PERFUME COMPOSITION
20170333302 · 2017-11-23
Inventors
- Christian Quellet (Bienne, CH)
- Sandrine LE TIRILLY (Paris, FR)
- Addi Fadel (Paris, FR)
- Aurelle FERRY (Attainville, FR)
- Isballe ABRAM (Asnieres sur Seine, FR)
Cpc classification
A61K2800/30
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/8147
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/8152
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/898
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
A61Q13/00
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/898
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
Perfume composition provided in the form of a plurality of dispersed perfume-containing droplets, suspended in an aqueous dispersing medium, said perfume droplets being mono-dispersed and having a diameter of 200 micrometres to 4000 micrometres, wherein said droplets comprise more than 60 wt %, of perfume ingredients, and wherein 25 wt or less of said perfume ingredients are linear or branched alkyl alcohols and/or alkenyl alcohols; 10 wt % or less of the perfume ingredients are aldehydes; and 10 wt % or less of the perfume ingredients have a ClogP less than 2.1.
Claims
1. A perfume composition, comprising more than 60 of perfume ingredients, and wherein 25 wt % or less of said perfume ingredients are linear or branched alkyl alcohols and/or alkenyl alcohols; 10 wt % or less of the perfume ingredients are aldehydes; and 10 wt % or less of the perfume ingredients have a ClogP less than 2.1.
2. The perfume composition according to claim 1 in the form of a plurality of dispersed perfume-containing droplets, suspended in an aqueous dispersing medium, said perfume droplets being mono-dispersed and having a diameter of 200 micrometres to 4000 micrometres, wherein said droplets comprise more than 60 wt of perfume ingredients, and wherein 25 wt % or less of said perfume ingredients are linear or branched alkyl alcohols and/or alkenyl alcohols; 10 wt % or less, of the perfume ingredients are aldehydes; and 10 wt % or less of the perfume ingredients have a ClogP less than 2.1.
3. The perfume composition according to claim 1 which is free of or is substantially free of alcoholic or polar solvents.
4. The perfume composition according to claim 1 which is free of or is substantially free of surfactants.
5. The perfume composition according to claim 2 wherein said perfume-containing droplets are coated with a layer of coacervate.
6. The perfume composition according to claim 5, wherein the coacervate layer is the product of an interaction between a first coacervate precursor polymer and a second coacervate precursor polymer, wherein said first coacervate precursor polymer is cationic, or capable of being ionised to form cations, and said second coacervate precursor polymer is anionic, or is capable of being ionised to form anions.
7. The perfume composition according to claim 6 wherein the first coacervate precursor polymer is a silicone polymer modified with a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.
8. The perfume composition according to claim 7, wherein the silicone polymer is amodimethicone.
9. The perfume composition according to claim 6, wherein the second coacervate precursor polymer is a crosslinked polymer or is a crosslinked copolymer, said polymer or copolymer comprising at least one unit derived from the polymerization of a monomer selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, an alkyl acrylate comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, and salts thereof.
10. The perfume composition according to claim 9, wherein the second coacervate precursor polymer is a carbomer and/or is a crosslinked acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate copolymer.
11. The perfume composition according to claim 5, wherein the thickness of the coacervate coating is less than 1000 nm.
12. The perfume composition according to any of the claim 2, wherein the aqueous dispersing medium comprises at least one cross-linked polymer and/or at least one cross-linked copolymer, comprising at least one unit derived from the polymerization of a monomer selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or salts thereof, and/or alkyl acrylate or methacrylate, the alkyl chain of said alkyl acrylate or methacrylate comprising 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or salts thereof.
13. The perfume composition according to claim 2, wherein the aqueous dispersing medium is a gel.
14. The perfume composition according to claim 2, wherein the aqueous dispersing medium comprises a buffer having a pKa in the range of 4.0 to 9.0.
15. The perfume composition according to claim 2, wherein the aqueous dispersing medium contains a base.
16. A method of preparing a perfume composition as defined in claim 1, wherein the method comprises the step of: forming a plurality of dispersed perfume-containing droplets, suspended in an aqueous dispersing medium, said perfume-containing droplets being mono-dispersed and having a diameter of 200 to 4000 micrometres, wherein said droplets comprise more than 60 wt %, perfume ingredients, and wherein 25 wt % or less of said ingredients are linear or branched alkyl alcohols and/or alkenyl alcohols; 10 wt % or less of the perfume ingredients are aldehydes; and 10 wt % or less of the perfume ingredients have a clogP of less than 2.1.
