Natural Skincare Compositions

Abstract

The topical cosmetic compositions and methods of the subject invention can be used to improve the health and/or appearance of skin by, for example, treating and/or preventing a variety of skin conditions. The invention also provides compositions and methods for enhanced sunless tanning. Biological amphiphilic molecules are used as active components, formulation enhancers and/or delivery vessels for skin active components.

Claims

1. A topical cosmetic composition comprising an effective amount of one or more biological amphiphilic molecules (BAMs), a dermatologically-acceptable carrier, and one or more active and/or inactive cosmetic ingredients; wherein the BAMs are glycolipids, lipopeptides and/or phospholipids; wherein the glycolipids are selected from mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs), sophorolipids (SLPs), trehalose lipids (TLs) and rhamnolipids (RLPs); and wherein the lipopeptides are selected from surfactin, iturin, lichenysin and fengycin.

2-5. (canceled)

6. The composition of claim 1, wherein the phospholipid is a cardiolipin, a lecithin or a phosphatidylglycerol.

7-8. (canceled)

9. The composition of claim 1, comprising a glycolipid and a phospholipid.

10. The composition of claim 9, wherein the glycolipid is a MEL and/or a SLP and the phospholipid is a cardiolipin and/or a phosphatidylglycerol.

11. The composition of claim 1, wherein the dermatologically acceptable carrier is selected from water, saline, alcohols, aqueous suspensions, oil-based suspensions, water-in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions, silicone-in-water emulsions, water-in-silicone emulsions, wax-in-water emulsions, water-oil-water triple nanoemulsions and microemulsions.

12. The composition of claim 1, wherein the active and/or inactive cosmetic additive is selected from organic solvents, silicones, pH adjusters, chelating agents, gelling agents, proteins, vitamins, emollients, oils, hydroxy acids, exfoliants, retinoids, viscosity modifiers, polymers, minerals, insect repellents, lubricants, preservatives, botanicals, clarifying agents, humectants, non-biological surfactants, antioxidants, thickeners, softeners, sunscreens, moisturizers, dyes, colorants, fragrances, abrasives, absorbents, aesthetic components such as essential oils, skin sensates, astringents, anti-acne agents, anti-caking agents, antifoaming agents, antimicrobial agents, depigmenting agents, anti-inflammatory agents, advanced glycation end-product (AGE) inhibitors, steroids, binders, biological additives, buffering agents, bulking agents, chelating agents, chemical additives, denaturants, external analgesics, keratolytic agents, desquamating agents, keratinocyte proliferation enhancers, collagenase inhibitors, elastase inhibitors, film formers or materials, opacifying agents, propellants, reducing agents, enzymes, sequestrants, skin bleaching and lightening agents, skin-conditioning agents, skin soothing and/or healing agents, thickeners, tanning active components, minerals, vitamins and derivatives thereof

13. The composition of claim 1, wherein the composition is formulated as a liquid, cream, gel, ointment, wipe, lotion, soap, shampoo, conditioner, spray, aerosol, foam, serum, patch, elixir or mask and wherein the formulation is suitable for direct application to human skin.

14. (canceled)

15. The composition of claim 1, wherein the BAMs are active ingredients for improving skin texture, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, and/or controlling microorganisms.

16. (canceled)

17. The composition of claim 1, wherein the BAMs are formed into liposomes that can transport skin actives across skin layers and/or that can serve as active ingredients.

18. A method for improving the health and/or appearance of a subject's skin, wherein the method comprises applying a composition of claim 1 directly to the subject's skin.

19-25. (canceled)

26. The method of claim 18, wherein the phospholipid is a cardiolipin, a lecithin or a phosphatidylglycerol.

27-28. (canceled)

29. The method of claim 18, wherein the composition comprises a glycolipid and a phospholipid.

30. The method of claim 29, wherein the glycolipid is a MEL and/or a SLP and the phospholipid is a cardiolipin and/or a phosphatidylglycerol.

31. The method of claim 18, wherein skin health and/or appearance is improved by reducing a sign of aging selected from facial lines, fine lines, wrinkles, crow's feet, dark eye circles, blemishes, age spots, stretch marks, sagging, dryness, weakened skin barrier repair properties, and combinations thereof, and/or wherein improved skin health and/or appearance comprises increasing and/or improving one or more of: skin thickness, elasticity, resiliency, moisturization, tone, texture, radiance, luster, brightness, clarity, contour, uniformity, firmness, tautness, suppleness, softness, sensitivity, pore size, reduction in water loss, and combinations thereof.

