Manufacturing woven textile products
12392061 ยท 2025-08-19
Assignee
Inventors
- Brian J. GORMLEY (San Francisco, CA, US)
- Christopher P. MEADOWS (Richmond, CA, US)
- Daniel J. BLACHINSKY (Squamish, CA)
- Ian L. FONG (San Francisco, CA, US)
- Nicholas L. H. FLEMING (Oakland, CA, US)
- Miles C. D. PEKALA (San Francisco, CA, US)
- John R. PRESCOTT (San Francisco, CA, US)
- Kevin P. MARTIN (San Francisco, CA, US)
- Elizabeth ESPONNETTE (Berkeley, CA, US)
- Diego VASQUEZ (Antioch, CA, US)
Cpc classification
D10B2403/0333
TEXTILES; PAPER
International classification
Abstract
A circular loom for continuously weaving fabric with a varying diameter includes a variable diameter weaving ring, independently actuated heddles, and at least one shuttle including a weft insertion arm attached to a linear rail system configured to adjust the position of weft insertion arm based on a diameter of weaving ring. An associated method includes varying the diameter of weaving ring, independently actuating heddles and adjusting the position of weft insertion arm along linear rail system to continuously produce hollow textile products having variable diameters.
Claims
1. A circular loom for continuously weaving fabric with varying diameter, the loom comprising; a variable diameter weaving ring; a set of independently actuated heddles each configured to control a shed of a warp line; at least one shuttle including a weft insertion arm, wherein the weft insertion arm is configured to adjust with a changing diameter of the weaving ring; and a control system for controlling actions of the weft insertion arm, the set of independently actuated heddles, the weaving ring, and the at least one shuttle in response to the changing diameter of the weaving ring, wherein the control system electronically synchronizes the actions of the heddles, the weaving ring, and the at least one shuttle.
2. The circular loom of claim 1, further comprising a rail for supporting the weft insertion arm and an actuator to linearly adjust the weft insertion arm along the rail.
3. The circular loom of claim 1, further comprising an array of magnetic sensors employed in synchronizing the actions the heddles, the weaving ring, and the at least one shuttle.
4. The circular loom of claim 1, wherein the control system is configured to establish the actions of the heddles, weaving ring, and the at least one shuttle based on weave instructions created in accordance with desired properties of a woven fabric product.
5. The circular loom of claim 1, wherein the control system includes at least two of a master loom control board, a heddle control board, a shuttle control board, and a weaving ring control board.
6. The circular loom of claim 1, further comprising two support arms mounted for synchronous motion, wherein each support arm includes a pivotable mounted guide configured to slidably support the variable diameter weaving ring.
7. The circular loom of claim 6, wherein each guide includes multiple fingers or rollers configured to support the variable diameter weaving ring.
8. The circular loom of claim 6, wherein the variable diameter weaving ring is made of a flexible band.
9. The circular loom of claim 8, further comprising a take-up mechanism and wherein a portion of the flexible band is placed in a circle to form the variable diameter weaving ring and a portion of the flexible band is stored on the take up mechanism, whereby the diameter of the weaving ring is increased by moving the support arms and some of the flexible band from the take up mechanism.
10. The circular loom of claim 1, wherein the at least one shuttle includes a sensor for detecting weft breakage.
11. The circular loom of claim 1, wherein the control system is configured to dynamically adjust the diameter of the variable diameter weaving ring based on a desired output.
12. The circular loom of claim 11, wherein the control system is configured to communicate with at least one shuttle to control a weft insertion point based on the diameter of the weaving ring.
13. The circular loom of claim 12, wherein the control system is configured to communicate with the set of independently actuated heddles to control shedding of the warp lines to achieve a desired weave pattern.