17. A method of preparing a perfume composition as defined in claim 2, the method comprising the steps of: i) passing a mixture of the said perfume composition of and a first coacervate precursor polymer through a first conduit; and ii) forming perfume-containing droplets of said perfume composition at the outlet of said first conduit, which outlet open into a second fluid comprising an aqueous continuous phase and a second coacervate precursor polymer that can interact with said first coacervate precursor polymer to form a coacervate which coats the droplets.
18. The perfume composition according to claim 2 which is free of or is substantially free of alcoholic or polar solvents.
19. The perfume composition according to claim 2 which is free of or is substantially free of surfactants.
Description
EXAMPLES
[0131]
TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Raw materials Name INCI Name Supplier Carbomer 340 FD Carbomer Evonik Carbopol ® 981 Carbomer Lubrizol Carbopol ® Aqua SF2 Acrylates crosspolymer-4 Lubrizol KF8004 Amodimethicone Shin-Etsu NaOH Sodium Hydroxyde Panreac Microcare ® PE Phenoxyethanol Thor Microcare ® Emollient PTG Pentylene Glycol Thor Edeta ® BD Disodium EDTA BASF Hepes Hydroxyethylpiperazine Hopax Ethane Sulfonic Acid Hydro (HEPES) Perfume composition Perfume Givaudan Dub Inin Isononyl Isononanoate Stearinerie Dubois Deionized water Aqua —
[0132] A series of perfume compositions, numbered 1 to 8 (below) are prepared according to the following procedure.
[0133] The external phase is prepared by dissolving the preservative agents Microcare PE and Edeta BD in the water for 15 minutes at 300 rpm mixing rate, using a dissolver-type propeller. Then the carbomer, the cross-polymer and the buffer system sodium hydroxide/HEPES are incorporated into the mixture and allowed to hydrate for one hour and finally dissolved rapidly, but without incorporating air bubbles, for two hours.
[0134] The internal phase is prepared by mixing the perfume composition and amodimeticone.
[0135] Isononyl isononaoate oil is added as intermediate phase stream.
[0136] The internal phase stream and the intermediate phase stream are incorporated in the external phase stream by using the micro-fluidic/milli-fluidic set up as described in US 2014/0045949.
[0137] The stream flow rates are given in Table 2
TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Stream flow rates (the diluent of the external phase is deionized water q.s.p) Fluid Composition Rate (g/min) wt % Inner fluid 99.5% Perfume 3.97 9.48 0.5% Amodimethicone Middle Fluid 100% DubInin 0.4 0.96 Outer Fluid 0.25% Carbomer 30 71.65 1% Microcare ® PE 2.5% Microcare ® PTG 0.01% Edeta ® Crosspolymer 13.39% Acrylates crosspolymer-4 5.6 13.37 0.019% NaOH Base 4.81% NaOH 1.9 4.54 19.77% Hepes
[0138] The final composition of the system is given in Table 3.
TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 System composition Concentration Raw material INCI name in system Deionized water Aqua 83.72 Perfume composition Perfume 8.91 Oil Isononyl isononaoate 1.05 Cationic coacervation Amodimethicone 0.050 precursor 1 Anionic coacervation Carbomer 0.180 precursor 2 Carbopol ® Aqua SF2 Acrylates crosspolymer-4 1.800 Microcare ® PE Phenoxyethanol 0.900 Microcare ® Emollient Pentylene Glycol 2.250 PTG Hepes Hydroxyethylpiperazine 0.900 Ethane Sulfonic Acid Hydro (HEPES) Edeta ® BD Disodium EDTA 0.010 NaOH Sodium Hydroxyde 0.230 Total 100
[0139] The level of perfume composition in the perfume-containing droplet is 89 wt % and the overall perfume level in the system is 10 wt %.
[0140] The quality of the samples was assessed visually. The quality assessment criteria were: process feasibility, absence of drops coalescence, low drop coloration, absence of external gel phase whitening. The following nomenclature was used: “+”=good; “+/+”=acceptable and “−”=poor. The results are reported in Table 4.
TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 Results Perfume composition # 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Process feasibility +/− + − + +/− + + + Drop coloration − +/− + + + + + External phase − − + + + + + whitening Droplet coalescence − + + + + + + Total wt % terpene 0.0 10.0 28.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 4.0 13.0 alcohols Total wt % ingredients 20.0 10.0 40.0 0.0 10.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 having ClogP <2.1 Total wt % aldehydes 80.0 5.0 0.0 0.0 5.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 Overall quality − +/− − + +/− + + + assessment
[0141] The results of Table 4 clearly demonstrate the interplay of the critical perfumery ingredients in determining the quality of the system.