COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FOR SOFT-FOCUS
20220313572 · 2022-10-06
Assignee
Inventors
Cpc classification
A61K2800/651
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K2800/412
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61Q1/00
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
A61K8/891
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
Disclosed is a cosmetic composition comprising: (i) microspheres for providing soft-focus benefits where said microspheres comprise at least 50% cellulose by weight of microspheres; and, (ii) 0.5 to 10 wt % of a non-silica hydrophilic inorganic thickener; wherein refractive index of said microspheres is from 1.42 to 1.50.
Claims
1. A cosmetic composition comprising: (i) microspheres comprising at least 50% cellulose by weight of microspheres; and, (ii) 0.5 to 10 wt % of a non-silica hydrophilic inorganic thickener; wherein refractive index of the microspheres is from 1.42 to 1.50.
2. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the microspheres comprise at least 90% cellulose.
3. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein average particle size of the microspheres is 1 to 100 μm.
4. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition comprises 0.5 to 10 wt % of the microspheres.
5. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the non-silica hydrophilic inorganic thickener is at least one of magnesium-aluminium silicate, a layered silicate, smectite, hectorite, bentonite, montmorillonite or phyllosilicate.
6. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition comprises water.
7. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 6, wherein the composition is in the form of an emulsion.
8. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 7, wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion.
9. A method of blurring superficial imperfections of skin comprising a step of applying thereon a cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1.
10. The method as claimed in claim 9, wherein the superficial imperfections include fine lines and wrinkles.
11. The method as claimed in claim 10, wherein the method is non-therapeutic.
12. (canceled)
13. (canceled)
14. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition comprises 1 to 5 wt % of microspheres.
15. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition comprises 0.5 to 3 wt % of non-silica hydrophilic inorganic thickener.
16. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the non-silica hydrophilic inorganic thickener is at least one of magnesium-aluminium silicate or smectite
17. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the microspheres additionally comprise one or more other types of microspheres selected from polymer microspheres, mineral microspheres, and natural polymer microspheres.
18. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises silicone elastomer, whitening pigment, organic sunscreen, skin lightening agent, or a mixture thereof.
19. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition possesses a L&W (line and wrinkle) Index of at least −80%.
20. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the microspheres are configured to provide soft-focus benefits.
Description
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0035] The Composition of the Invention
[0036] In accordance with a first aspect is disclosed a cosmetic composition comprising: [0037] (i) microspheres for providing soft-focus benefits where said microspheres comprise at least 50% cellulose by weight of microspheres; and, [0038] (ii) 0.5 to 10 wt % of a non-silica hydrophilic inorganic thickener; [0039] wherein refractive index of said microspheres is from 1.42 to 1.50.
[0040] Imperfect skin can be hidden generally in two ways through manipulation of light transmission. In the first, components of the cosmetic may simply reflect light towards the source. An alternative approach is referred to as achieving a soft-focus effect. Here the incoming light is distorted by scattering (lensing). Components of the color cosmetic in this mechanism operate as lenses to bend and twist light into a variety of directions. Many consumers desire a younger-looking skin devoid of blemishes, fine lines and wrinkles, especially their face. Such a desire is coupled with the fact that consumers want to look radiant and natural in the absence of having an artificial matte look typically provided by traditional foundation-based products which tend to be overly opaque in nature and may have aesthetic and/or cultural negatives.
[0041] Attempts at “perfecting” skin have been made. Often, topical compositions with absorbent fillers (e.g., talc, silica, kaolin) are made wherein such inorganic fillers hide skin imperfections by absorbing some light and simply reflecting light back not unlike paint. An alternative approach is referred to as achieving a soft-focus effect. This occurs when incoming light is distorted by scattering (dispersion) wherein light is twisted into a variety of directions. Soft focus is often thought of as a measure similar to haze but applicable to thin product films. Traditional approaches, unfortunately, either hide imperfections in the absence of radiance or result in radiance and healthy glow but with aesthetically displeasing skin appearance, for example, through enhanced visibility of skin topography.
[0042] There is an increasing interest to develop composite particles and compositions with composite particles that yield an excellent soft focus.
[0043] Microspheres are discrete spherical particles. Depending on their size and composition, microspheres will impart finished products with a variety of effects that include soft-focus. Microspheres can scatter light to obliterate superficial defects of the skin that include fine lines and wrinkles. This effect is called “Soft Focus” or “Optical Blurring.” Such microspheres may or may not have any surface treatment or surface coating.
