Method for Dyeing Keratin Fibres

Abstract

Disclosed is a method of dyeing keratin fibres, in particular hair, which involves: a) achieving the desired colour by mixing two or three compositions, each of which includes a single direct dye, magenta, blue or yellow, having similar performance characteristics b) adding the mixture obtained at step a) to a diluent composition; c) mixing and applying the composition obtained at step b) to the hair, optionally after checking the resulting colour by comparing it with reference standards.

Claims

1. A method of dyeing keratin fibres, in particular hair, which comprises: a) achieving the desired colour by mixing two or three solutions, each of which includes a single direct dye, magenta, blue or yellow having similar performance characteristics, with the proviso that the blue dye is not HC Blue 15; b) adding the mixture obtained at step a) to a diluent composition; c) mixing and application of the composition obtained at step b) to the hair, optionally after checking the resulting colour by comparison with a reference standard.

2. A method according to claim 1 wherein the magenta dye is Basic Red 51.

3. A method according to claim 1 wherein the yellow dye is selected from Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Yellow 57.

4. A method according to claim 1, wherein the blue dye is selected from Basic Blue 124, HC Blue 16, HC Blue 17 and Basic Blue 75.

5. A method according to claim 1 wherein the dye solutions optionally comprise anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants; anionic, non-ionic or cationic gelling agents; fatty alcohols, fatty acids, straight, branched or cyclic paraffins; squalene; squalane; cyclosilicones, polydimethylsiloxanes, polyphenyldimethylsiloxanes, polyalkylsiloxanes, elastomers, acrylate/silicone copolymers, methyl trimethicone, polymethylsiloxanes, silicone rubbers, dimethicone copolyols, silicone resins and silicone powders.

6. A method according to claim 5 wherein the dye in solution is formulated as a gel, cream, milk, suspension or mousse.

7. A method according to claim 1 wherein the diluent composition comprises water, surfactants, preservatives and gelling agents.

8. A method according to claim 1 where in the diluent is a mask; an activator or a neutralising agent comprising hydrogen peroxide; a hair colour composition ; a semipermanent straightening agent; or a hair styling composition.

9. A kit comprising two or three separate compositions, each of which contains solely a direct primary dye as defined in claim 1; a diluent composition comprising water, surfactants, preservatives and gelling agents; devices suitable for dispensing, measuring and mixing the primary dyes; and optionally instructions for obtaining the desired tones starting from primary dyes and colour charts for the comparison of colour results.

10. The method according to claim 4, wherein the blue dye is Basic Blue 124 or HC Blue 16.

11. The method according to claim 8, wherein the semipermanent straightening agent is based on alpha-ketoacids or alpha-hydroxy acids.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0025] The dyes which can be used according to the invention are cationic direct dyes having similar chemical/physical and performance characteristics in terms of binding to the hair and colour fading during washing. In particular, the dyes preferably used for blue are Basic Blue 124, HC Blue 16, HC Blue 17 and Basic Blue 75, but more preferably Basic Blue 124 and HC Blue 16; Basic Red 51 is preferably used for magenta, and the dyes preferably used for yellow are Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Yellow 57, more preferably Basic Yellow 87.

[0026] Other dyes that can be used are Basic Orange 31, Basic Red 76, and those described in WO 2014202152.

[0027] The dyes in solution can be dissolved in water and introduced into various cosmetic forms (liquid, gel, cream, milk, suspension or mousse) which can contain anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants; anionic, non-ionic or cationic gelling agents; fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkyl derivatives such as straight, branched and cyclic paraffins; squalene and squalane; cyclosilicones, polydimethylsiloxanes, polyphenyldimethylsiloxanes, polyalkylsiloxanes, elastomers, acrylate/silicone copolymers, methyl trimethicone, polymethylsiloxanes, silicone rubbers, copolyol dimethicones, silicone resins and silicone powders.

[0028] The diluent composition comprises water, surfactants, preservatives and gelling agents.

