HAIR DYEING PROCESS USING AT LEAST ONE DYE, A TITANIUM SALT AND AN ANIONIC THICKENING POLYMER

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, in which said fibres are treated using one or more cosmetic compositions comprising a) one or more dye(s), b) one or more titanium salts and b1) optionally at least one carboxylic acid, and c) one or more anionic thickening polymers derived from the polymerization of at least one monomer bearing an organic monoacid function, and d) optionally one or more chemical oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide or one or more hydrogen peroxide-generating systems.

Claims

1.-25. (canceled)

26. A method for dyeing keratin fibers, comprising applying to the fibers a composition comprising: a) at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes and direct dyes, of synthetic or natural origin; b) at least one titanium salt; b1) optionally, at least one carboxylic acid according to formula (I) below: ##STR00022## wherein: A is chosen from a monovalent group when n is 0 or a polyvalent group when n is greater than or equal to 1; or a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic and aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 50 carbon atoms which is optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom and/or optionally substituted; and n is an integer ranging from 0 to 10; and c) optionally, at least one anionic thickening polymer derived from the polymerization of at least one monomer bearing an organic monoacid function.

27. The method according to claim 26, wherein the at least one dye is an ortho-diphenol comprising an aromatic ring, wherein the aromatic ring is chosen from benzene, naphthalene, tetrahydronaphthalene, indane, indene, anthracene, phenanthrene, isoindole, indoline, isoindoline, benzofuran, dihydrobenzofuran, chroman, isochroman, chromene, isochromene, quinoline, tetrahydroquinoline, or isoquinoline, wherein the aromatic ring comprises at least two hydroxyl groups borne by two contiguous adjacent atoms of the aromatic ring.

28. The method according to claim 26, wherein the at least one dye is an ortho-diphenol according to formula (II) below, oligomers, tautomers, optical isomers, geometrical isomers thereof, salts, solvates, or hydrates thereof: ##STR00023## wherein: R.sup.1 to R.sup.4, which may be identical or different, are chosen from: i) hydrogen, ii) halogen atoms, iii) hydroxyl groups, iv) carboxyl groups, v) (C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkyl carboxylate or (C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkoxycarbonyl groups, vi) optionally substituted amino groups, vii) optionally substituted linear or branched (C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkyl groups, viii) optionally substituted linear or branched (C.sub.2-C.sub.20)alkenyl groups, ix) optionally substituted cycloalkyl groups, x) (C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkoxy groups, xi) (C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkoxy(C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkyl groups, xii) (C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkoxyaryl groups, xiii) aryl groups which may optionally be substituted, xiv) aryl groups, xv) substituted aryl groups, xvi) heterocyclic groups which are saturated or unsaturated, optionally bearing a cationic or anionic charge and which are optionally substituted and/or optionally fused with an aromatic ring, the aromatic ring optionally substituted, or xvii) radical groups containing at least one silicon atom; or, optionally: two of the substituents borne by two adjacent carbon atoms R.sup.1-R.sup.2, R.sup.2-R.sup.3, R.sup.3-R.sup.4 or R3-R4 optionally form, together with the carbon atoms bearing them, a saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic ring optionally containing at least one heteroatom and optionally fused with at least one saturated or unsaturated ring optionally containing at least one heteroatom; R.sup.1 to R.sup.4 together form from one to four rings; or R.sup.2 and R.sup.3 form a pyrrolyl or pyrrolidinyl radical fused to the benzene ring bearing the two hydroxyls.

29. The method according to claim 26, wherein the at least one dye is an ortho-diphenol chosen from: flavanols; anthocyanidins; anthocyanins or anthocyans; ortho-hydroxybenzoates; flavones; hydroxystilbenes; 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine or derivatives thereof; 2,3-dihydroxyphenylalanine or derivatives thereof; 4,5-dihydroxyphenylalanine or derivatives thereof; dihydroxycinnamates; ortho-polyhydroxycoumarins; ortho-polyhydroxyisocoumarins; ortho-polyhydroxycoumarones; ortho-polyhydroxyisocoumarones; ortho-polyhydroxychalcones; ortho-polyhydroxychromones; quinones; hydroxyxanthones; 1,2-dihydroxybenzene or derivatives thereof; 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene or derivatives thereof; 1,2,3-trihydroxybenzene or derivatives thereof; 2,4,5-trihydroxytoluene or derivatives thereof; proanthocyanidin; chromans or chromenes; proanthocyanins; tannic acid; ellagic acid; or mixtures thereof.