[0044] Cosmetic compositions in accordance with this invention comprise microspheres for providing soft-focus benefits where the microspheres comprise at least 50% cellulose by weight of microspheres. It is preferred that the microspheres comprise at least 90% cellulose by weight of microspheres. The microspheres may preferably comprise a coating of a non-cellulosic material. Optimally the microspheres are entirely made up of cellulose. Preferably the average particle size of said microspheres is 1 to 100 μm. It is further preferred that refractive index of the microspheres is from 1.42 to 1.50. Compositions in accordance with this invention comprise 0.5 to 10 wt % of said microspheres, more preferably 1 to 5 wt % and most preferably 1 to 3.5 wt % of the composition.
[0045] It is preferred that cosmetic compositions in accordance with this invention comprise microspheres for providing soft-focus benefits where said microspheres comprise at least 50% cellulose and some examples of commercially available microspheres are CELLULOBEADS® with the variants being D−5, D−10+, D−30, D−50 and USF+. It is generally observed that when the compositions contain any kind of microspheres for providing soft-focus benefits, especially those that comprise at least 50% cellulose, it is necessary to have at least one kind of thickener for stabilizing the microspheres in the composition. The thickener could be of any kind, i.e. inorganic or organic but we have observed that organic thickeners, at least some of them, tend to negatively affect the soft-focus benefits provided by the compositions.
[0046] While not strictly necessary, the compositions in accordance with this invention may additionally comprise one or more other type of microspheres, i.e. non-cellulosic microspheres. Preferably such other microspheres are selected from polymer microspheres, mineral microspheres or natural polymer microspheres. When present, it is preferred that the collective amount thereof is from 0.5 to 10 wt %. It is preferred that the mineral microspheres are silica microparticles such as MSS-500/3H, MSS-500/H from Kobo Products Inc or turbostratic boron nitride such as Softouch® Boron Nitride Powder CC6097 from Momentive. It is preferred that the polymer microspheres are Polymethylsilsesquioxane such as DIASPHERE® KS-500, Methyl Methacrylate crosspolymer such as MSP-930 or nylon microspheres such as TR-1 or SP-10. It is preferred that the natural polymer microspheres are based on Polylactic Acid such as MAKIBEADS ECO®.
[0047] Cosmetic compositions of the invention comprise a non-silica hydrophilic inorganic thickener which swells by intercalating a polar liquid. Preferably the compositions comprise 0.5 to 10 wt % of said hydrophilic inorganic thickener. This amount would depend on several other factors such as the wt % of the microspheres and the nature of the cosmetic composition, i.e., a cream or a lotion or a gel. The term non-silica means that the inorganic thickener is not a thickening silica or any other silica-based thickener. More preferably the compositions of this invention comprise 0.5 to 5 wt %, most preferably 0.5 to 3 wt % of the non-silica hydrophilic inorganic. It is preferred that the inorganic thickener is at least one of magnesium-aluminium silicate, a layered silicate, smectite, hectorite, bentonite, montmorillonite or phyllosilicate. More preferably the inorganic thickener is smectite or magnesium-aluminium silicate.
[0048] Several grades of magnesium-aluminium silicates are commercially available, for example, the VEEGUM® range of thickeners such as Normal Fast Ultra, VEEGUM® K, VEEGUM® HV, VEEGUM® PURE, VEEGUM® CH, VEEGUM® HS, VEEGUM® D, VEEGUM® Ultra and the VANATURAL range of thickeners such as VANATURAL® MC. The VANATURAL® range is of the bentonite clay type.
[0049] While not necessary, the magnesium-aluminium silicate or smectite may be used in the form of combination or blend of the thickener with a natural organic gum or natural organic thickener. An example thereof is VANATURAL® XGB (Bentonite and Xanthan Gum). Other examples include VAN GEL SX (smectite clay and xanthan gum) and VEEGUM CER (smectite clay and cellulose gum). Other such blends could include polyacrylates, carbomers, cellulose, sodium, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methylcellulose, xanthan gum, sodium carrageenan, sodium alginate, hydroxypropyl guar, gum arabic (acacia) or gum tragacanth.