[0029] The diluent can be a mask; a shampoo; an activator or a neutraliser with hydrogen peroxide; a hair colour composition; a semipermanent straightener, preferably based on alpha-keto acids or alpha-hydroxy acids; a hair-styling composition.

[0030] To minimise errors, the colour created by mixing two or three primary colours can be checked by visual comparison against a colour chart, for example printed on a plasticised backing, or with dedicated software for an application usable on a tablet, smartphone or PC (e.g. for Android, iOS or Windows), using known algorithms.

[0031] The check can be conducted, for example, by applying a thin layer of the colour mixture to a transparent substrate overlaid on a coloured square previously printed or downloaded onto a smartphone, leaving one part uncovered, and comparing the colours, either visually or with a colorimeter, to see whether they fall within acceptable limits.

[0032] The dyeing results obtained from the examples below, expressed in L*a*b* values, were measured with a Minolta Chroma Meter CR-200 colorimeter.

[0033] In the L*a*b* colour space, L* indicates sheen and a* and b* are the colour coordinates. a* and b* indicate the colour directions: +a* is the direction of red, a* is the direction of green, +b* is the direction of yellow and b* is the direction of blue.

[0034] Differences in colour can be expressed by AE values, which are defined by the following equation:

E=[(L.sup.*).sup.2+(a.sup.*).sup.2+(b.sup.*).sup.2].sup.1/2

[0035] In addition to the separate solutions, each of which contains only one primary direct dye and a diluent composition as defined above, the kit according to the invention can contain conventional devices suitable for dispensing, measuring and mixing the primary dyes. Examples of said devices include syringes, droppers, graduated bottles, tubes, vials, graduated cylinders and the like. The kit could also contain instructions for creating the desired tones from the primary dyes, and colour charts for comparing colours, either visually or with software and/or instrumentation.

Examples

[0036] The formulations of the three colours used in the examples are listed below.

TABLE-US-00004 Formulation 1. BLUE PIGMENT Formula A INCI % AQUA Q.s. to 100 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.8 POLYSORBATE 20 0.8 BASIC BLUE 124 0.667 ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN 0.2

TABLE-US-00005 Formulation 2. MAGENTA PIGMENT Formula B INCI % AQUA Q.s. to 100 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.8 POLYSORBATE 20 0.8 BASIC RED 51 1.152 ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN 0.2

TABLE-US-00006 Formulation 3. YELLOW PIGMENT Formula C INCI % AQUA Q.s. to 100 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.8 POLYSORBATE 20 0.8 BASIC YELLOW 87 2.6151 ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN 0.2

TABLE-US-00007 Formulation 4. DILUENT Formula D INCI % AQUA Q.s. to 100 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.8 POLYSORBATE 20 0.8 HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR 1.0 HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN 0.2

[0037] The following mixtures were created, showing the code of the shade created.

TABLE-US-00008 Formulation 5. BLACK 1.0 PIGMENT grams BLUE 3 MAGENTA 1 YELLOW 1 DILUENT 15

[0038] The L*a*b* values obtained are as follows:

TABLE-US-00009 L 20.44 a 0.39 b 1.59

TABLE-US-00010 Formulation 6. DEEP RED 8.65 PIGMENT grams MAGENTA 1 YELLOW 0.5 DILUENT 18.5

[0039] The L*a*b* values obtained are as follows:

TABLE-US-00011 L 31.33 a 33.81 b 15.05

TABLE-US-00012 Formulation 7. DEEP RED 8.66 PIGMENT grams MAGENTA 1 YELLOW 1 DILUENT 18

[0040] The L*a*b* values obtained are as follows:

TABLE-US-00013 L 33.2 a 37.12 b 21.69

TABLE-US-00014 Formulation 8. DEEP COPPER 8.46 PIGMENT grams MAGENTA 1 YELLOW 1.5 DILUENT 18

[0041] The L*a*b* values obtained are as follows:

TABLE-US-00015 L 36.18 a 29.41 b 24.23

TABLE-US-00016 Formulation 9. BROWN Shade 5.0 PIGMENT grams BLUE 0.8 MAGENTA 0.5 YELLOW 0.8 DILUENT 17.9