32-33. (canceled)

34. The method of claim 18, wherein improved skin health and/or appearance comprises treating and/or preventing a skin condition selected from psoriasis, eczema, dermatitis, sunburn, estrogen imbalance, hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation, discoloration, yellowing, freckles, skin atrophy, skin breakout, skin fragility, dryness, chapping, sagginess, thinning, hyperplasia, fibrosis, enlarged pores, cellulite formation, bruising, acne formation, acne scars, apoptosis, cellular differentiation, cellular de-differentiation, prevention of tumor induction or tumor progression, viral infections, fungal infections, bacterial infections, spider veins (telangectasia), hirsutism, rosacea, pruritis, insect bites or stings, calluses, warts, corns, photodamage, scars, keloids, lupus, ichtiosis, atopic dermatitis, chronic wounds, bed sores, keratosis piralis, sebaceous cysts, vitiligo, melisma, warts, inflammatory dermatoses, post inflammatory hyperpigmentation, keratoses, eczema, xerosis, lichen planus, nodular prurigo, microbial infection, body odor, seborrheic dermatitis, dandruff and miliaria, and allergic reactions.

35. A method for providing a sunless tan to a subject's skin, wherein the method comprises applying a composition comprising one or more BAMs, a dermatologically acceptable carrier, and a tanning active component, directly to the subject's skin.

36. The method of claim 35, wherein the tanning active component is DHA and/or erythrulose.

37. The method of claim 35, wherein the composition is formulated as, an aerosol spray, a spray gel, a lotion, a cream, a mousse, a serum, a gel, a powder, and/or impregnated into a sponge, wet wipe, towelette or roller ball.

38. (canceled)

Description

EXAMPLES

[0192] A greater understanding of the present invention and of its many advantages may be had from the following examples, given by way of illustration. The following examples are illustrative of some of the methods, applications, embodiments and variants of the present invention. They are not to be considered as limiting the invention.

Example 1

Sunless Tanning Formulation

[0193] Sunless tanning compositions are topical compositions applied to skin to increase the pigmentation of the skin. The result is a temporary “suntan” without the use of UV or other radiative light.

[0194] In certain embodiments, the present invention provides for a topical sunless tanning formulation comprising one or more BAMs. Methods for providing a sunless tan to a subject's skin are also provided, wherein the sunless tanning composition is applied directly to the subject's skin. Preferably, the composition is applied to the skin evenly and uniformly on all parts of the skin where increased pigmentation is desired.

[0195] The methods of the subject invention can be used to reduce the risk of sun burn and sun-related skin cancers by reducing a subject's desire to sunbathe.

[0196] The sunless tanning composition of the subject invention can be formulated as, for example, an aerosol spray, a spray gel, a lotion, a foam, a cream, a mousse, a serum, a gel, a powder, and/or impregnated into a sponge, wet wipe, towelette or roller ball.

[0197] Additionally, the composition can be applied by a professional tanning salon using pressurized sunless tanning sprays. These sunless tanning sprays can be delivered over the entire body in the form of a mist, either in an enclosed booth or with a hand-held spray apparatus.

[0198] In preferred embodiments, the sunless tanning composition comprises a BAM at, for example, from 0.1% to 50% by weight, or from 0.5% to 25% by weight, or from 1.0% to 15% by weight, or from 2.0% to 10% by weight, or 3% to 5% by weight. In certain preferred embodiments, the BAM is a sophorolipid. The sophorolipid can contain a mixture of lactonic SLP, linear SLP, and/or derivatives thereof. In certain embodiments, the ratio can range from, for example, 0:1 to 1:10, or 1:4 to 1:5, linear to lactonic SLP.

[0199] Advantageously, the BAM can help maintain the composition as an emulsion, meaning it is resistant to phase separation after sitting at room temperature for a period of time include several months (e.g., from 2 to 24 months). Additionally, the BAM can maintain a sufficiently low viscosity allowing for ease of application without causing foaming. Furthermore, the BAMs can enhance application and appearance of the sunless tanning formulation by, for example, acting as a wetting agent for skin, reducing streaking, improving dispersion of active tanning components, and improving durability, sticking and penetration of coloring agents when applied to the skin.

[0200] In certain embodiments, the BAM is used in place of, or in addition to, a surfactant, including, for example, those listed elsewhere in this Description, and glycerol stearate, glycerol monostearate, polysorbate, e.g., Tween 60, polyoxyethylene stearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0201] In preferred embodiments, the composition comprises a tanning active component, so that when the composition is applied to the skin, the skin becomes darker in appearance. Non-limiting examples of tanning active components include dihydroxyacetone (DHA), 1,3,4-trihydroxy-2-butanone (Erythrulose), and botanical extracts such as Betula alba and Eclipta alba, walnut oil, jojoba, vanilla, black tea and coffee.

