ENGINEERED SHOE OR APPAREL

Abstract

A method of producing a component for an article of footwear or apparel or a sporting goods accessory. The method of producing a component includes forming at least a first layer by braiding a first braided tube. Braiding may be performed with an empty braiding center. The method further includes arranging the first layer on a form.

Claims

1. A component for an article of footwear or apparel, or a sporting goods accessory, comprising: a first layer, wherein the first layer comprises a first braided element; and a second layer.

2. The component according to claim 1, wherein the second layer comprises a second braided element.

3. The component according to claim 2, wherein the first braided element comprises a first yarn of a first type and the second braided element comprises a second yarn of a second type.

4. The component according to claim 3, wherein the first yarn of the first type has a first elastic modulus and the second yarn of the second type has a second elastic modulus, and wherein the second elastic modulus is greater than the first elastic modulus.

5. The component according to claim 1, wherein the second layer comprises a non-woven.

6. The component according to claim 1, wherein the second layer comprises a thermoplastic.

7. The component according to claim 1, wherein the second layer is arranged above the first layer.

8. A shoe, comprising: a component according to claim 1, and a sole element.

Description

SHORT DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

[0088] In the following, exemplary embodiments of the invention are described with reference to the figures. The figures show:

[0089] FIGS. 1A-D: an exemplary method of producing a component for an article of footwear or apparel or a sporting goods accessory according to the present invention.

[0090] FIGS. 2A and B: an exemplary shoe upper (FIG. 2A) produced by a method according to the present invention and an exemplary shoe (FIG. 2B) produced by a method according to the present invention.

[0091] FIG. 3: an exemplary graph showing the circumference of a braided tube produced by a method according to the present invention for different production settings.

[0092] FIGS. 4A-C: an illustration of a braiding angle of a braided element (FIG. 4A) and a method for controlling the braiding angle (FIGS. 4B and 4C).

[0093] FIG. 5: an exemplary shoe comprising an exemplary component according to the present invention.

[0094] FIGS. 6a-d: an exemplary shoe upper and method for producing the same according to the present invention.

[0095] FIGS. 7a-c: an exemplary method of producing a component for an article of footwear or apparel according to the present invention.

[0096] FIGS. 8A-B: an exemplary shoe upper according to the present invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EXEMPLARY EMBODIMENTS

[0097] In the following only some possible examples of the invention are described in detail. It is to be understood that these exemplary embodiments can be modified in a number of ways and combined with each other whenever compatible and that certain features may be omitted in so far as they appear dispensable. While in the following the invention is described primarily with reference to a shoe, it should be noted that the teachings of the invention also apply to apparel, for example sleeves, shirts, gloves, hats, shinguards, etc.

[0098] FIGS. 1A-D show an exemplary method of producing a component 19 for an article of footwear or apparel or a sporting goods accessory, comprising: forming at least a first layer by braiding a first braided tube 16, wherein braiding is performed with an empty braiding center 13; and arranging the first layer L1 on a form 18.

[0099] FIGS. 1A-B show an exemplary braiding machine 11 suitable for performing part of the method according to the present invention. Any braiding machine can be used to construct the tube. In this example, a “radial braider” or radial braiding machine 11 is used. The braiding yarn packages 12 are mounted radially around the braiding center 13.

[0100] In the context of the present invention, braiding with an empty braiding center 13 means braiding without a form 18 at the braiding center 13. In particular, braiding with an empty braiding center 13 means not braiding over a forming mandrel or a shoe last at the braiding center 13. Braiding with an empty braiding center 13 may involve a braiding ring 17 located around the braiding center 13 to guide the yarns 15. The braiding ring 17 may be located on an outer side of the braided tube 16 during braiding.

[0101] FIG. 1B shows a close-up around the braiding center 13. A take-up device 14 is used to pull the braided tube 16 away from the braiding center 13.

[0102] The selection of yarns and the number of yarn packages used in the braiding setup will determine a default diameter of the resulting braided tube 16 and prevent the tube from collapsing. For a given braiding angle, the yarn diameter needed and the number of yarn packages utilized are interdependent and inversely-related. The fewer yarn packages used for braiding, the higher the tex or denier value of the yarn needs to be. The opposite is also true, with a finer yarn requiring more yarn packages in order to establish the same resting diameter of the tube. For example, on a machine set up with 64 yarn packages for braiding yarns 15, braiding yarns 15 of preferably at least 12 tex, more preferably at least 18 tex, would need to be used.

