HAIR DYEING PROCESS USING AT LEAST ONE DIRECT AND/OR NATURAL DYE, A TITANIUM SALT, A CELLULOSE-BASED POLYSACCHARIDE AND OPTIONALLY A PARTICULAR ORGANIC SOLVENT
20170333312 · 2017-11-23
Inventors
- Boris Lalleman (Paris, FR)
- Alain Lagrange (Coupvray, FR)
- Françoise ALBOUY (Rueil Malmaison, FR)
- Frédéric SIMONET (Clichy, FR)
Cpc classification
A61K8/498
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K2800/4324
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/44
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61Q5/065
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/732
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/368
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61Q5/06
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/58
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
A61K8/44
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
The present invention relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, in which said fibres are treated using one or more cosmetic compositions comprising a) one or more dyes chosen from synthetic direct dyes and dyes of natural origin, b) one or more titanium salts and b1) optionally one or more particular carboxylic acids, c) one or more cellulose-based polysaccharides, d) optionally one or more organic compounds that are liquid at 25° C., with a Hansen solubility parameter value δH<16 (MPa).sup.1/2 at 25° C., e) optionally one or more chemical oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide or one or more hydrogen peroxide-generating systems.
Claims
1.-20. (canceled)
21. A method for dyeing keratin fibers, comprising applying to the fibers a composition comprising: a) at least one dye chosen from synthetic direct dyes and/or dyes of natural origin; b) at least one titanium salt; b1) optionally, at least one carboxylic acid according to formula (I) below, or salts thereof: ##STR00021## wherein: A is chosen from a monovalent group when n is 0 or a polyvalent group when n is greater than or equal to 1; or a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic and aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 50 carbon atoms which is optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom and/or optionally substituted; and n is an integer ranging from 0 to 10; c) at least one cellulose-based polysaccharide; d) optionally, at least one organic compound that is liquid at 25° C. with a Hansen solubility parameter value δH of less than 16 (MPa).sup.1/2 at 25° C.; and e) optionally, at least one chemical oxidizing agent chosen from hydrogen peroxide or at least one hydrogen peroxide-generating system.
22. The method according to claim 21, wherein the at least one dye is an ortho-diphenol comprising an aromatic ring, wherein the aromatic ring is chosen from benzene, naphthalene, tetrahydronaphthalene, indane, indene, anthracene, phenanthrene, isoindole, indoline, isoindoline, benzofuran, dihydrobenzofuran, chroman, isochroman, chromene, isochromene, quinoline, tetrahydroquinoline, or isoquinoline, wherein the aromatic ring comprises at least two hydroxyl groups borne by two contiguous adjacent atoms of the aromatic ring.
23. The method according to claim 21, wherein the at least one dye is an ortho-diphenol according to formula (II) below, oligomers, tautomers, optical isomers, geometrical isomers thereof, salts, solvates, or hydrates thereof: ##STR00022## wherein: R.sup.1 to R.sup.4, which may be identical or different, are chosen from: i) hydrogen, ii) halogen atoms, iii) hydroxyl groups, iv) carboxyl groups, v) (C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkyl carboxylate or (C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkoxycarbonyl groups, vi) optionally substituted amino groups, vii) optionally substituted linear or branched (C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkyl groups, viii) optionally substituted linear or branched (C.sub.2-C.sub.20)alkenyl groups, ix) optionally substituted cycloalkyl groups, x) (C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkoxy groups, xi) (C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkoxy(C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkyl groups, xii) (C.sub.1-C.sub.20)alkoxyaryl groups, xiii) aryl groups which may optionally be substituted, xiv) aryl groups, xv) substituted aryl groups, xvi) heterocyclic groups which are saturated or unsaturated, optionally bearing a cationic or anionic charge and which are optionally substituted and/or optionally fused with an aromatic ring, the aromatic ring optionally substituted, or xvii) radical groups containing at least one silicon atom; or, optionally: two of the substituents borne by two adjacent carbon atoms R.sup.1-R.sup.2, R.sup.2-R.sup.3 or R.sup.3-R.sup.4 optionally form, together with the carbon atoms bearing them, a saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic ring optionally containing at least one heteroatom and optionally fused with at least one saturated or unsaturated ring optionally containing at least one heteroatom; R.sup.1 to R.sup.4 together form from one to four rings; or R.sup.2 and R.sup.3 form a pyrrolyl or pyrrolidinyl radical fused to the benzene ring bearing the two hydroxyls.
