SOLID ANHYDROUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION, PREPARATION PROCESS, COSMETIC TREATMENT PROCESSES AND ASSOCIATED KIT

Abstract

Solid anhydrous cosmetic composition, preparation process, cosmetic treatment processes and associated kit The present invention relates to a solid anhydrous cosmetic composition, in particle form, and comprising at least 30% by weight of anionic surfactants, at least 5% by weight of amphoteric surfactants, and at least 10% by weight of fillers. The invention also relates to a process for preparing this composition by granulation on a fluidized air bed and also to a process for the cosmetic treatment, in particular the care and/or the cleaning, of keratin materials, in particular the hair, comprising the application of said solid anhydrous cosmetic composition, alone or in combination with a hair conditioning composition. The invention also relates to a kit comprising said solid anhydrous cosmetic composition and said conditioning composition.

Claims

1. Solid anhydrous cosmetic composition in particle form, comprising: at least 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more anionic surfactants, at least 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more amphoteric surfactants, at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more fillers.

2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture, C.sub.6-C.sub.24, in particular C.sub.12-C.sub.20, alkyl sulfates; C.sub.6-C.sub.24 and in particular C.sub.12-C.sub.20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; C.sub.6-C.sub.24, in particular C.sub.12-C.sub.20, alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates; C.sub.6-C.sub.24, in particular C.sub.12-C.sub.20, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates; (C.sub.6-C.sub.24)acylisethionates, preferably (C.sub.12-C.sub.18)acylisethionates; C.sub.6-C.sub.24, in particular C.sub.12-C.sub.20, acylsarcosinates, in particular palmitoylsarcosinates; (C.sub.6-C.sub.24)alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably (C.sub.12-C.sub.20)alkyl ether carboxylates; polyoxyalkylenated (C.sub.6-C.sub.24)alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups; C.sub.6-C.sub.24, in particular C.sub.12-C.sub.20, acylglutamates; C.sub.6-C.sub.24, in particular C.sub.12-C.sub.20, acylglycinates; in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

3. Composition according to either of the preceding claims, in which said anionic surfactant(s) is (are) present in a total amount ranging from 30% to 90% by weight, better still from 35% to 75% by weight and better still from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from (C.sub.8-C.sub.20)alkylbetaines, (C.sub.8-C.sub.20)alkylamido(C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkylbetaines, (C.sub.8-C.sub.20)alkylamphoacetates and (C.sub.8-C.sub.20)alkylamphodiacetates, and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which said amphoteric surfactant(s) is (are) present in an amount ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, better still from 7% to 30% by weight and better still from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the fillers are chosen from: mineral fillers, and in particular from solid salts of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals, in particular sodium or calcium salts, in particular sodium or calcium halides such as sodium chloride and calcium chloride, or else carbonates, in particular sodium or calcium carbonates, for instance calcium carbonate and sodium bicarbonate; and silicates, such as, for example, clays; non-polymeric organic fillers, such as monosaccharides, for instance trehalose and sorbitol; polymeric organic fillers, such as polysaccharides, cyclodextrins, starches, alginates, gellans, guar gums, celluloses, wood flours, crosslinked polyvinylpyrrolidones, and polyacrylates.

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which said fillers are present in an amount ranging from 10% to 50% by weight, better still from 12% to 40% by weight and better still from 15% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, also comprising one or more polymers chosen from amphoteric or cationic polymers, and also mixtures thereof, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, also comprising one or more silicones, in particular one or more amino silicones, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the size of the particles is, in the largest dimension thereof, between 0.01 and 5 mm, preferably between 0.1 and 2.5 mm, and better still between 0.5 and 2 mm.

11. Process for preparing a solid anhydrous cosmetic composition as defined in one of the preceding claims, granulation on a fluidized air bed, in which: a liquid phase comprising at least one solvent is sprayed onto a solid phase comprising at least 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of said solid phase, of one or more surfactants chosen from anionic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

12. Solid anhydrous cosmetic composition in particle form, which can be obtained by means of the process according to claim 11.

13. Process for the cosmetic treatment, in particular the care and/or the cleaning, of keratin materials, in particular the hair, the scalp, bodily skin and/or facial skin, comprising the application, to said keratin materials, of a cosmetic composition according to one of claim 1 to 10 or 12, optionally followed by rinsing, after an optional leave-on time.

14. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular the hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials, sequentially or simultaneously: of a solid anhydrous cosmetic composition according to one of claim 1 to 10 or 12, and of a conditioning composition comprising one or more conditioning agents, in particular chosen from cationic surfactants; cationic and/or amphoteric polymers; silicones; liquid fatty substances, such as liquid fatty acids, which may be hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated, liquid fatty alcohols, mineral, vegetable or animal oils, liquid fatty esters and liquid hydrocarbons; solid fatty substances, and in particular solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty esters, ceramides and animal, vegetable or mineral waxes other than ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

15. Process according to claim 14, in which the conditioning composition comprises water at a concentration of at least 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 50% to 99% by weight, in particular from 60% to 98% by weight and better still from 70% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

16. Process according to either of claims 14 and 15, in which the conditioning composition comprises one or more conditioning agents chosen from cationic surfactants and cationic polymers; even better still from cationic surfactants.

