USE OF A FATTY ACID ESTER FOR MATTIFYING THE SKIN AND COMPOSITION COMPRISING THIS ESTER

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

a) one or more alcohols comprising at least 20 carbon atoms,
b) one or more fatty acid esters, said ester comprising at least 24 carbon atoms, and being selected among A) those corresponding to the formula (I) below:

R—COO—R′  (I) in which: R and R′, which may be identical or different, denote a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 14 to 24 carbon atoms, and B) di- or triesters of glycerol and of C.sub.12-C.sub.30 fatty acids; and
c) at least one or more thickeners which are not xanthan gum.

Another subject of the invention is a process for mattifying the skin and/or reducing the shininess thereof.

Another subject of the invention is the use of said fatty acid ester as agent for mattifying keratin materials such as the skin.

Claims

1. A composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) one or more fatty alcohols comprising at least 20 carbon atoms, b) one or more fatty acid esters, said ester comprising at least 24 carbon atoms, and being selected among A) those corresponding to the formula (I) below:
R—COO—R′  (I) in which: R and R′, which may be identical or different, denote a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and B) di- or triesters of glycerol and of C.sub.12-C.sub.30 fatty acids; and c) at least one or more thickeners which are not xanthan gum.

2. The composition as claimed in claim 1, the fatty alcohol(s) comprising at least 20 carbon atoms are of structure R.sup.a—OH, in which R.sup.a denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, radical comprising from 20 to 50 carbon atoms; R.sup.a may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.

3. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the one or more fatty alcohol(s) alcohols comprising at least 20 carbon atoms are primary fatty alcohols which have a saturated linear backbone.

4. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the amount of fatty alcohol(s) comprising at least 20 carbon atoms varies from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein said fatty acid esters are selected from the group consisting of behenyl behenate, stearyl stearate, arachidyl and glyceryl dibehenate.

6. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein said fatty acid esters are present in the compositions according to the invention in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition as claimed in claim 6, wherein the thickeners are chosen from homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylic acid or methacrylic acid which may or may not be salified, homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid which may or may not be salified, and/or cellulose polymers, and anionic associative thickeners.

8. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the thickener(s) according to the invention are present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition as claimed in claim 1, which also comprises at least one C.sub.8-C.sub.30 alkyl(poly)glycoside.

10. The composition as claimed in claim 9, wherein the at least one C.sub.8-C.sub.30 alkyl(poly)glycoside is present in a content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition as claimed in claim 1, which also comprises at least one oil.

12. The composition as claimed in claim 1, which also comprises at least one active agent for caring for oily skin, chosen from desquamating agents, antimicrobial agents, anti-inflammatory agents, sebum-regulating agents and antioxidants.

13. A cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up the skin, comprising the topical application to the skin of the composition as claim 1.

14. The process as claimed in claim 13, which is a process for mattifying the skin and/or reducing the shininess thereof.

15. A cosmetic for caring for combination and/or oily skin comprising the topical application to the skin of the composition as claim 2.

16. The cosmetic process as claimed in claim 15, which is a process for mattifying keratin materials.

17. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the one or more fatty alcohols comprising at least 20 carbon atoms are primary fatty alcohols which have a saturated linear backbone selected form the group consisting of behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol and montanyl alcohol.

18. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the one or more fatty alcohols comprising at least 20 carbon atoms are selected from the group consisting of behenyl alcohol and arachidyl alcohol.

19. The composition as claimed in claim 2, wherein the one or more fatty alcohols comprising at least 20 carbon atoms are primary fatty alcohols which have a saturated linear backbone.

20. The composition as claimed in claim 2, wherein the amount of the one or more fatty alcohols comprising at least 20 carbon atoms varies from 0.1% to 20% by weight.

Description

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Measuring the Matte Finish/Shininess

[0236]

TABLE-US-00001 In % AM A B Behenyl behenate 3 — Cetylstearyl alcohol — 3 Arachidyl Alcohol(55%) (and) Behenyl Alcohol(30%) 3 3 (and) Arachidyl Glucoside(15%) (Montanov 202 from SEPPIC) Isohexadecane 6 6 Dimethicone 10 cSt 6 6 Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate in inverse 0.72 0.72 emulsion (Simulgel 800 from SEPPIC) Preserving agents 0.5 0.5 Water q.s. for 100% 100%

Measuring the Matte Finish by In Vitro Evaluation

[0237] The matte finish obtained with composition A according to the invention and with composition B given by way of comparative example was measured, using a contrast card (Prufkarte 24/5-250 cm.sup.2 type) sold by the company Erichsen. The composition was spread in an amount of 2 mg/cm.sup.2 by means of a mechanical film drawer to obtain a film 100 microns thick. The cards are stored for 24 h at 37° C. under an atmosphere controlled between 15% and 25% humidity.

[0238] 1 spray of a mixture (20% oleic acid+79% Vichy water+1% Oleth-10) was carried out; the amount deposited is approximately 0.3 g per spray. Reflection was measured using a gonioreflectometer at TO (GU TO), then there was a 6 minute wait at room temperature and then a new measurement was taken (GU T6 min). The result obtained is the ratio R between the specular reflection and the scattered reflection (gloss unit). The value of R is proportionately smaller the greater the mattifying effect.

[0239] The table below gives the values for immediate gloss unit (GU TO) and for after spraying on an artificial sebum/sweat solution (GU T6 min).

