COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POLYMER COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE CATIONIC (METH)ACRYLAMIDE UNIT, A PARTICULAR SILICONE AND AT LEAST ONE SURFACTANT

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising one or more polymers comprising one or more cationic or quaternized acrylamide and/or methacrylamide unit(s); a particular oil-in-water-type silicone emulsion; one or more surfactants; and optionally one or more direct dye(s)/pigment(s). The invention also relates a cosmetic process for washing and/or condition keratin fibres using said cosmetic composition.

Claims

1.-24. (canceled)

25. A cosmetic composition, comprising: (a) at least one polymer comprising one or more cationic or quaternized acrylamide and/or methacrylamide units; (b) an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: a silicone mixture comprising: (i) at least one trialkylsilyl-terminated dialkylpolysiloxane having a viscosity ranging from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.Math.s at 25° C., and (ii) at least one amino silicone having a viscosity ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.Math.s at 25° C. and an amine value ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, a mixture of at least two emulsifiers, wherein: the mixture of emulsifiers comprises at least one nonionic emulsifier, and the mixture of emulsifiers has an HLB value ranging from 10 to 16, and water, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion has a D.sub.50 particle size of less than 350 nm; and (c) at least one surfactant.

26. The cosmetic composition according to claim 25, comprising at least one polymer (a) chosen from homopolymers or copolymers comprising at least unit of formula (II) or formula (III): ##STR00035## wherein: R.sub.1 is independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a CH.sub.3 radical; R is independently chosen from a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.12 alkyl radical; R.sub.5, R.sub.6, and R.sub.7 are independently chosen from a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.18 alkyl radical or a benzyl radical; R.sub.8 and R.sub.9 are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl radical; and Y.sup.− denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid or a halide.

27. The cosmetic composition according to claim 25, wherein the at least one polymer (a) comprises at least one polymer chosen from amphoteric polymers, cationic polymers, or mixtures thereof.

28. The cosmetic composition according to claim 25, wherein at least one polymer (a) is chosen from amphoteric polymers comprising a repetition of: (i) at least one unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide, (ii) at least one unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, and (iii) at least one unit derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid.

29. The cosmetic composition according to claim 25, comprising at least one polymer (a) chosen from: (meth)acrylamido(C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl)tri(C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl) ammonium halide/(meth)acrylamide copolymers, (meth)acrylamido(C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl)tri(C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl) ammonium halide/(meth)acrylamide/(meth)acrylic acid terpolymers, (meth)acrylamido(C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl)tri(C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl) ammonium halide/(C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl) (meth)acrylate/(meth)acrylic acid terpolymers, or mixtures thereof.

30. The cosmetic composition according to claim 25, comprising at least one polymer (a) chosen from: acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymers, acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers, acrylic acid/methylacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/methyl acrylates terpolymers, or mixtures thereof.

31. The cosmetic composition according to claim 25, wherein the total amount of polymers (a) ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

32. The cosmetic composition according to claim 25, wherein the composition comprises at least one trialkylsilyl-terminated dialkylpolysiloxane chosen from compounds of formula (IX): ##STR00036## wherein: R′ is independently chosen from monovalent hydrocarbon radicals having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and p is an integer ranging from 500 to 2,000.

33. The cosmetic composition according to claim 25, wherein the composition comprises at least one amino silicone chosen from compounds of formula (X): ##STR00037## wherein: R is independently chosen from monovalent hydrocarbon radicals having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms; X is independently chosen from R or a hydroxyl (—OH) or a C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkoxy group; A is an amino radical of the following formula, or a protonated amino form thereof: ##STR00038## wherein R.sup.1 is a C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkylene radical, R.sup.2 is independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl radical, R.sup.3 is a C.sub.1-C.sub.6-alkylene radical, and x is 0 or 1; and the sum of m+n is an integer from 50 to about 1000.

34. The cosmetic composition according to claim 25, wherein the silicone mixture comprises: (i) from 70 to 90% by weight of trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes having a viscosity ranging from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.Math.s at 25° C., relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture, and (ii) from 10 to 30% by weight of amino silicones having a viscosity ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.Math.s at 25° C. and an amine value ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture.

35. The cosmetic composition according to claim 25, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers comprises at least one emulsifier chosen from: (i) polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers comprising (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols of the formula:
R.sub.3—(OCH.sub.2CH.sub.2).sub.cOH wherein: R.sub.3 is chosen from a linear or branched C.sub.8-C.sub.40 alkyl or alkenyl group, and c is an integer ranging from 1 to 200; (ii) polyoxyalkylene (C.sub.8-C.sub.32) alkylphenyl ethers; (iii) polyoxyalkylene sorbitan (C.sub.8-C.sub.32) fatty acid esters; (iv) polyoxyethylenated (C.sub.8-C.sub.32) fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide; or (v) mixtures thereof.

