PROCESS OF PREPARING A DYED FABRIC INCLUDING A BACTERIAL BIOPOLYMER AND HAVING UNIQUE APPEARANCE
20170314193 · 2017-11-02
Inventors
- Jitka ERYILMAZ (Inegol - Bursa, TR)
- Onur YUKSELEN (Inegol - Bursa, TR)
- Ozgur COBANOGLU (Inegol - Bursa, TR)
Cpc classification
D06N3/0015
TEXTILES; PAPER
D06M23/06
TEXTILES; PAPER
D03D13/004
TEXTILES; PAPER
D06N3/12
TEXTILES; PAPER
D06P1/46
TEXTILES; PAPER
D06P5/12
TEXTILES; PAPER
International classification
D06M16/00
TEXTILES; PAPER
D06M23/06
TEXTILES; PAPER
D06N3/00
TEXTILES; PAPER
Abstract
The present invention provides a process for the production of a fabric having a unique appearance and the fabric so obtained. Also provided is the clothing articles, i.e. garments, including the fabric. More particularly, the present invention relates to a process for producing a woven fabric having a unique, e.g. “used” (i.e. worn-out) or “multi-shaded” appearance and the process includes a step of providing a woven fabric with a layer of bacterial biopolymer, dyeing at least part of the fabric together with the biopolymer layer, and then removing at least part of the bacterial biopolymer layer from the fabric.
Claims
1. A process for producing a treated fabric, said process comprising: providing yarns including at least a plurality of warp yarns and at least a plurality of weft yarns; weaving said at least a plurality of warp yarns with said at least a plurality of weft yarns to provide a woven fabric having a front side and a back side; providing at least a layer of at least one bacterial biopolymer on said yarns or on at least part of at least one of said sides of said woven fabric to provide a composite fabric; dyeing at least part of said composite fabric, whereby at least part of said yarns are dyed together with said biopolymer layer; and removing at least part of said layer of at least one bacterial biopolymer from said composite fabric to obtain a treated fabric.
2. The process according to claim 1, wherein thickness of said at least a layer of at least one bacterial biopolymer is non-uniform throughout said layer of at least one bacterial biopolymer.
3. The process according to claim 1, wherein at least part of said at least a layer of at least one bacterial biopolymer is a discontinuous layer.
4. The process according to claim 1, wherein said bacterial biopolymer is selected from the group consisting of bacterial cellulose, a further sugar-based biopolymer, bacterial collagen, a further amino acid-based biopolymer, and a mixture thereof.
5. The process according to claim 1, wherein said providing at least a layer of at least one bacterial biopolymer, is carried out after said weaving by producing said layer of at least one bacterial biopolymer on the woven fabric or before said weaving by producing said bacterial biopolymer layer on said yarns before weaving said woven fabric.
6. The process according to claim 1, wherein said woven fabric is coupled to a separately produced bacterial biopolymer layer.
7. The process according to claim 5, wherein said providing at least a layer of at least one bacterial biopolymer comprises contacting at least part of said woven fabric or at least part of said yarns with a culture of bacterial biopolymer-producing microorganisms to produce said bacterial biopolymer, and culturing said bacterial biopolymer-producing microorganisms.
8. The process according to claim 7, wherein said culture of bacterial biopolymer-producing microorganisms is sprayed on at least part of the front side of said woven fabric.
9. The process according to claim 8, wherein said culture of bacterial biopolymer-producing microorganisms is sprayed on said at least part of said woven fabric through a mesh wire.
10. The process according to claim 7, wherein said contacting at least part of said woven fabric or at least part of said yarns with a culture of microorganisms comprises dipping said at least part of said woven fabric or at least part of said yarns, into said culture of bacterial biopolymer-producing microorganisms.