[0103] The filling space or cover factor of a yarn is the volume of the yarn. This filling space dictates the density of the tube wall. When the filling space is too small, the density of the tube is too small and a forming mandrel would be required. When a filling space is large enough, the engineered tube may be able to maintain its shape already during the braiding (and afterwards, even without requiring further treatment), thus removing the need for a forming mandrel or for braiding over a shoe last. Therefore, the speed of production of the component 19 can be increased and the cost of a component 19 and the corresponding final product can be decreased relative to a component 19 produced with existing methods.

[0104] It is possible that the braided tube 16 is cut open after braiding to form a two-dimensional braided sheet. The term “braided element” comprises both a braided tube and a two-dimensional braided sheet. Therefore, the final product does not have to comprise a tubular structure. Here, a tubular structure, or tube, is taken to mean a cylinder-like structure that may comprise deviations from a mathematically perfect cylinder. Said deviations may be deliberately incorporated or based on technical imperfections in the manufacturing process.

[0105] The braided tube 16 is braided biaxially. In the context of the present invention, a biaxially braided tube 16 is a braided tube 16 that does not have an axial yarn incorporated during braiding. An axial yarn, sometimes also known as a standing yarn, or a longitudinal yarn, runs along an axial (also denoted as longitudinal) direction of the tubular structure. However, note that it is possible to incorporate additional yarns, for example by stitching or sewing, after braiding. An axial yarn is not referred to as a braiding yarn 15 in the context of the present invention.

[0106] FIGS. 1C-D show how the braided tube 16 is arranged on a form 18. In this case, the form 18 is a shoe last and the component 19 shown in FIG. 1D is for a shoe upper. The method comprises sealing a first end, for example the toe end, of the first braided tube prior to arranging the first layer on the form, i.e. in the step shown in FIG. 1C. “Sealing” is to be understood as “closing”. Sealing may comprise any suitable technique known in the art and any suitable technique disclosed herein such as, for example, heating, melting a meltable material, and dissolving a soluble portion.

[0107] The method further comprises conforming the component 19 to the shape of the shoe last 19. Conforming the component 19 to the shape of the shoe last 18 comprises heating a part of the component, for example by applying hot air or hot steam to the component 19.

[0108] The exemplary method further comprises sealing a second end, for example the heel end, of the first braided tube 16 after conforming the component 19 to the shape of the shoe last 18. This way, the shaped first braided tube 16 is consolidated. In other words, after sealing the second end of the first braided tube 16, the conformed shape of the first braided tube 16 becomes more permanent and stable. Sealing may comprise any suitable technique known in the art and any suitable technique disclosed herein such as, for example, heating, melting a meltable component, and dissolving a soluble portion.

[0109] FIG. 2A shows an exemplary shoe upper 20 comprising a component 19 produced as described with respect to FIGS. 1A-D. After the steps described with reference to FIGS. 1A-D above, the component 19 is removed from the last 18. A collar opening was cut into the component 19 to allow entry of a foot. A collar 23 was then attached to the component 19 around the collar opening to prevent unravelling of the yarns around the collar opening.

[0110] The braided element of the shoe upper 20 comprises a first braiding yarn 15a and a second braiding yarn 15b. The first braiding yarn 15a has a smaller cross-sectional area than the second braiding yarn 15b. The second braiding yarn 15b has a larger elastic modulus than the first braiding yarn 15a. Therefore, the second braiding yarn 15b allows regions of increased stiffness to be engineered in the shoe upper 20. In this example, a region of increased stiffness is created diagonally across the midfoot region in order to improve the stability provided to a foot of a wearer.

[0111] FIG. 2B shows an exemplary shoe 21 according to the present invention. The shoe 21 is formed by a method comprising: (a) forming a component 19 as exemplarily described above with respect to FIGS. 1A-D and FIG. 2A; (b) attaching a sole element 25. In this case, the component 19 makes up essentially the entire shoe upper 20. In this context, “essentially” means without additional elements such as the collar 23 and the heel counter 24. The shoe 21 is a football shoe, or football boot, that also comprises studs 22 for improved traction especially on soft, muddy ground.