14. A method for continuously weaving fabric with varying diameter with a circular loom including a weaving ring, a set of heddles and at least one shuttle said method comprising: varying a diameter of the weaving ring; independently actuating the set of heddles to control a shed of a warp line; adjusting a position of a weft insertion arm for the at least one shuttle with a changing diameter of the weaving ring; controlling actions of the weft insertion arm, the set of heddles, the weaving ring, and the at least one shuttle in response to the changing diameter of the weaving ring; and electronically synchronizing the actions of the heddles, the weaving ring and the at least one shuttle.
15. The method according to claim 14, wherein the circular loom includes a rail for supporting the weft insertion arm, said method further comprising controlling an actuator to adjust the weft insertion arm along the rail.
16. The method according to claim 15, further comprising adjusting a position of the weft insertion arm with an actuator to linearly move the weft insertion arm along the rail.
17. The method according to claim 14, further comprising electronically synchronizing the actions of the heddles, the weaving ring, and the at least one shuttle based on instructions created in accordance with desired properties of a woven fabric product.
18. The method according to claim 14, wherein the loom includes two support arms, wherein varying the diameter of the weaving ring includes moving the support arms in a synchronous manner.
19. The method according to claim 18, wherein loom includes a take-up mechanism, the weaving ring is made of a flexible band and a portion of the band is mounted on the take-up mechanism, and wherein varying the diameter of the weaving ring further comprises increasing the diameter of the weaving ring by moving the support arms away from a center of the weaving ring and moving a portion of the flexible band from the take-up mechanism.
20. The method according to claim 14, further comprising actuating each said heddle with an individual actuator located on a respective said heddle.
21. The method according to claim 14, wherein the at least one shuttle includes a sensor, and the method further comprises detecting weft breakage with the sensor.
22. The method according to claim 14, further comprising dynamically adjusting the diameter of the weaving ring based on a desired output and controlling a weft insertion point based on the diameter of the weaving ring.
23. The method according to claim 22, further comprising communicating with the set of independently actuated heddles to control shedding of the warp lines to achieve a desired weave pattern.
Description
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
(1) The disclosure may be more completely understood in consideration of the following description of various illustrative embodiments in connection with the accompanying drawings.
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DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
(18) The following detailed description should be read with reference to the drawings in which similar elements in different drawings are numbered the same. The detailed description and the drawings, which are not necessarily to scale, depict illustrative embodiments and are not intended to limit the scope of the disclosure. Instead, the illustrative embodiments depicted are intended only as exemplary. Selected features of any illustrative embodiment may be incorporated into another embodiment unless clearly stated to the contrary. While the disclosure is amenable to various modifications and alternative forms, specifics thereof have been shown by way of example in the drawings and will be described in detail. It should be understood, however, that the intention is not to limit aspects of the disclosure to the particular illustrative embodiments described. On the contrary, the intention is to cover all modifications, equivalents and alternatives falling within the spirit and scope of the disclosure.
Definitions
(19) As used throughout this application, the singular forms a, an and the include plural forms unless the content clearly dictates otherwise. In addition, the term or is generally employed in its sense including and/or unless the content clearly dictates otherwise.
(20) Yarn refers to any string-like input to the weaving process. Yarn is a generic term for a continuous strand of textile fibers, filaments, or material in a form suitable for knitting, weaving, braiding, or otherwise intertwining to form a textile fabric and is often used interchangeably with threads and lines.
(21) Weave refers to a system, or pattern of intersecting warp and filling yarns. The term, Weave, is used to describe a large area of textiles that are not knitted or are non-woven fabrics. Plain, twill, and satin are all types of weaves.
(22) Weft and warp are terms that refer to the constituent yarns within a weave. The warp yarns run longitudinally to the direction of production while the weft yards run latitudinally to the direction of production and are sometimes called filling yarns.
(23) Threads per inch is a measure of density of a fabric.
(24) Ends per inch (EPI) is a similar measurement used when looking at the warp yarns while picks per inch (PPI) is used when looking at the weft yarn.
(25) Heddles refers to structures usually shaped as a loop or eyelet that is able to control the movement (shedding) of the warp yarns. The specific construction of a heddle can vary within different machines.
