EMULSIFYING AND TEXTURING COMPOSITION BASED ON STARCHES AND GUMS, FOR COSMETICS

Abstract

The object of the present application is a solid composition for use in cosmetics, comprising at least one modified starch carrying at least one hydrophobic and/or amphiphilic functional group, at least one modified starch carrying at least one hydrophilic functional group, at least one gum of microbial or fungal origin, and at least two plant-based gums. Such a composition has emulsifying and texturing properties.

Claims

1. A solid composition comprising: at least one starchy emulsifier or emulsifier of starchy origin, at least one thickening starch, at least one gum of microbial origin, and at least two plant-based gums.

2. The solid composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one starchy emulsifier or emulsifier of starchy origin is a starch functionalized by at least one amphiphilic group selected from among an octenyl succinate granular starch, an octenyl succinate modified pregelatinized starch, an octenyl succinate modified gelatinized starch, an octenyl succinate functionalized dextrin, an octenyl succinate functionalized maltodextrin, or the mixtures thereof.

3. The solid composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one thickening starch is selected from among stabilized starches, preferentially acetylated starches, hydroxypropylated starches, hydroxyethylated starches, or more preferentially from among pregelatinized and acetylated starches, or pregelatinized and hydroxypropylated starches, most preferentially from among pregelatinized and acetylated starches, or the mixtures thereof.

4. The solid composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one gum of microbial origin is selected from among xanthan gum, gellan gum, dextran gum, scleroglucan gum, beta-glucan gum, or the derivatives and mixtures thereof.

5. The solid composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least two plant-based gums are selected from among galactomannans, glucomannans, galactans, alginates, preferentially from among guar gum, tara gum, locust bean gum, cassia gum, fenugreek gum, konjac gum, arabic gum, adragant gum, karaya gum, and most preferentially are guar gum and tara gum.

6. The solid composition according to claim 1, wherein the mass proportions, relative to the total weight of the composition, are: from 20% to 60% of starchy emulsifier or emulsifier of starchy origin, from 20% to 60% of thickening starch, from 0.5% to 10% of gum of microbial origin, from 2% to 45% of plant-based gums.

7. An oil-in-water type emulsion comprising: at least one starchy emulsifier or emulsifier of starchy origin, at least one thickening starch, at least one gum of microbial origin, at least two plant-based gums, and at least one oil.

8. The emulsion according to claim 7, wherein said at least one starchy emulsifier or emulsifier of starchy origin is selected from among an octenyl succinate granular starch, an octenyl succinate dextrin, an octenyl succinate modified gelatinized starch, an octenyl succinate modified maltodextrin, or the mixtures thereof.

9. The emulsion according to claim 7, wherein the at least one starchy emulsifier or emulsifier of starchy origin is an octenyl succinate starch.

10. The emulsion according to claim 7, wherein said at least one thickening starch is selected from among stabilized starches, preferentially acetylated starches, hydroxypropylated starches, hydroxyethylated starches, or more preferentially from among pregelatinized and acetylated starches, or pregelatinized and hydroxypropylated starches, most preferentially from among pregelatinized and acetylated starches, or the mixtures thereof.

11. The emulsion according to claim 7, wherein said at least one gum of microbial origin is selected from among xanthan gum, gellan gum, dextran gum, scleroglucan gum, beta-glucan gum, or the derivatives and mixtures thereof.

12. The emulsion according to claim 7, wherein said at least two plant-based gums are selected from among galactomannans, glucomannans, galactans, alginates, preferentially from among guar gum, tara gum, locust bean gum, cassia gum, fenugreek gum, konjac gum, arabic gum, adragant gum, karaya gum, and most preferentially are guar gum and tara gum.

13. The emulsion according to claim 7, wherein said emulsion comprises an oil selected from among polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile oils, waxes.

14. Use of a solid composition according to claim 1 for preparing an oil-in-water emulsion, preferentially an oil-in-water emulsion with a transformation texture.

