Shirt including stretch material

Abstract

A shirt constructed using two different fabrics to permit a wearer additional stretch and flexibility and to facilitate wicking away or evaporating moisture from the wearer. One fabric is a polyester/spandex blend for formal elements of the shirt, including the placket, cuffs and collar. The other is a polyester 4-way stretch/mesh material having wicking and antibacterial capabilities for the rest of the shirt elements, including the sleeves, which are raglan-constructed.

Claims

1. A shirt comprising: one or more performance elements selected from the group: a body made of a stretch/mesh material, sleeves made of a stretch/mesh material, and raglan pattern sleeves; and one or more formal elements selected from the group: a placket with studholes, a wing-tip collar, buttoned cuffs, cuffs with cufflink holes, and tuxedo pleats.

2. The shirt of claim 1, comprising a placket with studholes, a wing-tip collar, and cuffs with cufflink holes.

3. The shirt of claim 1, comprising a placket with buttonholes, a turndown collar and buttoned cuffs.

4. The shirt of claim 1, comprising tuxedo pleats formed of said stretch/mesh material.

5. The shirt of claim 1, comprising tuxedo pleats and a wing-tip collar.

6. The shirt of claim 1, said stretch/mesh material being a 100% polyester 4-way stretch/mesh material.

7. The shirt of claim 1, said stretch/mesh material formed of a largely but not wholly hydrophobic fiber.

8. The shirt of claim 1, said placket, collar, and cuffs being formed of a stretchy material amenable to fusing.

9. A shirt comprising: a stretch/mesh material forming a shirt body and raglan-constructed sleeves; and cuffs comprising holes for joining the cuffs; a wing-tip collar; and tuxedo pleats.

10. The shirt of claim 9, further comprising a placket; wherein a second material forms said placket, said second material being stretchy and amenable to fusing.

11. The shirt of claim 9, said tuxedo pleats formed of said stretch/mesh material.

12. The shirt of claim 9, said stretch/mesh material being a 100% polyester 4-way stretch/mesh material.

13. The shirt of claim 9, said collar and cuffs being formed of a 90/10 polyester micro fiber/spandex blend.

14. The steps of making a shirt, comprising the steps of: joining one or more performance element sets to one or more performance elements; and attaching a body to sleeves; wherein said one or more performance element sets are selected from the group: a body made of a stretch/mesh material, sleeves made of a stretch/mesh material, and raglan pattern sleeves; and wherein said one or more formal elements are selected from the group: a placket with studholes, a wing-tip collar, buttoned cuffs, cuffs with cufflink holes, and tuxedo pleats.

15. The steps of claim 14, said joining step comprising sewing cuffs with cufflink holes to raglan pattern sleeves.

16. The steps of claim 14, said joining step comprising sewing cuffs with cufflink holes to sleeves made of a stretch/mesh material.

17. The steps of claim 14, said joining step comprising sewing a wing-tip collar to a body made of a stretch/mesh material.

18. The steps of claim 14, said joining step comprises sewing tuxedo pleats to a body made of a stretch/mesh material.

19. The steps of claim 16, said tuxedo pleats formed of said stretch/mesh material.

20. A formal element for a piece of formalwear, comprising: a panel of fabric comprising tuxedo pleats; said pleats formed of a stretch/mesh material.

21. The formal element of claim 20, said stretch/mesh material being a 100% polyester 4-way stretch/mesh material.

22. The formal element of claim 20, said stretch/mesh material formed of a largely but not wholly hydrophobic fiber.

23. The formal element of claim 20, said formal element sewn to a shirt body for use in a piece of formalwear.

24. The formal element of claim 23, said shirt body being formed of a stretch/mesh material.

25. The formal element of claim 23, said shirt body further comprising raglan pattern sleeves sewn thereto.

Description

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0015] FIG. 1 is a front view of an exemplary tuxedo shirt including the performance elements.

[0016] FIG. 2 is a rear view of an exemplary tuxedo shirt including the performance elements.

