HAIR DYEING PROCESS USING AT LEAST ONE DYE, AN ORGANIC TITANIUM SALT, AND A NON-CELLULOSIC-BASED POLYSACCHARIDE

20170354584 · 2017-12-14

    Inventors

    Cpc classification

    International classification

    Abstract

    The present invention relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, in which said fibres are treated using one or more cosmetic compositions comprising a) one or more dye(s), b) one or more titanium salts and optionally b1) at least one carboxylic acid, and c) one or more non-cellulosic-based polysaccharides, and d) optionally one or more chemical oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide or one or more hydrogen peroxide-generating systems.

    Claims

    1.-20. (canceled)

    21. A method for dyeing keratin fibers, comprising applying to the fibers a composition comprising: a) at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes, direct synthetic dyes, or dyes of natural origin; b) at least one titanium salt; b1) optionally, at least one carboxylic acid according to formula (I) below, or salts thereof: ##STR00021## wherein: A is chosen from a monovalent group when n is 0 or a polyvalent group when n is greater than or equal to 1; or a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic and aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 50 carbon atoms which is optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom and/or optionally substituted; and n is an integer ranging from 0 to 10; and c) optionally, at least one non-cellulosic-based polysaccharide.

    22. The method according to claim 21, wherein the at least one dye is chosen from direct dyes.

    23. The method according to claim 21, wherein the at least one dye is an ortho-diphenol comprising an aromatic ring, wherein the aromatic ring is chosen from benzene, naphthalene, tetrahydronaphthalene, indane, indene, anthracene, phenanthrene, isoindole, indoline, isoindoline, benzofuran, dihydrobenzofuran, chroman, isochroman, chromene, isochromene, quinoline, tetrahydroquinoline, or isoquinoline, wherein the aromatic ring comprises at least two hydroxyl groups carried by two contiguous adjacent atoms of the aromatic ring.

    24. The method according to claim 21, wherein the at least one dye is an ortho-diphenol according to formula (II) below, oligomers, tautomers, optical isomers, geometrical isomers, salts, solvates, or hydrates thereof: ##STR00022## wherein: R.sup.1 to R.sup.4, which may be identical or different, are chosen from: i) hydrogen, ii) halogen atoms, iii) hydroxyl groups, iv) carboxyl groups, v) (C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkyl carboxylate or (C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkoxycarbonyl groups, vi) optionally substituted amino groups, vii) optionally substituted linear or branched (C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkyl groups, viii) optionally substituted linear or branched (C.sub.2-C.sub.20)alkenyl groups, ix) optionally substituted cycloalkyl groups, x) (C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkoxy groups, xi) (C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkoxy(C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkyl groups, xii) (C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkoxyaryl groups, xiii) aryl groups which may optionally be substituted, xiv) aryl groups, xv) substituted aryl groups, xvi) heterocyclic groups which are saturated or unsaturated, optionally bearing a cationic or anionic charge and which are optionally substituted and/or optionally fused with an aromatic ring, the aromatic ring optionally substituted, or xvii) radical groups containing at least one silicon atom; or, optionally: two of the substituents borne by two adjacent carbon atoms R.sup.1-R.sup.2, R.sup.2-R.sup.3 or R.sup.3-R.sup.4 optionally form, together with the carbon atoms bearing them, a saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic ring optionally containing at least one heteroatom and optionally fused with at least one saturated or unsaturated ring optionally containing at least one heteroatom; R.sup.1 to R.sup.4 together form from one to four rings; or R.sup.2 and R.sup.3 form a pyrrolyl or pyrrolidinyl radical fused to the benzene ring bearing the two hydroxyls.

    25. The method according to claim 21, wherein the at least one dye is an ortho-diphenol chosen from: flavanols; anthocyanidins; anthocyanins or anthocyans; ortho-hydroxybenzoates; flavones; hydroxystilbenes; 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine or derivatives thereof; 2,3-dihydroxyphenylalanine or derivatives thereof; 4,5-dihydroxyphenylalanine or derivatives thereof; dihydroxycinnamates; ortho-polyhydroxycoumarins; ortho-polyhydroxyisocoumarins; ortho-polyhydroxycoumarones; ortho-polyhydroxyisocoumarones; ortho-polyhydroxychalcones; ortho-polyhydroxychromones; quinones; hydroxyxanthones; 1,2-dihydroxybenzene or derivatives thereof; 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene or derivatives thereof; 1,2,3-trihydroxybenzene or derivatives thereof; 2,4,5-trihydroxytoluene or derivatives thereof; proanthocyanidins; chromans or chromenes; proanthocyanins; tannic acid; ellagic acid; or mixtures thereof.

