Lyocell filament lining fabric

Abstract

A lining fabric (3) for a clothing article (1). The lining fabric (3) is hygroscopic to ensure good wearing comfort, and has sufficient dimensional stability to allow washing in a household laundry machine. The lining fabric (3) is made from yarns (6) containing or consisting of Lyocell filaments (7). The Lyocell filaments (7) have an average linear density of less than 1.5 dtex, preferably less than 1.4 dtex and even more preferred, less than 1.3 dtex. The washing shrinkage after five washings is preferably less than 4% in each of two perpendicular directions.

Claims

1. A lining fabric having at least one layer consisting of yarn, the yarn consisting of Lyocell filaments, wherein, in the conditioned state, the average linear density of the Lyocell filaments in the yarn is between 0.6 and 4 dtex, and wherein the lining fabric has a combined washing shrinkage after five washings of not more than 10%.

2. The lining fabric according to claim 1, wherein each yarn has a linear density between 30 and 200 dtex.

3. The lining fabric according to claim 2, wherein each yarn the washing shrinkage after five washings in one direction is not more than 3.5%.

4. The lining fabric according to claim 1, wherein, in the conditioned state, the average dry tenacity of the Lyocell filaments is at least 30 cN/tex.

5. The lining fabric according to claim 1, wherein, in the conditioned state, the average dry elongation at break of the filaments is at least 6%.

6. The lining fabric according to claim 1, wherein the lining fabric is dyed.

7. The lining fabric according to claim 6, wherein the dye is a reactive dye.

8. The lining fabric according claim 1, wherein the yarn comprises a resin finish.

9. The lining fabric according to claim 1, wherein the at least one layer of the lining fabric is woven and consists of or contains a weft yarn and a warp yarn as the yarn.

10. The lining fabric according to claim 9, wherein the weft yarn is made of Lyocell filaments having a lower average linear density than the Lyocell filaments in the warp yarn.

11. The lining fabric according to claim 9, wherein at least one of the warp yarn and the weft yarn is a ring yarn.

12. A clothing article having an inner side made of a lining fabric according to claim 1.

13. A method of making a lining fabric of a clothing article, the method comprising producing the lining fabric of claim 1.

14. A lining fabric having at least one layer consisting of yarn, the yarn consisting of Lyocell filaments, wherein, in a conditioned state, an average linear density of the Lyocell filaments in the yarn is between 0.8 and 1.5 dtex, and wherein the lining fabric has a combined washing shrinkage after five washings of not more than 10%.

15. A lining fabric having at least one layer consisting of yarn, the yarn consisting of Lyocell filaments, wherein, in a conditioned state, an average linear density of the Lyocell filaments in the yarn is between 0.8 and 1.5 dtex, and wherein the lining fabric has a combined washing shrinkage after fiver washings of not more than 10%, and wherein, in the conditioned state, an average dry tenacity of the Lyocell filaments is 37 cN/tex to 40 cN/tex.

Description

(1) In the drawings:

(2) FIG. 1 shows a schematic drawing of a clothing article having a fabric lining according to the invention;

(3) FIG. 2 shows a schematic view on a test sample of fabric lining according to the invention.

(4) FIG. 1 shows a clothing article 1, e.g. a piece of outerwear, which may be dress-, shirt-, jacket-, coat- or cloak-like. An inner side 2 of the clothing article 1 faces a body (not shown) of a person wearing the clothing article 1. At its inner side, the clothing article 1 is provided with a lining fabric 3 which preferably forms a separate layer from the outer layer 4 of the clothing article 1. The lining fabric 3 may itself comprise several layers.

(5) The lining fabric 3 may be dyed e.g. by jet dyeing or cold pad dyeing.

(6) The lining fabric 3 may be woven as shown schematically in detail A. The woven fabric 5 is woven preferably exclusively from yarn 6 which contains, preferably consists of, Lyocell filaments 7.

(7) Each yarn 6 contains, preferably consists of, between 30 and 100 Lyocell filaments, in particular between 50 and 70 Lyocell filaments.