15. The use of a solid composition according to claim 14, wherein the oil-in-oil emulsion is a skin care product, or a hair care or coloring product, or an oral care product, a hygiene product, or a makeup product, or a perfume.

Description

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

[0289] Further features, details and advantages of the invention will become apparent upon reading the appended figures.

[0290] FIG. 1 represents an illustration of the transformation texture and of the “quick-break” phenomenon.

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Preparation of a Solid Composition According to the Invention

[0291] Solid compositions according to the invention are prepared by dry mixing the powders of Table 1 in the indicated mass proportions.

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Ingredient CS1 CS2 CS3 CS4 Pregeflo ® CH40 43 35 35 40 (Roquette Frères) Cleargum ® CO 01 38 35 44.5 35 (Roquette Frères) Xanthan gum (AGI) 1 4 2.5 3.5 Guar gum (AGI) 10 20 15 17 Tara gum (AGI) 8 6 3 4.5

[0292] The Cleargum® CO 01 can be replaced by Cleargum® CO 03 and Cleargum ® CO A1 in the same amounts.

Example 2: Preparation of Sunflower Oil Emulsions and Their Stability

[0293] Oil-in-water emulsions are prepared from sunflower oil and using the emulsifying solid composition CS1 of Example 1 in two mass proportions, 2% m and 5% m, relative to the total weight of emulsion, and for mass proportions in oil ranging from 10% m to 70% m, relative to the total weight of emulsion, according to the compositions of Table 2.

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Emulsions 1 to 5 Emulsions 6 to 10 Ingredient % m % m Phase A Demineralized water q.s. 100 q.s. 100 Phase A Solid emulsifying 2 5 composition CS1 Phase B Sunflower oil 10, 20, 35, 50, 70 10, 20, 35, 50, 70 (Helianthus annuus seed oil)

[0294] In order to prepare each emulsion, the required amount of solid emulsifying composition CS1 is dispersed in the water mass that is required in total at 20° C. under stirring at 1,000 rpm for 15 min. Then the oil mass is added under stirring at 2,500-3,000 rpm for 2 minutes. The stirring is then continued at 3,000 rpm for 30 minutes. The emulsion is then allowed to stand at 20° C. for 48 hours.

[0295] The Brookfield viscosities are measured after the standing period of 48 hours. The results are presented in table 3.

TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 % oil Mass % of CS1 = 2% m Mass % of CS1 = 5% m 10% Too low 10,400 20% 3,340 12,640 35% 5,940 30,350 50% 16,780 72,200 70% 64,200 Too high

[0296] By virtue of the composition CS1, by varying the mass proportion of oil between 10% and 70%, emulsions can be prepared with viscosities ranging from low values, that is approximately 3,000 mPa.Math.s, and thus being in the form of a fluid milk, up to high values, that is approximately 72,000 mPa.Math.s, and then being in the form of a thick cream. Intermediate viscosity values are also accessible, for example, values of 12,000 to 16,000 mPa.Math.s, yielding emulsions in the form of medium-thick fluid cream.

[0297] The emulsions are kept preserved at 20° C., and the viscosity is measured after one week and then after one month of preservation.

TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 % oil 48 hours One week One month 20% 3,340 2,810 2,800 35% 5,940 5,570 5,000 50% 16,780 15,850 15,000 70% 64,200 40,350 40,000

TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 5 % oil 48 hours One week One month 10% 10,400 10,760 12,000 20% 12,640 12,850 16,000 35% 30,350 27,750 27,000 50% 72,200 65,100 62,000

[0298] For the two mass percentage values of composition CS1 that are implemented, the viscosities of the emulsions that are obtained are stable over a duration of at least one month (unstable=+/−25% in variation between one week and one month)

Example 3: Preparation of Emulsion With Different Types of Oils

[0299] Oil-in-water emulsions are produced with mass percentages in oil of 10%, 30% and 60% according to the protocol of Example 2, using a mass percentage of composition CS1 of 3%, and using a single oil per emulsion, for the various oils of Table 6.