    26. The method according to claim 21, wherein the at least one dye is an ortho-diphenol chosen from extracts of animals, bacteria, fungi, algae, plants, or fruit.

    27. The method according to claim 21, wherein the composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid chosen from compounds according to formula (I) wherein A is chosen from monovalent (C.sub.1-C.sub.6)alkyl groups or polyvalent (C.sub.1-C.sub.6)alkylene groups optionally substituted with at least one hydroxyl group, and n is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.

    28. The method according to claim 21, wherein the composition comprises at least carboxylic acid present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

    29. The method according to claim 21, wherein the at least one titanium salt is chosen from organic or mineral titanium salts.

    30. The method according to claim 29, wherein the organic titanium salts are derived from the reaction of at least one organic acid with titanium, wherein the at least one organic acid is chosen from organic acids comprising: a) at least one optionally unsaturated, linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.20 hydrocarbon-based chain, or a (hetero)cycloalkyl or (hetero)aryl group; and b) at least one acid chemical function chosen from carboxyl COOH, sulfuric SO.sub.3H, SO.sub.2H, or phosphoric PO.sub.3H.sub.2, PO.sub.4H.sub.2.

    31. The method according to claim 30, wherein the composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid represented by formula (I); and wherein the at least one carboxylic acid is different from the at least one organic acid that the organic titanium salt is derived from.

    32. The method according to claim 29, wherein the organic titanium salts are chosen from those compounds according to formula (I-A) below: ##STR00023## wherein: A is chosen from a monovalent group when n is 0 or a polyvalent group when n is greater than or equal to 1; or a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic and aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 50 carbon atoms which is optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom and/or optionally substituted; n, n′, and n″, which may be identical or different, are integers chosen from 1, 2, 3, or 4, wherein n′+n″=6; M.sub.1 and M.sub.2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from a cationic counterion; and TiY.sub.n″ is chosen from Ti(OH).sub.n″, Ti(O).sub.n″/2, or Ti(OH).sub.m1(O).sub.m2 with m.sub.1+m.sub.2=n″.

    33. The method according to claim 29, wherein the organic titanium salts are dihydroxybis(lactato)titanium(IV) salts according to the formula below: ##STR00024##

    34. The method according to claim 21, wherein the composition comprises at least one non-cellulosic-based polysaccharide chosen from glucans, modified or unmodified starches, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, mannans, xylans, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids or pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, gum arabics, gum tragacanths, ghatti gums, karaya gums, locust bean gums, galactomannans, or mixtures thereof.

    35. The method according to claim 21, further comprising applying at least one chemical oxidizing agent to the hair, said chemical oxidizing agent chosen from hydrogen peroxide or at least one hydrogen peroxide-generating system.

    36. The method according to claim 21, further comprising applying at least one basifying agent to the hair, said basifying agent chosen from i) (bi)carbonates, ii) aqueous ammonia, iii) alkanolamines or derivatives thereof, iv) oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, v) mineral or organic hydroxides, vi) alkali metal silicates, vii) amino acids, or viii) the compounds according to formula (XI) below: ##STR00025## wherein: W is chosen from a divalent (C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkylene radical optionally substituted by at least one hydroxyl group, or at least one (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl radical and/or optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom, or an —N(R.sub.e)— group; and R.sub.a, R.sub.b, R.sub.c, R.sub.d, and R.sub.e, which are identical or different, are chosen from a hydrogen atom, a (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl or hydroxy(C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl radical; or mixtures thereof.

    37. The method according to claim 21, wherein the composition has a pH of less than 7.

    38. The method according to claim 21, wherein the composition comprises: a) at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes, direct synthetic dyes, or dyes of natural origin; b) at least one titanium salt; c) at least one non-cellulosic-based polysaccharide, and at least one solvent; wherein the pH of the composition is less than 7.

    39. The method according to claim 21, comprising: applying to the keratin fibers a dyeing composition comprising: a) at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes, direct synthetic dyes, or dyes of natural origin; b) at least one titanium salt; b1) optionally, at least one carboxylic acid according to formula (I) below, or salts thereof: ##STR00026## wherein: A is chosen from a monovalent group when n is 0 or a polyvalent group when n is greater than or equal to 1; or a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic and aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 50 carbon atoms which is optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom and/or optionally substituted; and n is an integer ranging from 0 to 10; and c) optionally, at least one non-cellulosic-based polysaccharide; wherein the dyeing composition has a pH of less than 7; and applying to the keratin fibers an alkaline composition comprising: d) optionally, at least one non-cellulosic-based polysaccharide; e) optionally, at least one chemical oxidizing agent chosen from hydrogen peroxide or at least one hydrogen peroxide-generating system; and f) at least one basifying agent; wherein the alkaline composition has a pH greater than 7.