[0112] FIG. 3 shows a measurement of the circumference 32 of a braided tube against the linear take-up speed 31 during production. The take-up speed 31 is determined by the take-up device of the braiding machine. Measurements were taken for several braided tubes. Each measured braided tube consisted of a single type of yarn. Three different types of yarn were tested: a first type 33 of yarn was coated yarn, a second type 35 of yarn comprises polyethylene terephthalate (PET) at a dernier value of 1336 dtex, and a third type 34 comprises a combination of 50% of the first type 33 and 50% of the second type 35. The measurements have shown that the tube circumference is greatest at a given take-up speed for yarns of the third type 35. The measurements have also shown that, generally, the greater the take-up speed, the greater the circumference of the relaxed braided tube. This measurement allows an informed choice of the parameters and settings during braiding in order to engineer a component with preferred properties.

[0113] FIGS. 4A-C illustrate a braiding angle 42 of a braided element 41 and a method for engineering the braiding angle 42. This is important, because the properties of the braided element 41 can be engineered, for example, by a suitable choice of yarn 15 and braiding angle 42. The braiding angle α 42 is the angle between a direction of the braiding yarns 15 and the braiding direction 44. A region with a low braiding angle, preferably between 15° and 45°, is radially easy to expand, and can allow for expansion during a dynamic movement. A region with a high braiding angle, preferably between 46° and 80°, on the other hand is radially less extensible and stiffer. At a very high braiding angle, the braided yarns are jammed in a non-axial direction. Jamming is the point at which there is no more natural expansion from a structural aspect of the braid and further expansion is linked to the strain of the filaments and yarns within it. This jamming can be used in regions where stability is required to complement or replace reinforcement structures. It is also evident from FIG. 4A, that a large braiding angle 42 generally implies a large braiding density.

[0114] The yarns 15 may have a non-circular cross-section, for example a lenticular shape. For example, the yarns 15 may have an ellipsoidal cross-section with a major axis 45 and a minor axis 46. A ribbon or a tape could also be used alternatively or additionally to a yarn. The diagonal lattice parameter 43 of the braided element 41 is shown in FIG. 4A.

[0115] FIG. 4B shows a first braided tube 16a and FIG. 4C shows a second braided tube 16b. The first braided tube 16a and the second braided tube 16b are generally identical, especially in the type of yarn that was used. However, the first braided tube 16a was formed at a take-up speed of 12 mm/s, while the second braided tube 16b was formed at a take-up speed of 18 mm/s, i.e. at a significantly higher take-up speed. The braiding angle 42, i.e. the angle between the braiding yarn 15 and the braiding direction 44, was measured for both the first braided tube 16a and the second braided tube 16b at a similar location. For the first braided tube 16a, the braiding angle 42a was found to be about 50°, while for the second braided tube 16b, the braiding angle 42b was found to be about 33°.

[0116] FIG. 5 shows another example of a shoe 21 according to the present invention. The shoe 21 comprises a heel counter 24 and a sole element 25. The shoe 21 further comprises a component comprising: a first layer L1, wherein the first layer L1 comprises a braided element 41a; and a second layer L2. A “braided element” may be a braided tube 16 produced by any method described herein. A “braided element” may be a braided tube that has been cut open so that the braided element does not necessarily have a tubular structure. The braided element 41a is braided biaxially.

[0117] The combination of a first layer L1 and a second layer L2 allows the functionality and comfort of the component to be improved. In this example, the first layer L1 is designed to provide good wearing comfort to the wearer, while the second layer L2 is designed to provide a strong “cage”.

[0118] In this example, the first layer L1 and the second layer L2 overlap at at least one overlapping point 51. In this example, the first layer L1 and the second layer L2 overlap essentially over their entire surface. “Essentially” means in this context within manufacturing imperfections. This allows the properties of the first layer L1 and the second layer L2 to complement each other in a beneficial manner at the overlapping point 51.