24. The method according to claim 21, wherein the at least one dye is an ortho-diphenol chosen from: flavanols; anthocyanidins; anthocyanins or anthocyans; ortho-hydroxybenzoates; flavones; hydroxystilbenes; 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine or derivatives thereof; 2,3-dihydroxyphenylalanine or derivatives thereof; 4,5-dihydroxyphenylalanine or derivatives thereof; dihydroxycinnamates; ortho-polyhydroxycoumarins; ortho-polyhydroxyisocoumarins; ortho-polyhydroxycoumarones; ortho-polyhydroxyisocoumarones; ortho-polyhydroxychalcones; ortho-polyhydroxychromones; quinones; hydroxyxanthones; 1,2-dihydroxybenzene or derivatives thereof; 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene or derivatives thereof; 1,2,3-trihydroxybenzene or derivatives thereof; 2,4,5-trihydroxytoluene or derivatives thereof; proanthocyanidins; chromans or chromenes; proanthocyanins; tannic acid; ellagic acid; or mixtures thereof.
25. The method according to claim 21, wherein the at least one dye is an ortho-diphenol chosen from extracts of animals, bacteria, fungi, algae, plants, or fruit.
26. The method according to claim 21, wherein the composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid is chosen from compounds according to formula (I) wherein A is chosen from monovalent (C.sub.1-C.sub.6)alkyl groups or polyvalent (C.sub.1-C.sub.6)alkylene groups optionally substituted with at least one hydroxyl group, and n is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.
27. The method according to claim 21, wherein the composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
28. The method according to claim 21, wherein the at least one titanium salt is chosen from organic or mineral titanium salts.
29. The method according to claim 28, wherein the organic titanium salts are derived from the reaction of at least one organic acid with titanium, wherein the at least one organic acid is chosen from organic acids comprising: a) at least one optionally unsaturated, linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.20 hydrocarbon-based chain, or a (hetero)cycloalkyl or (hetero)aryl group; and b) at least one acid chemical function chosen from carboxyl COOH, sulfuric SO.sub.3H, SO.sub.2H, or phosphoric PO.sub.3H.sub.2, PO.sub.4H.sub.2.
30. The method according to claim 29, wherein the composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid represented by formula (I), and wherein the at least one carboxylic acid is different from the at least one organic acid that the organic titanium salt is derived from.
31. The method according to claim 28, wherein the organic titanium salts are chosen from compounds according to formula (I-A) below: ##STR00023## wherein: A is chosen from a monovalent group when n is 0 or a polyvalent group when n is greater than or equal to 1; or a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic and aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 50 carbon atoms which is optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom and/or optionally substituted; n, n′, and n″, which may be identical or different, are integers chosen from 1, 2, 3, or 4, wherein n′+n″=6; M.sub.1 and M.sub.2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from a cationic counterion; and TiY.sub.n″, is chosen from Ti(OH).sub.n″, Ti(O).sub.n″/2, or Ti(OH).sub.m1(O).sub.m2 with m.sub.1+m.sub.2=n″.
32. The method according to claim 28, wherein the organic titanium salts are dihydroxybis(lactato)titanium(IV) salts according to the formula below: ##STR00024##
33. The method according to claim 21, wherein the at least one cellulose-based polysaccharide is chosen from associative or non-associative anionic, cationic, amphoteric, or nonionic polymers.
34. The method according to claim 21, wherein the composition comprises at least one organic compound chosen from organic solvents, such organic solvents chosen from: propylene glycol derivatives; aromatic alcohols; alkylene carbonates; lactones according to formula (D1) below: ##STR00025## wherein: n is equal to 1, 2 or 3; and R′ is chosen from hydrogen atom; a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.8 alkyl radical; or a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.4 hydroxyalkyl radical; alcohols; ethers; or mixtures thereof.
