USE OF A COMBINATION OF AN ASSOCIATIVE NONIONIC POLYETHER POLYURETHANE AND A CYCLOHEXANOL DERIVATIVE AS A SKIN REFRESHING AGENT

Abstract

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use as a skin refreshing agent of the combination of at least one associative nonionic polyether polyurethane and at least one cyclohexanol derivative.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for refreshing the skin, consisting in applying to the skin surface a composition comprising, in particular in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) an aqueous phase; and b) at least one associative nonionic polyether polyurethane; and c) at least one cyclohexanol derivative.

The present invention also relates to a composition comprising, particularly in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one aqueous phase; and b) at least one associative nonionic polyether polyurethane; and c) at least one cyclohexanol derivative; and d) at least one antiperspirant active agent.

The present invention also relates to a method for the treatment of human perspiration, and optionally of body odors, which consists in applying to the surface of the skin a composition as described previously.

Claims

1. A cosmetic method for refreshing the skin, which comprises applying to the skin surface a composition comprising as a skin refreshing agent a combination of at least one associative nonionic polyether polyurethane and at least one cyclohexanol derivative.

2. The cosmetic method as claimed in claim 1, where the associative nonionic polyether polyurethane includes in its chain both hydrophilic and hydrophobic blocks selected from the group consisting of aliphatic sequences cycloaliphatic sequences and aromatic sequences and mixtures thereof.

3. The cosmetic method as claimed in claim 2, where the associative nonionic polyether polyurethane includes at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon-based chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, where the hydrocarbon-based chains may be pendant chains or chains at the end of a hydrophilic block.

4. The cosmetic method as claimed in claim 3, where the associative nonionic polyether polyurethane is in the form of a triblock whose hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylenated chain including 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups.

5. The cosmetic method as claimed in claim 2, where the associative nonionic polyether polyurethane may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol comprising 100 mol of ethylene oxide, and (iii) a diisocyanate.

6. The cosmetic method as claimed in claim 5, where the associative nonionic polyether polyurethane is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 136 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 100 mol of ethylene oxide and of hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) with a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of 30,000 (INCI name: PEG-136/Steareth-100I/SMDI Copolymer).

7. The cosmetic method as claimed in claim 1, where the cyclohexanol derivative is chosen from those having the formula: ##STR00014## in which R denotes a hydrogen atom; a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.5 alkyl group, a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.5 alkanediol group; a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.5 carboxyhydroxyalkyl group, R.sub.1 denotes a hydrogen atom; a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.5 alkyl group.

8. The cosmetic method as claimed in claim 7, where the cyclohexanol derivative is menthol in the isolated form, in the form of mint extract and mixtures thereof.

9. A cosmetic method for refreshing the skin, which comprises applying to the skin surface a composition comprising: a) at least one aqueous phase, b) and at least one refreshing agent which comprises b′) at least one associative nonionic polyether polyurethane and; b″) at least one cyclohexanol derivative.

10. The method as claimed in claim 9, where the amount of the at least one substance associative nonionic polyether polyurethane ranges from 0.01 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The method as claimed in claim 9, where the at least one refreshing agent is present in concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 1%, relative to the total weight of the formula.

12. A composition comprising: a) at least one aqueous phase; and b) and at least one refreshing agent which comprises b′) at least one associative nonionic polyether polyurethane; b″) at least one cyclohexanol derivative and c) at least one antiperspirant active agent.

13. The composition as claimed in claim 12, where the antiperspirant agent is chosen from aluminum and/or zirconium salts or complexes, perlite, talcs and mixtures thereof.

14. The composition as claimed in claim 12, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising. a) a continuous aqueous phase; and b) an oil phase dispersed in the aqueous phase, and c) said at least one associative nonionic polyether polyurethane; and d) said at least one cyclohexanol derivative, and e) at least one mixture comprising at least one alkylpolyglycoside whose alkyl chain is linear or branched and comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and at least one linear or branched fatty alcohol, having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms; and f) said at least one antiperspirant active agent.