[0119] In this example, the first layer L1 comprises a soluble portion that is soluble in a solvent and the method further comprises at least partly dissolving the soluble portion. At least partly dissolving the soluble portion comprises a suitable amount of solvent, determined by the solubility of the soluble portion in the solvent, to ensure that the soluble portion, when dissolved in the solvent, is not lost during the procedure but stays in contact with the first and / or second layer. In this case, enough solvent is provided to dissolve 80% of the soluble portion. Some loss, however, may be inevitable in practice.

[0120] In this example, the method comprises providing a coated yarn 41a comprising a coating that is soluble in the solvent and a core that is not soluble in the solvent. This way, the dissolved coating provides consolidation but the non-soluble core is not dissolved by the solvent. This improves the structural strength of the first layer L1.

[0121] In this example, the method comprises at least partly dissolving essentially the entire surface of the first layer L1 in order to consolidate the second layer L2. It is to be understood that not all of the soluble portion is dissolved, however, as explained above. This way, a particularly good stability of the component 21 can be achieved.

[0122] At least partly dissolving the soluble portion is done at temperatures of 70° - 100° C. to increase the solubility of the soluble portion in the solvent.

[0123] The solvent in this example is water. Water is non-toxic and safe to use even on a large scale. The water-soluble coating of yarn 41a comprises poly(vinyl alcohol), which has the advantage that it is not toxic and has a high solubility in water. The upper may be provided with a water-proof coating to protect the water-soluble materials in the finished upper during use.

[0124] In this example, the second layer L2 comprises a second braided element 41b. Incorporating a second braided element 41b is advantageous as it allows different requirements for different parts of the component of the shoe 21 to be satisfied.

[0125] In this example, the first braided element of the first layer L1 comprises a first braiding angle at the overlapping point 51, the second braided element of the second layer L2 comprises a second braiding angle at the overlapping point 51, and the first braiding angle 42a may be different than the second braiding angle 42b. The braiding angle strongly affects the ability of a braided tube or element to expand and thus the stiffness of the tube or element and the support that a component would provide, for example to a foot. The braiding angle also affects the perceived level of comfort in wearing an article of footwear or apparel that comprises a component according to the present invention.

[0126] In this example, the first braiding angle 42a is larger than the second braiding angle 42b. For a given type of yarn, the first braided tube with the first braiding angle 42a would be less expandable and stiffer than the second braided tube with the (smaller) second braiding angle 42b. However, the first braided element 41a comprises a first yarn of a first type and the second braided element 41b comprises a second yarn of a second type. The type of yarn, in the present context, is determined by the properties of the yarn, comprising, for example, composition, tex value, elasticity, bending stiffness, coating, cross-sectional area, and melt yarn content.

[0127] The first yarn of the first type has a first elastic modulus and the second yarn of the second type has a second elastic modulus, and the second elastic modulus is greater than the first elastic modulus. A material with a large elastic modulus requires a large force along a direction for an extension by a unit distance along the direction. As the second elastic modulus is greater than the first elastic modulus, it is possible, to compensate for the greater stiffness that would, generally, be afforded by the first braiding angle 42a being larger than the second braiding angle 42b. Thus, it is possible that the first braided element 41a, i.e. the first layer L1, is less stiff than the second braided element 41b, i.e. the second layer L2, even though the first braiding angle 42a is larger than the second braiding angle 42b.

[0128] Alternatively, the first elastic modulus may be greater than the second elastic modulus. This way it would, for example, be possible to enhance the effect due to a first braiding angle 42a that is larger than a second braiding angle 42b.

[0129] In this example, the second layer L2 is arranged above the first layer. “Above” in the context of the present invention means closer to the outside of the article of footwear or apparel. In this arrangement, the first layer L1 provides wearing comfort to the wearer, while the second layer L2 provides the required stability or level of water resistance. The first layer L1 may, for example, comprise a finer and / or softer yarn than the yarn comprised in the second layer L2 in order to provide a comfortable feel on the skin of a wearer.

[0130] FIG. 6 shows an exemplary shoe upper 20 and illustrates a method for manufacturing the same, according to the present invention.

