DYE COMPOSITION COMPRISING A PARA-PHENYLENEDIAMINE OXIDATION BASE, A NONIONIC SURFACTANT IN A MEDIUM RICH IN FATTY SUBSTANCES
20170340536 · 2017-11-30
Inventors
Cpc classification
A61K8/342
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/604
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/39
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
A61K8/39
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
The present invention relates to a composition for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising: a) at least one oxidation base 3-(2,5-diaminophenyl)-1-propanol and/or acid salts thereof or solvates thereof such as hydrates; b) at least one coupler; c) at least 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition of a fatty substance which is preferably liquid and non-silicone-based; d) at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants, esters of oxyalkylenated sorbitan and fatty acids and oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols; e) optionally at least one basifying agent; and f) optionally at least one chemical oxidizing agent. The invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres such as the hair using the composition of the invention, and to a multi-compartment device for using the composition of the invention.
Claims
1. Composition comprising: a) at least one oxidation base 3-(2,5-diaminophenyl)-1-propanol and/or acid salts thereof and/or solvates thereof such as hydrates; b) at least one coupler; c) at least 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition of a fatty substance; d) at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants, esters of oxyalkylenated sorbitan and fatty acids and oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols; e) optionally at least one basifying agent; and f) optionally at least one chemical oxidizing agent.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the fatty substance(s) are chosen from C.sub.6-C.sub.16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, plant oils of triglyceride type, synthetic triglycerides, fluoro oils, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols other than triglycerides and plant waxes, non-silicone waxes and silicones.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance(s) are liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, and are preferably non-silicone-based.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substances are chosen from C.sub.6-C.sub.16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, triglycerides, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, or mixtures thereof, and preferably from liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the concentration of fatty substances ranges from 15% to 80% by weight, preferably from 25% to 75% by weight, in particular from 30% to 70% by weight and advantageously from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the nonionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkylpolyglycosides, preferably from the alkylpolyglycosides corresponding to formula (Ia) below:
R.sub.1O—(R.sub.2O).sub.r-(G).sub.v in which: R.sub.1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms; R.sub.2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4, v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4.
7. Composition according to claim 6, in which the surfactant of formula (I) is such that: R.sub.1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, R.sub.2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0, G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose; the degree of polymerization, v, may range from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; more particularly being between 1 and 2.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the nonionic surfactant(s) are chosen from fatty acid esters of oxyalkylenated sorbitan.
9. Composition according to claim 8, in which the fatty acid ester of oxyalkylenated sorbitan is chosen from an ester of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan and of a C8-C14 saturated fatty acid, preferably an ester of a C8 to C14 fatty acid and of oxyethylenated sorbitan comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the nonionic surfactant(s) are chosen from oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols, preferably from the oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols corresponding to formula (IIa) below: ##STR00004## in which: R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical comprising from 6 to 40, in particular from 8 to 30 and preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and Z represents an oxyethylenated radical, and m represents the number of ethylene oxide units ranging from 1 to 50, preferably 2 to 40 and better still 2 to 30.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the nonionic surfactant(s) are chosen from C16-C18 polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols comprising from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the nonionic surfactant(s) are present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30%, preferably from 0.5% to 20% and better still from 2% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oxidation base(s) chosen from 3-(2,5-diaminophenyl)-1-propanol, the acid salts thereof or the solvates thereof such as hydrates, are in an amount ranging from 0.0001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight and in particular from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the coupler is chosen from meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based couplers and heterocyclic couplers, and the addition salts thereof.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which comprises at least one basifying agent chosen from ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, organic amines chosen from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and the compounds of formula (II), or mixtures thereof: ##STR00005## in which formula (II) W is a divalent C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkylene radical optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups or a C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl radical, and/or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms such as O, or NR.sub.u; R.sub.x, R.sub.y, R.sub.z, R.sub.t and R.sub.u, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl, C.sub.1-C.sub.6 hydroxyalkyl or C.sub.1-C.sub.6 aminoalkyl radical.
