FOAMING MAKEUP REMOVER
20230165762 · 2023-06-01
Inventors
- Xiaodong HE (Auzeville Tolosane, FR)
- Pauline SAUREL (Vallegue, FR)
- Julie SAINTECATHERINE (L'Union, FR)
- Lise MASSON (Toulouse, FR)
Cpc classification
A61K8/604
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
Abstract
A cosmetic composition for makeup removal is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The composition includes a lipophilic phase having a content by weight between 35% and 60% with respect to the total weight of the composition. The composition has a non-ionic hydrophilic surfactant assembly with at least one alkylpolyglucoside. The composition further includes at least one gelling agent having a content by weight between 0.3% and 0.8% with respect to the total weight of the composition. The gelling agent is at least one clay and/or at least one polysaccharide gum.
Claims
1. A cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, which comprises: a lipophilic phase in a content by weight comprised between 35% and 60% with respect to a total weight of the composition, a non-ionic hydrophilic surfactant assembly comprising at least one alkylpolyglucoside, at least one gelling agent in a content by weight comprised between 0.3% and 0.8% with respect to the total weight of the composition, the gelling agent comprising: at least one clay and/or at least one polysaccharide gum.
2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the gelling agent is a clay.
3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant assembly has a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) comprised between 12 and 18.
4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the content by weight of the surfactant assembly is between 5% and 10% with respect to the total weight of the composition.
5. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the oil/water ratio is between 0.5 and 1.5.
6. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the content by weight of the lipophilic phase is between 45% and 55% with respect to the total weight of the composition.
7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition is a makeup remover.
8. A form-dispensing device comprising a tank which comprises the cosmetic composition according to claim 1.
9. A method of using the cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising removing makeup with the cosmetic composition.
10. A method for cleansing a keratin material, comprising applying the cosmetic composition according to claim 1 onto the keratin material.
Description
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
[0068]
EXAMPLES
Material and Methods
[0069] Water is placed in a 250 ml beaker, as well as gelling agent, then a gel is formed by stirring the composition for 10 minutes at 600 rotations per minute by means of a TURBOTEST EVO RAYNERI device provided with a grooved stator, this being placed centrally in the beaker.
[0070] Then, surfactants are added in the gel obtained then the assembly is homogenised for 5 minutes at 600 rotations per minute using a TURBOTEST EVO RAYNERI device provided with a grooved stator, this being placed centrally in the beaker.
[0071] Then, the emulsion is made by pouring, little by little, the fatty phase previously homogenised in the hydrophilic phase stirring at 3300 rotations per minute for 5 minutes still using a TURBOTEST EVO RAYNERI device provided with a grooved stator, this being placed centrally in the beaker.
[0072] Finally, the agent is added into the emulsion obtained then the assembly is homogenised for 5 minutes at 3000 rotations per minute using a TURBOTEST EVO RAYNERI device provided with a grooved stator, this being placed centrally in the beaker.
[0073] Then, the viscosity of the emulsion obtained is measured at t=60 seconds at ambient temperature using a RM 100 PLUS LAMY RHEOLOGY viscosimeter with the following parameters: [0074] Measuring system MS-R3; speed of 45 rotations per minute for emulsions of which the viscosity is comprised between 72 cP and 21600000 cP [0075] Measuring system MS-DIN 11; speed of 193.65 rotations per minutes for emulsions of which the viscosity is comprised between 3 cP and 1000000 cP Finally, the emulsion obtained is decanted into a foam pump without propulsive gas-type packaging and it is observed if foam is obtained.
[0076] If foam is obtained with the composition tested by this method, the foaming properties of the tested composition are considered as acceptable and utilisable.
Results
Foaming Properties
[0077]
TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Commercial foaming gel/cream of which EXAMPLES the gelling agent is of 1 2 3 4 the polyacrylate type GELLING AGENTS: BENTONE EW CE 0.5% 0.5% acrylamide/sodium LAPONITE XLG 0.5% acryloyldimethyltaurate CARPBOPOL 0.9%.sup. copolymer ULTREZ 30 acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer SURFACTANTS: CREMOPHOR CO 40 4% 1% ORAMIX CG110 4% 4% 4% ORAMIX NS10 4% 4% 5% OILS: CETIOL C5C 12.77% 12.77% 12.77% NIKKOL IPIS 5.32% 5.32% 5.32% CRODAMOL PTIS 15.96% 15.96% 15.96% LIPONATE NPGC-2 15.96% 15.96% 15.96% TEGOSOFT CT 50% AGENT: PHYTOFOAM ™ 2% 2% 2% Water QS Obtaining of foam yes yes yes no no
[0078] The commercial products used in these three examples have the following INCI names:
[0079] KELTROL CG-F: Xanthan gum
[0080] BENTONE EW CE: Hectorite
[0081] LAPONITE XLG: Lithium magnesium sodium silicate
[0082] CREMOPHOR CO 40: PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil
[0083] ORAMIX CG110: Caprylyl/capryl glucoside
[0084] ORAMIX NS10: Decyl glucoside
[0085] CETIOL C5C: Coco-caprylate/caprate
[0086] NIKKOL IPIS: Isopropyl isostearate
[0087] CRODAMOL PTIS: Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
[0088] LIPONATE NPGC-2: Neopentylglycol dicaprylate/dicaprate
[0089] PHYTOFOAM: Aqua (and) Acacia Concinna Fruit Extract (and) Balanites
[0090] Aegyptiaca Fruit Extract (and) Gypsophila Paniculata Root Extract
[0091] The compositions of examples 1 to 3 have satisfactory foaming properties, contrary to the composition of example 4 and to the commercial makeup remover foaming gel/cream with a polyacrylate-type gelling agent.
Effect of the Viscosity on the Production of Foam
[0092] The link between viscosity and foam production is studied from different emulsions containing different percentages of one same gelling agent.
[0093] The tested compositions have, as a formulation: [0094] 8.0% of a surfactant assembly of which the average HLB is comprised between 12 and 16 and comprising at least one glucoside-type surfactant [0095] variable concentrations of a clay- or xanthan-type gelling agent [0096] 50% of an oily mixture comprising cleansing or hydrating oils [0097] water (QS)
[0098] The percentages of the gelling agents used are: 0%; 0.2%; 0.5%; 0.8% and 1%.
[0099] The results are summarised in the following table:
TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 % of gelling agent in the Viscosity Production tested composition (cP) of foam 0 41.67 yes 0.2 105.5 yes 0.5 232.4 yes 0.8 297.0 yes 1 423.9 no
[0100] The results obtained show that the tests of which the viscosity is greater than around 400 cP do not allow to obtain a foam.
Cleansing Properties
[0101] The cleansing properties of the composition of example 2 are compared to those of a commercial cleanser having a content by weight of oily phase less than 20% (
[0102] The composition of example 2 has shown better cleansing properties both on an anhydrous-based lipstick, on an aqueous-based waterproof mascara and on a coloured lip ink.