[0017] FIG. 3A depicts Section A-A of the cuff in FIG. 2.

[0018] FIG. 3B depicts Section A-A of an alternative form of the cuff in FIG. 2.

[0019] FIG. 4 shows Section B-B of one side of the tuxedo pleats in FIG. 1.

[0020] FIG. 5 is a front view of an exemplary dress shirt including the performance elements.

[0021] FIG. 6 is a rear view of an exemplary dress shirt including the performance elements.

[0022] FIG. 7 is an exemplary process of manufacturing a tuxedo shirt including the performance elements.

[0023] FIG. 8 is an exemplary process of manufacturing a dress shirt including the performance elements.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0024] The invention includes a garment constructed of two or more fabrics, which perform different functions or perform some better than others. Embodiments of the invention include formalwear garments and dress garments. These each include, respectively tuxedo shirts and dress shirts. Such shirts are frequently white but can be in a variety of colors (solid, such as black) or multiple colors, and may come in big and tall sizes. These embodiments include formal elements. Formal (or aesthetic) elements include a wing-tip (or wing) collar, which are typically aesthetically required to be crisp or stiff, a turndown collar, tuxedo pleats on the front portion of the shirt, cuffs (single or french, which may accommodate cufflinks), and the placket (accommodating studs and accessories). These embodiments also include functional elements. They include a stretch/mesh fabric that is preferably a four-way stretch, and preferably also moisture wicking and antimicrobial. Such as stretch fabric allows the fabric to move with the body, especially in the shoulders, in which the range of motion is higher than other shirt portions. Another fabric may be a polyester/spandex blend fabric for elements that, for aesthetic reasons must be more stiff. Fusing may be applied to obtain the stiffness. Another functional element is a shoulder formed using a raglan construction. A raglan sleeve construction allows a more optimal range of motion across shoulders, and reduces manufacturing efforts, and pieces needed to construct a shirt.

[0025] An embodiment of the invention is a formal wear garment that combines formal as well as functional elements. Formal elements include a wing-tip (or wing) collar, tuxedo pleats, cuffs, and the placket (the latter two accommodating studs and accessories). Functional elements include a four-way stretch fabric that is moisture wicking and antimicrobial, which stretch fabric is used on the pleats, sleeves, and body of the shirt. Another element is a polyester/spandex blend fabric for some or all of the formal elements, which may require more stiffness. Another functional element is a shoulder formed using a raglan style sleeve pattern.

[0026] An embodiment of the invention is a dress garment that combines formal as well as functional elements. Formal elements include a turndown collar, cuffs and the placket (the latter two with buttons and button-holes). Functional elements include a four-way stretch fabric that is moisture wicking and antimicrobial, which stretch fabric is used on the sleeves and body of the shirt. Another element is a polyester/spandex blend fabric for all of the formal elements, which may require more stiffness. Another functional element is a shoulder formed using a raglan style sleeve pattern.

[0027] Basic construction of an embodiment of the invention is a raglan sleeve design shirt, in which the sleeves are each made of a single piece extending toward the neckline and joined to an arc of the collar (on top edge of the sleeve) and then, leaving the collar, along a diagonally-aligned seam to the front of the body of the shirt, down under the arm forming the bottom of an armhole (on the bottom side of the sleeve), and then back along a diagonally-aligned seam to the back of the body of the shirt, returning to the arc of the collar. This leaves a diagonal seam (front and rear) stretching from the underarm to the two endpoints of an arc along the seam between the sleeve and the collar. A raglan sleeve covers the whole upper part of the shoulder without seams located in that part of the body. Raglan sleeves can provide a looser fitsuch as compared to a yoke collar and ordinary or in-set sleeves, easing shoulder movements but without being baggy. In addition, a shirt having a raglan sleeve can be easier to construct than on having in-set sleeves because the front curves on the body and on the sleeves each match the corresponding rear curves. In addition, there are fewer parts to cut and assemble than using a yoke collar and in-set sleeves.