35. The method according to claim 21, wherein the composition comprises at least one organic compoundchosen from alcohols, aromatic alcohols, benzyl alcohol, ethers, propylene glycol derivatives, or mixtures thereof.
36. The method according to claim 21, wherein the composition comprises at least one chemical oxidizing agent chosen from hydrogen peroxide or at least one hydrogen peroxide-generating system.
37. The method according to claim 21, further comprising applying at least one basifying agent to the hair, said basifying agent chosen from: i) (bi)carbonates; ii) aqueous ammonia; iii) alkanolamines; iv) oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines; v) mineral or organic hydroxides; vi) alkali metal silicates; vii) amino acids; or viii) the compounds according to formula (XIII) below: ##STR00026## wherein: W is a divalent (C.sub.1-C.sub.8)alkylene radical optionally substituted with at least one hydroxyl group or at least one (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl radical and/or optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatomor with a group —N(R.sub.e)—; and R.sub.a, R.sub.b, R.sub.c, R.sub.d, and R.sub.e, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen, a (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl or hydroxy(C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl radical, or mixtures thereof.
38. The method according to claim 21, wherein the composition has a pH of less than 7.
39. The method according to claim 21, comprising: applying to the keratin fibers a dyeing composition comprising a) at least one dye chosen from synthetic direct dyes and/or dyes of natural origin; b) at least one titanium salt; b1) optionally, at least one carboxylic acid according to formula (I) below, or salts thereof: ##STR00027## wherein: A is chosen from a monovalent group when n is 0 or a polyvalent group when n is greater than or equal to 1; or a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic and aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 50 carbon atoms which is optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom and/or optionally substituted; and n is an integer ranging from 0 to 10; c) at least one cellulose-based polysaccharide; and d) optionally, at least one organic compound that is liquid at 25° C. with a Hansen solubility parameter value δH of less than 16 (MPa).sup.1/2 at 25° C.; wherein the dyeing composition has a pH of less than 7; and e) optionally, at least one chemical oxidizing agent chosen from hydrogen peroxide or at least one hydrogen peroxide-generating system; and f) at least one basifying agent; wherein the alkaline composition has a pH greater than 7.
40. A cosmetic composition for dyeing keratin fibers, comprising: a) at least one dye chosen from synthetic direct dyes and/or dyes of natural origin; b) at least one titanium salt; b1) optionally, at least one carboxylic acid according to formula (I) below, or salts thereof: ##STR00028## wherein: A is chosen from a monovalent group when n is 0 or a polyvalent group when n is greater than or equal to 1; or a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic and aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 50 carbon atoms which is optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom and/or optionally substituted; and n is an integer ranging from 0 to 10; c) at least one cellulose-based polysaccharide; d) optionally, at least one organic compound that is liquid at 25° C. with a Hansen solubility parameter value δH of less than 16 (MPa).sup.1/2 at 25° C.; and e) optionally, at least one chemical oxidizing agent chosen from hydrogen peroxide or at least one hydrogen peroxide-generating system.
41. A multi-compartment device comprising from 2 to 5 compartments containing from 2 to 5 compositions, the device comprising: a) at least one dye chosen from synthetic direct dyes and/or dyes of natural origin; b) at least one titanium salt; b1) optionally, at least one carboxylic acid according to formula (I) below, or salts thereof: ##STR00029## wherein: A is chosen from a monovalent group when n is 0 or a polyvalent group when n is greater than or equal to 1; or a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic and aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 50 carbon atoms which is optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatom and/or optionally substituted; and n is an integer ranging from 0 to 10; c) optionally, at least one cellulose-based polysaccharide; d) optionally, at least one organic compound that is liquid at 25° C. with a Hansen solubility parameter value δH of less than 16 (MPa).sup.1/2 at 25° C.; and e) optionally, at least one chemical oxidizing agent chosen from hydrogen peroxide or at least one hydrogen peroxide-generating system; wherein at least one compartment further comprises water.