TABLE-US-00002 Gloss unit GU Composition Ingredient at 3% GU T0 T6 min B Cetylstearyl alcohol 9 45 A Behenyl behenate 7 10 (Dub BB from Stéarinerie Dubois)

[0240] These results show that the composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a lower level of shininess than that obtained with a composition containing a C.sub.16-C.sub.18 for fatty alcohol.

[0241] The performance of the composition is maintained in the presence of sweat and/or sebum.

Example 2

[0242] The following 3 compositions according to the invention were prepared:

TABLE-US-00003 In % AM A B C Behenyl behenate 1 — Glyceryl monobehenate, dibehenate and — 1 tribehenate (Compritol 888 CG from Gattefossé) Glyceryl trihydroxystearate (Thixcin R from 1 Elementis) Arachidyl Alcohol(55%) (and) Behenyl 3 3 3 Alcohol(30%) (and) Arachidyl Glucoside(15%) (Montanov 202 from SEPPIC) Isohexadecane 6 6 6 Dimethicone 10 cSt 6 6 6 Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate in inverse 0.72 0.72 0.72 emulsion (Simulgel 800 from SEPPIC) Glycerol 5 — — Preserving agents 0.5 0.5 0.5 Water q.s. for 100% 100% 100%

Measuring the Matte Finish by In Vitro Evaluation

The Procedure was Carried Out as Described in Example 1

[0243] The table below gives the values for immediate gloss unit (GU TO) and for gloss unit after spraying on an artificial sebum/sweat solution (GU T6 min).

TABLE-US-00004 Gloss unit GU Cornposition GU T0 T6 min A Behenyl behenate 2.9 4.3 B Glyceryl tribehenate 3.25 7.2 C Glyceryl 3.2 3.2 trihydroxystearate

[0244] The performance of the compositions is maintained in the presence of sweat and/or sebum.

Example 3

[0245] A composition according to the invention was prepared:

TABLE-US-00005 % Active INCI Name Material Arachidyl Alcohol(55%) (and) Behenyl Alcohol(30%) (and) 3 Arachidyl Glucoside(15%) Montanov 202 from SEPPIC Isohexadecane 6 Dimethicone (DC Toray SH 200C fluid 10C5 from Dow Corning) 6 Behenyl Behenate DUB BB (100%) 1 Glycerol 5 Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate in inverse emulsion 0.72 (Simulgel 800 from SEPPIC) Preserving agents 0.5 Water q.s. for 100% Gloss unit T0 2.9 Gloss unit T6 min 4.3

[0246] The performance of the composition is maintained in the presence of sweat and/or sebum.

[0247] This composition may be applied in the morning and/or evening to the face to mattify and moisturize combination and oily skin.

Example 4

[0248]

TABLE-US-00006 INCI Name Concentration Behenyl Behenate-DUB BB 3 Isohexadecane 6 Dimethicone (DC Toray SH 200C fluid 6 10C5 from Dow Corning) Water q.s. for 100% Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate in 0.72 inverse emulsion (Simulgel 800 from SEPPIC) Phenoxyethanol 0.5 Gloss unit T0 7 Gloss unit T6 min 10

[0249] The performance of the composition is maintained in the presence of sweat and/or sebum.

[0250] This composition may be applied in the morning and/or evening to the face to mattify combination and oily skin.

Example 5: Measuring the Matte Finish/Shininess During Time, with Repeated Presence of Sweat and/or Sebum

[0251]

TABLE-US-00007 INCI Name A B Behenyl Behenate-DUB BB — 1 Arachidyl Alcohol(55%) (and) Behenyl 3 3 Alcohol(30%) (and) Arachidyl Glucoside(15%) Montanov 202 from SEPPIC ISOHEXADECANE 6 6 DIMETHICONE 10 Cst 6 6 Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate in inverse 2 1 emulsion (Simulgel 800 from SEPPIC) Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 water qs for 100% 100%

Measuring the Matte Finish by In Vitro Evaluation

[0252] The matte finish obtained with composition B according to the invention and with composition A given by way of comparative example was measured, using a contrast card (Prufkarte 24/5-250 cm.sup.2 type) sold by the company Erichsen. The composition was spread in an amount of 2 mg/cm.sup.2 by means of a mechanical film drawer to obtain a film 100 microns thick. The cards are stored for 24 h at 37° C. under an atmosphere controlled between 15% and 25% humidity.

[0253] 5 successive sprays of a same mixture reproducing an artificial solution of sweat/sebum (20% oleic acid+79% Vichy water+1% Oleth-10) was carried out; the amount deposited is approximately 0.3 g per spray. Reflection was measured using a gonioreflectometer at TO (GU TO), then there was a 6 minute wait at room temperature after each spraying before new reflection measures. The result obtained is the ratio R between the specular reflection and the scattered reflection (gloss unit). The value of R is proportionately smaller the greater the mattifying effect.

[0254] The table below gives the values for immediate gloss unit (GU TO) and for after spraying on an artificial sebum/sweat solution.

TABLE-US-00008 gloss unit (GU) A B Initial gloss unit (GU T0) 2.7 2.8 GU after 1 spray 5.4 3.5 GU after 2 sprays 21.6 9 GU after 3 sprays 41.3 15 GU after 4 sprays 51 17 GU after 5 sprays 54 27

[0255] The performance of the composition is maintained in the repeated presence of sweat and/or sebum.

[0256] This composition may be applied in the morning and/or evening to the face to mattify combination and oily skin, and can maintain its matte finish properties, even when it is subjected to the repeated presence of sweat and/or sebum.