[0131] This shoe upper 20 comprises a component, comprising: a first layer L1, wherein the first layer L1 comprises a braided element 41 and a second layer L2.

[0132] This example, the second layer L2 comprises a non-woven. In the context of the present invention, a non-woven, or nonwoven, is any material comprising fibres that are bonded together by chemical, mechanical, or thermal means, excluding woven or knitted materials. The non-woven may be formed by any known method, for example by the spun-bond or meltblown methods. A non-woven may be lightweight, breathable, and offer good water resistance. However, non-wovens may tear easily due to their low tensile strength. The combination of the first braided element 41 and the second layer L2 comprising a non-woven therefore allows the properties of a braided element 41, in particular its good tensile strength, and the properties of a non-woven, in particular its good level of water resistance, i.e. a low water permeability, to be combined advantageously.

[0133] The second layer L2 comprises a thermoplastic. Thermoplastic, in the context of the present invention, is any polymer that becomes pliable above a specific temperature and hardens upon cooling below that temperature. Thermoplastic may be useful for forming a non-woven, as it allows the fibres of the non-woven to be bonded together by thermal means, such as heating and subsequent cooling. A thermoplastic may also be useful in order to aid conforming the component 19 to the shape of the form 18, for example by thermal means.

[0134] The shoe upper 20 is formed in a four-step process. In a first step (a), a shoe last 18 is coated with fibres comprising a thermoplastic. The fibres are melted and thus form the non-woven layer L2. In the second step (b), a braided tube 16 is braided as described herein. In the third step (c) a component 19 is formed by arranging the braided tube 16 on the shoe last 18. The shape of the component 19 is consolidated by heating the component 19 on the last 18 and subsequently allowing the component 19 to cool down. This consolidation also bonds the first layer L1 securely to the second layer L2. In the fourth step (d), the shoe upper 20 comprising the first layer L1 and the second layer L2 is removed from the last 18.

[0135] In this example, the first layer L1 is connected to the second layer L2 over essentially the entire outer surface of the second layer. The second layer L2 comprises a meltable, thermoplastic, material. The first layer L1 and the second layer L2 have been connected by melting the meltable material and allowing it to cool and solidify. Alternatively, or additionally the first layer L1 may comprise a meltable material, for example a fuse yarn.

[0136] Thus, in this example, the second layer L2 is arranged below the first layer. “Below” in the context of the present invention means closer to the inside of the article of footwear or apparel. In this arrangement, the second layer L2 provides wearing comfort to the wearer, while the first layer L1 provides structural stability, for example tensile strength. The non-woven second layer L2 is comfortable to wear on the skin, while the first layer, comprising the first braided element 41, provides tensile strength. The first layer L1 may also serve as protection against abrasion, for example by using strong, abrasion-resistant yarn in the first braided element 41.

[0137] FIG. 7 shows an exemplary method of producing a component 19 for an article of footwear or apparel according to the present invention. In this example, a braided tube 16 is produced on a braiding machine as described herein. In step (a), the braided tube 16 is then pulled over a form 18. Here, the form 18 has a blade-like shape. That is, the form 18 is not a shoe last. Instead, the form 18 is significantly flatter than a shoe last. In step (b), the component 19 is consolidated while it is arranged on the form 18. In this example, the consolidation is performed by attaching hotmelt patches in specific regions of the component 19 and consolidating the component 19 using a hot press or bladder. The component 19 is then allowed to cool and is removed in step (c) from the form 18. The inventors have found that it is easier to automate this process for a form 18 that is flatter than the shoe last, as the process may be automated using patch-placement techniques, which are easier to implement on a substantially flat surface, rather than on a three-dimensional shoe last.

[0138] FIG. 8A shows an exemplary shoe upper 20 according to the present invention. The upper 20 was produced by a method, comprising: forming at least a first layer by braiding a first braided tube, wherein braiding is performed with an empty braiding center; and arranging the first layer on a form. In this example, the form was a shoe last. The exemplary upper 20 was consolidated on the form and then removed from the form.