TABLE-US-00006 TABLE 6 Oil # Trade name INCI name Type Supplier H1 Sweet almond Prunus amygdalus Plant- Cooper dulcis oil based H2 Isopropyl palmitate Isosopropyl plamitate Ester BASF H3 Cosmacol Dicaprylyl ether Ether Sasol H4 Dow Corning 1501 Cylopentasiloxane (and) Silicone Dow fluid dimethicone Corning H5 Belsil DM 350 Dimethicone 350 Silicone Wacker H6 Mirasil CM 5 Cyclopentasiloxane Silicone Blue Silicone H7 Paraffin oil Paraffinum liquidum Alkane Cooper H8 Isohexadecane Isohexadecane Alkane IMCD

[0300] Each emulsion is then assessed using a Brookfield viscosity measurement (at 20° C. at 20 rpm for 1 minute), and by measuring the particle sizes using an optical microscope, and by assessing the color of the emulsion.

TABLE-US-00007 TABLE 7 Viscosity (mPa .Math. s) for the percentage in oil (% m) Particle size Color of the Oil # 10% 30% 60% (microns) emulsion H1 8,000 11,000 80,000   From <10 to 20 white H2 6,800 11,400 85,000   From <10 to 20 white H3 7,500 13,000 85,000   From <10 to 20 white H4 7,800 12,000 54,000  From 30 to 100 white H5 6,500 12,000 42,000 From 10 to 20 white H6 7,500 10,500 44 500 From 10 to 50 white H7 7,200 11,500 44,000 From 10 to 30 white H8 6,800 10,200 54,000 From 10 to 30 white

[0301] The composition CS1 allowed white emulsions to be obtained with all the types of oil that were tested, with viscosities ranging from approximately 6 500 to 8,000 mPa.Math.s, corresponding to a fluid cream texture, at approximately 80,000-85,000 mPa.Math.s, thus corresponding to a thick texture.

[0302] The Brookfield viscosity measurements (at 20° C. at 20 rpm for 1 minute) of the emulsions were continued at 22° C. for 3 months (Table 7 bis), and at 50° C. for 1 month (Table 7 ter).

TABLE-US-00008 TABLE 7 bis Brookfield Viscosity (mPa .Math. s) for the percentage in oil (% m) Oil # 10% 30% 60% H1 5,000 9,040 65,000 H2 4,700 8,700 n.d. H3 5,000 10,000 53,000 H4 5,200 8,500 24,000 H5 4,500 7,500 27,000 H6 5,000 8,000 30,500 H7 5,200 9,000 33,000 H8 4,800 8,300 30,000

TABLE-US-00009 TABLE 7 ter Brookfield Viscosity (mPa .Math. s) for the percentage in oil (% m) Oil # 10% 30% 60% H1 8,400 10,100 58,000 H2 7,100 9,800 47,000 H3 6,100 9,600 32,000 H4 6,900 8,400 14,700 H5 n.d. 8,400 n.d. H6 6,800 6,000 n.d. H7 n.d. 8,300 n.d. H8 n.d. 8,500 n.d.

[0303] For almond oil (H1), isopropyl palmitate (H2) and dicaprylyl ether (H3), the average variation of the Brookfield viscosities when stored at 22° C. and 50° C. is 19% for mass percentages in oil of 10% to 30%, and 38% for a mass percentage in oil of 60%.

[0304] For cyclopentasiloxane-dimethicone (H4), dimethicone 50 (H5), cyclopentasiloxane (H6), paraffin oil (H7) and isohexadenane (H8), the average variation of the Brookfield viscosities when stored at 22° C. and 50° C. is 27% for mass percentages in oil of 10% to 30%, and 44% for a mass percentage in oil of 60%.

