COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING LINEAR OLEFIN SULFONATES, NON-OXYALKYLATED ANIONIC SURFACTANTS, AND NON-IONIC AND/OR AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANTS, AND COSMETIC TREATMENT METHOD
20170340540 · 2017-11-30
Inventors
- Marie-Florence DARRAS (Saint Ouen, FR)
- Lydia DUSSAULT (Saint Ouen, FR)
- Estelle Mathonneau (Paris, FR)
- Gregory Plos (Paris, FR)
Cpc classification
A61K8/44
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
A61K8/44
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
The invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: one or more linear α-olefin sulfonates, one or more non-oxyalkylenated anionic surfactants present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight; and one or more additional surfactants chosen from amphoteric surfactants and nonionic surfactants.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process using said composition, especially a process for caring for and/or cleansing keratin materials.
Claims
1. A cosmetic composition comprising: (i) one or more linear α-olefin sulfonates, (ii) one or more non-oxyalkylenated anionic surfactants other than the compounds (i), present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (iii) one or more additional surfactants chosen from amphoteric surfactants and nonionic surfactants.
2. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the linear α-olefin sulfonates comprise linear alkene sulfonates, especially of formula (A):
R—CH.sub.2—CH═CH—(CH.sub.2)n—SO.sub.3M in which: R is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms; n is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 1 and 4 and better still n=1; M is a cosmetically acceptable cation, chosen especially from the ammonium cation, cations derived from alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals, cations derived from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those derived from alkali metals; and especially Na+ or K+.
3. The composition as claimed in the preceding claim, in which the linear alkene sulfonates are of formula: ##STR00016## in which: R is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, especially from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 14 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 12 carbon atoms; M is a cosmetically acceptable cation, chosen especially from the ammonium cation, cations derived from alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals, cations derived from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those derived from alkali metals or alkali metals; and better still Na+ or K+.
4. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, in which the linear α-olefin sulfonates comprise linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates, especially of formula (B):
R′—CH.sub.2—CH(OH)—CH.sub.2—(CH.sub.2)n′-SO.sub.3M′ (B) in which: R′ is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 14 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 14 carbon atoms, especially from 10 to 12 carbon atoms; n′ is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 1 and 4 and better still n′=1; M′ is a cosmetically acceptable cation, chosen especially from the ammonium cation, cations derived from alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals, cations derived from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those derived from alkali metals; and especially Na+ or K+.
5. The composition as claimed in the preceding claim, in which the linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates are of formula: ##STR00017## in which: R′ is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, especially from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 14 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 12 carbon atoms; M′ is a cosmetically acceptable cation, chosen especially from the ammonium cation, cations derived from alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals, cations derived from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those derived from alkali metals or alkali metals; and especially Na+ or K+.
6. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, in which the linear α-olefin sulfonates are chosen from linear α-olefin sulfonates comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, especially from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 18 carbon atoms; in particular of alkali metals, especially of sodium.
7. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising said linear α-olefin sulfonates in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, especially from 4% to 18% by weight and preferably from 6% to 16% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
8. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more non-oxyalkylenated anionic surfactants, other than the compounds (i), chosen from: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates, alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group.
9. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, in which the non-oxyalkylenated anionic surfactants other than the compounds (i) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: acylglutamates, especially of C.sub.6-C.sub.24 or even C.sub.12-C.sub.20, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate; acylsarcosinates, especially of C.sub.6-C.sub.24 or even C.sub.12-C.sub.20, such as palmitoylsarcosinates and lauroylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate or sodium lauroylsarcosinate; acyllactylates, especially of C.sub.12-C.sub.28 or even C.sub.14-C.sub.24, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate; C.sub.6-C.sub.24 and especially C.sub.12-C.sub.20 acylglycinates; C.sub.6-C.sub.24 and especially C.sub.12-C.sub.20 N-acyltaurates; C.sub.6-C.sub.24 and especially C.sub.12-C.sub.20 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially laurylsulfosuccinates, in particular of sodium; (C.sub.6-C.sub.24)acylisethionates, preferably (C.sub.12-C.sub.18)acylisethionates, and most particularly cocoylisethionates, especially of sodium; C.sub.6-C.sub.24 and especially C.sub.12-C.sub.20 alkylsulfoacetates; in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
10. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising said non-oxyalkylenated anionic surfactants other than the compounds (i) in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, especially from 1.5% to 15% by weight, better still from 2% to 10% by weight and better still from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more additional surfactants chosen from nonionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants; and especially from: alcohols, α-diols and (C.sub.1-20)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30; and/or these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from 16 to 30 carbon atoms; condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty acid alkanolamides, such as C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty acid monoalkanolamides, in particular C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty acid monoethanolamides or monoisopropanolamides; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyoxyalkylenated and preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated plant oils, N—(C.sub.6-24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C.sub.10-14 alkyl)amine oxides or N—(C.sub.10-14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides; nonionic surfactants of alkylpolyglycoside type, represented especially by the following general formula: R.sub.1O—(R.sub.2O).sub.t-(G).sub.v in which: R.sub.1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms; R.sub.2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4, v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4; (C.sub.8-C.sub.20)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C.sub.8-C.sub.20)alkylsulfobetaines, (C.sub.8-C.sub.20)alkyl-amido(C.sub.1-C.sub.6)alkylbetaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, (C.sub.8-C.sub.20)alkylamido-(C.sub.1-C.sub.6)alkylsulfobetaines, and also mixtures thereof; optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives having the below respective structures (A1) and (A2):
R.sub.a—CON(Z)CH.sub.2—(CH.sub.2).sub.m—N.sup.+(R.sub.b)(R.sub.c)(CH.sub.2COO.sup.−) (A1) in which: R.sub.a represents a C.sub.10-C.sub.30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R.sub.a—COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group, R.sub.b represents a β-hydroxyethyl group, R.sub.c represents a carboxymethyl group; m is equal to 0, 1 or 2, Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group,
R.sub.a—CON(Z)CH.sub.2—(CH.sub.2).sub.m′-N(B)(B′) (A2) in which: B represents —CH.sub.2CH.sub.2OX′, with X′ representing —CH.sub.2—COOH, CH.sub.2—COOZ′, —CH.sub.2CH.sub.2—COOH, —CH.sub.2CH.sub.2—COOZ′, or a hydrogen atom, B′ represents —(CH.sub.2).sub.z—Y′, with z=1 or 2, and Y′ representing —COOH, —COOZ′, —CH.sub.2—CHOH—SO.sub.3H or —CH.sub.2—CHOH—SO.sub.3Z′, m′ is equal to 0, 1 or 2, Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group, Z′ represents an ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine and especially from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane. R.sub.a′ represents a C.sub.10-C.sub.30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R.sub.a′COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed linseed oil or coconut oil, an alkyl group, especially a C.sub.17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C.sub.17 group. compounds of formula (A3):
R.sub.a″—NH—CH(Y″)—(CH.sub.2)n-C(O)—NH—(CH.sub.2)n′—N(R.sub.d)(R.sub.e) (A3) in which: R.sub.a″ represents a C.sub.10-C.sub.30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R.sub.a″—C(O)OH, which is preferably present in hydrolyzed linseed oil or coconut oil; Y″ represents the group —C(O)OH, —C(O)OZ″, —CH.sub.2—CH(OH)—SO.sub.3H or the group —CH.sub.2—CH(OH)—SO.sub.3—Z″, with Z″ representing a cation resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine; R.sub.d and R.sub.e, independently of each other, represent a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; and n and n′, independently of each other, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
12. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant; said nonionic surfactant preferably being chosen from (C.sub.6-24 alkyl)polyglycosides, and more particularly (C.sub.8-18 alkyl)polyglycosides, ethoxylated C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan, polyethoxylated C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty alcohols and polyoxyethylenated C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty acid esters, these compounds preferably containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty acid alkanolamides such as C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty acid monoalkanolamides, in particular C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty acid monoethanolamides or monoisopropanolamides, and mixtures thereof; and better still said nonionic surfactant being chosen from C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty acid alkanolamides, such as C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty acid monoalkanolamides, in particular C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty acid monoethanolamides or monoisopropanolamides; and/or said amphoteric surfactant preferably being chosen from (C.sub.8-C.sub.20)alkylbetaines, (C.sub.8-C.sub.20)alkylamido(C.sub.1-C.sub.6)alkylbetaines, (C.sub.8-C.sub.20)alkylamphoacetates and (C.sub.8-C.sub.20)alkylamphodiacetates, and mixtures thereof.
13. The composition as claimed in claim 11 or 12, comprising said additional nonionic and/or amphoteric surfactant(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, especially from 1% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 1.5% to 12% by weight or even from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more polymers chosen from amphoteric or cationic polymers, and also mixtures thereof, preferably in an amount of between 0.01% and 5% by weight, especially ranging from 0.05% to 3% by weight and preferentially from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more silicones, which are preferably liquid, volatile or nonvolatile; preferably in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
16. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising water in a concentration preferably ranging from 30% to 98% by weight, especially from 50% to 95% by weight and better still from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
17. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more thickeners, which are preferably nonionic; preferably chosen from optionally oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols, fatty amides, oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, and acrylic thickening polymers, and also mixtures thereof.
