COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING AN AUTOASSOCIATIVE POLYURETHANE, A FATTY ALCOHOL OR ACID, A NONIONIC SURFACTANT, AND A PIGMENT

20170354587 · 2017-12-14

    Inventors

    Cpc classification

    International classification

    Abstract

    This invention relates to a composition, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, containing: at least one associative polyurethane complying with the formula (I), at least one nonionic surfactant, at least one fatty alcohol or one fatty acid comprising a fatty chain containing at least 20 carbon atoms, and at least one pigment,
    wherein the content of associative polyurethane active substance having formula (I) is strictly greater than 1.5% by weight in relation to the total weight of said composition.

    Claims

    1. A composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, containing: at least one associative polyurethane complying with the following formula (I): ##STR00004## in which: R.sup.1 and R.sup.4 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched bivalent hydrocarbon radical, comprising 8 to 36 carbon atoms, A.sup.1, A.sup.2 and A.sup.3 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched alkylene radical, having 2 to 4 carbon atoms; m and n represent, independently of each other, an integer between 0 and 1,000, p represents an integer between 5 and 500, q represents an integer between 1 and 8, R.sup.2 and R.sup.3 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched bivalent hydrocarbon radical, comprising 1 to 30 carbon atoms, at least one nonionic surfactant, at least one fatty alcohol or one fatty acid comprising a fatty chain containing at least 20 carbon atoms, and at least one pigment, wherein the content of associative polyurethane active substance having formula (I) is strictly greater than 1.5% by weight in relation to the total weight of said composition.

    2. The composition according to claim 1, comprising 2% to 10% by weight of associative polyurethane active substance having formula (I) in relation to the total weight of said composition.

    3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein, in formula (I), A.sup.1, A.sup.2 and A.sup.3 represent an ethylene radical.

    4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein, in formula (I), m and n represent, independently of each other, an integer between 1 and 500.

    5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein, in formula (I), R.sup.1 and R.sup.4 represent, independently of each other, a linear alkyl group comprising 8 to 36 carbon atoms.

    6. The composition according to claim 4, wherein, in formula (I), R.sup.1 and R.sup.4 represent a linear alkyl group comprising 18 carbon atoms.

    7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein, in formula (I), m and n represent, independently of each other, an integer between 50 and 200.

    8. The composition according to claim 1, comprising 0.1% to 10% by weight of fatty acid(s) or fatty alcohol(s), in relation to the total weight of said composition

    9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the nonionic surfactant is chosen in the group consisting of alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of poly(ethylene oxide), oxyethylene alcohols, alkyl-et polyalkyl-ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or not, alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or not, alkyl- and polyalkyl-glycosides or polyglycosides, alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of sucrose, alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of glucose, alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of glycerol, polyoxyethylenated or not, alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers of glycerol, polyoxyethylenated or not, gemini surfactants, silicone surfactants, cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

    10. The composition according to claim 1, comprising 0.5% to 10% by weight of nonionic surfactant in relation to the total weight of said composition.

    11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the pigment is chosen from among pigment particles coated by at least one lipophilic compound.

    12. The composition according to claim 11, wherein the coated pigment particles are iron oxide and/or titanium oxide particles coated with a lipophilic compound chosen from the group consisting of disodium stearoyl glutamate, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, dimethicone, triethoxy caprylylsilane, hydrogenated lecithin and mixtures thereof.

    13. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one volatile oil, preferably at least one volatile silicone oil.

    14. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one filler.

    15. The composition according to claim 1, in the form of a foundation.

    16. A non-therapeutic skin makeup and/or skincare method, including a step for applying on the skin at least one layer of a composition according to claim 15.

    17. The composition according to claim 2, wherein, in formula (I), A.sup.1, A.sup.2 and A.sup.3 represent an ethylene radical.

    18. The composition according to claim 2, wherein, in formula (I), m and n represent, independently of each other, an integer between 1 and 500.

    19. The composition according to claim 3, wherein, in formula (I), m and n represent, independently of each other, an integer between 1 and 500.

    20. The composition according to claim 1, wherein, in formula (I), R.sup.1 and R.sup.4 represent, independently of each other, a linear alkyl group comprising 8 to 36 carbon atoms.

    Description

    EXAMPLES

    [0337] The various compositions were evaluated in respect of the appearance thereof, cosmetics thereof, particularly the application property thereof.

    [0338] The compositions below are prepared and tested according to the protocols described hereinafter.

    TABLE-US-00001 Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 (invention) (invention) (invention) (comparative) Phase Chemical name Content Content Content Content A1 BIS-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 DIMETHICONE (and) CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (Abil Care 85, Evonik) ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (and) BEHENYL 1.9 ALCOHOL (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE (Montanov 202, Seppic) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) GLYCERYL 1.9 STEARATE (and) DISODIUM ETHYLENE DICOCAMIDE PEG-15 DISULFATE (and) GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE (Ceralution H, Sasol) BEHENYL ALCOHOL 1.9 Stearic acid 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 Stearyl alcohol 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 Cyclohexadimethicone 9.7 9.7 9.7 9.7 A2 Pigments coated with Disodium Stearoyl 10 10 10 10 Glutamate & Aluminum Hydroxide (=NAI from Myioshi) Cyclohexadimethicone 5 5 5 5 B Water Qsp100 Qsp100 Qsp100 Qsp100 Glycerin 5 5 5 5 Mono-di-palmito-stearate of sucrose (TEGO 1.9 1.9 1.9 1.9 CARE SE 121 from EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT) C Cyclohexadimethicone 5 5 5 5 Steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI copolymer 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 (RHEOLATE FX-1100, Elementis) D FILLER (KSP-300 Shin Etsu) 1 1 1 1 D FILLER Cellulose 1 1 1 1 E Preservatives 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Pentylene Glycol 4 4 4 4

    [0339] Composition Preparation Protocol

    [0340] The phase A1 is heated to a temperature that allows all of the constituents to be melted (about 75°-80° C.) then the phase A2 is introduced into the phase A1 under Raynerie stirring, keeping the whole at 65° C.

    [0341] The aqueous phase B is placed in Raynerie under stirring and heated to 70 so that all of the ingredients are melted, the temperature is then brought to 65° C. Preparation of the emulsion: still at 65° C., the phase Al+A2 is incorporated into B in the Raynerie and the whole is stirred for 10 minutes then the phase C is added (by increasing the speed if necessary). After 10 minutes the phase D is added and after 5 minutes the phase E is added. The composition is stirred again for 15 minutes.

    [0342] Evaluation of the Compositions

    [0343] The compositions of examples 1 and 2 comprise, as surfactants, mixtures of compounds comprising C20 and C22 fatty chains. For these compositions, the formulas obtained are compact and therefore have a satisfactory aspect while still allowing for a good application and a natural result.

    [0344] The composition of example 3 comprises a C22 fatty alcohol. For this composition, the formula obtained is compact and therefore has a satisfactory aspect while still allowing for a good application and a natural result.

    [0345] The composition of example 4 comprises a C18 surfactant and therefore does not contain any fatty acid or alcohol according to the invention. For this composition, the formula obtained is not compact but is rather soft and elastic.

    [0346] It has therefore been shown that for a composition that does not contain fatty alcohol or acid according to the invention, namely an fatty alcohol or acid with a fatty chain comprising at least 20 carbon atoms, the formula obtained is not nomad as it is too liquid. In addition, taking the product on the finger or a sponge is not good because, as the product is too soft, the quantity of the product taken is excessive.