Example 4: Stability of the Emulsions as a Function of pH

[0305] Emulsions are prepared according to the protocol of Example 2, using the following mass percentages: 5% of composition CS1, 20% of “Helianthus annuus seed oil”, 75% of demineralized water. The pH is adjusted to a target value corresponding to the values shown in Table 8, ranging from 2.6 to 12, with citric acid in solution or diluted soda. The Brookfield viscosity at 20 rpm is measured after 24 hours, then 7 days, of storage at 22° C.

TABLE-US-00010 TABLE 8 Viscosity at 24 hours Viscosity at 7 days pH (mPa .Math. s) (mPa .Math. s) 2.6 11,000 11,000 4.1 12,300 12,500 4.7 11,700 11,700 6.3 10,500 10,100 8.5 8,500 6,700-start of exudate 9.8 4,500 Broken emulsion 12 3,700 Broken emulsion

[0306] For a pH range ranging from 2.6 to 7.5-8, the viscosities of the prepared emulsions are stable enough to characterize these emulsions as stable.

[0307] The stability of the Brookfield viscosity (at 20° C. at 20 rpm for 1 minute) was studied when stored at pH values of 4, 4.7 and 6.5 over durations of 48 hours and 3 months at 22° C., and 1 month at 50° C. (Table 8 bis).

TABLE-US-00011 TABLE 8 bis Brookfield Brookfield Brookfield Viscosity at Viscosity at Viscosity at 48 hours at 22° C. 3 months at 22° C. 1 month at 50° C. pH (mPa .Math. s) (mPa .Math. s) (mPa .Math. s) 4 12,500 13,800 15,000 4.7 11,700 11,400 12,700 6.5 10,800 11,400 12,600

[0308] It can be seen that at pH values that are less than or equal to 6.5 and greater than or equal to 4, the emulsions have a very stable Brookfield viscosity when stored at 22° C. for 3 months and at 50° C. for 1 month.

Example 5: Stability of the Emulsions as a Function of the Salt Content

[0309] According to the protocol of Example 2, three emulsions are prepared with 5% of the composition CS1, 20% of “Helianthus annuus seed oil” and 75% of demineralized water. One of the emulsions constitutes the control sample. Another is added with 2% of sodium chloride. The latter is added with 2% of calcium chloride. The emulsions that are obtained after being stored for 48 hours at 20° C. (Table 9), 3 months at 20° C. (Table 9 bis), and after 1 month at 50° C. (Table 10), are characterized by measuring the Brookfield viscosity (20° C., 20 rpm), by assessing the particle size using an optical microscope, and the color of the emulsions.

TABLE-US-00012 TABLE 9 Brookfield Viscosity at 20° C. Particle size Color of the Emulsion and 20 rpm (microns) pH emulsion Control 12,500 From 10 to 20 5 white 2% NaCl 13,000 From 10 to 20 5 white 2% 13,500 From 10 to 20 5 white CaCl2

TABLE-US-00013 TABLE 10 Brookfield Viscosity at 20° C. Particle size Color of the Emulsion and 20 rpm (microns) pH emulsion Control 16,000 From 10 to 20 4.7 white 2% NaCl 10,000 From 15 to 30 4.3 white 2% CaCl2 10,500 From 10 to 20 4.3 white

[0310] The results of tables 9, 9 bis and 10 show that adding 2% of salt does not alter the ability to emulsify, nor the quality and the stability of the emulsions that are obtained.

TABLE-US-00014 TABLE 9 bis Brookfield Viscosity at 3 months at 20° C. Emulsion (mPa .Math. s) Control 12,200 2% NaCl 10,000 2% CaCl2 10,200

Example 6: Stability of the Emulsions as a Function of the Surfactant Content

[0311] According to the protocol of Example 2, four emulsions are prepared with 3% of the composition CS1, 35% of “Helianthus annuus seed oil”, between 0% and 20% of a surfactant mixture sold under the name “Texapon WW100” by BASF, and the “sufficient amount to reach 100%” of demineralized water. The emulsions obtained after storing for 48 hours at 20° C. (Table 11) are characterized by assessing the particle size using an optical microscope, and the color of the emulsions.