[0042] The L*a*b* values obtained are as follows:

TABLE-US-00017 L 29.43 a 4.23 b 6.36

TABLE-US-00018 Formulation 10. GOLD Shade 8.34 PIGMENT grams MAGENTA 0.04 YELLOW 6 DILUENT 18

[0043] The L*a*b* values obtained are as follows:

TABLE-US-00019 L 48.18 a 7.56 b 47.58

[0044] The shades reported were used in the following treatments:

[0045] 1Treatment designed to change hair shape with permanent technology,

[0046] 2Treatments designed to change hair shape with semipermanent technology,

[0047] 3Treatment designed to change hair shape with temporary technology,

[0048] 4Hair cleansing treatment,

[0049] 5Hair care, maintenance and beauty treatment,

[0050] 6Treatment designed to dye hair with a permanent or semipermanent hair dye,

[0051] 7Treatment designed to dye hair with the diluent composition,

[0052] 8Treatment with hydrogen peroxide and a heat source.

[0053] 9Styling treatment or hair finishing products. Treatment 1, designed to change the hair shape with permanent technology, can be further divided, depending on the active molecule used, into three different technologies, namely:

[0054] AThioglycolate

[0055] BGuanidine

[0056] CSoda

[0057] Method for Technology 1A: [0058] a) Apply thioglycolate composition and leave to act for 30 minutes [0059] b) Rinse with running water. [0060] c) Create the desired shade by suitably combining Blue, Magenta and Yellow. [0061] d) Add mixture created at point c) to the neutraliser in proportion to the desired depth of colour, and apply the resulting mixture to the hair for 10 minutes. In this specific case, the quantity of neutraliser used corresponds to the quantity of diluent shown in the table. [0062] e) Rinse with running water. [0063] f) Apply conditioner and leave to act for 5 minutes. [0064] g) Dry hair.

[0065] The L*a*b* values obtained are as follows:

TABLE-US-00020 BLACK L 14.68 a 0.69 b 0.72 DEEP RED L 30.32 a 36.76 b 17.62 BROWN L 19.78 a 2.86 b 2.23

[0066] Method for Technology 1B: [0067] a) Mix formulation containing guanidine and the calcium hydroxide formula according to the manufacturer's instructions, [0068] b) Apply mixture obtained at point c) to the hair and leave to act for 30 minutes, [0069] c) Rinse with running water, [0070] d) Apply the specific shampoo recommended by the manufacturer and rinse, [0071] e) Repeat point d) twice more, [0072] f) Create the desired shade by suitably combining Blue, Magenta and Yellow. [0073] g) Add mixture created at point f) to the mask in proportion to the desired depth of colour, and apply the resulting mixture to the hair for 10 minutes. In this specific case, the quantity of conditioning mask used corresponds to the quantity of diluent shown in the table, [0074] h) Rinse with running water, [0075] i) Dry hair.

[0076] The L*a*b* values obtained are as follows:

TABLE-US-00021 BLACK L 16.04 a 1.85 b 0.07 DEEP RED L 28.9 a 39.68 b 20.27 BROWN L 17.17 a 3.56 b 1.67

[0077] Method for Technology 1C: [0078] a) Apply formula containing sodium hydroxide (or an alternative alkalizing agent such as potassium hydroxide) to the hair, comb hair and leave to act for 30 minutes, [0079] b) Rinse with running water. [0080] c) Apply the specific shampoo recommended by the manufacturer and rinse. [0081] d) Create the desired shade by suitably combining Blue, Magenta and Yellow. [0082] e) Add mixture created at point d) to mask in the quantity corresponding to the diluent in the tables. Leave to act for 6 minutes. [0083] f) Rinse with running water.

[0084] g) Dry hair.

