DYE COMPOSITION COMPRISING A PARA-PHENYLENEDIAMINE OXIDATION BASE, A POLYSACCHARIDE THICKENER IN A MEDIUM RICH IN FATTY SUBSTANCES
20170348210 · 2017-12-07
Inventors
Cpc classification
A61K8/342
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/92
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
A61K8/92
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
The present invention relates to a composition for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising: a) at least one oxidation base 3-(2,5-diaminophenyl)-1-propanol and/or acid salts thereof or solvates thereof such as hydrates; b) at least one coupler; c) at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of a fatty substance which is preferably liquid and non-silicone-based; d) at least one saccharide thickening polymerp; e) optionally at least one basifying agent; and f) optionally at least one chemical oxidizing agent. The invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres such as the hair using the composition of the invention, and to a multi-compartment device for using the composition of the invention.
Claims
1. Composition comprising: a) at least one oxidation base 3-(2,5-diaminophenyl)-1-propanol and/or acid salts thereof and/or solvates thereof such as hydrates; b) at least one coupler; c) at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one fatty substance; d) at least one polysaccharide thickening polymer; e) optionally at least one basifying agent; and f) optionally at least one chemical oxidizing agent.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the fatty substance(s) are chosen from C.sub.6-C.sub.16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, plant oils of triglyceride type, synthetic triglycerides, fluoro oils, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols other than triglycerides and plant waxes, non-silicone waxes and silicones.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance(s) are liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, and are preferably non-silicone-based.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substances are chosen from C6-C16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, triglycerides, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, or mixtures thereof, and preferably from liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the concentration of fatty substances ranges from 15% to 80% by weight, preferably from 25% to 75% by weight, in particular from 30% to 70% by weight and advantageously from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polysaccharide thickening polymer(s) are chosen from associative or non-associative cellulose-based polymers.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polysaccharide thickening polymer is chosen from quaternized (poly)hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl group(s), preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polysaccharide thickening polymer is chosen from non-associative polymers, preferably guar gum, guar gums modified with (poly)hydroxyl(C.sub.1-C.sub.6)alkyl groups and/or cellulose, and hydroxy (C.sub.1-C.sub.6)alkylcelluloses.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polysaccharide thickening polymer(s) are present in a content ranging from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 3% and more preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oxidation base(s) chosen from 3-(2,5-diaminophenyl)-1-propanol, acid salts thereof or solvates thereof such as hydrates, are in an amount ranging from 0.0001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.005% to 10% by weight and in particular from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the coupler is chosen from meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based couplers and heterocyclic couplers, and the addition salts thereof.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which comprises at least one basifying agent chosen from ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, organic amines chosen from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and the compounds of formula (II), or mixtures thereof: ##STR00003## in which formula (II) W is a divalent C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkylene radical optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups or a C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl radical, and/or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms such as O, or NR.sub.u; R.sub.x, R.sub.y, R.sub.z, R.sub.t and R.sub.u, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl, C.sub.1-C.sub.6 hydroxyalkyl or C.sub.1-C.sub.6 aminoalkyl radical.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the basifying agent is chosen from ammonia or alkanolamines, preferably monoethanolamine, and neutral or ionic amino acids.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which comprises a chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
15. Process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular the hair, comprising the application to the keratin fibres of the composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims.
16. Process according to the preceding claim, in which the composition as described according to any one of claims 1 to 13 is obtained by mixing at least two compositions, a first composition (A) which comprises the oxidation base 3-(2,5-diaminophenyl)-1-propanol and/or one of acid salts or solvates and a second composition (B) which comprises at least one chemical oxidizing agent, it being understood that: at least one of the compositions (A) or (B) comprises the fatty substance(s) and the polysaccharide thickening polymer(s) as defined previously such that the fatty substance content of the composition resulting from the mixing of compositions (A) and (B) is at least 10%, preferably greater than 25%, preferably greater than 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition derived from the mixing of (A) and (B).
17. Process according to claim 15, in which the composition applied to the fibres is obtained from composition (A), from composition (B) and from a third composition at least partly comprising the fatty substance(s), this third composition preferably being anhydrous.
18. Multi-compartment device comprising a first compartment containing composition (A) which comprises the oxidation base 3-(2,5-diaminophenyl)-1-propanol and/or one of acid salts or solvates and a second compartment containing composition (B) which comprises at least one chemical oxidizing agent, and it being understood that at least one of the compositions (A) or (B) comprises the fatty substance(s) and the polysaccharide thickening polymer(s), as defined previously such that the fatty substance content of the composition resulting from the mixing of compositions (A) and (B) is at least 10%, preferably greater than 25%, preferably greater than 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition derived from the mixing of (A) and (B).
Description
EXAMPLES
Example 1
[0215] The following compositions are prepared in which the amounts are expressed in grams of active materials.