    40. A multi-compartment device comprising from 2 to 5 compartments containing from 2 to 5 compositions, the device comprising: a) at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes, direct synthetic dyes, or dyes of natural origin; b) at least one titanium salt; b1) optionally, at least one carboxylic acid according to formula (I) below, or salts thereof: ##STR00027## wherein: A is chosen from a monovalent group when n is 0 or a polyvalent group when n is greater than or equal to 1; or a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic and aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 50 carbon atoms which is optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom and/or optionally substituted; and n is an integer ranging from 0 to 10; c) optionally, at least one non-cellulosic-based polysaccharide; d) at least one chemical oxidizing agent chosen from hydrogen peroxide or at least one hydrogen peroxide-generating system; and e) at least one basifying agent; wherein at least one compartment further comprises water.

    Description

    EXAMPLES OF DYEING

    Example 1

    [0377] The following compositions are prepared from the following ingredients in the following proportions, indicated in grams per 100 grams of composition:

    Dyeing Composition:

    [0378]

    TABLE-US-00001 Composition 1 Amount Extract of logwood containing 76% haematoxylin: a)   4 g Dihydroxybis(ammonium lactato)titanium(IV) at 50% by weight: b) 10.3 g Scleroglucan gum (sclerotium gum) sold by Alban   1 g Muller under the trade name Amigal Granule: c) Ethanol   10 g Benzyl alcohol   5 g Glycolic acid   15 g Water qs  100 g pH agent (sulfuric acid) qs pH = 2 ± 0.3

    Developing Composition:

    [0379]

    TABLE-US-00002 Composition B Amount Aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution (50%): d)  1.7 g Sodium bicarbonate: e)    5 g L-Arginine: e)    7 g Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate sold under the name    5 g Structure Zea by Akzo Nobel Water qs  100 g pH agent (sodium hydroxide) pH 10.2 ± 0.3
    Dye composition 1 and then composition B are applied with a brush to the following types of hair: [0380] natural and permanent-waved Caucasian hair containing 90% white hairs, [0381] natural Chinese hair containing 100% white hairs.
    Composition 1 is then left in place for a time of 45 minutes at 40° C. and composition B is left in place for 15 minutes at 40° C. Rinsing is performed before applying composition B.
    After these leave-on times, the locks are washed with Elvive multivitamin shampoo, rinsed and then dried under a hood.

    Dyeing Results

    [0382] It is found that very strongly coloured black locks are obtained, which is corroborated by the colorimetric measurements below. In addition, it is seen that the colouring is visually homogeneous and persistent with respect to successive shampooing.

    [0383] The colour of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L* a* b* system using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3600D colorimeter. In this L* a* b* system, the three parameters denote, respectively, the colour intensity (L*), the green/red colour axis (a*) and the blue/yellow colour axis (b*).

    Colour Build-Up:

    [0384] The variation in colouring between the locks of natural hair comprising 90% white hairs or of Chinese hair containing 100% white hairs before and after treatment or dyeing are defined by (ΔE*) according to the following equation:


    ΔE*=√{square root over ((L*−L.sub.o*).sup.2+(a*−a.sub.o*).sup.2+(b*−b.sub.o*).sup.2)}

    [0385] In this equation, L*, a* and b* represent the values measured on locks of hair after dyeing and L.sub.0*, a.sub.0* and b.sub.0* represent the values measured on locks of undyed virgin hair. The higher the ΔE* value, the better the colour build-up.

    [0386] The results L, a, b of colour build-up are collated in the table below:

    TABLE-US-00003 ΔE* Types of hair and treatment Colour L* a* b* build-up Undyed reference hair Natural Caucasian, 90% — 68.92 1.64 20.44 — white Natural Chinese, 100% white — 79.33 2.65 28.19 — Composition 1 then B Natural Caucasian, 90% Black 20.47 0.63 1.04 52.20 white Natural Chinese, 100% white Black 22.74 0.9 0.91 62.85

    Example 2

    [0387] Dye compositions 3 and 4 below are prepared according to the same protocol as in Example 1:

    TABLE-US-00004 Compositions 3 4 Extract of logwood containing 76%   4 g   4 g haematoxylin a) Dihydroxybis(ammonium lactato)titanium(IV) at 50% by weight b) 10.3 g 10.3 g Pectin low methoxyl citrus standardized, sold   1 g — under the name Unipectine OF 600 C by Cargill c) Xanthan gum, sold under the name Rhodicare —   1 g XC by Solvay c) Ethanol   15 g   15 g Benzyl alcohol   5 g   5 g Glycolic acid   15 g   15 g Water qs qs  100 g  100 g pH agent qs pH = 2

    [0388] After the keratin fibres have been treated with compositions 3 and 4 the locks obtained are a very strong and intense black.