[0085] The L*a*b* values obtained are as follows:

TABLE-US-00022 BLACK L 15.35 a 0.92 b 0.42 DEEP RED L 30.42 a 36.25 b 17.58 BROWN L 18.4 a 3.34 b 2.72

[0086] Treatment 2, designed to change the hair shape with semipermanent technology, consists of the following method: [0087] a) Wash hair with shampoo recommended by the manufacturer. [0088] b) Create the desired shade by suitably combining Blue, Magenta and Yellow. [0089] c) Mix the glyoxylic-based straightener with the conditioning mixture obtained at point b) in proportion to the desired depth of colour, and apply to hair for 20 minutes. In this specific case the quantity of straightener was replaced with the same quantity of diluent as shown in the table. [0090] d) Rinse and dry. [0091] e) Run straightening iron over the hair 2 to 20 times, according to the manufacturer's instructions, at a temperature of up to 230 C. [0092] f) Optionally rinse.

[0093] The L*a*b* values obtained are as follows:

TABLE-US-00023 BLACK L 42.61 a 0.28 b 4.65 DEEP RED L 55.78 a 38.02 b 26.58 BROWN L 47.86 a 3.69 b 12.92

[0094] Treatment 3, designed to change the hair shape with temporary technology, consists of the following method: [0095] a) Wash hair with shampoo [0096] b) Create the desired shade by suitably combining Blue, Magenta and Yellow. [0097] c) Apply straightening product based on cysteine, carbocysteine or cysteamine for 30 minutes. [0098] d) Rinse with running water. [0099] e) Apply formulation with hydrogen peroxide mixed with the mixture obtained at point b) and leave to act for 10 minutes. In this specific case the quantity of neutraliser was replaced with the same quantity of diluent as shown in the table. [0100] f) Rinse with running water (do not use shampoo). [0101] g) Dry hair. [0102] h) Use straightening iron according to hair type, 10 times per lock of hair, at a temperature of up to 230 C.

[0103] The L*a*b* values obtained are as follows:

TABLE-US-00024 BLACK L 31.52 a 1.4 b 3.56 DEEP RED L 43.63 a 27.03 b 14.82

[0104] Hair cleansing treatment 4 consists of the following method: [0105] a) Create the desired shade by suitably combining Blue, Magenta and Yellow. [0106] b) Mix the mixture created at point a) with the shampoo in proportion to the desired depth of colour, and apply to the hair for 2 minutes. In this specific case the quantity of shampoo was replaced with the same quantity of diluent as shown in the table. [0107] c) Rinse with running water. [0108] d) Dry hair.

[0109] The L*a*b* values obtained are as follows:

TABLE-US-00025 BLACK L 43.2 a 1.57 b 0.17 DEEP RED L 54.14 a 13.55 b 11.67 BROWN L 50.49 a 0.96 b 7.81

[0110] Hair care and beauty treatment 5 consists of the following method: [0111] a) Create the desired shade by suitably combining Blue, Magenta and Yellow. [0112] b) Mix the mixture created at point a) with the conditioner or mask in proportion to the desired depth of colour, and apply to the hair for 5 minutes. In this specific case the quantity of conditioner was replaced with the same quantity of diluent as shown in the table. [0113] c) Rinse with running water. [0114] d) Dry hair.

[0115] The L*a*b* values obtained are as follows:

TABLE-US-00026 BLACK L 22.69 a 0.32 b 1.25 DEEP RED L 36.26 a 32.9 b 21.24 BROWN L 28.82 a 0.99 b 6.81

[0116] Treatment 6, designed to colour hair with a permanent or semipermanent dye, consists of the following method: [0117] a) Create the desired shade by suitably combining Blue, Magenta and Yellow. [0118] b) Mix oxidative dye with the composition of mixture a) in proportion to the desired depth of colour. [0119] c) Mix the mixture obtained at point b) with a suitable activator in the proportion recommended by the manufacturer, and apply to hair. Leave to act for 30 minutes. [0120] d) Rinse with running water. [0121] e) Dry hair.

[0122] The data set out below were obtained with and without the composition of formulation 11, used as tone intensifier.