[0050] Other preferred forms of smectite include sodium magnesium silicates, organically modified smectites including tetra alkyl and/or trialkyl ammonium smectites (organically modified montmorillonite clays) such as quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorite, stearalkonium bentonite and stearalkonium hectorite; and mixtures thereof.
[0051] Montmorillonites represent clay minerals, which belong to the dioctahedral smectites, and are materials which swell in water but do not become plastic. The layer packets in the 3-layer structure of the montmorillonites can swell as the result of reversible incorporation of water (in a 2-7 fold amount).
[0052] As montmorillonites have a large capacity for ion exchange, aluminum can be replaced by Mg, Fe(II), Fe(Ill), Zn, Pb, Cr, Cu and others. The resulting negative charge of the octahedral layers is balanced by cations, such as Na.sup.+ (sodium montmorillonite) and Ca.sup.2+ (calcium montmorillonite) in interlayer positions.
[0053] Smectites are characterized by a 2:1 layer structure in which two tetrahedral sheets form on either side of an octahedral sheet through sharing of apical oxygens. As the apical oxygens from the tetrahedral sheet form ditrigonal or hexagonal rings, one oxygen from the octahedral sheet is located on the centre of each ring and is protonated to yield a structural hydroxyl. In 2:1 phyllosilicates, isomorphous substitution of cations having different valencies can lead to charge imbalances within a sheet. These may be partly balanced by the opposite type of charge imbalance in the adjacent sheet (e.g. a positively charged octahedral sheet may offset some of the negative charge associated with a tetrahedral sheet).
[0054] The compounds/clay materials belonging to the class of smectites is quite large, and especially the Cs exchanged classes of smectites includes hectorite, saponite, and montmorillonite in addition to vermiculite, and several non-exchangeable phyllosilicates.
[0055] Other preferred thickener as per this invention is sodium and calcium montmorillonite, which are part of the smectite group of natural aluminosilicate minerals, and are the most common members. Montmorillonite is the major phase in a type of clays called bentonites. Amongst the calcium and sodium bentonites, sodium bentonite is more preferred.
[0056] Montmorillonite is characterized by the substitution of a limited number of octahedral Al.sup.3+ with Mg.sup.2+, which accounts for its negative charge. This is naturally balanced by Na+ between the clay platelets, partially sunk in the hexagonal openings of the silica layer. Because the sodium ions are not structural they can be easily replaced by other positively charged elements or molecules, and are called exchangeable cations. In addition to the charge balancing cations, a tightly held layer of oriented water, about 0.29 nanometers thick, occupies the space between individual flakes. This water requires temperatures well in excess of 100° C. for removal. A single VEEGUM® Magnesium Aluminum Silicate or VANATURAL® Bentonite Clay particle is composed of thousands of these sandwiched platelets with exchangeable cations and a layer of water between each.
[0057] The trioctahedral analogues of montmorillonite are saponite and hectorite.
[0058] The binding effect of inter-platelet water and counterions makes mechanical delamination of smectite clays very difficult but swelling by intercalation with polar liquids and solutions is quite easy. Likewise, in cases where the full surface area of the clay needs to be exposed and/or its rheological properties exploited, hydraulic delamination is relatively simple. When such an inorganic thickener and water are mixed, water penetrates between platelets forcing them further apart. The cations begin to diffuse away from platelet faces. Diffusion (the movement of cations from between platelets out into the water) and osmosis (the movement of water into the space between platelets) then promote delamination until platelets are completely separated.
[0059] It is preferred that cosmetic compositions of the invention comprise water. More preferably the compositions comprise 10 to 90 wt % water, furthermore preferably 30 to 70 wt % water and optimally from 25 to 60 wt % water. The amount of water will depend on the nature of the composition.
[0060] It is preferred that the composition is in the form of an emulsion. More preferably the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion. Alternatively, it is a water-in-oil emulsion.
[0061] Preferred hydrophobic material for use in the oil phase of such emulsions includes emollients such as fats, oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, soaps, silicone oils, synthetic esters and/or hydrocarbons.
[0062] Additional Ingredients
[0063] It is preferred that the composition additionally comprises one or more of the following ingredients.
[0064] “Silicone elastomer” as used herein refers to deformable organopolysiloxane with viscoelastic properties. Preferably the cosmetic composition comprises a silicone elastomer.