TABLE-US-00015 TABLE 11 Brookfield Viscosity at 20° C. and 20 Particle size Color of the Emulsion rpm (microns) pH emulsion Control sample 0% 11,000 <10 4.7 white Texapon WW100  5% Texapon 7,800 <10 6.8 white WW100 10% Texapon 6,700 <10 6.8 white WW100 20% Texapon 5,200 <10 6.8 white WW100

[0312] The emulsions prepared with the composition CS1 exhibit good tolerance to the presence of the mixture of anionic and non-ionic surfactants. The viscosities are lowered but remain acceptable. Moreover, the emulsions remain stable.

TABLE-US-00016 TABLE 11 bis Brookfield Brookfield Viscosity at 3 Viscosity at 1 months at month at 50° C. Emulsion 20° C. (mPa .Math. s) (mPa .Math. s) Control sample 0% 12,700 13,000 Texapon WW100  5% Texapon 8,200 10,000 WW100 10% Texapon 7,200 8,200 WW100

[0313] Storage at 20° C. was continued up to a duration of 3 months, and storage at 50° C. for a duration of 1 month (Table 11 bis) was implemented. For mass percentages of Texapon WW100 of less than or equal to 10%, it can be seen that the Brookfield viscosity varies from 5% to 15% when stored at 20° C., which is a low variation, and from 18% to 28% at 50° C., which is a notable variation. The low viscosity variations observed at 20° C. do not affect the texture of the emulsions, which remains unchanged relative to its initial state. The more notable variations at 50° C. do not however affect the texture of the emulsions in a manner that is perceptible by the user.

Example 7: Compatibility With Pigments

[0314] Coloring emulsions are prepared with the “Unipure Yellow LC 182 HLC” pigment by Sensient Cosmetic Technologies: [0315] either by introducing a pigment into the oil, then using the protocol of Example 2, [0316] or by preparing an emulsion according to the protocol of Example 2, and then dispersing the pigment in the emulsion.

[0317] The cream is then applied to the back of the hand in order to assess the spreading quality and the homogeneity of the coloring (Table 12).

TABLE-US-00017 TABLE 12 Quality of the Quality of Homogeneity of Pigment introduction mode cream spreading the color Before emulsification, in oil smooth average poor After emulsification, in smooth Very good Very good emulsion

[0318] It can be seen that introducing the pigment into the pre-prepared emulsion yields better results: the coloring cream spreads better, and yields a more homogeneous color.

TABLE-US-00018 TABLE 13 Quality of the Quality of Homogeneity of Pigment cream spreading the color Unipure Yellow LC 182 HLC Good Good Good (hydrophobic) ASL-Yellow LL-100P Good Good Good (hydrophobic) SMS-1 Red N°122 Good Good Good (amphiphilic) Covarine Yellow WN 1798 Good Average Average (hydrophile)

[0319] It can be seen that using a solid composition CS1 according to the invention for preparing coloring emulsions allows emulsions to be obtained that spread well and have good coloring homogeneity.

[0320] Good results are also obtained from the solid compositions CS2, CS3 or CS4.

[0321] Coloring emulsions were prepared with the solid composition CS1 and with different colorings at mass percentages of 10% or 20% (relative to the weight of the emulsion), and by introducing the pigment in different ways: either in water, or in oil, or at the end, in other words in the emulsion that is obtained. The Brookfield viscosity is measured after storage at 22° C. for 48 hours and 3 months, and after storage at 50° C. for 1 month. The results are presented in Tables 13 bis and 13 ter. The Brookfield viscosity measurement spindle is the

[0322] SP6 spindle at 20° C. at 20 rpm for 1 minute.