30. The method according to claim 26, wherein the at least one dye is an ortho-diphenol chosen from extracts of animals, bacteria, fungi, algae, plants, or fruit.

31. The method according to claim 26, wherein the composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid is chosen from compounds according to formula (I) wherein A is chosen from monovalent (C.sub.1-C.sub.6)alkyl groups or polyvalent (C.sub.1-C.sub.6)alkylene groups optionally substituted with at least one hydroxyl group, and n is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.

32. The method according to claim 26, wherein the composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

33. The method according to claim 26, wherein the at least one titanium salt is chosen from organic or mineral titanium salts.

34. The method according to claim 33, wherein the organic titanium salts are derived from the reaction of at least one organic acid with titanium, wherein the at least one organic acid is chosen from organic acids comprising: a) at least one optionally unsaturated, linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.20 hydrocarbon-based chain, or a (hetero)cycloalkyl or (hetero)aryl group; and b) at least one acid chemical function chosen in particular from carboxyl COOH, sulfuric SO.sub.3H, SO.sub.2H, or phosphoric PO.sub.3H.sub.2, PO.sub.4H.sub.2.

35. The method according to claim 33, wherein the composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid represented by formula (I), and wherein the at least one carboxylic acid is different from the organic acid that the organic titanium salt is derived from.

36. The method according to claim 33, wherein the organic titanium salt is chosen from those compounds according to formula (I-A) below: ##STR00024## wherein: A is chosen from a monovalent group when n is 0 or a polyvalent group when n is greater than or equal to 1; or a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic and aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 50 carbon atoms which is optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom and/or optionally substituted; n, n′, and n″, which may be identical or different, are integers chosen from 1, 2, 3, or 4, wherein n′+n″=6; M.sub.1 and M.sub.2, which may be identical or different, represent a cationic counterion; and TiYn″ is chosen from Ti(OH).sub.n″, Ti(O).sub.n″/2, or Ti(OH).sub.m1(O).sub.m2 with m.sub.1+m.sub.2=n″.

37. The method according to claim 33, wherein the organic titanium salt is chosen from dihydroxybis(lactato)titanium(IV) salts according to the formula below: ##STR00025##

38. The method according to claim 26, wherein the at least one anionic thickening polymer is chosen from anionic polymers derived from the polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer bearing a monocarboxylic acid function and/or of at least one monomer bearing a monosulfonic acid function.

39. The method according to claim 26, wherein the at least one anionic thickening polymer is chosen from non-associative anionic thickening polymers, crosslinked acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and the crosslinked acrylamide copolymers thereof, ammonium acrylate homopolymers or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide, or mixtures thereof.

40. The method according to claim 26, wherein the at least one anionic thickening polymer is chosen from crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.

41. The method according to claim 26, wherein the at least one anionic thickening polymer is chosen from: polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit consisting of a vinyl monocarboxylic acid and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit; polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic monocarboxylic acid type and at least one hydrophobic unit of (C.sub.10-C.sub.30)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type; acrylic terpolymers, copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated monocarboxylic acid and an ester of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol; amphiphilic copolymers comprising at least one 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS®) unit and at least one monomer bearing a hydrophobic group; or mixtures thereof.

42. The method according to claim 26, wherein the at least one anionic thickening polymer is chosen from amphiphilic copolymers comprising at least one AMPS® unit and at least one monomer bearing a hydrophobic group chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides according to formula (2) below: ##STR00026## wherein: R.sub.1 is chosen from hydrogen or a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl radical; Y is chosen from O or NH; R.sub.2 is chosen from a hydrocarbon-based radical comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms; and x is an integer ranging from 0 to 100.

