COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN EXTRACT OF ROSE BUSH SUCKER

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising: at least one rosewood extract comprising polyphenols, and at least one solvent selected from:
polyols comprising at least three hydroxy functions,
mixtures of at least one polyol comprising at least three hydroxy functions and water, and
mixtures of at least one polyol comprising at least three hydroxy functions and at least one diol
comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
the weight ratio of rosewood extract to solvent being strictly less than 7:13.

Claims

1. A composition comprising: at least one rosewood extract comprising at least 20% by weight with respect to the weight of the extract, of polyphenols, and at least one solvent selected from: polyols comprising at least three hydroxy functions, wherein said polyol(s) is then the only solvent of the composition, mixtures of at least one polyol comprising at least three hydroxy functions and water, and mixtures of at least one polyol comprising at least three hydroxy functions and at least one diol comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, the weight ratio of rosewood extract to solvent being strictly less than 7:13.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the rosewood extract comprising polyphenols is present in a quantity less than or equal to 35% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of rosewood extract to solvent is less than or equal to 0.5.

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the rosewood extract comprises at least 30% by weight with respect to the weight of the extract, of polyphenols.

5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the rosewood extract is obtained from rose bush stalks and/or leaves and/or suckers.

6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyol comprising at least 3 hydroxy functions comprises a hydrocarbon chain having at least 2 carbon atoms.

7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyol comprising at least 3 hydroxy functions is selected from glycerin and derivatives thereof, and glycols comprising at least 3 hydroxy functions and derivatives thereof.

8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein when the rosewood extract according to the invention is present in a quantity of at least 1% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, the polyol comprising at least 3 hydroxy functions is present in a quantity of at least 35% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the diol comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms is a diol comprising a linear carbon chain.

10. A cosmetic care method of keratin materials comprising applying a composition according to claim 1 on said keratin materials.

11. A cosmetic method for combatting oxidative skin stress, comprising applying a composition according to claim 1 on skin.

12. A cosmetic method for combatting the signs of skin aging comprising applying a composition according to claim 1.

13. A kit comprising: at least one composition according to claim 1; and at least one cosmetic composition comprising at least one aqueous phase and/or at least one oily phase.

14. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the weight ratio of rosewood extract to solvent is less than or equal to 0.5.

15. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of rosewood extract to solvent is at least 0.01.

16. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the weight ratio of rosewood extract to solvent is at least 0.01.

17. The composition according to claim 3, wherein the weight ratio of rosewood extract to solvent is at least 0.01.

18. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the rosewood extract comprises at least 30% by weight with respect to the weight of the extract, of polyphenols.

19. The composition according to claim 3, wherein the rosewood extract comprises at least 30% by weight with respect to the weight of the extract, of polyphenols.

20. The composition according to claim 5, wherein the rose used is of the Rosa genus.

Description

Example 1: Solubilization of a Rosewood Extract in Various Solvents

[0099] 200g of rosewood extract, obtained from Rosa centifoia leaves and stalks according to the method as described in the description, and comprising from 30% to 50% by weight with respect to the total weight of the extract of polyphenols, in powder form, was mixed at ambient temperature with various solvents, with a rotor-stator, before testing various evaluation criteria.

[0100] The evaluation criteria are as follows: [0101] solubility of the mixture after rotor-stator; [0102] stability of the dispersion 24h after centrifugation for 1h, at 900g; and [0103] degree of transparency of the dispersion (if relevant).

[0104] The compositions and the results are presented in Tables 1 to 3.

[0105] Mixtures A to E, G to J, M and 0 are comparative,

[0106] Mixtures F, L and N are according to the invention (marked by an asterisk).

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Ingredients (% w/w) Mixture A Mixture B Mixture C Mixture D Mixture E Rosewood extract 2 2 2 2 2 Water 98 Ethanol 98 Propane-1,2-diol 98 Isododecane 98 Pentylene glycol 98 APPEARANCE Turbid Biphasic, Biphasic, Biphasic, Biphasic, before liquid and settlement settlement settlement settlement centrifugation settlement Centrifugation Settlement Settlement Settlement Settlement Settlement sediment sediment sediment sediment sediment

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Ingredients (% w/w) Mixture F* Mixture G Mixture H Mixture I Mixture J Rosewood extract 2 2 2 2 2 Glycerol 98 24.5 Dipropylene glycol 73.5 98 Propane-1,2-diol Pentaerythrityl 98 tetraethylhexanoate Isononyl 98 isononanoate Solubility NTR OK at T0 OK at T0 Not OK Phase Not OK Phase Bubbly-turbid Bubbly-turbid separation from separation from appearance appearance T0 T0 Centrifugation at NTR No Settlement T24 h (1 g, 900 g) settlement Transparency Transparent Turbid Turbid Conclusion OK Not OK Not OK Not OK Not OK

