from this mixing is applied to locks of natural grey hair containing 90% white hairs, at a rate of 10 grams of composition per 1 gram of lock.

[0244] The lock is placed perpendicular to the UVA bank at a distance of 1 cm and a part of the lock is irradiated for a period of 10 minutes at a fluence of 676 J/cm.sup.2. The entire lock is rinsed and a shampoo is then applied.

[0245] D. Results

[0246] It is noted that the UVA irradiation promotes coupling with or without oxidizing agent.