11. The process according to claim 7, wherein said bacterial biopolymer-producing microorganisms comprise at least one of bacterial biopolymer-producing bacteria, bacterial biopolymer-producing algae, and a mixture thereof, wherein said bacterial biopolymer-producing bacteria are selected from the group consisting of Gluconacetobacter, Aerobacter, Acetobacter, Achromobacter, Agrobacterium, Azotobacter, Salmonella, Alcaligenes, Pseudomonas, Rhizobium, Sarcina and Streptoccoccus, Bacillus genus, and mixtures thereof, and wherein said bacterial biopolymer-producing algae are selected from the group consisting of Phaeophyta, Rhodophyta, Chrysophyta, and mixture thereof.
12. The process according to claim 1, wherein said woven fabric comprises at least one of said plurality of warp yarns and said plurality of weft yarns forming an additional layer of said woven fabric including loop portions on at least one of said sides of said woven fabric and wherein at least part of said additional layer is disposed within said bacterial biopolymer layer.
13. The process according to claim 1, wherein at least one of said warp yarns and said weft yarns is selected from the group consisting of natural yarns, synthetic yarns and mixed yarns, wherein said natural yarns comprise natural fibers selected from the group consisting of cotton, wool, flax, kenaf, ramie, hemp, and mixtures thereof, wherein said synthetic yarns comprise synthetic fibers selected the group consisting of from polyester, rayon, nylon, lycra and mixtures thereof, and wherein said mixed yarns comprise both natural fibers and synthetic fibers.
14. The process according to claim 1, wherein said woven fabric is a denim fabric.
15. The process according to claim 1, wherein said dyeing comprises one of print-dyeing, indigo dyeing, and dipping said composite fabric into an indigo dye bath.
16. The process according to claim 1, wherein said removing comprises at least one of laundry washing and abrading at least part of said at least one bacterial biopolymer layer from said composite fabric.
17. A treated fabric formed according to the process of claim 1.
18. The treated fabric according to claim 17, wherein said treated fabric includes part of said layer of at least one bacterial biopolymer.
19. A garment comprising the treated fabric of claim 17.
20. A garment comprising the treated fabric of claim 18.
21. The garment according to claim 20, wherein the front side of said treated fabric is disposed externally and forms a visible side of the garment when the garment is worn, and wherein the back side of said treated fabric is disposed internally and forms a non-visible side of the garment when the garment is worn
Description
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0125] Further aspects and advantages of the present invention will be discussed more in detail with reference to the enclosed drawings, given by way of non-limiting example, wherein:
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DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0134] According to an aspect of the invention, the structure of the treated fabric is substantially the same of the non-treated woven fabric (i.e. the woven fabric before steps c, d and e of the process identified above). In other words, the process of the invention does not substantially modify the structure of the woven fabric which is subjected to the process of the invention.
[0135] Therefore, in this embodiment the “woven fabric” 1 (i.e. the fabric before steps c, d and e of the process of the invention) and the “treated fabric” 100 (i.e., the fabric after step e. of the process of the invention) shall be interpreted to be the same fabric before and after the process of the invention. In other words, a treated fabric is the woven fabric after having been treated according to the invention.
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[0138] It has to be noted that the weaving pattern illustrated in the present figures have to be intended as merely representative, and not limiting of the scope of the invention; in fact any kind of weaving pattern have to be considered as included in the scope of the claims. As above mentioned, the weaving pattern may contribute to the final appearance.
[0139] The woven fabric 1 represented in
[0140]
[0141] The back side 6 of the woven fabric 1 is also indicated in
[0142] In the embodiment of
[0143] For example, the woven fabric 1 can be contacted with a culture of bacterial biopolymer-producing microorganisms, which are cultured directly on the woven fabric 1. By culturing the microorganisms directly on the woven fabric 1, the growing (i.e. the production) of a bacterial biopolymer layer 4 on the woven fabric 1 can be obtained.
[0144] In embodiments of the invention, the bacterial biopolymer layer 4 is a non-uniform layer, i.e. it has a thickness T which is variable throughout the extension of the bacterial biopolymer layer 4.
[0145] In embodiments of the invention, the bacterial biopolymer layer 4 is a discontinuous layer, i.e. is an interrupted layer, thus providing areas of the woven fabric 1 which are not provided (i.e. not covered) with the bacterial biopolymer layer 4.