[0216] Dye Compositions (g %)
TABLE-US-00001 formula formula Chemical name A B Sodium metabisulfite in powder form 0.45 0.45 Pure monoethanolamine 4.65 4.57 Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid 0.2 0.2 6-Hydroxybenzomorpholine 0.04 1-β-Hydroxyethyloxy-2,4-diaminobenzene 0.16 dihydrochloride 2-Methyl-1,3-dihydroxybenzene (2-methylresorcinol) 0.17 N,N-Bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine sulfate 0.13 monohydrate 1,3-Dihydroxybenzene (resorcinol) 1 0.2 1-Hydroxy-3-aminobenzene 0.16 0.025 3-(2,5-Diaminophenyl)propan-1-ol hydrochloride 2.8 0.7 Mineral oil (INCI name) 60 60 Perfume 0.7 0.7 Polyquaternium-67 (cationic lauryl ether cellulose) 0.19 0.19 sold under the name Softcat Polymer SL-100 by Amerchol Deionized water qs 100 qs 100 Oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (2 OE) 1.1 1.1 Oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (20 OE) 3.9 3.9 Caprylyl/capryl glucoside (INCI name) 2.4 2.4 Oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 OE) 2.4 2.4 Vitamin C:ascorbic acid 0.25 0.25
[0217] Oxidizing Composition C (g %)
TABLE-US-00002 Ingredients Composition C Pentasodium pentetate 0.06 Hydrogen peroxide 6 Sodium stannate 0.04 Phosphoric acid qs pH = 2.2 Tetrasodium pyrophosphate 0.03 Mineral oil 20 Hexadimethrine chloride 0.15 Polyquaternium-6 0.2 Water qs 100 Glycerol 0.5 Cetearyl alcohol 6 Steareth-20 5 PEG-4 Rapeseedamide 1.2 Tocopherol 0.1
[0218] At the time of use, each of the compositions A and B is mixed with one time its own weight of oxidizing composition C.
[0219] The mixtures thus obtained are applied to natural hair containing 90% white hairs.
[0220] After a leave-on time of 35 minutes at room temperature, the hair is rinsed and washed with a standard shampoo.
[0221] After drying, an attractive chestnut shade of hair is obtained with formula A and a Blonde shade of hair is obtained with formula B.
Example 2
[0222] The following compositions have been prepared in which the amounts are expressed in grams of active materials.
TABLE-US-00003 C (inv) C′ (comp) Ethanolamine 4 4 Sodium LAURYL ETHER SULFATE (2.2 EO) in an 2.5 2.5 aqueous solution (70%) HYDROXYETHYL CELLULOSE (PM: 1.300.000) 2.5 2.5 ANTI-OXYDANT 0.5 0.5 1-METHYL-2-HYDROXY-4-BETA- 0.5 0.5 HYDROXYETHYLAMINOBENZENE 1-METHYL-2-HYDROXY-4-AMINO-BENZENE 0.5 0.5 1,3-DIHYDROXYBENZENE (RESORCINOL) 0.2 0.2 2,3-DIAMINO-6,7-DIHYDRO-1H,5H-PYRAZOLO[1,2- 4.04 .Math. 10.sup.−3 mol 4.04 .Math. 10.sup.−3 mol A]PYRAZOL-1-ONE DIMETHANESULFONATE 3-(2,5-DIAMINOPHENYL)PROPAN-1-OL- 3.43 × 10.sup.−3 mol — HYDROCHLORIDE (2,5-diaminophenyl)ethanol — 3.43 × 10.sup.−3 mol SEQUESTRANT 2 2 Coco-betaine 3 ma 3 ma REDUCTEUR (Sodium meta bisulphite) 0.5 0.5 Mineral Oil 60 60 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 1 1 water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Oxyidizing composition Ox2 Hydrogen peroxide in an aqueous solution 50% 6 ETIDRONIC Acid, TETRA sodium salt in an aqueous 0.2 solution (30%) Tetra sodium PYROPHOSPHATE, 10 H.sub.2O 0.04 SODIUM Salycilate 0.035 DIMETHYL DIALLYL AMMONIUM CHLORIDE/ACRYLIC 0.74 ACID COPOLYMERE (80/20) IN AN AQUEOUS SOLUTION (Merquat 280) GLYCEROL 4 CAPRYLYL/CAPRYL GLUCOSIDE (ALKYL (C8/C10 50/50) 3 POLYGLUCOSIDE IN AN AQUEOUS SOLUTION (60%) WATER qsp 100
[0223] At the time of use, each composition C′ and C is mixed with the oxidizing composition O×2 at a weight ratio of 1/1.
[0224] The resulting mixture are each applied on natural locks with 90% of white hair (BN) and on permed hair locks with 90% of white hair (BP in an amount of 10 g of the resulting mixture per 1 g of hair, and left for 35 minutes at room temperature (25° C.).
[0225] Then the hair was rinsed with water, washed with the “Pro Classics concentrated” shampoo (L'Oréal Professionnel), diluted at 10%, and dried.
Selectivity Evaluation
[0226] The color of the hair was determined using the CIE L*a*b* system with a Minolta CM2006D spectrophotometer (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.
[0227] According to this system, L* indicates the lightness of the color of the hair.