[0139] An advantage of the present invention is that a shoe upper 20 formed by a method according to the present invention is “naturally” stiffer in a heel region 63, where more support is required, than in a toe region 61, where more flexibility is usually desired. The reason for this is that when the first braided tube is pulled over the shoe last, the braided tube is stretched most in the heel region of the upper to conform to the geometry of the last thus increasing the braiding angle in the heel region 63 and hence increasing the stiffness in the heel region 63.

[0140] FIG. 8B shows the elasticity measured in the heel region 63, or rearfoot region 63, the midfoot region 62, and the forefoot region 61, or toe region 61. The vertical axis 65 shows the load in Newton, in other words the applied force. Note that for simplicity the force was not normalized per unit area to yield stress. The horizontal axis 64 shows the extension from equilibrium in mm. Both the force and the displacement were measured in a radial direction. The measurement clearly shows that a greater force is required, for any extension greater than 2 mm from equilibrium, to extend the upper 20 in the rear foot region 63 than in the midfoot region 62 or the forefoot region 61. Based on the insights provided herein, it is therefore possible to design and engineer a shoe upper with optimal properties for a given application.

[0141] Some embodiments described herein relate to a method of producing a component for an article of footwear or apparel, or a sporting goods accessory, including forming at least a first layer by braiding a first braided tube, wherein braiding is performed with an empty braiding center, and arranging the first layer on a form. In some embodiments, the method includes forming a second layer and arranging the second layer on the form. In some embodiments, the method further includes overlapping the first layer and the second layer at at least one overlapping point. In some embodiments, the second layer includes a second braided tube, and the first braided tube includes a first braiding angle at the overlapping point, the second braided tube includes a second braiding angle at the overlapping point, and the first braiding angle is different than the second braiding angle. In some embodiments, the first braiding angle is larger than the second braiding angle. In some embodiments, the first braided tube includes a first yarn of a first type and the second braided tube includes a second yarn of a second type. In some embodiments, the first yarn of the first type has a first elastic modulus and the second yarn of the second type has a second elastic modulus, and the second elastic modulus is greater than the first elastic modulus.

[0142] In some embodiments, the second layer includes a non-woven. In some embodiments, the second layer includes a thermoplastic. In some embodiments, the second layer is arranged above the first layer. In some embodiments, the second layer is arranged below the first layer.

[0143] Some embodiments described herein relate to a component for an article of footwear or apparel, or a sporting goods accessory, including a first layer that includes a first braided element, and a second layer. In some embodiments, the component is a portion of a shoe upper. In some embodiments, the first braided element is braided biaxially. In some embodiments, the first layer and the second layer overlap at at least one overlapping point. In some embodiments, the first layer is connected to the second layer at at least one connection point. In some embodiments, the first layer and/or the second layer includes at least one meltable material at the at least one connection point. In some embodiments, the first layer and/or the second layer includes a soluble portion that is at least partly soluble in a solvent.

[0144] In some embodiments, the first layer and the second layer overlap at at least one overlapping point, the first braided element includes a first braiding angle at the overlapping point, the second braided element includes a second braiding angle at the overlapping point, and the first braiding angle is different than the second braiding angle. In some embodiments, the first braiding angle is larger than the second braiding angle. In some embodiments, the second layer is arranged below the first layer.

Reference Signs

[0145] 11: braiding machine

[0146] 12: yarn package

[0147] 13: braiding center

[0148] 14: take-up device

[0149] 15: braiding yarn

[0150] 16: braided tube

[0151] 17: braiding ring

[0152] 18: form

[0153] 19: component

[0154] 20: shoe upper

[0155] 21: shoe

[0156] 22: studs

[0157] 23: collar

[0158] 24: heel counter

[0159] 25: sole element

[0160] 31: linear take-up speed

[0161] 32: relaxed braid circumference

[0162] 33: coated yarns

[0163] 34: combination yarn

[0164] 35: 1336 dtex PET yarns

[0165] 41: braided element

[0166] 42: braiding angle

[0167] 43: diagonal lattice parameter

[0168] 44: braiding direction

[0169] 45: length of major axis

[0170] 46: length of minor axis

[0171] L1: first layer

[0172] L2: second layer

[0173] 51: overlapping point

[0174] 61: forefoot region

[0175] 62: midfoot region

[0176] 63: heel region

[0177] 64: extension

[0178] 65: load