TABLE-US-00027 Formulation 11. grams MAGENTA 5 YELLOW 5 PERMANENT DYE 50 ACTIVATOR 90

TABLE-US-00028 TABLE 4 L* a* b* dL* da* db* dE*ab COLOUR RESULT 17.39 3.99 4.07 1.34 2.27 2.16 3.41 for Formulation 11

TABLE-US-00029 Formulation 12. PIGMENT grams MAGENTA 13.5 YELLOW 13.5 SEMIPERMANENT DYE 33 ACTIVATOR 120

TABLE-US-00030 TABLE 5 L* a* b* dL* da* db* dE*ab COLOUR RESULT 27.7 15.66 18.7 6.3 10.65 11.61 16.97 for Formulation 12

[0123] Treatment 8, with hydrogen peroxide and a heat source, consists of the following method: [0124] a) Create the desired shade by suitably combining Blue, Magenta and Yellow, [0125] b) Mix the mixture obtained at point a) with hydrogen peroxide in proportion to the desired depth of colour and apply to hair, [0126] c) Apply a heat source to the hair, preferably with a straightening iron, up to 230 C., and run it over the hair at least 5 times, [0127] d) Rinse with running water, [0128] e) Dry hair.

[0129] Styling or hair finishing product treatment 9 consists of the following method: [0130] a) Create the desired shade by suitably combining Blue, Magenta and Yellow, [0131] b) Mix the mixture obtained at point a) with the styling product (gel, mousse, cream, liquid or paste) or the finishing product (oil, silicone composition, suspension or aqueous liquid) in proportion to the desired depth of colour, and apply to hair.

Comparative Example

Effect of pH on Performance

[0132]

TABLE-US-00031 FORMULA E - not part of the invention INCI % AQUA Q.s. to 100 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.8 POLYSORBATE 20 0.8 HC BLUE 15 0.3 ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN 0.2

TABLE-US-00032 Formula F INCI % AQUA Q.s. to 100 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.8 POLYSORBATE 20 0.8 HC BLUE 16 0.3 ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN 0.2

TABLE-US-00033 Formula G INCI % AQUA Q.s. to 100 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.8 POLYSORBATE 20 0.8 BASIC BLUE 124 0.3 ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN 0.2

[0133] Three black shades were created with BLUE PIGMENT containing HC BLUE 15 (FORMULA E), HC BLUE 16 (FORMULA F) and BASIC BLUE 124 (FORMULA G), and combined with the RED PIGMENT (FORMULA B) and YELLOW PIGMENT (FORMULA C) respectively. Comparison of formulations 13, 14 and 15 (BLACK 1.0)

TABLE-US-00034 BLACK with BLACK with BLACK with formulation formulation formulation 13 14 15 PIGMENT BLACK E BLACK F BLACK G BLUE with formula E 3 g BLUE with formula F 3 g BLUE with formula G 3 g MAGENTA 1 g 1 g 1 g YELLOW 1 g 1 g 1 g DILUENT 15 g 15 g 15 g

[0134] The three black shades created with the three different blue pigments give a hair-lock colour with the following L a b values

TABLE-US-00035 TABLE 6 L* a* b* BLACK formulation 13 27.8 15.66 16.5 BLACK formulation 14 27.3 15.66 17.9 BLACK formulation 15 27.7 15.66 18.7

[0135] The three black shades mixed with an acid treatment as for treatment 2, designed to change the hair shape with semipermanent technology, gave the following colour:

TABLE-US-00036 TABLE 7 Colour BLACK formulation 13 Blue-black BLACK formulation 14 Black BLACK formulation 14 Black

[0136] The three black shades mixed with a basic treatment such as treatment 6, designed to colour hair with a permanent or semipermanent dye, gave the following colour:

TABLE-US-00037 TABLE 8 Colour BLACK formulation 13 Greenish-brown BLACK formulation 14 Black BLACK formulation 15 Black

[0137] As will be seen from table 7 and table 8, the BLACK of formulation 13 undergoes a colour change if used at different pH values, whereas the BLACK of formulations 14 and 15 maintains the same tone at the two different pH values.