[0202] The tanning active component can be included in the sunless tanning composition in an amount to provide a desired level of skin darkening. In certain embodiments, the tanning active component can be included in the sunless tanning composition at about 0.1% to about 25% by weight, or about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, or about 1.0% to about 15% by weight.

[0203] In certain embodiments, the BAM helps provide a sustained release of the tanning active component so that lower levels of the active can be used to provide the desired effect. Additional, certain tanning active components can be irritating to skin at certain higher levels; thus, in some embodiments, the BAM can be useful for reducing skin irritation as a result of such applications.

[0204] In some embodiments, active tanning components can have an unpleasant odor. DHA is known for this property. Accordingly, it may be necessary to include a fragrance component and/or an odor counteractant in the sunless tanning composition. Examples of fragrances include aromatic materials extracted from botanical sources (i.e. rose petals, gardenia blossoms, jasmine flowers, etc.), which can be used alone or in any combination to create essential oils. Alternatively, alcoholic extracts may be prepared for compounding fragrances. One or more fragrances can optionally be included in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.001 to about 10% by weight, or about 0.05 to about 5% by weight.

[0205] In addition, an odor counteractant can be used to render the sunless tanning composition relatively odorless. An exemplary odor counteractant that can be used is available under the name Ordenone from Bell Aire Fragrances. If the composition includes an odor counteractant, it can be included in an amount sufficient to counteract certain odors, e.g., about 0.05% to about 1% by weight.

[0206] In some embodiments, the sunless tanning composition can further comprise skin bonding components, maximizers, tingles, optimizers and accelerators to enhance the appearance and/or prolong the life of the sunless tanning effects.

[0207] In a specific embodiment, the composition comprises a polymeric skin bonding component, which holds the tanning active component in exposure to skin tissue for sufficient length of time to allow the tanning active component to provide a darkening effect to the skin. For example, the skin bonding component can allow the tanning component to adhere to the skin for at least 1 hour, to at least 4 hours or at least 8 hours. Advantageously, skin bonding components can reduce the time after application of the tanning composition in which a subject can shower without washing off the tanning composition.

[0208] The skin bonding component can be included in the sunless tanning composition in an amount to provide a desired level of skin darkening. In certain embodiments, the skin bonding component can be included in the sunless tanning composition at about 0.1% to about 50% by weight, or about 0.5% to about 30% by weight, or about 1.0% to about 25% by weight. In certain embodiments, the BAM of the present invention can enhance and/or replace a polymeric skin bonding component.

[0209] In some embodiments, the sunless tanning composition comprises a pH adjuster in an amount to provide a desired pH of about 3.0 to about 5.0 (e.g., an amount of about 0.1% to about 0.5% by weight). The pH adjuster can be, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, or combinations thereof.

[0210] In some embodiments, the sunless tanning composition comprises water in an amount sufficient to allow the composition to be applied to skin while providing the desired coverage of the tanning active component over the skin. The water component can be provided as, e.g., deionized water, filtered water, distilled water, reverse osmosis water, or tap water. In the event that the water includes hardness or other components, it may be desirable to include builders, sequestrants, and chelating agents to handle the water hardness. In general, the sunless tanning composition can include at least about 50% to 95% water by weight, or about 65% to about 90% water by weight.

[0211] In some embodiments, the sunless tanning composition comprises a coloring agent, such as a dye, pigment or tint. The sunless tanning composition can contain the water-soluble color dye (color indicator) in an amount sufficient to enable the composition to be readily visualized (i.e. colored) when initially applied to the skin, such that when the emulsion dries after being spread on the skin and/or is rubbed out using one's hand and/or fingers, the color substantially disappears. One or more coloring agents can be used in the composition in an amount of about 0.00001 to about 0.5% by weight of the composition, or about 0.0001 to about 0.2%, or about 0.001 to about 0.1%.

[0212] In some embodiments, the sunless tanning composition optionally comprises one or more of: a thickener at about, e.g., 0.1% to about 2.0% by weight, or about 0.5% to about 1.0% by weight; an emollient at about, e.g., 0.5% by weight to about 3% by weight, or about 1% to about 2% by weight; a moisturizer at about, e.g., 0.5% to 5.0% by weight, or about 1.0% to about 2.5% by weight; a preservatives at about, e.g., 0.25% to about 1.0% by weight, or about 0.3% to about 0.5% by weight; an antioxidant at about, e.g., 0.1% to 1.0% by weight, or about 0.2% to about 0.8% by weight; and/or a chelating agent at about, e.g., 0.001 to about 0.1% by weight.