[0228] The chromaticity coordinates are expressed by the parameters a* and b*, a* indicating the axis of red/green shades and b* the axis of yellow/blue shades.
[0229] The selectivity of the dyeing is measured by calculating the variation of ΔE according to the formula:
ΔE=√{square root over ((L*−L.sub.o*).sup.2+(a*−a.sub.o*).sup.2+(b*−b.sub.o*))}
[0230] In which L, a* and b* represent the values measured on permed hair and L0*, a0* and b0* represent the values measured on natural hair.
[0231] The selectivity is represented by the difference of color between the colored natural hair representative of the hair roots and permed hair representative of hair tips: the more is the ΔE value, the more the difference of color between natural and permed hair is important. A lesser selectivity is representative of an homogeneity of the coloration between the roots and the tips along the lock of hair.
[0232] The following results are obtained:
TABLE-US-00004 Hair type L* a* b* ΔE C + O2 (inv) BN 26.9 15.2 10.6 9.3 BP 20.9 10.6 5.0 C′ + O2 BN 29.6 18.4 13.7 12 (comp) BP 21.8 12.8 6.5
[0233] The resulting composition C+02 according to the invention exhibits a ΔE value lesser than the one obtained with the C′+02 comparative mixture. The hair coloration resulting from the use of C+02 provides on hair an improved homogeny coloration along the hair fibers.
Example 3
[0234] The following compositions have been prepared in which the amounts are expressed in grams of active materials.
TABLE-US-00005 B′ B″ invention comparative Sodium metabisulfite 0.45 0.45 Monoethanolamine 4 4 Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid 0.2 0.2 6-HYDROXY BENZOMORPHOLINE 0.04 0.04 1-BETA-HYDROXYETHYLOXY-2,4- 0.16 0.16 DIAMINOBENZENE 2 Hcl 2-METHYL-1,3-DIHYDROXYBENZENE (2-METHYL 0.17 0.17 RESORCINOL) Para aminophenol 0.13 0.13 1,3-DIHYDROXYBENZENE (RESORCINOL) 0.21 0.21 1-HYDROXY-3-AMINO-BENZENE 0.16 0.16 3-(2,5-DIAMINOPHENYL)PROPAN-1-OL HCl 4.18 × 10.sup.−3 mol — 2-(b-hydroxyethyl)para phenylenediamine — 4.18 × 10.sup.−3 mol MINERAL OIL 60 60 PERFUME 0.72 0.72 Cationic Hydroxyethylcellulose (Polyquaternium-67) 0.19 am* 0.19 am SOFTCAT SL-100 WATER qs qs Oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (2 OE) 1.13 1.13 Oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (20 OE) 3.88 3.88 (50/50 C.sub.8/C.sub.10) Alkyl (2)-polyglucoside as a 60% 2.4 am* 2.4 am* aqueous solution (Oramix CG 110 from SEPPIC) Oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 OE) 2.4 2.4 Vitamin C 0.25 0.25 *Active material
[0235] At the time of use, each composition B′ and B″ is mixed with the oxidizing composition C of example 1 at a weight ratio of 1/1.
[0236] The resulting mixture are each applied on natural hair locks (BN), which represents the hair root, and permed hair locks (BP), which represents the hair tips, in an amount of 10 g of composition per 1 g of hair, and left for 35 minutes at room temperature (25° C.).
[0237] Then the hair was rinsed with water, washed with the “Pro Classics concentrated” shampoo (L'Oréal Professionnel), diluted at 10%, and dried.
Selectivity Evaluation
[0238] The color of the hair was determined using the CIE L*a*b* system with a Minolta CM2006D spectrophotometer (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.
[0239] According to this system, L* indicates the lightness of the color of the hair.
[0240] The chromaticity coordinates are expressed by the parameters a* and b*, a* indicating the axis of red/green shades and b* the axis of yellow/blue shades.
[0241] The selectivity of the dyeing is measured by calculating the variation of ΔE according to the formula:
ΔE=√{square root over ((L*−L.sub.o*).sup.2+(a*−a.sub.o*).sup.2+(b*−b.sub.o*))}
[0242] In which L, a* and b* represent the values measured on natural hair and L0*, a0* and b0* represent the values measured on permed hair.
[0243] The selectivity is represented by the difference of color between the colored natural hair and permed hair: the more is the ΔE value, the more the difference of color between natural and permed hair is important, which is representative of the homogeneity of the coloration between the raw and the tips along the lock of hair.
[0244] The following results were obtained:
TABLE-US-00006 Hair type L* a* b* ΔE B′ + C BN 22.14 1.16 0.36 3.85 (invention) BP 18.39 0.54 −0.24 B″ + C BN 26.24 2.18 2.04 5.94 (comparative) BP 20.64 1.28 0.28
[0245] The mixtures B′+C according to the invention provide less selective colorations (lower ΔE value) than the mixture of compositions B″+C (comparative): the difference between the raw and the tips is lower with B′+C than with B″+C: the coloration along the lock of hair is more homogenous with B′+C.