(8) In the conditioned state, the Lyocell filaments 7 preferably have an average dry tenacity of at least 30 cN/tex, preferably at least 38 cN/tex. The average linear density of the filaments 7 in the yarn 6 is between 0.6 and 4 dtex, preferably between 0.8 and 1.7 dtex and most preferred between 0.8 and 1.5 dtex.

(9) In the conditioned state, the average dry elongation at break of the filaments is at least 6%, preferably between 6% and 8%. As the yarn is made from Lyocell filaments and not from staple fibers, the lining fabric is smooth. The hygroscopic characteristics of Lyocell ensure a comfortable wearing sensation.

(10) The usage of lining fabric made from Lyocell filaments has the further advantage that the lining fabric is dimensionally stable even if washed in a regular household laundry machine.

(11) In particular, the washing shrinkage of the lining fabric 3 is determined on a sample 10 of lining fabric 3 as shown in FIG. 2. The sample 10 is prepared according to standard EN ISO 3759, the principal directions 11, 12 being perpendicular to each other and being aligned with the direction of the warp 13 and the weft 14, respectively. Washing shrinkage is determined on the sample 10, the washing conforming to standard EN ISO 6330. The washing shrinkage in any one of the two perpendicular directions after one washing is preferably not more than 2%, and/or after five washings not more than 3.5% in at least one of, preferably both, the perpendicular directions.

(12) A combined washing shrinkage may be determined by adding the absolute value of the shrinkage in each of the two perpendicular directions. The combined shrinkage after one washing is preferably not more than 10%, more preferably not more than 7% after five washings. With the lining fabric according to the invention, even a combined washing shrinkage of no more than 3% can be attained after five washings. The combined washing shrinkage after one washing may be not more than 3%, preferably not more than 2%.

(13) The yarn 6 used for the weft 12 may have a lower linear density than the yarn 6 used for the warp 12. In particular, the average linear density of the weft yarn may be less than 1.2 dtex.

(14) The lining fabric 3 may be provided with a resin finish.

(15) First Embodiment

(16) According to a first embodiment, a filament Lyocell woven fabric suitable for use as a lining fabric, having a plain weave of 70 gsm, was processed on a jig-dyeing machine.

(17) The fabric was pre-scoured for 30 minutes at 70° C. in a bath that contained 2 g/l anionic detergent and 2 g/l sodium carbonate.

(18) Then, the fabric was rinsed in warm water to clear the chemicals and dyed afterwards.

(19) The dye bath was set at 60° C. with 50 g/l sodium sulphate. After 5 minutes of running, 6% owg Remazol Navy RGB (vinyl sulphone reactive dye) was added portionwise over 15 minutes.

(20) After continuing to run the fabric end to end for 15 minutes, 18 g/l sodium carbonate was metered into the dye bath for over 30 minutes. The dyeing continued for 30 minutes further to allow time for the dyes to fix. The dye bath was then drained and the fabric was washed in six baths as follows: (1) warm water at 50° C., (2) neutralization at 70° C. for 10 minutes in 1 cc/l acetic acid (70%), (3) water at 80° C., (4) boiling for 10 minutes at 95° C. with anionic detergent, (5) water at 80° C., and (6) cold water.

(21) The washing was then completed by treatment for 15 minutes at 95° C. in 1 g/l anionic detergent and further rinsed until the washing liquors were clear.

(22) The fabric was then removed from the jig-dyeing machine and the fabric dried on a stenter frame at 110° C. after being passed over a suction slot to remove excess water.

(23) After drying, the fabric was resonated as follows:

(24) Pad at 75% wet pick up in: 45 g/l Fixapret ECO (DMDHEU resin from BASF) 20 g/l Siligen VN (softener) 14 g/l Siligen SIN (softener) 15 g/l magnesium chloride 1 g/l acetic acid 1 g/l Kieralon Jet B conc (wetting agent)

(25) Pad at 70-80% pick up: Drying at 120° C. followed by curing at 170° C. for 3 minutes on a stenter frame.