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[0147]
[0148]
[0149]
[0150] The treated fabric 100, in the embodiment represented in
[0151] Accordingly, a treated fabric 100 as shown in
[0152] It has to be noted that
[0153] This is particularly true in the embodiments of the invention, where the bacterial biopolymer layer 4 has a thickness T that is non-uniform, i.e. that is not the same throughout the extension of the bacterial biopolymer layer 4; in other words, where thickness T assumes different values in different regions of the bacterial biopolymer layer 4.
[0154] In fact, if the composite fabric 10 presents a bacterial biopolymer layer 4 having variable thickness T, the dye uptake of the composite fabric 10 is variable in relationship with the variable thickness T of the bacterial biopolymer layer 4.
[0155] In particular, it has been observed that, the higher is the thickness T, the higher is the dye uptake of the bacterial biopolymer layer 4. In other words, when a composite fabric 10 presents a bacterial biopolymer layer 4 having variable thickness T, different amounts of dye reach the surface (i.e., for example, the front side 5) of the woven fabric 1, in relationship with the variation of the thickness T along the extension of the bacterial biopolymer layer 4.
[0156] For example, if the thickness T of the bacterial biopolymer layer is high, only a little amount (or none) dye reaches the surface (i.e., for example, the front side 5) of the woven fabric 1, thus providing a treated fabric 100 with second regions 8 that are slightly colored and/or third regions 9 that are substantially not colored, i.e. not dyed.
[0157] On the contrary, for example, if the thickness T of the bacterial biopolymer layer is low, a greater amount of dye reaches the surface (i.e., for example, the front side 5) of the woven fabric 1, thus providing a treated fabric 100 with first regions 7, that are intensely colored.
[0158] According to various advantageous embodiments of the invention, growing the bacterial biopolymer layer 4 directly on the woven fabric 1, a bacterial biopolymer layer 4 having a variable thickness T can be obtained.
[0159] For example, a treated fabric 100, according to
[0160] Moreover, where the thickness T of the bacterial biopolymer layer 4 is T1, substantially all the dye reaches the surface (i.e. the front side 5) of the woven fabric 1, thus providing a treated fabric 100 having first regions 7, that are intensely colored.
[0161] Accordingly, a treated fabric 100 as shown in
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[0165]
[0166] Therefore, a treated fabric 100 as shown in
[0167] For example, a treated fabric 100 according to
[0168] For example, a bacterial biopolymer layer 4 having variable thickness T can be obtained by growing (i.e. producing) said biopolymer directly on the surface of the fabric, namely, on the front side 5 of the woven fabric 1.
[0169] In this case, according to
[0170] As already mentioned,
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[0172]
[0173]
[0174] Therefore, a treated fabric 100 as shown in
[0175] For example, a treated fabric 100 according to
[0176] Additionally, where the thickness is T2, only part of the dye reaches the surface (i.e. the front side 5) of the woven fabric 1, thus providing a treated fabric 100 having second regions 8 that are slightly colored.
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[0178]
[0179]
[0180] The embodiment of
[0181] The presence of the dyed residual bacterial biopolymer regions 4a on the treated fabric 100, provide a further “visual effect” which combines the peculiar color shade of the dyed bacterial biopolymer layer 4 with all the other shades of color on the treated fabric 100. Additionally, the presence of the residual bacterial biopolymer regions 4a provides the treated fabric 100 with a hand feel that is different from the hand feel of a fabric wherein the bacterial biopolymer layer 4 has been completely removed. With the varying of the amount of residual bacterial biopolymer layer 4 on the treated fabric 100 different hand touch effects can be obtained.