Description
EXAMPLES OF DYEING
Example 1
[0388] The following compositions are prepared from the following ingredients in the following proportions, indicated in grams per 100 grams of composition:
Dyeing Composition:
[0389]
TABLE-US-00002 Com- Ingredients position 1 Composition 2 Composition 3 Haematoxylin, a) 4 g 4 g 4 g sold by Sigma CAS = 517-28-2 Dihydroxybis(ammonium 12.1 g 12.1 g 12.1 g lactato) titanium(IV) at 50% by weight: b) 19495-50-8 Lactic acid b1) 10.1 g 10.1 g 10.1 g Hydroxyethylcellulose 1.6 g — — (HEC) c) sold under the name Natrosol 250 Mr by Ashland HEC c) sold under — 1.4 g 1.2 g the name Natrosol 250 HHR CS by Ashland Ethanol 15 g 15 g 15 g Xanthan gum sold — — 0.4 g under the name Rhodicare XC by Rhodia Water qs 100 g qs 100 g qs 100 g pH agent qs pH = 2 ± 0.2
Developing Composition:
[0390]
TABLE-US-00003 Composition B Amount Aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution (50%): e) 2.4 g L-Arginine: f) 7 g Sodium bicarbonate: f) 5 g Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate sold under the 5 g name Structure Zea by Akzo Nobel Water qs 100 g pH agent pH 10 ± 0.3
The dye compositions 1 to 3 and then composition B are applied with a brush to permanent-waved Caucasian hair containing 90% white hairs.
[0391] Compositions 1 to 3 are then left on for a time of 45 minutes at 40° C. and composition B is left on for a time of 15 minutes at 40° C. Rinsing is performed before applying composition B.
[0392] After these leave-on times, the locks are washed with Elvive Multivitamin shampoo, rinsed and then dried under a hood.
Dyeing Results
[0393] It is found that very strongly coloured black locks are obtained, which is corroborated by the colorimetric measurements below. In addition, it is seen that the colouring is visually homogeneous and persistent with respect to successive shampooing.
[0394] The colour of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3600D colorimeter. In this L*a*b* system, the three parameters denote, respectively, the colour intensity (L*), the green/red colour axis (a*) and the blue/yellow colour axis (b*).
Colour Build-Up:
[0395] The variation in colouring between the locks of permanent-waved Caucasian hair containing 90% white hairs, before and after treatment or dyeing, is defined by (ΔE*) according to the following equation:
ΔE*=√{square root over ((L*−L.sub.o*).sup.2+(a*−a.sub.o*).sup.2+(b*−b.sub.o*).sup.2)}
In this equation, L*, a* and b* represent the values measured on locks of hair after dyeing and L.sub.0*, a.sub.0* and b.sub.0* represent the values measured on locks of undyed virgin hair. The higher the ΔE* value, the better the colour build-up.
[0396] The results L, a, b of colour build-up are collated in the table below:
TABLE-US-00004 ΔE* Types of hair and treatment Colour L* a* b* build-up Composition 1 then B Natural permanent-waved Black 22.16 1.97 2.39 42.9 Caucasian, 90% white hairs Composition 2 then B Natural permanent-waved Black 21.99 2.32 2.51 43.04 Caucasian, 90% white hairs Composition 3 then B Natural permanent-waved Black 21.16 1.88 1.86 44.01 Caucasian, 90% white hairs
[0397] After the keratin fibres have been treated with compositions 1 to 3, the locks obtained are a very strong and intense black.
Example 2
[0398] The following dye compositions are prepared according to the same protocol as in Example 1:
Dyeing Composition:
[0399]
TABLE-US-00005 Ingredients Composition 4 Composition 5 Disperse Red 13, a) 3180-81-2 0.5 g HC Violet 2: 2-N- — 0.5 g hydroxypropylamino-5-N,N-bis(b- hydroxyethyl)aminonitrobenzene a) Glycolic acid b1) 15 g 15 g Dihydroxybis(ammonium lactato) 10.3 g 10.3 g titanium(IV) at 50% by weight: b) HEC sold under the name Natrosol 1.2 g — 250 HHR CS by Ashland, c) HEC sold under the name Natrosol — 1 g 250 Mr by Ashland, c) Ethanol 15 g 15 g Benzyl alcohol d) 5 g 5 g Water qs 100 g qs 100 g pH agent qs pH = 2 ± 0.2
[0400] Very strongly coloured red locks (composition 4) and violet locks (composition 5) are obtained.