[0028] The first fabric is a stretch fabric and preferably a stretch mesh, and more preferably a four-way stretch fabric that is moisture wicking and antimicrobial. The first fabric is preferably strong and lightweight, and stretchable in various dimensions, and not just on the bias. An example of such a stretch fabric is a 100% polyester mesh, and a specific type is made by Eclat, of Taiwan, and may be found under the brand name BODY CARE.

[0029] The wicking behavior results from a fiber-based moisture management system. The stretch/mesh may have one or more components that can move perspiration away from the body, such as a hydrophobic fiber that wicks moisture into the fabric without absorbing it and distributes it through the garment, and a second component, that absorbs the perspiration and may also distributes it through the fabric, increasing the surface area through which evaporation can occur. The stretch/mesh may also have a component such as a primarily hydrophobic fiber, such as a polyester fiber treated with a silicone-based solution to make its slightly more receptive to water, but not hydrophilic. That fiber then can wick moisture into the fabric and distributes it throughout and toward the outer surface without absorbing very much moisture, thus increasing the surface area through which evaporation can occur. Thus, this fabric can move perspiration away from the body, and through the fabric, where it can evaporate quickly, allowing the wearer to feel cooler and more comfortable.

[0030] The antimicrobial characteristics are the result of an agent applied to the components of the mesh before, during or after weaving that repel microbes, especially bacteria. A sweaty garment often smells, which is a result of the bacteria growing in the garment. In addition, such grown can result in staining of a garment.

[0031] The second fabric is a woven fabric, and preferably a polyester/spandex blend fabric. The second fabric is preferably amenable to fusing so as to make structures formed with that material as stiff as needed for the formal elements, and provide a surface and structure that meets the aesthetic requirements for formal elements. The second fabric is preferably strong and lightweight, and stretchable in various dimensions, and not just on the bias. That second fabric is preferably a 90/10 blend of polyester micro fiber and spandex (a polyester-polyurethane copolymer). Such a fabric is made by TVF (Top Value Fabrics).

[0032] Referring now to the figures, FIG. 1 illustrates a front view of a formalwear shirt 1. FIG. 1 depicts sleeves 14 in a twisted aspect so as to depict cuffs 20 edge-on. Shirt 1 includes formal elements and functional elements. Formal elements include wing collar 5, tuxedo-style pleats 40, and cuffs 20. Other parts of shirt 1 include body 2 and raglan sleeves 14.

[0033] Wing collar 5 is attached to shirt 1 at collar seam 9. Collar seam 9 goes around the wearer's neck, and joins wing collar 5, preferably along an arc, to the each of the upper edges of raglan sleeves 14. Collar seam 9 also joins wing collar 5, preferably along an arc, to the rear face 4 of body 2, and to the front side 3 of body 2 (also joining part of the top of pleats 40 to body 2). Wing collar 5 is a standup collar with folded-over points also referred to as a tuxedo collar. A button 8 is supplied to close wing collar 5, or optionally snaps may be used (not shown) to close wing collar 5. An edgestitch may be used for wing collar 5.

[0034] Wing collar 5 is preferably made of a woven material that is somewhat stretchy, but as a formal element, must meet the aesthetic requirement to be crisp and smooth and to retain its shape. Wing collar 5 is preferably made of a 90/10 blend of polyester micro fiber and spandex. Wing collar 5 is subjected to fusing, preferably heavy fusing, to form and retain the upright structure and the wings 7.

[0035] Cuffs 20 are preferably ordinary single cuffs, but may optionally be french cuffs, which extend beyond wrist and folding outwardly back to form doubled cuff with interior surface exposed (see FIGS. 3A, 3B for details). Cuffs 20 are attached to sleeve 14 by cuff seam 22. Cuffs accommodates cuff link 28 by having cuff edges 26a, 26b meet inside-to-inside, using cuff link 28 to affix the edges together through holes 24 passing through both sides. Cuffs 20 are preferably about 3 long and cuff seam 22 may use a topstitch.