36. The cosmetic composition according to claim 25, wherein, for the oil-in-water emulsion, wherein one or more of the following conditions are satisfied: the total amount of emulsifiers ranges from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion; the total amount of nonionic emulsifiers ranges from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion; the total amount of cationic emulsifiers ranges from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion; the silicone mixture is present in a total amount ranging from 40 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion; the total amount of trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes ranges from 35 to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion; the total amount of amino silicones ranges from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion; and/or the total amount of water ranges from 25 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

37. The cosmetic composition according to claim 25, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion has a D.sub.50 particle size ranging from 100 to 300 nm.

38. The cosmetic composition according to claim 25, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

39. The cosmetic composition according to claim 25, wherein the at least one surfactant (c) comprises at least one anionic surfactant.

40. The cosmetic composition according to claim 25, wherein the at least one surfactant (c) comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant, at least one zwitterionic surfactant, or a mixture thereof.

41. The cosmetic composition according to claim 25, further comprising at least one compound chosen from direct dyes, pigments, or mixtures thereof.

42. The cosmetic composition according to claim 41, wherein: the total amount of direct dyes ranges from 0.001% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and/or the total amount of pigments ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

43. A cosmetic composition comprising: (a) from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one polymer chosen from acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymers, acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers, acrylic acid/methylacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/methyl acrylates terpolymers, or mixtures thereof; (b) from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion, of a silicone mixture comprising: (i) from 75% to 85% by weight of at least one trialkylsilyl-terminated dialkylpolysiloxane having a viscosity ranging from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.Math.s at 25° C., relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture, and (ii) from 15% to 25% by weight of at least one amino silicone having a viscosity ranging from 1,500 to 15,000 mPa.Math.s at 25° C. and an amine value ranging from 3.5 to 8 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture, a mixture of at least two emulsifiers, wherein: the mixture of emulsifiers comprises from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion, of nonionic emulsifiers, and the mixture of emulsifiers has an HLB value ranging from 10 to 16, and water, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion has a D.sub.50 particle size ranging from 100 nm to 300 nm; and (c) at least one anionic surfactant.

44. A process for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres comprising applying to the keratin fibres a composition comprising: (a) at least one polymer comprising one or more cationic or quaternized acrylamide and/or methacrylamide units; (b) an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: a silicone mixture comprising: (i) at least one trialkylsilyl-terminated dialkylpolysiloxane having a viscosity ranging from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.Math.s at 25° C., and (ii) at least one amino silicone having a viscosity ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.Math.s at 25° C. and an amine value ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, a mixture of at least two emulsifiers, wherein: the mixture of emulsifiers comprises at least one nonionic emulsifier, and the mixture of emulsifiers has an HLB value ranging from 10 to 16, and water, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion has a D.sub.50 particle size of less than 350 nm; and (c) at least one surfactant.

Description

EXAMPLES

[0643] In the examples that follow and unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are given as weight percentages of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 1: Preparation of an Oil-In-Water Emulsion

[0644] 450 g of amino silicone fluid (trimethylsilyl-terminated aminoethyl-aminopropylmethylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymer with amine value of 7.2 mg of KOH/g sample, and a viscosity of 5,600 mPa.Math.s at 25° C.) were introduced in an emulsion tank. Stirring was started and 1,800 g of trimethylsilyl terminated dimethylsiloxane polymer fluid of viscosity 61,500 mPa.Math.s at 25° C. were introduced under stirring in the same tank. Both fluids were mixed for 2 hours at room temperature.

[0645] In a separate tank, 49 g of steareth-6 and 62 g of PEG-100 stearate were introduced and heated to 60° C. The temperature was maintained till both emulsifiers became liquid. Then 31 g of trideceth-3 and 350 g of trideceth-10 (80% of active material) were added. These nonionic emulsifiers mixture had an HLB value=11.25.

[0646] Then 80 g water and 6.2 g glacial acetic acid were added to the tank and the mixing started. The mixing was continued till whole mass became a creamy paste. The whole paste was introduced in the emulsion tank. Homogenization was carried out for 30 minutes at room temperature. 79.6 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 60 minutes. 72.7 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 50 minutes. 197.4 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 294.3 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 180 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 180 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 197.4 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 197.4 g demineralized water were added and homogenize for 3 minutes. 228.5 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 3 minutes. Lastly 40.5 g 2-phenoxyethanol were added as a biocide and homogenization was carried out for 3 minutes.

[0647] A stable oil-in-water emulsion having D50 particle size of 170 nm was obtained.

Example 2

[0648] The following compositions 1 and 2 and comparative composition 1′ were prepared from the ingredients indicated in table 1 below (wt. % of AM).