[0107] Conclusion:

[0108] Glycerin is the only solvent, of the solvents tested, enabling complete solubilization, stable in centrifugation and resulting in a translucent mixture,

TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Ingredients (% w/w) Mixture L* Mixture M Mixture N* Mixture O Rosewood extract 2 2 2 2 Glycerol 98 49 49 49 Dipropylene glycol 49 Propane-1,2-diol 49 Pentylene glycol 49 Solubility NTR OK at T0 OK at T0 OK at T0 Bubbly-turbid Bubbly-turbid Bubbly-turbid appearance appearance appearance Centrifugation at NTR No Settlement OK Settlement T24 h (1 g, 900 g) settlement Transparency Transparent Transparent Conclusion OK Not OK OK Not OK

[0109] Conclusion:

[0110] Glycerin can be used alone, or indeed in combination with 50% propane-1,2-diol to obtain a mixture that is stable in centrifugation and translucent.

Example 2: Determination of the limit of solubility of rosewood extract in glycerin

[0111] As shown in example 1, the use of glycerin as a solvent of the rosewood extract makes it possible to solubilize the extract at ambient temperature, and obtain a translucent mixture.

[0112] Various mixtures M1 to M7 were produced, with various quantities of extract and glycerin.

[0113] The evaluation criteria are as follows: [0114] solubility of the mixture after rotor-stator (appearance); and [0115] stability of the dispersion 24h after centrifugation for 1h, at 900g.

[0116] The results are presented in Table 4.

TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 Ingredients Mixture Mixture Mixture Mixture Mixture Mixture Mixture (% w/w) M1 M2 M3 M4 M5 M6 M7 Rosewood 15 20 50 30 35 40 15 extract Glycerol 85 80 50 70 65 60 35 Water — — — — — — 50 APPEARANCE Homogeneous Homogeneous Saturation Homogeneous Foamier Inhomogeneous Homogeneous dark dark dispersion dark but foamy brown brown brown brown turbid lighter very fluid thick thick thick brown brown liquid liquid liquid liquid smooth- smooth- flowing flowing, thick almost paste hard paste Centrifugation NTR (= NTR NTR Limit Limit of NTR no of visual settlement) visual perception perception Conclusion OK OK Not OK Not Not OK OK OK OK

[0117] Conclusion:

[0118] The limit of solubilization of the rosewood extract is situated at about 30%.

[0119] The best solubilization results are obtained with 15% to 25% by weight of extract with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Example 3: Composition and kit according to the invention

[0120] The composition described hereinafter in Table 5, according to the invention, can be used as a booster, in particular at 6%, in a mixture with the cosmetic composition described in Table 6 (serum). The mixture is obtained before being applied on the skin.

[0121] Typically, the composition of Table 5 (booster) can be packaged in a pipette, which is broken before mixing with the cosmetic composition of Table 6 (serum), then applied on the skin.

TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 5 Ingredients (% w/w) Composition according to the invention Rosewood extract 2 Glycerol 98

TABLE-US-00006 TABLE 6 Ingredient % (w/w) Phase MICROBIOLOGICALLY PURE DEIONIZED WATER q.s. 100 A EDTA IN 30% AQUEOUS SOLUTION 0.25 A OCTANE-1,2-DIOL 0.3 A Preservative q.s. A GLYCERIN 3 A 1,3-BUTYLENE GLYCOL 5 A PROPANE-1,3-DIOL 3 A POLY ACRYLAMIDOMETHYL PROPANE SULFONIC ACID 0.3 B PARTIALLY NEUTRALIZED WITH AMMONIA AND HIGHLY CROSSLINKED (AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE) Xanthan gum 0.1 B SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.4 B PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAOCTANOATE 3.2 C

[0122] The above composition was prepared according to the following method: P.sub.GP-2.sub.6,T.sub.1

Phase A is mixed in a stirrer for example MAXILAB TURBOTEST tank bottom rotor/stator turbine sold by OLSA at a speed of 1000 rpm, at ambient temperature until the solution is homogeneous;
Phase B is introduced into phase A in a stirrer at a speed of 2500 rpm at ambient temperature to obtain a homogeneous gel;
Phase C is incorporated into mixture A+B with the stirrer at a speed of 2500-3000 rpm to obtain good homogenization of the solution.