(26) Shed refers to a temporary separation between upper and lower warp yarns and is often used interchangeably with warp shed. A warp shed is also a triangularly shaped opening formed in the warp lines as the heddles move. The term also is often used as a verb to describe the action of the upper and lower warp yarns switching positions.
(27) A shuttle is a movable loom component that acts as a carriage for the weft line and travels through the warp shed to deposit the weft line.
(28) Weft insertion refers to the act of inserting weft into a weave usually via a shuttle with a weft bobbin.
(29) Weft insertion point refers to a point set radial distance away from the weaving ring, where the weft is deposited.
(30) Crimp refers to the waviness of a fiber. More specifically, crimp is the measure of the degree of waviness present in the yarns inside a woven fabric due to interlacement.
(31) Cover factor refers to the ratio of area covered by the yarns to the total area of the fabric.
Overview
(32)
(33) With reference to
Variable Diameter Weaving Ring
(34) Turning now to
(35) As best seen in
(36) Support arms 130 move in synchronism to achieve a proper weaving action. A chain drive 195 (see
(37) Support arms 130 passively follow the shape of flexible band 125. Support arms 130 function to provide support along output axis 196 of loom 10. Alternatively, support arms 130 may be moved with either a single actuator moving all of support arms 130 or each arm could be fitted with an individual actuator. Each arm of support arms 130 is preferably provided with a joint encoder 230 (
(38) As best shown in
(39) As shown in
(40) The flexible band forming weaving ring 45 must be stiff enough to withstand lateral torsional buckling, but flexible enough in the length axis to allow for bending. More specifically, variable diameter weaving ring 45 is stiff enough to avoid lateral torsional buckling under loading of warp lines 80 yet is flexible enough to curl into small diameters around output axis 196 (
(41) To synchronize the motion of the weaving ring 45 and the weft shuttle, loom 10 is equipped with one or more sensors configured to directly detect the presence of one or more shuttles at a known angular position within loom 10. In one embodiment, the shuttles may be equipped with a magnet, which is detected by a stationary magnetic sensor placed on the periphery of loom 10. The detection of a shuttle by the magnetic sensor is communicated to weaving ring control board 253 via synchronization control signal 72, which upon receiving communication, may choose to perform a desired command.
Weft Insertion Arm
(42)
(43) Referring back to
(44) As best seen in
Weft Break Sensor
(45) Referring back to
Electronic Control
(46) As seen in
The Heddles
(47) On a standard circular loom, heddle units are mechanically coupled to the motion of a main core rotor and the shuttles via a cam track and lever arms. Individual heddle control is known in a linear loom, see US Patent Application Publication No 2020/0048799, incorporated herein by reference. In circular loom 10, heddle units 20 (
(48) As best seen in
(49) The Jacquard mechanisms are integrated into heddle units 20. Each of heddle units 20 has an individual drive motor 550 and is therefore modular. Heddle units 20 may be placed in a variety of positions on the loom and replaced as needed. Preferably thirty-six individual units are mounted in loom 10. Each heddle unit preferably has at least 18 functional heddles 500 and each warp line is routed through a single heddle eyelet, allowing heddle unit 20 to control opening and closing of warp shed 231 (
(50) This arrangement allows for the opening and closing of shed profile 231 separately from the motion of shuttles 15. As such the weave pattern in fabric product 100 can be varied. Loom 10 can weave patterns where multiple weft passes are made during a single warp shed opening, such as a basket weave. Common twill weaves can also be accomplished, including 21, 31, and 42 weaves. Certain twill weaves have reduced weft crossings and changing between these twill patterns allows for controlling the effective circumference of the fabric.