[0065] It is preferred that the silicone elastomer is cross-linked. The silicone elastomer can be obtained from curable organo-polysiloxanes. Examples in this respect are: addition reaction-curing organopolysiloxane compositions which cure under platinum metal catalysis by the addition reaction between SiH-containing diorganopolysiloxane and organopolysiloxane having silicon-bonded vinyl groups; condensation-curing organopolysiloxane compositions which cure in the presence of an organotin compound by a dehydrogenation reaction between hydroxyl terminated diorganopolysiloxane and SiH-containing diorganopolysiloxane; condensation-curing organopolysiloxane compositions which cure in the presence of an organotin compound or a titanate ester, by a condensation reaction between a hydroxyl terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolyzable organosilane (this condensation reaction is exemplified by dehydration, alcohol-liberating, oxime-liberating, amine-liberating, amide-liberating, carboxyl-liberating, and ketone-liberating reactions); peroxide-curing organopolysiloxane compositions which thermally cure in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; and organopolysiloxane compositions which are cured by high-energy radiation, such as by gamma-rays, ultraviolet radiation or electron beams. The silicone elastomer is preferably obtained by addition reaction-curing organopolysiloxane compositions which cure under platinum metal catalysis by the addition reaction between SiH-containing diorganopolysiloxane and organopolysiloxane having silicon-bonded vinyl groups
[0066] The silicone elastomer may either be an emulsifying or non-emulsifying cross-linked silicone elastomer or a combination thereof but preferably the silicone elastomer is non-emulsifying. The term “non-emulsifying,” as used herein, defines cross-linked silicone elastomer from which poly-oxyalkylene units are absent. The term “emulsifying,” as used herein, means cross-linked organo-polysiloxane elastomer having at least one poly-oxyalkylene (e.g., poly-oxyethylene or poly-oxypropylene) unit.
[0067] Preferred silicone elastomers are organo-polysiloxanes available under the INCI names of dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone crosspolymer and Polysilicone-11. More preferably the silicone elastomer is dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.
[0068] Preferably, the cosmetic compositions of the invention comprise 0.1 to 10 wt % of the silicone elastomer, more preferably 0.5 to 8 wt %, even more preferably 1 to 5 wt %.
[0069] Further preferably the carrier comprises silicones which are not elastomers.
[0070] Silicones may be divided into the volatile and nonvolatile variety. Volatile silicone oils (if used) are preferably chosen from cyclic (cyclomethicone) or linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 9, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
[0071] Compositions of the invention may preferably also comprise a non-silicone emollient. Specific examples of non-silicone emollients include stearyl alcohol, glyceryl monoricinoleate, mink oil, cetyl alcohol, isopropyl isostearate, stearic acid, isobutyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, oleyl alcohol, isopropyl laurate, hexyl laurate, decyl oleate, octadecan-2-ol, isocetyl alcohol, eicosanyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate, silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxane, di-n-butyl sebacate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, polyethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, lanolin, cocoa butter, corn oil, cotton seed oil, olive oil, palm kernel oil, rape seed oil, safflower seed oil, evening primrose oil, soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, avocado oil, sesame seed oil, coconut oil, arachis oil, castor oil, acetylated lanolin alcohols, petroleum jelly, mineral oil, butyl myristate, isostearic acid, palmitic acid, isopropyl linoleate, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, decyl oleate, myristyl myristate, and mixtures thereof.
[0072] Of particular use also are the C.sub.12-15 alkyl benzoate esters sold under the Finsolv® brand.
[0073] The compositions of the invention may comprise 1 to 25 wt % fatty acid or 0.1 to 80 wt % soap by weight of the composition. Mixtures of fatty acid and soap are also suitable e.g., forming a vanishing cream base which lends a matte feel to the skin. C.sub.12-20 fatty acids are especially preferred, more preferred being C.sub.14-18 fatty acids. The most preferred fatty acid is stearic acid, myristic acid or a mixture thereof. When present, the composition comprises 5 to 20 wt % of the fatty acids or soap. Soaps in the hydrophobic material can include alkali metal salt of fatty acids, like sodium or potassium salts, most preferred being potassium stearate. Generally, a vanishing cream base in cosmetic compositions is prepared by taking a desired amount of total fatty matter and mixing with potassium hydroxide in desired amounts. The soap is usually formed in-situ during the mixing.