15. The composition as claimed in claim 14, comprising a) at least one continuous aqueous phase; and b) at least one oil phase dispersed in said aqueous phase; and c) at least one C.sub.14-C.sub.22 alcohols/C.sub.12-C.sub.20 alkyl glucoside mixture; and d) at least one polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 136 mol of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 100 mol of ethylene oxide and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) with a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of 30,000 (INCI name: PEG-136/Steareth-1001/SMDI Copolymer); and e) menthol, and f) at least one aluminum and/or zirconium salt or complex.

16. The composition as claimed in claim 12, which is an oil-in-water emulsion packaged in an aerosol, comprising: a) a said continuous oil phase, and b) an said aqueous phase dispersed in the oil phase, and c) said at least one associative nonionic polyether polyurethane; and d) said at least one cyclohexanol derivative and f) said at least one antiperspirant active agent and g) at least one propellant.

17. The composition as claimed in claim 16, comprising: a) a wherein said continuous oil phase comprises at least one involatile silicone oil; and b) said aqueous phase dispersed in the oil phase, and c) at least one polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 136 mol of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 100 mol of ethylene oxide and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) with a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of 30,000 (INCI name: PEG-136/Steareth-100I/SMDI Copolymer) and e) menthol, and f) at least one aluminum and/or zirconium salt or complex, and g) said at least one propellant.

18. A method for the treatment of body odors and optionally of human perspiration, which comprises applying to the surface of a keratin material an emulsion as defined in claim 12.

19. The cosmetic method as claimed in claim 2, where the cyclohexanol derivative is chosen from those having the formula: ##STR00015## in which R denotes a hydrogen atom; a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.5 alkyl group, a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.5 alkanediol group; a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.5 carboxyhydroxyalkyl group, R.sub.1 denotes a hydrogen atom; a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.5 alkyl group.

20. The cosmetic method as claimed in claim 3, where the cyclohexanol derivative is chosen from those having the formula: ##STR00016## in which R denotes a hydrogen atom; a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.5 alkyl group, a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.5 alkanediol group; a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.5 carboxyhydroxyalkyl group, R.sub.1 denotes a hydrogen atom; a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.5 alkyl group.

Description

EXAMPLE 1

Roll-On (W/O Emulsion)

[0317]

TABLE-US-00001 Example 2 Example 1 (outside the Ingredients (INCI name) (invention) invention) STEARETH-100/PEG-136/HDI 1.0 — COPOLYMER (RHEOLUXE 811) C14-22 ALCOHOLS (and) C12-20 ALKYL 3.0 3.0 GLUCOSIDE (MONTANOV L) ALUMINUM CHLOROHYDRATE in 30 30 aqueous solution at 50% by weight (CLURON 50%  ®) PERLITE (OPTIMAT 1430 OR ®) 1.0 1.0 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.7 0.7 FRAGRANCE 1.0 1.0 MENTHOL-L (620009 MENTHOL LAEVO 0.2 0.2 PELLETS ®) WATER qs 100 qs 100

[0318] Procedure:

[0319] In the main tank, at 80° C. with turbomixer stirring, water and the associative polyurethane polyether Steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI Copolymer were added, the phase composed of (C14-C22 Alcohols (and) C12-C20 Alkyl glucoside, Dimethicone, Menthol) was added, stirred with turbine for 20 minutes. The mixture was cooled to 45° C. The aluminum chlorhydrate, perlite and fragrance were added and the mixture was stirred with blades then cooled to 25° C.

EXAMPLE 2

Aerosol Formula (Water-in-Silicone Emulsion)

[0320]

TABLE-US-00002 Fluid Fluid Example 4 Example 3 (outside the Ingredients (INCI name) (invention) invention) DIMETHICONE (BELSIL DM 10 ®) 10 cst 20.0 20.0 ALUMINUM CHLOROHYDRATE in 30.0 30.0 aqueous solution at 50% by weight (CLURON 50%®) LAURYL PEG-9 1.0 1.0 POLYDIMETHYLSILOXYETHYL DIMETHICONE (KF-6038 ®) PERLITE (OPTIMAT 1430 OR ®) 0.25 0.25 FRAGRANCE 5.0 5.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.7 0.7 STEARETH-100/PEG-136/ 0.5 — HDI COPOLYMER (RHEOLUXE 811 ®) DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONOL 2.0 2.0 (XIAMETER PMX-1503 FLUID ®) MENTHOL-L (620009 MENTHOL LAEVO 1.0 1.0 PELLETS ®) WATER qs 100 qs 100