(51) In an alternative embodiment shown in
(52) In this embodiment, the heddle units 20 may be mechanically coupled to the motion of the main core with mechanical transmission 620. The heddle units 20 may optionally be electronically coupled to the motion of the main core, using synchronization methods previously described, or using other means known in the art such as encoders. In either approach, the individually actuated heddles are still electronically synchronized with the motion of the main core, the weaving ring, and the shuttles, thus allowing varying weave patterns to be created.
(53) As best seen in
(54) During operation, with general reference to the figures described above, when fabric 100 is to be woven, master controller 70 determines an angular position for support arms 130 based on a desired diameter of variable diameter weaving ring 45. If the diameter of weaving ring 45 is to be reduced, take up winder 252 will wind up excess band material 190 until a target position value is detected by the joint encoder 230 on support arms 130. Conversely if the diameter of weaving ring 45 is increasing, take-up winder 252 will let out excess band material 190 while chain drive 195 moves support arms 130 to a desired position. Adjustments to the weaving ring diameter are made dynamically while weaving, based on a desired output set by control system 70. Weft shuttles 15 are powered by a main motor (not separately shown) on loom 10 to move shuttles 15 along a guiding track (also not shown). Each weft shuttle 15 deposits weft yarn 85 near variable diameter weaving ring 45 from weft bobbin 280 on shuttle 15. Heddle units 20 transition before and after weft shuttle 15 has passed. Weft shuttle 15 is encapsulated within warp shed 231 as best seen in
(55) In order to create woven fabric product 100, the weave patterns of heddle units 20, diameter of weaving ring 45, and position of shuttle weft insertion arm 50, must all vary in a synchronized fashion. To accomplish this, a counter-based approach may be employed. In this paradigm, heddle units 20, weaving ring 45, and weft shuttle 15 are all equipped with separate control boards, which taken together with loom controller 70, comprise a distributed control system. Loom controller 70 sends separate weave instructions to heddle unit control board 522, weaving ring control board 253, and shuttle control board 325, where the instructions are then performed locally in response to the synchronization control signal 71. This allows each device to maintain a synchronized count reflecting the number of times synchronization control signal 71 has been received, thus ensuring that all devices are performing their desired actions in coordination. The weave instructions may be configured such that desired actions are only performed at specified count values. The weave instructions may be created in advance, in accordance with desired properties of woven fabric product 100 or set directly by an operator while weaving.
(56) The product 100 may be attached to other sections of weave to form a garment 700 as best seen in
(57) As noted above, the previously employed circular looms are designed to weave at a fixed output size which creates a fabric shape with a constant diameter. Such looms can be reconfigured to weave at different diameters, but several components of the loom would have to be replaced and the loom would have to be rethreaded to make such a change in diameter. Due to this constraint, such looms cannot continuously weave fabric with varying diameter. Based on the above it should be readily apparent that the subject loom, having a variable diameter weaving ring and independently actuated heddles, is able to continuously weave fabric whose diameter varies along the length of the fabric as it is produced.
(58) Various other changes may be made in the final product. For example, the output fabric density also dictates both the final size and quality of woven fabric product and can be changed in the preferred embodiments described above. Fabric density is defined in the textile industry as Ends Per Inch (EPI) and is a count of the number of warp lines per inch of fabric. To maintain fabric appearance and quality, EPI of the output fabric must be kept quasi-constant across all weaving diameters; this is accomplished via thread manipulation methods such as thread packing or thread dropping. Because the above-described methodologies involve individual control of warp lines, independently actuated heddles must be utilized such as those described above. In thread packing, multiple adjacent lines will move in tandem, effectively behaving as a single line while they are included into the weave. In thread dropping, lines are selectively left out of the weave and are later trimmed from the output fabric. Varying weave patterns between common twill configurations, such as 21, 31, and 42 can also be used to reduce the number of weft crossings for an intended weave diameter, thus reducing the effective woven circumference of the fabric.
(59) With the construction and operation detailed above, the circular loom of the invention can directly weave components of garments such as single pant legs, shirt sleeves, dresses etc. Complete garments can be advantageously, directly woven on demand.