TABLE-US-00019 TABLE 13 bis Brookfield Brookfield Brookfield Viscosity at Viscosity at Viscosity at 48 hours 3 months 1 month Pigment/Introduction/ at 22° C. at 22° C. at 50° C. Supplier (mPa .Math. s) (mPa .Math. s) (mPa .Math. s) Covarine Yellow 10%/at 26,300 35,000 45,000 the end/Sensient SMS-1 Red N°211P 10%/ 38,000 30,000 29,500 at the end/Daito Kasei Unipure LC/PHY 10%/ 26,000 24,000 25,300 mixture at the end/Sensient Unipure LC/PHY 10%/red 18,000 19,500 24,500 at the end/Sensient Unipure LC/PHY 20%/in 18,400 17,000 27,500 water/Sensient Unipure HC/HLC 10%/at 25,000 23,300 24,000 the end/Sensient Unipure HC/HLC 10%/in 28,100 24,000 28,500 oil/Sensient

[0323] It can be seen that the coloring emulsions with the pigments of Table 13 bis are stable and have Brookfield viscosities that vary over periods of 3 months at 22° C. and 1 month at 50° C., but without a perceptible impact on the texture.

TABLE-US-00020 TABLE 13 ter Brookfield Brookfield Brookfield Viscosity at Viscosity at Viscosity at 48 hours 3 months 1 month at 22° C. at 22° C. at 50° C. Pigment/Supplier (mPa .Math. s) (mPa .Math. s) (mPa .Math. s) Unipure LC/SGP 20% 100,000 90,000 26,000 in water/Sensient Unipure LC 20% in 100,000 90,000 26,000 water/Sensient Unipure LC 20% in 87,000 43,000 19,500 oil/Sensient

[0324] It can be seen that the coloring emulsions with the pigments of Table 13 ter have a relatively stable Brookfield viscosity at 22° C., but which drops significantly at 50° C., providing a more fluid cream. However, these variations have little impact on the emulsion, which remains stable, and on the dispersion of the pigments, which remains homogeneous, and on spreading on the skin, which also remains homogeneous.

[0325] Example 8: Illustration of the Transformation Texture

[0326] A transformation texture cream is prepared by using the solid emulsifying and texturing composition that is the subject matter of the present application, according to the composition of Table 14, according to the following protocol.

TABLE-US-00021 TABLE 14 Phase Ingredient (INCI) Trade name (supplier) Wt % A Aqua Demineralized water q.s. 100 Solid composition CS1 not applicable 3.00 B Propanediol dicaprylate Dub Zenoat (Stéarinerie 18.00 Dubois) Camellia Japonica Seed Oil Tsubaki oil (Jan Dekker) 2.00 Undecane (and) Tridecane Cetiol Ultimate (BASF) 30.00

[0327] The solid composition CS1 is dispersed in water at 20° C. under stirring at 1,000 rpm with a deflocculating blade, until the solid composition is hydrated and thus becomes opalescent, which requires approximately 5 to 10 minutes. Independently, the ingredients of phase B are mixed at 20° C. Still at 20° C., phase B is slowly added to phase A, for approximately 1 to 2 minutes, while stirring at 2,000-3,000 rpm with the deflocculating blade, and then stirring for a further 10 minutes.

[0328] As illustrated in photograph A of FIG. 1, a thick, white “pot texture” cream is obtained, with a Brookfield viscosity, at 20° C. at 20 rpm with the SP6 spindle, from 23,000 to 27,000 mPas. This cream is stable for at least one month at 50° C. When the cream is taken and placed on the skin, the thick texture is maintained, as illustrated in photograph B of FIG. 1. Then, when the cream is spread on the skin, by making circular movements, which develop a shear force, the texture transforms into a mixture with an aqueous texture and an oily texture, as illustrated in photograph C of FIG. 1. This transformation appears to be the result of a phenomenon called “quick-break” phenomenon both in water and in oil.

[0329] According to the composition of Table 15, a variant of the previous cream with a transformation texture is prepared, by adding cosmetic additives, such as the isosorbide humectant sold under the name “Beauté by Roquette PO500” by Roquette Frères, paraben type preservatives, fragrance, and an anti-ageing cosmetic active ingredient, tocopherol, sold under the name of “Covi-ox T-70 C” by BASF.