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the basifying agent is chosen from ammonia or alkanolamines, preferably monoethanolamine, and neutral or ionic amino acids.
17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which comprises a chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
18. Process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular the hair, comprising the application to the keratin fibres of the composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims.
19. Process according to the preceding claim, in which the composition as described according to any one of claims 1 to 13 is obtained by mixing at least two compositions, a first composition (A) which comprises the oxidation base 3-(2,5-diaminophenyl)-1-propanol and/or one of acid salts or solvates and a second composition (B) which comprises at least one chemical oxidizing agent, it being understood that: at least one of the compositions (A) or (B) comprises the fatty substance(s) and the nonionic surfactant as defined previously such that the fatty substance content of the composition resulting from the mixing of compositions (A) and (B) is at least 10%, preferably greater than 25%, preferably greater than 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition derived from the mixing of (A) and (B).
20. Process according to claim 15, in which the composition applied to the fibres is obtained from composition (A), from composition (B) and from a third composition at least partly comprising the fatty substance(s), this third composition preferably being anhydrous.
21. Multi-compartment device comprising a first compartment containing composition (A) which comprises the oxidation base 3-(2,5-diaminophenyl)-1-propanol and/or one of acid salts or solvates and a second compartment containing composition (B) which comprises at least one chemical oxidizing agent, it being understood that at least one of the compositions (A) or (B) comprises the fatty substance(s) and the nonionic surfactant as defined previously such that the fatty substance content of the composition resulting from the mixing of compositions (A) and (B) is at least 10%, preferably greater than 25%, preferably greater than 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition derived from the mixing of (A) and (B).
Description
EXAMPLES
Example 1
[0186] The following compositions are prepared in which the amounts are expressed in grams of active materials.
[0187] Dye compositions (g%)
TABLE-US-00001 Ingredients A B Sodium metabisulfite in powder form 0.45 0.45 Pure monoethanolamine 4.57 4.65 Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid 0.2 0.2 6-Hydroxybenzomorpholine — 0.04 1-β-Hydroxyethyloxy-2,4-diaminobenzene — 0.16 dihydrochloride 2-Methyl-1,3-dihydroxybenzene (2- 0.17 — methylresorcinol) N,N-Bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine — 0.13 sulfate monohydrate 1,3-Dihydroxybenzene (resorcinol) 0.2 1 1-Hydroxy-3-aminobenzene 0.025 0.16 3-(2,5-Diaminophenyl)propan-1-ol hydrochloride 0.75 2.83 Mineral oil (INCI name) 60 60 Perfume 0.72 0.72 Cationic hydroxyethylcellulose (Polyquaternium- 0.19 0.19 67) marketed under the name Softcat Polymer SL-100 by Dow Chemical water Qs 100 Qs 100 Oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (2 OE) 1.13 1.13 Oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (20 OE) 3.88 3.88 Caprylyl/capryl glucoside (alkyl (C8/C10 50/50) 2.4 2.4 polyglucoside (2) in 60% buffered aqueous solution) Oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 OE) 2.4 2.4 Vitamin C: ascorbic acid 0.25 0.25
[0188] Oxidizing composition C (g% of active material)
TABLE-US-00002 Ingredients C Pentasodium pentetate 0.06 Hydrogen peroxide 6 Sodium stannate 0.04 Phosphoric acid qs pH = 2.2 Tetrasodium pyrophosphate 0.03 Mineral oil 20 Hexadimethrine chloride 0.15 Polyquaternium-6 0.2 Water qs 100 Glycerol 0.5 Cetearyl alcohol 6 Steareth-20 5 PEG-4 Rapeseedamide 1.2 Tocopherol 0.1
[0189] At the time of use, each of the compositions A and B is mixed with one time its own weight of oxidizing composition C.