(26) The application of a resin prevented fibrillation from occurring in laundering.

(27) The navy lining fabric was suitable as a washable jacket lining.

(28) Second Embodiment

(29) In a second embodiment, a Lyocell filament woven fabric suitable for use as a lining, again a plain weave of 70 gsm, was processed on a jig dyeing machine.

(30) The fabric was pre-scoured for 30 minutes at 70° C. in a bath that contains 2 g/l anionic detergent and 2 g/l sodium carbonate. The fabric was then rinsed in warm water to clear the chemicals. The fabric was then dyed using a dye bath set at 60° C. with 50 g/l sodium sulphate. After 5 minutes running, 8% owg Remazol Midnight Black RGB (bi-reactive vinyl sulphone dye) was added portionwise over 15 minutes.

(31) After continuing to run the fabric end to end for 15 minutes, 20 g/l sodium carbonate was metered into the dye bath for over 30 minutes. The dyeing continued for a further 40 minutes to allow time for the dye to fix. The dye bath was then drained and the fabric was washed in six baths as follows: (1) warm water at 50° C., (2) neutralization at 70° C. for 10 minutes in 1 cc/l acetic acid (70%), (3) water at 80° C., (4) boiling for 10 minutes at 95° C. with anionic detergent, (5) water at 80° C., and (6) cold water. The washing was then completed by treatment for 15 minutes at 95° C. in 1 g/l anionic detergent and further rinsing was carried out until the washing liquors were clear.

(32) The fabric was then removed from the jig dyeing machine and dried on a stenter frame at 110° C. after being passed over a suction slot to remove excess water.

(33) The black fabric was suitable for domestic laundering without fibrillation occurring.

(34) Examples

(35) The following examples demonstrate the superior properties of the Lyocell lining fabric according to the invention over lining fabric made from acetate, viscose and cupro filaments.

(36) Examples 1 to 3 in Table 1 show the properties of a Lyocell lining fabric according to the invention; comparative examples 1 to 5 in Table 2 show the properties of a lining fabric made of acetate, viscose, and cupro filaments.

(37) The yarn of which the fabric lining according to Examples 1 to 3 was generated as follows:

(38) The sample 1, 2 and 3 were produced to obtain a lining woven material in the range of 80-95 g/m.sup.2. The configuration, material and properties of sample 1 to 3 were summarized in table 1 (weight, density, weave, yarnconstruction).

(39) Pulp (cellulose) was impregnated with a 78% watery N-methyl-morpholine-N-oxide (NMMO) solution, with and stabilizers and additives. The resulting suspension contained 11.6% cellulose, 68% NMMO, 20.4% water and stabilizer GPE. The pulp consisted of a mixture of sulfite and sulfate cellulose.

(40) Excess water was evaporated from the resulting slurry under shear, vacuum and heating, to obtain a fiber-free spinning solution. The spinning solution contained 13% cellulose and 75.3% NMMO, the rest being water.

(41) The spinning solution was filtered and extruded at 114° C. in a dry-wet process, wherein the spinning solution was extruded through nozzles into an air gap. For stabilizing the extrusion process, the air gap was provided with an air stream.

(42) After crossing the air gap, the cellulose precipitated in a spinning bath containing 10% NMMO, the rest being water.

(43) The endless filaments thus obtained were washed with water, impregnated with finish, dried and winded to a bobbin. A multi-filament consisting of single filaments was generated. From the multi-filaments, untwisted filament yarn was manufactured. From the filament yarns, the fabric lining according to the invention was woven. The linear density of the yarn was between 20 and 200 dtex, preferably between 50 and 150 dtex.

(44) For other details of the manufacturing process, reference is made to U.S. Pat. No. 4,246,221, WO 02/18682 A1 and WO 02/72929 A1.