TABLE-US-00022 TABLE 15 Phase Ingredient (INCI) Trade name (supplier) Wt % A Aqua Demineralized water q.s. 100 Isosorbide Beauté by Roquette 5.00 PO500 (Roquette) Solid composition CS1 not applicable 3.00 B Propanediol dicaprylate Dub Zenoat (Stéarinerie 18.00 Dubois) Camellia Japonica Seed Oil Tsubaki oil (Jan Dekker) 2.00 Undecane (and) Tridecane Cetiol Ultimate (BASF) 30.00 Phenoxyethanol• Sepicide HB (Seppic) 1.00 Methyl paraben• Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Fragrance Wild Bergamot (L.R. 0.20 Flavours & Fragrances) Tocopherol Covi-ox ® T-70 C 0.10 (BASF)

[0330] A thick cream is obtained as before, that is also stable, and also has a transformation texture with a quick-break phenomenon in water and in oil.

Example 9: Compatibility With Ethanol

[0331] According to the protocol of Example 2, 4 emulsions are prepared comprising a mass percentage of 3% of composition CS1, 35% of “Helianthius annuus seed oil”, and “a sufficient amount to reach 100%” of demineralized water. One of the emulsions constitutes the control sample. Another is added with 5% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of the emulsion. The emulsions that are obtained after storage for 48 hours and 3 months at 20° C., and at the same time after 1 month at 50° C., are characterized by measuring the Brookfield viscosity (20° C., 20 rpm).

TABLE-US-00023 TABLE 16 Brookfield Brookfield Brookfield Viscosity at 48 Viscosity at 3 Viscosity at 1 hours at 22° C. months at 22° C. month at 50° C. Emulsion (mPa .Math. s) (mPa .Math. s) (mPa .Math. s) No ethanol 11,000 12,700 13,000 5% ethanol 6,200 7,000 9,000

[0332] It can be seen that ethanol can be added at a level of 5% by weight relative to the weight of the emulsion and a Brookfield viscosity can be maintained close to the initial viscosity, and that this viscosity is stable up to at least 3 months at 20° C. and 1 month at 50° C.

Example 10: Compatibility With Preservatives

[0333] According to the protocol of Example 2, 4 emulsions are prepared comprising a mass percentage of 3% of composition CS1, 35% of “Helianthius annuus seed oil”, and “a sufficient amount to reach 100%” of demineralized water. One of the emulsions constitutes the control sample. The others are added with a preservative dose according to Table 17. The dose is expressed as a mass percentage, that is as a weight % of preservative relative to the total weight of the emulsion. The emulsions that are obtained after storage for 48 hours and 3 months at 20° C., and at the same time after 1 month at 50° C., are characterized by measuring the Brookfield viscosity at 20° C. and 20 rpm for 1 minute.

TABLE-US-00024 TABLE 17 Brookfield Brookfield Brookfield Viscosity at Viscosity at Viscosity at Preservative and its dose 48 hours 3 months 1 month (% bv weight relative to at 22° C. at 22° C. at 50° C. the weight of emulsion (mPa .Math. s) (mPa .Math. s) (mPa .Math. s) 0.5% Sodium benzoate + 11,300 8,000 8,000 0.5% potassium sorbate 1% Caprylyl glycol 9,000 7,400 6,300 1% Phenylpropanol & 11,500 9,300 8,900 1,2-hexanediol 5% Pentylene glycol 12,250 9,000 9,500

[0334] It can be seen that the emulsions prepared with the solid composition CS1 additivated with preservatives have a stable viscosity that drops slightly when stored at 22° C. for 3 months and at 50° C. for 1 month, but which remains sufficient to maintain the initial texture of the cream.