[0190] The mixtures thus obtained are applied to natural hair containing 90% white hairs.
[0191] After a leave-on time of 35 minutes at room temperature, the hair is rinsed and washed with a standard shampoo, then dried. An attractive Blonde shade is obtained with formula A and a Chestnut shade is obtained with formula B.
Example 2
[0192] The following compositions have been prepared in which the amounts are expressed in grams of active materials.
TABLE-US-00003 B′ B″ inven- compar- tion ative Sodium metabisulfite 0.45 0.45 Monoethanolamine 4 4 Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid 0.2 0.2 6-HYDROXY BENZOMORPHOLINE 0.04 0.04 1-BETA-HYDROXYETHYLOXY-2,4- 0.16 0.16 DIAMINOBENZENE 2 Hcl 2-METHYL-1,3-DIHYDROXYBENZENE 0.17 0.17 (2-METHYL RESORCINOL) Para aminophenol 0.13 0.13 1,3-DIHYDROXYBENZENE (RESORCINOL) 0.21 0.21 1-HYDROXY-3-AMINO-BENZENE 0.16 0.16 3-(2,5-DIAMINOPHENYL)PROPAN-1-OL HCl 4.18 × — 10.sup.−3 mol 2-b hydroxyethyl para phenylenediamine — 4.18 × 10.sup.−3 mol MINERAL OIL 60 60 PERFUME 0.72 0.72 Cationic Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.19 am* 0.19 am (Polyquaternium-67) SOFTCAT SL-100 WATER qs qs Oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (2 OE) 1.13 1.13 Oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (20 OE) 3.88 3.88 (50/50 C.sub.8/C.sub.10) Alkyl (2)-polyglucoside as a 60% 2.4 am 2.4 am aqueous solution (Oramix CG 110 from SEPPIC) Oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 OE) 2.4 2.4 Vitamin C 0.25 0.25 *Active material
[0193] At the time of use, each composition B′ and B″ is mixed with the oxidizing composition C of example 1 at a weight ratio of 1/1.
[0194] The resulting mixture are each applied on natural hair locks (BN), which represents the hair root, and permed hair locks (BP), which represents the hair tips, in an amount of 10 g of composition per 1 g of hair, and left for 35 minutes at room temperature (25° C.).
[0195] Then the hair was rinsed with water, washed with the “Pro Classics concentrated” shampoo (L'Oreal Professionnel), diluted at 10%, and dried.
[0196] Selectivity Evaluation
[0197] The color of the hair was determined using the CIE L*a*b* system with a Minolta CM2006D spectrophotometer (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.
[0198] According to this system, L* indicates the lightness of the color of the hair. The chromaticity coordinates are expressed by the parameters a* and b*, a* indicating the axis of red/green shades and b* the axis of yellow / blue shades.
[0199] The selectivity of the dyeing is measured by calculating the variation of ΔE according to the formula:
ΔE=√{square root over ((L* −L.sub.o*).sup.2+(a*−a.sub.o*).sup.2+(b*−b.sub.o *).sup.2)}
[0200] In which L, a* and b* represent the values measured on natural hair and L0*, a0* and b0* represent the values measured on permed hair.
[0201] The selectivity is represented by the difference of color between the colored natural hair and permed hair : the more is the ΔE value, the more the difference of color between natural and permed hair is important, which is representative of the homogeneity of the coloration between the roots and the tips along the lock of hair.
[0202] The following results are obtained:
TABLE-US-00004 Hair type L* a* b* ΔE B′ + C BN 22.14 1.16 0.36 3.85 (invention) BP 18.39 0.54 −0.24 B″ + C BN 26.24 2.18 2.04 5.94 (comparative) BP 20.64 1.28 0.28
[0203] The mixtures B′+C according to the invention provide less selective colorations (lower ΔE value) than the mixture of compositions B″+C (comparative) : the difference between the raw and the tips is lower with B′+C than with B″+C: the coloration along the lock of hair is more homogenous with B′+C.