(45) The fabric lining was washed as specified in EN ISO 6330 using Fewa Renew 3D Color Effect, manufactured by Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, as a detergent and unsoftened washing water at 40° C. After each washing, drum drying was used. Shrinking was determined after conditioning to an atmosphere having 65% humidity at 20° C. using a sample prepared according to EN ISO 3759.

(46) The lining fabrics according to comparative examples 4 to 9 were obtained from commercially available woven fabrics. They were washed, dried and conditioned in the same manner as the examples 1 to 3.

(47) It can be seen that the lining fabric according to the invention which was made from Lyocell yarn has superior dimensional stability as compared to the lining fabric after one and five washings.

(48) It further can be seen that the linear density of the Lyocell filaments in Examples 1 to 3 is lower than for the comparative examples 1 to 5.

(49) TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Examples Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 material analysis warp Lyocell filaments Lyocell filaments Lyocell filaments bright single bright Single bright Single filament count: filament count: filament count: 1.36 dtex 1.41 dtex 1.24 dtex material analysis weft Lyocell filaments Lyocell filaments Lyocell filaments Single filament Single filament Single filament count: 1.35, dtex count: 1.41 dtex count: 1.26 dtex same as warp same as warp same as warp finishing route desized, desized, cold desized, fibrillation, pad dye fibrillation, cold pad dye, cold pad dye, after treatment, after treatment, finished product finished product Weight (g/m.sup.2) 81 91 95 Density warp (ends/dm) 598 700 735 Density weft (ends/dm) 386 388 390 weave plain cavalry cavalry Yarn count warp (dtex) 78 81 82 Yarn count weft (dtex) 82 82 83 Number of filaments warp 60 60 60 Number of filaments weft 60 60 60 washing shrinkage warp direction % after 1st wash −1 −1.7 1 after 5th wash −2.3 −3 −0.7 washing shrinkage weft direction % after 1st wash 0 1 1 after 5th wash −1 1.3 2.3 combined washing shrinkage % after 1st wash 1 2.7 2 after 5th wash 3.3 4.3 3

(50) TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Comparative Examples Comparative Comparative Comparative Comparative Comparative Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 material and 100% Acetate 100% Viscose 100% Cupro 100% Viscose 100% Viscose weaving Pongé Taft Taft Satin Taft pattern material 100% Acetate 100% Viscose 100% Cupro 100% Viscose 100% Viscose analysis warp fiber bright bright single bright Single bright Single bright single single filament filament filament filament count: filament count: 3.59 count: 3.01 count: 1.62 2.57 dtex count: 2.83 dtex dtex dtex dtex material 100% Acetate 100% Viscose 100% Cupro 100% Viscose 100% Viscose analysis weft fiber bright bright single bright single bright single bright single single filament filament filament filament count: filament count: 4.17 count: 2.88 count: 1.40 2.91 dtex effect count: 2.96 dtex dtex dtex yarn: 100% dtex Viscose bright single filament count: 2.70 dtex weight g/m.sup.2 60 71 55 108 69 Density warp 408 450 478 758 460 (ends/dm) Density weft 264 298 364 278 274 (ends/dm) yarn count - 73 79 73 87 78 warp dtex yarn count - 108 124 70 145 123 weft dtex weave plain plain plain Satin plain Number of 20 24 36 30 30 filaments warp Number of 25 38 43 44 38 filaments weft washing shrinkage warp direction % After 1st wash 0 −6 −3.6 −4.6 −6 after 5th wash −3.7 −10 −2.9 −5.9 −7.7 washing shrinkage weft direction % after 1st wash −3.3 −6 −3.3 −3.9 −3 after 5th wash −5.6 −8.3 −2.3 −3.6 −2.3 combined washing shrinkage % after 1st wash 3.3 12 6.9 8.5 9 after 5th wash 9.3 18.3 5.2 9.5 10

REFERENCE NUMERALS

(51) 1 clothing article 2 inner side 3 lining fabric 4 outer layer 5 woven fabric 6 yarn 7 Lyocell filaments 10 sample 11, 12 perpendicular directions of sample 13 warp 14 weft