43. The method according to claim 42, wherein the monomer bearing a hydrophobic group is chosen from lauryl methacrylate, tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate and ethoxylated (25 EO) stearyl methacrylate, or mixtures thereof.

44. The method according to claim 26, wherein the composition comprises the at least one anionic thickening polymer present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

45. The method according to claim 26, further comprising applying at least one chemical oxidizing agent to the hair, said chemical oxidizing agent chosen from hydrogen peroxide or at least one hydrogen peroxide-generating system.

46. The method according to claim 26, further comprising applying at least one basifying agent to the hair, said basifying agent chosen from i) (bi)carbonates, ii) aqueous ammonia, iii) alkanolamines or derivatives thereof, iv) oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, v) mineral or organic hydroxides, vi) alkali metal silicates, vii) amino acids, or viii) the compounds according to formula (XI) below: ##STR00027## wherein: W is chosen from a divalent (C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkylene radical optionally substituted with at least one hydroxyl group, or at least one (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl radical optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom, oxygen, sulfur, or an —N(R.sub.e)— group; and R.sub.a, R.sub.b, R.sub.e, R.sub.d, and R.sub.e, which are identical or different, are chosen from a hydrogen atom, a (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl or hydroxy(C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl radical, or mixtures thereof.

47. The method according to claim 26, wherein the composition has a pH of less than 7.

48. The method according to claim 26, wherein the composition comprises: a) at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes or direct dyes, of synthetic or natural origin; b) at least one titanium salt; c) at least one anionic thickening polymer; and at least one solvent; wherein the pH of the composition is less than 7.

49. The method according to claim 26, comprising: applying to the keratin fibers a dyeing composition comprising a) at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes or direct dyes, of synthetic or natural origin; b) at least one titanium salt; b1) optionally, at least one carboxylic acid according to formula (I) below: ##STR00028## wherein: A is chosen from a monovalent group when n is 0 or a polyvalent group when n is greater than or equal to 1; or a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic and aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 50 carbon atoms which is optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom and/or optionally substituted; and n is an integer ranging from 0 to 10; and c) optionally, at least one anionic thickening polymer derived from the polymerization of at least one monomer bearing an organic monoacid; wherein the dyeing composition has a pH of less than 7; and applying to the keratin fibers an alkaline composition comprising: d) at least one basifying agent; and e) optionally, at least one chemical oxidizing agent chosen from hydrogen peroxide or at least one hydrogen peroxide-generating system; wherein the alkaline composition has a pH greater than 7.

50. A cosmetic composition for dyeing keratin fibers, comprising: a) at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes and direct dyes, of synthetic or natural origin; b) at least one titanium salt; c) optionally, at least one carboxylic acid according to formula (I) below: ##STR00029## wherein: A is chosen from a monovalent group when n is 0 or a polyvalent group when n is greater than or equal to 1; or a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic and aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 50 carbon atoms which is optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom and/or optionally substituted; and n is an integer ranging from 0 to 10; and d) at least one anionic thickening polymer derived from the polymerization of at least one monomer bearing an organic monoacid function.

Description

EXAMPLES OF DYEING

Example 1

[0387] The following compositions are prepared from the following ingredients in the following proportions, indicated in grams per 100 grams of composition:

Dyeing Composition:

[0388]

TABLE-US-00001 Composition 1 2 Logwood extract comprising 76% 4 g 4 g of haematoxylin: a) Dihydroxybis(ammonium lactato) 12.1 g 12.1 g titanium(IV) at 50% by weight: b) Ammonium acryloyldimethyl- 2 g — taurate/steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer (Aristoflex HMS from Clariant) c) Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6 — 1.5 g (Sepimax Zen from SEPPIC) c) Ethanol 15 g 15 g Lactic acid 10.1 g 10.1 g Water qs 100 g qs 100 g pH agent (sulfuric acid) qs pH = 2.3 ± 0.3 qs pH = 2.3 ± 0.3

Developing Composition:

[0389]

TABLE-US-00002 Composition B Amount Aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution (50%): d) 1.7 g Sodium bicarbonate: e) 5 g L-Arginine: e) 7 g Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate sold under the name 5 g Structure Zea by Akzo Nobel Water qs 100 g pH agent (sodium hydroxide) pH 10 ± 0.3

[0390] Locks of permanent-waved Caucasian hair containing 90% white hairs are successively treated with: [0391] composition 1 or 2, which is left to stand on the locks for 45 minutes at 40° C. and then rinsed out, [0392] composition B, which is then left to stand on the locks for 15 minutes at 40° C.