[0036] Cuffs 20 are preferably made of a woven material that is somewhat stretchy, but as a formal element, must meet the aesthetic requirement to be crisp and smooth and to retain its shape, and are preferably made of the same polyester blend as wing collar 5. Cuffs 20 are subjected to fusing, preferably heavy fusing, to form and retain the stiff shape.

[0037] Details of the cuffs 20 are depicted in FIG. 3A, which is Section A-A in FIG. 2 taken looking down the cuff. Cuff 20 has a single fused layer 64, with edges 26a, 26b. Holes 24 are formed through both ends of layer 64, close to edges 26a, 26b. Holes 24 (see FIG. 2) are preferably surrounded by hole stitching 60. Cuff link 28 joins the two ends through holes 24.

[0038] Optional french cuff 70 (shown in FIG. 3B) is formed by having a longer cuff, which extends beyond wearer's wrist and then folding outwardly back to form a doubled cuff with an interior surface exposed. FIG. 3B is Section A-A in FIG. 2 of optional french cuff 70. Cuff 70 has, due to folding, two fused layers 71, 72. Outer layer 71 has edges 126a, 126b, and inner layer 72 has edges 126c, 126d. As with cuffs 20, holes 24 are formed through both ends of layers 71, 72, close to edges 126a, 126b, 126c, 126d. Holes 24 are preferably surrounded by hole stitching 60. Cuff link 28 joins the four ends through holes 24.

[0039] Placket 30 is attached to shirt 1 along one edge of front 3 of body 2, by placket stitching 31 and placket stitching 32 (as shown in detail in FIG. 4), and at its top to wing collar 5 along a portion of collar seam 9. Placket 30 is used to join the left and right sides of front 3 of body 2, preferably using studs 36 passing through stud holes 34. Alternatively, one or more of studs 36 may be replaced by a button and button-hole (not shown).

[0040] Placket 30 is preferably made of a woven material that is somewhat stretchy, but as a formal element, must meet the aesthetic requirement to be crisp and smooth and to retain its shape, and preferably is made of the same polyester blend as wing collar 5. Placket 30 may be subjected to fusing to facilitate a smooth surface and to have sufficient rigidity to retain studs 36 in stud holes 34.

[0041] Tuxedo-style pleats 40 may be formed of two panels, one on each side of placket 30. Each panel is attached to front 3 of body 2 of shirt 1 by top pleat stitching at 41 (along part of raglan seam 41 and part of collar seam 9), and bottom pleat stitching 42. For the panel on the side with placket 30, side pleat stitching 43 attaches outer edge, and placket stitching 31 (or placket stitching 31 and placket stitching 32) (as shown in detail in FIG. 4) attaches the final side. For the panel on the side without placket 30 (i.e.

[0042] with studholes 34), side pleat stitching 44 attaches outer edge, and side pleat stitching (not shown, obscured by placket 30) attaches the final side. Pleats 40 preferably reach the top of the front 3 of body 2, and extend downward to approximately the last stud hole 34. Alternatively, hem stitching 11 may attach pleats 40 if they extend to the bottom edge of body 1 (not shown). Exemplary pleat sections 50 (see FIG. 4) may be formed having a pleat depth (i.e. side-to-side width) and be about 4.5 wide per panel. A topstitch may be used.

[0043] Pleats 40 are preferably made of a strong and lightweight stretch/mesh fabric, and more preferably a 100% polyester four-way stretch/mesh fabric that is moisture wicking and antimicrobial. As a formal element, pleats 40 must meet the aesthetic requirement to be crisp and smooth and to retain their shape.