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[0183] Spraying the culture of bacterial biopolymer-producing microorganisms 200 through the mesh wire 300, results in a non-homogeneous distribution of the biopolymer-producing microorganisms on the woven fabric 1. For example, a patterned distribution of the biopolymer-producing microorganisms can be obtained, thus providing the woven fabric 1, with regions that are contacted by the culture of biopolymer-producing microorganisms 200 and other regions that are not contacted by the sprayed culture of bacterial biopolymer-producing microorganisms 200. The mesh wire 300 may be made of any material; application of the bacterial culture may be made by screen-printing.
[0184] In other words, the mesh wire 300, that is placed on the front side 5 of the woven fabric 1, “hides” some regions of the woven fabric 1, i.e., the regions of the woven fabric 1 which lie under the mesh wire structure 301. The regions of the woven fabric 1 that are “hidden” by the mesh wire structure 301 are substantially not contacted by the culture of bacterial biopolymer-producing microorganisms 200 which is sprayed from the spraying means 201.
[0185] On the contrary, the sprayed culture of bacterial biopolymer-producing microorganisms 200 can reach the woven fabric 1 by passing through the mesh wire windows 302 of the mesh wire 300, which do not hide the woven fabric 1, and leave the portion of the woven fabric 1 in correspondence of the mesh wire windows 302 free to be contacted by the culture of bacterial biopolymer-producing microorganisms 200, sprayed by the spraying means 201.
[0186] As above mentioned, by culturing the bacterial biopolymer-producing microorganisms directly on the woven fabric 1, it is possible to grow (i.e. to produce) a bacterial biopolymer layer 4 directly on the woven fabric 1.
[0187] In exemplary embodiments, when the distribution of the biopolymer-producing microorganisms on the woven fabric 1 is a non-homogeneous distribution, a discontinuous (i.e. interrupted), bacterial biopolymer layer 4 can be obtained.
[0188] For example, as above mentioned, by spraying the culture of bacterial biopolymer-producing microorganisms 200 through the mesh wire 300 it is possible to obtain a woven fabric 1 having regions that are contacted by the culture of biopolymer-producing microorganisms 200 and other regions that are not contacted by the sprayed culture of bacterial biopolymer-producing microorganisms 200. In this case, a discontinuous (i.e. interrupted) bacterial biopolymer layer 4 can be obtained, thus providing a composite fabric 10 having a discontinuous (i.e. interrupted) bacterial biopolymer layer 4; in other words, a woven fabric 1 with regions that are covered by the bacterial biopolymer layer 4, and other regions which are not covered by the bacterial biopolymer layer 4 can be obtained.
[0189] Specifically, the regions of the woven fabric 1 contacted by the culture of biopolymer-producing microorganisms 200 are those regions of the woven fabric 1 which are in correspondence of the mesh wire windows 302 when the culture of bacterial biopolymer-producing microorganisms 200 is sprayed onto the woven fabric 1; such regions, after the culturing of the microorganism on the woven fabric 1, result to be regions of the composite fabric 10 that are provided with the bacterial biopolymer layer 4.
[0190] On the contrary, where the woven fabric 1 is hidden by the mesh wire structure 301 when the culture of bacterial biopolymer-producing microorganisms 200 is sprayed onto the woven fabric 1, the culture of biopolymer-producing microorganisms 200 does not substantially contact the woven fabric 1 and, therefore, the bacterial biopolymer layer 4 is not produced, thus providing regions of the composite fabric 10 that are not provided with the bacterial biopolymer layer 4. The mesh wire 300 may be removed before dyeing once the bacterial cellulose is grown on the fabric, which is about 10 to 23 hours, e.g. 14-18 hours.
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[0192] The woven fabric 1 is thus coupled to a discontinuous bacterial biopolymer layer 4, providing a composite fabric 10. The exemplary embodiment of the composite fabric 10 of
[0193] The back side 6 of the woven fabric 1 is also indicated in
[0194] In the embodiment of
[0195] In embodiments of the invention, the bacterial biopolymer layer 4 is a discontinuous non-uniform layer, i.e. it is an interrupted layer, and has a thickness T which is variable throughout the extension of the bacterial biopolymer layer 4.