[0393] After these leave-on times, the locks are washed with Elvive multivitamin shampoo, rinsed and then dried under a hood.

Dyeing Results

[0394] It is found that very strongly coloured black locks are obtained, which is corroborated by the colorimetric measurements below. In addition, it is seen that the colouring is visually homogeneous and persistent with respect to successive shampooing.

[0395] The colour of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3600D colorimeter. In this L*a*b* system, the three parameters denote, respectively, the colour intensity (L*), the green/red colour axis (a*) and the blue/yellow colour axis (b*).

Colour Build-Up:

[0396] The variation in colouring between the locks of natural or permanent-waved hair comprising 90% white hairs or of Chinese hair containing 100% white hairs before and after treatment or dyeing are defined by (ΔE*) according to the following equation:

ΔE*=√{square root over ((L*−L.sub.o*).sup.2+(a*−a.sub.o*).sup.2+(b*−b.sub.o*).sup.2)}

[0397] In this equation, L*, a* and b* represent the values measured on locks of hair after dyeing and L.sub.0*, a.sub.0* and b.sub.0* represent the values measured on locks of undyed virgin hair. The higher the ΔE* value, the better the colour build-up.

[0398] The results L, a, b of colour build-up are collated in the table below:

TABLE-US-00003 DE* Hair Colour L* a* b* build-up Reference Natural permanent-waved — 60.72 1.27 14.65 — Caucasian, 90% white hairs After colouring with Black 19.54 0.81 0.27 43.63 composition 1 and then B After colouring with Black 19.12 0.87 0.31 44 composition 2 and then B

Example 2

[0399] Dye composition 3 below is prepared according to the same protocol as in Example 1:

TABLE-US-00004 Composition 3 Logwood extract comprising 76% of 4 g haematoxylin: a) Dihydroxybis(ammonium lactato) titanium(IV) at 10.3 g 50% by weight: b) Crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer 1 g (Carbopol 980 from Noveon) Ethanol 10 g Benzyl alcohol 5 g Glycolic acid 15 g Water qs 100 g pH agent pH 2 ± 0.2

Developing Composition:

[0400]

TABLE-US-00005 Composition B Amount Aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution (50%): d) 1.7 g Sodium bicarbonate: e) 5 g L-Arginine: e) 7 g Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate sold under the name 5 g Structure Zea by Akzo Nobel Water qs 100 g pH agent (sodium hydroxide) pH 10.3 ± 0.2

Locks of the Following Hair:

[0401] natural and permanent-waved Caucasian hair containing 90% white hairs, and [0402] Chinese hair containing 100% white hairs,
are successively treated with: [0403] composition 3, which is left to stand on the locks for 45 minutes at 40° C. and then rinsed out, [0404] composition B, which is then left to stand on the locks for 15 minutes at 40° C.

[0405] After these leave-on times, the locks are washed with Elvive multivitamin shampoo, rinsed and then dried under a hood.

[0406] The locks treated with the mixture of compositions 3 and B are a very strong and intense black.

[0407] The colorimetric parameters are measured according to the protocol indicated for Example 1 above, and the following results are obtained:

TABLE-US-00006 DE* Hair Colour L* a* b* build-up Natural Caucasian, 90% white Black 21.44 0.92 0.14 51.65 hairs Natural permanent-waved Black 21.19 0.53 1.14 48.32 Caucasian, 90% white hairs Natural Chinese, 100% white Black 23.5 0.88 −0.11 62.62 hairs