HAIR DYEING PROCESS USING AT LEAST ONE DYE, A TITANIUM SALT AND AN INSOLUBLE SILICATE
20170333324 · 2017-11-23
Inventors
Cpc classification
A61K8/498
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K2800/4324
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/58
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
Abstract
The present invention relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, in which said fibres are treated using one or more cosmetic compositions comprising a) one or more dye(s), b) one or more titanium salts and optionally b1) at least one carboxylic acid, and c) one or more insoluble silicates and d) optionally one or more chemical oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide or one or more hydrogen peroxide-generating systems.
Claims
1.-22. (canceled)
23. A method for dyeing keratin fibers, comprising applying to the fibers a composition comprising: a) at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes or direct dyes, of synthetic or natural origin; b) at least one titanium salt; b1) optionally, at least one carboxylic acid according to formula (I) below, or salts thereof: ##STR00019## wherein: A is chosen from a monovalent group when n is zero or a polyvalent group when n is greater than or equal to 1; or a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, and aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 50 carbon atoms which is optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom and/or optionally substituted; and n is an integer ranging from 0 to 10; and c) at least one insoluble silicate.
24. The method according to claim 23, wherein the at least one dye is an ortho-diphenol comprising an aromatic ring, wherein the aromatic ring is chosen from benzene, naphthalene, tetrahydronaphthalene, indane, indene, anthracene, phenanthrene, isoindole, indoline, isoindoline, benzofuran, dihydrobenzofuran, chroman, isochroman, chromene, isochromene, quinoline, tetrahydroquinoline, or isoquinoline, wherein the aromatic ring comprises at least two hydroxyl groups carried by two contiguous adjacent atoms of the aromatic ring.
25. The method according to claim 23, wherein the at least one dye is an ortho-diphenol according to formula (II) below, oligomers, tautomers, optical isomers, geometrical isomers, salts, solvates, or hydrates thereof: ##STR00020## wherein: R.sup.1 to R.sup.4, which may be identical or different, are chosen from: i) hydrogen, ii) halogen atoms, iii) hydroxyl groups, iv) carboxyl groups, v) (C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkyl carboxylate or (C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkoxycarbonyl groups, vi) optionally substituted amino groups, vii) optionally substituted linear or branched (C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkyl groups, viii) optionally substituted linear or branched (C.sub.2-C.sub.20)alkenyl groups, ix) optionally substituted cycloalkyl groups, x) (C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkoxy groups, xi) (C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkoxy(C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkyl groups, xii) (C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkoxyaryl groups, xiii) aryl groups which may optionally be substituted, xiv) aryl groups, xv) substituted aryl groups, xvi) heterocyclic groups which are saturated or unsaturated, optionally bearing a cationic or anionic charge and which are optionally substituted and/or optionally fused with an aromatic ring, the aromatic ring optionally substituted, or xvii) radical groups containing at least one silicon atom; or, optionally: two of the substituents borne by two adjacent carbon atoms R.sup.1-R.sup.2, R.sup.2-R.sup.3 or R.sup.3-R.sup.4 optionally form, together with the carbon atoms bearing them, a saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic ring optionally containing at least one heteroatom and optionally fused with at least one saturated or unsaturated ring optionally containing at least one heteroatom; R.sup.1 to R.sup.4 together form from one to four rings; or R.sup.2 and R.sup.3 form a pyrrolyl or pyrrolidinyl radical fused to the benzene ring bearing the two hydroxyls.
26. The method according to claim 23, wherein the at least one dye is an ortho-diphenol chosen from: flavanols; anthocyanidins; anthocyanins or anthocyans; ortho-hydroxybenzoates; flavones; hydroxystilbenes; 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine or derivatives thereof; 2,3-dihydroxyphenylalanine or derivatives thereof; 4,5-dihydroxyphenylalanine or derivatives thereof; dihydroxycinnamates; ortho-polyhydroxycoumarins; ortho-polyhydroxyisocoumarins; ortho-polyhydroxycoumarones; ortho-polyhydroxyisocoumarones; ortho-polyhydroxychalcones; ortho-polyhydroxychromones; quinones; hydroxyxanthones; 1,2-dihydroxybenzene or derivatives thereof; 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene or derivatives thereof; 1,2,3-trihydroxybenzene or derivatives thereof; 2,4,5-trihydroxytoluene or derivatives thereof; proanthocyanidins; chromans or chromenes; proanthocyanins; tannic acid; ellagic acid; or mixtures thereof.
27. The method according to claim 23, wherein the at least one dye is an ortho-diphenol chosen from extracts of animals, bacteria, fungi, algae, plants, or fruit.
28. The method according to claim 23, wherein the composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid chosen from compounds according to formula (I) wherein A is chosen from monovalent (C.sub.1-C.sub.6)alkyl groups or polyvalent (C.sub.1-C.sub.6)alkylene groups optionally substituted with at least one hydroxyl group, and n is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.
29. The method according to claim 23, wherein the composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
30. The method according to claim 23, wherein the at least one titanium salt is chosen from organic or mineral titanium salts.