18. A cosmetic treatment process, especially for caring for and/or cleansing keratin materials, especially the hair, the scalp, bodily skin and/or facial skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, optionally followed by rinsing, after an optional leave-on time.
19. A cosmetic process for cleansing soiling residues from human keratin materials, in which a cosmetic composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 17 is applied to said keratin materials in the presence of water, it is massaged to form a foam, and the foam formed and the soiling residues are then removed by rinsing with water.
Description
EXAMPLES
[0297] The below hair compositions of shampoo type (% by weight of active material AM) are prepared:
TABLE-US-00001 Example Example Example 1 2 3 Sodium C.sub.14-16 olefin sulfonate 12 5 15 (Bioterge AS-40A from Stepan) Disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate 6 — — Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate — 10 3 Cocamidopropyl betaine 2 2 2 Cocamide MEA 0.5 2 1 Polyquaternium-10 0.5 0.5 0.5 PDMS 60 000 1.75 1.75 1.75 Carbomer 0.15 0.15 0.15 NaCl 1.25 0.6 0.85 pH agent (citric acid, NaOH) qs pH 5.3 qs pH 5.3 qs pH 5.3 Water qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% Viscosity (mPa .Math. s) 7065 3360 6100 Example Example Example 4 5 6 Sodium C.sub.14-16 olefin sulfonate 15 12 14 (Bioterge AS-40A from Stepan) Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate 3 2.4 2 Cocamidopropyl betaine — 2 2 Cocobetaine 2 — — Cocamide MEA 1 1 2 Polyquaternium-10 0.5 0.5 0.5 PDMS 60 000 1.75 1.75 1.75 Carbomer 0.15 0.15 0.15 NaCl 0.5 1.25 0.4 pH agent (citric acid, NaOH) qs pH 5.3 qs pH 5.3 qs pH 5.3 Water qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% Viscosity (mPa .Math. s) 7000 7750 6300 Example Example Example 7 8 9 Sodium C.sub.14-16 olefin sulfonate 9 8 8 (Bioterge AS-40A from Stepan) Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate 4.5 4 4 Cocamidopropyl betaine 2 2 2 Cocamide MEA 1.5 2 1 Polyquaternium-10 0.5 0.5 0.5 PDMS 60 000 1.75 1.75 1.75 Carbomer 0.15 0.15 0.15 NaCl 1 0.4 1.2 pH agent (citric acid, NaOH) qs pH 5.3 qs pH 5.3 qs pH 5.3 Water qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% Viscosity (mPa .Math. s) 6500 7600 6150 Example Example Example 10 11 12 Sodium C.sub.14-16 olefin sulfonate 8 7 6 (Bioterge AS-40A from Stepan) Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate 4 3.5 3 Cocamidopropyl betaine 2 2 2 Cocamide MEA 1.5 1.5 1.5 Polyquaternium-10 0.5 0.5 0.5 PDMS 60 000 1.75 1.75 1.75 Carbomer 0.15 0.15 0.15 NaCl 0.75 0.55 0.5 pH agent (citric acid, NaOH) qs pH 5.3 qs pH 5.3 qs pH 5.3 Water qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% Viscosity (mPa .Math. s) 6700 6200 6800 Example Example 13 14 Sodium C.sub.14-16 olefin sulfonate 10 7.5 (Bioterge AS-40A from Stepan) Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate 5 7.5 Cocamidopropyl betaine 2 2 Cocamide MEA 2 2 Polyquaternium-10 0.5 0.5 PDMS 60 000 1.75 1.75 Carbomer 0.15 0.15 NaCl 0.6 0.5 pH agent (citric acid, NaOH) qs pH 5.3 qs pH 5.3 Water qs 100% qs 100% Viscosity (mPa .Math. s) 5700 5270
[0298] Stable detergent compositions are obtained, which exhibit good thickening, with a viscosity of at least 4 Pa.Math.s, and a foaming effect, which may be used for cleansing the hair and lead to the production of good cosmetic properties for the hair.
[0299] The compositions exhibit good starting of foaming and generate an abundant foam of good quality: the foam in particular has a creamy texture and spreads easily over the whole head of hair.
[0300] Examples 4 and 7 were tested by a sensory panel of 10 trained consumers and compared with a sulfate-free commercial shampoo formulation.
[0301] The two examples according to the invention exhibit starting of foaming and foam abundance, firmness and persistence equivalent to those of the commercial product, even though these compositions according to the invention comprise much less anionic surfactant (between 10% and 30% less).