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[0197] The back side 6 of the woven fabric 1 is also indicated in
[0198] According to the embodiment of
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[0201] The treated fabric 100 of
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[0203] Third regions 9 are obtained, for example, when the dye that is applied to the composite fabric 10 is completely absorbed by the bacterial biopolymer layer 4 and, therefore, does not reach the woven fabric 1, which remains undyed.
[0204] Second regions 8 are obtained, for example, when part of the dye that is applied to the composite fabric 10 reaches the woven fabric 1, thus providing the treated fabric 100 with second regions 8 which are colored with a lighter shade of dye than the first regions 7, when the bacterial biopolymer layer 4 is removed. First regions 7 are obtained, for example, when the majority of the dye that is applied to the composite fabric 10 reaches the woven fabric 1.
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[0206] As above discussed, this is particularly true in the embodiments of the invention, where the bacterial biopolymer layer 4 has a thickness T that is not the same throughout the extension of the bacterial biopolymer layer 4, i.e. thickness T can assume different values (e.g. T1, T2, T3) in different regions of the bacterial biopolymer layer 4, i.e. the bacterial biopolymer layer 4 is non-uniform.
[0207] The number of the shades of color is further increased in those embodiments wherein the bacterial biopolymer layer 4 is discontinuous. In fact, the dye uptake of the composite fabric 10 is substantially determined by the thickness T of the bacterial biopolymer layer 4. In particular, it has been observed that, the higher is the thickness T, the higher is the dye uptake. In other words, when a composite fabric 10 presents a bacterial biopolymer layer 4 having variable thickness T, different amounts of dye reach the surface (i.e., for example, the front side 5) of the woven fabric 1.
[0208] For example, if the thickness T of the bacterial biopolymer layer 4 is high, a little, or none, dye reaches the surface (i.e., for example, the front side 5) of the woven fabric 1, thus providing the treated fabric 100 with second regions 8 that are slightly colored and/or third regions 9 that are substantially not colored, i.e. not dyed.
[0209] On the contrary, for example, if the thickness T of the bacterial biopolymer layer 4 is low, or the bacterial biopolymer layer 4 is absent (e.g. when the bacterial biopolymer layer 4 is discontinuous) a great amount of dye reaches the surface (i.e., for example, the front side 5) of the woven fabric 1, thus providing the treated fabric 100 with first regions 7, that are intensely colored.
EXAMPLES
[0210] The following examples illustrate a process for the production of a treated fabric according to various embodiments of the disclosure.
[0211] The following examples are to be interpreted as merely illustrative and they do not limit the scope of the invention.
Example 1
[0212] 25 ml of a culture of Gluconacetobacter hansenii having a concentration of 2×10.sup.4 cells/ml, is sprayed culture on the front side of a sample woven fabric according to the invention. The culture used is a culture of Gluconacetobacter hansenii, in in Hestrin-Schramm (HS) medium containing 2% (w/v) glucose, 0.5% (w/v) peptone, 0.5% (w/v) yeast extract, 0.27% (w/v) Na2HPO4 and 1.15 g/L citric acid.
[0213] Illustrative examples of woven fabrics according to the invention, which were used according to the present “Examples” are the following:
[0214] 1. “Rigid”—12 oz 100% cotton:
[0215] Warp yarns are Ne 7/1-10/1
[0216] Weft yarns are Ne 8/1-10/1
[0217] Warp density of the fabric is 25-28 threads/cm
[0218] Weft density of the fabric is 17-20 picks/cm
[0219] The weight of the woven fabric is 640-670 g/m
[0220] The front side of the woven fabric has a surface density of 407-423 g/m.sup.2
[0221] Materials that can be used for the woven fabric, in particular for warp yarns, are cotton, cotton and other staple fibers blend, or staple fibers apart from cotton (CottoniTencel, Cotton/Modal, Cotton/PES, Cotton/Bamboo, 100%PES, 100% Tencel, Modal or Tencel/Modal blends).