[0321] Procedure

[0322] At ambient temperature (20-25° C.), the Dimethicone (and) Dimethiconol, Phenoxyethanol, Dimethicone, Steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI Copolymer were added to the manufacturing tank, with turbomixer stirring. Once the mixture was homogeneous, with turbomixer stirring and at ambient temperature, the aqueous phase (water+aluminum chlorhydrate) was added at a temperature of 40° C., with continued stirring for 10 minutes, and then the mixture was cooled to 25° C. The perlite, fragrance and menthol were added with stirring, then the mixture was homogenized for 5 minutes.

[0323] The fluid was incorporated into a classic aerosol device such as an aerosol device from Précision APSL® with direct output, diameter 0.41 mm.

TABLE-US-00003 Aerosol Aerosol Example 3 Example 4 Ingredients (INCI name) (invention) (invention) Fluid 20.0 20.0 Isobutane 30.0 30.0

[0324] Demonstration of the Effect of Progressive Menthol Release: Analysis According to the Head Space Technique

[0325] 1) Qualitative Analytical Method (Present or Not) for Menthol Released by Adding Water After Application to Skin and Drying:

[0326] Qualitative analyses were run on each of the compositions from examples 1 to 4, after application on the forearm.

[0327] Preparing the Sample and Sampling:

[0328] About 150 mg of each formula was deposited on the skin in a thin layer then left to dry for 1 h in air.

[0329] The sample from the head space (volatile portion) is taken from a developed device composed of a collection tube made of Tenax TA®, connected to a glass bell used to confine the sample and from the other to a pump.

[0330] The analysis was run by thermodesorption from the Tenax TA® tube then gas chromatography coupled with a mass spectrometer.

[0331] 2) Analytical Method for Residual Menthol in the Formula After Application onto an Inert Substrate and Drying:

[0332] Qualitative analyses were run on each of the compositions from examples 1 to 4, after application on an inert substrate.

[0333] Sample Preparation:

[0334] A thin layer of 150 mg of formula was applied to an FHLP-type filter (diameter 47 mm). These deposits were left at ambient temperature (20-25° C.) for 1 hour of drying in air. Each filter+formula pair was extracted with 2 mL of ethanol. The solution obtained containing menthol was analyzed.

[0335] The analyses were run using gas chromatography coupled with a mass spectrometer.

[0336] Results

TABLE-US-00004 Presence of Roll-on Aerosol menthol in Roll-on Example 2 Aerosol Example 4 the head Example 1 (outside the Example 3 (outside the space (invention) invention) (invention) invention) T = 1 hour +++ + +++ + after drying 1.sup.st spray with +++ + +++ + water T = 1.5 hour 2.sup.nd spray +++ − +++ − with water T = 2 hours 3.sup.rd spray ++ − ++ − with water T = 2.5 hours 4.sup.nd spray ++ − ++ − with water T = 3 hours +++ high presence of menthol ++ moderate presence of menthol + low presence of menthol − menthol absent

[0337] The qualitative analyses on the film remaining on the substrate show

[0338] that after one hour of drying, the film formed by the formulas 1 and 3 of the invention containing menthol, combined with the associative polyether polyurethane, present high menthol content whereas formulas 2 and 4 that do not contain the associative polyether polyurethane present low menthol content;

[0339] that after spraying with water at T=1.5 h and T=2 hours, the film formed by formulas 1 and 3 of the invention containing menthol, combined with the associative polyether polyurethane, still presents a high menthol content, by contrast with formulas 2 and 4 that do not contain polyether polyurethane;

[0340] that after spraying with water at T=2.5 h and T=3 hours, the film formed by formulas 1 and 3 of the invention containing menthol, combined with the associative polyether polyurethane, presents a moderate menthol content, by contrast with formulas 2 and 4 that do not contain polyether polyurethane.