17. Process according to one of claims 14 to 16, in which the conditioning composition comprises the conditioning agent(s) in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 20% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 15% by weight, or even from 1% to 12% by weight, relative to the weight of said composition.

18. Process according to one of claims 14 to 17, comprising (i) a step of mixing said solid anhydrous cosmetic composition and said conditioning composition so as to obtain a final cosmetic composition; (ii) then a step of applying said final cosmetic composition to said keratin materials.

19. Kit comprising: a solid anhydrous cosmetic composition according to one of claim 1 to 10 or 12, and a conditioning composition comprising one or more conditioning agents, in particular chosen from cationic surfactants, cationic and/or amphoteric polymers, silicones, liquid fatty substances, solid fatty substances, and mixtures thereof.

Description

EXAMPLE 1

[0719] A/ A composition for cleaning the hair is prepared in the following way:

Batch Process

[0720] A Procell fluidized air bed granulator apparatus (Glatt) with an Insert GF 3 type conical chamber, having a working volume of 2.5 litres to 10 litres, is used. The spray liquid is pumped into a reservoir and then sprayed into the chamber where the powder is placed in motion by said fluidized air bed. The air is filtered above the chamber, and the dust is regularly removed from the filters in order to recycle the fine particles.

[0721] A solid phase and a liquid phase having the following composition (in g) are prepared:

TABLE-US-00001 Amount (in g) of starting material in the solid and liquid phases before implementation of the % AM in the anhydrous process final composition after liquid passing through the powder sprayed granulator SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE 294.6 58.9 45 + 9 (total = 54%) (TEXAPON Z 95 P from Cognis) (100% AM) NaCl 40 — 6.1%   PQ10 (JR400) 32.7 — 5% Potato starch (SODIUM 32.7 — 5% CARBOXYMETHYL STARCH) at 94% AM in water, GLYCOLYS from the company Roquette COCO BETAINE at 30% AM in — 621.9 28.5%   water Total 400 g 680.8 g 61.1% + 37.5% (the remainder being residual water) Supplementary addition of — Qs to water achieve a pumpable and sprayable viscosity (less than 500 g)

[0722] The starting materials which go into making up the composition of the solid phase are premixed and then 400 g of the mixture are introduced into the spray chamber.

[0723] The starting materials which go into making up the composition of the liquid phase are premixed and then the preparation is introduced into a reservoir equipped with a peristaltic pump system for feeding the spray nozzle. The active material content of the liquid phase to be prepared is directly determined by the amount of powder introduced into the granulation chamber.

[0724] The viscosity of the preparation is adjusted by adding water so as to adapt to the maximum viscosities accepted by the pumping system. Since the solvent of the liquid phase is evaporated during the granulation, the initial dilution of the liquid phase has no impact on the final composition of the product. It is, however, carried out sparingly so as not to extend the time required by the process with an excessively large amount of liquid to be sprayed. The test ends after all of the liquid phase has been sprayed.

[0725] A solid anhydrous cosmetic composition, in the form of spherically shaped particles, which can be sieved in order to extract therefrom the particles of required size, for example ranging from 630 μm to 1 mm, is finally obtained. The residual water content does not exceed 5% by weight.

Continuous Process

[0726] The composition can also be obtained with a continuous mode of preparation in order to obtain larger amounts of product, for example with an apparatus of ProCell25 type (from the company Glatt).

[0727] The solid phase is then continuously introduced into the granulation chamber using a powder-metering device, while adjusting the flow rate relative to the liquid-phase spraying flow rate so as to guarantee the final composition.

[0728] The solid phase is gradually introduced into the granulation chamber, where it is placed in motion by the fluidized air bed. The airflow rate in the chamber is approximately 700 m.sup.3/h.

[0729] The liquid phase is sprayed by means of 4 nozzles placed at the bottom of the granulation chamber; the atomization pressure is approximately 2 bar; the product temperature is approximately 50° C. with an input temperature of approximately 80° C. and an output temperature of approximately 45° C.; the temperature in the fluidized air bed is adjusted to 40° C. The granules discharged from the granulation chamber pass through a double sieve system making it possible to keep only the target fraction (of size approximately 630 μm-1 mm). The granules which are not part of this target fraction pass through a mill where they are milled and are then recycled to the granulation chamber.

[0730] A solid anhydrous cosmetic composition, in the form of spherically shaped particles having a size ranging from 630 μm to 1 mm, is finally obtained. The residual water content does not exceed 5% by weight.

[0731] B/ Evaluation

[0732] The disintegration of the composition (obtained above, batch process) by friction is evaluated: 2 g of the composition prepared above are deposited on a pre-wetted malleable head, which is lightly rubbed in order to generate foam by massaging; the disintegration is evaluated after 10 friction operations. The disintegration is considered to be rapid if there are no longer any particles visible to the naked eye. In the present case, the disintegration is very rapid.