[0074] Preferably, the composition comprises a whitening pigment. The whitening pigment are typically particles of high refractive index materials. For example, the whitening pigment may have a refractive index of greater than 1.3, more preferably greater than 1.8 and most preferably from 2.0 to 2.7. Examples of such whitening pigment are those comprising bismuth oxy-chloride barium sulfate, mica, silica, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, aluminum oxide, zinc oxide or combinations thereof. More preferred whitening pigment are particles comprising titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, mica, iron oxide or a combination thereof. Even more preferred whitening pigment are particles comprising zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, titanium dioxide or a combination thereof as these materials have especially high refractive index. Still even more preferably the whitening pigment is selected from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide or a mixture thereof and most preferred whitening pigment is titanium dioxide.
[0075] The average diameter of whitening pigment is typical from 15 nm to 2 μm, more preferably from 35 nm to 800 nm, even more preferably from 50 nm to 500 nm and still even more preferably from 100 to 300 nm. Diameter of whitening pigment refers to the diameter of particles in an un-aggregated state. In the event a well-defined sphere is not generated, diameter means the largest measurable distance on a particle The average diameter may be measured for example by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) or transmission electron microscopy (TEM) by averaging the value of at least one hundred particles.
[0076] Preferably the composition comprises 0.001 to 10 wt % whitening pigment, more preferably 0.01 to 6 wt %, more preferably still 0.1 to 3 wt % and most preferably 0.2 to 2 wt % whitening pigment.
[0077] Preferably the compositions of the invention comprise one or more organic sunscreens. A wide variety of organic sunscreen is suitable for use in combination with the essential ingredients of this invention. Suitable UV-A/UV-B sunscreen include, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl p-aminobenzoic acid, digalloyltrioleate, 2,2-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, ethyl-4-(bis(hydroxypropyl)) aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, 2-ethylhexylsalicylate, glyceryl p-aminobenzoate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate, methylanthranilate, p-dimethyl-aminobenzoic acid or aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-p-dimethyl-amino-benzoate, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, 2-(p-dimethylaminophenyl)-5-sulfonicbenzoxazoic acid, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid and mixtures thereof. The most suitable organic sunscreens are 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane or a mixture thereof. A safe and effective amount of organic sunscreen may be used in the compositions useful in the subject invention.
[0078] The composition preferably comprises from 0.1% to 10%, more preferably from 0.1% to 5%, of organic sunscreen.
[0079] The composition of the invention preferably comprises a skin lightening agent. Vitamin B3 compounds (including derivatives of vitamin B3) e.g. niacin, nicotinic acid or niacinamide are the preferred skin lightening agent as per the invention, most preferred being niacinamide. Vitamin B3 compounds, when used, are preferably present in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 10%, more preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight of the composition. Other well-known skin lightening agents may also be included at levels of 0.1 to 10 wt %, more preferably 0.2 to 5 wt. Suitable examples include adapalene, aloe extract, ammonium lactate, anethole derivatives, apple extract, arbutin, azelaic acid, kojic acid, bamboo extract, bearberry extract, bletilla tuber, bupleurum falcatum extract, burnet extract, butyl hydroxy anisole, butyl hydroxy toluene, citrate esters, Chuanxiong, Dang-Gui, deoxyarbutin, 1,3-diphenyl propane derivatives, 2,5-dihydroxybenzoic acid and its derivatives, 2-(4-acetoxyphenyl)-1,3-dithane, 2-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-1,3-dithane, ellagic acid, escinol, estragole derivatives, Fadeout (Pentapharm), Fangfeng, fennel extract, ganoderma extract, gaoben, Gatuline Whitening (Gattlefosse), genistic acid and its derivatives, glabridin and its derivatives, gluco pyranosyl-1-ascorbate, gluconic acid, glycolic acid, green tea extract, 4-hydroxy-5-methyl-3[2H]-furanone, hydroquinone, 4-hydroxyanisole and its derivatives, 4-hydroxy benzoic acid derivatives, hydroxycaprylic acid, inositol ascorbate, lemon extract, linoleic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, Melawhite (Pentapharm), Morus alba extract, mulberry root extract, 5-octanoyl salicylic acid, parsley extract, Phellinus linteus extract, pyrogallol derivatives, 2,4-resorcinol derivatives, 3,5-resorcinol derivatives, rose fruit extract, salicylic acid, Song-Yi extract, 3,4,5-trihydroxybenzyl derivatives, tranexamic acid, vitamins like vitamin B6, vitamin B12, vitamin C, vitamin A, dicarboxylic acids, resorcinol derivatives, extracts from plants viz. Rubia and Symplocos, hydroxycarboxylic acids like lactic acid and their salts e.g. sodium lactate, and mixtures thereof.