[0044] Details of the attachment of one panel of pleats 40 is depicted in FIG. 4, which is a section taken looking down the front of shirt 1. Pleats 40 are attached to front 3 along the outer edge by side pleat stitching 43, and on the placket side by placket stitching 31 (or alternatively placket stitching 31 and placket stitching 32). Pleats 40 are preferably formed by creating multiple pleat sections 50. Exemplary pleat sections 50 are shown in FIG. 4, in which edge 47 of the gathered fabric is folded over at fold 46 to contact (or be close to) under-surface 48. Under-surface 48 may be about the same length as the distance between fold 46 and edge 47, or may be shorter (not shown). Pleats may be formed using processes known in the industry. Optionally pleats may have stitching 52 (shown to left of break only for purposes of depiction).

[0045] Other, non-formal elements of shirt 1 include sleeves 14 and body 2.

[0046] Each of sleeves 14 is attached to shirt 1 at cuff 20, by cuff seam 22, to body 2 by raglan seam 16 and part of collar seam 9. Sleeves 14 are made of a single piece, preferably tube-formed, extending toward the neckline. That extending portion is joined to an arc of wing collar 5 and runs downward along diagonally-aligned raglan seam 16 joining sleeve 14 to front 3. As raglan seam 16 approaches the wearer's underarm, it preferably turns downward and then loops under the arm, forming the bottom of an armhole (on the bottom side of the sleeve). Sleeve 16 takes a corresponding shape along raglan seam 16 on rear 4, before returning to the arc of wing collar 5. The use of a raglan-constructed sleeve is especially beneficial because sleeves 14 encompass the wearer's shoulders and arm, which each have very high potential ranges of motion. The looser raglan sleeve structure and larger armhole facilitate larger ranges of motion and easier motion than would a yoke collar/in-set arms typically used for formalwear.

[0047] Sleeves 14 are preferably a strong and lightweight stretch/mesh, and more preferably the same stretch/mesh fabric as pleats 40.

[0048] Body 2 includes front 3 and rear 4, is connected as described above for sleeves 4, placket 30 and wing collar 5. Body 2 may be formed of a fabric tube, making front 3 and rear 4 unitary, or front 3 (left side and right side) and rear 4 may be joined by seams (not shown) extending downward underneath the armholes joining the two on both sides. Left and right edges of body 2 are joined at front 3 by placket 30 and studs 36. The bottom hem formed by hem stitching 11 be longer front and back than the sides, or may be cut straight across (not shown).

[0049] Body 2 is preferably a strong and lightweight stretch/mesh, and more preferably the same stretch/mesh fabric as pleats 40 and sleeves 14.

[0050] The use of the stretch/mesh fabric is especially beneficial for pleats, sleeves and the body because the latter two encompass the wearer's shoulders and arm, which each have very high potential ranges of motion, and the former covers a large portion of the wearer's torso. Thus stretch/mesh fabric facilitates larger ranges of motion and easier motion than typical fabrics used for formalwear. In addition, it is beneficial as it allows the wicking behavior to encompass the wearer's torso, shoulders, arm and underarm. Thus stretch/mesh fabric facilitates wicking to parts of the shirt covering a large area of the wearer's body, facilitating evaporation.

[0051] Another embodiment is dress shirt 101, shown in FIGS. 5 and 6. Items corresponding to features depicted in FIGS. 1 and 2 retain the same references. Referring now to those figures, FIG. 5 illustrates a front view of shirt 101. Shirt 1 includes formal elements and functional elements. Formal elements include turndown collar 105 and cuffs 120. Other parts of shirt 101 include body 102 and raglan sleeves 14.

[0052] Turndown collar 105 is attached to shirt 101 at collar seam 109. Collar seam 9 goes around the wearer's neck, and joins wing collar 5, preferably along an arc, to the each of the upper edges of raglan sleeves 14. Collar seam 109 also joins turndown collar 105, preferably along an arc, to the rear face 104 of body 102 (shown in FIG. 6), and to the front side 103 of body 102. Turndown collar 105 is folded-over portion 107 extending past seam 109 for most its circumference. Collar 105 could also be a button-down or a spread collar (each not shown). A button 108 is supplied to close collar 105. Turndown collar is preferably made of the same polyester blend as wing collar 5, as well as being subjected to fusing, preferably heavy fusing, to form and retain the upright structure and folded-over portion 107.