31. The method according to claim 30, wherein the organic titanium salts are derived from the reaction of at least one organic acid with titanium, wherein the at least one organic acid is chosen from organic acids comprising: a) at least one optionally unsaturated, linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.20 hydrocarbon-based chain, or a (hetero)cycloalkyl or (hetero)aryl group; and b) at least one acid chemical function chosen in particular from carboxyl COOH, sulfuric SO.sub.3H, SO.sub.2H, or phosphoric PO.sub.3H.sub.2, PO.sub.4H.sub.2.
32. The method according to claim 31, wherein the composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid represented by formula (I), and wherein the at last one carboxylic acid is different from the at least one organic acid that the organic titanium salt is derived from.
33. The method according to claim 30, wherein the organic titanium salts are chosen from compounds according to formula (I-A) below: ##STR00021## wherein: A is chosen from a monovalent group when n is zero or a polyvalent group when n is greater than or equal to 1; a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, and aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 50 carbon atoms which is optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom and/or optionally substituted; n, n′, and n″, which may be identical or different, are integers chosen from 1, 2, 3, or 4, wherein n′+n″=6; M.sub.1 and M.sub.2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from a cationic counterion; and TiYn″ is chosen from Ti(OH).sub.n″, Ti(O).sub.n″/2, or Ti(OH).sub.m1(O).sub.m2 with m.sub.1+m.sub.2=n′.
34. The method according to claim 30, wherein the organic titanium salts are chosen from dihydroxybis(lactato)titanium(IV) salts according to the formula below: ##STR00022##
35. The method according to claim 23, wherein the at least one insoluble silicate comprises at least one metal cation chosen from Al.sup.3+, B.sup.3+, Fe.sup.3+, Ga.sup.3+, Be.sup.2+, Zn.sup.2+, Mg.sup.2+, Co.sup.3+, Ni.sup.3+, Na.sup.+, Li.sup.+, Ca.sup.2+, or Cu.sup.2+.
36. The method according to claim 23, wherein the at least one insoluble silicate is chosen from clays of the smectite, vermiculite, stevensite, chlorite, palygorskite, or sepiolite family.
37. The method according to claim 23, wherein the at least one insoluble silicate is chosen from clays of the smectite family.
38. The method according to claim 23, wherein the at least one insoluble silicate is present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 30%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
39. The method according to claim 23, further comprising applying at least one chemical oxidizing agent to the hair, said chemical oxidizing agent chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, or at least one hydrogen peroxide generating system.
40. The method according to claim 23, further comprising applying at least one basifying agent to the hair, said basifying agent chosen from i) (bi)carbonates; ii) aqueous ammonia; iii) alkanolamines; iv) oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines; v) mineral or organic hydroxides; vi) alkali metal silicates; vii) amino acids; or viii) the compounds according to formula (XI) below: ##STR00023## wherein: W is chosen from a divalent (C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkylene radical optionally substituted with at least one hydroxyl group, or at least one (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl radical optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom, or —N(R.sub.e)— group; and R.sub.a, R.sub.b, R.sub.c, R.sub.d, and R.sub.e, which are identical or different, are chosen from a hydrogen atom, (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl radicals, hydroxy(C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl radicals, or mixtures thereof.
41. The method according to claim 23, wherein the composition has a pH of less than 7.
42. The method according to claim 23, wherein the composition comprises: a) at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes or synthetic dyes, of synthetic or natural origin; b) at least one titanium salt; c) at least one insoluble silicate; and at least one solvent; wherein the pH of the composition is less than 7.
43. The method according to claim 23, comprising: applying to the keratin fibers a dyeing composition comprising a) at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes or direct dyes, of synthetic or natural origin; b) at least one titanium salt; b1) optionally, at least one carboxylic acid according to formula (I) below, or salts thereof: ##STR00024## wherein: A is chosen from a monovalent group when n is zero or a polyvalent group when n is greater than or equal to 1; or a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, and aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 50 carbon atoms which is optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom and/or optionally substituted; and n is an integer ranging from 0 to 10; and c) at least one insoluble silicate; wherein the dyeing composition has a pH of less than 7; and applying to the keratin fibers an alkaline composition comprising: d) optionally, at least one chemical oxidizing agent chosen from hydrogen peroxide or at least one hydrogen peroxide generating system; and e) at least one basifying agent; wherein the alkaline composition has a pH greater than 7.
44. A cosmetic composition for dyeing keratin fibers, comprising: a) at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes or direct dyes, of synthetic or natural origin; b) at least one titanium salt, wherein the titanium salt has an oxidation state of 2, 3 or 4; b1) optionally, at least one or carboxylic acid according to formula (I) below, or salts thereof: ##STR00025## wherein: A is chosen from a monovalent group when n is zero or a polyvalent group when n is greater than or equal to 1; a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, and aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 50 carbon atoms which is optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom and/or optionally substituted; or a monovalent (C.sub.1-C.sub.6)alkyl group or a polyvalent (C.sub.1-C.sub.6)alkylene group optionally substituted with at least one hydroxyl group; and n is an integer ranging from 0 to; and c) at least one insoluble silicate.