[0080] Solvents such as ethyl alcohol, isopropanol, acetone, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and mixtures thereof may also be included at suitable levels.
[0081] Humectants include those of the polyhydric alcohol-type. Typical polyhydric alcohols include polyalkylene glycols and more preferably alkylene polyols and their derivatives, including propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, glycerol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol and mixtures thereof. The amount of humectant may range, for example, anywhere from 0.5 to 50%, more preferably between 1 and 15% by weight of the composition. Most preferred is glycerol (also known as glycerin). Amounts of glycerin may range, for example, from 0.5% to 50%, more preferably from 1 to 35%, optimally from 2 to 15% by weight of the composition.
[0082] It is preferred that the L&W (line and wrinkle) Index of the compositions in accordance with this invention is at least −80%, more preferably −70% to 300%, even more preferably −45% to 200%. The method of measurement of L&W index is described in the Examples.
[0083] It is preferred that the cosmetic composition of this invention is a skin care composition. More preferably, the composition is preferably an antiperspirant composition or a face (except eye lids and lips) care composition or a bodycare composition. The skin care composition refers to a composition suitable for topical application to human skin, including leave-on and wash-off products. Preferably the term encompasses a fluid liquid, and particularly a moisturizer rather than a make-up product. Most preferred are leave-on compositions. The term “leave-on” as used with reference to compositions herein means a composition that is applied to or rubbed on the skin and left thereon. The term “wash-off” as used with reference to compositions herein means a skin cleanser that is applied to or rubbed on the skin and rinsed off substantially immediately subsequent to application.
[0084] The composition can be formulated in any known format. More preferably it is a cream or a lotion. For underarm applications the compositions of the invention are formulated as a deodorant or antiperspirant, preferably as a roll-on or a cream or stick. The cosmetic compositions of the invention may further comprise other ingredients which are common in the art to enhance physical properties and performances. Suitable ingredients include but are not limited to binders, colorants and pigments, pH adjusting agents, preservatives, optics, perfumes, viscosity modifiers, biological additives, buffering agents, conditioners, natural extracts, essential oils and skin benefit agents including anti-inflammatory agents, cooling agents, antiperspirant agents, anti-aging agents, anti-acne agents, anti-microbial agents and antioxidants.
[0085] The compositions may be suitable packed in an appropriately sized packaging or dispenser. Packaging can be a jar or tube as well as any other format typically seen for cosmetic, cream, washing and lotion type products. The compositions may be applied topically and preferably 1 to 4 milligrams of composition is applied per cm.sup.2 of skin.
METHOD AND USE
[0086] In another aspect the invention provides a method of blurring superficial imperfections of skin comprising a step of applying thereon a cosmetic composition of the first aspect. Preferably the superficial imperfections include fine lines and wrinkles. Further preferably the method is non-therapeutic. In other words, the method of the invention is a cosmetic method that is practised on generally healthy individuals as opposed to therapeutic methods that are practised for alleviation of a therapeutic condition.
[0087] In yet another aspect the invention provides use of the composition of the invention for blurring superficial imperfections of skin comprising a step of applying thereon a cosmetic composition of the first aspect. Preferably the superficial imperfections include fine lines and wrinkles. Further preferably the use is non-therapeutic. In other words, the use of the invention is a cosmetic method that is practised on generally healthy individuals as opposed to therapeutic methods that are practised for alleviation of a therapeutic condition.
[0088] The following examples are provided to facilitate an understanding of the invention. The examples are not intended to limit the scope of the claims.
EXAMPLES
Example 1
[0089] A variety of compositions (oil-in-water emulsions) were formulated, which were later subjected to some tests. Some information about the important ingredients used in the compositions is included in Table 1.
TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Trade name INCI name Diameter/μm MSS-500/3H Silica (Porous) 3 DC9509 Dimethicone/Vinyldimethicone 3 (63% active content) Crosspolymer (and) C12-14 Pareth-12 Makibeads ® 80 Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer 7 Laponite ® XLG Lithium Magnesium Sodium Silicate Not applicable (NA) Veegum ® Magnesium Aluminum Silicate NA Cellulobeads ® USF Cellulose (100% cellulose) 4 Koboguard ® Water (and) Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acrylate NA 50AMP Copolymer (and) Aminomethyl Propanol SimulGel ® EG Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl NA Taurate Copolymer & Isohexadecane & Polysorbate 80 Aristoflex ® HMB Ammonium NA Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
[0090] Details of the formulations are shown in Table 2.
TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Sample code and ingredient/wt % Ingredients A B C D E F G H I J K SimulGel ® EG — 2.5 — 2.5 — 2.5 — 2.5 — — 2.5 Laponite ® XLG 2.5 — 2.5 — — — 2.5 — 2.5 2.5 — Veegum ® — — — — 2.5 — — — — — — Cellulobeads ® USF — — 3.0 3.0 3.0 — — — — — — DC9509 ® — — — — — 4.8 4.8 — — — — MSS ®-500/3H — — — — — — — 3.0 3.0 — — Makibeads ® 80 — — — — — — — — — 3.0 3.0 Koboguard ® 50AMP 1.0 Tween ® 20 2.0 Propylene Glycol 2.0 Cetearyl alcohol 1.0 Stearic acid 1.0 Aristoflex ® HMB 0.3 Glyceryl Stearate 1.0 Cetiol ® Utimate 5.0 Crodamol ® CAP 5.0 Mineral oil 2.0 Water and minors to 100
[0091] L&W Index of each of the cosmetic compositions in Table 2 was measured by following an in vitro model described hereinafter.
[0092] Calculation of L&W Index
[0093] The incident light was reflected and scattered by Bio-skin plates. The specular reflected light kept the same polarization as the incident light whereas the scattering light from the volume (diffused light) was un-polarized. SAMBA® camera acquired successively two images corresponding to two states of polarization (parallel and crossed). The parallel image intensity (P) is contributed from the reflected and the scattered light, and the crossed image intensity (C) is contributed from the scattered light only. The parallel image plus the crossed image is equal to the total image delivered by a traditional camera or perceived by human eye.
[0094] Gloss of each pixel was calculated using the formula (P−C)/(P+C). The standard deviation (STD) of gloss is a measure of uniformity of the appearance of skin and the tow are inversely proportional. The L&W (line and wrinkle) Index demonstrates the extent of soft-focus provided by the concerned cosmetic composition and it was calculated by using the following formula.
(STD of gloss degree before applying sample−STD of gloss degree after applying sample)/(STD of gloss degree before applying sample).
[0095] The observations are summarised in Table 3.
TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Example Microspheres/ Thickener/ L&W Index Standard Ref. no. wt % wt % (average) Deviation A NIL Laponite XLG 12.30% 3.81% 2.5% B NIL 2.5% SimulGel −120.28% 5.65% EG C 3% Cellulobeads 2.5% Laponite 47.38% 8.13% USF D 3% Cellulobeads 2.5% Simulgel 19.61% 7.15% USF EG E 3% Cellulobeads 2.5% Veegum 34.14% 0.35% USF+ F 4.8% DC9509 2.5% Simulgel −56.78% 1.00% EG G 4.8% DC9509 2.5% Laponite 3.74% 0.89% H 3% Silica 2.5% Simulgel 33.83% 1.64% EG I 3% Silica 2.5% Laponite 39.60% 1.32% J 3% PMMA 2.5% Laponite 15.71% 3.46% K 3% PMMA 2.5% Simulgel −10.11% 9.28% EG
[0096] Only the compositions C and E are within the invention; rest all are outside the scope.
[0097] Comparison of A and B with C, D and E clearly indicates that a composition devoid of any ingredient that provides soft-focus benefits, does not show such an effect.
[0098] The L&W Index of C, D and E clearly indicates that inclusion of Cellulobeads makes a significant difference but when Cellulobeads are combined with Simulgel® EG, the L&W Index reduces to an appreciable extent. This indicates that a combination of Cellulobeads with an organic thickener is not a good combination for the L&W Index. However, when the same Cellulobeads are combined with Veegum or Laponite, the L&W Index is very high.
[0099] Other examples clearly indicate that when other microspheres that provides soft-focus benefits are combined with the same Laponite or Veegum, the L&W Index remains low.
[0100] While silica microbeads pair well with Simulgel EG as well as Laponite, the inventors have observed that the appearance of the film was patchy or unclear which could affect the appearance of skin. appearance benefit. Compositions C, D and E and did not show any patchy or unclear appearance.