[0053] Cuffs 120 are preferably ordinary cuffs and are attached to sleeve 14 by cuff seam 22. Cuffs are preferably joined using button/button-hole combination 128. Cuffs 120 are preferably about 3 long and cuff seam 122 may use a topstitch.

[0054] Cuffs 120 are preferably made of a woven material that is somewhat stretchy, but as a formal element, must meet the aesthetic requirement to be crisp and smooth and to retain its shape, and preferably of the same polyester blend as turndown collar 105. Cuffs 120 are subjected to fusing, preferably heavy fusing, to form and retain the stiff shape.

[0055] Placket 30 is attached to shirt 101 along one edge of front 3 of body 2, by placket stitching 31 and placket stitching 32, and at its top to wing collar 5 along a portion of collar seam 9. Placket 30 is used to join the left and right sides of front 3 of body 102, preferably using buttons 136 passing through buttonholes 134.

[0056] Placket 30 is preferably made of a woven material that is somewhat stretchy, but as a formal element, must meet the aesthetic requirement to be crisp and smooth and to retain its shape, and preferably is made of the same polyester blend as turndown collar 105. Placket 30 may be subjected to fusing to facilitate a smooth surface.

[0057] Other, non-formal elements of shirt 101 include sleeves 14 and body 102, which do not differ in construction from the corresponding elements in FIGS. 1 and 2.

[0058] An embodiment of the invention is the steps of manufacturing a formalwear shirt constructed using two different fabrics. With reference to FIGS. 1, 2, 3A, 4 and 7, the steps include constructing formalwear shirt 1 by sewing body 2 to sleeves 14 in step 205, where body 2 and sleeves 14 are raglan-constructed and made of a polyester 4-way stretch/mesh material, sewing to body 2 and sleeves 14 heavily-fused wing collar 5 made of a polyester/spandex blend in step 210, sewing to sleeves 14 fused single cuffs 20 made from the same blend in step 215 (or French cuff 70), sewing to body 2 placket 30 made from the same blend in step 220, sewing to the left and right sides of front 3 of body 2 a panel each of tuxedo pleats 40 made from the stretch/mesh material in step 225, forming cufflink holes 24 in cuffs 20 and stud holes 34 in placket 30 in step 230, and sewing button 8 to wing collar 5 in step 235.

[0059] An embodiment of the invention is the steps of manufacturing dress shirt 101 constructed using two different fabrics. With reference to FIGS. 5, 6 and 8, the steps include constructing dress shirt 101 by sewing together shirt body 102 to sleeves 14 in step 305, where body 102 and sleeves 14 are raglan-constructed and made of a polyester 4-way stretch/mesh material, sewing to body 102 and sleeves 14 a heavily-fused turndown collar 105 made of a polyester/spandex blend in step 310, sewing to sleeves 14 fused cuffs 120 made from the same blend in step 315, sewing to body 102 a placket 30 made from the same blend in step 320, forming button-holes 134 in placket 30 and attaching buttons 136 in step 325, and forming button/buttonholes combination 128 on cuffs 120 in step 330.

[0060] Additional embodiments include steps of manufacturing the disclosed shirts by reference to carrying out the individual steps of creating the previously-disclosed seams, hems or other connections between disclosed shirt components, and creating such elements as studholes, button-holes, affixing buttons, etc.

[0061] Additional embodiments include the process of making formal elements of the second material, which in one embodiment is the previously-disclosed polyester blend, and in which one or more of those elements is fused to improve the element's stiffness.

[0062] Additional embodiments include a panel of tuxedo pleats formed of a mesh, preferably a stretch/mesh, including the panel being affixed as disclosed to a shirt.

[0063] Additional embodiments include a tuxedo jacket including one or more of the polyester blend or stretch/mesh fabrics, breathable dress pants with an athletic waist band including one or more of the polyester blend or stretch/mesh fabrics, bow ties with four-way stretch and improved latch system.