[0222] 2. “Comfort”—12 oz cotton/elastane (18%-25% elasticity):
[0223] Warp yarns are Ne 7/1-10/1
[0224] Weft yarns are Ne 10/1-12/1
[0225] Warp density of the fabric is 27-31 threads/cm
[0226] Weft density of the fabric is 17-21 picks/cm
[0227] The weight of the woven fabric is 500-550 g/m
[0228] The front side of the woven fabric has a surface density of 407-423 g/m.sup.2
[0229] Materials that can be used for the woven fabric, in particular for warp yarns, are cotton, cotton and other staple fibers blend, or staple fibers apart from cotton (Cotton/Tencel, Cotton/Modal, Cotton/PES, Cotton/Bamboo, 100% PES, 100% Tencel, Modal or Tencel/Modal blends).
[0230] 3. “Super stretch”—12 oz cotton/elastane (40%-65% elasticity):
[0231] Warp yarns are Ne 9/1-12/1
[0232] Weft yarns are Ne 15/1-18/1
[0233] Warp density of the fabric is 29-32 threads/cm
[0234] Weft density of the fabric is 20-24 picks/cm
[0235] The weight of the woven fabric is 464-490 g/m
[0236] The front side of the woven fabric has a surface density of 407-423 g/m.sup.2
[0237] Materials that can be used for the woven fabric, in particular for warp yarns, are cotton, cotton and other staple fibers blend, or staple fibers apart from cotton (Cotton/Tencel, Cotton/Modal, Cotton/PES, Cotton/Bamboo, 100% PES, 100% Tencel, Modal or Tencel/Modal blends).
Example 2
[0238] After the application (spraying) of the bacterial culture of Example 1 on the woven fabric, the woven fabric is incubated for 16 hours, at temperature 28° C. After 16 hours, at temperature 28° C., a layer of bacterial cellulose having a thickness ranging from 0.5 mm to 1 mm, with an average value of 0.75 mm is obtained on the front side of the woven fabric, i.e. a composite fabric is obtained.
Example 3
[0239] After the bacterial cellulose layer growth is completed, the composite fabric obtained in Example 2 is washed with 0.1 M NaOH at 80° C. temperature to remove the residual bacteria and all the impurities coming from the growth medium including the bacteria, and in NaOCI, for 20 minutes to remove the residual bacteria from the composite fabric.
[0240] After the removal of residual bacteria and all the impurities coming from the growth medium including the bacteria, the composite fabric is print-dyed, with a dye selected from indigo, pigments, reactive and sulphur dyes. The composite fabric may be print-dyed with indigo on its front side, i.e. on the side wherein the bacterial cellulose layer is present.
[0241] Alternatively, the composite fabric may be VAT dyed with conventional indigo dyeing (i.e. on both sides of the fabric).
Example 4
[0242] The dyed composite fabric obtained in Example 3 is finished through one or more finishing techniques.
[0243] For example, the dyed composite obtained in Example 3 may be rinsed with water 20 minutes at 40° C. Additionally or alternatively, the dyed composite fabric obtained in Example 3 may be or stone washed (i.e. washed in the presence of pumice stone) 20 minutes at 40° C., followed by enzyme wash for 10 minutes at 50° C. to remove small hair (pilling) created by the stone wash.
[0244] Additionally or alternatively, the dyed composite obtained in Example 3 may undergo stone bleaching, for 20 minutes at 40° C. Additionally or alternatively, the dyed composite fabric obtained in Example 3 may undergo laser treatments. One or more of the above-mentioned techniques are used to remove the bacterial cellulose layer, thus obtaining a treated fabric according to the invention.
[0245] As used herein, “exemplary” means “as an example” and therefore an “exemplary embodiment” should not be considered to refer to a preferred or superior embodiment, but rather to “an example.” As such, an “exemplary embodiment” is used to mean “as one example, an embodiment of the disclosure.”
[0246] Although the invention has been described in terms of various embodiments, it is not limited thereto. Rather, the appended claims should be construed broadly, to include other variants and embodiments of the invention, which may be made by those skilled in the art without departing from the scope and range of equivalents of the invention.