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 1 2 1' Composition (Invention) (Invention) (Comparative) Coco-betaine 1.8 0.3 1.8 Sodium laureth sulfate 13.9 13.9 13.9 Sodium chloride 1.5 1.036 1.5 Carbomer — 0.2 — Acrylamidopropyltrimonium 0.15 0.15 — chloride/acrylamide copolymer (=APTAC/AA) diallyldimethylammonium/ — — 0.15 acrylamide copolymer (Polyquaternium-7) Dimethicone (and) 4 % of 4% of 4% of Amodimethicone (and) emulsion, emulsion, emulsion, Trideceth-10 (and) PEG-100 i.e. i.e. i.e. stearate (and) Steareth-6 0.4% AM 0.4% AM 0.4% AM (and) Trideceth-3 SiA + SiA + SiA + (of exemple 1) 1.6% AM 1.6% AM 1.6% AM of Si of Si of Si Glycerin — 0.5 — Cocamidopropyl betaine — 1.22 — Cocos nucifera (coconut) — 0.02 — oil/cocos nucifera oil Hexylene glycol — 0.15 — Glycol distearate — 1.59 — PPG-5-ceteth-20 0.1 — 0.1 Propylene glycol (and) 0.16 + 0.16 — 0.16 + 0.16 PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate Preservatives, pH agent qs qs qs Water Qs 100 100 100 *AM = active material SiA: amodimethicone Si: PDMS

[0649] The compositions could be used as a shampoo.

[0650] The compositions were applied to the hair. A significantly improved disentangling was obtained in particular with composition 1 according to the invention, relative to comparative composition 1′.

[0651] Then each composition 1 and 1′ was applied 5 times on hair locks with a rinsing step after each application, and the silicone deposition was measured by a WDXRF Optim'x Thermofischer (Wavelength Dispersion) XRF system on samples of 250 mg of hair. This measurement has been made after one application and after 5 applications for each composition.

[0652] The quantities of silicone deposited are indicated in table 2 below, in μg/g of hair.

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Composition 1 Composition 1’ Application No 1 2,276 ± 18 746 ± 8 5 8,289 ± 32 2,065 ± 16 

[0653] Table 2 shows that the use of the polymer of the invention results in a significantly improved quantity of silicone deposited on hair.

Example 3

[0654] The following conditioners have been prepared from the ingredients indicated in table 3 below (wt. % of AM).

TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 2’ 3 4 (Comparative) (Invention) (Invention) Behentrimonium 0.474 0.474 0.474 chloride Polyglycerin-10 0.012 0.012 — Dimethicone (and) 8% of 8% of 8% of Amodimethicone emulsion emulsion emulsion (and) Trideceth-10 (0.8% of SiA (0.8% of (0.8% of (and) PEG-100 and 3.2% of SiA and SiA and stearate (and) Si) 3.2% of Si) 3.2% of Si) Steareth-6 (and) Trideceth-3 of example 1 Cetyl esters 0.8 0.8 0.8 Charcoal powder 0.1 0.1 — Cetrimonium chloride 0.625 0.625 0.625 Iron oxides 1 1 0.25 RED 33 0.01 0.01 0.01 Cetyl alcohol 4 4 4 BLUE 1 0.06 0.06 0.06 EXT. VIOLET 2 0.044 0.044 0.044 ORANGE 4 0.076 0.076 0.076 Isopropyl alcohol 0.108 0.108 0.108 Cetearyl alcohol 0.7 0.7 0.7 Polyglyceryl-10 0.012 0.012 — stearate Polyglyceryl-10 0.012 0.012 — myristate Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.25 0.25 — Dipalmitoylethyl 0.3 0.3 0.3 hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate Acrylamidopropyl- 0.225 0.225 trimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer Isododecane — — 0.6 Acrylates/polytrimethyl- — — 0.4 siloxymethacrylate copolymer Mica — — 0.04075 Preservatives, qs qs qs fragrance Water qs 100 100 100 SiA: amodimethicone Si: PDMS

[0655] Compositions 2′ and 3 were each applied to locks of hair, in a proportion of 0.4 g per gram of lock. The locks were then rinsed with water and dried under a hood (60° C.).

[0656] The color of each lock was then evaluated in the CIE L* a* b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM2600D colorimeter.

[0657] In this L* a* b* system, the three parameters respectively denote the intensity of the color (L*), the green/red color axis (a*) and the blue/yellow color axis (b*).

[0658] The variation in the coloration of the locks before and after dyeing (i.e. application of the tested composition) is measured by (ΔE.sub.ab*) which corresponds to the color uptake according to the following equation:

ΔE.sub.ab*=√{square root over ((L*−L.sub.0*).sup.2+(a*=a.sub.0*).sup.2+(b*−b.sub.0).sup.2)}

[0659] In this equation, L*, a* and b* represent the values measured after dyeing with composition 2′ (comparative) or 3 (invention) and L.sub.0*, a.sub.0* and b.sub.0* represent the values measured before dyeing, corresponding to an untreated control lock (50% grey hair).

[0660] The greater the ΔE.sub.ab* value, the greater the difference in color of the lock before and after dyeing, which shows good colour uptake.

[0661] The results are indicated in the table 4 below.

TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 Composition ΔE.sub.ab* (D65) 2’ (comparative) 4.34 3 (invention) 5.87

[0662] Table 4 shows that the use of the polymer of the invention results in an improved good colour uptake.