Description
EXAMPLES OF DYEING
Example 1
[0349] The following compositions are prepared from the following ingredients in the following proportions, indicated in grams per 100 grams of composition:
Dyeing Composition:
[0350]
TABLE-US-00001 Composition 1 2 Logwood extract comprising 76% of 4 g 4 g haematoxylin: a) Dihydroxybis(ammonium lactato) 10.3 g 10.3 g titanium (IV) at 50% by weight: b) Montmorillonite (hydrated 8 g — aluminium silicate) (Gel white H from Byk Additive & Instruments) Purified smectite (magnesium — 8 g aluminium silicate) (Veegum R from Vanderbilt) Benzoic acid 5 g 5 g Ethanol 15 g 15 g Lactic acid 10.1 g 10.1 g Water qs 100 g qs 100 g pH agent (sulfuric acid) qs pH = 2.3 ± qs pH = 2.3 ± 0.3 0.3
Developing Composition:
[0351]
TABLE-US-00002 Composition B Amount Aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution (50%): d) 1.7 g Sodium bicarbonate: e) 5 g L-Arginine: e) 7 g Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate sold under the name 5 g Structure Zea by Akzo Nobel Water qs 100 g pH agent (sodium hydroxide) pH 10 ± 0.3
Locks of the Following Types of Hair:
[0352] natural and permanent-waved Caucasian hair containing 90% white hairs, and [0353] natural Chinese hair containing 100% white hairs, are successively treated with: [0354] composition 1 or 2, which is left to stand on the locks for 45 minutes at 40° C. and then rinsed out, [0355] composition B, which is then left to stand on the locks for 15 minutes at 40° C.
[0356] After these leave-on times, the locks are washed with Elvive multivitamin shampoo, rinsed and then dried under a hood.
Dyeing Results
[0357] It is found that very strongly coloured black locks are obtained, which is corroborated by the colorimetric measurements below. In addition, it is seen that the colouring is visually homogeneous and persistent with respect to successive shampooing.
[0358] The colour of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L* a* b* system using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3600D colorimeter. In this L* a* b* system, the three parameters denote, respectively, the colour intensity (L*), the green/red colour axis (a*) and the blue/yellow colour axis (b*).
Colour Build-Up:
[0359] The variation in colouring between the locks of natural or permanent-waved hair comprising 90% white hairs or of Chinese hair containing 100% white hairs before and after treatment or dyeing are defined by (ΔE*) according to the following equation:
ΔE*=√{square root over ((L*−L.sub.0*).sup.2+(a*−a.sub.0*).sup.2+(b*−b.sub.0*).sup.2)}
[0360] In this equation, L*, a* and b* represent the values measured on locks of hair after dyeing and L.sub.0*, a.sub.0* and b.sub.0* represent the values measured on locks of undyed virgin hair. The higher the ΔE* value, the better the colour build-up.
[0361] The results L, a, b of colour build-up are collated in the table below:
TABLE-US-00003 DE* Hair Colour L* a* b* build-up Untreated reference hair Natural Caucasian 90% white — 66.88 0.96 16.34 — Permanent-waved natural — 65.99 0.57 15.03 — Caucasian 90% white Natural Chinese 100% white — 77.69 1.85 23.38 — Composition 1 followed by B Natural Caucasian 90% white Black 20.44 0.38 −0.76 49.5 Permanent-waved natural Black 19.8 0.31 0.43 48.44 Caucasian 90% white Natural Chinese 100% white Black 22.8 0.11 −1.53 60.3 Composition 2 followed by B Natural Caucasian 90% white Black 19.75 0.31 −0.19 49.95 Permanent-waved natural Black 20.37 0.32 0.65 47.83 Caucasian 90% white Natural Chinese 100% white Black 21.29 1.06 0.6 60.83
Example 2
[0362] Dye composition 3 below is prepared according to the same protocol as in Example 1:
TABLE-US-00004 Composition 3 Logwood extract comprising 76% of 4 g haematoxylin: a) Dihydroxybis(ammonium lactato) titanium (IV) at 10.3 g 50% by weight: b) Montmorillonite (hydrated aluminium silicate) 1 g (Gel White H from Byk Additive & Instruments) Sclerotium gum (Amigel Granules from Alban 1 g Muller) Ethanol 10 g Benzyl alcohol 5 g Glycolic acid 15 g Water qs 100 g pH agent pH 2 ± 0.2
[0363] Locks of natural and permanent-waved Caucasian hair containing 90% white hairs are treated with composition 3, which is left on for 45 minutes at 40° C. and then rinsed out, and then with composition B according to Example 1, which is then left on for 15 minutes at 40° C.
[0364] After these leave-on times, the locks are washed with Elvive multivitamin shampoo, rinsed and then dried under a hood.
[0365] The locks treated with the compositions 3 and B are a very strong and intense black.