[0733] It is also noted that the anhydrous composition according to the invention makes it possible to generate an abundant creamy foam.

[0734] The composition is then rinsed off with water and any presence of residue after rinsing is evaluated. The composition according to the invention leaves no residue.

EXAMPLE 2

[0735] The anhydrous cosmetic compositions having the following final compositions were prepared in a manner similar to Example 1:

TABLE-US-00002 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Example 6 Example 7 Example 8 SODIUM LAURYL 54 (+0) 45 +9 45 (+0) 45 (+0) 45 (+0) 45 (+0) 45 (+0) SULFATE (100% AM)(TEXAPON Z 95 P) SODIUM LAURYL (0+) 9 ETHER SULFATE (70% AM in water) SODIUM COCOYL (0+) 9 ISETHIONATE (88.5% AM) (JORDAPON CI PWD) DISODIUM LAURYL (0+) 9 SULFOSUCCINATE at 96% AM in water (REWOPOL SB F 12 P) SODIUM LAURYL (0+) 9 SULFOACETATE (LATHANOL LAL POWDER) SODIUM LAUROYL (0+) 9 GLUTAMATE NaCl 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 PQ10 (JR400) 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 SODIUM 5.1 5.1 5.1 5.1 5.1 5.1 5.1 CARBOXYMETHYL STARCH - POTATO STARCH at 94% AM in water (GLYCOLYS) COCO BETAINE at 28.5 28.5 28.5 28.5 28.5 30% AM in water COCAMIDOPROPYL 28.5 28.5 BETAINE (TEGO BETAIN CK D) at 85% AM disintegration rapid rapid rapid rapid rapid rapid rapid foam firm, good firm, good firm, good firm, good firm, good firm, good firm, good staying staying staying staying staying staying staying power, creamy power, creamy power, creamy power, creamy power, creamy power, creamy power, creamy Example Example Example Example Example Example Example 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 SODIUM LAURYL 45 (+0) 45 + 9 45 + 9 45 + 9 45 + 9   45 + 9 45 + 9 SULFATE (100% AM)(TEXAPON Z 95 P) SODIUM LAURYL (0+) 9 SULFOACETATE (LATHANOL LAL POWDER) NaCl 6.1 6.1 6.1 PQ10 (JR400) 5 5 5 5 5 PQ6 at 40% AM in 2.4 2.4 water (MERQUAT 100) AMODIMETHICONE 5 at 57.5% AM (XIAMETER MEM- 8299 EMULSION) CETRIMONIUM (0+) 5 CHLORIDE at 75% AM in water SODIUM 5.1 5.1 5.1 CARBOXYMETHYL STARCH - POTATO STARCH at 94% AM in water (GLYCOLYS) Beta- 10.5 19.95 11.2 19.3 24.3 CYCLODEXTRIN at 86% AM in water MONTMORILLONITE 11.2 CLAY (ALUMINIUM SILICATE HYDRATE) COCO BETAINE at 28.5 18 8.55 28.5 18 + 28.5 18 18 30% AM in water disintegration rapid rapid rapid rapid rapid rapid rapid foam firm, good firm, good firm, good firm, good firm, good firm, good firm, good staying staying staying staying staying staying staying power, creamy power, creamy power, creamy power, creamy power, creamy power, creamy power, creamy

EXAMPLE 3

[0736] A/ A solid anhydrous cosmetic composition is prepared, using a Glatt ProCell granulator, comprising finally (% by weight of active material):

TABLE-US-00003 % active material SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE (TEXAPON Z 95 P) 54 PQ6 at 40% AM in water (MERQUAT 100) 2.5 AMODIMETHICONE at 57.5% AM (XIAMETER 5 MEM-8299 EMULSION) Beta-CYCLODEXTRIN at 86% AM in water 20 COCO BETAINE at 30% AM in water 18

[0737] B/ A liquid conditioning composition in emulsion form is prepared, comprising (% by weight of active material):

TABLE-US-00004 % active material CETYL ALCOHOL 4.5 MIXTURE OF MYRISTYL STEARATE 1 AND MYRISTYL PALMITATE MYRISTYL ALCOHOL 0.4 BEHENYLTRIMETHYLAMMONIUM CHLORIDE 0.42 CETYLTRIMETHYLAMMONIUM CHLORIDE IN 0.625 AQUEOUS SOLUTION PDMS 60 000 K 1 DYE, FRAGRANCE qs WATER qs 100%

[0738] 1.5 g of solid anhydrous composition are poured into 6 g of liquid conditioning composition. The mixture is applied to half the head of a volunteer. 6 g of liquid composition only are applied to the other half of the head.

[0739] The formation of a very creamy foam is observed on the side of the invention, making it possible to well coat the hair with the product. There is no foam on the side of the reference formula.

[0740] The wet hair is straight and disentangles well on both sides. The dry hair is soft and light.