Example 11: Compatibility With the Preparation Mode

[0335] Emulsions with 3% by weight of the solid composition CS1, 35% by weight of “Helianthus annuus seed oil” and 62% by weight of demineralized water, according to 5 different preparation modes, are prepared in order to assess the ease with which the emulsion can be prepared by means of a solid composition such as CS1:

[0336] “Deflocculator” preparation mode: this is a preparation protocol identical to that of Example 2, in which stirring is provided by a spindle of the “dispersing turbine” type, or even a “deflocculating turbine”.

[0337] “Conventional method” preparation mode: this is a preparation protocol identical to that of Example 2, in which stirring is provided by a spindle of the “marine propeller” type.

[0338] “Concentrated method” preparation mode: this is a preparation protocol similar to that of Example 2, but in which half the amount of total water required is used to produce the emulsion with the entire amount of oil required, in order to obtain a “concentrated emulsion”, and then half the amount of remaining water is added to the concentrated emulsion in order to dilute it and achieve the desired final composition.

[0339] “Rotor-stator” preparation mode: this is a preparation protocol identical to that of Example 2, in which stirring is provided by a rotor-stator type spindle.

[0340] “Ultra-turrax®” preparation mode: this is a preparation protocol identical to that of Example 2, in which stirring is provided by an “Ultra-turrax®” model rotor-stator manufactured by IKA.

[0341] The emulsions that are obtained after storage for 48 hours and 3 months at 20° C., and at the same time after 1 month at 50° C., are characterized by measuring the Brookfield viscosity at 20° C. and 20 rpm for 1 minute (Table 18)

TABLE-US-00025 TABLE 18 Brookfield Brookfield Brookfield Viscosity at 48 Viscosity at 3 Viscosity at 1 hours at 22° C. months at 22° C. month at 50° C. Preparation mode (mPa .Math. s) (mPa .Math. s) (mPa .Math. s) Deflocculator 11,000 12,700 13,000 Conventional method 11,000 12,700 13,000 Concentrated method 12,000 10,700 12,000 Rotor-stator 11,600 10,300 12,500 Ultra-turax 12,800 14,500 11,400

[0342] It can be seen that the Brookfield viscosities of the emulsions prepared using all the tested preparation modes are stable.

Example 12: Implementation in a Sunscreen Cream

[0343] A sunscreen cream was prepared by emulsification with a solid composition CS1 according to the composition of Table 19 following the protocol of Example 2, and by adding phase C to the emulsion that is obtained.

TABLE-US-00026 TABLE 19 Phase Ingredient (INCI) Trade name (supplier) Wt % A Aqua Demineralized water q.s. 100 Xanthan gum Xantan Gum Personal care 0.40 grade Solid composition CS1 Solid composition CS1 4.00 B Camellia Japonica Seed Tsubaki oil (Jan Dekker) 23.00 Oil Homosalate Eusolex HMS (Rona/Merck) 5.00 Ethylhexyl Eusolex 2292 (Rona/Merck) 5.00 Methoxycinnamate Dietylamino Uvinul A plus (BASF) 4.00 Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate Bis-Ethylhexyl Tinosorb S (BASF) 13.00 Methoxyphenyl Triazine C Phenoxyethanol (and) Microcare PHC (Thor) 1.00 Chlorphenesin (and) Glycerin

[0344] The sunscreen indices were determined using in-vitro protocols by the Helioscience laboratory according to the following protocol. Three “Sunplate” type PMMA plates were used, and 4 measurements were taken per plate. The cream prepared according to Table 19 was deposited on each plate. The plates underwent irradiation of 550 W/m2 for 30 minutes with an “ATLAS CPS+” solar simulator. Before and after irradiation, and before and after a water bath for water resistance, the level of photoprotection was measured with a “Kontron 933” spectrophotometer equipped with an integrating sphere. The results are presented in Table 20.

TABLE-US-00027 TABLE 20 SPF Ery UVA LOC (nm) Water resistance (%) Before irradiation 85.9 36.8 375 Not applicable After irradiation 83.2 36.1 374 69

[0345] The composition CS1 allowed a sunscreen cream to be prepared with a sun protection level of “50+”, and with water resistance of 69%.